What is M3 in knitting. How to execute the Make Three stitch. When to use M3 in knitting projects. What are the advantages of using M3 technique. How does M3 differ from other increase methods. Can M3 be used in various knitting patterns. What are some common mistakes when performing M3.
Understanding the M3 Knitting Technique
The M3 knitting technique, short for “Make Three,” is an intricate increase method that adds three stitches to your work in a single movement. This versatile technique is particularly useful for creating decorative elements and shaping garments with precision.
To execute the M3 stitch:
- Knit one stitch into the designated stitch
- Without removing the original stitch from the left needle, purl into the same stitch
- Finally, knit once more into the same stitch before slipping it off the left needle
This process effectively creates three new stitches from a single existing one, providing a unique texture and expanding your fabric rapidly.
Applications of M3 in Knitting Projects
The M3 technique finds its place in various knitting projects, offering both functional and aesthetic benefits. Some common applications include:
- Creating decorative bobbles or textured patterns
- Shaping sleeve caps or necklines
- Adding fullness to skirts or shawls
- Forming the base of fan or shell patterns
- Enhancing the structure of cables or twisted stitches
Is M3 suitable for beginners? While it may seem complex at first, with practice, even novice knitters can master this technique and incorporate it into their projects for added flair and functionality.
Comparing M3 to Other Increase Methods
M3 stands out among other increase techniques due to its ability to create multiple stitches at once. Here’s how it compares to some common alternatives:
| Technique | Stitches Added | Visibility | Texture |
|---|---|---|---|
| M3 | 3 | Noticeable | Textured |
| KFB (Knit Front and Back) | 1 | Slightly visible | Small bump |
| YO (Yarn Over) | 1 | Very visible | Hole/Eyelet |
| M1 (Make One) | 1 | Nearly invisible | Smooth |
Does the visibility of M3 make it unsuitable for some projects? While M3 is more noticeable than some other increase methods, its textured appearance can be a desirable feature in many designs, adding depth and interest to your knitted fabric.
Mastering the M3 Technique: Tips and Tricks
To perfect your M3 technique, consider these helpful tips:
- Maintain consistent tension across all three stitches to ensure evenness
- Practice on scrap yarn before incorporating M3 into your main project
- Use a larger needle size for the M3 stitch if you find it difficult to maneuver
- Count your stitches regularly to ensure you’re not accidentally adding extra increases
- Be mindful of how M3 affects your stitch count in subsequent rows
Are there any special considerations when working M3 in different yarn weights? Indeed, the bulkier the yarn, the more pronounced the M3 increase will be. You may need to adjust your technique slightly for very fine or very thick yarns to achieve the desired effect.
Incorporating M3 into Various Knitting Patterns
M3 can be a valuable addition to numerous knitting patterns. Here are some ways to incorporate this technique:
- Use M3 to create textured borders on scarves or blankets
- Incorporate M3 into lace patterns for added dimension
- Apply M3 in sock gussets for a unique heel shaping
- Utilize M3 in hat crown decreases for an interesting spiral effect
- Employ M3 in mittens or gloves to shape the thumb gusset
Can M3 be used in combination with other stitches or techniques? Absolutely! M3 can be creatively combined with various knitting techniques to produce intricate patterns and textures. Experiment with pairing M3 with cables, lace, or colorwork for stunning results.
Troubleshooting Common M3 Knitting Issues
While M3 is a powerful technique, knitters may encounter some challenges. Here are solutions to common problems:
Uneven Stitches
If your M3 stitches appear uneven, focus on maintaining consistent tension across all three stitches. Practice on a swatch until you achieve uniformity.
Holes Around M3
Holes can form if the stitches are worked too loosely. Try tightening your tension slightly or use a smaller needle for the M3 stitch.
Difficulty Maneuvering
If you struggle to work all three stitches into one, consider using a larger needle size for just the M3 stitch, then switching back to your regular needle.
Miscounting Stitches
Keep track of your stitch count after each M3. Remember that one M3 adds two stitches to your total count.
