How to string a mid low pocket. 15 Effective Lower Back Exercises for Strength and Pain Relief

How can you strengthen your lower back to prevent pain. What exercises target the erector spinae muscles. Which low back workouts improve spinal health and mobility. How often should you perform lower back exercises for optimal results.

Understanding the Importance of Lower Back Strength

The lower back, often overlooked in fitness routines, plays a crucial role in our overall health and well-being. Comprising the erector spinae muscles, this area is responsible for maintaining proper spinal structure and supporting daily movements. Strengthening these muscles can significantly reduce the risk of injuries and alleviate chronic pain.

Why is lower back strength so important? The erector spinae muscles act as natural stabilizers for our spine, enabling us to perform various activities like bending, lifting, and even maintaining proper posture. Without adequate strength in this area, we become more susceptible to strains, sprains, and other debilitating conditions.

Benefits of Lower Back Workouts

Incorporating lower back exercises into your fitness routine offers numerous advantages:

• Improved posture and spinal alignment
• Enhanced core stability
• Reduced risk of lower back injuries
• Increased flexibility and range of motion
• Better overall physical performance

Regular lower back workouts can help prevent muscle imbalances, which are often the root cause of back pain and discomfort. By strengthening these muscles, you create a solid foundation for your entire body, supporting proper movement patterns and reducing the strain on other muscle groups.

15 Effective Lower Back Exercises for Strength and Mobility

To help you build a stronger, more resilient lower back, here are 15 exercises that target the erector spinae and surrounding muscles. Incorporate these movements into your existing workout routine or combine them for a comprehensive lower back workout.

1. Upward Facing Dog

This yoga-inspired exercise helps stretch and strengthen the entire back, including the lower region.

1. Lie face down on the ground with your hands beside your chest.
2. Press your palms into the floor and lift your head, neck, and chest.
3. Keep your legs extended and the tops of your feet pressed into the ground.
4. Hold for a breath, then lower back down.
5. Repeat for 10 repetitions.

2. Downward Facing Dog

Another yoga staple, this pose engages the entire posterior chain, including the lower back muscles.

1. Start in a plank position with shoulders over wrists.
2. Lift your hips towards the ceiling, forming an inverted V-shape.
3. Press your heels towards the ground (it’s okay if they don’t touch).
4. Return to plank position and repeat 10 times.

3. Marching Bridge

This exercise targets the lower back while also engaging the glutes and core muscles.

1. Lie on your back with knees bent and feet hip-width apart.
2. Lift your hips off the ground, creating a straight line from knees to shoulders.
3. Maintaining this position, lift one foot off the ground, then lower it.
4. Alternate legs, performing 5 “marches” per side.

4. V-Sit

The V-sit challenges your core and lower back muscles simultaneously.

1. Sit on the floor and lean back slightly.
2. Lift your legs to a tabletop position.
3. Extend your arms forward, parallel to the ground.
4. Straighten your legs to a 45-degree angle, forming a V-shape.
5. Hold for 10 seconds, focusing on engaging your core and lower back.

5. Superman

This exercise engages the entire posterior chain, from your upper back to your hamstrings.

1. Lie face down with arms extended forward and legs straight.
2. Simultaneously lift your arms, legs, and chest off the ground.
3. Hold for a few seconds, then lower back down.
4. Repeat for 10-15 repetitions.

Advanced Lower Back Strengthening Techniques

As you progress in your lower back strengthening journey, consider incorporating these more challenging exercises into your routine.

6. Swimmers

This dynamic exercise improves spinal strength and mobility while engaging the entire back.

1. Lie face down with arms extended forward and legs straight.
2. Lift your right arm and left leg simultaneously.
3. Lower them as you lift your left arm and right leg.
4. Continue alternating for 10 repetitions on each side.

7. Good Mornings

Good mornings target the lower back and hamstrings, improving overall posterior chain strength.

1. Stand with feet hip-width apart, hands behind your head.
2. Hinge at the hips, lowering your torso towards the floor.
3. Keep your back straight and core engaged throughout the movement.
4. Return to the starting position and repeat for 10-12 reps.

Incorporating Lower Back Exercises into Your Routine

To maximize the benefits of these exercises, it’s essential to incorporate them into your fitness routine strategically. Consider the following tips:

• Perform lower back exercises 2-3 times per week
• Start with 1-2 sets of each exercise and gradually increase
• Focus on proper form to prevent injury and maximize results
• Combine lower back exercises with core and glute work for a balanced approach

Is it necessary to perform all 15 exercises in one session? Not at all. Start by selecting 3-5 exercises that you feel comfortable with and gradually add more as your strength and endurance improve. Remember to listen to your body and avoid pushing through pain or discomfort.

The Role of Stretching in Lower Back Health

While strengthening exercises are crucial for lower back health, incorporating stretches can further enhance flexibility and reduce the risk of injury. Consider adding these stretches to your routine:

8. Cat-Cow Stretch

1. Start on your hands and knees in a tabletop position.
2. Inhale, arching your back and lifting your chest (Cow pose).
3. Exhale, rounding your spine and tucking your chin (Cat pose).
4. Repeat for 10-15 cycles, focusing on breath and movement synchronization.

9. Child’s Pose

1. Kneel on the floor with your toes together and knees apart.
2. Sit back on your heels and extend your arms forward.
3. Lower your chest towards the ground, feeling a stretch in your lower back.
4. Hold for 30-60 seconds, breathing deeply.

Nutrition and Hydration for Lower Back Health

Exercise alone isn’t enough to maintain a healthy lower back. Proper nutrition and hydration play crucial roles in muscle recovery and overall spinal health.

