Holy boulders guidebook: Access Fund – Holy Boulders
Access Fund – Holy Boulders
In 2012, the former landowners decided to sell their 80-acre family farmstead, which included some of the best sandstone boulders in the Midwest. Local climbers Dave Chancellor of Climb So Ill and Leif Faber of the Illinois Climbers Association (ICA) reached out to the landowners and
the Access Fund to help protect this hidden gem of the American bouldering community. To prevent an indefinite closure, Access Fund purchased the property using over $300,000 from the Climbing Conservation Loan Program, with the long-term plan of transferring the property to a non-profit organization or public agency.
After subdivision and resale of the farm lots, four years of fundraising and trail improvements, and extensive collaboration with local climbers, BETA Fund, and ICA, Access Fund transferred the 46-acre bouldering area to ICA for long-term ownership and management in 2016. Access Fund holds a permanent conservation and recreation easement to back up ICA’s long-term commitment, ensuring continued conservation and climbing access at the Holy Boulders into perpetuity.
The Holy Boulders have attracted professional climbers and strong athletes from around the country. The area features over 200 developed problems and potential for more that climbers of all abilities can enjoy.
The Holy Boulders were originally part of an 80-acre tract of farm and forestland that the Tripp family had owned for over 47 years. In 2004, local climber Aaron Brouwer discovered the Holy Boulders from aerial photographs and introduced himself to the landowner. After initial concerns of liability, the family gave climbers verbal permission to climb at the boulders. For eight years climbers maintained a positive relationship with the Tripp Family, offering small tokens of appreciation and keeping information word-of-mouth so as not to jeopardize access. In May of 2012 climbers spotted For Sale signs on the property and learned that the landowners were planning to sell the property.
The Holy Boulders are in Jackson County, Southern Illinois. It is 30 minutes southwest of Carbondale; 2.5 from St. Louis; 2.5 from Evansville; 3.5 from Nashville; and 5.5 hours from Chicago. It is nestled on the western slopes of Shawnee National Forest on both public and private land. The boulders and cliff line sit on forested slopes just east of the Big Muddy River and its confluence with the Mississippi River.
Driving and hiking directions: There are two parking areas off Macedonia Road to the west of the property. Click here for driving directions to the trailhead. From the northern end directly across from FS Road 2078, spot a hiking trail just before a road cut to the powerline easement. Follow this path in the trees along a small stream before crossing the powerline cut. After 15 minutes (2/3 mile), you cross into ICA property and come to a small kiosk at the Mollusk boulder. Please remember that parking and the initial approach are on Shawnee National Forest – please leave no trace and do not improve the trail.
Photos by Phillip Carrier and Abbey Smith
Holy Boulders: The Pilgrimage Tickets, Sat, Nov 6, 2021 at 7:30 AM
The Illinois Climbers Association is proud to present “Holy Boulders: The Pilgrimage” on November 6th, 2021. Nestled on a Southern Illinois hillside, the Holy Boulders is a world-class bouldering area offering classic lines of all grades on perfectly textured sandstone. Help us to continue to raise funds for the Holy Boulders to ensure access to future generations while testing your skills on some of the finest boulders in the country.
Early Bird Registration is $65 and open through September 30th.
Registration after September 30th will be $75.
Spectators Tickets are $15.
Current ICA Members receive a $10 discount code. Click here to become an ICA Member! Members will receive a email with more information.
Your competitor registration includes:
Friday night film outside at competition site (weather dependent).
Entrance to Holy Boulders: The Pilgrimage
After Party with the Swamp Tigers
HB The Pilgrimage hooded sweatshirts are available through pre-order only. Please order yours when purchasing your ticket. Hooded sweatshirts WILL NOT be available at the comp.
Entrace to Holy Boulders comp for spectating only
Men’s Categories: Beginner (V0-V2)
Stonemaster – Ages 40+
Circuitmaster – Most Cumulative Points
Youth – Ages 13 and under
How do I pick my category? Please choose a category based on whether or not you could complete two previously unclimbed problems (in a given day) of that grade. That will likely put you into the appropriate category. Be honest, we have and will bump sandbaggers.
