Stringing Pattern Theory | Universal Lacrosse Blog
We talked performance mesh and their differences in a previous post, but what good is mesh if you can’t string up a stick that works best for you? Stringing is a tedious task that takes a lot of practice to get good at, but once you do, it becomes a breeze. So the first thing you want to do is prepare the mesh. Most, if not all mesh comes packaged and not stretched out. Find the 9 diamond row on top and start stretching out the mesh. Don’t be afraid to really pull it apart it wont break. Then fold that top 9 diamond row over the second 9 diamond row. This creates an overlap so the topstring can lock down the mesh to the head.
For instructions on how to actually do a topstring, ECD has great tutorials on their youtube channel.
So now that your topstring is installed, its time to move to the most daunting part of the stick, the sidewalls. Every knot does a different thing and there are a lot of knots that can be used. The most popular being the interlock, the knot, and the special interlock. These 3 knots are used to pull the mesh down tightly creating the channel. Depending on the head, you should also skip sidewall holes (1 or 2 max) to ensure that there will be a channel in your stick.
Pocket placement all depends on where you start bunching up your mesh. Use knots such as a 1 or a 2 to start creating your pocket. This allows for a more shift pocket because no piece of mesh is locked down to the sidewall. Depending on how much whip and hold you like, you should only interlock 2 or 3 times so the channel is not so tight that it catches the ball and causes it to throw down. Whip relies on pocket placement, channel width, and shooter setup. I like to think of whip as the ramp the ball will take to get out of the head. The steeper the more whip. A low pocket tends to have less whip than a high pocket. Whip is all preference and I personally find that a lot of it is annoying. I like to get a little lazy on my passes sometimes and need to get rid of the ball quickly so i find that if I don’t get my hands back as far as possible, the ball comes out late and low.
Lastly the shooting strings. These matter. Now with all the rule changes they are starting to matter less, but just make sure if you’re using the 2 across setup, your stick has a nice tight channel. People think because there is no U holding the ball in place the straights are bad, but if the channel is tight enough, it will hold the ball right where it needs to be. 2 Across and a nylon is my favorite setup because it lets the ball out nice and smooth in the beginning then snaps off the nylon a little which I like the feeling of.
Stringing Theory: Angle Whip and Time Whip
(Graphic courtesy of StringKing Lacrosse)
By Michael Culshaw-Maurer
Any lacrosse player, stringer or not, knows two fundamental terms that are used to describe pockets: whip and hold. You pick up a stick, cradle around a little bit, try a toe pull, fail miserably, and blame it on the lack of hold. You have a toss with it, throw the ball ten feet over your buddy’s head, and then complain about how little whip it has. Every single lacrosse player has — at one time or another — attempted to explain whip or hold. Everyone has their own ideas regarding those terms, but it seems like everyone has a way to get vice grip hold with almost no whip.
This phenomenon is seen in the Stick Doctor’s Lounge on the Inside Lacrosse Forums with the use of whip/hold scales. When stringers post pictures of their newly strung sticks, they will often include a phrase like, “It has 7/10 hold and 4/10 whip.” This is a reasonable approximation. However, problems arise when people start claiming their pockets have 9/10 hold and 2/10 whip. Nobody believes this is possible, and most of the time, it isn’t. The problem with whip and hold scales is that they are based on the judgment of one person, and will usually reflect that person’s whip and hold preferences.
Before we get deeper into this topic, please keep in mind that a lot of this might be tougher to grasp for novice stringers. However, for intermediate to advanced stringers, this will be very helpful in reaching new levels of stringing analysis and application. I’m going to look at very fundamental parts of how a pocket acts; how to adjust these aspects is up to the stringer. I will tell you about how the tightness of a channel affects whip and hold, but I won’t take the time to tell you how to tighten a channel.
The fundamental concept in my theory is that whip comes in two forms: angle whip and time whip.
Angle whip comes from the angle at which the ball exits the stick. I like to think of this being relative to the angle the scoop is pointing at the point of release. A high pocket will have a lot of angle whip, since the extreme angle of the “ramp” of the pocket will cause the ball to exit the stick at a lower angle. Since a low pocket has a much more gradual “ramp,” the angle whip on a low pocket will be less. Most people have a fairly solid grasp of this concept, and many will only consider this when considering the whip in a stick. However, we can’t forget about time whip.
Time whip is caused by the amount of time it takes to for the ball to exit the stick. When, in a typical throwing motion, does the ball release? If you think about time whip in low and high pockets, it is actually the inverse of angle whip. In a higher pocket, the ball has less distance to roll and can, in some cases, exit the stick more quickly. In a lower pocket, the ball has to travel a greater distance to exit the stick, and it will take longer to release.
As you might be able to see, this creates a bit of a balancing act. A high pocket might release the ball quickly, but it will be at a lower angle. A low pocket might take longer to release the ball, but it will be at a higher angle. Theoretically, you could balance these two variables out and have a stick that throws to the same point, although the two releases would feel drastically different.
A channel primarily creates time whip, as the pinching of the ball by the pocket creates friction, causing the ball to roll out of the head less readily. This makes the release take slightly longer, resulting in time whip. In most cases, it doesn’t create any angle whip, as it doesn’t affect the actual angle the ball exits the head.
What really starts to get tricky is the fact that pockets shift. Think about a low pocket with a fairly soft mesh that shifts upwards during the throwing motion. Shifting will increase both angle whip and time whip. The low pocket essentially changes into a mid pocket, making the ball release at a sharper angle. Additionally, when the pocket shifts, the ball isn’t really rolling, meaning the time of release is getting delayed, increasing time whip.
Angle and time whip are two very simple, basic concepts, but work in many aspects of a pocket. You can look at the size of mesh holes, the hardness of the mesh, the shape of the pocket, how much the pocket shifts, how tight the channel is, how tight the top of the mesh is strung, how tight the shooters are, what shape the shooters are… The list goes on and on. Every aspect of a pocket can be analyzed to see how it will affect time whip and angle whip. If you can keep these two concepts in your head while stringing a certain part of a stick, you can accurately judge and tweak the amount of whip a stick has.
At this point, you might be wondering just where hold comes into this. Hold can be judged a couple different ways. Some people like the “roll test,” which is simply seeing how far you can tilt the stick before the ball rolls out. If we are talking about hold as far as throwing fakes or the “roll test,” then it is almost directly linked to whip. If the ball exits at a sharper angle (angle whip), then there is a greater angle the stick can be tipped to until the ball will exit. Similarly, if the ball must travel further to exit the stick (time whip), then the ball can roll further before exiting, affecting the “roll test.”
However, besides throwing fakes, hold is really more of a ball-retention concept. If the ball stays in your stick more readily, then your stick has more hold. This view of hold is more closely tied to time whip than anything else. If the ball exits the stick quickly and readily (low time whip) then the stick probably doesn’t have very much hold. If the ball is unwilling to exit the stick and takes longer to do so (high time whip), then the stick will have better hold. This is one of the main reasons many players like a tight channel; a tightly channeled pocket can increase time whip and therefore hold, without increasing angle whip.
Of course, you must consider the fact that the ball is often being moved much more quickly in a very specific direction while being thrown than when being cradled or faked. This is why there is really no perfectly linear scale. Let’s take a channel, for example. When throwing the ball with force, the ball can often cause the channel to decompress, allowing the ball to roll out with less effort. When throwing a fake or cradling, the ball moves into the channel with less force, causing the channel to remain firm and retain the ball.
