Wooden shafts. Port Orford Cedar Wood Arrow Shafts: The Ultimate Guide to Wooden Arrows

What are the benefits of Port Orford Cedar wood arrow shafts. How do they compare to other wooden shaft materials. Where can you find high-quality wooden arrow shafts for traditional archery.

The Allure of Port Orford Cedar for Arrow Shafts

Port Orford Cedar has long been prized by traditional archers for crafting arrow shafts. This remarkable wood species offers a unique combination of properties that make it ideal for arrow making. But what exactly sets Port Orford Cedar apart from other woods?

Port Orford Cedar (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana) is native to a small region of southwestern Oregon and northwestern California. Its straight grain, low density, and excellent strength-to-weight ratio have made it a favorite among arrow makers for generations. The wood’s natural oils provide some resistance to moisture and decay, while its workability allows for precise spine matching and straightening.

Key Advantages of Port Orford Cedar Arrow Shafts:

• Consistent spine and weight
• Excellent straightness retention
• Good durability for a softwood
• Pleasant aroma and appearance
• Historically authentic for traditional archery

Are Port Orford Cedar shafts the best choice for every archer? While they offer many benefits, the ideal arrow material depends on your specific needs, shooting style, and preferences. Let’s explore how they compare to other options on the market.

Comparing Wood Arrow Shaft Materials

While Port Orford Cedar is a popular choice, several other wood species are used for arrow shafts. Each has its own set of characteristics that may make it more or less suitable for different archers and applications.

Common Wood Arrow Shaft Materials:

1. Douglas Fir
2. Sitka Spruce
3. Western Red Cedar
4. Ash
5. Birch

How do these woods stack up against Port Orford Cedar? Douglas Fir is often considered slightly more durable, while Sitka Spruce can offer excellent spine consistency. Western Red Cedar is softer and lighter, potentially allowing for larger diameter shafts. Hardwoods like ash and birch provide increased durability but at the cost of added weight.

Is there a clear winner among wood arrow shaft materials? The truth is, each has its own strengths and weaknesses. Your choice may depend on factors such as:

• Bow weight and draw length
• Intended use (target shooting vs. hunting)
• Personal preference for arrow weight and diameter
• Budget considerations
• Availability of different wood species in your area

The Art of Selecting the Perfect Arrow Shaft

Choosing the right arrow shaft is crucial for achieving optimal performance and accuracy. When it comes to wooden shafts, there’s more to consider than just the wood species. What factors should you take into account when selecting arrow shafts?

Key Considerations for Wooden Arrow Shaft Selection:

• Spine (stiffness)
• Weight
• Straightness
• Diameter
• Length
• Grain orientation

Spine is perhaps the most critical factor in arrow selection. It refers to the shaft’s stiffness and its ability to flex and recover during the shot. The correct spine ensures proper arrow flight and accuracy. How is spine measured for wooden shafts?

Wooden arrow spine is typically measured using a deflection test. A 2-pound weight is hung from the center of a 26-inch suspended shaft, and the amount of deflection is measured in inches. Lower deflection numbers indicate a stiffer spine. For example, a shaft with a 50# spine will deflect less than a 35# spine under the same weight.

Why is matching the arrow spine to your bow so important? An arrow that’s too stiff or too weak for your bow will not flex properly during the shot, leading to inconsistent flight and reduced accuracy. Factors that influence spine selection include:

• Bow draw weight
• Draw length
• Arrow length
• Point weight
• Fletching style

Crafting High-Quality Wooden Arrow Shafts

The process of creating wooden arrow shafts is both an art and a science. Skilled craftsmen combine traditional techniques with modern precision to produce arrows that meet the exacting standards of today’s archers. What goes into making a top-quality wooden arrow shaft?

Steps in Crafting Wooden Arrow Shafts:

1. Wood selection and grading
2. Rough cutting and seasoning
3. Spine sorting
4. Straightening
5. Tapering (if desired)
6. Final sanding and finishing

The process begins with carefully selecting and grading the raw wood. Only straight-grained pieces free from knots and defects are chosen. The wood is then rough cut into oversized shaft blanks and allowed to season, ensuring stability and consistent moisture content.

Once seasoned, the shafts are sorted by spine using specialized equipment. This allows for precise matching of spine groups. The shafts then undergo a straightening process, often involving heat and pressure to remove any minor curves or twists.

Some manufacturers offer tapered shafts, which can provide improved flight characteristics and penetration. The shafts are then sanded to a smooth finish and may receive additional treatments such as lacquer or oil to enhance their appearance and weather resistance.

Customizing Your Wooden Arrow Shafts

One of the joys of traditional archery is the ability to customize your equipment to suit your exact preferences. Wooden arrow shafts offer a wealth of opportunities for personalization. How can you make your arrows truly unique?

Options for Customizing Wooden Arrow Shafts:

• Cresting (decorative banding)
• Wood burning or carving
• Custom spine and weight matching
• Specialty finishes (e.g., period-correct stains)
• Footed shafts for increased durability

Cresting involves applying colorful bands to the shaft, often near the nock end. This not only adds a personal touch but can also help with arrow identification and alignment. Wood burning or carving allows for intricate designs or personal marks to be added to the shaft.

Many archers appreciate the ability to order custom-matched sets of arrows. This might involve selecting shafts within a very tight spine and weight tolerance, ensuring the utmost consistency across a set of arrows.

For those seeking increased durability, footed shafts feature a section of hardwood spliced onto the front of the arrow. This reinforces the area behind the point, reducing the likelihood of splitting upon impact.

Caring for Your Wooden Arrow Shafts

Proper care and maintenance are essential for preserving the performance and longevity of wooden arrow shafts. Unlike modern synthetic materials, wood requires some special consideration to keep it in top condition. What steps should you take to care for your wooden arrows?

Tips for Wooden Arrow Shaft Maintenance:

• Store arrows in a cool, dry place
• Use arrow racks or tubes to prevent warping
• Regularly inspect for cracks or splinters
• Clean shafts with a lightly dampened cloth
• Apply occasional light coats of finish or oil
• Rotate arrows in your quiver to distribute wear evenly

Moisture is the enemy of wooden arrows. Excessive humidity can cause shafts to warp or lose spine consistency. Store your arrows in a climate-controlled environment when possible, and consider using silica gel packets in your arrow case to absorb moisture.

Inspect your arrows regularly for signs of damage. Small cracks or splinters can quickly become larger issues if left unaddressed. Sand out minor imperfections and apply a touch-up of finish as needed.

When cleaning wooden shafts, avoid soaking them in water. A lightly dampened cloth is usually sufficient to remove dirt and grime. For stubborn stains, a mild soap solution can be used, but be sure to dry the shaft thoroughly afterward.

The Future of Wooden Arrow Shafts in Modern Archery

In an age of high-tech carbon and aluminum arrows, wooden shafts might seem like a relic of the past. However, there’s a growing resurgence of interest in traditional archery and natural materials. What does the future hold for wooden arrow shafts?

