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DECORATIVE HANDKERCHIEF WITH LACE EDGE

Many centuries have passed since handkerchiefs were
handkerchiefs began to be bordered with lace and decorated with embroidery in the form of the owner’s monogram.
When small delicate rags turned into works of art,
it was simply a pity to use them for their intended purpose. In the 13th and 14th centuries the French
ladies used such scarves as a fan. Young girls coquettishly
put them on display so that at the right moment, as if inadvertently drop
and thereby attract the attention of the gentleman. Fashion for lace scarves has come to Russia
from Italy and France. They were sewn from the most delicate cambric, taffeta or silk and turned
fringe, tassels or border with gilded thread. These beautiful products
of her work, the bride gave gifts to the groom, future father-in-law and mother-in-law, matchmakers
and girlfriends. That was the custom. Scarves (or, as they were called in the old days
in Rus’, – fly) attached to a wedding suit to highlight the newlyweds
among the guests. Today, a scarf trimmed with lace
has not lost its relevance. He, as of old, looks elegant and noble.
You can make it with your own hands, decorating the edges with tatting shuttle lace
(the technique of weaving this lace was described in previous issues of the magazine
– see “Science and Life” Nos. 7, 10, 1992; No. 1, 1993). We offer several
tatting lace motifs. Any of them can be used not only as
decorative border for handkerchiefs, but also as a frame in other products.

A scarf with a lace border is not hidden deep in the pocket, but folded so that the corner is visible.

The lace border is woven into one thread with silk No. 33a according to scheme 1. The edges of the fabric are finished with a loop stitch without hem.

Scheme 1. This ancient lace pattern is woven with two shuttles in one row.

Fragment of lace corner 1 with dimensions of arcs and rings.

Lace is obtained in such an openwork, the pattern of which is shown in diagram 2. It is woven into two threads of the same color (1 thread of floss and 1 thread of silk No. 65a).

Scheme 2. Lace is woven in three rows.

Fragment of lace, made according to scheme 3. It is woven with a melange thread (1 thread of white floss and 1 thread of black silk No. 65a).

Scheme 3. Lace is woven in three rows.

Fragment of lace corner 3 with dimensions of arcs and rings.

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Decorative handkerchiefs, fragments of which
shown in the photos, made from natural chiffon and embellished with lace
tatting.

The fabric and trim of the handkerchief can be plain
or contrasting. The color scheme is a matter of taste.

Choose your favorite lace design and
weave it around the entire perimeter of the scarf in accordance with the diagram.

Optimum handkerchief size approx. 15 x
15 cm or more. Why about? The lace pattern will determine the exact
product size.

Steam and iron the fabric for the handkerchief.
Then pin the lace on it very evenly on all sides, so that it
a little found on the edges of the matter. Pull out along the lines of the inner edges of the lace
from all four sides of the fabric, one thread each. Chip off the lace and, stepping back
2.5 mm above the threads pulled out (that is, outside the size of the handkerchief), cut
the edges of the fabric. Fold the extra 2.5 mm in half and finish the folded edges
frequent buttonhole stitch with a thread that was used to weave lace, or silk No. 65a. If
fabric allows, then the edges of the scarf can be processed on the machine with a zigzag seam
or overlock.

Now that the lace is tied, cut out
scarf and its edges are processed, take a dense, even piece of fabric, pin
a handkerchief on it and absolutely exactly to it – your lace. Gently without pulling
thread, sew the lace to the fabric of the scarf.

Another connection method can be offered
lace with scarf fabric. Finish the edges of the scarf first, then start
weave lace and in the process of weaving connect it with a picot to the fabric.
However, this method is acceptable if you are sure that the size of the lace
exactly matches the size of the scarf.

“Machining a simple patch pocket. Features of processing a simple patch pocket with trim, piping, lace.”

Machining a simple patch pocket. Features of processing a simple patch pocket with trim, piping, lace. WTO.

Patch pockets in outerwear products are widely used and are very diverse in shape, size, finish, processing methods and connection with product shelves. The whole process of processing such pockets can be divided into two stages: the first is the processing of the pockets themselves, the second is the connection of pockets with shelves.

Finishing pockets

Marking and fitting pockets . The locations of the patch pockets on the shelves are marked on the auxiliary patterns with three lines: one – the position of the upper edge, two – the position of the sides.

