What are the effects of reverse headgear treatment on girls with unilateral complete cleft lip and cleft palate. How does early maxillary protraction improve skeletal harmony in cleft patients. What proportion of skeletal and dental changes contribute to sagittal correction.
Understanding Cleft Lip and Palate: Causes and Complications
Cleft lip and palate is a congenital condition that affects facial development during pregnancy. This condition can lead to various complications, including maxillary retrognathism – a condition where the upper jaw is positioned behind the lower jaw. But what causes this retrognathism in cleft patients?
The retrognathism in cleft lip and palate patients is primarily due to two factors:
- The congenital deformity itself
- The effects of surgical repairs
These factors combine to create a challenging orthodontic situation that often requires specialized treatment approaches. One such approach is the use of reverse headgear, which aims to protract the maxilla and improve skeletal harmony.
Reverse Headgear Treatment: An Early Intervention Approach
Early intervention is crucial in managing the orthodontic challenges faced by cleft lip and palate patients. Reverse headgear treatment is one such early intervention method that has shown promising results. But how exactly does this treatment work?
Reverse headgear applies extraoral forces to protract the maxilla at an early age. This early protraction helps achieve:
- More balanced skeletal harmony
- Favorable occlusion for future growth
By addressing the maxillary retrognathism early on, reverse headgear treatment sets the stage for improved facial growth and development in cleft patients.
Study Design: Focusing on a Homogeneous Sample Group
The study discussed in this article took a unique approach by focusing on a homogeneous sample group. Why is this significant in the context of cleft lip and palate research?
Previous studies often pooled together boys and girls with various types of clefts for analysis. This study, however, deliberately focused on:
- Only girls
- With unilateral complete cleft lip and cleft palate
This homogeneous sample allows for more precise analysis of treatment effects, as it eliminates variables such as gender and cleft type that could potentially influence results.
Comparison Group: Matching for Accurate Results
To further enhance the accuracy of the study, a carefully selected comparison group was used. How was this comparison group chosen?
The comparison group consisted of girls matched on several key factors:
- Similar deformity (unilateral complete cleft lip and cleft palate)
- Similar skeletal structure
- Similar maturity status
By matching these factors, the study aimed to reveal the genuine treatment effect of reverse headgear, isolating it from other potential influencing factors.
Treatment Duration and Outcomes: Quantifying the Effects
The study conducted reverse headgear treatment over a period of 9.7 months. What were the key outcomes observed during this treatment period?
Two significant improvements were noted:
- Improved sagittal jaw relationship (p < 0.01)
- Improved overjet (p < 0.01)
These improvements demonstrate the effectiveness of reverse headgear in addressing the orthodontic challenges faced by cleft lip and palate patients. But what’s particularly interesting is the breakdown of these improvements.
Skeletal vs. Dental Changes: Breaking Down the Improvements
One of the most intriguing findings of this study is the proportion of skeletal and dental changes contributing to the overall improvement. How did these changes break down?
The improvements were effected by:
- About two-thirds skeletal changes
- About one-third dental changes
This breakdown provides valuable insight into the nature of the improvements achieved through reverse headgear treatment. It suggests that the treatment is not just affecting tooth position, but is actually influencing the skeletal structure of the face.
Implications for Treatment of Cleft Lip and Palate Patients
Given the findings of this study, what are the implications for the treatment of cleft lip and palate patients? The results suggest several important considerations:
- Early intervention with reverse headgear can lead to significant improvements in jaw relationship and overjet.
- The treatment affects both skeletal and dental structures, with a greater emphasis on skeletal changes.
- The homogeneous sample group approach may provide more accurate insights into treatment effects for specific patient populations.
These implications could potentially influence treatment planning and expectations for cleft lip and palate patients, particularly girls with unilateral complete clefts.
Future Research Directions in Cleft Lip and Palate Treatment
While this study provides valuable insights, it also opens up avenues for future research. What potential research directions could build on these findings?