Factors Influencing the Future of Wooden Arrows:

• Increasing interest in traditional and historical archery
• Advancements in wood treatment and stabilization techniques
• Growing appreciation for sustainable and natural materials
• Development of hybrid shafts combining wood with modern materials
• Continued refinement of spine matching and consistency

While wooden shafts may never regain the market dominance they once held, they continue to occupy an important niche in the archery world. Many archers appreciate the natural feel and aesthetic of wood, as well as the connection to archery’s rich history.

Technological advancements are allowing for improved consistency and performance in wooden shafts. Some manufacturers are exploring techniques such as vacuum stabilization to enhance the stability and weather resistance of wood arrows.

The growing interest in sustainable and eco-friendly products may also contribute to a renewed appreciation for wooden arrows. As consumers become more environmentally conscious, natural and biodegradable materials like wood may see increased popularity.

Finding High-Quality Wooden Arrow Shafts

For archers interested in trying or continuing to use wooden shafts, finding a reliable source of high-quality arrows is crucial. Where can you purchase top-notch wooden arrow shafts?

Sources for Wooden Arrow Shafts:

• Specialty archery shops
• Traditional archery suppliers
• Custom arrow makers
• Online marketplaces
• Archery trade shows and events

Specialty archery shops that cater to traditional archers often carry a selection of wooden shafts. These shops may offer the advantage of knowledgeable staff who can help you select the right arrows for your needs.

Several companies specialize in traditional archery supplies, offering a wide range of wooden shaft options. These suppliers often provide detailed specifications and sorting services to ensure you get precisely matched sets of arrows.

For those seeking the ultimate in customization, working with a custom arrow maker can yield excellent results. These craftsmen can create arrows tailored to your exact specifications, often using premium materials and techniques.

Online marketplaces and forums dedicated to traditional archery can be excellent sources for both new and vintage wooden shafts. However, be sure to verify the seller’s reputation and the condition of used arrows before purchasing.

Attending archery trade shows and traditional archery events can provide opportunities to see and handle various wooden shaft options in person. These events often feature both established manufacturers and small-scale craftsmen showcasing their products.

When selecting a supplier for wooden arrow shafts, consider factors such as:

• Reputation for quality and consistency
• Range of wood species and spine options available
• Customization services offered
• Customer support and warranty policies
• Pricing and value for money

Remember that investing in high-quality wooden shafts can significantly impact your shooting experience and results. While they may be more expensive than some modern alternatives, well-crafted wooden arrows can provide years of reliable service with proper care.

Embracing the Tradition of Wooden Arrows

Using wooden arrow shafts connects archers to a rich tradition spanning thousands of years. From ancient hunters to medieval warriors to modern-day traditional archery enthusiasts, wood has been the arrow material of choice for much of human history. What is it about wooden arrows that continues to captivate archers today?

The Appeal of Wooden Arrows:

• Natural beauty and warmth
• Unique character of each shaft
• Connection to archery’s historical roots
• Satisfaction of using traditional materials
• Potential for customization and personalization

Many archers find that shooting wooden arrows provides a more fulfilling and authentic experience. The natural variations in wood grain and the subtle differences between each shaft add an element of uniqueness that’s lacking in mass-produced synthetic arrows.

There’s also a tactile satisfaction to working with wood. From the feel of the shaft in your hand to the sound of the arrow leaving the bow, wooden arrows offer a sensory experience that many find deeply appealing.

For those interested in historical reenactment or traditional archery competitions, wooden shafts are often required or strongly preferred. Using period-correct materials adds an extra layer of authenticity to these pursuits.

The process of selecting, tuning, and maintaining wooden arrows can be a rewarding hobby in itself. Many archers enjoy the craftsmanship involved in creating a perfectly matched set of arrows tailored to their bow and shooting style.

Challenges of Wooden Arrows:

While wooden arrows offer many benefits, it’s important to acknowledge their potential drawbacks:

• Greater susceptibility to environmental factors
• Potential for warping or changes in spine over time
• Less durability compared to modern materials
• Higher cost for premium wood species
• More maintenance required

These challenges are part of what makes shooting wooden arrows a more involved and engaging process for many archers. Overcoming these obstacles and achieving consistent results with wooden shafts can be a source of great satisfaction.

Ultimately, the choice to use wooden arrow shafts is a personal one. Whether you’re drawn to their traditional appeal, natural aesthetics, or the challenge they present, wooden arrows offer a unique and rewarding archery experience.

As you explore the world of wooden arrow shafts, remember that patience and practice are key. Take the time to understand the nuances of different wood species, experiment with various spine and weight combinations, and develop your skills in arrow tuning and maintenance. With dedication, you may find that wooden arrows become not just a piece of equipment, but an integral part of your archery journey.

Forrester Wood Shafts – Home

I will help you carefully select a shaft that meets your needs in both a dynamic spine element (matched to your bow weight/draw length) and an aesthetic sense to compliment the artistry of your bow and the shooting goals of you the archer. Many times through the shaft consultation process I will help you select a shaft that is spined less than the manufacturers of softwoods recommend. This is due to the speed of which hardwoods can recover from “archers paradox”. The options are almost endless when choosing a hardwood shaft for your individual needs. Please feel free to send me an email or call me for any questions.

Spines to match your needs in ranges from 25-140 lbs and weights 270 grains up to 850 gr.

All sizes available up to 34″ long.

“Heavy Hitters” are in Leopardwood, Hard Rock Maple, Jatoba, (Brazilian Cherry) and
Red Balau.

NEW: LIGHT WEIGHT HARDWOODS with interlocking grain that won’t split like spruce,
cedar, or fir after a “Robin Hood” shot.

Light weight hardwood: (See shaftwood options page for full list)
* MAHOGANY…5/16, spines 33-53#, 280-400 grains.
(11/32, spines 54-70#, 420-500 grains).
*Match grade competition shafts: +/- 5 lbs spine and +/- 5
grains per dozen shafts.

RED BALAU…9/32, spines 45-50#, 425-480 grains.

Price: $80/doz. Teak & Puprpleheart
$70/doz. Leopardwood, Hard Rock Maple, Red Balau, Lacewood
$60/doz. Matched Grade Mahogany
Add $15/doz. for larger point footing.
Add: Shipping is $10-15.00 for 12-24 shafts.
(Call for outside continental U.S.)

7 sample shafts for $30
Add: Shipping $10

NEW: NATURAL FOOTINGS are now available on 9/32 and 5/16 for larger field points
and broadheads for an additional $15/doz.

Tapering (custom) is now available for Mahogany and Lacewood for an
additional $15.00

Extended length shafts from 33″ – 36″ shafts available in Mahogany for
an additional $10. 00

I guarantee my work with free exchange if needed. As these are ‘custom’ shafts, I’ll work with you personally to make sure we find the best combination for you.

I’ll need to know your bow type, draw length, point weight, hunting big game or smaller game, target shooting, and distance you are comfortable shooting.

List of bows and matching shafts are recommendations based on testing. Different combinations can be done based on preference. Arrow material is based on availability. Spines and weights listed are approximations depending on section of tree being harvested. Each dozen arrows ordered are cut from the same section of board to ensure the best match possible.

Spines are matched +/- 8 lbs and +/-10 grains.

Match grade competition shafts: +/- 5 lbs spine and +/- 5 grains per dozen shafts.

Order completion and delivery time will be determined at time of actual order.