How can you practice M3 effectively? Create a simple swatch with alternating rows of knit and purl stitches, incorporating M3 increases every few stitches. This will help you get comfortable with the technique and observe how it affects your fabric.
Advanced Applications of M3 in Knitting Design
For experienced knitters, M3 opens up a world of creative possibilities in design:
- Create three-dimensional flower petals or leaves in decorative knitting
- Use M3 as a foundation for complex cable patterns
- Incorporate M3 into modular knitting for unique geometric shapes
- Combine M3 with short rows for sculptural effects in garments
- Utilize M3 in brioche knitting for added texture and depth
Can M3 be adapted for use in machine knitting? While M3 is primarily a hand-knitting technique, skilled machine knitters may be able to simulate the effect using a combination of increases and hand-manipulation. However, the exact replication of M3 on a knitting machine can be challenging.
M3 in the Context of Knitting Abbreviations
Understanding knitting abbreviations is crucial for interpreting patterns correctly. Here’s how M3 fits into the broader context of knitting terminology:
| Abbreviation | Meaning | Effect |
|---|---|---|
| M3 | Make Three | Increases by 2 stitches |
| M1 | Make One | Increases by 1 stitch |
| K2tog | Knit Two Together | Decreases by 1 stitch |
| YO | Yarn Over | Increases by 1 stitch, creates a hole |
| SSK | Slip, Slip, Knit | Decreases by 1 stitch |
Why is it important to understand these abbreviations? Familiarity with knitting abbreviations allows you to read and execute patterns accurately, ensuring your finished project matches the designer’s intent. It also enables you to communicate effectively with other knitters and understand a wide range of knitting resources.
M3 is just one of many techniques that can elevate your knitting projects. By mastering this and other increases, decreases, and special stitches, you’ll expand your knitting repertoire and be able to tackle more complex and rewarding projects. Remember, practice is key to perfecting any knitting technique, so don’t be discouraged if your first attempts at M3 aren’t perfect. With time and patience, you’ll be incorporating this versatile stitch into your knitting with confidence and creativity.
Patricia Cantos Design Knitting Abbreviations
Basic knitting abbreviations:
CO cast on (video tutorial)
BO bind off. Also known as cast off (video tutorial)
K knit (video tutorial)
P purl (video tutorial)
st(s) stitch(es)
st st stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl)
garter st knit every row
RS right side of the work
WS wrong side of the work
[ ] work instructions within brackets as many times as directed
( ) work instructions inside parentheses in the place directed
* repeat instructions following the single asterisk as directed
* *repeat instructions following the asterisks as directed
Decreasing knitting abbreviations:
dec decrease
k2tog knit 2 together (right leaning decrease)
p2tog purl 2 together (right leaning decrease on right side of work)
sl slip stitch from one needle to the other without knitting it
psso pass slipped stitch over the stitch(es) just worked
ssk slip, slip, knit – slip first stitch knitwise, slip second stitch knitwise, insert left needle into slipped stitches from left to right and knit these two stitches together (left leaning decrease)
Increasing knitting abbreviations:
inc increase
kfb knit into the front and the back of the same stitch.
Knit into the stitch, then before slipping it off the needle, twist the right-hand needle behind the left-hand one and knit again into the back of the loop then slip the original stitch off the left-hand needle. (video tutorial)
M1 Make one stitch. Insert right-hand needle from front to back under the horizontal strand that runs between the stitches, insert the left-hand needle under the strand from front to back and knit (or purl) through the back of the loop, slip new stitch off the left-hand needle.
M3 Make three. [Knit one, purl one, knit one] all into the same stitch
yf yard forward. Bring yarn forward as if to purl a stitch, but then knit the stitch taking the yarn over the top of the needle (increase between 2 knit stitches)
yon yarn over needle. Take the yarn over the top of the needle, then between the needles to the front again and then purl the next stitch (increase between 2 purl stitches)
Knit into the stitch, then before slipping it off the needle, twist the right-hand needle behind the left-hand one and knit again into the back of the loop then slip the original stitch off the left-hand needle. (video tutorial)Other knitting abbreviations:
beg begin(ning)
cont.
alt alternate
foll following
est established
patt pattern
rem remaining
rep repeating
tbl through back of loop(s)
w+t wrap and turn (short row shaping technique). Slip the next stitch, bring yarn from back to front, slip the stitch back to the left-hand needle, turn the work.