- Long-term follow-up studies to assess the stability of improvements achieved through reverse headgear treatment
- Comparative studies examining the effects of reverse headgear treatment in different cleft types
- Investigations into the optimal timing and duration of reverse headgear treatment for maximal effect
- Studies exploring the psychological impact of early orthodontic intervention in cleft patients
These research directions could further enhance our understanding of cleft lip and palate treatment and improve outcomes for patients.
The Role of Interdisciplinary Care in Cleft Treatment
While this study focuses on orthodontic intervention, it’s important to remember that cleft lip and palate treatment typically involves a multidisciplinary approach. How does orthodontic treatment fit into the broader picture of cleft care?
Cleft care often involves a team of specialists, including:
- Plastic surgeons
- Orthodontists
- Speech therapists
- ENT specialists
- Pediatric dentists
- Psychologists
Orthodontic interventions like reverse headgear treatment are just one piece of the puzzle. They work in conjunction with surgical repairs, speech therapy, and other interventions to provide comprehensive care for cleft patients.
Personalized Treatment Plans: The Future of Cleft Care
As our understanding of cleft lip and palate treatment grows, there’s an increasing emphasis on personalized treatment plans. How might the findings of this study contribute to more personalized care?
The study’s focus on a specific patient group (girls with unilateral complete cleft lip and palate) aligns with the trend towards personalized medicine. By understanding the specific effects of treatments on particular patient groups, clinicians can:
- Tailor treatment plans to individual patients
- Set more accurate expectations for treatment outcomes
- Make more informed decisions about the timing and duration of interventions
This personalized approach has the potential to improve treatment outcomes and patient satisfaction in cleft care.
The Importance of Early Intervention in Cleft Treatment
This study underscores the importance of early intervention in cleft lip and palate treatment. Why is early intervention so crucial in these cases?
Early intervention in cleft cases offers several advantages:
- It can guide facial growth during critical developmental periods
- It may reduce the need for more invasive procedures later in life
- It can improve functional outcomes, such as speech and eating
- It may have positive psychological effects by addressing visible differences earlier
The success of reverse headgear treatment in this study provides further evidence for the benefits of early orthodontic intervention in cleft cases.
Challenges in Cleft Lip and Palate Research
While this study provides valuable insights, it’s important to acknowledge the challenges inherent in cleft lip and palate research. What are some of the difficulties researchers face in this field?
Some key challenges include:
- The relatively low incidence of cleft lip and palate, making it difficult to gather large sample sizes
- The variability in cleft types and severities
- The long-term nature of cleft treatment, requiring extended follow-up periods
- The multifactorial nature of treatment outcomes, influenced by surgical, orthodontic, and other interventions
Despite these challenges, studies like this one contribute to our growing understanding of effective cleft treatment strategies.
The Global Perspective on Cleft Lip and Palate
It’s worth noting that this study focused on Southern Chinese girls. How does the global perspective on cleft lip and palate treatment compare?
Cleft lip and palate occurs across all populations, but its prevalence and treatment approaches can vary:
- In some regions, access to comprehensive cleft care may be limited
- Cultural factors may influence treatment decisions and timing
- Genetic factors may affect the prevalence of clefts in different populations
- Global collaborations are increasingly important in advancing cleft research and treatment
While this study provides insights into treatment effects in a specific population, it’s part of a broader global effort to improve cleft care worldwide.
The Patient Experience: Beyond the Clinical Outcomes
While this study focuses on clinical outcomes, it’s important to consider the patient experience in cleft treatment. How might reverse headgear treatment impact patients beyond the measurable skeletal and dental changes?
Potential impacts on patients may include:
- Improved self-esteem and body image
- Better social integration due to improved facial appearance
- Potential discomfort or inconvenience during treatment
- Psychological effects of early intervention and visible treatment appliances
Future research could benefit from incorporating patient-reported outcomes to get a more comprehensive picture of treatment effects.
Technological Advancements in Cleft Treatment
As technology continues to advance, how might it impact cleft lip and palate treatment in the future?
Emerging technologies that could influence cleft care include:
- 3D printing for custom treatment appliances
- Advanced imaging techniques for more precise treatment planning
- Genetic testing to predict cleft risk and guide preventive measures
- Tissue engineering for improved surgical outcomes
These technological advancements could potentially enhance the effectiveness of treatments like reverse headgear and improve overall outcomes for cleft patients.