To learn more about my approach: http://www.forresterwoodshafts.com/news-release. html

A Comparison of Swab Handle Materials

The handles or shafts of swabs and applicators have distinctly different attributes. How do you know which is best for your business or work? Start with this primer. In this article, we compare the different types of swab handle materials so you can make the best choice for your application.

Wood Applicator Shafts

Wood is about as basic as it gets when it comes to swab shafts. Puritan’s wood shafts are sticks milled from Northern White birch. They are economical, sturdy and rigid, and well-suited for applying to or cleaning in basic patient care or industrial applications.

A natural material, wood may introduce dust and can fracture in use. Applicators with wood shafts are not suitable for microbiological collection applications. Standard lengths are 3” and 6”.

Plastic Applicator Shafts

This material comes in many forms and is desirable for its clean, non-porous and non-dusting properties. The common plastic shafts for applicators are hollow polystyrene, and most often white in color. These are more costly than wood, but also more flexible, and will break cleanly if desired. This quality makes the synthetic material suitable for microbiological specimen collection.

Plastic applicator shafts are commonly found in patient care and specimen collection, and also used in industrial cleaning applications. Standard lengths are 3” and 6”, but these can be scored to break at a predictable point.

Polypropylene, also a synthetic plastic material, is durable and resistant to fracture. This shaft is suitable for patient care, specimen collection, and a broad range of industrial applications where greater durability is required.

Wire Applicator Shafts

Applicators with wire shafts are often used in medical settings. Made of aluminum or stainless steel, these fine-diameter flexible shafts are useful in specimen collection where standard swabs are simply too big. They’re also an ideal choice in specialty industrial applications where conductivity is not a concern. 

Paper Applicator Shafts

Paper is a familiar shaft material for lollipops, but can also be found in tipped applicators. Paper is smooth, white, and somewhat flexible. It is available in fine diameter for critical cleaning applications and in longer lengths for medical applications. The range of standard applicators with paper shafts is limited when compared to wood or plastic shaft products.

Custom Swab Handles and Shafts

Looking for something else? When your application requires shaft properties that are beyond basic, contact Puritan’s product specialists to discuss the possibilities. There are many shaft material options in the Puritan line, and more available to create your custom product.

The Art of Making Shafts

The Art of Making Shafts – Wapiti Archery POC

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We harvest all of our own arrow bolts in the Pacific Northwest from properties owned by our families.

We pick the best snags or downed logs that we can find. Most of this wood has either been standing dead or laying on the ground for 50-100 years. All of these bolts are cut to 36″, hand split in half, then into quarters, and then hand packed out to the road and loaded on the truck.

The bolts are then put inside our milling facility to dry. Once dried down to a certain moisture content, they are then run through a Baker resaw/bandsaw where they are cut down into 2″ planks for easy handling.

Then they will be moved into a state of the art dehumidification kiln to be brought down to the right moisture content. We will then move them to a room with big fans and room temperature to set for 2-3 weeks to stabilize.

Once the planks are dried to a certain moisture content, we then take them to a planer. They are run through the planer to be prettied up so that we can see the grain more clearly. Once we have decided the plank has good, straight grain, because here at Wapiti Archery POC, we believe a premium shaft has good, straight grain from end to end.

To find the grain in the plank, we run an awl, which is a long pointed spike, down the grain line on the plank. This tells us how much we have to take off with the jointer to line the grain up. This is so we have grain end to end on our shafts. Straight grain is very important for a good, durable port orford cedar shaft.

Then we take the board to the jointer and joint down to that line, to line up the grain. The grain will be checked several times in the next couple phases to make sure the grain stays straight on the board.

The gang saw is a 3 bladed saw, which is used to cut the planks into smaller 3/8″ wide planks. After running the board through the gang saw one time, the grain is checked on the plank to make sure we did not go off of grain line. If so, it goes back to the jointer to be straighted up. These little planks, once cut, are put into a cart and left for 2-3 days to stabilize.

Once we are done gangsawing all of our wood into smaller planks, it is then taken to the bandsaw where it is turned into squares.

These squares are put into buckets and left for 1-2 days to stabilize and make sure the moisture content is correct before running into shafts.

We are now ready to turn the squares into the world’s finest tapered port orford cedar shafts. This machine was built in the 1940s and is still in production today. This machine is no regular arrow machine, when you put a square 3/8″ stick in the machine, it tapers the last 9″ of the shaft down to 5/16″ on the nock end of shafts that are 11/32″ or 23/64″. The machine also builds a 5/16″ tapered shaft which tapers down to 9/32″ on the nock end and these shafts are used by some of the finest traditional shooters in the world and have won many world and state titles.

The shafts after coming out of the ol’ arrow machine are then checked for grain straightness, splits, and any other possible defects. These shafts are then put into cans and moved to the spining room to sit for at least 48 hours to stabilize. Since these shafts have been slightly compressed, they have to sit awhile for the grain to stabilize.

Once the shafts get to the spining room, they are lightly hand sanded. The ones that do not make premiums are not sanded, they are thrown into a bucket to be redoweled and made into kids arrows. The premium shafts are then spined into 5# increments and checked again for grain straightness, and are hand straightened if needed. Not all wood that is taken from the woods will make heavy shafts, we have to run 100s of shafts to get a couple dozen heavies if we are lucky. The wood today, has not changed from the wood that was used 40 years ago. They just ran a lot of wood to get heavy shafts, and our poor old machine will run 300-400 shafts on a good day.

The shafts, once they have been spined, are then grain weighed, matched up within 10 grains, bundled into dozens, and put into bins. We here at Wapiti Archery POC, hope that you will be patient with us and our small company. We try to build the best poc shafts on the market today and we believe that we do that. So, if you ever have to wait for a certain spine shaft for any length of time, we are sure that when you receive them, they will be the finest shafts you have ever shot and well worth the wait, now that you see what we go through to build them.

Thank you faithful customers for your patience with us and our wood,

Dan, Wapiti Archery POC

The Evolution of the Golf Club

The Evolution of the Golf Club

Posted on January 26, 2018

Since the inception of the game of golf, players have continually tried to improve upon their equipment. The earliest golf clubs were initially carved by the golfer themselves and typically out of wood. Golfers soon turned to skilled craftsmen to produce higher quality equipment. The first record of commissioned golf clubs was by King James IV of Scotland, who hired William Mayne, a bow-maker, to craft him a set of clubs and made him the Royal Club Maker.

In the 1500s a set of clubs consisted of: a set of play clubs, “longnoses”, for driving; fairway clubs or “grassed drivers”, for medium range; “spoons” for short shots; “niblicks” similar to wedges; and a putting “cleek”. These golf clubs were made up of wood with the shafts being made from ash or hazel and the club heads being made from tougher wood like apple, holly, beech or pear. The club head would be connected to the shaft with a splint and then bound with a leather strap.

With the introduction of the “featherie” golf ball in 1618 golf clubs continued to be made with wooden heads, although forging iron into the head was possible, because of the delicacy of the featheries. The wooden clubs were expensive due to the time and effort that went into making them and they were prone to break. This high cost of the clubs made the game of golf an activity reserved for the higher class. Club-makers experimented with different materials on the club face, such as leather, metal, bone fragments, and other materials to increase distance and prevent breakage.

