How do driver and iron grips differ in golf. What are the key differences between weak, neutral, and strong grips. How does grip size affect your golf game. Which grip type is best suited for different clubs and swing styles.
Understanding the Fundamentals of Golf Grips
Golf grips play a crucial role in a player’s ability to control the club and execute shots effectively. While the basic grip technique remains consistent across different clubs, subtle variations can significantly impact performance. Let’s delve into the nuances of driver and iron grips to help you optimize your game.
The Core Similarity: Driver and Iron Grip Techniques
Contrary to common misconception, the fundamental grip technique for drivers and irons is essentially the same. The primary differences lie in how players adjust their grip to accommodate the varying lengths and purposes of these clubs. Understanding these subtleties can help golfers fine-tune their approach for each club in their bag.
Exploring the Three Main Grip Types in Golf
Golfers typically employ one of three grip types: weak, neutral, or strong. Each grip style offers distinct advantages and can be more suitable for certain swing characteristics or shot shapes.
The Weak Grip: When and Why to Use It
A weak grip is characterized by the golfer’s hands rotated slightly to the left (for right-handed players), revealing fewer knuckles on the left hand when addressing the ball. This grip type is less common among professionals but can be beneficial for players struggling with a hook.
- Promotes a more open clubface at impact
- Can help reduce hook tendencies
- Generally less suitable for driver shots due to difficulty squaring the clubface
The Neutral Grip: Finding Balance in Your Swing
The neutral grip is a popular choice, especially for iron shots. It offers a balanced approach to clubface control and is favored by many professional players with consistent ball-striking abilities.
- Facilitates natural opening and closing of the clubface
- Ideal for players with tight shot dispersion
- Less common for driver use due to increased shaft length
The Strong Grip: Combating Slices and Enhancing Power
A strong grip involves rotating the hands slightly to the right (for right-handed players), showing more knuckles on the left hand at address. This grip type has gained popularity in recent years, particularly for driver shots.
- Helps keep the clubface square through impact
- Reduces the risk of slicing
- Allows for faster swing speeds without compromising control
- Commonly used by professionals for both drivers and irons
Optimizing Your Grip for Different Clubs
While the basic grip technique remains consistent, subtle adjustments can enhance performance with different clubs. Understanding how to fine-tune your grip for drivers versus irons can lead to improved shot-making and overall scoring.
Driver Grip Considerations
When gripping a driver, players often lean towards a stronger grip to combat the increased risk of slicing due to the club’s longer shaft. This adjustment helps maintain clubface control through impact, promoting straighter and more powerful drives.
Iron Grip Adaptations
For iron shots, many players find success with a more neutral grip. This allows for greater precision and control, which is crucial for approach shots and scoring opportunities. However, individual swing characteristics should always be considered when selecting the optimal grip strength for irons.
The Impact of Grip Size on Performance
Beyond grip technique, the physical characteristics of the grip itself can significantly influence a player’s ability to control the club. Grip size is a critical factor that can affect both comfort and performance.
Standard Grip Size
Standard grips are designed to fit the average hand size and are suitable for most golfers. They provide a good balance of control and feel for players with typical hand dimensions.
Oversized and Jumbo Grips
Larger grip sizes, including midsize, oversized, and jumbo options, can benefit players with larger hands or those seeking to reduce hand action during the swing. These grips can promote a more stable clubface through impact and may help players with arthritis or hand injuries.
Undersized Grips
Players with smaller hands may find undersized grips more comfortable and easier to control. These grips allow for greater hand action, which can be advantageous for players who rely on timing and feel in their shots.
Customizing Grip Firmness for Optimal Feel
The firmness of a golf grip can significantly impact a player’s feel and control over the club. Golfers can choose from a range of grip firmness options to suit their preferences and playing style.
Soft Grips
Softer grips offer enhanced feel and can be beneficial for players with slower swing speeds or those who prefer a more tactile connection with the club. They may also help reduce vibration and shock at impact.
Firm Grips
Firmer grips provide a more stable feel and can be advantageous for players with faster swing speeds or those who tend to grip the club tightly. They often offer increased durability and may help promote a lighter grip pressure.
Adapting Your Grip to Different Swing Styles
Your grip should complement your natural swing tendencies and help address any consistent miss-hits. Understanding how to adjust your grip based on your swing characteristics can lead to significant improvements in ball-striking and overall performance.
Grip Adjustments for Slice Correction
Players struggling with a persistent slice may benefit from strengthening their grip. This adjustment can help promote a more closed clubface at impact, reducing the likelihood of an open face and resulting slice spin.
Grip Modifications for Hook Reduction
Conversely, golfers battling a hook might find relief by weakening their grip slightly. This change can encourage a more open clubface through impact, potentially straightening out hook-prone shots.
The Role of Grip Pressure in Shot Execution
While grip type and size are crucial factors, the amount of pressure applied to the club can significantly impact shot quality and consistency. Understanding and controlling grip pressure is essential for golfers of all skill levels.
The Goldilocks Principle of Grip Pressure
Finding the right balance of grip pressure is often described as holding the club firmly enough to control it, but gently enough to allow for natural wrist hinge and release. Many instructors use the analogy of holding a small bird or tube of toothpaste – firm enough to keep it secure, but not so tight as to cause harm or squeeze out the contents.
Adjusting Grip Pressure for Different Shots
Grip pressure can be fine-tuned based on the type of shot being played. For example, a slightly firmer grip may be beneficial for full shots requiring maximum power, while a lighter touch can enhance feel and control for delicate chip shots and putts.
Practical Tips for Refining Your Golf Grip
Improving your golf grip is a process that requires patience, practice, and attention to detail. Here are some practical tips to help you refine your grip and enhance your overall game:
- Experiment with different grip types to find what feels most natural and produces the best results for your swing.