Key Nutrients for Lower Back Health

• Calcium: Supports bone health and muscle function
• Magnesium: Aids in muscle relaxation and reduces inflammation
• Vitamin D: Enhances calcium absorption and supports bone strength
• Omega-3 fatty acids: Reduce inflammation and support joint health

How much water should you drink to support lower back health? Aim for at least 8-10 glasses of water per day, more if you’re physically active or in hot climates. Proper hydration helps maintain the fluid content in spinal discs, reducing the risk of herniation and other injuries.

The Impact of Posture on Lower Back Strength

While exercises and stretches are essential, maintaining good posture throughout the day is equally important for lower back health. Poor posture can lead to muscle imbalances, strain, and chronic pain.

Tips for Improving Posture

• Be mindful of your sitting position, especially during long work hours
• Use ergonomic chairs and standing desks to promote better alignment
• Take regular breaks to stand, stretch, and walk around
• Practice posture-focused exercises like wall slides and chin tucks

Can improving posture really make a difference in lower back pain? Absolutely. Many individuals experience significant relief from chronic back pain simply by adopting better posture habits and making ergonomic adjustments to their work environment.

When to Seek Professional Help

While these exercises and tips can significantly improve lower back health, it’s essential to recognize when professional help is needed. Consult a healthcare provider or physical therapist if you experience:

• Persistent or severe lower back pain
• Pain that radiates down your legs
• Numbness or tingling in your lower extremities
• Difficulty performing daily activities due to back pain

A professional can provide a tailored treatment plan, which may include specific exercises, manual therapy, or other interventions to address your unique needs.

By incorporating these lower back exercises, stretches, and lifestyle habits into your routine, you can build a stronger, more resilient spine. Remember to listen to your body, progress gradually, and celebrate the improvements in your strength and mobility. With consistency and patience, you’ll be well on your way to a healthier, pain-free lower back.

15 Exercises to Reduce Low Back Pain

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The low back isn’t typically an area people mention when wanting to tone and strengthen the body — but it is definitely an area I hear a lot of complaints about when back pain creeps up.

While it may not be a body part you want to tone for aesthetic reasons, taking the time to strengthen the low back now, can help prevent pain later. That’s why I always make sure to include exercises that target the low back into my own strength-training routine, and those I create for my clients.

The benefits of lower-back workouts

Also called the erector spinae, the muscles of the low back are responsible for maintaining the spine’s structure by holding it up. A strong low back helps prevent injuries and pain during motions such as bending forward and picking things up.

Like any muscle, unless we actively work the muscles of the low back, they will weaken over time. It’s not uncommon for someone to pull a muscle in this area due to muscle imbalances. That’s why it’s crucial to strengthen your low back muscles and core to prevent injury.

15 lower-back exercises

These exercises will strengthen the low back — add a few to your current strength training routine or string them all together for a low-back focused workout. 

Upward facing dog

Lie on the ground with your hands next to your chest as if you just lowered to the ground from a pushup. Pull your abs in, press the tops of your feet into the ground, and press your hands into the ground as you lift your head, neck, and chest up into upward facing dog. Roll the shoulders back and take a deep breath in, then exhale and lower down. Repeat 10 times.

Downward facing dog

Start in a plank position with your shoulders over your wrists. Pull your naval in toward your spine and reach your butt up toward the ceiling. Form a “V” with your body with your heels reaching down toward the ground. (It’s OK if they are off of the ground.) Come forward into plank position, and repeat 10 times.

Marching bridge

Lying on your back, bend your knees and open your feet as wide as your hips. Relax the arms by your sides. Pull the navel in toward the spine as if you’re zipping into a tight pair of pants. Slowly roll the hips, then low back, then mid-back up off the ground. Press down through the feet, then lift the right foot off the ground as if you’re beginning to march. Return the right foot to the ground and then lift your left foot. Keep the hips steady as you lift each foot off the ground. You can place your hands on your hips to ensure that they are staying stationary. March 5 times per foot.

V-sit

Seated on a mat, engage your core muscles and gently lean back a couple of inches. Slowly lift your legs up in the air so that are in a table-top position. Reach your arms straight out in front of you so that they are parallel with the mat. Keeping your core engaged, extend the legs straight up to a 45-degree angle, forming a “V” shape with your body. If you feel balanced here, attempt reaching your arms up toward the ceiling. You always have the option to leave them straight out in front of you. Hold this position for 10 seconds. Keep the shoulders relaxed, abs pulled in and the inner thighs squeezing together.

Superman

This exercise engages the entire back of the body, from the upper back to the bottom of the legs. Lifting up into this position teaches the back to work together in tandem, with the shoulders lifting the arms and the glutes, hamstrings and muscles of the back working to lift the legs. Lie on your stomach and reach the arms forward and legs back. Open the legs as wide as the hips and the arms as wide as the shoulders. Pull the belly button in, away from the ground, to engage the abs. Relax the shoulders as you reach the arms up off the ground and squeeze the quads as you lift the legs off the ground. Avoid putting too much pressure on the low back by ensuring that the abdominals stay contracted. All the muscles in the back of the body will be engaged, from the calves up to the upper back muscles. 

Swimmers

This exercise trains the back of the body to work in opposition to improve balance, spinal strength and mobility. Similar to the superman exercise, you’ll start by lying down on your stomach. This time, instead of reaching up both arms and legs simultaneously, you’ll lift the right arm and the left leg off the ground, and then alternate. Be sure to pull the abs in the entire time. Perform 10 repetitions on each side. 

Good mornings

Stand with your feet hip-distance apart and hands behind your head. Add a slight bend to your knees, tucking your pelvis under and engaging your core. Keeping your back straight, hinge at the hips, lowering your torso toward the floor. Slowly lower down until your upper body is parallel with the floor, pause, and then return back to the starting position. Repeat for 10 repetitions.