The Role of Genetics in Cleft Lip and Palate
While this study focuses on treatment outcomes, it’s important to consider the role of genetics in cleft lip and palate. How does our understanding of the genetic factors influence treatment approaches?
Genetic factors play a significant role in cleft lip and palate:
- Certain genes have been identified as increasing the risk of cleft development
- Family history is a known risk factor for clefts
- Genetic counseling may be recommended for families with a history of clefts
- Understanding genetic factors could lead to more targeted prevention and treatment strategies in the future
As our understanding of the genetic basis of clefts improves, it may inform more personalized treatment approaches, including orthodontic interventions like reverse headgear treatment.
Nutritional Considerations in Cleft Care
While orthodontic treatment is a crucial aspect of cleft care, nutrition also plays an important role. How does nutrition factor into the overall care of cleft patients?
Nutritional considerations in cleft care include:
- Challenges with feeding in infancy due to the cleft
- Potential for nutritional deficiencies if feeding is difficult
- The importance of good nutrition for overall growth and development
- Dietary considerations during various stages of treatment, including post-surgical periods
Proper nutrition supports overall health and may contribute to better treatment outcomes, including responses to orthodontic interventions like reverse headgear treatment.
The Psychological Impact of Cleft Lip and Palate
While this study focuses on physical changes, it’s crucial to consider the psychological impact of cleft lip and palate. How does this condition, and its treatment, affect patients psychologically?
Psychological aspects of cleft lip and palate can include:
- Potential for lowered self-esteem or body image issues
- Social challenges related to visible differences or speech difficulties
- Stress related to multiple medical procedures and treatments
- Positive psychological effects of successful treatment outcomes
Understanding these psychological factors is crucial for providing comprehensive care to cleft patients. Future research could explore how early interventions like reverse headgear treatment might impact psychological outcomes.
The Economic Aspects of Cleft Treatment
While not directly addressed in this study, it’s important to consider the economic aspects of cleft treatment. What are some of the financial considerations in cleft care?
Economic factors in cleft treatment include:
- The cost of multiple surgical procedures over many years
- Expenses related to ongoing orthodontic treatment
- Potential costs of speech therapy and other associated treatments
- Variations in coverage by health insurance in different countries
These economic factors can significantly impact access to comprehensive cleft care, including advanced treatments like reverse headgear. Future research and policy efforts may need to address these economic barriers to ensure equitable access to optimal cleft treatment.
Effects of reverse headgear treatment on sagittal correction in girls born with unilateral complete cleft lip and cleft palate–skeletal and dental changes
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Comparative Study
.
1996 Feb;109(2):140-7.
doi: 10.1016/s0889-5406(96)70174-9.
L L So
1
Affiliations
Affiliation
- 1 Department of Children’s Dentistry and Orthodontics, Faculty of Dentistry, University of Hong Kong.
PMID:
8638559
DOI:
10.1016/s0889-5406(96)70174-9
Comparative Study
L L So.
Am J Orthod Dentofacial Orthop.
1996 Feb.
. 1996 Feb;109(2):140-7.
doi: 10.1016/s0889-5406(96)70174-9.
Author
L L So
1
Affiliation
- 1 Department of Children’s Dentistry and Orthodontics, Faculty of Dentistry, University of Hong Kong.
PMID:
8638559
DOI:
10.1016/s0889-5406(96)70174-9
Abstract
Patients with cleft lip and cleft palate often develop maxillary retrognathism. This is due to the combined effects of the congenital deformity and surgical repairs. Early protraction of the maxilla with extraoral forces helps to achieve more balanced skeletal harmony and favorable occlusion for future growth to occur. The purpose of the present study is to investigate the proportion of the skeletal and dental changes contributing to the improvement in a group of Southern Chinese girls born with unilateral complete cleft lip and cleft palate treated by the reverse headgear. This study only focused on treating a homogenous sample group, i.
e., only girls with unilateral complete cleft lip and cleft palate. This design was deliberate so as to avoid having boys and girls with various types of cleft all pooled together for analyses as seen in most of the previous reports. In addition, comparison was made with girls matched in having a similar deformity, presenting a similar skeletal structure and maturity status to reveal the genuine treatment effect. The 9.7 months of reverse headgear treatment improved the sagittal jaw relationship (p < 0.01) and overjet (p < 0.01), which was effected by about two-thirds skeletal and one-third dental changes.