I have one last point, just a debunking of a fairly common stringing myth. Regardless of what people might say, shooters ultimately do not dictate how a pocket performs. I use this analogy: sidewalls are like physically pointing a rifle, and shooters are like the scope. If you point a rifle at the ground, it doesn’t matter what you do with the scope, it’s still going to shoot at the ground. If you point it to the left, you’re going to shoot to the left. However, if you get it pointed in the general direction of the target, you can use the scope to get perfectly dialed in.
So there you have it: you now know about angle whip and time whip, how they relate to hold, and how to think about them while stringing. Remember, whip and hold are relative, so scales typically don’t convey true whip and hold very well. However, if you can analyze the different aspects of a pocket and how they affect angle whip, time whip, and hold, you can accurately determine the way a stick will perform, and you can better tweak a pocket to fit your needs.
Lacrosse Knots | laxrat
When stringing a lacrosse stick, all you really need to know how to do is create knots. The entire stick is basically made up of different kinds of knots that tie the mesh down to the plastic of the head. You knot certain mesh holes to specific sidewall holes when stringing. Some of the more common knots are shown below.
The interlock is probably the most basic knot you will learn when stringing sticks. This knot is the base for many types of top strings and other knots. Use a knot like this to pull the mesh down tighty to the plastic. This helps to create a channel in your stick. It is very common for people to interlock a few times when one first begins. I recommend this knot for beginners.
The Si knot is a more complicated compared to the interlock knot. The Si knot is recommened when you are trying to pull the mesh down very tightly to your head. Like the interlock knot, this is a common knot to start out with when you are first getting your sidewall pattern set up. This knot is recommended for those who have some stringing experience.
The 1, 2, 3 knots have many different names and are sometimes called singles, doubling up, and tripling up, to name a few. These knots are used to start to form the pocket in your stick and are formed by bunching up a number of mesh holes onto one sidewall hole. The number of mesh holes bunched up depends on the number of knots. These knots are recommended for beginners.
Stacked Si Knot
The Stacked Si Knot is another type of knot that is commonly used when trying to form your sticks’ pocket. This is the most complicated of the knots shown on the site. This knot involves stacking mesh holes on top of one other, and then linking those stacked diamonds to a single sidewall hole. This type is recommended for those who have mastered the 1,2,3 knots and are close to becoming an advanced stringer.
Different Types of Lacrosse Mesh
When it comes to lacrosse sticks, every player has his own specifications. Every aspect of the stick- from what color it is to how wide the head opening is -is tweaked based on a players personal preference. The first step in building your individualized stick begins with choosing which mesh you want: hard mesh, soft mesh or traditional? Here we lay out the pros and cons respectively because they differ greatly from each other; after all, not everyone has access to everything! For example those with money can use expensive materials like carbon fiber or titanium steel while others might only be able to afford aluminum alloy but both are still equally useful –
5 Types of Lacrosse Mesh
1. Hard Mesh
Hard mesh has a reputation for being an excellent pocket. It’s like wine – the longer it ages, the better it gets! I’ve observed that Hard Mesh can be used over and over again with only new strings each time because of how long-lasting this material is. There are even some professional players who use Hard Mesh on their sticks year round without replacing either string or head as they play in order to maximize performance regardless of weather conditions!
Hard Mesh is a great choice for players who have some experience with the game. This mesh takes time to break in and requires skill to use, but it’s worth persisting because experienced Hard Mesh users will always be on top of their play level while also having an incredibly durable piece that won’t wear out over extended periods of intense gameplay.
Snow, rain or varying weather can wreck havoc on your gear. If you’re playing field lacrosse and don’t want to deal with the hassle of swapping out mesh during a game just buy Hard Mesh so it won’t be destroyed by Mother Nature’s cruel intentions!
Players should go with Hard Mesh if they’re a strong dodger, feeder, outside shooter or need consistency because that’s what will help them play at their best.
Hard mesh can sometimes clog up in a player’s stick and cause the ball to be difficult to pass.
You may have heard that mesh is hard to break in and can be difficult for players, but the reality of it all is that when you’re going up against a defensive team who’s doing their best just to make your life miserable, having control over every little thing on offense becomes important. The harder pocket will keep the ball from slipping around so much inside your stick while also giving you more confidence because there are less chances of passing or shooting too early without knowing where exactly they’ll go.
Hard Mesh can be a difficult surface for many players to master because it doesn’t have the “give” Soft mesh has. For those who are more experienced, this is less of an issue and may even provide some benefits such as being able to string your pocket tight against other surfaces without worry about slipping out like with soft meshes.
2. Soft Mesh
The reason for using Soft Mesh is that it comes out of the package ready to string and play with because it’s easy to manipulate. Unlike other styles, this type has a softer feel than others which makes you more comfortable when playing goalie or shooting on net-minders trying their best not let in any pucks.
Soft Mesh provides the perfect feel for a lacrosse stick to help you become an offensive threat. Unlike hard mesh, Soft Mesh will encourage fakes and give your hands more comfort on the ball so that handling becomes easier. If you’re tired of being called out by defenders or having trouble with crisp passes then switch over to soft mesh!
Being a professional lacrosse player is tough. In order to be the best, you need all of the right equipment. That’s why it matters what kind of mesh your field lacrosse softball uses! A good offensive player should use Soft Mesh that has an output tone so they can play as well as possible on defense and finish with precision shots for their offense team mates in scoring position. Defensive players have more ball security when using this type because its consistency keeps them from dropping or mishandling it too often – making sure there are enough balls available at games during close scores can sometimes become difficult without having backup options like these around!
The idea of using Soft Mesh can be a great way to introduce young players the proper mechanics and fundamentals. By doing this now, they will have an easier time catching balls or cradling later on in their career.
Soft mesh is a dream for players who want to play right out of the package. Unlike hard-mesh, which takes time to break in and form into your hands properly, soft mesh has an added benefit: it’s ready when you take it off that shelf! You’ll be able to control the ball easier with this material because its fit will feel snug around your fingers from day one.
The best thing about soft mesh? It gets even better as you use it more often through multiple wash cycles and dryings – giving beginners just starting on their quest or experienced veterans looking for something new alike unbeatable performance at all levels of play while perfecting individual techniques like finger rolls or shooting a three pointer!
Soft mesh is the perfect go-to for box lacrosse enthusiasts looking to get a feel of what it’s like playing with traditional sticks. When you play, the soft mesh will shift and move as the ball moves in your stick–giving an amazing sense of control! Soft Mesh also has some downsides that should be considered before deciding if this material suits your needs: The “flimsy” quality means every player can always tell exactly where their balls are at all time but it could make passes difficult from one side or another (without making adjustments).
The difference in durability between hard and soft mesh is due to the treatment process. Soft lacrosse nets are usually left untreated, or barely treated with chemicals before they’re sold which means that there’s no coating on them. While this makes for a softer feel than other types of netting, it also means that these nets aren’t built to last outside.
Soft mesh is not the best choice for beginners because it will stretch out over time and require more maintenance to keep your stick in tip-top condition. Soft Mesh also does not retain its shape, which means that there will be a lot of shifting with this type of pocket. If you’re looking for consistency then I would recommend Hard Mesh or Performance Mesh instead!
3. Performance Mesh
StringKing’s innovative development in the world of lacrosse mesh is making it possible for manufacturers to produce high-quality equipment faster and cheaper. It was only a matter of time before other companies jumped on this innovation, claiming they were using performance mesh too. So what actually makes an item ‘performance’? Good question! Most items have been labeled as such based off their construction materials – but there isn’t really one concrete definition out there yet that we can rely on when purchasing gear from various brands alike.