- Use alignment aids on your grips to ensure consistent hand placement from shot to shot.
- Practice your grip regularly, even when you’re not on the course or driving range.
- Seek feedback from a golf professional to ensure your grip is optimized for your unique swing characteristics.
- Be mindful of grip wear and replace grips regularly to maintain optimal performance and feel.
By focusing on these aspects of your golf grip, you can develop a more consistent and effective technique that translates to improved performance on the course. Remember that while there are general guidelines for grip technique, the ultimate goal is to find a grip that allows you to control the club and produce the desired ball flight consistently.
The Evolution of Golf Grip Technology
As golf equipment technology continues to advance, grip manufacturers are constantly innovating to provide players with enhanced performance and comfort. Understanding the latest developments in grip technology can help golfers make informed decisions when selecting or upgrading their equipment.
Material Innovations
Modern golf grips are crafted from a variety of high-tech materials designed to optimize performance in different conditions. Some of the latest advancements include:
- Moisture-wicking compounds that maintain grip tackiness in wet conditions
- Temperature-resistant materials that provide consistent feel across varying weather conditions
- Eco-friendly options made from recycled or sustainable materials
Hybrid Grip Designs
Many manufacturers now offer hybrid grips that combine different materials or textures in strategic locations. These designs aim to provide the optimal balance of comfort, control, and durability for various hand positions and swing types.
Smart Grip Technology
The integration of technology into golf grips is an emerging trend. Some manufacturers are experimenting with grips that incorporate sensors to provide data on grip pressure, hand position, and other metrics that can be used for swing analysis and improvement.
The Psychological Impact of Grip Confidence
While the technical aspects of grip are crucial, the psychological comfort and confidence a player feels with their grip can significantly impact performance. A golfer who trusts their grip is more likely to swing freely and commit to shots without hesitation.
Building Grip Confidence
Developing confidence in your grip involves more than just finding the right technical setup. It requires consistent practice and positive reinforcement. Here are some strategies to build grip confidence:
- Establish a pre-shot routine that includes a grip check
- Practice with your chosen grip in various situations and conditions
- Visualize successful shots while focusing on the feel of your grip
- Seek professional advice to confirm that your grip is optimized for your swing
Overcoming Grip-Related Mental Blocks
Some golfers may develop mental blocks or anxiety related to their grip, especially after experiencing a period of poor performance. Overcoming these challenges often requires a combination of technical refinement and mental strategies. Working with both a golf instructor and a sports psychologist can be beneficial in addressing these issues.
Grip Considerations for Different Skill Levels
The optimal grip approach can vary depending on a golfer’s skill level and experience. Understanding how grip requirements may change as players progress can help golfers adapt their technique for continued improvement.
Beginner Grip Fundamentals
For beginners, focusing on a neutral grip and proper hand placement is often the best approach. This provides a solid foundation for developing a consistent swing and allows new golfers to experience different ball flights as they learn.
Intermediate Player Grip Refinements
As players advance, they may begin to experiment with slight grip adjustments to address specific swing tendencies or desired shot shapes. This might involve subtly strengthening or weakening the grip to influence ball flight.
Advanced Player Grip Optimizations
Highly skilled players often have a deep understanding of how grip nuances affect their performance. They may make micro-adjustments based on course conditions, specific shot requirements, or even changes in their physical condition.
The Future of Golf Grip Innovation
As golf technology continues to evolve, we can expect to see further innovations in grip design and functionality. Some potential areas of development include:
- Customizable grips that can be easily adjusted for different playing conditions or shot types
- Integration of biometric sensors for real-time swing feedback
- Advanced materials that provide unprecedented levels of tackiness and durability
- Grips designed to optimize energy transfer for increased distance and accuracy
These advancements may revolutionize how golfers approach their grip and potentially unlock new levels of performance and consistency.
Conclusion: Mastering Your Golf Grip for Improved Performance
Understanding the nuances of golf grips, including the differences between driver and iron techniques, is crucial for any golfer looking to improve their game. By experimenting with different grip types, sizes, and pressures, players can find the optimal setup that complements their natural swing tendencies and helps them achieve their performance goals.
Remember that while there are general guidelines and best practices, the most effective grip is ultimately the one that allows you to consistently produce your desired ball flight and shot shape. Regular practice, attention to detail, and a willingness to make adjustments when necessary are key to developing a reliable and effective golf grip.
As you continue to refine your grip and overall technique, stay open to new innovations and technologies that may enhance your performance on the course. With dedication and the right approach to your grip, you can unlock new levels of consistency, power, and precision in your golf game.
Driver Grip Vs Iron Grip Comparisons — (What Are the Differences?)
One of the most challenging aspects of golf is that every swing and set-up is slightly different depending on the golf club. Because of the increased length of the driver, squaring up the clubface at impact is something many golfers struggle with. That’s why the slice is one of the most common miss-hits for high handicappers.
To combat this miss and make sure that your set-up is optimal for every situation, it’s crucial to use the correct grip. In this article, we will cover the differences in the driver vs iron grip, both when it comes to set-up and the grips themselves.
Difference Between Driver Grip and Iron Grip
There is no difference between the driver grip and iron grip. You grip these clubs the same way.
But, there are many ways to grip the golf club: a weak grip, a neutral grip, and a strong grip. All grips are usable, but depending on what you struggle with in your golf swing, some are better suited for you than others.
The grip can change depending on what club you’re using.
This is because all golf clubs have different lengths. Now, we’ll go over the different grips, which suit you the best, and when to use which grip depending on the club.
Weak Grip
The weak grip is undoubtedly the most uncommon, and very few professional golfers use it. A weak grip will promote a more open clubface compared to the closed of the popular strong grip. That’s why golfers who struggle with a hook should consider using a weaker grip.