Friday November 5th
(INCLUDED IN COMPETITOR TICKET PRICE):
Competition Site Pomona
2:00 pm Competition Site opens
4:00 pm Competitor and Spectator Check in begins
7:00pm Classic Climbing Film Screenings
Saturday November 6th
7:30am – Registration opens
9am – Competition Begins
3pm – Climbing Ends
4:30 – Awards
After Party to follow with the Swamp Tigers
Sunday November 7th Finish yesterday’s projects! Pack out all trash.
Note: While the Holy Boulders is always open to the public, the competition camping, staging area, and awards are held on private property and is only open to the public during the competition.
Waiver You can download a waiver at: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_xAxFqcWD-4OGxCRkN4SUVINHM/view?usp=drivesdk&resourcekey=0-wfgYrs2rVKuWiDCLPhJEbA
Please return your signed waiver to [email protected]. com
What are the camping and parking options? Parking and camping will be available on site to all competitors and participants Friday and Saturday nights (11/5 & 11/6). Please carpool if you can!
Other Places To Stay: For information on other lodging options including bed and breakfasts and cabin rentals, please visit: http://www.carbondaletourism.org/categories/stay
Spectators Due to space restriction spectators are $15 to join in the fun and walk through the boulders during the competition. Please note that climbers always have the right of way and ONLY COMPETITORS CAN CLIMB during compettion hours!
Bring Extra Cash! For food, raffles and more!
Can I update my registration information? Yes, you can update your registration. Email [email protected]
Dogs? NO DOGS!!!
Rain Date In event of rain or inclimate weather, the competition will be held on Sunday November 7th.
Where can I contact the organizer with any questions? Please email [email protected] with any additional questions!
The Happy Boulders and the Sads
Heading to Bishop to go bouldering at the Happy Boulders, or the Sads? Be sure to get the beta before you go.
Welcome to Part 2 of our Bishop Bouldering Guide. In case you missed it, check out our Bishop Bouldering Guide Part 1: The Buttermilks to get the scoop on travel tips, climbing etiquette, and the history of the Payahuunadü.
Ok, so you checked out The Buttermilks and you’ve had your fill of crispy temps and high balls? Time to explore the Volcanic Table Lands, which includes The Happy Boulders and The Sads. Get ready for some powerful pulling, balancey face climbs, and yea, a few more high balls. Hope you like pockets!
– Bridget Kilgallon @bkall. day
The rock in the tablelands is volcanic, which means LOTS of pockets. Prepare your fingers and don’t forget to warm up with some tendon gliding exercises.
- Classic volcanic stone in the Happies.
- Well, there’s still a few high balls.
Trip Beta: Travel Tips for Bishop bouldering
Head up the 395 until you see the mountains. The town of Bishop is one of the small mountain towns you’ll encounter on the way. While in town, don’t forget to visit us at Têra Kaia Bishop! Our new home base is set to open Spring of 2020. Follow our progress on Instagram at @terakaiabishop.
Bishop bouldering is divided into three main areas:
- The Buttermilks: Huge highballs with a backdrop of snowy mountains.
- The Sads: Steep pocketed caves and shade from the desert heat.
- The Happies: Volcanic and dynamic problems on pockets.
- Balance is key in the Happies
- Get ready for small pockets
Access: Climbing Etiquette for Bishop Bouldering
As always, be sure to educate yourself on leave no trace principles for the area. Read more about the seven principles of Leave No Trace (LNT) in our article: What is the Leave No Trace Philosophy?
Looking for some nearby Southern California bouldering destinations? Check out the guides below:
Bishop Bouldering Part 1: The Buttermilks
Joshua Tree Bouldering
Black Mountain Bouldering
Girl Beta: Bouldering Videos for Bishop
Sometimes it helps to get another woman’s perspective on which boulder problems to get on. Below you’ll find a selection of female favorites, and a great roadmap on which routes to add to your tick list when visiting Bishop.