Performance mesh, the latest trend in lacrosse equipment, is a term that doesn’t have much of an explanation. There’s not really any concrete definition to describe it so companies use performance mesh as “higher quality” material for their gear instead.
Performance Mesh is a great option for players who like their mesh hard or soft, but want to up the ante on quality. Made from superior materials and available in both styles of mesh, Performance Mesh really lets you optimize your game!
PerformanceMesh has been around for quite some time now so don’t be fooled by its relatively new name because it’s just as top-tier when it comes to performance as HardMeshes and SoftMeshes are. You can choose whichever style you prefer between all three types.
When mesh makers began experimenting with weather-resistant fibers to create a new style of performance equipment, they found that their attempts yielded more than just water resistant fabrics. They developed an innovative material called Performance Mesh that has since become dominant among athletes looking for durability no matter what position or playstyle.
Performance mesh may be a great material for stick protection and grip, but the hefty price of it discourages players from buying.
Performance Mesh can be hard to choose because there are so many different kinds that offer a range of benefits. It is important for players to do research before picking out the mesh, or else they could end up with something not quite right and have wasted their money on an expensive purchase!
4. 6 Diamond Lacrosse Mesh
The only lacrosse mesh that has a different number of diamonds on the row. Originally created for better functionality, it never yielded the benefits promised. The concept was great but had some flaws in execution at first because there were no other options like this and hard-soft combos are not ideal to keep good pocket placement when you need function from your gear set up
6 Diamond Mesh has a tighter knit than most other forms of mesh. Most standard Mesh comes with 10 diamonds per horizontal row and using bigger diamonds is meant to mimic traditional stringing. The tight weave allows for a much greater feel on the ball than more open meshes, which are often used by players who want their fingers close together while still having good finger control over the ball
A good grip should come naturally to any pool player. The larger diamonds on the ball provide a natural hold for your stick when it rests in your pocket, as well as some whip which helps you shoot consistently with power and accuracy. A tight channel isn’t necessary because of these features, but shooters must still be taught by someone who knows what they’re doing so that there’s no risk of over-whip or too little control during shots.
This mesh is so easy to break in because of the size. You can use it right away after stringing. 6 Diamond Mesh is easy to get used to because of the way it forms smaller diamonds, which makes handling easier than with other meshes on account of there being less mass between your hand and ball.
6 Diamond Mesh has a unique and unconventional appearance that is eye-catching for some players, but others avoid it because they can get the same desired result with mesh that doesn’t look as different.
The diamond-shaped holes in 6 Diamond Mesh make stringing this unusual material difficult if you are inexperienced or new to how many sidewall holes there are on each side of the diamonds.
5. Wax Lacrosse Mesh
Wax mesh provides a smoother grip which is essential for any lacrosse player. There are many different types of wax that can be used, the most common being microcrystalline and paraffin (refined or fully refined). The size typically ranges from 15 millimeters to 20 millimeter with the majority of players preferring larger sizes at around 18-19 mm in diameter.
The twenty-meter lacrosse mesh is a very rare and special find in the game, especially at younger levels. The larger diamond sizes make it tougher for beginners to string but provide great benefits when done right. I never really saw many players using 20mm wax mesh until college rolled around, which was where my love of these types of nets began as well!
Wax Mesh is the latest in a long line of innovations that have shaped and changed our game. Wax mesh has been around for decades, but it’s only just now starting to see significant playtime on professional courses because its use-cases are so diverse. Much like hard mesh before it, wax meshes can be used either as an alternative or complementary product depending on what you need out of your grip at any given time: if you’re looking for enhanced hold with less whip due to rain or other adverse conditions then go ahead and pick up some soft waxed masts.
One of the most overlooked aspects in lacrosse is being able to hold onto the ball better. Having a stronger grip on it means less turnovers and more chances for plays, but how? The mesh wax can make your shots faster because there’s resistance against it when shooting.
Stringing Wax Mesh is a tricky process that can be difficult to get right, but there are some issues with this material. First of all, it’s sticky and adheres to the sidewall in inconvenient ways after play-time. Adjustment post-game isn’t unusual for any string; however sticking mesh around your fingers or holding onto excess baggage means you need more upkeep!
What are the odds that wax mesh will improve your game? You might be a player trying to whip in as many shots and get around defenders quickly. But then again, maybe you’re just looking for something with a little more hold on it so you can keep up your stick when pasted against an opponent’s body. Either way, this article is going to help illuminate some of those murky details about what Wax Mesh provides or does not provide – all according to how players want their sticks!
You know when you feel like just letting go? Well, if that’s what you want to do and happen to play a lot of lacrosse, then don’t get wax mesh on your strings. It’ll make it much harder for all the muscles in your arm to let loose because there’s always this weird tension created by the stringing process-even without considering how tough it is on other parts of your body!
Help Stringing your Traditional Pockets
What is TRADiTREE? It is a tool to aid you in stringing a traditional lacrosse pocket in modern field heads. After you string the sidewall, TRADiTREE sits on the back of the head and holds the four leathers in place as you string the traditional pocket. It can be used for most any traditional pockets like:
* Single string Traditional
* Double Traditional
* X pockets
* O pockets
And the list goes on.
It takes the place of using a ball and butter knife or chopsticks. I used to use a wooden one but at times it was in the way and it held the leathers at the wrong angles. So, after a few different versions, I came up with the TRADiTREE.
You can see that the leather slots follow the angle of the ball. It is a true pocket form. The slots are at tangents to an official lacrosse ball size. After, you slide out the TRADiTREE and the ball sits perfectly where ever you placed the pocket.
You can place the TRADiTREE on the head for a High, Mid, or a Low pocket in your traditional string job.
HOW IT WORKS
Take any unstrung modern field head.
Install your sidewall string.
Install your leathers.
Then place TRADiTREE where you want the pocket to sit. High, Middle, or Low.
Then place the leathers in the “slots” and tighten them down.
Now begin stringing your crosslace.
You still have to adjust diamonds and placement, but not nearly as much as before.
Photos of the finish product.
So go to our Buy Now page TODAY and get your TRADiTREE
Pimp Your Stick – Mesh
Pimp Your Stick – StringKing Type 4 Mesh
The new standard for women’s lacrosse mesh. Designed to be softer and more responsive, Type 4 delivers better feel, more control, and faster shots.
- Feel – Women’s Type 4 lacrosse mesh is built softer and with an open channel to create a more responsive pocket for easier catching and better cradling.
- Control – Tri-Twist™ technology increases the texture and elasticity of Women’s Type 4 lacrosse mesh, which helps cushion and grip the ball to give you more control.
- Speed – Type 4 is a super-lightweight and aerodynamic women’s lacrosse mesh, which helps give you quicker hands and faster shots.
- Legal for International play.
Your design. Your stick!
UKLacrosse was the first to offer a fully customised women’s stick.
Using only the best materials, we will custom string your chosen head to your individual design style. We use only the best materials from StringKing, including the latest and most advanced Type 4 mesh, designed specifically for the women’s game.
You pick the head and shaft from the range available under the relevant section and then design and order your custom stringing here.
Simply choose the mesh and string colours you want. We’ll do the rest!
Alternatively, you may order restringing of your own head here, then remove your head from the shaft and send it to us in a box/padded parcel bag, and we’ll restring it for you.*
Please send the head to: UKLacrosse, Global House, Unit 12A, Adlington Business Park, Adlington, SK10 4NL
NB. Please include your name and order number along with your head.
Not sure what pocket type you need? Have any other questions? Call us before ordering for expert advice.