Because the driver has a very long shaft, it becomes harder to square the clubface at impact. A square clubface is always desirable, and to shape your shot the path of the golf club is what should change.
The weaker grip’s open-face tendencies are therefore unsuitable for most driver swings, and most golfers should stay away from this grip completely.
You can look at your knuckles to tell if you have a weak grip.
You have a weak grip if no knuckles are showing on your left hand. To strengthen the grip and close the face, as a result, move your left hand together until you start seeing a knuckle or two. How many knuckles you see will make a neutral or a strong grip.
Neutral Grip
The neutral golf grip is very popular – especially when it comes to irons. This grip promotes a natural opening and closing of the club face and works for many golfers. Many professionals also use this grip, and anyone with a tight dispersion can try this grip.
However, the neutral grip is not suited for golfers with tendencies to miss the golf ball to the right or left. It’s also somewhat uncommon to see really good golfers using this grip with the driver, because of the increased length.
A neutral grip will usually show around one or half a knuckle on your left hand, and your right hand will be placed in the middle of the shaft over the left. Again, if you’re like most golfers who struggle with a slice, consider strengthening your grip by moving your hands to the right to see at least two knuckles.
Strong Grip
In professional golf, a strong grip is the most popular. This is because it keeps the clubface square longer and significantly decreases the need to flip your hands or forearms to square the face at impact.
With a strong grip, you should see at least two of your knuckles. If that doesn’t help, consider strengthening even further. It’s also crucial to place your right hand accordingly by setting the thumb on top of the left hand’s thumb, meaning that your thumb will point to the left of the clubface and not run down the middle of the shaft.
Many golfers use a strong grip for the driver to decrease the risk of a slice, but it can also be used for every other club in the bag. The strong grip has recently gained popularity because it allows golfers to swing fast without worrying about missing the ball to the right. So if you tend to over-fade or slice your golf shots, we highly recommend that you try to strengthen your grip.
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Driver Grips Vs Iron Grips – What Do They Do?
The Grip Portion of the Golf Club
Sometimes there are also differences in the grip itself, although they are usually relatively similar.
The main differences between grips are the size and firmness. Both these options have their strengths and should be considered when choosing the grip.
Grip Size
What grip size you should use depends primarily on your hand size, but sometimes also preference. All golf grips come in the standard version made for average size hands, as long as you don’t pick anything else.
Then there is a slightly larger midsize option, a significantly larger oversized option, and an undersized option for those with smaller hands. There are also jumbo grips that are used by the professional golfer Bryson DeChambeau.
We know that this is what he wants because he is looking for the largest grips possible.
Many golfers use larger grips than standard to increase the iron’s feel, while they might stick with the standard version for their woods and driver, as it sometimes makes it easier to turn the club over and square up the face.
If you can’t buy new larger grips even though you might need them, it’s possible to add some layers of tape under the grip to increase the thickness slightly.
Grip Firmness
The grip’s firmness should also be considered but has little to do with performance. Some golfers choose to have a softer grip in the shorter irons, as that tends to improve the feel of the golf clubs and connectivity to the shot as a result.
Few golfers use soft grips for their longer clubs, such as the fairway woods and driver, since the softer feel can feel strange at higher swing speeds. However, we recommend sticking with the same type of grip throughout your bag for optimal consistency.
Golf gear manufacturers such as Winn and Golf Pride make excellent grips, including wrap grips and cord grips, and you should always pick the grip that makes you the most comfortable as they will enable you to play your best golf possible. There are also some golf brands you should avoid, so always pick a quality brand to ensure a long-lasting and well-performing grip.
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Weak Grip With Driver – What Should I Do?
If you struggle with consistency with the driver and tend to miss the ball to the right, it might very well be because of a weak grip. As mentioned earlier in the article, a weak grip means that your hands are rotated too far to the left and that you don’t see any knuckles on your left hand.
To fix this and strengthen your grip, move both hands simultaneously until you see at least two knuckles on your left hand.
It’s also crucial that your right hand’s thumb is placed on top of the right’s and that it doesn’t run straight down the shaft. Otherwise, you risk losing the benefits of the stronger grip.
Stronger Grip With Driver Than Irons – What Should I Do?
Because so many golfers struggle with a slice with their driver, it’s very common to have a stronger grip with the driver than irons.
This doesn’t necessarily have to be a problem, but it can lead to inconsistency as the two swings will be somewhat different.
At the end of the day, what works for you might not work for others, but we recommend that you try to use the same grip for all golf clubs to maximize your consistency and shoot lower scores.
If you want to decrease the difference between the two grips, either strengthen the grip on your irons or weaken the grip on your driver. Now you’ll have to take the club away more squarely and proficiently, which might take some time to get used to. Ultimately, we strongly recommend that you see your local PGA professional for help if it’s needed.
FAQ Section
Do you use the same grip for driver and irons?
Every golfer is different, but generally speaking, it’s wise to use the same grip for both the driver and irons. This is because it makes your swing more consistent as fewer things change. However, if you struggle with a slice when hitting the driver, changing your driver grip alone can help.
Do you hold a driver differently than an iron?
There are three types of golf grips: weak grip, neutral grip, and strong grip. All these can be used on all clubs, including the driver and irons. Because the driver is much longer than the irons, you may struggle with squaring the face, which a grip change can help combat.
What grip is best for a driver?
The best grip depends on the golfer and its strengths and weaknesses. If you tend to miss the ball to the right, consider using a stronger grip. On the other hand, if you miss the ball to the left, consider weakening your grip. If you miss the ball in both directions, the grip might not be the problem but rather the swing.
Why do I need a stronger grip with the driver?
Because the driver is much longer than an iron, it’s more challenging to square the clubface at impact. When you swing, the clubface will naturally open during the takeaway, and if you don’t close it enough on your way down, you will hit a slice.