Bird dog

Begin in a tabletop position with hands and knees on the floor. Engage your core and try to keep your hips stable as you extend your opposite arm and opposite leg out. Pause for a few seconds, maintaining your balance. Return back to the starting position. Repeat with the opposite arm and leg. Continue alternating for 10 repetitions on each side.

Glute bridge

Lie on your back with your feet flat on the floor and knees bent. Engage your core, pressing your low back into the ground. Then, slowly curl your back off the ground driving your hips toward the sky. Do not hyperextend your back by lifting up too high. Stop when your hips have created a straight line from your knees to your upper back. Hold the position, then slowly lower back down to the starting position. Repeat for 10 repetitions.

Forearm plank

Start on your hands and knees on the mat. Line your shoulders up over your wrists. Come down on to your forearms and walk your knees back a few inches. Pull your navel in toward your spine, tuck your toes under and lift your legs up off of the ground. Squeeze your quads and reach your heels toward the back of the room. If you have a mirror, check yourself out to ensure that you’re in one straight line! Engage your core, maintaining a straight back. Hold the position for 30 seconds. Rest, then repeat.

Dumbbell-free renegade rows

Start in a high-plank position. Engage your core before raising one of your hands off of the ground, pulling your hand up to your shoulder and hugging your elbow in toward your side to engage your upper back. Return to the starting position, then repeat the movement with the other arm. Complete 10 repetitions on each arm.

Cat cow

Start on your hands and knees with your hands flat on the ground below your shoulders and knees directly below your hips. Move into cow by breathing in, dropping your stomach toward the floor and looking up toward the ceiling, arching your back. Exhale as your move into cat pose, pulling your belly button toward your spine and rounding your back up toward the ceiling. Let your head drop toward the ground. Repeat 10 times.

Pilates half rolldown

Seated on the ground, bend your knees. (For a more advanced exercise, straighten your legs.) Then, reach your arms out in front of you with the shoulders relaxed. Pull the naval in toward the spine and slowly roll down onto your low back. Pause and then slowly roll back up to the starting position. Repeat 10 times.

Side forearm plank

From a forearm plank position, turn your body to the left, balancing your weight on your right forearm and the edge of the right foot. Reach your left arm up into air, keeping the elbow bent. Stack your left foot on top of the right and pull your right side up away from the ground to work the entire right side of your body. Come back to forearm plank and repeat on the other side. Continue alternating sides, performing 10 repetitions on each side.

Cobra

Lie face down on a yoga mat. Place both palms flat on the mat directly beneath your shoulders. Add a bend to your elbows, keeping them tucked into your sides. Inhale, then raise your chest off the mat as you exhale. Roll your shoulders back, keeping your neck neutral. Maintain the position for up to 30 seconds.

X-Mid 1 – Durston

• Description

• Concept

• Video

• Specs

• FAQ

• Pitching

• Awards

Description

Orders
The X-Mid 1 is sold by our partners at Kaviso. These tents are in stock now. To order please visit X-Mid 1 at Kaviso.com. 
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Awarded one of the best backpacking tents by OutdoorGearLab, The Trek, and Section Hiker, the patented X-Mid^TM is developed from the first principles of geometry to achieve the most weight efficient design for a trekking pole shelter. The X-Mid is exceptionally capable and stormworthy, while anything lighter is smaller, lower function, and/or using less durable materials. Now redesigned for 2022, the second generation X-Mid 1 is also substantially more spacious.

The X-Mid 1 is spacious, easy to pitch, and highly stormworthy for only 1.75 lbs (28oz / 795 g). It excels in wet weather thanks to a fly first pitch, full doublewall design, no-sag poly fabric, large adjustable vents, factory seam taping, a full-coverage fly (blocks rain splatter and drafts), and protected entryways (rain won’t fall inside). No other tent can claim that list.

The X-Mid is also highly user friendly thanks to obsessive attention to detail and extensive real world validation. Unlike most trekking pole tents, the rectangle based X-Mid offers a simple 4 stake pitch with no mandatory guylines, no struts, and no measuring pole heights. Once pitched, the user friendliness continues with large doorways that aren’t blocked by poles and easy one handed operating zippers.

In addition to the highest performance design, the X-Mid boasts the highest quality. It is assembled at arguably the best tent factory in the world using premium components, laser cut fabric panels, full double stitching, double folded edges, and generous bartacking. We’re not aware of any other trekking pole tent that uses full double stitching and true double folded edges. While this premium quality gives the X-Mid a higher cost of production than comparable tents, the X-Mid 1 is priced lower simply because we sell it to you direct with only a modest markup.

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Orders
The X-Mid 1 is sold by our partners at Kaviso. These tents are in stock now. To order please visit X-Mid 1 at Kaviso.com. 

Concept

The goal with the X-Mid was to start with a clean sheet of paper and reason from there to create the optimal trekking pole supported shelter – one that offers maximal functionality, space, storm resistance, and simplicity at the lowest weight.

The most fundamental – and thus first – design question was: What shape should form the tent’s base? Most trekking pole supported tents are based around hexagons or even more complicated shapes, but as the number of sides increases, so does pitching complexity, number of seams, stakes, and weight. Typically pitching these complex tents require estimates of stake locations, angles, distances between stakes, measuring pole lengths, and estimating pole positions. Setting that up can be fun in the backyard but not fun in a rainstorm. The X-Mid eliminates most of this guesswork by opting for a rectangle base – by far the easiest shape to stake out.

The challenge with the rectangle – and reason why it hasn’t been used more historically – is that it’s hard to implement a good trekking pole structure. Most prior rectangle-based tents have been single-pole pyramids, which are lauded for their simplicity but lack headroom, and the single pole near the center typically interferes in the living space and/or doorways. Other rectangle based designs have used two poles along the perimeter, such as the classic pup tent design. This appreciably increases living space but having the poles along the perimeter creates vertical side walls, which catch wind and complicated the pitch as they require guylines and stakes. It’s also a more boxy and inefficient shape, and the poles still typically interfere in the doorways.