Get your stick strung by the best and see the difference!
NB. Heads are for illustrative purposes only, with all customised elements colour-coded, showing the types of pockets available.
This is a custom stringing service only. Heads must be purchased from the ‘Heads & Complete Sticks’ section or your current head sent to us for restringing.
We do not supply the restringing components.
*FIL rules state that any approved pocket may be strung in any approved head.
The Best Lacrosse Mesh in 2021
Are you planning to buy the best lacrosse mesh that perfectly suits your style of playing? You need to take a lot of factors into account to know whether you are going in the right direction or not. As manufacturers are introducing new items each day, finding the best product is no easy feat. This detailed buyer’s guide will certainly help you make the best purchase.What Are the Different Types of Lacrosse Mesh Available on the Market?Hard Mesh
Hard mesh is well-known for being a great pocket. It’s like wine: the longer it sits on the shelf, the better it becomes! Because of how long-lasting hard mesh is, it can be used over and over again with few visibile signs of wear and tear each time. There are professionals who don’t replace hard mesh to make them good to be used even in harsh weather conditions. If you want to reap such benefits, consider getting hard mesh.Soft Mesh
The soft mesh was chosen since it comes out of the packaging ready to string and play with, and it is simple to modify. Unlike other styles, this one has a softer feel to it, making it more pleasant to play goalkeeper or shoot at netminders who are doing their hardest not to let any pucks in.
Soft mesh, unlike hard mesh, encourages fakes and provides more comfort with the ball, making handling easier. Switch to soft mesh if you’re worried about getting called out by defenders or having problems making accurate passes.Performance Mesh
StringKing’s advancements in the lacrosse mesh realm allow producers to build high-quality equipment faster and at a lower cost. It was only a matter of time before other companies got on the performance mesh bandwagon and claimed to be employing it as well. So, what constitutes a ‘performance’ item? That’s an excellent question! The majority of things have been branded as such depend on their construction materials— but there isn’t really one clear definition out there yet that we can rely on when buying gear from different brands.6 Diamond Lacrosse Mesh
This is the only lacrosse mesh in which each row has a distinct number of diamonds. It was originally designed to improve functionality, however, it never delivered on its promises. The concept was wonderful, but the execution was lacking at first because there were no alternative options, and hard-soft combinations aren’t optimal for maintaining good pocket placement when you require utility from your gear setup.Wax Lacrosse Mesh
Wax mesh gives a more comfortable grip, which is crucial for lacrosse players. Wax comes in a variety of forms, the most prevalent of which being microcrystalline and paraffin (refined or fully refined). The size normally spans from 15 to 20 millimeters, with most players preferring larger sizes of roughly 18-19 millimeters in diameter.How to Choose the Best Lacrosse Mesh?
If you’re still having trouble deciding on the best lacrosse mesh after reading our list of the top 10 best lacrosse meshes, compare the elements below to the goods above. It can assist you in sorting out your options and finding the best option for you.
There are a few things to consider when looking for the best lacrosse mesh for you.Structure
Lacrosse players pay attention to the structure before purchasing because it affects the experience. Different structures are used to create different lacrosse meshes; for example, some have five layouts while others only have two. To acquire the function you want from the greatest lacrosse mesh, you should carefully examine the comprehensive details. After that, you’ll be able to make the greatest decision.Material
The material is another factor that influences the lacrosse experience. You’ll notice if the lacrosse mesh isn’t composed of high-quality materials by looking at its bounce, distance, and height when it flies. As a result, if you want to get the best lacrosse mesh, you need to pay attention to the materials it is composed of.Durability
You should think about how long the mesh will last. Its durability is poor if it dies after a single hit. Your enjoyment and performance will be harmed by the lacrosse mesh’s low durability, and so will your wallet. Save your game and your budget by investing in a durable and reliable mesh.What Are Some Key Considerations For Buying The Best Lacrosse Meshes?Type of Mesh
Before making a purchase, determine whether the mesh is soft, semi-soft, or firm.
The more experience you have, the easier it is to buy a pocket. It’s a good idea to try out a few different types first to get an idea for the feel of each one.Pattern
Another thing to think about is the net’s pattern. The holes are commonly diamond-shaped, but they come in a variety of sizes and configurations. You may also discover you have a preference when it comes to pattern, so keep an eye out for your favorite.Stringing
If this is your first time replacing the pocket on your stick, you’ll want to get a mesh that is easier to string. The more malleable the net, the easier it is to work with.Quality
The mesh must be of adequate quality. The manufacturers that made the products should have tested them. In the design phase, both the material and the construction should be carefully studied, and it may be reported on in the product’s description.Best Lacrosse Meshes FAQsWhat side of lacrosse mesh do you use?
The rough side of the lacrosse mesh is usually regarded as the front side. This is the side of the ball that makes contact with it. Some players, however, believe that this is a personal preference, as the rough side provides a greater grip while the smooth side provides a better release.Which lacrosse mesh is the best?
The ideal lacrosse mesh should have the right mix of elasticity and tension. It should be water-resistant and long-lasting so that it can last the entire season or even longer.
Coated strings, which are water-repellent and endure longer, are preferred by players. Semi-soft meshes are the best option since they provide the best pocket response and feel.Which lacrosse mesh is ideal for attackmen?
As an attacker, you need a lacrosse mesh that allows you to attack with precision and accuracy. As a result, you should go for a lacrosse mesh with high-quality shooters.
Many guitarists wonder which strings are best for their tuning. When choosing, remember that string tension and diameter preferences are a very individual thing.It is for this reason that you should not take the information from this material as an absolute truth: we will give the most generalized and averaged data, according to which you can choose the optimal thickness of the kit for your preferences.
For the convenience of reading this article, we will use integer notation for string widths (for example, 9-42 instead of 0.009-0.042).
Factors influencing the choice of string thickness
- Guitar Scale: The longer it is, the tighter the strings will be, all other things being equal.In the table below, we will assume a standard 25.5 “scale. If you own a guitar with a smaller scale, you will need to make some minor adjustments and use a thicker kit.
- String Tension: The thicker the strings are, the more tension they have – therefore, they have a more powerful and spacious sound. However, on the other hand, thicker strings have a lower vibration amplitude, which is why their sound is not so saturated with overtones, it is duller and flatter – this is especially audible on thin strings without winding.
- Third string: in most kits it is uncoiled (plain). In sets with a first string 12 or more thick, the third string is usually wound. In this case, it should be borne in mind that the braid increases the tension – you will have to forget about the bends by one and a half to two tones, although, on the other hand, in low tunings the third wound string sounds much fuller and richer.
- Today you can buy guitar strings in balanced sets (8-38, 9-42, 10-46, 11-50, 12-54, 13-56, etc.) and unbalanced (9-46, 10-52, 11-52, 12-56 / 60, etc.)
The first is usually used for standard tuning or tuning down all the strings by an equal number of semitones. The second type is ideal for those who like drop tunings (6 strings are lowered a full pitch), as well as for those who use hybrid and open guitar tunings.
- The thickest string sets (12-60, 13-72, etc.) are better suited for longer scale guitars – baritones. They have a scale of 26 inches or more, they are used in very low tunings (for example, Standart A and below).
In principle, similar kits can be used for instruments with a standard scale for deeply reduced tuning, but before buying a couple of nuances should be taken into account:
- You may simply not be able to adjust the scale on the bridge, as the lowered tuning requires reconfiguring it. In this case, either replacing the bridge or switching to a thinner kit will help.