Warning: If you’re climbing onsight, scroll no further. Spoilers ahead!
Had your fill of crispy temps and high balls? Head to the Happies for some powerful pulling on pockets.
Corner – V0
Jackie Trejo climbs Corner V0 in Bishop, CA
Monkey Hang – V3
Maggie Gierard climbs Monkey Hang V3 in Bishop, CA
Black Magic – V3 *High Ball*
Amanda Jaramillo climbs the classic high ball Black Magic V3 in Bishop, CA
Joseph – V3
Amanda Jaramillo climbs the classic Solarium V4 in Bishop, CA
Rene – V5 *High Ball*
Amanda Jaramillo climbs the high ball Rene V5 in Bishop, CA
The Gleaner – V6
Amanda Jaramillo climbs Every Color You Are V6 in Bishop, CA
Hamtaro – V8
Amanda Jaramillo climbs Hamtaro V8 in Bishop, CA
Disco Diva – V8
Amanda Jaramillo climbs Strength in Numbers V5 in Bishop, CA
Molly – V5
Sonia Rackelmann climbs Molly V5 in Bishop CA
Erotic Terrorist – V6
Amanda Jaramillo climbs Feeding Frenzy aka Green Room V7 in Bishop, CA
Pow Pow – V8
Can you say holy heel hook? Amanda Jaramillo climbs Pow Pow V8 in Bishop, CA
Water Hazard Right – V8
Amanda Jaramillo climbs Water Hazard V10 in Bishop, CA
Beefcake – V10
Amanda Jaramillo climbs Beef Cake V10 in Bishop, CA
Heading back to the milks? Get the beta with our Bishop Bouldering Guide Part 1: The Buttermilks
Big shout out to the climbers who provided these videos! You can follow their sends on the following links:
Would you like to contribute a beta video for Bishop? If so, just contact us below:
15 Best Bouldering Spots in the US [America’s Top Boulders]
While there is no shortage of Bouldering spots in the US, some stick out above the rest.
The main things that make a Bouldering location “world class” are:
- Quality Boulder Problems
- Rock Quality
- Accessibility (Camping etc.)
- Guide Book in Print
The following areas are places you can either take a quick weekend trip to or spend the entire season.
For all locations within a National Park please click the link for the latest details.
If you are planning a big road trip through some of these areas make sure you read the Car Camping guide to save yourself some money and time.
#1 Joe’s Valley
Season: Late Fall, Early Spring
Problems: 430+ on MP and tons of undeveloped rock
Rock Type: Sandstone
Accessibility: Free Climbing, Under 5 min Approaches, Free Camping, Food Ranch
Guide Book: Multiple but none in print (as of late 2017)
Joes Valley is an easy choice for this list. The rock quality is impeccable and the problems range from beginner to insane. The approaches for Joe’s can be done in flip flops so you can leave your hiking boots at home.
If you are a dirtbag, Joe’s is the place for you. Getting by on only a few hundred bucks a month is quite easy here considering the climbing and camping is 100% free. Also, the locate climber hangout, The Food Ranch, offers you anything you will need during your stay. You can pick up chalk, brushes, food, water, and even gas for a surprisingly low price.
The only real set back for Joe’s is that guidebooks are hard to come by. There have been multiple books published over the years but none of them are currently in print. Mountain Project is rather good for Joe’s but if you can snag a book it will definitely help!
#2 Bishop CA
Season: Winter (Fall and Spring possible)
Problems: 1000+ on MP
Rock Type: Granite, Volcanic
Accessibility: Free Climbing, Short Approaches, Cheap Camping, Gear Shops in Town
Guide Book: Yes, easy to get
There is a wide variety of Bouldering in Bishop. The Buttermilks are the gem of the area but you can also hang out at the Volcanic Table in the Happy and Sads. In the warmer months, you can also Boulder in Mammoth less than an hour away.
The Buttermilks are quite unique. Upon your arrival, you will find 2 monster 50-60′ high boulders called Grandpa and Grandma Peabody. Don’t worry there are much more manageable blocks in the field. There is something for everyone at the Milks so just take your pick.