K1B Knit one below. Insert the right-hand needle through the centre of the stitch below the next stitch on the left-hand needle and knit in the usual way slipping the stitch above off the needle at the same time.
continueCable stitch knitting abbreviations:
C2B Cable 2 back. Slip 1 stitch onto cable needle and hold at back, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle.
C2F Cable 2 front. Slip 1 stitch onto cable needle and hold at front, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle.
C4B Cable 4 back. Slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold at back, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle.
C4F Cable 4 front. Slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold at back, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle.
Colourwork knitting abbreviations:
MC main colour
CC contrast colour
How to knit a Christmas scarf for a woman
Women’s scarf knitting pattern
Step-by-step knitting instructions
Step 1
Cast on 27 stitches.
Step 2
1, 4, 5, 8, and 9 rows – knit all stitches to end
2, 3, 6, 7, and 10 rows – purl all stitches to end
11th row (right side) – skip1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p15, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1
Step 3
12th row (wrong side) – skip1, p1, k1, p3, k15, p3, k1, p1, k1
13th row – skip1, p1, k1, p1, pu1, k1, sd1, p3, m3, p5, m3, p3, k2tog, k1, pu1, p1, k1, p1, k1
14th row – skip1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, k3, p3, k5, p3, k3, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1
15th row – skip1, p1, k1, p2, pu1, k1, 1sd, p2, k3, p5, k3, p2, k2tog, k1, pu1, p2, k1, p1, k1
16th row – skip1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p2, k2, p3tog, k5, p3tog, k2, p2, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1
17th row – skip1, p1, k1, p3, pu1, k1, sd1, p4, m3, p4, k2tog, k1, pu1, p3, k1, p1, k1
18th row – skip1, p1, k1, p1, k3, p2, k4, p3, k4, p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k1
19th row – skip1, p1, k1, p4, pu1, k1, sd1, p3, k3, p3, k2tog, k1, pu1, p4, k1, p1, k1
20th row – skip1, p1, k1, p1, k4, p2, k3, p3tog, k3, p2, k4, p1, k1, p1, k1
21st row – skip1, p1, k1, p5, pu1, k1, sd1, p5, k2tog, k1, pu1, p5, k1, p1, k1
22nd row – skip1, p1, k1, p1, k5, p2, k5, p2, k5, p1, k1, p1, k1
23rd row – skip1, p1, k1, p6, pu1, k1, sd1, p3, k2tog, k1, pu1, p6, k1, p1, k1
24th row – skip1, p1, k1, p1, k6, p2, k3, p2, k6, p1, k1, p1, k1
25th row – skip1, p1, k1, p7, pu1, k1, sd1, p1, k2tog, k1, pu1, p7, k1, p1, k1
26th row – skip1, p1, k1, p1, k7, p2, k1, p2, k7, p1, k1, p1, k1
27th row – skip1, p1, k1, p8, pu1, k1, dsd, k1, pu1, p8, k1, p1, k1
28th row – skip1, p1, k1, p1, k8, p3, k8, p1, k1, p1, k1
29th row – skip1, p1, k1, p9, pu1, dsd, pu1, p9, k1, p1, k1
Repeat that until you reach the desired length of the scarf.
Step 4
Repeat step 3.
Step 5
Cast off, cut the yarn, and secure it.
Top-Down Chevron Stitch Camisole
Cotton Knit Top – Free Knitting Pattern
This summer cami is knitted in two pieces from the top down.
Yarn-over increases in combination with stitch decreases create a nice laced chevron stitch version. Vertical eyelet lines will make you look slimmer.
A contrasting crocheted trim accentuates and brightens a light primary color.