- With a thicker set, you will either bore strings on the saddle or simply cannot fit strings in them.If you switch back to thinner strings, they will dangle in the bore grooves, making it difficult to fine-tune the guitar.
In addition, thick strings may not fit into the tuning peg – it will also have to be bored.
Which strings are suitable for a particular tuning
So, now is the time to publish a table of correspondence between guitar tuning and string width.
Matching string sets
8-38 is a specific set that is more suitable for experienced musicians.The very small diameter allows microbends to be made simply by pressing the strings harder against the frets (this is especially effective with a scalloped fretboard). Of the famous musicians, a fan of such a set is Yngwie Malmsteen
9-42 – suitable for a beginner musician, installed on all serial Fender guitars
10-46 – Probably the most popular caliber for standard tuning: the perfect balance between comfort and punch
9.5-44 – a compromise set for lovers of dynamic sound and frequent bending
11-50 – Favorite set of blues and non-heavy rock musicians: lets you rock the guitar tree at full power
12-54 – Suitable, for example, for guitars with voids inside the deck when playing jazz and blues.High tension
9-46 – similar to classic set 9-42 drop-action set
10-52 – analog of 10-46 kit for drop-system
10-50 – not a very popular set, which according to many musicians is more balanced for the drop and more pleasant to play than 10-52
10-60 – unbalanced set for heavy music players, used by Zakk Wilde
11-54 – bright and powerful sound when playing harmonic parts on low strings
11-56 – the most spacious and deepest sound, suitable for musicians with strong fingers
10-46 – Light bends, tension below average.For melodious lead parties
11-50 – perfectly balanced tension
12-54 – Above Average Tension: Every Bluesman’s Dream
13-56 – strong tension, deep and powerful tone
10-60 is a good choice for this tuning: 1-3 strings stretch well, low strings sound monolithic and deep
11-52 – minimum thickness for this tuning, tension below average
11-54 – drop C classic set
11-56 – enhanced sound of low strings, the difference is not always noticeable
12-54 – thicker high strings, more suitable for playing harmonic parts
12-60 – strong pull, good choice for heavy music with a minimum of lead parts
Standart C #
12-54 – perfect balance
13-56 – above average tension, more powerful sound
12-60 – classic set for this tuning
12-68 – Reinforced bass, powerful sounding rhythm parts
13-62 – classic set for this tuning
13-65 – tighter tension on bass strings
12-68 – medium tension, excellent balance
13-72 – High tension, powerful and deep sound, favorite choice for musicians performing death metal, sludge, doom metal
14-68 – medium tension, excellent balance
Helpful Hint: If you want to tune your guitar to B Standard or lower, then consider buying a baritone or 7-string guitar – you need to understand that not all types of 6-string electric guitars are designed for experiments with strong tuning down.
We repeat that these recommendations are conditional and partly subjective. Suffice it to recall the great SRV, which used the 13-56 kit for the Standart Eb tuning: therefore, the most important thing is your feelings. Try several different kits, experiment – and you will certainly find the best kit for your music!
Based on the article by Yegor Kalgannikov, 12.2013.
How to choose strings – types, calibers and brands
You brought your first instrument home, but it refuses to sound like a “firm”.The guitar builds, the tuning does not float, but there is no expressiveness in the sound. The thing about strings is a consumable that needs to be replaced regularly. Your new love could have spent more than one month with a salesman in a store, and the kit on it is, perhaps, still a factory one. Many potential buyers could have looked closely at this instrument and tried to play it. After each of them, dirt and grease from the fingers remains on the strings, this affects the sound.
You are about to solve the problem by buying a new kit, come to the nearest music store and fall into a stupor.Before you are different brands and thicknesses, different materials and prices – the eyes run up, and it is difficult to find something suitable. Especially if you don’t know what you are looking for. Let’s try to figure it out.
Contents of the article:
Strings come in a variety of thicknesses. Depending on the length of the scale (the distance from bridge to nut) and the scale in which you play, the tension will be different. The thicker they are, the more voluminous and dense they will give.There is also a downside, on such ropes it will be harder to play (for example, to make suspenders-bends), they give less overtones (overtones) and the sound comes out dimmer. The standard scale length is considered to be 25.5 “, there are shorter (for example,” wood floor “and short-scale guitars) and longer (baritone, bass, etc.). The string gauge is usually pronounced in whole numbers (10-50,11-52) , but denoted in thousandths (0.010-0.050) – this is the diameter of the first and last in the set, measured in inches Below are the most common thickness options, but there are also intermediate ones.
What strings are there
Conditionally “thin” sets are considered to be 8-38, 9-42, 10-46. The most popular is considered to be 10-46, and is suitable for most standard tunings without a strong drop.
• Why do you need thin strings and who will they fit?
1. They are easier to press against the neck of the guitar, so they are better suited for beginners .
2. On thinner strings it is easier to make bends, bluesmen and soloists usually choose them for this reason.
3. For brute-force play , their advantage is that there is a greater distance between them on the neck of the guitar. This is important when playing with your fingers.
An intermediate version between thin and thick strings – caliber 11-52 (medium). The sets 12-54 (medium heavy) are considered thicker, the third in them, most often, has a braid, like the three bass sets (the thickest). One of the thickest options is 12-56 (heavy). There are even more “large-caliber” kits, as well as hybrid ones, they are selected for a specific guitar tuning, desired tension and guitar sound.Particularly thick gauges may require boring of the bridge (s), nut or guitar tuners. Do you need such adventures, let’s figure it out further.
• Why use thick strings?
1. If you play with a strong attack , they will be better to keep in tune
2. If you use slide , thick strings are optimal for this
3. They are better suited for acoustic guitar , as they will be louder than when played without an amplifier
When choosing new strings for the first time, be guided by your feelings.Try to play on the factory strings that are already on the guitar when you buy. If you feel that the tension is too tight and the guitar is uncomfortable to play, use a thinner gauge. If the tension is too loose and the strings feel “like pasta,” try a thicker set. The standard factory set of strings for electric guitar is 9-42, for acoustics – 11-52, for bass 45-105. Remember that it will be hard to play the guitar in the beginning, and your fingers will ache, whichever strings and guitar you choose.But everything is learned in comparison, do not be afraid to experiment. The standard for most guitarists is hexagonal core and round wound strings.
How do I match the strings to my guitar?
Mi (Standart E)
For beginning musicians, the 9-42 set is the best option. It easily snuggles against the frets of the guitar. If you want more fullness, the 10-46 strings are great. Kits 11-48 (11-49; 11-50) will give you the opportunity to better “rock” the guitar tree and “add fat” – these strings are loved by bluesmen and fans of easy rock.A 12-50 gauge will give a very high tension and is suitable for semi-acoustic guitars and jazz performances. One of the most popular choices is Ernie Ball 2221 Regular Slinky.
The classic set for this tuning is the 9-46, in which the last string is slightly thicker for optimal tension and excellent sustain. 10-52 (or the more rare 10-50) – a slightly thicker set, it gives a good balance between sound density and ease of playing the guitar.For fans of heavier genres, there is a 10-60 set with a thickened sixth string, which gives more tension and density of attack. Kits 11-54 and 11-56 are suitable for those who are looking for a spacious and deep sound, but do not doubt the strength of their fingers.
Re (Standart D)
For a harmonious sound of lead parties and light bends, caliber 10-46 is suitable, and 11-50 will give more, but not too strong tension. 12-54 is good for blues in this scale. Kit 13-56 has good readability and a “bold” tone, but the string tension will not be strong.
A set with 10-60 thick low strings will give a deep tone and good string tension on the guitar. The 11-54 set is considered classic for this tuning.