Reasoning from first principles, it was obvious that the ideal tent should use two poles to bolster living space since hikers commonly have two poles on hand anyways. It would be a shame not to utilize them, but how to achieve this while avoiding all the common pit-falls was a design challenge that resonated in my head throughout my 2014 PCT thru-hike. It resonated again during my 2017 Great Divide Trail thru-hike until I realized a solution to all of these long-standing issues with the patented X-Mid layout:

The X-Mid layout starts with the unique idea of placing the sleeping area on a diagonal inside of a rectangular fly. This creates vestibules on either side and importantly allows for two trekking poles to be positioned in from the perimeter so the shelter can pitch robustly without guylines (optional ones strengthen it further in storms). Positioned like this, the poles provide abundant living space while being out of the way of the doors and living space, and not complicating the pitch. It’s a spacious shelter that pitches easily with only 4 stakes.

The X-Mid geometry is also lightweight because it is the most volumetrically efficient shape for a trekking pole shelter. If you do the math, you’ll find any other comparably sized trekking pole shelter uses more fabric, stakes, or both, resulting in a heavier geometry. Any competing double-wall tent as light as the X-Mid is either much smaller, using more delicate fabrics, or quite a bit less featured.

The X-Mid also provides outstanding performance in stormy conditions. When it’s rainy, the X-Mid is as good as it gets due to the fly first pitch, generous living space, large vestibules with space for cooking and wet gear, no-sag fabric (polyester), fully taped seams, a double-wall design that protects from contact with condensation, protected entryways that can be left open in light rain, and large vents that open and close easily to reduce condensation. No other tent can claim that entire list (If you know otherwise, contact us and we’ll change this).

The X-Mid is also stable in the wind and snow due to the weather-resistant shape, durable materials, and additional guyout options. Unlike most tents, the X-Mid geometry results in wall slopes that are both consistent and moderate. Most tents have quite variable wall slopes (e.g., low angle roof panels but steep sides) so there are often low angled roof panels that accumulate snow yet overly steep sides that catch the wind. The X-Mid is rare in having consistent panels, and importantly, they are all at a moderate slope, which balances performance in the wind and snow.

In addition to this high-performance shape, the tent also buttons down solidly in harsh weather with numerous optional stake out points around the base, vents that quickly shut to block wind and snow, and peak guylines that can be deployed to strengthen the shelter further.

The materials are also up to the task with tough #5 water-resistant zippers on the fly (many competing tents use weaker #3 zippers and cheaper non-waterproof zippers with flaps that don’t work as well and love to snag in the zipper). The X-Mid fabric is a durable 2500mm sil/PEU coated ripstop polyester (20 denier) that has been independently tested to verify that it is still highly waterproof after extensive wear. This polyester weight is the ideal material for a well-rounded lightweight tent because it is light, durable, and unlike nylon, it doesn’t sag, weaken in wet conditions, or degrade with UV exposure.

Overall the X-Mid layout is the optimal design for a trekking pole shelter because it is maximally simple, spacious, and lightweight while providing robust weather protection.

Specs

Features

• Ultra-simple pitch with just four stakes
• Tent pitches fly first, so the inner tent stays dry during setup in the rain.
• The twin pole structure provides generous headroom and living space.
• Double-wall design protects from condensation.
• Dual doors and dual vestibules provide easy access and ample gear space.
• Protected doorways can be left open in light rain.
• Doorways are large and not blocked by trekking poles like many designs.
• Polyester fabric does not sag in the rain.
• Polyester fabric does not absorb water, so it is fast dry and stays light.
• Interior peak pockets provides handy storage.
• Large vents provide excellent ventilation and close easily during harsh conditions.
• Excellent snow shedding via steep roof panels
• Full coverage fly extends to the ground to block drafts yet can be raised for more ventilation.
• Packs short enough to store horizontally in a pack
• Fly and inner can pitch independently
• Magnetic door toggles for quick operation
• Vestibules can be collapsed to fit into smaller tent sites
• Fully waterproof seams (seam taped or waterproof construction)
• Fully double-stitched construction
• Non-slippery floor
• Premium materials and hardware (e.g., YKK AquaGuard Zippers)
• Optional peak guylines and side panel guylines plus 8 optional stake points around the base for harsh conditions

Weight

• Fly: 17. 3 oz / 490 g
• Inner: 10.7 oz / 305 g
• Stuff sack: 0.4 oz / 12 g
• Stake sack: 0.2 oz / 4 g
• Stakes: 2 Ti hooks @ 8g, 4 Ti V stakes @ 12g
• Tent (fly + inner): 28 oz / 795 g
• Complete package: 30.8 oz / 875 g (tent, stuff sacks, 6 stakes)
• Not included: 2 trekking poles are required for setup but not included.
  