A stronger grip keeps the clubface more closed, making it easier to hit the golf ball straight.
Conclusion: Research by Tellmemoregolf.com
The grip plays a vital part in playing good golf, and if you struggle with consistency, you should consider changing your grip by weakening or strengthening it.
Hopefully, you now have a clear idea of the different grips and the differences between the driver and iron grip. Thank you for reading this article from TellMeMoreGolf.com, and we wish you a great time out on the course!
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Does Your Driver Grip Matter?
Why You Need This: Today, you’ll discover “Does Your Driver Grip Matter? | Shocking Results Testing Different Grips”
In today’s lesson…
…I’ll show you the shocking differences in feel and distance with each grip type along with the pros and cons of each.
I’ll also explain why there’s on thing I’m really NOT a big fan of when it comes to your grip.
You may be surprised about what grip may work best for you. Come check it out!
Golf Pros Featured:
Instructors Featured: Clay Ballard
Video Duration: 9:26
Watch This Video Now!
Normally, this video in our step-by-step, course-based training is only available to our All Access Members…
But I’ll let you watch this ONE video today only… because I can already tell I’m going to like you !
Video Transcription:
All right, the grip. This is a question I get all the time. What’s the best grip? Should I have a weaker grip, a neutral grip or a stronger grip? Well, let’s go over what those are. And I actually did a little test here today. We’re hit five shots of each grip. And I’ll tell you what it felt like to me
We’re going to compare swing speed.
We’re going to compare carry distance, total distance and some of the pros and cons of each of these. There’s one of these I really do not like for most all players, even though it can work. We’ll go over that. So let’s start off with the what I would say is a weaker grip and the way that I would classify this is if I held my club up, this would be toward the sky and I would take my grip to where my logo, my glove is toward the sky.
Now, it’s still going to be in the fingers so when I’m looking here, it’s kind of angled and it’s below the the meaty part of the hand. Pretty much all of these groups are going to be like that. When I set up to the golf ball, you’ll see the logo. My glove is almost toward the target in my right hand.
The little V between my thumb and forefinger is more vertical or straight up and down. That’s a pretty weak grip by most people standards. Some players, it would been like this, maybe like Ben Hogan, Tiger Woods is not quite that weak, but he’s on the weaker side of it.
So there’s some good players that have that kind of a grip.
But the thing that I don’t like about this grip is if I want to get some shaft laying in the loft, it really have to bow my wrists a ton. I really have to you know, if I want to get it from the inside, I’ve got to look like Dustin Johnson or Brooks Koepka or some of those guys to really close it up to get that face square and get some shaft lean.
So for me, this is one of the more radical ones. So when I look at these numbers, here, when I go to the chart, I’m going to see that my average carry distance was 255, which is really low for me. Well, see, compared to the other ones, to 77 total, my ball speed was 160, my swing speed was 109.
So not the best numbers there that’s we’re going to compare to the other ones. I feel like I’m trying to hit all these really good, but man, that one feels like a lot of work. You’ll also notice when I pull the screen back up to the, the shot patterns, the tracers, it was really sporadic for me.
So I’m hitting some that are big slices and some that are big hooks.
It’s so much of that rotation that it’s very difficult for me to get an awareness of exactly where the face is. So I don’t like this grip as much either for generating a ton of lag. It’s not that you can’t do it. It’s just you have to have really flexible risk to be able to square that up, get the lag.
It just makes it a little bit tougher for most players. I find most players have trouble getting enough of that bone, and I think almost everybody could get more of that bowing of the wrist are turning of the wrist as they’re coming through there. So let’s not make it any harder on ourself. Now, the second grip would be just kind of a neutral one here, which would be exactly what I normally take.
So here, when I have this clubface toward the camera, my club is going to be slightly closed, probably ten, 15 degrees. And now the group is up toward the sky. When I set up to the club, you’re going to see the V between my thumb, my fingers now kind of to my right side of my chin.
My right hand is going to be more toward my right shoulder.
That’s traditionally what most people would say is a pretty neutral grip that’s what I usually do with my own grip. So if I look at the numbers there, remember 250 something carry 109 club speed. Now we’re going to go to my neutral grip. 279 carry picked up about 22 yards per carry, 300 yards total driving distance average. I picked up seven miles an hour, a swing speed.
I picked up ten miles an hour of ball speed. Now you could argue that the reason that I did all those things, it’s like, well, that’s just a different grip. So yeah, Clay, you’re going to play a little bit better if you use your normal grip than you would if you use a weaker grip that you’re not used to.
But again, the swing speed, I just found that happening and really when we go into this third one, I’m gonna kind of disprove how playing with a different grip isn’t necessarily what’s going on now. I would say you look at the consistency of those strikes those are very, very consistent.
That’s mostly coming from what I was feeling like I was doing.
I knew where the clubface was. None of the other grips are going to be as consistent that because it’s not just what I’m used to now. When I go over here and take my third grip, I’m actually going to use a really strong grip. So now that face is going to be almost probably 30, 45 degrees closed when the logo of my glove is up toward the sky.
And when I take a look at that one, I call this kind of a hammer grip, actually, let me go grab a hammer. I’ll show you exactly what I mean by that. Now, at this hammer, kind of a dinky hammer here, I don’t have a big one laying around, but if I take this normal or if I take this stronger grip, my hand is kind of turned more to the right like that.
Again, the club would be closed compared to my wrist angle here. It’s almost like if I had a hammer like this, if I’m grabbing a hammer straight up and down like a hammer nail. And I turned it this way, and now this golf ball, I’m going to hammer the back of the golf ball like that.
So my grip is really turned sideways.