Around 1750 the first club heads made of iron began to emerge from local blacksmith shops, used for “niblicks” or wedges. In 1826 Robert Forgan, a club-maker in Scotland, started to use imported hickory from America to make club shafts. Hickory quickly became the standard wood of choice for club-makers due to its availability and better durability.

In 1848 the “guttie” ball was introduced by Rev. Adam Paterson, which quickly made the “longnoses” or drivers obsolete. Bulgers emerged to replace the longnoses which had a bulbous head, resembling modern woods. By 1900, persimmon became the material of choice for wooden club heads, which was also imported from America.

Back in the 1870’s with the advent of drop forging techniques factories were able to mass produce iron club heads, making them more consistent, lighter and better than the blacksmith made ones. In 1908 it was discovered that grooves on the club face could increase backspin and generate more distance.

The first few decades of the 1900’s saw a lot of experimentation and innovation in the club design. Around 1925 the steel shaft was introduced in the United States, although blacksmiths had experimented with them since the late 1890’s. The R&A, named from The Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St Andrews, is the governing body of the game of golf. The R&A finally legalized the use of steel shafted clubs after the Prince of Wales used them on the Old Course at St Andrews in 1929. The steel shaft provided for greater accuracy and durability. In 1931, after the R&A banned concave-faced wedges, Gene Sarazen invented the modern sand wedge which had a straight face and added bounce.

Up until 1939 it was common for a golfer to carry 20-30 clubs in their bag. However with the advancement of the steel shafted clubs the R&A introduced the 14 club rule in 1939, which limited players to only be allowed to carry 14 clubs. The traditional names of the clubs, like “niblicks” and “spoons”, were replaced by the standard numbering system used to this day.

There was little development and advancement for the next few decades. After World War II development of golf clubs were influenced by research into synthetic and composite materials. In the 1960’s, fiberglass shafts were tried unsuccessfully. In 1963 the casting method of manufacturing club heads was introduced, making clubs more affordable. In the 1970’s, Karsten Solheim invented the Ping Putter, which had more weight at the heel and toe which enabled golfers to putt straighter. In 1973 the graphite shaft was introduced which provided more rigidity, lightness and increased strength over the steel shafts. The more modern graphite shafts are manufactured with different materials to improve performance, such as boron to reduce twisting.

Taylor-Made was the first company to produce metal club headed woods. The popularity of metal club heads over persimmon club heads didn’t become prolific until Callaway introduced the Big Bertha in 1991. The Big Bertha driver, which had an oversized metal club head, was the first of its kind. The oversized metal club heads became the trend for club manufacturers.

In the early 2000’s hybrid clubs, which are a fusion between an iron and a wood, emerged as an alternate to the harder to hit longer irons. Hybrid clubs are becoming more prominent and popular, especially for golfers with a slower swing like seniors or women.

The latest trends in woods are the use of titanium club heads combined with graphite shafts. With new designs continuing to evolve, however club head size for drivers is limited to 460cc. Another trend is the adjustable driver, which gives the golfer the ability to adjust the weight of their driver. This helps a golfer more easily hit a draw or fade depending on how it’s set. The golfer has evolved from making their own clubs from wood to now having them manufactured with the most advance technology, which gives them the ability to personalize it to their individual needs.

Categories: Golf History

Hickory Golf Shaft (or Making a Tapered Dowel)

HE golf bug has bitten me again. I am in the midst of making a set of circa 1870 golf clubs. Having a hand tool background for furniture making has been helpful for understanding general important concepts such as grain direction that are applicable to making golf clubs. On the other hand, I needed to learn several new techniques and work with some unfamiliar components (molten metal, ram’s horn…). This post is part of a few to follow describing hand tool techniques of 19th century golf clubmaking.

Tapered Golf Shaft

The first obstacle was trying to create a golf shaft. Ash was the traditional wood for the shaft up until about the 1820’s. Ash, being a local wood in Scotland, could be worked readily while still green. Thus, it was riven (split) to form straight grained billets, then worked down with a spokeshave. Other woods known to have been used for shafts included lancewood, greenheart, lemonwood, hazel and elm. By 1828, we have evidence that hickory was being used for golf club shafts. Once the springiness and strength of hickory was discovered by the Scottish clubmakers, the other wood species took a back seat. Being imported from the USA, the wood was not as easily worked using green woodworking techniques, although the earlier shafts were still riven. Drawknives would have been tougher to use, so traditional cabinetmaking/joiner tools, such as hand planes, were used to shape the shafts.

The hickory shafts taper from 3/4″ at the grip end down to about 1/2″ and range in length from 34″ (putter) to 44″ (play club). The following concepts on club shaft making could also be applied to make other types of tapered dowels such as:

• Windsor chair spindles
• Pool cues
• Tapered wooden plugs 
• Rake handles

I have made about 20 clubs so far, and have experimented with about a dozen combinations in making the golf shafts. Here are 5 different variations to make the hickory golf club shafts:

• Drawknives and spokeshaves at the shaving horse on a 7/8″ square rod
• Hand planes on the bench, knocking off 4 corners, then 8 arrises and so on
• Same as above but with a hollow plane (concave profile)
• Using the 3/4″ beading cutter on the Stanley 55 plane to create a dowel, then tapering with a spoke shave
• A stail engine, which turned out to be my favored method.
• Stanley No. 77 dowel maker to create a non-tapered rod then taper with desired method

Whenever there are many methods of doing something, it often indicates that there is not one best solution. All of these methods have their drawbacks, but all worked out in the end. Here are three other methods that I have not tried:

• Lathe. I am tempted to think that this may be the best method, but I have had no luck in finding somebody with a 44″ capacity lathe. A steady rest seems mandatory.
• Veritas dowel maker from Lee Valley tools to create a non-tapered rod then taper with desired method
• Purchase a hickory shaft online. 

The Shaving Horse Method

Green wood is easier to work. Watch the grain. Start with a drawknife to take down the corners and finish with the spokeshave, Set the shaft aside to dry, then you can use a card scraper, then sandpaper. Depending on the grain, you may need to push the spokeshave or pull it. If the “flame” point of the grain points toward you, use a pulling motion. A major drawback of the drawknife is inconsistency and tear out. Those who make Windsor chairs may favor this method, but they typically use green wood.  

One can also use the shaving horse and spokeshaves as an ancillary method after creating a 3/4″ dowel.

The Handplane Method

Using a handplane was the favored shaft tapering method by the last half of the 19th Century.

Five-time Open Championship winner and clubmaker, J.H. Taylor,  (likely with his colleague, Mr. Cann) wrote a 15 page detailed treatise on golf clubmaking, in The Book of Golf and Golfers (1899), but divulged only two sentences on the art of making a clubshaft.   Notwithstanding that this is the best reference I have found  to date describing the technique of clubmaking, my guess is that Mr. Taylor purchased his shafts.

The Stanley 45 or 55 Method

If you have a combination plane, you can load your cutter No. 29, the 3/4″ bead, and plane away. Hickory is a difficult wood to work with a molding plane. The going gets tough the deeper you get and you will get a good workout. The result will be a 3/4″ dowel which can be tapered with a stail engine (below) or a spokeshave or handplanes.