Materials

• 20 denier 420 thread-count 100-percent polyester in desert sage (fly) or anthracite (floor)
• 2500mm sil/PEU coating
• Peak reinforced with 210d black nylon
• YKK #5 AquaGuard (water-resistant) zippers (fly)
• YKK #3 zippers (inner tent)
• 2 titanium shepherd’s hook stakes
• 4 titanium V stakes

Dimensions

• Fly: 67 x 100 in / 170 x 254 cm
• Fly area: 46.5 sq ft / 4.3 sq m
• Fly peak height: 46 in / 117 cm
• Inner peak height: 43 in / 109 cm
• Floor width: 32 in / 81 cm
• Floor length: 90 in / 230 cm
• Floor area: 20 sq ft / 1. 85 sq m
• Vestibule area: 20 sq ft (10 sq ft x 2) / 2 sq m (1 sq m x 2)
• Packed size: 12 x 5 in / 30 x 13 cm

FAQ

Q) I heard the X-Mid has a large footprint that can make site selection more difficult. Is this true?
The X-Mid 1 is designed to be a comfortably sized 1P tent and thus does have a larger footprint then that some 1P tents that are quite tiny. There is a trade off here since a tent that is larger on the inside will also be larger on the outside, but the footprint of the X-Mid 1 is still quite reasonable since it is not that much larger than other 1P tents (see diagram) and still smaller than almost every 2P tent which of course are widely used on all trails

We think providing a comfortable amount of space is the right approach because it benefits you every night, whereas only on rare occasions is the bit larger footprint a small inconvenience and even then you can collapse one or both vestibules to fit into smaller sites. The X-Mid 1 is one of the most popular tents on the Appalachian Trail where smaller campsites are common.

Q) The X-Mid doesn’t seem lighter than mainstream UL tents using tent poles.
There are tents with traditional poles that are as light as the X-Mid, such as the Big Agnes Fly Creek UL1 (27oz). Those pole sets are heavy (often about 8oz) to get those tents as light something else has to give. Commonly that’s space, performance, and durability. A traditional tent as light as the X-Mid is almost certainly far smaller and using more delicate fabrics and much thinner waterproof coatings. You’ll also find they cut features (e.g., lacking vents). Compared to the lightest freestanding tents, the X-Mid offers a more spacious, durable and high-performance shelter for the same weight to give robust 3 season performance.

Q) Should I use a groundsheet?
Our 20D floor is more durable than most ultralight tents (which are 10-15D) and will last a long life without a groundsheet if it’s used with care. However, it is still a light fabric so recommend a groundsheet if you may be pitching on harsher surfaces like gravel or bedrock, or if you like to keep the floor cleaner. We sell X-Mid groundsheets here.

Q) Can I pitch just the fly or inner?
Yes. The inner easily disconnects via buckles at the peaks and clips at the four corners to leave just the fly. If you want to pitch just the inner, you can remove the fly peaks’ guylines and tie them to the inner peaks while adding knots for the pole tips, but our Stargazer kit makes inner-only pitching much easier as it has separate guylines that clip right on plus grommets for your pole tips and tensioners for quick adjustment.

Q) I don’t use trekking poles. What can I do?
We offer folding, adjustable length poles called Z-Flick poles that can be used instead of trekking poles. These are the lightest adjustable poles on the market.

Q) Why polyester over nylon?
The main reason is that nylon absorbs water in wet conditions. That results in 3 big problems: First, it expands (or “sags”) about 4% which makes for a saggy tent in wet conditions. This is a common problem in nearly all lightweight tents, but low weight polyester fabrics are finally available which solve this. Second, nylon’s water absorption makes the tent slow to dry and heavy with up to a pound of water in the fabric, and third, nylon weakens by about 10% when wet. Polyester doesn’t absorb water, so it doesn’t have any of these issues plus it’s far more UV resistant so it lasts longer. Check out our materials page for more detail on this.

Q) How can I repair my X-Mid?
Check out our repair guide.

Q) How should I pitch it in stormy weather?
For the most weather resistant pitch, you should pitch it low to the ground (shorten the cord at the corners as much as possible), use the optional stake out points around the base to spread the load, and deploy the side panel and peak guylines. 

Q) How does the X-Mid compare to [some competing tent]?
The X-Mid geometry is the most volumetrically efficient shape possible.  Thus, it is impossible to design a lighter tent unless you use lighter materials, fewer features, or make it smaller. If you find a more lightweight tent, it likely is a single wall design that isn’t nearly as good in sloppy conditions, or it uses DCF fabric and thus costs at least 2.5x as much.

Any tent that uses similar materials and is also a double-wall usually is quite a bit heavier. Of the few tents that are not, these are always smaller, less featured, or both. We could make the X-Mid smaller or less featured too, but its current design is carefully considered so that it is among the lightest tents in its class while still offering a comfortable amount of space and a useful feature set. Basically, the weight is similar to the lightest woven double-wall tents out there while providing more space and features. To save another two ounces would require large compromises in function or durability, such as hard to use door clips instead of zippers, smaller or omitted vents, and delicate hardware. Tents that make these compromises are much less well rounded.

Q) How is the X-Mid so affordable?
The X-Mid is built at the same high end factory as respected brands like MSR and Mountain Hardware. Our price is only lower because we sell direct to you rather than having a large retail markup (retailers typically double the price). We eliminating that markup and pass most of the savings onto you, while also investing a portion into building even better gear. For example, the X-Mid is the highest quality as we insist that everything is double sewn, and we use premium components such as waterproof YKK AquaGaurd zippers that are uncommon even on more expensive tents, and yet our price is lower than anything comparable simply because of the slim markup. Even at a higher price, you can’t find higher quality than the X-Mid.

Pitching

The X-Mid tents are very simple to pitch, however, there are some things to consider for maximum performance in stormy weather. Below we describe the basic pitch and then how to troubleshoot issues and get a very robust pitch for stormy weather.

Basic Pitch:
1) Stake out the rectangular base (e.g. stake one end, pull out a 3rd corner at 90 degrees, pull last corner taut).
2) Inspect your rectangle to make sure it’s reasonably accurate (not skewed into a diamond). Adjust stake positions if needed.
3) Snug the rectangle tight using the corner tensioners (important so the poles don’t overextend).
4) Add the two poles (tips up in the grommets) and extend firmly until they are taut.

Troubleshooting
Before adding more stakes to beef it it up, it is best to correct any issues with the basic pitch. There are two common issues:

1) Loose Sides
Problem: The rectangular base was not tight when the poles were added. This pulls the corners in and allows the poles to overextend giving an overly tall tent with loose sides.
Solution: Lower the poles, snug up the base, re-extend the poles.

