Wooden shafts: Port Orford Cedar Wood Arrow Shafts

Table of Contents

Forrester Wood Shafts – Home

I will help you carefully select a shaft that meets your needs in both a dynamic spine element (matched to your bow weight/draw length) and an aesthetic sense to compliment the artistry of your bow and the shooting goals of you the archer. Many times through the shaft consultation process I will help you select a shaft that is spined less than the manufacturers of softwoods recommend. This is due to the speed of which hardwoods can recover from “archers paradox”. The options are almost endless when choosing a hardwood shaft for your individual needs. Please feel free to send me an email or call me for any questions.

Spines to match your needs in ranges from 25-140 lbs and weights 270 grains up to 850 gr.

All sizes available up to 34″ long.

“Heavy Hitters” are in Leopardwood, Hard Rock Maple, Jatoba, (Brazilian Cherry) and
Red Balau.

NEW: LIGHT WEIGHT HARDWOODS with interlocking grain that won’t split like spruce,
cedar, or fir after a “Robin Hood” shot.

Light weight hardwood: (See shaftwood options page for full list)
* MAHOGANY…5/16, spines 33-53#, 280-400 grains.
(11/32, spines 54-70#, 420-500 grains).
*Match grade competition shafts: +/- 5 lbs spine and +/- 5
grains per dozen shafts.

RED BALAU…9/32, spines 45-50#, 425-480 grains.

Price: $80/doz. Teak & Puprpleheart
$70/doz. Leopardwood, Hard Rock Maple, Red Balau, Lacewood
$60/doz. Matched Grade Mahogany
Add $15/doz. for larger point footing.
Add: Shipping is $10-15.00 for 12-24 shafts.
(Call for outside continental U.S.)

7 sample shafts for $30
Add: Shipping $10

NEW: NATURAL FOOTINGS are now available on 9/32 and 5/16 for larger field points
and broadheads for an additional $15/doz.

Tapering (custom) is now available for Mahogany and Lacewood for an
additional $15.00

Extended length shafts from 33″ – 36″ shafts available in Mahogany for
an additional $10. 00

I guarantee my work with free exchange if needed. As these are ‘custom’ shafts, I’ll work with you personally to make sure we find the best combination for you.

I’ll need to know your bow type, draw length, point weight, hunting big game or smaller game, target shooting, and distance you are comfortable shooting.

List of bows and matching shafts are recommendations based on testing. Different combinations can be done based on preference. Arrow material is based on availability. Spines and weights listed are approximations depending on section of tree being harvested. Each dozen arrows ordered are cut from the same section of board to ensure the best match possible.

Spines are matched +/- 8 lbs and +/-10 grains.

Match grade competition shafts: +/- 5 lbs spine and +/- 5 grains per dozen shafts.

Order completion and delivery time will be determined at time of actual order.

To learn more about my approach: http://www.forresterwoodshafts.com/news-release. html

A Comparison of Swab Handle Materials

The handles or shafts of swabs and applicators have distinctly different attributes. How do you know which is best for your business or work? Start with this primer. In this article, we compare the different types of swab handle materials so you can make the best choice for your application.

Wood Applicator Shafts

Wood is about as basic as it gets when it comes to swab shafts. Puritan’s wood shafts are sticks milled from Northern White birch. They are economical, sturdy and rigid, and well-suited for applying to or cleaning in basic patient care or industrial applications.

A natural material, wood may introduce dust and can fracture in use. Applicators with wood shafts are not suitable for microbiological collection applications. Standard lengths are 3” and 6”.

Plastic Applicator Shafts

This material comes in many forms and is desirable for its clean, non-porous and non-dusting properties. The common plastic shafts for applicators are hollow polystyrene, and most often white in color. These are more costly than wood, but also more flexible, and will break cleanly if desired. This quality makes the synthetic material suitable for microbiological specimen collection.

Plastic applicator shafts are commonly found in patient care and specimen collection, and also used in industrial cleaning applications. Standard lengths are 3” and 6”, but these can be scored to break at a predictable point.

Polypropylene, also a synthetic plastic material, is durable and resistant to fracture. This shaft is suitable for patient care, specimen collection, and a broad range of industrial applications where greater durability is required.

Wire Applicator Shafts

Applicators with wire shafts are often used in medical settings. Made of aluminum or stainless steel, these fine-diameter flexible shafts are useful in specimen collection where standard swabs are simply too big. They’re also an ideal choice in specialty industrial applications where conductivity is not a concern.

Paper Applicator Shafts

Paper is a familiar shaft material for lollipops, but can also be found in tipped applicators. Paper is smooth, white, and somewhat flexible. It is available in fine diameter for critical cleaning applications and in longer lengths for medical applications. The range of standard applicators with paper shafts is limited when compared to wood or plastic shaft products.

Custom Swab Handles and Shafts

Looking for something else? When your application requires shaft properties that are beyond basic, contact Puritan’s product specialists to discuss the possibilities. There are many shaft material options in the Puritan line, and more available to create your custom product.

The Art of Making Shafts

The Art of Making Shafts – Wapiti Archery POC

We harvest all of our own arrow bolts in the Pacific Northwest from properties owned by our families.

We pick the best snags or downed logs that we can find. Most of this wood has either been standing dead or laying on the ground for 50-100 years. All of these bolts are cut to 36″, hand split in half, then into quarters, and then hand packed out to the road and loaded on the truck.

The bolts are then put inside our milling facility to dry. Once dried down to a certain moisture content, they are then run through a Baker resaw/bandsaw where they are cut down into 2″ planks for easy handling.

Then they will be moved into a state of the art dehumidification kiln to be brought down to the right moisture content. We will then move them to a room with big fans and room temperature to set for 2-3 weeks to stabilize.

Once the planks are dried to a certain moisture content, we then take them to a planer. They are run through the planer to be prettied up so that we can see the grain more clearly. Once we have decided the plank has good, straight grain, because here at Wapiti Archery POC, we believe a premium shaft has good, straight grain from end to end.