The Stail Engine Method

I was racking my brain trying to think of a more efficient method to make a tapered dowel when Roy Underhill’s episode on the Rounder Plane came to the rescue. A stail is another name (Br.) for a wooden tool handle. Americans call this gadget a witchet. Rounder planes are similar, but are not adjustable for diameter. After an evening making the plane, I gave it a whirl (literally):

This contraption works like a giant pencil sharpener. The stock used is a riven, then band sawn, 7/8″ square piece of hickory.  If there was a way to skew the blade,  I am sure the result would be a lot smoother.

The Stanley No. 77 Dowel Maker

This is another variation of the giant pencil sharpener method. Feed in a square piece of stock, crank the handle and out comes a dowel. Various diameter adapters are available.

A card scraper cleans up the faceted edges. A tool called a chair devil, which is just a wooden handled tool holding a card scraper with a 3/4″ semi-circle, works well to remove thin shavings.

For an update on golf shaft making, see this newer post

Illuminated letter “T” by Thomas Hodge from Golf, The Badminton Library

Hickory Golf Club Repair: Wooden Shaft Maintenance

“Don’t you worry about breaking the shaft?”

That’s one of the most commonly asked questions when folks
see me playing with hickory golf clubs. It’s a reasonable concern given the age
of these clubs and one that weighed heavy on my mind when I first started out.

I quickly learned, though, that if properly maintained and
paired with a reset clubhead, a quality wooden shaft can last a long time. Most
importantly, I learned that a cracked shaft isn’t necessarily a death sentence,
either.

***  *** 
***

In this “Hickory Hack,” I share my tips for maintaining and
repairing wooden shafts.

Proper maintenance of a wooden shaft centers around making sure
that the wood stays dry. Most of the clubs you’ll find in an antique store or
flea market will have shafts that look beat up and dried out. Boiled linseed oil
has traditionally been the product of choice for revitalizing wooden
shafts, and I’ve had good success using Birchwood Casey TruOil to reseal mine. Other
hickory golfers have had bad luck using linseed oil (see below), reporting that
it weakened the shaft and led to splitting. For those unlucky with linseed oil,
shellac is their go-to product for a wooden shaft reseal and refinish.   

I recognize the arguments for both linseed oil and shellac, so I won’t
advocate strongly for either. Until I can attribute a shaft break to linseed
oil, I’ll likely continue to use TruOil. But if you have a specific reason to
be concerned about a shaft breaking or you just don’t want to take any chances,
you may as well eliminate the uncertainty and use shellac.

Whatever product you use, I recommend reapplying after a rainy
round or at least every three months. It’s one of the easiest and most important
things you can do to maximize the playing life of a hickory golf club.

***  *** 
***

When you buy a vintage hickory golf club for the purpose of
play, it’s always a good idea to remove the clubhead and inspect the shaft.
Most shaft cracks occur when the club strikes a ball with a loose clubhead –
even imperceptibly so – and the only way to verify a head isn’t loose is to
remove and reset the clubhead before playing with the club.

With the clubhead removed, you’ll be able to see any existing
cracks or splits in the cone of the shaft and repair them with very thin cyanoacrylate
(CA) glue, better known as Super Glue or Crazy Glue. I prefer the fast-flowing
Professional liquid CA made by Loctite.

Once the glue dries, I’ll reseal the shaft, reset the
clubhead with epoxy, and reinforce the crack line with whipping thread – all-in-all,
a small investment of time and effort to repair a vintage shaft. If the repair
doesn’t hold, at least you tried; you can always buy quality hickory shaft
replacement shafts from Louisville Golf and Tad Moore:

 

Here are some other wooden shaft maintenance and repair tips
I’ve collected from hickory golfers on Instagram, hickory golf groups on
Facebook, and the Hickory, Persimmon, Classic Golf forum on Golf WRX:

Regarding linseed oil vs. shellac for resealing a wooden
shaft:

“Restoring the finish on the wood surfaces of a previously
restored-for-play club is very easy to do. Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac (my first
choice), a couple of cotton rags, and 0000 super fine steel wool, are all that
are necessary to restore the finish and maintain the clubs … Instructional
books from the hickory era recommended the use of linseed oil on the shaft and
wood head of a club. I was originally using linseed oil but stopped after
seeing an increase in shafts splitting, and cracking in the neck and heel of
the woods. Because of the age of the clubs, I think that we have to deal with
the wood in a different manner then when it was freshly cured. I do not
recommend using any “oils” on the aged dry wood. We are using varnish to seal
against moisture and stabilize the wood to stay as long as possible in its
current condition. My understanding is that nothing can be done to “improve”
old wood, it can only continue to deteriorate.” – Ralph Livingston III, from his original guide to Hickory Golf Information

“I have used boiled linseed oil on everything from billiard
cues to block planes without any ill effects. I don’t see why it wouldn’t work
for hickory shafts. Just remember to reapply it periodically as it can dry out
(perhaps that is what causes the cracks?)” – James theHogan Fan (Golf WRX)

For repairing cracked or split shafts:

“All heads should be removed, epoxied, and repinned. This is
critical in ensuring shafts won’t split, even the slightest bit of rattle can
cause shaft splitting reverberations. For existing cracks in the shaft,
Titebond III will work. Force the glue into the crack with a razor blade or
compressed air, use a worm clamp or zip tie, and allow 24 hour cure under
pressure. Whip for added strength and you should be in business.” ebeer (Golf WRX)

If you’ve know of any other tried-and-true ways for maintaining
or repairing wooden shafts, drop me a line and I’ll add it to this index.

Shield Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Set

Shield Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Set – Gopher Sport

Wood shaft is designed for high-energy play for all ages. Plastic blades are tough, lightweight, and safe on gym floors. Thicker, reinforced outdoor blades handle any rough outdoor surface.

Specifications

• Wood shaft
• Plastic blade
• Indoor or outdoor options
• Sticks are 36″, 42″, 47″, or 56″L. Goalie stick in 40″L.

Strong Construction

Wooden shaft is stronger than plastic and provides a somewhat softer feel compared to plastic or composite shafts. The end of the stick is covered with a plastic cap to prevent injuries from sharp edges. Thick, durable plastic blade is aerodynamic for harder and faster shots. Sticks are suitable for intermediate and advanced players playing more intense, high-level games.

Set Options

• 12-Player Outdoor Sets. Include 12 sticks (Black/White blades), 2 balls, and instructions.
• 12-Player Indoor Sets. Include 12 sticks, 2 balls, 2 pucks, 2 extra blades, and instructions.
• 14-Player Indoor Sets. Include 12 sticks, 2 goalie sticks, 2 balls, 2 pucks, 2 extra blades, and instructions.

Which floor hockey stick is right for me?

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  & Service

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90,000 Earthen shaft is… What is an Earthen Wall?