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Are Orthodontic Headgear Braces Worth it?
Do people still wear orthodontic headgear? Braces patients may not see people wearing headgear left and right like they did decades ago, but it’s not completely extinct.
Even today, when your orthodontist uses modern headgear, braces can be more effective for severe malocclusion needs. When used, these oral appliances can lower the chances of needing jaw surgery or major treatments that can’t be corrected by just using braces.
Although orthodontic headgear is way less common, someone with a serious underjet, overbite, or deep bite may still need it from time to time.
Orthodontic Headgear
With headgear, braces can work more effectively to correct bite concerns outside of the normal crooked or gapped teeth. When you use modern headgear, braces have an “anchor” to grip onto, to help guide teeth and jaw growth/placement. Whereas without headgear, braces can only attach teeth to other teeth, pulling both of them at the same time instead of just one tooth. [1]
Since headgear provides an anchor to pull against, it’s possible to adjust “bigger” jaw and tooth positioning issues that require extra force to ensure proper movement.
There are different types of headgear, with some attaching behind the back of your neck and others attaching higher up, near the crown. Depending on which part of your mouth needs to be adjusted, the headgear selected will pull in that direction.
What Are Braces with Headgear?
Headgear has a strap that goes around the back of your head, then stretchy elastic bands or metal orthodontic bands attach on either side. These attachments loop onto a wire arch, which is also attached to your orthodontic appliance. If you have “bands” around any teeth, that’s where the mouth portion of your headgear usually attaches. From the outside, it looks like a wire arch that goes from one ear to the other, attaching to the head strap.[2]
Wearing headgear creates an anchor to pull teeth against and to modify jaw growth patterns.
Since your skull doesn’t move, it makes a great structure to use for guiding your teeth. Especially when everything in your mouth is still growing, forming, developing, or moving.
With headgear, braces wearers don’t usually have to keep the appliance on all day long. You could compare it to using elastics or if you need TADs (a type of mini dental implant or screw), which serve a temporary purpose.
Do We Still Use Headgear Today? Why?
Orthodontists will still occasionally use headgear. Especially if you have a major bite misalignment, atypical jaw growth patterns or to correct tooth spacing. Orthodontic headgear can effectively correct malocclusion without surgeries. By using headgear, braces can work without the additional need for corrective surgeries. Although surgery is still used from time to time, incorporating orthodontic treatment like headgear early enough in a child or teen’s development can reduce the risk of needing surgery to correct their jaw shape.
magonlinelibrary.com/doi/abs/10.12968/denu.2016.43.1.74″ websitename=”Dental Update”>[3]
You might ask, “But why can’t the braces or other oral appliances move the teeth?”
Great question.
Orthodontic headgear works by pulling against other teeth would also move THOSE teeth. Using headgear eliminates the side-effect of unwanted tooth and jaw movement. That way your orthodontist can focus on a specific area of your mouth. Headgear is commonly used to correct:
- Underbite – headgear is used to gently pull the upper jaw forward, allowing it to align properly with the lower jaw bones
- Excessive horizontal overbite – severe cases where the upper and lower teeth don’t touch (class II malocclusions) the upper jaw is biting significantly ahead of the lower jaw
- Crossbite – Reverse pull headgear shifts the upper jaw forward to realign it with your lower jaw
Today, TADs are extremely common and help reduce the need for wearing orthodontic headgear.
TADs are like mini dental implants or screws that also provide an anchor for braces to pull against. But they don’t work on everything and some people just don’t make good candidates for them. Whereas with modern headgear, patients of all ages qualify.
How Long Do You Have To Wear It?