To find the grain in the plank, we run an awl, which is a long pointed spike, down the grain line on the plank. This tells us how much we have to take off with the jointer to line the grain up. This is so we have grain end to end on our shafts. Straight grain is very important for a good, durable port orford cedar shaft.

Then we take the board to the jointer and joint down to that line, to line up the grain. The grain will be checked several times in the next couple phases to make sure the grain stays straight on the board.

The gang saw is a 3 bladed saw, which is used to cut the planks into smaller 3/8″ wide planks. After running the board through the gang saw one time, the grain is checked on the plank to make sure we did not go off of grain line. If so, it goes back to the jointer to be straighted up. These little planks, once cut, are put into a cart and left for 2-3 days to stabilize.

Once we are done gangsawing all of our wood into smaller planks, it is then taken to the bandsaw where it is turned into squares.

These squares are put into buckets and left for 1-2 days to stabilize and make sure the moisture content is correct before running into shafts.

We are now ready to turn the squares into the world’s finest tapered port orford cedar shafts. This machine was built in the 1940s and is still in production today. This machine is no regular arrow machine, when you put a square 3/8″ stick in the machine, it tapers the last 9″ of the shaft down to 5/16″ on the nock end of shafts that are 11/32″ or 23/64″. The machine also builds a 5/16″ tapered shaft which tapers down to 9/32″ on the nock end and these shafts are used by some of the finest traditional shooters in the world and have won many world and state titles.

The shafts after coming out of the ol’ arrow machine are then checked for grain straightness, splits, and any other possible defects. These shafts are then put into cans and moved to the spining room to sit for at least 48 hours to stabilize. Since these shafts have been slightly compressed, they have to sit awhile for the grain to stabilize.

Once the shafts get to the spining room, they are lightly hand sanded. The ones that do not make premiums are not sanded, they are thrown into a bucket to be redoweled and made into kids arrows. The premium shafts are then spined into 5# increments and checked again for grain straightness, and are hand straightened if needed. Not all wood that is taken from the woods will make heavy shafts, we have to run 100s of shafts to get a couple dozen heavies if we are lucky. The wood today, has not changed from the wood that was used 40 years ago. They just ran a lot of wood to get heavy shafts, and our poor old machine will run 300-400 shafts on a good day.

The shafts, once they have been spined, are then grain weighed, matched up within 10 grains, bundled into dozens, and put into bins. We here at Wapiti Archery POC, hope that you will be patient with us and our small company. We try to build the best poc shafts on the market today and we believe that we do that. So, if you ever have to wait for a certain spine shaft for any length of time, we are sure that when you receive them, they will be the finest shafts you have ever shot and well worth the wait, now that you see what we go through to build them.

Thank you faithful customers for your patience with us and our wood,

Dan, Wapiti Archery POC

Since the inception of the game of golf, players have continually tried to improve upon their equipment. The earliest golf clubs were initially carved by the golfer themselves and typically out of wood. Golfers soon turned to skilled craftsmen to produce higher quality equipment. The first record of commissioned golf clubs was by King James IV of Scotland, who hired William Mayne, a bow-maker, to craft him a set of clubs and made him the Royal Club Maker.

In the 1500s a set of clubs consisted of: a set of play clubs, “longnoses”, for driving; fairway clubs or “grassed drivers”, for medium range; “spoons” for short shots; “niblicks” similar to wedges; and a putting “cleek”. These golf clubs were made up of wood with the shafts being made from ash or hazel and the club heads being made from tougher wood like apple, holly, beech or pear. The club head would be connected to the shaft with a splint and then bound with a leather strap.

With the introduction of the “featherie” golf ball in 1618 golf clubs continued to be made with wooden heads, although forging iron into the head was possible, because of the delicacy of the featheries. The wooden clubs were expensive due to the time and effort that went into making them and they were prone to break. This high cost of the clubs made the game of golf an activity reserved for the higher class. Club-makers experimented with different materials on the club face, such as leather, metal, bone fragments, and other materials to increase distance and prevent breakage.

The first few decades of the 1900’s saw a lot of experimentation and innovation in the club design. Around 1925 the steel shaft was introduced in the United States, although blacksmiths had experimented with them since the late 1890’s. The R&A, named from The Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St Andrews, is the governing body of the game of golf. The R&A finally legalized the use of steel shafted clubs after the Prince of Wales used them on the Old Course at St Andrews in 1929. The steel shaft provided for greater accuracy and durability. In 1931, after the R&A banned concave-faced wedges, Gene Sarazen invented the modern sand wedge which had a straight face and added bounce.

Club Monikers: Then and Now
Modern	Old
1 Wood	Driver
2 Wood	Brassie
3 Wood	Spoon
4 Wood	Wooden Cleek
1 Iron	Driving Iron
2 Iron	Mid Iron
3 Iron	Mid Mashie
4 Iron	Mashie Iron
5 Iron	Mashie
6 Iron	Spade Mashie
7 Iron	Mashie Niblick
8 Iron	Lofting Iron
9 Iron	Niblick
Putter	Putting Cleek

There was little development and advancement for the next few decades. After World War II development of golf clubs were influenced by research into synthetic and composite materials. In the 1960’s, fiberglass shafts were tried unsuccessfully. In 1963 the casting method of manufacturing club heads was introduced, making clubs more affordable. In the 1970’s, Karsten Solheim invented the Ping Putter, which had more weight at the heel and toe which enabled golfers to putt straighter. In 1973 the graphite shaft was introduced which provided more rigidity, lightness and increased strength over the steel shafts. The more modern graphite shafts are manufactured with different materials to improve performance, such as boron to reduce twisting.