C sharp (Standart C #)
The 12-54 set is considered ideal, for a thicker and deeper sound of the guitar you can try 12-56.
We recommend a 12-60 set with a thicker bottom and top strings, so you don’t have to artificially tidy up your attack.Kit 12-68 will give the guitar more density on rhythm parts in this tuning.
C (Standart B)
The classic set for this low tuning is 13-62, so that the strings do not dangle on the guitar and give a clear and powerful tone. 13-65 will give even more tension and a tighter sound to the rhythm parts.
The best balance for this tuning is 12-68. If you’re playing something experimentally heavy, try 13-72.
A (Standart A)
Thick kits (like 12-60 and 13-72, etc.) are best played on guitars with an extended scale 26 ” (baritones), which are ideal for this tuning.
Typical Electric Guitar Gauge Chart:
What material to choose the strings from and how the material of the strings affects the sound
Nylon is a synthetic material.Usually, nylon strings are inexpensive and are suitable for playing melodic strings and classical pieces. Nylon strings come in medium, strong and very strong tension. For brute force and light compositions, the first type is suitable, for more energetic compositions – the last two. It all depends on the dynamics of the game.
For thin rectified nylon strings, cores are often made of composite materials and carbon fiber. Nylon and carbon strings are primarily used on classical guitars.
Bronze strings are suitable for acoustic western guitars, they give a clear, bright sound. Such a kit will not work for electric guitars, the problem is in its magnetic properties.
Phosphor Bronze is similar in composition, but the alloy used for these strings is phosphorus. Strings made from this material give a warmer and softer sound. Many guitarists note that phosphor bronze kits unfold when brute-forcing. Used for acoustic guitar.
Nickel-plated steel core strings wear less frets and feel smoother. They are protected against corrosion and their sound is considered balanced. The core of these strings is made from steel and has magnetic properties suitable for electric guitars. At the moment, these strings are the most common for electric guitars. Pure nickel strings are softer and warmer.
Strings from steel have the brightest, sonorous and rich tone.They are made of a material that is resistant to corrosion, so they serve for a long time. Steel is a hard material that will eat up frets faster than nickel. Best suited for bass guitar.
Sets of brass have a bright and expressive timbre. They are used on electric guitars for playing in heavy directions, but are considered less durable than steel ones.
Strings with Silver Plated (Silver Plated) have long been considered the best for acoustic guitars.In fact, they sound muffled, have an average lifespan, but are not very expensive either.
String wrapping comes in a variety of shapes, usually on the three thickest strings, and in “large” sets the third from the bottom. The winding gives a tighter and more expressive sound with more overtones.
• Round winding
The round winding is considered the most balanced and reference.The strings with it give the sound familiar to the ear. Most guitarists use these kits. The disadvantages include noisy movement along the string when changing fingering, but often it not only does not interfere with the performance, but also adds beauty to the piece.
• Plain flat-wound strings
The benefits of smooth and flat wrapped strings are that your movements along the string will be less audible and your frets will retain their shape better. Also, smooth strings are more comfortable to play on the guitar.The disadvantage of the winding is that kits with it sound dull and less bright than strings in a round winding.
• Semicircular winding
This type of winding is a hybrid of the two previous ones. It wears out the frets a little less, but sounds more muffled and less expressive.
1. Strings Ernie Ball is recommended by many guitar teachers and guitar bloggers, but the brand offers a small variety of calibers and does not differ in democratic prices.String quality and durability are on par with most competitors. The most popular products from this brand are produced under the Slinky series. The Coated series is also a good choice, which provides the strings with extra oxidation protection. By the way, not so long ago – in 2019 – the Ernie Ball company expanded its line of strings for guitar, mainly electric guitar: about 10 new calibers were added to the assortment.
2. Elixir are renowned for their durability and strength.The strings of this brand are covered with a plastic film to help protect them from dirt and corrosion. The musicians note that “Elixirs” feel fresh and ringing for a long time, but their cost is appropriate, and you have to pay more for durability. Nanoweb strings are characterized as the most resistant to wear and corrosion. More recently, they have been replaced by the Optiweb series, which gives more natural tactile sensations when playing the guitar.
3. Strings D’Addario are very popular with guitarists and are sold in almost any music store.The brand produces sets of different calibers, from different materials and for different instruments, but strings for guitars are the most common. Most of the guitarists who use these strings are attracted by the democratic cost. The most common series of the D’Addario brand is Nickel Wound (EXL).
4. Brand Dunlop is better known for its guitar gadgets and accessories, but their guitar strings are also noteworthy. They are not inferior to other brands in the same price segment in terms of durability and quality.
5. The company Thomastik was founded in 1919 and became famous for the production of strings for violins and piano. Now the Austrians supply kits for guitars as well. The brand produces kits from different materials for classical guitars, acoustic guitars and electric guitars. Thomastik strings are used by Viktor Smolsky.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
• Metal or synthetic strings for a classic guitar?
Metal strings should not be placed on a classical guitar: their tension is much higher than that of nylon and carbon strings, you can crack the neck or fly off the stand on the soundboard.Even if the guitar doesn’t crack and the nut stays in place, the neck will bulge severely and this will make the guitar virtually unplayable. This is due to the fact that in classical guitars there is no metal rod for adjusting the neck deflection – the truss. Therefore, we recommend that you look for synthetic strings with the optimum tension for your playing.
• What are the best strings for acoustic guitar?
For acoustics, it is better to choose metal strings made of bronze or phosphor bronze.The former have a brighter tone, the latter will last longer, and also give the guitar sound a more velvety and rounded tone.
• What are the best strings for classical guitar?
Nylon or carbon kits are suitable for classical guitar. The latter are more difficult to find, they are more expensive, but their sound is considered closer to the reference. If you got the idea to put metal strings on a classical guitar, see the first question, there we explained in detail why it is not worth doing this .
• What are the best strings for electric guitar?
For an electric guitar, you can use steel, pure nickel, nickel-plated steel, or brass strings. The difference will be in tone, fret wear and string durability.
• What are the best strings for bass guitar?
Steel or nickel strings are suitable for bass guitars. The rest of the characteristics depend on your needs for sound and tone, as well as the instrument you are playing. Steel strings give more clang, which will not hurt when playing heavy music.
• Which strings are recommended by famous guitarists
How many guitarists, there are so many opinions, but Zakk Wilde’s favorite guitar caliber is 10-60 because of his powerful attack, Yngwie Malmsten considers the best thin Dean Markley 8-48, 8-46 for microbends on the guitar, James Hetfield from Metallica uses Ernie Ball 10-46 on his guitars, Marty Friedman on D’Addario Steels 10-52, Paul Gilbert on his Ernie Ball 9-42 to play his signature blues bands.
• Advice. For quick winding of strings on your guitar, a tuning machine is perfect for you.
materials synthetics and metal, winding, choice for beginners
Musical instruments have undergone significant changes over the long period of their existence. Technological progress and industrial development have opened new horizons for music performers. This also affected the traditional guitar, which acquired its new look in both acoustic and electric versions.
The very first strings were made from natural materials. As a rule, these were the veins or intestines of animals. The sound of such strings was distinguished by tenderness and melody, especially intimate. First it was the lyre, then the harp. In later times, the guitar appeared. The sound quality of the “natural” strings was pleasant to the ear, but the natural material quickly deteriorated. The disadvantages of the first strings include:
- fast wear;
- quiet sounding;
- moisture resistance;
- instability to temperature extremes.
The vein strings wore out especially quickly from frequent touching in the fret area. The material was worn out and constantly required replacement. The dampness of the musician’s fingers also disabled the string.