Just like elastics that you wear on certain teeth for set lengths of time, headgear comes with special instructions on how to wear it. You don’t have to walk around with it on 24/7 the whole time you have braces.[4]
Depending on your specific oral anatomy, you may need to wear headgear longer or less often than someone else. Remember, headgear helps prevent the need for surgery, so it’s easier to sort of “tough it out” for a little while than it is to plan a major jaw reconstruction and weeks of recovery.
Your orthodontist will tell you when and how long to wear it. Be sure to wear it as directed, otherwise, you won’t see the results you’re looking for and may have to wear it even longer than originally planned.
What To Expect From Headgear
Great news. Headgear isn’t going to get in the way of your normal lifestyle. Sure, it’s going to catch some attention if you wear it out in public, but the streamlined design isn’t nearly as bulky as it was when your parents or grandparents were kids.
All of that being said, there are times when you should not wear your headgear and there are changes you’ll need to make to your daily routine. As long as you plan appropriately, you can still do what you love and eat what you want. Well, as long as it’s on your braces-approved list of foods.
1. How Long Do You Need To Wear It Each Day?
This is going to be unique to every single orthodontic patient. You may only need to wear your headgear for specific hours of the day.
Such as overnight or putting it on immediately after you come home from school. Depending on your anatomy, your orthodontist might even ask that you wear it all day every day, removing it for meals, brushing, etc.
2. How To Overcome Wearing Headgear
Orthodontic headgear is a temporary appliance. Your orthodontist’s office will give you plenty of advice on how to fit and adjust it so that it’s comfortable to wear. By working your way up to wearing it for the prescribed length of time, you’ll get more accustomed to wearing it around the house. You might even feel confident enough to wear it at school (especially if you’re one of those people that doesn’t mind all the extra attention.) Take a deep breath: tooth or jaw soreness does not last forever!
3. Adjustment Period
At first, wearing orthodontic headgear or any other type of removable appliance is—to put it bluntly—probably going to drive you nuts. Whether it’s braces, a Herbst appliance, palatal expander, or even elastics, the first few days are probably going to be a bit irritating if not uncomfortable.
Be patient with yourself and just give it time. Work your way up to the prescribed wear time and within about a week or two, it will feel as normal as it possibly can.
4. Setting New Rules
Even though headgear is removable, you’ll need to change some of your daily habits and routine. For example, don’t wear your headgear if you’re about to eat something or play a sport. Take it off, otherwise, you run the risk of a serious injury. Keep it stored in a secure place and put it back on afterward.
How To Sleep With Dental Headgear
If you’re lucky, you’ll only need to wear your headgear at night instead of the daytime. But adjusting to sleeping in orthodontic headgear isn’t easy, especially if you’re a side sleeper or tend to lay on your stomach.
Now comes the hard part. You’ll need to experiment with sleeping on your back and not moving your head to one side.
If your mouth tends to get a little sore and it’s hard to get to sleep, consider taking a Tylenol or Motrin about 20 minutes before you go to bed at night.
How To Brush With Headgear And Clean Headgear
You’ll want to clean your headgear just like any other type of oral appliance. Since it isn’t permanently attached to your mouth, you can remove it whenever it’s time for your normal oral hygiene routine.
- Remove your headgear at least twice a day to brush and floss like normal. Make sure you’re still using any floss threaders or a water flosser to clean between and around wires and brackets on your teeth
- Use a toothbrush and lukewarm, soapy water to clean any portions of the headgear that go inside your mouth
- Towel off your headgear or allow it to air dry, making sure to keep your device out of the reach of any pets or small children
- If the straps or other parts of the headgear are dirty, use warm soapy water and a soft washcloth to clean them off
Talk With an Orthodontist About a Brace with Headgear
Very few people still require modern headgear. Braces can usually be completed with other growth modification devices or TADs when a firm anchor is necessary.
Even if your dentist told you that you needed headgear, it’s best to talk to an orthodontic specialist about the situation. [5]
In most cases, headgear holdings back the growth of the upper jaw helping prevent the need for major jaw surgery, assuming growth patterns are caught early enough. Orthodontists are experts when it comes to jaw development, tooth alignment, and growth modification. They will be able to tell you during your consultation if you’ll need headgear or if another option is available.