The latest trends in woods are the use of titanium club heads combined with graphite shafts. With new designs continuing to evolve, however club head size for drivers is limited to 460cc. Another trend is the adjustable driver, which gives the golfer the ability to adjust the weight of their driver. This helps a golfer more easily hit a draw or fade depending on how it’s set. The golfer has evolved from making their own clubs from wood to now having them manufactured with the most advance technology, which gives them the ability to personalize it to their individual needs.

HE golf bug has bitten me again. I am in the midst of making a set of circa 1870 golf clubs. Having a hand tool background for furniture making has been helpful for understanding general important concepts such as grain direction that are applicable to making golf clubs. On the other hand, I needed to learn several new techniques and work with some unfamiliar components (molten metal, ram’s horn…). This post is part of a few to follow describing hand tool techniques of 19th century golf clubmaking.

The first obstacle was trying to create a golf shaft. Ash was the traditional wood for the shaft up until about the 1820’s. Ash, being a local wood in Scotland, could be worked readily while still green. Thus, it was riven (split) to form straight grained billets, then worked down with a spokeshave. Other woods known to have been used for shafts included lancewood, greenheart, lemonwood, hazel and elm. By 1828, we have evidence that hickory was being used for golf club shafts. Once the springiness and strength of hickory was discovered by the Scottish clubmakers, the other wood species took a back seat. Being imported from the USA, the wood was not as easily worked using green woodworking techniques, although the earlier shafts were still riven. Drawknives would have been tougher to use, so traditional cabinetmaking/joiner tools, such as hand planes, were used to shape the shafts.

Advertisement from The Golfing Annual 1893-94, Vol. 7, Ed. by David Duncan

Green wood is easier to work. Watch the grain. Start with a drawknife to take down the corners and finish with the spokeshave, Set the shaft aside to dry, then you can use a card scraper, then sandpaper. Depending on the grain, you may need to push the spokeshave or pull it. If the “flame” point of the grain points toward you, use a pulling motion. A major drawback of the drawknife is inconsistency and tear out. Those who make Windsor chairs may favor this method, but they typically use green wood.

A jig to check diameter of shaft

From Blackheath Golfing Lays 1873

Five-time Open Championship winner and clubmaker, J.H. Taylor, (likely with his colleague, Mr. Cann) wrote a 15 page detailed treatise on golf clubmaking, in The Book of Golf and Golfers (1899), but divulged only two sentences on the art of making a clubshaft. Notwithstanding that this is the best reference I have found to date describing the technique of clubmaking, my guess is that Mr.

Taylor purchased his shafts.

Start by tapering the four sides

V-shaped cradle

Planing the edges of the shaft into an octagon.

The aluminum bars, affixed together with bolts and wing nuts through three slots, are used to mark the taper lines.

The Stanley 55 + muscle making a 3/4″ dowel. The special clamp elevates the
stock so that both fences can be used without bottoming out.

The inside is tapered to accommodate stock about 7/8″ square.

This contraption works like a giant pencil sharpener.

The stock used is a riven, then band sawn, 7/8″ square piece of hickory.
If there was a way to skew the blade,
I am sure the result would be a lot smoother.

As the wing nuts are tightened gradually, the dowel diameter lessens. This particular stail engine can make dowels form 3/4″ to 1/2″. Chamfer the corners of the stock first.

I thought I remembered playing with the Stanley 77 as a kid.

Putter with hickory shaft and beech head.

The beech wood for the clubhead came from a tree that was felled on the golf course adjacent to the 18th tee near my house. We used a two man cross-cut saw to cut the tall massive stump into sections, hauled the logs with a wheel barrow, then split that log with wedges. Once the log splits were manageable, milling was completed with a band saw. The wood was air dried for over two years.

Proper maintenance of a wooden shaft centers around making sure
that the wood stays dry. Most of the clubs you’ll find in an antique store or
flea market will have shafts that look beat up and dried out. Boiled linseed oil
has traditionally been the product of choice for revitalizing wooden
shafts, and I’ve had good success using Birchwood Casey TruOil to reseal mine. Other
hickory golfers have had bad luck using linseed oil (see below), reporting that
it weakened the shaft and led to splitting. For those unlucky with linseed oil,
shellac is their go-to product for a wooden shaft reseal and refinish.

“Restoring the finish on the wood surfaces of a previously
restored-for-play club is very easy to do. Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac (my first
choice), a couple of cotton rags, and 0000 super fine steel wool, are all that
are necessary to restore the finish and maintain the clubs … Instructional
books from the hickory era recommended the use of linseed oil on the shaft and
wood head of a club. I was originally using linseed oil but stopped after
seeing an increase in shafts splitting, and cracking in the neck and heel of
the woods. Because of the age of the clubs, I think that we have to deal with
the wood in a different manner then when it was freshly cured. I do not
recommend using any “oils” on the aged dry wood. We are using varnish to seal
against moisture and stabilize the wood to stay as long as possible in its
current condition. My understanding is that nothing can be done to “improve”
old wood, it can only continue to deteriorate.” – Ralph Livingston III, from his original guide to Hickory Golf Information

“All heads should be removed, epoxied, and repinned. This is
critical in ensuring shafts won’t split, even the slightest bit of rattle can
cause shaft splitting reverberations. For existing cracks in the shaft,
Titebond III will work. Force the glue into the crack with a razor blade or
compressed air, use a worm clamp or zip tie, and allow 24 hour cure under
pressure. Whip for added strength and you should be in business.” ebeer (Golf WRX)