SIZE
Women’s S [M, L, XL, XXL, XXXL]
Small [Medium, Large, Extra Large, 2 Extra Large, 3 Extra Large]
Level of skills
Intermediate
Stitches
Knit, purl, yarn over, ssk, k2tog
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 32 [36, 40, 44, 48, 52]”
Length (center front/back): 13 [13, 14, 14, 15, 15]”
YARN
Worsted medium-weight cotton, bamboo or acrylic yarn
Primary color: 2 [2.
3, 2.7, 3, 3.5, 4] skeins (125 yds /1.76 oz /50 g each)
Total 250 [288, 338, 375, 438, 500] yds
Secondary (edging) color: 11 [12, 13, 14, 15, 16] yds
RECOMMENDED NEEDLES
US #8 (5 mm) 14-15” straight needles or 24-29” circular needle
NOTIONS
5 stitch markers
Yarn needle for seams and edging
4- or 5-mm crochet hook for edging
GAUGE
16 sts in stockinette /22 rows = 4″/10 cm
18 sts in chevron stitch /22 rows = 4″/10 cm
ABBREVIATIONS
k: knit
p: purl
yo: yarn over
st(s): stitch(es)
rs: right side
ws: wrong side
k2tog: knit two sts together through front loops with right slant
ssk: slip st, slip next st, knit 2 slipped sts together with left slant
m: marker (numbered as m1, m2, etc.
)
pm: place marker
sm: slip marker to right needle
NOTES
It is enough to make a swatch in the above stockinette stitch; with the right gauge in the stockinette, your chevron stitch will be correct too.
Right side: odd rows. Wrong side: even rows.
TUTORIAL
FRONT / BACK (identical)
Cast on 72 [80, 88, 98, 106, 114] sts.
Row 1 (rs):
k7 [9, 10, 11, 12, 13], pm1, yo, k8 [10, 11, 13, 14, 15],
ssk, k1, pm2, k1, k2tog, k14 [14, 16, 18, 20, 22], yo, k1, pm3,
k1, yo, k14 [14, 16, 18, 20, 22], ssk, k1, pm4,
k1, k2tog, k8 [10, 11, 13, 14, 15], yo, pm5, knit to end.
Row 2 (ws): knit.
Row 3: knit to m1, sm1, yo, knit to 3 sts before m2, ssk, k1, sm2, k1, k2tog, knit to 1 st before m3, yo, k1, sm3, k1, yo, knit to 3 sts before m4, ssk, k1, sm4, k1, k2tog, knit to m5, yo, sm5, knit to end.
Row 4: knit.
Row 5: rep row 3.
Row 6 and following wrong side rows to 2 last rows: purl.
Next rows until length at center measures 8 [8, 9, 9, 10, 10]”: rep row 3 on rs and purl on ws.
Each of next 5 right side rows: knit to m1, sm1, yo, knit to 3 sts before m2, ssk, k1, sm2, k1, k2tog, *yo, k2tog, rep from * to 1 st before m3, yo, k1, sm3, k1, yo, **ssk, yo, rep from ** to 3 sts before m4, ssk, k1, sm4, k1, k2tog, knit to m5, yo, sm5, knit to end.
Resume previous pattern (rep row 3 on rs and purl on ws) on following rows and continue until length at center measures 12.5 [12.5, 13.5, 13.5, 14.5, 14.5]”.
Last 4 rows: rep row 3 on rs and knit on ws.
Bind off knit-wise on rs.
FINISHING
Blocking and Sewing
Steam-block the knitted pieces. Sew the side seams with a yarn needle.
Edging and Straps
Using a crochet hook, work upper edging with secondary color yarn in the round:
*(1 slip crochet st, 4 chain sts) twice in same knitted st, rep from *, end 1 slip crochet st to connect to 1st st of round.
Cut off 2 strands of secondary color yarn each approx. 34 [38, 42, 46, 50, 54]” long.
Using a yarn needle, draw one of the strands through the bottom rows making long dashes around.
Repeat this step at the upper edge. Adjust their circumference if necessary.