New generation materials
In the age of industrial development, the world heard a new sound of strings on a metal base. The grand piano won the hearts of music lovers with its powerful sound in large halls. New properties of the string, high strength and durability have opened up wide possibilities in art.Very quickly, metal strings began to be installed on guitars. What is the classification of new century strings?
In the video, the specialist tells about the types of strings for guitars:
According to the type of material, the strings can be divided into:
- metal base.
By type of destination – for:
- classical guitar;
- acoustic guitars;
- electric guitars.
Synthetic strings are made from materials such as carbon or nylon. They are quite durable, have a melodious sound, and are inexpensive. Synthetics are installed on classic type guitars. Copper-wound nylon strands go to the bass register.
There are three types of nylon threads in terms of tension: medium, strong and very strong. For slow romantic music with a gentle sound, medium tension is suitable. But for a fast active composition you need strings of strong or very strong tension.It is worth considering that the tension of the string negatively affects the comfort of the game: fingers get tired and sore.
Carbon fiber material was invented in Japan. In terms of performance, it is much stronger than nylon. These strings produce a rich, bright sound. Professional musicians and sophisticated music lovers will prefer carbon over nylon. But for novice musicians, nylon is better suited: it is softer and more elastic, does not injure the fingers.
Strings, metal base
- stainless steel;
- alloy of steel and nickel;
- coated with nano materials.
Metal produces a rich sound with a special resonance. Strings on a metal base are used in open concerts of pop music. The pulling force of metal strings is much higher than nylon or carbon strings. This makes it possible to perform sparkling pop compositions and improvisations.
Noble steel (stainless) strings are highly durable, corrosion-resistant and have a brilliant sound. They create mid-frequency vibrations and are set to mid-range.The disadvantage is rigidity. Steel requires trained left hand fingers.
Gold gives a bright, crisp sound. Of course, the cost of such material will be very high, but you will get a strong, high quality string.
Nickel-steel alloy is the most common material. These threads have a bright loud sound, are comfortable for the fingers. If you are looking for a room version of the guitar, you can buy pure nickel strings for a more muted chamber sound.Nickel provides great sounding to blues and classic jazz compositions.
Bronze is placed on acoustic guitars. This material gives a bright sound and has a special sonorous temperament, but is not suitable for electric guitars. Bronze resists rust and is softer to the touch than steel. Phosphor bronze is a special priority for acoustic instruments: it produces a softer sound and is comfortable for playing with your fingers. Phosphoric bronze is brighter than usual in color, it has a reddish tint.
Acoustic guitars also use copper, which produces a less bright sound. However, copper material costs several times cheaper than bronze and silver.
Finally, of the latest generation nano-coated filaments. In addition to strength, nano technology provides a reduction in “overtones” when pressing the string. The sound is almost perfect, without extraneous noise and unnecessary sounds of a non-musical nature.
What is winding
Wound strings are used for the bass register.What it is? The winding began to be used at the end of the 18th century in order to facilitate playing and enrich the sound of the lower register. The winding is made from different metal alloys and is divided into types:
For muffled chamber sound, choose flat-wound strings. For a bright intense sound, choose a round winding.
Metal alloys for winding
The most common winding is copper alloy.It is an inexpensive material that provides a velvety sound. However, the disadvantage of copper alloys is the contamination of the fingers: marks remain on them.
Silver is slightly more expensive than copper, but more practical and more convenient to play. First, silver looks good. Secondly, it does not change the sound of the string. Thirdly, it is much more durable than copper.
The most expensive threads are brass or phosphor bronze. But they are also the most durable.
What to choose for a beginner
When choosing a set of strings, consider:
- guitar type;
- sound type;
- type of musical composition.
Tips for beginners on choosing guitar and strings for the first play:
- For beginners in classical guitar, you need to stock up on nylon strings. Metal goes for acoustic guitars.
- Steel base gives a loud ringing sound. For beginners, “ten” is suitable.
Remember that no strings will help a mis-tuned instrument. To make your guitar sound, learn the basics of tuning the instrument.90,000 Which guitar strings should you choose?
When choosing strings or a musical instrument, do not completely trust the opinion of “experts”. In particular, you need to be careful with would-be sellers, who today in music stores are not distinguished by special knowledge and professionalism. In most cases, they are interested not in helping the buyer, but in selling the most expensive goods and receiving an appropriate percentage of sales.
Every guitarist in his life will try dozens of different types of strings and brands, as well as have time to completely change their preferences several times. And this is not surprising – people and their tastes change, in the same way, the technologies for the production of strings do not stand still. Pros often have more than one guitar, and for each of them their own strings are selected that best emphasize the sound and are suitable for physical qualities.
All this makes advice on choosing specific models meaningless, but it will be useful to acquaint the reader with the design and differences.The choice between strings of the same type from different brands can only be made based on your own experience.
What is a string:
By and large, a string is any wire or thread (with or without wrapping), as long as it does not break or stretch too much when played.
Many years ago, even before the modern form of guitar, our ancestors used tendons (gut strings), intestines (intestinal strings), silk, bronze, copper, hair and plant materials to make strings.Today only silk (in Asia) and intestinal strings are used of them (very rarely they can be found on harps and other ancient musical instruments in special enables).
These types of strings can be classified as monolithic, i.e. not having a winding. Winding on strings appeared at the end of the 18th century. This has improved the tone of the bass, made it easier to perform and broadened the possibilities of most musical instruments.
The first steel strings were used in grand pianos from the middle of the 18th century, and later on other musical instruments.In the 20th century, the types of strings have significantly expanded, synthetic strings, strings with a steel cable, with profile (semicircular and flat) and multilayer windings, bimetallic (two or more materials), with various surface coatings, etc. have appeared.
Until recently, guitar strings were divided into synthetics (nylon) and steel (metal). Synthetic strings are used for classical guitars, while steel strings are used for acoustic ones. Of course, metal strings were also put on the classics, if there was nothing else.However, classical guitars are not designed for such a strong tension – the instrument often breaks down.
String production does not stand still and now there are strings for classical guitar with a metal core, and some steel strings have acquired a synthetic coating.
Now the strings are subdivided according to their purpose: for a classical guitar or for an acoustic one with their own subtypes and calibers (diameters and tension force).
Classical Guitar Strings
Guitars use a fan spring system on the top deck, total string tension from 32 to 45 kg (up to 50 kg on American-made strings)
Kinds of strings
c) synthetic high density / “carbon”;
d) Strings on a steel cable;
a) Intestinal (monolithic) strings (eng.Gut strings).
In Russia they are called “veins”, which is not true – these strings are made from the intestines of animals, usually sheep. These strings are brought in small batches by lovers of early music, but you will not wear them in free sale in Russia (and they are very rare in the West). These strings break down very quickly on instruments with metal frets, as well as heat and finger sweat.
b) Synthetic strings (“nylon”)
Developed in the USA in the 40s of the XX century by the firm “Augustine”.They immediately gained immense popularity with guitarists due to their strength and accuracy of the diameter along the entire length of the string.