{“140006,440002,600040,58003005”:{“id”:3750,”price”:”$195.00″,”retailPrice”:”$195.00″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”In Stock”,”upc”:”17-321″,”uom”:”Set”,”externalId”:”16647″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-08-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/411/G-17321-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 42\”L Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Set – Outdoor, 12-Player”,”mediaTitle”:”42\”L, Outdoor, 12-Player Set”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”12-Player Set, Outdoor, 42\”L”,”colorGradient”:”#ffffff;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”1400085,440001,600040,100064″:{“id”:3749,”price”:”$20.95″,”retailPrice”:”$20.95″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”In Stock”,”upc”:”17-079″,”uom”:”Ea”,”externalId”:”13517″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-08-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/391/G-17079-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 42\”L Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Stick – Red”,”mediaTitle”:”42\”L, Indoor, Individual Stick, Red”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”Individual Stick, Indoor, 42\”L, Red Blade”,”colorGradient”:”#ef3725;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”1400085,440001,600042,10005″:{“id”:3753,”price”:”$21. 95″,”retailPrice”:”$21.95″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”In Stock”,”upc”:”17-558″,”uom”:”Ea”,”externalId”:”17096″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-08-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/473/G-17558-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 47\”L Wood-Shaft Hockey Stick – Blue Blade”,”mediaTitle”:”47\”L, Indoor, Individual Stick, Blue”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”Individual Stick, Indoor, 47\”L, Blue Blade”,”colorGradient”:”#000099;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”140006,440002,600039,58003005″:{“id”:3758,”price”:”$165.00″,”retailPrice”:”$165.00″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”In Stock”,”upc”:”17-920″,”uom”:”Set”,”externalId”:”17543″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-08-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/580/G-17920-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 36\”L Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Set – Outdoor, 12-Player”,”mediaTitle”:”36\”L, Outdoor, 12-Player Set”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”12-Player Set, Outdoor, 36\”L”,”colorGradient”:”#ffffff;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”1400085,440001,600012,10004″:{“id”:3744,”price”:”$19. 95″,”retailPrice”:”$19.95″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”Ships Soon”,”upc”:”10-190″,”uom”:”Ea”,”externalId”:”17542″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-20-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/336/G-10190-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 38\”L Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Goalie Stick – Black”,”mediaTitle”:”40\”L (Goalie), Indoor, Individual Stick, Black”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”Individual Stick, Indoor, 40\”L Goalie, Black Blade”,”colorGradient”:”#000000;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”140007,440001,600042,58003005″:{“id”:3751,”price”:”$249.00″,”retailPrice”:”$249.00″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”In Stock”,”upc”:”17-556″,”uom”:”Set”,”externalId”:”16646″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-08-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/471/G-17556-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 47\”L Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Set – Indoor, 14-Player”,”mediaTitle”:”47\”L, Indoor, 14-Player Set”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”14-Player Set, Indoor, 47\”L”,”colorGradient”:”#ffffff;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”140006,440001,600042,58003005″:{“id”:3756,”price”:”$215. 00″,”retailPrice”:”$215.00″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”Ships Soon”,”upc”:”17-563″,”uom”:”Set”,”externalId”:”16644″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-20-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/476/G-17563-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 47\”L Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Set – Indoor, 12 Player”,”mediaTitle”:”47\”L, Indoor, 12-Player Set”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”12-Player Set, Indoor, 47\”L”,”colorGradient”:”#ffffff;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”140006,440002,600047,58003005″:{“id”:3745,”price”:”$219.00″,”retailPrice”:”$219.00″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”In Stock”,”upc”:”12-290″,”uom”:”Set”,”externalId”:”13519″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-08-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/384/G-12290-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 56\”L Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Set – Outdoor, 12 Player”,”mediaTitle”:”56\”L, Outdoor, 12-Player Set”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”12-Player Set, Outdoor, 56\”L”,”colorGradient”:”#ffffff;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”140006,440001,600039,58003005″:{“id”:3757,”price”:”$149. 00″,”retailPrice”:”$149.00″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”In Stock”,”upc”:”17-919″,”uom”:”Set”,”externalId”:”17539″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-08-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/579/G-17919-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 36\”L Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Set – Indoor, 12-Player”,”mediaTitle”:”36\”L, Indoor, 12-Player Set”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”12-Player Set, Indoor, 36\”L”,”colorGradient”:”#ffffff;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”1400085,440001,600039,100064″:{“id”:3759,”price”:”$14.95″,”retailPrice”:”$14.95″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”In Stock”,”upc”:”17-921″,”uom”:”Ea”,”externalId”:”17540″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-08-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/581/G-17921-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 36\”L Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Stick – Red”,”mediaTitle”:”36\”L, Indoor, Individual Stick, Red”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”Individual Stick, Indoor, 36\”L, Red Blade”,”colorGradient”:”#ef3725;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”140006,440002,600042,58003005″:{“id”:3754,”price”:”$205. 00″,”retailPrice”:”$205.00″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”In Stock”,”upc”:”17-559″,”uom”:”Set”,”externalId”:”16648″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-08-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/474/G-17559-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Sheild 47\”L Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Set – Outdoor, 12-Player”,”mediaTitle”:”47\”L, Outdoor, 12-Player Set”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”12-Player Set, Outdoor, 47\”L”,”colorGradient”:”#ffffff;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”1400085,440001,600039,10005″:{“id”:3760,”price”:”$14.95″,”retailPrice”:”$14.95″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”In Stock”,”upc”:”17-922″,”uom”:”Ea”,”externalId”:”17541″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-08-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/585/G-17922-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 36\”L Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Stick – Blue”,”mediaTitle”:”36\”L, Indoor, Individual Stick, Blue”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”Individual Stick, Indoor, 36\”L, Blue Blade”,”colorGradient”:”#000099;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”1400085,440001,600042,100064″:{“id”:3752,”price”:”$21. 95″,”retailPrice”:”$21.95″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”In Stock”,”upc”:”17-557″,”uom”:”Ea”,”externalId”:”17095″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-08-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/472/G-17557-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 47\”L Wood -Shaft Hockey Stick – Red Blade”,”mediaTitle”:”47\”L, Indoor, Individual Stick, Red”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”Individual Stick, Indoor, 47\”L, Red Blade”,”colorGradient”:”#ef3725;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”140007,440001,600040,58003005″:{“id”:3743,”price”:”$209.00″,”retailPrice”:”$209.00″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”In Stock”,”upc”:”10-188″,”uom”:”Set”,”externalId”:”16645″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-08-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/335/G-10188-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 42\”L Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Set – Indoor, 14-Player”,”mediaTitle”:”42\”L, Indoor, 14-Player Set”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”14-Player Set, Indoor, 42\”L”,”colorGradient”:”#ffffff;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”1400085,440001,600040,10005″:{“id”:3748,”price”:”$20. 95″,”retailPrice”:”$20.95″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”In Stock”,”upc”:”17-077″,”uom”:”Ea”,”externalId”:”13518″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-08-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/390/G-17077-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 42\”L Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Stick – Blue”,”mediaTitle”:”42\”L, Indoor, Individual Stick, Blue”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”Individual Stick, Indoor, 42\”L, Blue Blade”,”colorGradient”:”#000099;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”},”140006,440001,600040,58003005″:{“id”:3755,”price”:”$175.00″,”retailPrice”:”$175.00″,”salePrice”:”Not Available”,”stockStatus”:”In Stock”,”upc”:”17-562″,”uom”:”Set”,”externalId”:”16643″,”shipDisplayDate”:”12-08-2021″,”mediaUrl”:”/cmsstatic/img/475/G-17562-ShieldWood-ShaftHockeySets-clean.jpg”,”mediaAlt”:”Shield 42\”L Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Set – Indoor, 12 Player”,”mediaTitle”:”42\”L, Indoor, 12-Player Set”,”mediaTags”:””,”name”:”12-Player Set, Indoor, 42\”L”,”colorGradient”:”#ffffff;”,”dateFormat”:”MM-dd-yyyy”}}