Cut both primary and secondary yarn for 4 straps. Every strap consists of 2 strands of each yarn 16 [17, 18, 19, 20, 21]” long (total 4 strands per strap). Pull straps through respective triangular edges. Tie and trim them after trying the top on.
MORE PATTERNS
Summer Tops
Sweaters and Tunics
Vests
Vintage Patterns
Baby Sleep Sack | AllFreeKnitting.com
CO 4, PM1, CO 6, PM2, CO 28, PM3, CO6, PM4, CO 4 (48)
Row1 (WS): Purl slipping markers as you come to them.
Row 2 (RS): Kfb, k to one stitch before M1, kfb, sm, kfb, k to one stitch before M2, kfb, sm, kfb, k to one stitch before M3, kfb, sm, kfb k to one stitch before M4, kfb, sm, kfb, k to one stitch before end, kfb. (10 sts inc).
Row 3: Purl slipping markers as you come to them.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 two more times (78)
Row 9: CO 8, k to k to one stitch before M1, kfb, sm, kfb, k to one stitch before M2, kfb, sm, kfb, k to one stitch before M3, kfb, sm, kfb k to one stitch before M4, kfb, sm, kfb, k to end.
Row 10: CO 8, p to end.
Row 11: K to one stitch before M1, kfb, sm, kfb, k to one stitch before M2, kfb, sm, kfb, k to one stitch before M3, kfb, sm, kfb k to one stitch before M4, kfb, slm kfb, k to end.
Row 12: Purl
Repeat rows 11 and 12 until you have 148(172, 196) total stitches.
Divide for sleeves:
Row 1: K to Ml, remove m, using tapestry needle and waste yarn, slip all sts between M1 and M2 onto waste yarn to hold for Left sleeve.
CO 6, pm, CO6, and join to back, knit across back to M3, remove M and transfer all sts between M3 and M4 onto waste yarn for right sleeve as for left sleeve, CO 6, pm, CO 6 and join to front sts, k to end.
Markers are now located at underarm seam location.
Continue to work in stockinette st for 17 more rows ending with wsr.
Inc row: *K to m, LLI, sm, RLI; rep from * once more, k to end.
Work in Stockinette st working Inc row every 6th row 5 more times. (24 sts inc)
Continue in Stockinette st until work measures 18 (24, 30)” from CO (or 2” less than desired total length.) ending with wsr.
Next row: Kto end, pm, join to work in the round.
K one rnd.
Dec rnd: *K to 2 sts before underarm marker, k2tog, sm, ssk; rep from * once more, k to end of rnd.
Rep dec rnd every other round 9 more times (40 sts dec).
Option 1: BO all stitches and sew front to back at bottom edge.
Option 2: Join front to back by using Kitchener Stitch.
Option 3 (used in the sample): Turn garment inside out and join front to back using 3 needle bind off.
Neckband:
Using smaller circular needle, with rs facing, beginning at right neck edge, pu 14 sts from front, 6 sts along sleeve, 28 sts, across back, 6 sts along sleeve, and 14 sts from left front.
Work in ribbing for 1”.
BO in ribbing.
Zipper slit reinforcement:
Using smaller circular needle, with rs facing, beginning at right neck edge, pu 1 st for each row along right front, 1 st at join, and 1 st along each row of left front.
Turn work and BO all stitches Knitwise.
Sleeves:
Slip[ the sleeve sts onto 2 of the larger dpn. With rs facing you join yarn to right edge of underarm and use a third needle,to pu 6 sts, pm (this is the underarm seam marker), pu 6 sts.
K1rnd slipping some the sts so that each needle has approximately the same number of stitches.
K7 rnds even.
Dec rnd: K1, ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog.
Rep dec rnd every 8 rnds 4(6,7) more times (28, 30,34 sts remain).
Work even until sleeve meas 5 ½ (6 ½ ,7)” or 1 ½ less than desired length.
Change to small dpn and work rib for 1 1/2”.
BO in rib.
Finishing
Pin zipper in place keeping fronts away from teeth. Sew in place by hand or by machine.