That’s kind of a Paul Azinger grip. That’s kind of a some of the stronger grips that you might see on on the PGA Tour. And the right hand would be the same thing. It’s turn much more under like this, and it’s almost like the right hand is going to hammer the back of that golf ball. The advantage of this one is I don’t have to get as much of the rolling of the wrist.
So we’re looking at D.J. really bow in the wrist or are you looking at those guys that have the wrist really bow through, impact the right wrist, the riight knuckles really bent back. You don’t have to do that if you have the hammer grip. But I actually took that hammer grip and I did that same thing. It would actually be over closed too much for Kathleen, too little lost too much of a hook, which most players need a lot more of that.
So when I tried that grip out, I got to tell you, it actually felt the best on the contact. If I go back, I’ll actually go back to the first couple drivers here on my driver.
The smash factor averaged 1.48 on my normal driver averaged 1.47 on my weak grip driver and I averaged 1.48 on my stronger driver.
Now, I had one bad missed it in there where it was only a 1.43, but I had one which was the highest a 1.51 I got to tell you, that felt amazing. 278 carry 295 distance a little bit shorter than my normal one 170 ball speed, 115 and a half club head speed pretty similar on there. So what I found by this and I think this is a kind of an interesting one and I think this would actually be a good grip to experiment with from some players is when I take this really strong hammer grip, it automatically sets me more to the right what I call stable fluid spine it automatically gets me in a
position where I feel like it’s really easy to get lag. It’s almost impossible with this grip to come over the top like that. You take this strong grip, you’re automatically going to be coming from the inside, shallowing that club out, getting it from the inside. That way it’s probably what I would call the cheater grip.
This is like the kind of cheater position.
You really get it strong hand, man. You can get a lot of those positions without having to work as hard on that. So I’d say most players tend toward the stronger grip type. Now, the disadvantage of this is it was so strong that in my brain, if I move my body the way a golf swing should move and I have a pretty good fundamentals on my swing, it feels like it is going to hook like crazy.
I feel like I’m just going crazy. Duck hooks are left, so I have to really feel like I’m kind of holding off on it. And I don’t like that feeling as much for some players because it’s really easy if I feel like I’m holding off to almost fall back a little bit and maybe hit some chunks on there.
So that would be the one disadvantage with that stronger grip. Now, the real key to this, the real takeaway from this was I’m not a big fan of the weaker grip for most players, but you can use a variety of grips. Hogan played fantastic with a weak grip policing and played fantastic with a strong grip.
Everybody else fell somewhere in between those two players.
So there’s all different variations of this that you can play with. What this really shows is find a grip that’s comfortable for you. Test out weaker and stronger, grip, see what you like the best but as long as you get a lot of lag and you release it in front, the club is going to be working through contact very, very well.
That’s what the top speed golf system is you do the five fundamentals of the top golf system. It doesn’t make a hill of beans difference what kind of grip you take. So test out the different grips for yourself. But I want you to challenge yourself to do what I call the number one fundamental. If you want to hit it good with any of these grips, go over to the stable fluid spine section and what we’re going to do here, we’re going to get a little bump away from the target and then I’m going to teach my body how to rotate around that spine angle.
So I’m extremely consistent. Notice when I do that, look at my head doesn’t even really move at all.
My head’s almost dead still as I’m making my entire swing. That allows you to have consistency, that allows you to hit the ground the same spot every time. The grip won’t do that for you. The grip, you might have a personal preference, but there’s nothing that’s going to be the magic fix for all of it.
So if you want to get that real consistency, go to the instruction tab, click on top speed system, go to the stable fluid spine and work through just one video in the stable fluid spine section. And what I want you to do is you work through that, try out the three different groups, see which one feels best to you and you’re going to start to make some great headway.
I challenge you to do one video today. Go ahead, watch that video, finish it off this week, and you’re going to get hooked. You’re going to start hitting a lot more consistent you’re going have fun and it’s going to become automatic. I’ll see in the stable fluids spine.
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What is a clutch
The clutch is a mechanical device that transfers torque from the engine to the wheels and disengages the drive shaft from the transmission. This means that the car can stand still even when the engine is running, and shifting gears and starting off is smooth.
On the “mechanics” the driver controls it by pressing the third pedal (far left). For models with automatic transmission, torque transmission is implemented differently and the torque converter is responsible for it.
The clutch is always located between the engine and transmission. In the classic version, for manual transmission, its main working elements are:
- Flywheel . A heavy disk with a gear rim, which is rigidly fixed to the crankshaft of the internal combustion engine. A clutch basket is attached to its reverse side.
- Clutch disc . It is pressed against the flywheel and for this it is covered with a special friction-resistant composite material.
- Damper springs . Equalize vibrations and vibrations from a running engine.
- Diaphragm spring . Responsible for breaking power due to the movement of the inner edge (petals). Works with a release bearing that the fork moves.
What the clutch is for
A running engine is constantly rotating, while the wheels may not move. If the transmission remains engaged and the driver tries to brake, the engine will stall. Other clutch features:
- soft start and easy gear shifting;
- reduction of vibration from a running internal combustion engine;
- transmission protection against engine jerks, inertial overloads and wear.
How the clutch works
Most of the time the clutch is engaged, that is, the disc is pressed against the flywheel. The step-by-step process of switching on and off looks like this:
- The driver presses the clutch pedal;
- This force is transmitted through a cable or hydraulic line to the fork;
- The release bearing moves and pushes the petals of the diaphragm spring;
- The engine-transmission connection is broken;
- The driver selects the desired gear and smoothly releases the pedal, the speed of rotation of the flywheel and the driven disk are equalized;
- The clutch disc is pressed against the flywheel and torque transmission is resumed.