To determine the correct size stick, stand with the stick in front of you with the blade on the floor. The butt end of the stick should reach your chin. Typical stick lengths and age ranges are as follows: 30″L Stick Early Elementary 36″L Stick Elementary 42″-45″L Stick Middle School/Junior High 47″-60″L Stick Senior High/College Choose from the following shaft materials.
Wood Shaft
	Stronger and more durable than plastic, with a traditional hockey stick feel. Heavier than other materials and the least flexible. For intermediate and advanced players.
Aluminum Shaft
	Much stronger and more durable than plastic or wood for intense play. Lightweight for easy handling with minimal flexibility. For intermediate and advanced players.
Fiberglass Shaft
	Our most durable stick feels and plays like a traditional hockey stick. Nearly as lightweight as aluminum, with limited flexibility. For intermediate and advanced players.
Plastic Shaft (dowel)
	Reinforced for increased strength and durability. Still lightweight, but more rigid than the hollow shaft. For all levels of play.
Plastic Shaft (hollow)
	Lightweight and very flexible for good control. For beginners.

Hex	“Positive” pyramids	“Negative” pyramids	Spiral

& Dcy; & vcy; & ocy; & jcy; & ncy; & acy; & yacy; & dcy; & rcy; & ocy; & bcy; & icy; & lcy; & kcy; & acy; & vcy; & acy; & lcy; & acy; & ocy; & scy; & ucy; & shchcy; & iecy; & scy; & tcy; vcy; & lcy; & yacy; & iecy; & tcy; & scy; yacy; & chcy; & iecy; & rcy; & iecy; & zcy; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & rcy; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & rcy; & comma; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & rcy; & ycy; & vcy; & acy; & icy; & scy; & zhcy; & acy; & vcy; & comma; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & ucy; & mcy; & iecy; & ncy; & softcy; & shcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; yacy; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & mcy; & iecy; & rcy; & acy; & scy; & ycy; & rcy; & softcy; & scy; & ycy; & vcy; & ycy; & khcy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & acy; & lcy; & ocy; & vcy; & period;