2) Loose Ridgeline or Wonky Canopy
Problem: The base was not staked in an accurate rectangle but instead was skewed into a diamond. Depending on the direction of the skew, the ridgeline will be under or over tensioned.

Solution: As the diagram below explains, use the corner tensioners to adjust the corners back into a proper rectangle. Most likely you will loosen two opposite corners and tighten the two opposite corners.

Storm Pitch
To beef up the pitch for storms, we recommend in approximate order of importance:
1) Make sure your basic pitch is good (tight everywhere). It is best not to use more stakes to compensate for core issues.
2) Add cord to the peak guylines and stake these out along the ridgeline or angled more towards the door walls if the wind is broad side.
3) Replace the shockcord at the door and end wall stake points with static cord (included) and stake these points to better anchor the peak. The static cord eliminates stretch for a more solid pitch.
4) Add cord to the side panel guylines and stake these down on the same angle of slope as the roof panels. Do not pull the sides out substantially.
5) Add the stakes below the main door panels.

Video
If you are the video type, the below video shows how the to pitch the X-Mid.

Awards

The X-Mid has been widely praised by real users and gear review outlets alike. That includes awards for 10 best ultralight tents from Section Hiker and The Trek, a top pick award from Adventure Alan, a best buy award from Outdoor Gear Lab, and the honor of being the highest rated 1P shelter on the Pacific Crest Trail in the comprehensive Halfway Anywhere survey.

In the 2022 Halfway Anywhere survey of PCT thruhikers the X-Mid 1 was the highest rated 1P shelter and one of the most popular shelters on the trail:

Outdoor Gear Lab named the X-Mid the ‘Best Buy’ of their 2021 best ultralight tent comparison and write:

“The Durston X-Mid 1P is absolutely amazing. The minimalist design, premium materials, functionality, and comparatively low price make it one of our highest-rated ultralight shelters. Considering the quality of the materials, the craftsmanship, the clever design functions, and the price, our team can’t think of a good reason not to recommend this shelter. We recommend this tent to anyone and everyone.”

SectionHiker.com editor in-chief Philip Werner gave the X-Mid 1P a glowing review writing “The X-Mid 1 is my favorite tent to use on backpacking trips” and added it to nearly all of their 10 best lists (10 best 1P tents, best backpacking tents, best trekking pole tents etc.)

“A great one-person, double-wall, trekking pole tent”.

Awarded 10 Best Backpacking Tents

Awarded 10 Best 1P Backpacking Tents

Awarded 10 Best Ultralight Trekking Pole Tents

Awarded 10 Best Thru-Hiking Tents

“A winning combination…..great for weathering storms”

The Trek added the X-Mid 1 to their best tents awards starting in 2021 as the fan favorite. For 2023 they moved it up the prestigious ‘Best All Around Tent’ spot, writing  “A laundry list of well-thought-out details makes this tent exceptional.”

Hand stitches, master class | Sewing Advisor

Hand seams are the basis of all sewing craft. Even with high-quality modern technology, you cannot do without hand seams in your work.
Our master class will introduce you to a variety of hand seams that are sure to come in handy when sewing clothes and various accessories. We will tell you about the very basics of hand sewing and help you master ten hand stitches with your own hands.

How to sew hand stitches with your own hands? There are several basic rules that you should follow in the process of hand sewing.

• Be sure to work on a level and flat surface.
• Hand sewing needle must match both fabric and thread.
• Use a thimble for more comfortable and faster work. It is worn on the middle finger of the hand with which you hold the needle.
• While working, check the thread tension: it must not be too tight.

Getting Started: Node

We will show you how to tie a knot at the end of a thread quickly and easily.

Hold the thread with your left hand. Draw the thread around the tip of the index finger of the right hand, and place it on the end of the thread.
Place your thumb on the crossed strands and, pulling on the long strand, slide your thumb towards the end of your index finger so that the strands wrap around each other. Then drop the loop.
Pinch the ring between your thumb and forefinger (or middle fingers). Pull the long end with your left hand and gently tighten the knot.

How to secure the thread at the end of a seam?

You can secure the thread in two ways: knot or bartack.
To make a knot, make a small stitch on the wrong side, on top of the last stitch. Slowly tighten the thread until a small loop remains.

Pass the needle through the loop and continue to tighten until a second loop appears. Pass the corner through the second loop and pull the thread tightly, forming a knot.
To sew a bartack, simply sew a few small stitches using a back stitch. Such stitches are located one on top of the other and hold the layers of fabric together well.

And now let’s learn more about how to do hand stitches with your own hands.

Back stitch

This stitch is one of the most durable hand stitches. It is used for seams in hard to reach places and for securing stitches at the end and beginning. Bring the needle to the top side. Make a small stitch back (2-3 mm) and bring the needle up again, stepping back the same 2-3 mm along the seam line.

Continue to insert the needle at the end of the last stitch and back out one stitch ahead.

Stitches on the wrong side will be twice as long as on the right side.

Back stitch with gaps

This option is also used to secure the transition edge of the piping and hem.

Sew the back of the needle normally, but take the needle back half the stitch length. The needle still comes out for the length of a whole stitch.

Buttonhole stitch

Used for the manufacture of hand-finished parts: hinged thread loops and holes, thread loops, hook fasteners, belt loops. Also suitable for decorating parts made of felt or fleece. Sew the seam from left to right, positioning the fabric so that the cut is at the bottom.

Secure the stitch at the edge of the fabric with a buttonhole or any other method you like.

For each stitch, point the needle towards you. Stick the needle into the right side of the fabric and bring it out over the thread at a distance of about 5-6 mm from the edge and the same distance to the right. Don’t pull the thread too tight.