Types of clutches
There are many ways to engage / disengage the connection between the internal combustion engine and the gearbox. Some of the systems, such as cone or tape, are outdated and rarely used. Others are used only in racing or heavy trucks. The most common type of clutch is disc. It has been used in the automotive industry since the beginning of the 20th century and is constantly being refined by engineers. Today, all clutches are divided into:
- friction, hydraulic or electromagnetic;
- with one, two or more discs;
- with mechanical (cable), hydraulic or electric drive;
- with peripheral springs, central, centrifugal and semi-centrifugal;
- with dry or wet friction.
Friction Clutch
Fits most stock cars. According to the number of working disks, it is divided into:
- Single disk . The most common design, installed on most cars. Easy to repair and maintain.
- Double disc . Used on trucks or high-performance vehicles.
- Multidisc . Consists of three or more discs. They are put on racing and sports cars, as well as on heavy construction equipment.
Dry
In such systems, friction occurs in a dry (air) environment. Such mechanisms, for example, include a friction single-plate clutch. How it works was discussed above. Dry Clutch Pros and Cons:
- Torque transmission efficiency . Without lubrication, it is much higher, since any power loss is minimized, and the clutch disc and engine shaft are in direct contact.
- Easy maintenance . The single disc design and lack of lubrication make them easier to maintain and repair.
- Wear out faster . Dry clutch wears out faster and requires replacement of the main working elements more often. The driving style directly affects the service life. For example, if you often drive with the clutch depressed or slippage, then the breakdown will come earlier.
- Additional noise . The friction created in dry clutches makes them louder, especially when something goes wrong.
For example, if you often drive with the clutch depressed or slippage, then the breakdown will come earlier.Photo: Shutterstock
Wet
“Wet clutch” immersed in oil. It lubricates the surfaces of rotating parts and cools them. Most often, such a clutch is used for multi-disc designs or on motorcycles. They also have their pros and cons:
- Service life . Lubrication prevents premature wear of moving parts. The reduced friction doesn’t reduce power too much, but better protects the transmission mechanics from damage.
- High performance . “Wet clutches” cope better with high temperatures by cooling all the elements.
- Complex repair . The multi-disk design is not easy, which affects maintenance.
- Oil contamination . The need for additional oil means that it will have to be changed, it may become dirty or leak.
The need for additional oil means that it will have to be changed, it may become dirty or leak.Electromagnetic clutch
Powered by electromagnet and armature. The first is mounted on the pressure plate, the second on the clutch cover. When current is supplied to the electromagnet from the generator, magnetic oscillations occur, which attract the armature to the magnet. A variety of electromagnetic clutch can be considered the so-called “powder”. It uses granules of ferromagnetic powder to create clamping force.
Hydraulic clutch
In vehicles with automatic transmission, torque is transmitted not by friction, but by oil flow and pressure. This is what the torque converter does. It consists of three paddle wheels immersed in the working fluid inside a sealed casing. A pump wheel is connected to the crankshaft of the internal combustion engine, and a turbine wheel to the gearbox. Between them, passing through the reactor, recirculates the liquid.
So the mechanical energy from the internal combustion engine is converted into hydraulic energy, which is then transferred to the planetary gear shift mechanism.
Clutch malfunctions
When the clutch does not fully engage or slips under heavy load, it is most likely due to the natural wear of parts. Over time, the friction discs wear out and become thinner, and the springs weaken. The sudden onset of clutch slip also indicates that the friction surfaces are contaminated with oil or something else. In hydraulic actuators, fluid leakage from the line can lead to a malfunction.
Photo: Shutterstock
How else does the clutch fail:
- Slippage . Usually occurs when the car is loaded or going uphill. It provokes heating and burning of friction linings or deformation of discs.
- Knocking or jerking . Often caused by oil or other liquids getting on the clutch linings. A deformed flywheel or a loose clutch cover can cause the problem.
- Hydraulic air . If he got there, he will take the place necessary for the liquid to create pressure. In the worst case, it will provoke a jamming of the mechanism.
- Incorrect rod adjustment . A sticky clutch is often a symptom of this problem. To resolve this, you need to adjust this connection.
- Drive failure . Cable rupture or stretching, damage to the hydraulic line.
Clutch slipping
Typically seen during hard acceleration or under load. Most often it is expressed in the fact that the engine speed is growing, but the speed is not or very slowly. There may be a smell of burning in the cabin, and a gear change is accompanied by crackling and other extraneous sounds. In addition, the dynamics of the car worsens and fuel consumption increases.
There are many reasons for a slipping clutch. In most cases, they are associated with wear parts or malfunctions in other systems.
Here are the most common ones:
- friction lining wear;
- clutch oiling;
- poorly adjusted drive;
- weakening of springs;
- disc warping.
Why the clutch is bled
As a rule, the need for bleeding occurs when the clutch pedal fails. There are many reasons for this, one of the main ones is the ingress of air into the hydraulic drive.
You can bleed the clutch yourself or at a workshop. In the first case, you will need an assistant. One will have to depress the pedal, creating pressure in the system, and the other will have to drain the fluid and carry out troubleshooting. There are ways to bleed the clutch alone, but they require some skill. Therefore, it is better to perform pumping at the service station.
In the process of bleeding the clutch, it is important to avoid a number of mistakes, especially even more air in the line. You should also choose the correct DOT fluid, work only on an adjusted clutch.
It is better to repeat the procedure several times.
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adv.rbc.ru
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disc, basket and how it works
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And how to use it so that it lasts longer
Alexey Fedorov
knows how to handle the clutch
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The clutch transmits torque from the engine to the gearbox and further to the wheels on machines with a manual or robotic gearbox.
It allows you to briefly disconnect the engine from the rest of the transmission.
Here’s what it’s for:
- To start the engine when the vehicle is stationary.
- Change gear.
- Move off smoothly.
In the article we will tell you how the clutch mechanism works, how it works and how much it costs to change it.
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Clutch made of
Flywheel is bolted to the engine crankshaft from the transmission side. Its task is to smooth out vibrations from the operation of the engine.