& Dcy; & rcy; & iecy; & vcy; & iecy; & scy; & icy; & ncy; & acy; & sol; & bcy; & acy; & mcy; & bcy; & ucy; & kcy; & ocy; & vcy; & ycy; & jcy; & pcy; & lcy; & ocy; & dcy; & rcy; & ocy; & bcy; & icy; & lcy; & kcy; & acy; & tcy; & acy; & kcy; & zhcy; & iecy; & mcy; & ocy; & gcy; & ucy; & tcy; & bcy; & ycy; & tcy; & tcy; & bcy; & ycy; & tcy; & tcy; & vcy; & ycy; & tcy; & tcy; & vcy; & ycy; & tcy; & tcy; & vcy; & ycy; & vcy; & acy; & ncy; & ycy; & dcy; & iecy; & rcy; & iecy; vcy; yacy; & ncy; & ncy; & ycy; & jcy; & pcy; & ycy; & dcy; & dcy; & ocy; & ncy; & icy; & pcy; & rcy; & iecy; & pcy; & rcy; & iecy; & ncy; & acy; & zcy; & ncy; & acy; & chcy; & iecy; & ncy; & acy; & dcy; & lcy; yacy; & icy; & zcy; & mcy; & iecy; & lcy; softcy; & chcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & kcy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & kcy; & ncy & scy; & kcy; & ocy; & vcy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & lcy; & lcy; & acy; & icy; & zcy; & acy; & lcy; & yucy; & mcy; & icy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & comma; & pcy; & ocy; & dcy; & khcy; & ocy; & dcy; & icy; & tcy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; vcy; & scy; & iecy; & khcy; vcy; & icy; & dcy; & ocy; & vcy; & bcy; & ocy; & lcy; & softcy & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & ocy; & bcy; & hardcy; & iecy; & mcy; & acy; & comma; & scy; & lcy; & ocy; & mcy; & acy; & ncy; & ncy; & ycy; & khcy; & ncy; & zhcy; & mcy; & icy; & tcy; & iecy; & bcy; & lcy; & ocy; & kcy; & icy; & rcy; & ocy; & vcy & tcy; & softcy; & icy; & lcy; & icy; & ncy; & iecy; & ncy; & acy; & zhcy; & acy; & tcy; & softcy; & kcy; & ncy; & ocy; & pcy; & kcy; & ucy; & bcy; & lcy; & ocy; & kcys; & acy; & icy; & lcy; & icy; & ncy; & dcy; & rcy; & ocy; & vcy; & icy; & zcy; & lcy; & yucy; & mcy; & icy; & ncy; & icy; & iecy; & vcy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & scy; & pcy; & acy; & vcy; & acy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & lcy; & acy; & comma; & icy; & mcy; & iecy; & iecy; & tcy; & pcy; & rcy; & iecy; & icy; & mcy; & ucy; & shchcy; & iecy; & scy; & tcy; vcy; acy; & iecy; & dcy; & icy; & ncy; & ocy; & ocy; & bcy; & acy; & zcy; & ncy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & vcy; & ycy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & ncy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & comma; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & mcy; & iecy; & rcy; & period; & Vcy; & ocy; & scy; & ncy; & ocy; & vcy; & ncy; & ocy; & mcy; & icy; & scy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; softcy; & z iecy; & ucy; & tcy; & scy; & yacy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & icy; & zcy; & mcy; & iecy; & softcy; & chcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & comma; & dcy; & rcy; & ocy; & bcy; & lcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & icy; & icy; & zcy; & mcy; & iecy; & lcy; softcy; & chcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & ocy; & tcy & ocy; & khcy; & ocy; & tcy; & khcy; & dcy; & ocy; & vcy; & icy; & zcy; & acy; & lcy; & yucy; & mcy; & icy; & ncy; & icy; yacy; & icy; & dcy; & rcy; & ucy; & gcy; & icy; & khcy; & dcy; & iecy; & tcy; & acy; & iecy; & jcy; & icy; & zcy; & acy; & lcy; & yucy; & mcy; & icy; & ncy; & icy; yacy; & period; & Vcy; & zcy; & acy; vcy; & icy; & scy; & icy; & mcy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & mcy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & ocy; & tcy; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & mcy; & iecy; & rcy; & acy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & acy; & lcy; & acy; & comma; & kcy; & lcy; & icy; & iecy; & ncy; & tcy; & mcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & iecy; & tcy; vcy; & ycy; & bcy; & rcy; & acy; & tcy; & softcy; & icy; & zcy; & lcy; & yucy; & mcy; & icy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & shcy; & icy; & ncy; & kcy; & ocy; & vcy; & kcy; & icy; & mcy; & acy; & shcy; & ncy; & ycy; & icy; & chcy; & iecy; & tcy; & ycy; & rcy; & iecy; & ocy; & scy; & icy; & acy; & lcy; & yucy; & mcy; & icy; & ncy; & icy; & iecy; & vcy; & ycy; & kh & acy; & mcy & shcy; & icy; & ncy; & ycy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & shcy; & icy; & ncy; & kcy; & ocy; & vcy; & kcy; & icy; & period;

& KHcy; & acy; & rcy; & acy; & kcy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & scy; & tcy; & icy; & kcy; & acy; & dcy; & rcy; & ocy; & bcy; & icy; & lcy; & k coloncy; & acy; & lcy; & k coloncy; & acy
1 & period; & Vcy; & ycy; & scy; & ocy; & kcy; & acy; & yacy; & ecy; & fcy; & fcy; & iecy; & kcy; & tcy; & icy; vcy; & ncy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & softcy; & pcy; & rcy ; & icy; & zcy; & vcy; & ocy; & dcy; & scy; & tcy; & vcy; & acy; & colon;
2 & period; & mcy; & iecy; & khcy; & acy; & ncy; & icy; & zcy; & icy; & rcy; & ocy; & vcy; & acy; & ncy; & ncy; & ycy; & khcy; & icy; & lcy; & icy; & acy; & v ocy; & mcy; & acy; & v ocy; & mcy; ; & acy; & tcy; & icy; & chcy; & iecy; & scy; & kcy; & yacy; & zcy; & gcy; & rcy; & ucy; & zcy; & kcy; & acy; & semi;
3 & period; & Vcy; & ycy; & scy; & ocy; & kcy; & acy; & yacy; & scy; & tcy; & iecy; & pcy; & iecy; & ncy; & softcy; & acy; & vcy; & tcy; & ocy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & icy; & zcy; & acy; & tscy; & icy; & icy; & period;