Wearing Orthodontic Headgear
Modern headgear is still used today, especially if someone has a major overbite, underbite, or deep bite. Using headgear reduces the chances of needing jaw misalignment surgery later on.
Very few people need these appliances (especially now that TADs and Herbst appliances are available) but they still hold a purpose for people with major malocclusion and misaligned teeth issues. Always talk to an orthodontist or get a second opinion if you have any concerns.
Women’s and girls’ headdresses in Rus’
К.Е. Makovsky “Boyarishnya” 1884 Women’s and girl’s headdresses in Rus’.
For centuries in Rus’, all women’s attire was “talking” and because of the way a woman’s head was decorated, it was possible to judge her place of residence, occupation, origin and status.
Each province had its own fashion and decorated the headdress in a special way. By the headdress one could find out the social status of its mistress. Moreover, it was by the headdress that one could find out whether a young lady or a married woman was walking down the street. The headdress also spoke of the wealth of its owner. This was evident because in what techniques and materials the headdress of the Russian beauty was decorated.
Girl’s headdress
Women’s and girl’s headdress in Rus’. Girls’ holiday costume. XIX century. Nizhny Novgorod province Headband, sundress, warm clothes
Hats were sewn depending on what status a woman was. I must say that the girl’s headdress could be quite diverse. It was called a crown, a ribbon, a bee, a whisk, a cloth. In addition to these names, there were others.
Women’s and girl’s hats in Rus’. Ancient girl’s headdress – crown “bangs”
Headwear was made from cloth and brocade, which was folded like a ribbon. Koruna was considered the most solemn headdress. We can call it a crown and its base was made of wire, foil or even plain cardboard. The base was covered with fabric and embroidered with beads, pearls and stones. Mother-of-pearl, coins and shells were also used … Everything that looked beautiful and harmonious on each specific product.
Girls’ festive costume. XIX century. Vologda province Shirt, sundress, bib, bandage, half-shawl
The korunas in the northern provinces were especially beautiful.
They were decorated with precious stones. Korunas were worn by marriageable girls until the 20th century.
Headdress for a married woman.
Festive dress for women. XIX century. Nizhny Novgorod province
“Haired”, that is, only a girl could walk without a headdress, and it was impossible in Rus’ to meet a simple-haired woman, that is, a married woman – the head of the clan. Most often, a woman wore a kiku. Kika could have “horns” into which dense fabric was inserted. These “horns” on the headdress were supposed to protect the woman and give her strength and fertility. The older the woman became, the smaller the horns on the kick became.
Russian: Votyachka. 1838
1838
Retrieved
Russian: Album “Clothes of the Russian State”
English: Album “Clothes Of Russian Country”
Magpie.
Women’s Old Believer festive costume. The village of Chernukha, Nizhny Novgorod province Shirt, sundress, belt, apron-string, magpie, breast decoration “beard”, breast decoration – “viteyka”.
The magpie’s headdress could be brocade or velvet. The magpie was decorated with pearls and gold embroidery. Young people put on a magpie on patronal holidays and took care of it as the most expensive outfit. A magpie cost more than a thoroughbred horse.
Kokoshnik.
Perhaps the most famous headdress is the kokoshnik. Today it is mistakenly confused with a girl’s headdress – a crest and a crown. But the kokoshnik is a purely female headdress!
For the manufacture of the kokoshnik, they took a quilted or glued canvas that was covered with an embroidered fabric. Often the fabric was embroidered with beads and stones.
Kokoshnik on the edges was decorated with pearl threads – cassocks. A mesh of pearls was placed on the front. On the kokoshnik it was possible to wear silk or woolen shawls – ubrus. Nowadays, women also wear hats, only now it is almost impossible to determine where the beauty came from and whether she is married. There was no such confusion in Rus’.
Today you can see real modern headdresses in Moscow in Gostiny Dvor at the address: Gostiny Dvor entrance from Varvarka, house 3, entrance 15. In Gostiny Dvor there is a representative office of Russian fashion designer Valentina Averyanova, who continues to keep Russian headdresses alive. Today you can buy or order a kokoshnik, kiku, crown, korun or other headdress corresponding to your status in order to continue the traditions of Rus’ in the modern world.