When the air-fuel mixture is ignited, the piston moves downward with acceleration. In a single-cylinder engine, the piston moves to the next working stroke precisely due to the inertia of the flywheel. If there are two or more cylinders in an internal combustion engine, the moments of ignition are spaced apart in time.
For example, in a VAZ in-line four, the mixture ignites first in the first, then in the third, fourth and second cylinders, respectively.
When the mixture is ignited in the first cylinder, the first piston receives acceleration, while it moves down, the piston in the third cylinder moves up, there is a compression stroke. Then the mixture ignites already in it, and the piston goes up in the fourth cylinder – and so on.
At the same time, the engine crankshaft rotates either with acceleration – during the working cycle, or with deceleration – during the compression stroke. The flywheel equalizes the speed of rotation of the crankshaft.
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Flywheel – a massive metal disc with a working area of the clutch disc. Bolted to the crankshaft tail, it has threaded holes and guide bushings that allow the clutch basket to be mounted on it. Also, along the outer radius of the flywheel, there is a ring gear of the starter drive.
Single-mass flywheel for manual transmission. Photo: Setta Sornnoi / Shuttertosck
Flywheels are:
- Single-mass – the simplest and most common, inexpensive to manufacture. Often, car owners resort to replacing a dual-mass flywheel with a single-mass flywheel, if this is constructively possible. They do this to save on spare parts or to deliver at least something if they promise to bring a normal two-mass flywheel only after ten weeks.
- Dual-mass vibration dampening is even better, they can often be found on a diesel engine. They also serve to smooth out sharp shocks and shocks. They can occur in the engine – for example, during detonation. Or maybe in the transmission if the car is driving on a bad road.
- Lightweight flywheels are mainly used in motorsports. They dampen vibrations worse, but allow the motor to gain momentum more easily. The gas pedal responds better, the car accelerates faster.
You can also find slotted thin metal flywheel.
It may seem lightweight, but it does not have a working surface of the clutch disc. There is only a ring gear and holes. Such a flywheel is called a driven disk, it is put on cars with a classic automatic transmission and a variator. They have a torque converter: it is quite heavy and copes well with the tasks of the flywheel.
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Driven plate with ring gear and round holes for attaching the torque converter. Oblong cutouts make the driven disc lighter. A classic design for cars with a torque converter automatic transmission. Photo: BACHTUB DMITRII / Shuttertosck
Clutch disc goes right behind the flywheel. It is installed on the input shaft splines of a manual or robotic gearbox and rotates with it.
Splines provide an inseparable connection between the disc and the input shaft, while allowing the disc to move along the axis of the shaft so that the clutch can be engaged and disengaged.
Outer part – friction lining.
It is attached to rivets on both sides of the disk. Damper springs dampen torsional vibrations when the clutch is engaged and disengaged. In the center is a splined clutch disc hub: the counterpart is on the gearbox input shaft. Clutch discs may differ externally in the shape and size of the friction lining, the number of damper springs, the diameter of the mounting hole and the number of slots in it, so you should choose the right clutch kit for each car. The outer part is the friction lining. It is attached to rivets on both sides of the disk. Damper springs dampen torsional vibrations when the clutch is engaged and disengaged. In the center is a splined clutch disc hub: the counterpart is on the gearbox input shaft. Clutch discs can differ externally in the shape and size of the friction lining, the number of damper springs, the diameter of the mounting hole and the number of slots in it, so you should choose the right clutch kit for each car
Clutch discs are also made of ceramic.
These do not have a single friction lining – there are several separate petals. The linings on them are made of cermet, sometimes with the addition of carbon or Kevlar. The disc is stronger and lasts longer. It will survive high loads and temperatures without any problems, which is why such discs are used in motorsport. But there are also disadvantages:
- Materials are more expensive, making the clutch disc more difficult.
- It is necessary to select a special flywheel and clutch basket for such a disc – the standard ones will not work.
- The clutch engages as soon as the clutch pedal is released: it is unlikely that you will be able to move off smoothly. This is unacceptable for everyday city driving. The motor and transmission are subjected to shock loads.
- Stiff clutch pedal. The case is in a basket with a reinforced pressure spring. They say you can get used to it, but there is little pleasure.
Sintered clutch disc with six individual petals.
Damper springs – like on a conventional clutch disc, but sports sintered metal can be without them. Photo: Warut Wetsanarut / Shuttertosck
Clutch basket is literally the casing that covers the clutch disc. This is what it consists of:
- Body. It is bolted to the flywheel along the outer radius.
- Belleville spring with petals visible in the center of the basket. The spring creates a force that allows you to engage the clutch.
- Pressure plate. Interacts directly with the friction lining of the clutch disc. A belleville spring presses on it.
Basket clutch discs are also available in lighter and reinforced cup springs. It is not worth taking all this separately: a reinforced – sports – clutch will have to be selected as a set.
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The clutch basket is the first thing you see when you remove the gearbox. This particular one is clean because the clutch kit is brand new. The old basket is usually dark from the dust that forms when the friction lining is worn out.
Sports clutch kit. The body with cutouts makes the basket lighter. The flywheel was attached to it with 12 bolts. There are also more rivets holding the spring. Photo: CNPSRP / Shuttertosck
The clutch actuator is needed to control the clutch. Here’s what it consists of:
- Release bearing. Literally squeezes the spring petals and at the same time disengages the clutch.
- Clutch fork: manual transmission and single clutch robot – one, double clutch robot – two. A lever that transmits force from the slave cylinder to the release bearing.
- Slave cylinder. It stands on the gearbox housing near the clutch and puts pressure on the clutch fork.
- Clutch master cylinder. It is installed under the clutch pedal, from which it receives force and transfers it through the line to the working cylinder.