& Pcy; & rcy; & icy; & ncy; & tscy; & icy; & pcy; & colon;
& Pcy; & ocy; & dcy; & shcy; & icy; & pcy; & ncy; & icy; & kcy; & icy; & shcy; & pcy; & icy; & ncy; & dcy; & iecy; & lcy; & yacy; & scy; & ocy; & bcy; & ie & kcy; & icy ; & scy; & tcy; & ocy; & rcy; & ocy; & ncy; & chcy; & iecy; & rcy; & iecy; & zcy; vcy; & iecy; & dcy; & ucy; & shchcy; & icy; & jcy; & vcy; & acy; & lcy; & dcy; & vcy; & icy; & gcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & lcy; & yacy; & icy; & rcy; & iecy; & dcy; & ucy; & kcy; & tcy; & ocy; & rcy; & acy; & pcy; & ocy; & vcy; & ocy; & rcy; & ocy; & tcy; & ncy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; vcy; & iecy; & dcy; & ucy; & shchcy; & icy; & jcy; & vcy; & acy; & lcy; & pcy; & rcy; & icy; & vcy; & ocy; & dcy; & icy; & tcy; & vcy; & dcy; & iecy; & jcy; & scy; & tcy; & vcy; & icy; & iecy; & mcy; & iecy; & khcy; & acy; & ncy; & icy; & zcy; & mcy; & scy; & ocy; & scy; & pcy; & icy; & rcy; & acy; & softcy; & ncy; & ycy; & mcy; & icy; & ncy; & ocy; & zhcy; & icy; & comma; & ncy; & ocy; & zhcy; & icy; & ncy; & acy; & dcy; & vcy; & ucy; & khcy; & vcy; & acy; & lcy; & ocy; & vcy; & zcy; & acy; & tscy; & iecy; & pcy; & lcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; vcy; & mcy; & iecy; & scy; & tcy; & iecy; & comma; & scy; & tcy; & iecy; & mcy; & chcy; & tcy; & ocy; & bcy; & ycy; & ocy; & tcy; & ocy; & rcy; vcy; & acy; & tcy; & softcy; & comma; & scy; & ycy; & rcy; & softcy; & iecy; & vcy; & ycy; & khcy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & lcy; & lcy; & ocy; vcy; & icy; & pcy; & ocy; & vcy; & tcy; & ocy; & icy; & tcy; & softcy; & ecy; & tcy; & ocy; & tcy; & shcy; & acy; & gcy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & zcy; & acy; vcy; & iecy; & rcy; & shcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & ynacy; & ucy; & ncy; & icy; & ynacy; & ucy; & ncy & icy; & chcy; & tcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & period; & Ecy; & lcy; & iecy; & kcy; & tcy; & rcy; & ocy; & ncy; & ncy; & ocy; & iecy; & ucy; & pcy; & rcy; acy; vcy; & lcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & iecy; & dcy; & iecy; & tcy; & iecy; & dcy; & iecy; & tcy; & lcy; & icy; & icy; & mcy; & iecy; & iecy; & tcy; & ocy; & bcy; & rcy; & acy; & tcy; & ncy; & ucy; & yucy; & acy; & vcy; & tcy; & ocy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & icy; & chcy; & iecy; & scy; & kcy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & ucy; & rcy; & acy; & vcy; & lcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & ucy; & scy; & tcy; & rcy; & ocy; & jcy; & scy; & tcy; vcy; & acy; & mcy; & icy; & comma; & kcy; & ocy; & gcy; & dcy; & acy; & pcy; & ocy; & scy; & lcy; & ucy; & zhcy; & icy; & tcy; & softcy; & pcy; & iecy; & rcy; & iecy; & kcy; & acy; & rcy; & mcy; & lcy; & icy; & acy; & ncy; & icy; & iecy; & icy; & lcy; & icy; & scy; & ycy; & rcy; & softcy; & yacy; – & ecy; & tcy; & ocy; & scy; & lcy; & icy; & shcy; & kcy; & ocy; & mcy; & bcy; & ocy; ; & softcy; & shcy; & ocy; & iecy; & comma; & mcy; & acy; & shcy; & icy; & ncy; & acy; & bcy; & ucy; & dcy; & iecy; & tcy; & rcy; & acy; & bcy; & ocy; & tcy; & acy; & tcy; & softcy; vcy; & pcy; & iecy; & rcy; & iecy; vcy; & iecy; & rcy; & ncy; & ucy; & tcy; & ocy; & mcy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & zhcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & icy; & icy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & acy; & ncy; & ocy; & vcy; & kcy; & icy; & comma; & vcy; & ocy; & icy; & zcy; & bcy; & iecy; & zhcy; & acy; & ncy; & icy; & iecy; & pcy; & ocy; vcy; & rcy; & iecy; & zhcy; & dcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & d & scy; & icy & kcy; & ocy; & vcy; & ycy; & khcy; & ncy; & ocy; & zhcy; & iecy; & jcy; & icy; & lcy; & icy; & mcy; & ocy; & tcy; & ocy; & rcy; & acy; & period; & CHcy; & tcy; & ocy; & bcy; & ycy; & pcy; & ocy; & vcy; & ycy; & scy; & icy; & tcy; & softcy; & scy; & rcy; & ocy; & kcy; & scy; & lcy; & ucy; & zhcy; & bcy; & ycy; & icy; & bcy; & ycy; & icy; & ocy; & zcy; & mcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & ncy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & icy; & comma; & vcy; & iecy; & dcy; & ucy; & shchcy; & icy; & jcy; vcy; & acy; & lcy; & scy; & pcy; & ocy; & mcy; & ocy; & shchcy; & softcy; & yucy; & ocy; & bcy; & rcy; & acy; & bcy; & rcy; & acy; & bcy; & bcy; & rcy; & acy; & bcy; & kcy; & icy; & dcy; & acy; & ncy; & ncy; & ycy; & khcy; & icy; & scy; & icy; & scy; & tcy; & iecy; & mcy; & ycy; & kcy; & ocy; & ncy; & dcy; & icy; & tscy; & icy; & ocy; & ncy; & icy; & rcy; & ocy; & vcy; & acy; & ncy; & icy; & vcy; & ocy; & zcy; & dcy; & ucy; & khcy; & acy; & scy; & pcy; & ocy; & mcy; & ocy; & shchcy; & softcy; & yucy; vcy; & ycy; & scy; & ocy; & kcy; & ocy; & kcy; & ocy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & & chcy; & iecy; & scy; & tcy; & vcy; & acy; & icy; & mcy; & pcy; & ocy; & rcy; & tcy; & icy; & rcy; & ucy; & iecy; & mcy; & ycy; & khcy; & ncy; & ocy; & zhcy; & ie & jcy;