Double Shafts Wood / Bamboo Raft Crushing Machine

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& Dcy; & vcy; & ocy; & jcy; & ncy; & acy; & yacy; & dcy; & rcy; & ocy; & bcy; & icy; & lcy; & kcy; & acy; & vcy; & acy; & lcy; & acy; & ocy; & scy; & ucy; & shchcy; & iecy; & scy; & tcy; vcy; & lcy; & yacy; & iecy; & tcy; & scy; yacy; & chcy; & iecy; & rcy; & iecy; & zcy; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & rcy; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & rcy; & comma; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & rcy; & ycy; & vcy; & acy; & icy; & scy; & zhcy; & acy; & vcy; & comma; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & ucy; & mcy; & iecy; & ncy; & softcy; & shcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; yacy; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & mcy; & iecy; & rcy; & acy; & scy; & ycy; & rcy; & softcy; & scy; & ycy; & vcy; & ycy; & khcy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & acy; & lcy; & ocy; & vcy; & period;

& Dcy; & rcy; & iecy; & vcy; & iecy; & scy; & icy; & ncy; & acy; & sol; & bcy; & acy; & mcy; & bcy; & ucy; & kcy; & ocy; & vcy; & ycy; & jcy; & pcy; & lcy; & ocy; & dcy; & rcy; & ocy; & bcy; & icy; & lcy; & kcy; & acy; & tcy; & acy; & kcy; & zhcy; & iecy; & mcy; & ocy; & gcy; & ucy; & tcy; & bcy; & ycy; & tcy; & tcy; & bcy; & ycy; & tcy; & tcy; & vcy; & ycy; & tcy; & tcy; & vcy; & ycy; & tcy; & tcy; & vcy; & ycy; & vcy; & acy; & ncy; & ycy; & dcy; & iecy; & rcy; & iecy; vcy; yacy; & ncy; & ncy; & ycy; & jcy; & pcy; & ycy; & dcy; & dcy; & ocy; & ncy; & icy; & pcy; & rcy; & iecy; & pcy; & rcy; & iecy; & ncy; & acy; & zcy; & ncy; & acy; & chcy; & iecy; & ncy; & acy; & dcy; & lcy; yacy; & icy; & zcy; & mcy; & iecy; & lcy; softcy; & chcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & kcy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & kcy; & ncy & scy; & kcy; & ocy; & vcy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & lcy; & lcy; & acy; & icy; & zcy; & acy; & lcy; & yucy; & mcy; & icy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & comma; & pcy; & ocy; & dcy; & khcy; & ocy; & dcy; & icy; & tcy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; vcy; & scy; & iecy; & khcy; vcy; & icy; & dcy; & ocy; & vcy; & bcy; & ocy; & lcy; & softcy & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & ocy; & bcy; & hardcy; & iecy; & mcy; & acy; & comma; & scy; & lcy; & ocy; & mcy; & acy; & ncy; & ncy; & ycy; & khcy; & ncy; & zhcy; & mcy; & icy; & tcy; & iecy; & bcy; & lcy; & ocy; & kcy; & icy; & rcy; & ocy; & vcy & tcy; & softcy; & icy; & lcy; & icy; & ncy; & iecy; & ncy; & acy; & zhcy; & acy; & tcy; & softcy; & kcy; & ncy; & ocy; & pcy; & kcy; & ucy; & bcy; & lcy; & ocy; & kcys; & acy; & icy; & lcy; & icy; & ncy; & dcy; & rcy; & ocy; & vcy; & icy; & zcy; & lcy; & yucy; & mcy; & icy; & ncy; & icy; & iecy; & vcy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & scy; & pcy; & acy; & vcy; & acy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & lcy; & acy; & comma; & icy; & mcy; & iecy; & iecy; & tcy; & pcy; & rcy; & iecy; & icy; & mcy; & ucy; & shchcy; & iecy; & scy; & tcy; vcy; acy; & iecy; & dcy; & icy; & ncy; & ocy; & ocy; & bcy; & acy; & zcy; & ncy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & vcy; & ycy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & ncy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & comma; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & mcy; & iecy; & rcy; & period; & Vcy; & ocy; & scy; & ncy; & ocy; & vcy; & ncy; & ocy; & mcy; & icy; & scy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; softcy; & z iecy; & ucy; & tcy; & scy; & yacy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & icy; & zcy; & mcy; & iecy; & softcy; & chcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & comma; & dcy; & rcy; & ocy; & bcy; & lcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & icy; & icy; & zcy; & mcy; & iecy; & lcy; softcy; & chcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & ocy; & tcy & ocy; & khcy; & ocy; & tcy; & khcy; & dcy; & ocy; & vcy; & icy; & zcy; & acy; & lcy; & yucy; & mcy; & icy; & ncy; & icy; yacy; & icy; & dcy; & rcy; & ucy; & gcy; & icy; & khcy; & dcy; & iecy; & tcy; & acy; & iecy; & jcy; & icy; & zcy; & acy; & lcy; & yucy; & mcy; & icy; & ncy; & icy; yacy; & period; & Vcy; & zcy; & acy; vcy; & icy; & scy; & icy; & mcy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & mcy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & ocy; & tcy; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & mcy; & iecy; & rcy; & acy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & acy; & lcy; & acy; & comma; & kcy; & lcy; & icy; & iecy; & ncy; & tcy; & mcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & iecy; & tcy; vcy; & ycy; & bcy; & rcy; & acy; & tcy; & softcy; & icy; & zcy; & lcy; & yucy; & mcy; & icy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & shcy; & icy; & ncy; & kcy; & ocy; & vcy; & kcy; & icy; & mcy; & acy; & shcy; & ncy; & ycy; & icy; & chcy; & iecy; & tcy; & ycy; & rcy; & iecy; & ocy; & scy; & icy; & acy; & lcy; & yucy; & mcy; & icy; & ncy; & icy; & iecy; & vcy; & ycy; & kh & acy; & mcy & shcy; & icy; & ncy; & ycy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & shcy; & icy; & ncy; & kcy; & ocy; & vcy; & kcy; & icy; & period;

& Dcy; & rcy; & iecy; & vcy; & iecy; & scy; & icy; & ncy; & acy; & sol; & bcy; & acy; & mcy; & bcy; & ucy; & kcy; & ocy; & vcy; & ycy; & jcy; & pcy; & lcy; & ocy; & dcy; & rcy; & ocy; & bcy; & icy; & lcy; & kcy; & acy; & shcy; & icy; & rcy; & ocy; & kcy; & ocy; & icy; & scy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & softcy; & zcy; & ucy; & iecy; & tcy; & yacy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & ucy; & dcy; & acy; & lcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; yacy; & ocy; & tcy; & khcy; & ocy; & dcy; & ocy; & vcy; & pcy; & lcy; & acy; & scy; & tcy; & lcy; & acy; & scy; & tcy; & acy; & scy; & scy; & icy; & rcy; & iecy; & zcy; & icy; & ncy; & ycy; & comma; & ocy; & tcy; & khcy; & ocy; & dcy; & ocy; & vcy; & dcy; & rcy; & iecy; & vcy; & iecy; & scy; & icy; & ncy; & ycy; & icy; & dcy; & rcy; & ucy; & gcy; & icy; & khcy; & ocy & khcy; & ocy; & dcy; & ocy; & vcy; & period;