If the pocket is connected to the shelf with a stitching seam, mark the position of the pocket on the template on the shelf. For the correct connection, control lines are additionally applied in the corners, with which the corresponding control notches on the pockets are combined when attaching the pockets to the shelves.
In products made of fabric with a pattern of stripes or checks, pockets are cut out with an allowance for fitting the pattern. In these cases, the pockets are placed on the shelves, combining the pattern on the pockets with the pattern on the shelves, then the pockets are refined according to the auxiliary pattern and cut off, leaving an allowance for processing the edges.

Finishing the top edges of pockets .

In appearance, the upper edges of the pockets can be unfinished or finished in the form of leaflets – detachable or one-piece with pockets, with shackles; in shape – the edges can be straight or curved.
The top edges of pockets without leaflets are processed by laying a glue or linen edge. The adhesive edge is glued with an iron, the linen edge is sewn along the outer edge of the edge, placing it along the intended hem line of the upper edge of the pocket towards the hem allowance.
In pockets with straight top edges (fig. 36, a), the hem allowance is ironed towards the wrong side of the parts and sewn to the pockets on a blind stitch machine with a hem of 0.5 – 0.7 cm. In cotton products fabrics, most often the ironed edges are sewn on a grinding machine simultaneously with the hem of the cut edges by 0.7 cm.
Pockets with curvilinear edges (Fig. 36, b) are processed with facings cut out according to the shape of the upper edge of the pocket. At the same time, the edge is sewn, slightly pulling it. The seam allowances are notched, folded to the side of the inside of the pockets and ironed, forming an edging from the material of the pockets with a width of 0.2 – 0.3 cm. The cut edges of the facings are sewn to the pockets in the same way as described above. The upper edges of the pockets are sewn with a finishing stitch, if it is provided for by the model.

Pockets with uncut leaflets are marked from the inside with two lines. Along one line, which determines the width of the allowance per leaflet, the pocket is folded with the front side inward and built up at a distance of 0.5 cm from the fold (Fig. 36, c). The edge is laid along the second line, which defines the hem line of the upper edge of the pocket. The leaflet is folded towards the inside of the pocket, ironed, the edge cut is folded inward by 0.5 – 0.7 cm and sewn to the pocket manually or on a blind stitch machine.
Pockets with cut straight leaflets are processed by laying the edge along the marking line on the leaflets (Fig. 36, d). The leaflet is stitched to the pocket with a seam of 0.5 – 1.0 cm, depending on the properties of the fabric, the seams are ironed, and then ironed towards the leaflet. The leaflet is folded and ironed, the trimmed edges are sewn to the pocket with the edges folded manually or on a special machine. In lined pockets, the lining is sewn to the cut edges of the leaf.
In pockets with cut-off curly leaves , the leaves are first ironed along the lower edges on special templates, and then put on the upper edges of the pockets and adjusted in accordance with the style.
In products made of thin, most often cotton, fabrics, the leaves are sewn to the upper cut-pockets, bent to the front side to form an edging from the material of the leaflet. The cut edges of the leaflet are folded and stitched.

Finishing side and bottom edges of pockets . Processing depends on the way the pockets are connected to the shelves and on the style of the pocket. If the pockets are connected to the shelves with a stitched seam, then the side and bottom edges are not processed. If the pockets are connected to the shelves with an overlay seam, then the side and bottom edges are swept up with hand stitches or on a special machine and ironed or folded and pressed in with a folding press (folding press).

When folding the edges with a folding press, the pocket is placed face down on the base of the press. An internal template is applied to the pocket. The outer templates of the folding press are folded over and the edges of the pocket are pressed in. With this processing, the bend is made to a small width (Fig. 37, a).
If, according to the model, the edges of the pockets should be retractable and the width of the fold should be more than 1.0 cm, then, before tacking, the lower edges in the corners are ground down with a seam 0.5 cm wide and the seams are ironed. The corners are turned out, the edges are swept and ironed, straightening the inflection along the marking lines on the front side of the pockets (Fig. 37, b).

If the patch pocket is lined, the side and bottom edges of the pocket are processed by turning them on three sides and leaving an unsharpened hole on the side. Through it, the pocket is turned inside out on the front side, the edges are straightened, and the hole is sewn up with hand hemming stitches (Fig. 37, c).

Machining patch pockets with welt entry . Cuts on patch pockets are treated in the same way as on welt pockets with or without flaps. The ends of the processed cuts are fixed from the inside with three lines. The lining of the pockets is sewn to the lower edges of the facings. The lower edges of the pocket cut are adjusted. The upper edges of the pockets are swept to the wrong side and ironed.