Where to go in such a headdress today? You ask. It already depends on your occupation, lifestyle and courage. Today, Russian women’s or girl’s hats are purchased for important celebrations such as weddings or public holidays, meetings with heads of state or for themed holidays and balls. And someone goes to the service in the temple in a Russian headdress …
The choice is yours!
Russian headdress – headband
Russian headdress – headband
Koruna – wedding headdress of Anastasia Averyanova
crown in Russian style
Women’s and girl’s headdresses in Rus’: The traditional modern headdress is the crown.
Women’s and girl’s headdresses in Rus’ Modern headdress bandage.
Women’s and girl’s hats in Rus’. Contemporary Crown
Wedding koruna, mantle and cuffs
Women’s and girl’s headdresses in Rus’. Modern headband
Embroidery lingerie, glass embroidery
Boyar dress and crown from Valentina Averyanova
Head decoration: modern headband
Women’s and girl’s headdresses in Russia: modern crown
Maiden’s vein ets
crown in Russian style
crown and lace hooded shower warmer
Maiden’s crown
maiden crown and headdress
Irina Volina in a crown
lace shower warmer and crown
Kokoshnik, embroidery with stones and glass on gold embroidery
Koruna and headdress
Linen, embroidery with pearls and beads
Russian beauty in a kokoshnik by Valentina Averyanova
showroom of Valentina Averyanova
kokoshnik and handrails
Kokoshnik with pearls, gold embroidery and gems
Contacts of Valentina Averyanova House of Russian Clothes
Please, if possible, call the indicated number one hour before your visit to the Russian style clothing store.
Registration in the showroom: ☎+7(495)114-50-16
The salon is located at: Moscow, st. Ilyinka, 4, Gostiny Dvor, entrance 15. The salon is open from 11:00 to 20:00, Mon-Fri
Women’s hats – Smolensk State Museum-Reserve
Charnets, Yanochka, Charnets,
Yes put the cap on Agatha.
yes for basting,
Cleaned up like a winch…”
Photograph by M.I. Pogodin. Ganna, Glotovka village, Oselsky volost, Elninsky district (forty).
Antique headdresses are a very “speaking” part of the folk costume. They reflected the story about the place of residence, social and family status. Girls did not cover their hair completely, and married women carefully hid it under a headdress. This ancient Slavic custom was preserved in the 19th – early 20th century. Walking with an uncovered head was considered a sin, a shame, belonging to witchcraft (“loose your hair – you fasten demons”).
The ritual change of the bride’s hairstyle and headdress was universally called “tying up the young woman”.
“This time to tie, to sit at the groom’s table, to tie a young woman is called. Yae, they say, they tie it up: it was a girl, and then there will be a woman” (Dukhovshchinsky, Svity)
“They took me away, they tied me in my horns, and the groom began to sit down…” (Yatsevsky, Isakovo).
The collection of women’s headwear in the collection of the Smolensk State Museum-Reserve is quite diverse and interesting;
On the territory of the Smolensk province, the ancient Slavic features of the headdress were preserved for quite a long time. A common female headdress was kichki of various shapes, which had the common name “horns”.
Kichka with horns Smolensk province. 19th century Canvas (left)
Kichka – block. Smolensk province, Vyazemsky district. Mid 19th century Canvas, birch bark, cord. From the collection of E.N. Kletnova (right)
Kichki were sewn from quilted linen canvas, the forehead part was compacted with hemp or birch bark, sometimes they were soaked with hemp oil or whey for hardness.
Young peasant women put on smart caps made of calico, printed chintz, and silk over the kichka – “magpies”.
The headband served as an addition to the magpie; it not only decorated, but also covered the woman’s hair from behind. Its upper part (“box”) was made of canvas, calico or calico, the middle (“threads”) – from parallel red woolen threads, the lower (“bottom”) – from beads. Beautiful samples of the back of the head with geometric ornament (rhombuses, crosses) were collected by M.I. Pogodin in the Elninsky district
Pozatylen.