& KHcy; & acy; & rcy; & acy; & kcy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & scy; & tcy; & icy; & kcy; & acy; & dcy; & rcy; & ocy; & bcy; & icy; & lcy; & k coloncy; & acy; & lcy; & k coloncy; & acy
1 & period; & Vcy; & ycy; & scy; & ocy; & kcy; & acy; & yacy; & ecy; & fcy; & fcy; & iecy; & kcy; & tcy; & icy; vcy; & ncy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & softcy; & pcy; & rcy ; & icy; & zcy; & vcy; & ocy; & dcy; & scy; & tcy; & vcy; & acy; & colon;
2 & period; & mcy; & iecy; & khcy; & acy; & ncy; & icy; & zcy; & icy; & rcy; & ocy; & vcy; & acy; & ncy; & ncy; & ycy; & khcy; & icy; & lcy; & icy; & acy; & v ocy; & mcy; & acy; & v ocy; & mcy; ; & acy; & tcy; & icy; & chcy; & iecy; & scy; & kcy; & yacy; & zcy; & gcy; & rcy; & ucy; & zcy; & kcy; & acy; & semi;
3 & period; & Vcy; & ycy; & scy; & ocy; & kcy; & acy; & yacy; & scy; & tcy; & iecy; & pcy; & iecy; & ncy; & softcy; & acy; & vcy; & tcy; & ocy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & icy; & zcy; & acy; & tscy; & icy; & icy; & period;

& Pcy; & rcy; & icy; & ncy; & tscy; & icy; & pcy; & colon;
& Pcy; & ocy; & dcy; & shcy; & icy; & pcy; & ncy; & icy; & kcy; & icy; & shcy; & pcy; & icy; & ncy; & dcy; & iecy; & lcy; & yacy; & scy; & ocy; & bcy; & ie & kcy; & icy ; & scy; & tcy; & ocy; & rcy; & ocy; & ncy; & chcy; & iecy; & rcy; & iecy; & zcy; vcy; & iecy; & dcy; & ucy; & shchcy; & icy; & jcy; & vcy; & acy; & lcy; & dcy; & vcy; & icy; & gcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & lcy; & yacy; & icy; & rcy; & iecy; & dcy; & ucy; & kcy; & tcy; & ocy; & rcy; & acy; & pcy; & ocy; & vcy; & ocy; & rcy; & ocy; & tcy; & ncy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; vcy; & iecy; & dcy; & ucy; & shchcy; & icy; & jcy; & vcy; & acy; & lcy; & pcy; & rcy; & icy; & vcy; & ocy; & dcy; & icy; & tcy; & vcy; & dcy; & iecy; & jcy; & scy; & tcy; & vcy; & icy; & iecy; & mcy; & iecy; & khcy; & acy; & ncy; & icy; & zcy; & mcy; & scy; & ocy; & scy; & pcy; & icy; & rcy; & acy; & softcy; & ncy; & ycy; & mcy; & icy; & ncy; & ocy; & zhcy; & icy; & comma; & ncy; & ocy; & zhcy; & icy; & ncy; & acy; & dcy; & vcy; & ucy; & khcy; & vcy; & acy; & lcy; & ocy; & vcy; & zcy; & acy; & tscy; & iecy; & pcy; & lcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; vcy; & mcy; & iecy; & scy; & tcy; & iecy; & comma; & scy; & tcy; & iecy; & mcy; & chcy; & tcy; & ocy; & bcy; & ycy; & ocy; & tcy; & ocy; & rcy; vcy; & acy; & tcy; & softcy; & comma; & scy; & ycy; & rcy; & softcy; & iecy; & vcy; & ycy; & khcy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & lcy; & lcy; & ocy; vcy; & icy; & pcy; & ocy; & vcy; & tcy; & ocy; & icy; & tcy; & softcy; & ecy; & tcy; & ocy; & tcy; & shcy; & acy; & gcy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & zcy; & acy; vcy; & iecy; & rcy; & shcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & ynacy; & ucy; & ncy; & icy; & ynacy; & ucy; & ncy & icy; & chcy; & tcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & period; & Ecy; & lcy; & iecy; & kcy; & tcy; & rcy; & ocy; & ncy; & ncy; & ocy; & iecy; & ucy; & pcy; & rcy; acy; vcy; & lcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & iecy; & dcy; & iecy; & tcy; & iecy; & dcy; & iecy; & tcy; & lcy; & icy; & icy; & mcy; & iecy; & iecy; & tcy; & ocy; & bcy; & rcy; & acy; & tcy; & ncy; & ucy; & yucy; & acy; & vcy; & tcy; & ocy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & icy; & chcy; & iecy; & scy; & kcy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & ucy; & rcy; & acy; & vcy; & lcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & ucy; & scy; & tcy; & rcy; & ocy; & jcy; & scy; & tcy; vcy; & acy; & mcy; & icy; & comma; & kcy; & ocy; & gcy; & dcy; & acy; & pcy; & ocy; & scy; & lcy; & ucy; & zhcy; & icy; & tcy; & softcy; & pcy; & iecy; & rcy; & iecy; & kcy; & acy; & rcy; & mcy; & lcy; & icy; & acy; & ncy; & icy; & iecy; & icy; & lcy; & icy; & scy; & ycy; & rcy; & softcy; & yacy; – & ecy; & tcy; & ocy; & scy; & lcy; & icy; & shcy; & kcy; & ocy; & mcy; & bcy; & ocy; ; & softcy; & shcy; & ocy; & iecy; & comma; & mcy; & acy; & shcy; & icy; & ncy; & acy; & bcy; & ucy; & dcy; & iecy; & tcy; & rcy; & acy; & bcy; & ocy; & tcy; & acy; & tcy; & softcy; vcy; & pcy; & iecy; & rcy; & iecy; vcy; & iecy; & rcy; & ncy; & ucy; & tcy; & ocy; & mcy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & zhcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & icy; & icy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & acy; & ncy; & ocy; & vcy; & kcy; & icy; & comma; & vcy; & ocy; & icy; & zcy; & bcy; & iecy; & zhcy; & acy; & ncy; & icy; & iecy; & pcy; & ocy; vcy; & rcy; & iecy; & zhcy; & dcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & d & scy; & icy & kcy; & ocy; & vcy; & ycy; & khcy; & ncy; & ocy; & zhcy; & iecy; & jcy; & icy; & lcy; & icy; & mcy; & ocy; & tcy; & ocy; & rcy; & acy; & period; & CHcy; & tcy; & ocy; & bcy; & ycy; & pcy; & ocy; & vcy; & ycy; & scy; & icy; & tcy; & softcy; & scy; & rcy; & ocy; & kcy; & scy; & lcy; & ucy; & zhcy; & bcy; & ycy; & icy; & bcy; & ycy; & icy; & ocy; & zcy; & mcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & ncy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & icy; & comma; & vcy; & iecy; & dcy; & ucy; & shchcy; & icy; & jcy; vcy; & acy; & lcy; & scy; & pcy; & ocy; & mcy; & ocy; & shchcy; & softcy; & yucy; & ocy; & bcy; & rcy; & acy; & bcy; & rcy; & acy; & bcy; & bcy; & rcy; & acy; & bcy; & kcy; & icy; & dcy; & acy; & ncy; & ncy; & ycy; & khcy; & icy; & scy; & icy; & scy; & tcy; & iecy; & mcy; & ycy; & kcy; & ocy; & ncy; & dcy; & icy; & tscy; & icy; & ocy; & ncy; & icy; & rcy; & ocy; & vcy; & acy; & ncy; & icy; & vcy; & ocy; & zcy; & dcy; & ucy; & khcy; & acy; & scy; & pcy; & ocy; & mcy; & ocy; & shchcy; & softcy; & yucy; vcy; & ycy; & scy; & ocy; & kcy; & ocy; & kcy; & ocy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & & chcy; & iecy; & scy; & tcy; & vcy; & acy; & icy; & mcy; & pcy; & ocy; & rcy; & tcy; & icy; & rcy; & ucy; & iecy; & mcy; & ycy; & khcy; & ncy; & ocy; & zhcy; & ie & jcy;