Connecting pockets with shelves

Before connecting patch pockets with shelves in products, pieces of adhesive or non-adhesive cushioning fabric are laid on the lining from the inside of the shelves in the areas where the ends of the pocket are located.

Stitching pockets with shelves . If the pocket is lined, then the lining is sewn before connecting to the shelf. To do this, it is placed on the shelf face down, the upper edge of the lining is folded up by 1.0 cm and stitched on three sides with a seam 0.7 – 1.0 cm wide, securing the ends with a double reverse stitch.
The pocket is placed on the shelf inside out, aligning the top edge and side cut with the corresponding lines on the shelf and stitched with a seam 0. 5 – 0.7 cm wide, aligning the control notches in the corners of the pockets with the control lines on the shelves (Fig. 38, a) .
The upper edges of the lining are connected to the pockets with hand hemming stitches 0.2 – 0.3 cm long. The upper edges of the pockets are sewn to the shelves on both sides in a section 0.5 – 1.0 cm long also with hand blind stitches. Pockets are adjusted if required by the model.
Joining pockets with shelves with a seam on the sewing machine . If the pocket is unlined, it is placed on the shelf along the marking lines and stitched along the edges with one or two lines. The ends of the seams are fixed with a double reverse stitch. The upper edges of the pockets are sewn to the shelves with hand stitches 0.3 cm long along the entire width of the folded edges. In pockets with leaflets, the ends of the pockets are fixed with lines made parallel to the main line at a distance of 0.2 cm from it along the entire width of the leaflet.

If the pockets are lined, then first the lining is sewn to the trimmed folded edge of the pocket or leaflet. Then the lining is sewn to the shelves, placing it along the marking lines on the shelves. The width of the stitching seam is 0.7 – 1.0 cm when sewing without bending the lining sections. The sections of the lining can be folded towards the inside of the lining by 0.7 – 1.0 cm, then the stitching seam width can be 0.2 – 0.3 cm from the folded edges. Pockets are placed on the shelves and adjusted in the same way as unlined pockets.

Joining pockets with shelves with a patch seam using glue . On the ironed side and bottom sides of the pockets, an adhesive film 0.3–0.4 cm wide is laid on a special machine at a distance of 0.1 cm from the folded edges. The pockets are placed on the shelves and connected by pressing, after which the finishing line is performed.
Pockets without finishing stitching on the lining are glued to the shelves in the following way. First, the pocket lining is sewn (Fig. 38, b), fixing the ends of the upper edges with three or four reverse stitches, then the pocket is connected to the shelf by pressing (Fig. 38, c).

Ironing pockets . The pockets are ironed from the wrong side, and then from the front side through the gasket on the press with a special shoe or manually with an iron.

Finishing a patch pocket with trim, piping, frill or lace .

The trim for the patch pocket is cut in width depending on the model, it consists of two parts (outer and inner). The parts of the finishing inlay are folded with the front sides inward, equalizing the cuts, and the upper and outer edges are turned. The width of the seam is 0.5 cm. The inlay is turned right side out, the corners and seams are straightened and ironed, forming a piping 0.1 cm wide towards the inside. According to the auxiliary pattern on the inlay, a line is drawn for stitching it to the pocket.
The piping strip is folded along the middle with the right side inward and the ends are turned. The width of the seam is 0.5 – 0.7 cm, the seams in the corners are cut, the corners are turned to the front side, the cuts of the piping strip are leveled and ironed. Instead of turning, the upper ends of the piping strip can be ironed with a 1 cm inward hem. Ruffles or lace form an assembly along the edge of the stitching.

In products made of woolen and silk fabrics, the cut of the hem allowance along the upper edge of the pocket is bent towards the wrong side by 0.5 – 0.7 cm and stitched at a distance of 0.1 – 0.2 cm from the folded edge. The prepared inlay, edging, frill or lace is placed on the front side of the pocket face down, combining the upper ends of the inlay, edging, frill or lace with the intended fold line of the upper edge of the pocket, basted, attached with pins or stitched.

The hem allowance along the upper edge of the pocket is folded to the front side along the intended line, the cut of the allowance in cotton fabrics is folded towards the wrong side of the allowance by 0.5 – 0.7 cm and the corners of the pocket are turned, while sewing the inlay, piping , frill or lace.