Weave in ends.
Because I used acrylic yarn, instead of blocking, I simply ran it through the washing machine before gifting. This evens out the stitches and softens the garment.
I hope you enjoy this pattern.
Consumption of knitting wire per 1 ton of reinforcement for reinforcement
A frame made of reinforcing bars, connected by welding or wire, serves as a load-bearing basis for reinforced concrete elements. Each of these docking methods has advantages and disadvantages. Welding weakens the reinforcement, moreover, it negatively affects the ability to withstand the forces of soil heaving.
With the help of high-quality knitting wire, they create stable structures for foundations of various types and other building elements.
Approximate determination of the consumption of knitting wire for reinforcement
The required amount of wire depends on the dimensions of the frame, the diameter and the pitch of the longitudinal and transverse reinforcing bars. There are no official norms for the consumption of knitting wire. In each case, this value is determined approximately or more accurately – by calculation. Without reference to a specific type of reinforcing structure, it is impossible to determine the consumption of knitting wire per 1 m3 of concrete or 1 m2 of area.
Attention! General recommendation: the purchase of wire is approximately 1.5 times the amount determined theoretically. This is due to the high probability of wire breakage when tying knots. For products with a diameter of 1.2 mm, the margin should be made even larger.
Methods of approximate calculation of the required amount of production, determined empirically:
- per 1 ton of reinforcement, the consumption of knitting wire is from 10 to 20 kg;
- for knitting one knot takes from 10 to 50 cm of the product, the specific amount depends on the diameter of the reinforcement and the tool used for knitting.
Adjusted determination of wire consumption for reinforcement
For a more accurate determination of the required amount of this product, in each case, the wire consumption per node is calculated. For this, the diameter of the reinforcing bar and the number of strapping points are taken into account. For example, at the point where two horizontal rods intersect with one vertical one, two nodes are made. The thinner the wire, the greater its consumption due to the need to make several turns around the reinforcing bars.
Advice! To connect two rods with a cross-section of 10 mm, a piece of wire of about 25 cm is required, three – 50 cm.
After determining the wire consumption per knot, the result is multiplied by the number of knots. To buy the required amount of wire, it is advisable to know the mass of one meter and the footage of 1 kg.
| Wire diameter, mm | Weight of 1 m wire, kg | Wire length in 1 kg, m |
| 0.6 | 0.002 | 450.45 |
| 0.8 | 0.004 | 253.17 |
| 1.0 | 0.006 | 162.0 |
| 1.2 | 0.009 | 112.6 |
| 1.4 | 0.012 | 82.6 |
| 1.6 | 0.015 | 65.4 |
| 1.8 | 0.022 | 50.0 |
| 2.0 | 0.028 | 40.5 |
Coat for the dog “The Lookout”
Warm dog coat will help your pet to go for walks in cold winter.
Dimensions:
XS (Chihuahua), S (Bichon Frize), M (Cocker Spaniel)
Chest circumference – 28-32 (40-44, 48-52) cm,
Back length – 24 (32, 40).
Required materials:
Yarn Drops Karisma (100% wool; 100 m / 50 grams in a skein) – 2 (2, 3) skeins.
Tools Required:
Circular knitting needles # 3 and # 4, 40 cm long, double-edged needles # 3, stitch markers.
Knitting density:
21 loops and 28 rows = 10 cm of the front surface, made with needles No. 4.
Remark:
The coat is knitted from the neck down in circular rows.
Start of knitting:
Cast on 60 (80: 100) sts with double-edged needles. Connect the loops in a circular row and place a marker for the beginning of the row (the beginning of the row is on the stomach).
Row of elastic: [K2, purl 2] – to the end of the row.
Repeat this row until the elastic reaches 8 (10, 12) cm.
This part is the collar, which is then turned away to form two layers.
Change the needles to No. 4.
Knit 1 circular row with knit stitches, adding 16 (32, 54) sts evenly – on needles 76 (112, 154) sts.