The top three strings of a 6-string set are monolithic synthetic nylon line (“monofilament”). Bass strings are made up of a large number of synthetic nylon threads (multifilament / polyfilament). Traditionally, silver-plated copper wire of a round profile is used as a winding. The silver plating (thousandths of a millimeter) prevents fingers from getting dirty, and it just looks good.This coating is also a kind of indicator of string wear – over time, notches appear at the points of contact between the strings and frets (especially on the 4th string with the thinnest winding). Recently, copper alloys have become popular with string manufacturers: phosphor bronze, nickel silver, pure and silver-plated brass. These alloys are more durable when used for winding, but the strings become less sonorous.
in) Carbon (high density synthetic strings)
At the end of the 20th century, a synthetic material with a higher density than ordinary nylon (by 70%) was invented in Japan.Strings of this material with the same tension force have a smaller diameter:
MI 1st string: nylon – 0.70 mm / carbon – 0.54 mm;
SI 2nd string: nylon – 0.80mm / carbon – 0.61mm;
SALT 3rd string: nylon – 1.00mm / carbon – 0.76mm.
Visual Comparison of Single Tension Carbon vs. Nylon Strings:
Carbon strings are noticeably thinner, louder, brighter and … more expensive. Often, only the top strings are made from carbon, while the bass strings are made from nylon (the difference in the timbre of the bass strings is not so noticeable).
d) Strings on a steel cable
They appeared in Russia since 2000. These strings are relatively soft, so they can be used on classical guitars. All of these strings are wrapped: the top strings are nylon tape, the bass strings are traditional silver-plated copper. These trunks practically do not stretch and easily change the altitude when turning the tuning pegs. Due to their high cost and uncommonness, these strings are not often found on the market.
Acoustic Guitar Strings
Guitars with cross-reinforced top springs, jumbo, western body, adjustable neck height.The total string tension is 40-80 kg (in the USA up to 100 kg).
b) steel with flat / semicircular winding;
c) steel in a synthetic shell;
a) Strings on a solid steel base
The core (core) is a high-strength “piano” steel. Used on uncoiled upper strings (first, second, and sometimes third strings). The core can be not only round, but also hexagonal, such a profile allows the winding to be more tightly pressed against the core.
The main winding materials are copper alloys (brass, phosphor bronze), they differ in elasticity and hardness – this affects the sound and feel in the fingers when playing. The cross section of the winding also varies – the most popular is the round wound. It provides the brightest and most resonant sound, especially immediately after installing the
b) Flat (flat wound) and semicircular (half-round wound) with a flat side from the neck are used by guitarists for recording on a microphone, as the rattle of strings decreases when changing positions in the left hand.These windings do not sound as bright as the roud wound, but the timbre shrinking due to friction against the frets is slower.
c) Steel strings in a thin synthetic sheath
There are two types of such a casing (developed in the late 90s in the USA). For the first type, the finished string is covered with a synthetic sheath, for the second type, a winding wire is sheathed and then this wire is wound around the core of the string. The coating helps to protect the windings from dirt and sweat, to reduce the rattle of strings when changing positions of the left hand, to prevent the windings from flattening when in contact with the frets.Sheathed strings last many times longer, but they lack the brilliant sound that is characteristic of new strings in the first hours of playing. Many professional guitarists are willing to change strings every time they record in the studio and live.
Guitars can vary greatly in the length of the string stretched from the nut to the saddle (scale).The scale range is 575-674mm, and when tuning on different guitars, one set of strings may differ in tension (stiffness). For a guitar with a smaller scale, you need to use thicker strings to get the required tension. Now the standard scale is considered to be 648-650 mm (more often 650).
About string tension
The graph shows the tension of two sets of strings with normal and boosted bass with identical first and second strings.
Guitarists playing metal strings are used to orienting themselves by the diameter of the first string. The higher the number, the harder the strings. Diameter is measured in fractions of an inch, for example one of the most popular string gauges has a first string diameter of 0.010 inches – these strings are called “tens”. The lightest strings are eights and nines, tens and elevens are the average thickness, and then 12, 13 are heavy strings. Heavy strings are often used for lowered non-standard guitar tunings.For example, if you are tuning the first string in D instead of E, and you also want to get a good tension.
Not all guitarists pay attention to bass strings and their diameters, but in vain! American strings are very popular in Russia, and among them many are designed for playing with a pick and have thick bass strings. Playing fingerstyle on these strings will make it harder for you. But if you prefer more powerful bass and picking, these strings are the right choice.
For synthetic strings, they usually just focus on the tension force (normal, hard, extra hard), since different materials give different tension at the same diameter (especially carbon).There is also a difference between transparent and black nylon, expressed not only in color.
) and the music you are playing. A beginner should first choose the gauge of the guitar strings (tension force), start with a dozen (for acoustics) or normal tension (classic). Then try a different string tension of the same brand.Once you’ve decided on the caliber, try different brands and lines of strings. The main thing is not to put acoustic strings on a classical guitar!
90,000 définition de% d0% a2% d0% b5% d0% bd% d0% bd% d0% b8% d1% 81 et synonymes de% d0% a2% d0% b5% d0% bd% d0% bd% d0% b8 % d1% 81 (russe)
% d0% a2% d0% b5% d0% bd% d0% bd% d0% b8% d1% 81: définition de% d0% a2% d0% b5% d0% bd% d0% bd% d0% b8% d1% 81 et synonymes de% d0% a2% d0% b5% d0% bd% d0% bd% d0% b8% d1% 81 (russe)
Contenu de sensagent
dictionnaire et traducteur pour sites web
Une fenêtre (pop-into) d’information (contenu principal de Sensagent) est invoquée un double-clic sur n’importe quel mot de votre page web.LA fenêtre fournit des explanations et des traductions contextuelles, c’est-à-dire sans obliger votre visiteur à quitter votre page web!
Essayer ici, télécharger le code;
Solution commerce électronique
Augmenter le contenu de votre site
Ajouter de nouveaux contenus Add à votre site depuis Sensagent par XML.
Parcourir les produits et les annonces
Obtenir des informations en XML pour filtrer le meilleur contenu.
Indexer des images et définir des méta-données
Fixer la signification de chaque méta-donnée (multilingue).
Renseignements suite à un email de description de votre projet.
Lettris est un jeu de lettres gravitationnelles proche de Tetris. Chaque lettre qui apparaît descend; il faut placer les lettres de telle manière que des mots se forment (gauche, droit, haut et bas) et que de la place soit libérée.
Il s’agit en 3 minutes de trouver le plus grand nombre de mots possibles de trois lettres et plus dans une grille de 16 lettres.Il est aussi possible de jouer avec la grille de 25 cases. Les lettres doivent être adjacentes et les mots les plus longs sont les meilleurs. Participer au concours et enregistrer votre nom dans la liste de meilleurs joueurs! Jouer
Dictionnaire de la langue française
La plupart des définitions du français sont proposées par SenseGates et comportent un approfondissement avec Littré et plusieurs auteurs techniques specialisés.
Le dictionnaire des synonymes est surtout dérivé du dictionnaire intégral (TID).
L’encyclopédie française bénéficie de la license Wikipedia (GNU).
Changer la langue cible pour obtenir des traductions.
Astuce: parcourir les champs sémantiques du dictionnaire analogique en plusieurs langues pour mieux apprendre avec sensagent.
6702 visiteurs en ligne
calculé en 0,063s
allemand anglais arabe bulgare chinois coréen croate danois espagnol espéranto estonien finnois français grec hébreu hindi hongrois islandais indonésien italien japonais letton lituanien malgache néerlandais norvégien persan polonais portugais roumain russe serbe slovaque slovène suédois tchèque thai turc vietnamien
allemand anglais arabe bulgare chinois coréen croate danois espagnol espéranto estonien finnois français grec hébreu hindi hongrois islandais indonésien italien japonais letton lituanien malgache néerlandais norvégien persan polonais portugais roumain russe serbe slovaque slovène suédois tchèque thai turc vietnamien.