- Clutch pedal. On a car with a manual transmission, the first on the left.
Clutch master and slave cylinders – hydraulically actuated.
Works with brake fluid from the same tank as the brakes, less often from a separate one. During maintenance, make sure that the fluid is also changed in the clutch slave cylinder – it also has a bleeder valve, just like on brake calipers. The clutch is pumped after the release bearing has been replaced – if it is in the same housing as the slave cylinder. And also after replacing any parts of the hydraulic drive.
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The clutch can be mechanical and work through rods or cables. The design is simpler and cheaper, but you will have to press harder on the clutch pedal. Less comfort.
How does
work in manual transmission. Let’s recall the details of the clutch mechanism, which were discussed above, and consider them in the diagram.
In the normal state, the clutch is always engaged, the rotation from the engine is transmitted to the input shaft of the gearbox. The neutral on a manual transmission exists just so that the engine runs on a stationary car without a depressed clutch.
In order to change gear or move off smoothly, you must first disengage the clutch – disconnect the connection between the engine and the box. Here’s how it goes:
- The driver presses the clutch pedal.
- The master cylinder piston pressurizes the brake fluid, which in turn presses on the slave cylinder piston.
- The slave cylinder rod extends and moves the clutch fork.
- Fork through the hinge on the gearbox housing presses on the release bearing.
- The bearing presses against the spring petals.
- Belleville spring flexes on hinges inside the basket.
- The force of the pressure plate drops, a gap forms between the plate and the flywheel, the clutch is disengaged.
The direction of movement of the cup spring and pressure plate is shown by arrows.
On the robotic gearboxes, the clutch is arranged in the same way, but there is no pedal. The control unit is responsible for engaging, disengaging the clutch and shifting gears.
In the case of the classic automatic and variator , a torque converter is used instead of the clutch mechanism. Inside it is automatic transmission oil or variator fluid, through which it transmits rotation to the gearbox. The torque converter is free to slip, so it always transfers torque from the engine to the gearbox, even if the gear is engaged and the car is stationary.
Clutch life
Clutch is easy to burn literally at a time, if you skid off-road for a long time or try to pull out, for example, a frame SUV in a passenger car. The thing is the load, under which even a good clutch will start to overheat and slip.
A burnt clutch is not always worn out. It will stop working not because the pads are worn out: they overheat, lose their properties and cannot catch on the flywheel and pressure plate. This also happens with brakes. If you brake often and sharply, the brake pedal becomes cottony, it is useless to press it.
The pads overheat, the surfaces of the brake lining and disc become glassy, the car cannot slow down.
Brake pads: why you need them, how to choose the right one and when to change them In this case, the vehicle moves evenly: the driver rarely has to depress the clutch, change gears and move off.
During the urban cycle, all this happens often and negatively affects the clutch life. Depending on the driving style and the literacy of operating a car with a manual transmission, the clutch on city cars works without problems from 15,000 to 200,000 km or more. There are drivers who change the clutch as often as the oil in the engine. The reason for this is the habit of keeping your foot on the clutch pedal.
Many people don’t take their foot off the clutch just because it’s more comfortable for them. Beginners also have problems with premature wear: on training cars in driving schools, the clutch is changed almost once every 7000-8000 km. Not all beginners quickly manage to wean themselves from this and on their car.
The clutch also breaks, but you have to change it yourself. Usually the habit of keeping the foot on the clutch goes away after one or two replacements.
What spare parts to service: original or analogues
An original part is almost always better in terms of quality, durability and compatibility. The original clutch kit will fit the car exactly, and the pedal will be depressed comfortably. The main disadvantage is the price.
Of the good non-original kits, you should pay attention to LUK and SACHS. You have to be careful with Chinese manufacturers. The price will be attractive, but there is a risk of buying a clutch that will not physically fit your car, even if a good specialist picks it up. Mounting holes, disc diameter, basket shape, and so on may not match.
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Once I had to put a cheap Chinese clutch on my car. She has a non-standard gearbox, so before selecting components, it was necessary to remove the gearbox and look at the number on the old clutch.
There was no opportunity to wait for the original, the car would have stood up for almost a month.
The first launch was unsuccessful: there was a terrible rattle. It stopped almost immediately, the car drove as if nothing had happened, but after about six months the clutch began to slip. It turned out that the petals of the basket touched the body of the box. I was lucky they didn’t go through it, but the belleville spring was also damaged. I replaced the kit with a better one, since there were already numbers of the necessary spare parts, and the problem was gone.
How much does it cost to replace
The cost of replacing a clutch kit is usually reduced to the cost of removing and installing the gearbox and starts from 6000 R, depending on the complexity of the operation. This money is enough to change the clutch on the Skoda Rapid: the box is easy to remove.
The price will be much higher if it is an 4×4 off-road vehicle, which may require removal of the subframe, corner gear and partial exhaust system disassembly.
Price — from 10 000 R.
Which drive to choose: RWD, FWD, 4WD or AWD
Prices for a clutch kit start at about 3000 R when it comes to a Zhiguli clutch. From 7000 R is a clutch for budget foreign cars like Hyundai Solaris, Volkswagen Polo Sedan or Skoda Rapid.
If you have experience in car repair, you can save money by renting a lift from a self-service service. Prices start from 200 R per hour. An experienced locksmith copes with the task in two to three hours. It makes sense to take a partner with you. It is better to remove and install the gearbox with two people, otherwise there is a risk of injury and damage to the gearbox.
Remember
- A clutch that is properly used lasts the longest. The less the driver keeps his foot on the clutch pedal, the less often it has to be changed.
- Try to avoid unnecessary loads: do not pull the machine on the cable if it is larger and heavier than yours. If the car is seriously stuck off-road, it may be more profitable to ask the person on the frame SUV for help than to burn the clutch.