Goat Stitch (Herringbone)

Use this stitch to join two layers of fabric with little movement, such as joining a lining to a garment or hemming a knit.

Sew from left to right. Make a small horizontal stitch in the top layer, stepping back a little from the edge. Then, just past the edge of the top layer, sew another stitch on the bottom layer, diagonally to the right of the first stitch. Sew stitches without tightening the thread.

French bartack

Use this bartack to attach the hem of the loose lining to the hem of the product.

Sew 2-3 stitches, approx. 2.5-3 cm long, between garment and lining.

Sew buttonhole stitches over long stitches as close together as possible. Completely cover long stitches with eyelets.

Hem stitch

Use this stitch for all types of hems.

Make an inconspicuous small stitch in the fabric of the product, and then bring the needle up diagonally over the edge of the hem. Distance between stitches 5-6 mm.

Overlock stitch (overlock)

Use this stitch to avoid fraying of fabric sections.

Insert the needle perpendicular to the cut of the fabric, making diagonal stitches over the edge. Try to keep the stitches the same size and evenly spaced.

At the end of the seam, you can return by sticking the needle into the holes already made, thus obtaining “triangular” stitches.

Dotted Stitch

This backstitch stitch option is used to finish sewing in a zipper on fabrics such as velvet, corduroy or satin, in case the machine stitch does not look good.

Bring the needle up through all layers of fabric. Sew a back stitch, grabbing 1-2 threads of fabric. Bring the needle to the surface, retreating 5-6 mm forward.

Basting Stitch

This is a basic hand stitch used for pulling fabric, pintucking, darning and stress-free seams.

Sew a few stitches forward, evenly inserting the needle into and out of the fabric before pulling the thread through.

The number of stitches depends on the material thickness. Stitch length and spacing will vary from 3 mm to 3 cm depending on where the seam will be used. folded edge of the upper fabric. Grab one thread of the bottom fabric and reinsert the needle into the fold of the top fabric.

To sew a hole in a machine-sewn seam, sew a blind stitch with an equal number of threads in the top and bottom layers. Make a few stitches and then pull off the seam section.

Hand seams are ready!

How to match a scarf to a suit and how to fold it correctly

In this article:

• Is a pocket square required for the

suit?

• Materials and sizes of men’s pocket squares
• Design and color of pocket square
• 12 key rules for choosing and wearing a headscarf with a suit
• Folding options for pocket square

Good taste is expressed not only in the ability to choose beautiful and stylish things, but also in the ability to make the right accent with the right accessories. Such a detail can be a pocket square, which is sometimes called pasha. It is he who will be the most spectacular accent in an ordinary office suit. But how to choose a scarf for a suit so that everything is harmonious?

A pocket square can really spruce up your wardrobe. Match your outfit with a few shirts and matching shawls, and you’ll have a look for every day. We will talk about the rules for choosing and wearing this finishing stroke on your bow in this article.

Is a pocket square required for the suit?

Pasha – a handkerchief that is inserted into the breast pocket of a jacket, appeared thanks to snuff, or rather, the need to blow your nose, those who like to sniff tobacco. Although the common people for a long time used a sleeve or hem for these purposes, the courtiers of King Richard picked up from their monarch the manner of using a separate piece of cloth for this purpose.

In September 1784, King Louis XVI of France issued a decree stating that “the length of the scarf should be equal to its width. ” He did this for his wife Marie Antoinette, who, being an icon of the style of that time, once noticed that a square scarf is much more comfortable than others.

Initially, since wearing a scarf was the prerogative of the nobility, this accessory was sewn from silk and richly decorated with lace, and therefore it was very expensive. Therefore, in order to protect him from damage by metal money and prolong his life, a special pocket was sewn on his chest to the vest. And when two-piece suits came into use at the beginning of the twentieth century, the handkerchief pocket “moved” to the jacket. Gradually, the shawls were divided according to their functionality into a pasha (a decorative accessory for a breast pocket) and an ordinary bow shawl, which remained “live” in a trouser pocket.

Michael Anton, a well-known trendsetter in men’s fashion, writes: “A man who is missing a headscarf is not only not in the parade – he cannot even be called well-dressed.”

Alan Flusser, in his book Dressing the Man, notes: “It would be hard to find a photograph of the Duke of Windsor, Fred Astaire, or any well-dressed Adam of the 1930s that does not have a pocket handkerchief in some form. One of America’s most stylish politicians, President Kennedy, never left the White House in a suit without a piece of fabric in his pocket.”

Materials and sizes of men’s pocket squares

Most often, pasha scarves are sewn from silk, linen and cotton or mixed fabrics in different combinations and proportions. In the cold season, wool or wool with the addition of cotton or silk is a good choice, especially in combination with a tweed suit. In summer, it is preferable to wear linen and silk scarves, besides, they are better combined with light suits. There is no need to focus on the combination of a scarf and a tie; both contrasting options and those made of the same material will look equally good. If it is difficult for you to decide on a color, choose an accessory made of light linen, it will look organic in any situation.

You should definitely not choose synthetic material, scarves made from such fabrics look unpresentable and wear out quickly. Although if the suit to which you select an accessory is also inexpensive, then perhaps you should opt for, for example, artificial silk so that there is no dissonance. Combining a cheap suit with an expensive headscarf is likely to look ridiculous.

So how do you choose a scarf for a suit? How not to make a mistake in the choice of fabric, color, texture?

There are many options, let’s try to figure it out. Let’s start with natural fabrics.

• The most common is silk.

Scarves made of natural silk are suitable for almost any costume and season, they have a lot of advantages: they do not wrinkle, almost do not wear out and look solid. The only thing is not to combine them with similar ties. The silk scarf is soft, does not hold its shape very well, and in order to fold it, a certain skill is required.