Start knitting of the main pattern:
Only for size XS:
1st circular row: pattern M2, purl 2, pattern M2, purl 3, pattern M3, pattern M2, pattern M1 (this is the middle of the back), pattern M2, pattern M3, 3 purl loops.
DIAGRAMS
Only for size S:
1st circular row: * drawing M2, 2 purl loops; repeat from * 1 more time, drawing M2, * drawing M3, drawing M2; repeat from * 1 more time, drawing M1 (this is the middle of the back), * drawing M2, drawing M3; repeat from * 1 more time.
Only for size M:
1st circular row: * drawing M2, 2 purl loops; repeat from * 2 more times, drawing M2, * drawing M3, drawing M2; repeat from * 2 more times, drawing M1 (this is the middle of the back), * drawing M2, drawing M3; repeat from * 2 more times.
For all sizes:
The 1st circle sets the location of the patterns. Continue knitting in the prescribed order until the length of knitting reaches 12 (16, 20) cm.
Front feet holes:
Slip the first 10 (16, 22) sts onto the stitch holder (this is on the belly), bind off 1 as purl, knit to the end of the row. Turn the knitting and knit the next section of the back in straight and reverse rows.
Next row: bind off 1 as purl, knit to end of row – 64 (94, 130) sts.
Knit 6 (8, 10) cm.Total length of knitting is 18 (24, 30) cm.
Remove the backrest hinges to another hinge holder.
Abdomen section:
Return the belly sts to the needles and cast on 1 st from each edge – 12 (18, 24) sts on the needles.
Continuing to knit in straight and reverse rows and knitting the outermost loops with the purl, continue to perform this section until it reaches a length of 6 (8, 10) cm.
Middle section:
Return all sts to needles – 76 (112, 154) sts.
Then knit in circular rows until the length of knitting reaches 24 (31, 38) cm.
Cast off 12 (20, 28) sts in center of abdomen – on needles 64 (92, 126) sts.
Continue to knit back in straight and back rows.
Bottom edge:
Continue knitting, closing as follows:
Bind off 3 loops at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 4 (6, 8) rows.
Cast off 1 st at beg of next 4 (6, 8) rows.
Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 4 (6, 8) rows.
Cast off 3 loops at beg of next 2 rows – on needles 32 (50, 74) loops.
The length of knitting is 30 (39, 48) cm.
Edge binding:
Slip remaining sts on circular needles # 3 and cast along edge until there are 84 (108, 140) stitches on the needles. Connect the loops in a circular row.
Row of elastic: [K2, purl 2] – to the end of the row.
Repeat this row until the elastic reaches 2 (3, 4) cm.
Loosely close all loops.
Foot holes:
Use double-edged needles to cast on 36 (44, 52) sts around the edge of the paw hole.
Row of elastic: [K2, purl 2] – to the end of the row.
Repeat this row until the elastic reaches 2 (3, 4) cm.
Loosely close all loops.
Description DROPS DESIGN dog coat translated from Knitting Magazine 2019.
Whoever stepped into the rank of a fox, that rank will be a wolf. Alisher Navoi
Author: Galina © All rights reserved
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Tags: Knitting with needles
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most likely from 3 to 7, depending on how wide the sample will be.
11.2009 
Until I got used to a new one, I still like all the clothes on a slender figure, and only after putting on I understand that it’s not for me anymore. Do you think this model is still acceptable for a large-sized person? Before knitting, I want to weigh all the pros and cons, otherwise it will be a pity for the time, I have a baby, and it’s so tight with time …
The thread is strange: it is soft and thin, but heavy, the recommended needles are 4-5 mm, but I liked the sample at 3k … I will try, think.
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.. well, this is for my size, 44-46. This is offhand, I have not knitted a sample yet
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75 cubic meters. Inexpensive shipping preferred
GOSTs regulating the brands of gasoline. 
Density is not used to assess fuel quality. It depends on the petroleum products that were used in the production of gasoline.
It is equipped with a measuring scale, built-in thermometer. The operation of the device is based on the Archimedes principle.
Thus, aromatic compounds have lower values compared to aliphatic ones.