The magpie was also decorated with strips made of beads – “hanging”, “guts”. As a result, a complex, multi-layered, festive headdress was created.
Magpie with the back of the head. Smolensk province, Elninsky district. !912 Fabric, braid, embroidery, beads. From the collection of M.I. Pogodin.
“Giving, aunties, giving, put on the basting!” – Dukhovshchinsky peasant women sang at the wedding, presenting the bride.
Basting is a linen towel 2-3 meters long and 30-40cm wide. Its ends were richly decorated with stripes of calico, ribbons, lace, “mahr” of red, yellow and green wool, embroidery, woven patterns.
Towel – “basting”. Smolensk region, Dukhovshchinsky district. 1920-1930s Linen, cotton fabric, weaving, embroidery.
Basting (towel, fly) was found in the Smolensk province as the main headdress, and also as an addition to the kichka, magpie, kokoshnik. Most often, the basting, folded in the form of a strip, was wrapped three times over another headdress, and the ends were laid on the sides or tied at the back and dissolved.
As noted by V.N. Dobrovolsky in the “Smolensk ethnographic collection” (1893d.), in the Bizyukovskaya volost of the Dorogobuzh district “married women wear boots (boots), a headdress in the form of an oblique basting, from under which one can see a kokoshnik with crosses. When a year has passed after marriage, this outfit is no longer worn.
… The above described outfit, however, is worn by women when they go to church, to fairs, to taverns. The sleeves are starched, and the ends of the basting stick up, in the form of a bow.
Akulina Nikitichna Ivanushkina der. Mitishkovo, Markhotkinskaya volost, Elninsky district. 1928. Photo by M.I. Pogodina
Under towel headdresses, women always wore a cap, which also participated in the wedding ceremony: “Capets – when Ana’s lazhatsa sleep, leave, then the mother-in-law should remove the veil and tie the cap …” (Smolensky district, Arkhipovka)
V .N. Dobrovolsky in the Smolensk Ethnographic Collection notes: “A woman covers her head with a scarf, after twisting her hair in the form of a roll to hold the scarf, sometimes twisting flax into her hair, if the natural decoration is insignificant, the hair is small and sparse. It is put on the hair and a cap made of chintz. A scarf is tied around the cap: the young wear red scarves, the old women are dark in color.
When leaving the yard, they cover themselves with a new scarf of bright color, tying it under the chin.”
Caps from the collection of E.N. Kletnova. “The ornament of weaving these caps is geometric, the basis of which is rhombuses. A rectangular blank woven from threads was sewn on the sides. In front, the edge of the caps was decorated with braid, embroidery with colored threads, and lace. “Horns” made of canvas or fiber were inserted into the corners of the cap. A cap tied at the back with a lace – a volosnik tightly fitted the head ”(L.M. Kozikova“ Items of a peasant costume and life of the Vyazemsky and Dukhovshchinsky counties 19-20 c. from the collection of E.N. Kletnova)
Cap. Smolensk province, Dukhovshchinsky district, Boyarshchina village. 2nd half of the 19th century
A variety of warriors and collections belonged to the costume of a married peasant woman. The collection became widespread at the end of the 19th century.
A young woman in a warrior. Smolensk province, Elninsky district. Photo by M.I. Pogodin.
A common headdress in the Smolensk region was a cap (“cap”) and a slightly different design, also called a “hat”. Such a bonnet was decorated with beads, glass beads, braid, woolen “mahr” bonnets, long wide ties and an elongated back covering the neck.
I.F. Buzanova in the “hat”. Smolensk province, Elninsky district, the village of Korovniki, near the Boldin Monastery. 1929 Photo by M.I. Pogodin.
By the beginning of the 20th century, the folk costume gradually lost its old details, fell into disuse, and changed.
So a resident of the Krasninsky district (Pustoselye village) V.V. Gerasimova recalled: “Mother … then wore an andarak … Mother wore a cap made of a scarf. They dismantled the hair on two sides, twisted it into a tourniquet and laid it on the head. A folded scarf was tied over the top. It turned out, due to highly styled hair, an imitation of a cap.