• Linen and silk blend – more of a summer material, but can also be worn in spring or early autumn.

This blended fabric is not as versatile as silk. The fabric has the property, though not much, but to wrinkle, but at the same time it is great for summer suits. Like a white silk scarf, a white linen poché will pair with almost any fabric. For a change, you can choose not just a white plain scarf, but an accessory with a not very bright and sharp pattern or ornament.

• Wool-linen blend and pure wool are options for the cold season.

Such scarves can be combined with tweed suits, and with products made from good wool. Wool-blended silk shawls also pair flawlessly with winter outfits. If you choose the right accessory according to the color scheme, you get a very stylish and elegant look.

• Cotton is the most inexpensive natural fabric option.

Do not forget about cotton fabrics, this is a very practical fabric. One of the undeniable advantages is the possibility of washing such scarves, and cotton scarves can also be starched, which will make them stiffer and increase the number of folding options.

Often manufacturers, in pursuit of savings, produce scarves that are too small. After all, the smaller the scarf, the lower the consumption of materials and the lower the cost. And although some suit manufacturers do make handkerchief pockets small, the most common option can be considered a medium-sized handkerchief pocket.

It is difficult to say exactly which size is correct. In addition to the fact that the breast pockets of different models of jackets and vests differ, different sizes are also suitable for handkerchiefs made of different materials. Also, the option of putting the handkerchief in your pocket affects the choice of its size.

In general, the recommended size for silk handkerchiefs is 33×33 cm. A smaller size silk handkerchief will most likely just fall into your pocket. If you choose the wrong size cotton accessory, it will not fold well and will not hold its shape. And if the woolen scarf is larger than necessary, it will wrinkle and protrude the pocket, which also looks rather ugly.

Pattern and color of pocket square

High-quality models of scarves are tucked and hemmed by hand, these are the so-called hand-rolled. They are somewhat more expensive than machine-hemmed scarves and look neater. Since there is an opinion that cheap synthetic material will not be handled by hand, the “hand-rolled” mark is a kind of quality assurance.

Although now there are scarves hemmed on special machines that imitate handmade work. Of course, upon closer inspection, you can notice the difference, but in general, if the thread for stitching is chosen carefully, such scarves look like the result of manual labor.

You can find scarves with unusual edge processing, as if openwork, with a large number of small holes, most often linen accessories are processed this way. Did you know that sophisticated fashionistas can tell an Irish linen handkerchief from a French linen handkerchief?

The variety of colors, ornaments and patterns, fabrics and textures allows you to create a lot of combinations with ties and jackets.

Of course, if you are lost in the variety of colors and fabrics or want something versatile, then a white linen or white silk scarf will always help you out.

You should read this!

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It is a versatile choice to match any suit or tie. You can also choose a solid blue or light blue scarf, but you must remember that they cannot be worn with a blue and light blue jacket, respectively.

To emphasize the scarf, you can choose the option with a pattern. A simple stripe along the edge of a scarf can spice up any formal outfit.

12 key rules for choosing and wearing a headscarf with a suit

Sometimes there are situations when a pocket square is not very appropriate. For example, if you are waiting for an interview, you should not focus the attention of a potential leader on what kind of fashionista you are. A discreet classic suit is much better.

And there are situations when the dress code of the event obliges a man to have a scarf as a detail of the image.

When deciding how to match a scarf with a suit, it is imperative to consider the material and color of the tie, as well as the color direction of the suit.

1. The first rule of a gentleman is that the handkerchief must be perfectly clean. If suddenly it is dirty or there is a clear stain on it, then neither the combination with the tie nor the sophistication of the pattern is important.
2. A scarf is not a piece of cloth for wiping sweat or a phone screen, but a purely decorative accessory.
3. Fold the handkerchief in such a way that approximately one third of the accessory is visible from the breast pocket.
4. A scarf should not look like a festive bouquet sticking out of your chest.
5. It is not necessary to wear a tie with the headscarf. A scarf is able to make your image elegant and self-sufficient.
6. The scarf may be visible.
7. The handkerchief can also be worn in a vest pocket, and not just let it peek out of your jacket pocket.
8. When choosing this part of the wardrobe, it is necessary to take into account the texture of the fabric and be able to beat it, for example, by combining a silk tie and a linen scarf. In general, a combination of a tie made of shiny fabric and a matte scarf is considered optimal.
9. A scarf should be combined with a tie, but this does not mean that both accessories should match color for color, on the contrary, the colors should overlap. A good option would be when only some part of the pattern matches the tone of the shirt or tie.
10. If you have a monophonic jacket, it is better to choose a scarf with an ornament to go with it, this will become an advantageous accent in your image.
11. Wearing a pocket square allows, depending on the choice and situation, both to emphasize the informal image of your outfit and to maintain the dress code.
12. Try to wear a scarf on the one hand elegantly, but on the other hand, a little casually, so that no one guesses how much time you spent on successfully folding it.

Pocket scarf folding options

There are about a hundred ways to tie a tie, but with a scarf, the situation is much simpler. There are much fewer options for folding scarves, and two or three options are most often used.

• “President’s way” – before putting the handkerchief in the pocket of a jacket or vest, you need to fold the handkerchief in half into a rectangle, and then tuck its bottom corner, leaving a little space at the top.
• “With one corner” – spread the scarf in front of you, turning the corner towards you, fold it in half to make a triangle, after that you should bend the left edge of the accessory, slightly stepping out of the center, and repeat this action with the right edge. You can put a handkerchief in your pocket.
• “Two corners on top” – place the scarf as in the previous method, then throw the bottom half of the scarf over the top, but not symmetrically, but to get two corners, and bend, by analogy with the “one corner” method, first the left and then the right edge.