& Tcy; & iecy; & khcy; & ncy; & icy; & chcy; & iecy; & scy; & kcy; & icy; & iecy; & pcy; & acy; & rcy; & acy; & mcy; & iecy; & tcy; & rcy; & ycy; & colon;

& Fcy; & ocy; & tcy; & ocy; & colon;

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90,000 Knife shafts of woodworking machines – Woodworking machines

Knife shafts of woodworking machines

K Category:

Woodworking machines

Knife shafts for woodworking machines

Knife shafts are used on machines that process wood by milling, for example, on planing, thicknessing, four-sided longitudinal milling.

The knife shaft (Fig. 1, a) is made of steel. Its design provides for the possibility of fixing knives on it and giving them a rotational motion. The middle part of the shaft is made thicker with grooves to accommodate knives and devices for their fastening. On both sides of the thickened part there are journals with which the shaft is installed in the bearings. A pulley is attached to one end of the shaft to transmit rotational motion. Often, instead of a pulley, a half-coupling is installed to directly connect the knife shaft to the motor shaft.In this case, the axis of the motor shaft must be aligned with the axis of the cutter shaft.

In the thicknessing machines SR6-8, flat sickle-shaped knives are placed on the knife shaft (Fig. 1, b), the cutting edges of which are located on the cylindrical surface of the shaft along helical lines. The knife shaft with such knives is characterized by smooth operation, since the working part of the cutting edge has the least (almost constant in time) contact with the wood being processed. The surface processed with such knives has a high roughness class.

Fig. 1. Knife shafts:
a – with a straight-line arrangement of knives, in – with knives installed along a helical line; 1 – pulley, 2 – shaft, 3 – bearing, 4 – knife

Knife shafts make 6,000 or more revolutions per minute, so the shafts and knives are balanced so that the centers of gravity of two knives installed on opposite sides of the shaft are equally distant from the axis of rotation. Otherwise, the emergence of unbalanced centrifugal forces is inevitable, causing strong vibrations, which leads to a deterioration in the quality of processing and to the breakdown of machine elements.

Knife shafts are designed for fastening one, two or more pairs of knives, Knife fastening methods are shown in fig. 2.

Knives (Fig. 2, a, b) are installed in the grooves of the thickened part of the shaft, each of them is clamped between the groove wall and the wedge-shaped insert and bolts, which, when turned out of the inserts, rest their heads against the groove wall opposite to the knife. To evenly clamp the knife, several bolts are provided, distributed along the entire length of the shaft.

Fig.2. Methods for attaching knives:
a, b – bolts, c – wedges with a screw; 1 – stop bar, 2 – screw for extending knives, 3 – knife, 4 – insert, 5 – bolt, 6 – springs for extending knives, 7, 9 – wedges, 8 – screw for tightening wedges

When changing dull knives, loosen all the bolts, then remove the knives and, having installed the sharpened ones, fix them, tightening all the bolts in several steps. This operation is laborious and time-consuming.

Fig. 2, c shows a more perfect method for attaching knives.Here, clamp each knife with an insert, I use two wedges and a wedge using a screw. The screw when tightening it is torus. with a wrench moves the wedge, which is accompanied by the movement of the wedges towards the knife, which create the required pressure on the insert. To remove the knife and replace it with another, you need to unscrew the screw. To set the knife in height, there are screws (see Fig. 2, a) with clamps located in special grooves in the shaft, or springs (see Fig. 2, b).

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90,000 Romania.Alba Iulia: vienanmeri – LiveJournal

In Alba Iulia we combined an educational excursion and pilgrimage, especially since the temples are located on the territory of one fortress.

The history of the city and the fortress is the history of the conquest of these lands by the Romans. After the war with the Dacians (1st century AD), the Romans began building a military camp (lat. Castrum) on the territory of the present fortress. Camp XIII Paired Legion (lat.Legio XIII Gemina Pia Fidelis), which participated in the wars against the Dacians, was formerly called Apulum and occupied an area in 21 AD

The location was not accidental. From here, the Romans controlled gold reserves from the nearby Apusenia mountains, by the middle of the 3rd century. the city of Apulum was also known as the “City of Gold”.

During the predominance of the Slavs in Transylvania (IX-XI centuries.) the city began to be called in medieval sources under the Slavic names Balgrad or Belgrade. In 953, the Hungarian governor of the city of Zhombor (Zsombor) was baptized in Balgrad under the name Julius. Since the XI century. Balgrad is part of the Kingdom of Hungary. In Latin, the city was called Alba Iulia (Alba Iulia, first mentioned in this form in 1097).

After the conquest of the territory by the Hungarians and Alba Iulia became the center of the Catholic diocese of Transylvania and the royal fortress from 1177, the Catholic Cathedral of St. Michael was erected in the fortress.It is considered an important monument of early Transylvanian medieval architecture. Combines elements of Gothic and Roman styles.

Inside the cathedral is the sarcophagus of Janos Hunyadi (father of Matthias Corvinus) – a legendary hero who died of the plague.

We looked into the cathedral after we got acquainted with the historical monuments in the fortress.

There is an equestrian statue and a bas-relief dedicated to Mihai the Brave, who was able to unite three Romanian principalities here in Alba Iulia in 1600: Transylvania, Moldavia and Wallachia; an obelisk in memory of the leaders of the peasant uprising of 1784, Chorea, Kloski and Krisan, who were executed in 1785 in the Habsburg Empire; Custozza monument, dedicated to the soldiers of the 50th Regiment who died in Italy at the Battle of Custozza in 1866

When the region was a principality of the Habsburg Empire, under Emperor Charles VI was in 1714.a vast fortress in the shape of a star was erected, modeled on the Vauban fortifications of France, and the city itself received the German name Karlsburg. The length of all walls and fortifications along the perimeter exceeds 12 km.

Through the gates of the fortress, we went out to admire the city from above. This is one of the six preserved gates of the fortress. They led to the parade ground, where the exercises of the fortress garrison took place.

On the way back we went to the Orthodox cathedral, built in 1921.specially for the coronation of Ferdinand and Mary as monarchs of Greater Romania, their busts are in front of the entrance to the church. The church is shaped like a Greek cross with an open porch.

Before the construction of a cathedral near this place, on December 1, 1918, the annexation of Transylvania to Romania was announced.

This is how you can visit the same fortress in different eras and learn the history of the events that took place then.

Start

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