	& Mcy; & ocy; & dcy; & iecy; & lcy; & softcy;	& Mcy; & ocy; & shchcy; & ncy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & softcy; & lpar; & Kcy; & Vcy; & Tcy; & rpar;	& IEcy; & mcy; & kcy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & softcy; & lpar; & kcy; & gcy; & sol; & chcy; & rpar;	Quatity & ncy; & ocy; & zhcy; & iecy; & jcy;	& rcy; & acy; & zcy; & mcy; & iecy; & rcy; & ncy; & acy; vcy; & khcy; & ocy; & dcy; & iecy; & lpar; & mcy; & mcy; & rpar;
& Ncy; & ocy; & zhcy; & icy; & dcy; & icy; & acy; & mcy; & iecy; & tcy; & rcy; & ocy; & mcy; Φ200 & ast; 20	FM-500	7 & period; 5-11	400-600	20	800 & ast; 600
	FM-600	7 & period; 5-11	500- 800	22	800 & ast; 600
	FM-800	11 & ast; 2	600 – 1000	30	1000 & ast; 800
	FM-100	15 & ast; 2	700- 1200	30	1200 & ast; 800
& Ncy; & ocy; & zhcy; & icy; & dcy; & icy; & acy; & mcy; & iecy; & tcy; & rcy; & ocy; & mcy; Φ200 & ast; 20	FM-800	15 & ast; 2	800-1200	24	800 & ast; 1200
	& CHcy; & mcy; -1000	22 & ast; 2	1000 – 1500	30	1000 & ast; 1500
	& CHcy; & mcy; -1200	22 & ast; 2	1500-2000	36	1500 & ast; 1800
	& CHcy; & mcy; -1500	30 & ast; 2	2000-2500	48	1500 & ast; 2000
& Ncy; & ocy; & zhcy; & icy; & dcy; & icy; & acy; & mcy; & iecy; & tcy; & rcy; & ocy; & mcy; Φ400 & ast; 40	FM-800	15 & ast; 2	1000 – 1500	18	800 & ast; 1200
	& CHcy; & mcy; -1000	30 & ast; 2	1500 -2000	22	1000 & ast; 1500
	& CHcy; & mcy; -1200	45 & ast; 2	2000-3000	28	1500 & ast; 2000
	& CHcy; & mcy; -1500	55 & ast; 2	2500 – 3500	36	1500 & ast; 2000

The knife shaft (Fig. 1, a) is made of steel. Its design provides for the possibility of fixing knives on it and giving them a rotational motion. The middle part of the shaft is made thicker with grooves to accommodate knives and devices for their fastening. On both sides of the thickened part there are journals with which the shaft is installed in the bearings. A pulley is attached to one end of the shaft to transmit rotational motion. Often, instead of a pulley, a half-coupling is installed to directly connect the knife shaft to the motor shaft.In this case, the axis of the motor shaft must be aligned with the axis of the cutter shaft.

In the thicknessing machines SR6-8, flat sickle-shaped knives are placed on the knife shaft (Fig. 1, b), the cutting edges of which are located on the cylindrical surface of the shaft along helical lines. The knife shaft with such knives is characterized by smooth operation, since the working part of the cutting edge has the least (almost constant in time) contact with the wood being processed. The surface processed with such knives has a high roughness class.

Knife shafts make 6,000 or more revolutions per minute, so the shafts and knives are balanced so that the centers of gravity of two knives installed on opposite sides of the shaft are equally distant from the axis of rotation. Otherwise, the emergence of unbalanced centrifugal forces is inevitable, causing strong vibrations, which leads to a deterioration in the quality of processing and to the breakdown of machine elements.

Fig. 2, c shows a more perfect method for attaching knives.Here, clamp each knife with an insert, I use two wedges and a wedge using a screw. The screw when tightening it is torus. with a wrench moves the wedge, which is accompanied by the movement of the wedges towards the knife, which create the required pressure on the insert. To remove the knife and replace it with another, you need to unscrew the screw. To set the knife in height, there are screws (see Fig. 2, a) with clamps located in special grooves in the shaft, or springs (see Fig. 2, b).

The history of the city and the fortress is the history of the conquest of these lands by the Romans. After the war with the Dacians (1st century AD), the Romans began building a military camp (lat. Castrum) on the territory of the present fortress. Camp XIII Paired Legion (lat.Legio XIII Gemina Pia Fidelis), which participated in the wars against the Dacians, was formerly called Apulum and occupied an area in 21 AD

During the predominance of the Slavs in Transylvania (IX-XI centuries.) the city began to be called in medieval sources under the Slavic names Balgrad or Belgrade. In 953, the Hungarian governor of the city of Zhombor (Zsombor) was baptized in Balgrad under the name Julius. Since the XI century. Balgrad is part of the Kingdom of Hungary. In Latin, the city was called Alba Iulia (Alba Iulia, first mentioned in this form in 1097).

There is an equestrian statue and a bas-relief dedicated to Mihai the Brave, who was able to unite three Romanian principalities here in Alba Iulia in 1600: Transylvania, Moldavia and Wallachia; an obelisk in memory of the leaders of the peasant uprising of 1784, Chorea, Kloski and Krisan, who were executed in 1785 in the Habsburg Empire; Custozza monument, dedicated to the soldiers of the 50th Regiment who died in Italy at the Battle of Custozza in 1866

Forrester Wood Shafts – Home

A Comparison of Swab Handle Materials

Custom Swab Handles and Shafts

The Art of Making Shafts

We harvest all of our own arrow bolts in the Pacific Northwest from properties owned by our families.

The bolts are then put inside our milling facility to dry. Once dried down to a certain moisture content, they are then run through a Baker resaw/bandsaw where they are cut down into 2″ planks for easy handling.

Then they will be moved into a state of the art dehumidification kiln to be brought down to the right moisture content. We will then move them to a room with big fans and room temperature to set for 2-3 weeks to stabilize.

Then we take the board to the jointer and joint down to that line, to line up the grain. The grain will be checked several times in the next couple phases to make sure the grain stays straight on the board.

Once we are done gangsawing all of our wood into smaller planks, it is then taken to the bandsaw where it is turned into squares.

Thank you faithful customers for your patience with us and our wood,

Dan, Wapiti Archery POC

The Evolution of the Golf Club

The Evolution of the Golf Club

Club Monikers: Then and Now

Hickory Golf Shaft (or Making a Tapered Dowel)

Hickory Golf Club Repair: Wooden Shaft Maintenance

Shield Wood-Shaft Floor Hockey Set

You’re Covered When You Buy From Gopher

Reviews

Glue rolls

Application Rolls

Raster production options

Double Shafts Wood / Bamboo Raft Crushing Machine

Wooden doors ? Petrov Val

Advertising:

Read more:

Related articles:

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Related Stories

You may have missed