Camping is easy at The Pit but you have to pay a small fee (around $2 a night). You can also find free camping at some of the BLM lands around the town. Make sure you know the rules.
#3 Rocktown & Stone Fort (Chattanooga TN)
Season: Winter (Late Fall and Early Spring possible)
Problems: 400+ on MP
Rock Type: Bullet Sandstone
Accessibility: Free or Paid Climbing, Easy Approaches, Free Camping, Near Chattanooga
Guide Book: Yes and Yes
Stone Fort and Rocktown are both just outside of Chattanooga TN. We listed them together because they are not a destination by themselves but together they challenge the best crags in the States.
Rocktown has “free” camping and climbing but you need to buy a Georgia Wildlife pass. The fee is minimal and you can read more about it here. The approach to Rocktown takes about 15-20 mins and is fairly flat. The guidebook is good and the field is dense with classics.
Little Rock City (Stone Fort) is one of the most densely packed boulder fields around. The front area has over 100 problems alone. The downside to LRC is it costs around $8 to climb every day. This can add up fast but its worth it. Camping is not currently available at Stone Fort so we suggest you travel back to Rocktown for the night.
#4 Hueco Tanks
Season: Winter (Late Fall and Early Spring possible)
Problems: 400+ on MP
Rock Type: Granite
Accessibility: Paid Climbing, Easy Approaches, Paid Camping, Limited Access
Guide Book: None in print but PDF available at gear shop
Just outside of El Paso Texas, Hueco Tanks State Park holds some of the oldest and most classic bouldering problems in America. The park is the birthplace of the V-scale and filled with climbing culture and history.
The main issue with Hueco is the access. You can only go to 1 of the 4 mountains in the park without a guide. This can be frustrating when you want to get off of North Mountain. However, it will take you awhile to work through everything on North Mountain so don’t get worried.
There is also a limited number of people allowed in the park each day. You have to make a reservation about 3 months in advance to have guaranteed access. There are 10 walk-up passes issued each day so you can try that if you show up last minute but there is no guarantee.
Season: Summer (Fall if it’s dry)
Problems: 200+ on MP (way more in the book)
Rock Type: Granite
Accessibility: Free Climbing
Guide Book: Yes a very extensive and complete one
Well, technically Squamish is not in the United States. It’s actually in British Columbia, Canada. That being said it is only about 2 hours over the border so we will count it.
Bouldering in Squamish is mainly at the base of the Stawamus Chief, a huge granite monolith just south of town. The Chief is the iconic feature of the area and is the center of all the climbing culture in Squamish. Bouldering is done of the large block that fell from the Chief over the years.
The rock in Squamish is similar to the granite you find other places in the PNW. Bullet hard with excellent texture and friction. Anytime it’s not wet the climbing here is as good as anything.
#6 Red Rock
Problems: 250+ on MP
Rock Type: Sandstone
Accessibility: Free and Paid Climbing, No Free Camping
Guide Book: Yes
Sin City has more to offer than just gambling and drinking, it has Red Rock Canyon. Kraft Boulders is the classic area just outside of the actual Red Rock Park. Kraft is where you will find most of the best lines that Vegas has to offer.
It can get quite hot here in the warmer months so definitely plan a trip in the winter time and try to find shade during the day.
Camping in Vegas is less than ideal. It’s something ridiculous like $15 a night with no water and just a pit toilet. The good news is that hotels are very cheap here so if you want to relax you can always get a room.
If it rains while you are there, which is rather unlikely, you will need to wait to climb until the rock dries out. Many holds have broken throughout the years so please respect the boulders.
Problems: 200+ on MP
Rock Type: Granite
Accessibility: Must pay admission to park
Guide Book: Yes
Summer bouldering in the Alpine! Yes, it is possible at Rocky Mountain National Park.
Located just west of Denver Colorado this Nation Park is home to multiple 14k foot Mountains are tons of boulders.
You will not be able to climb any time other than the summer due to the extreme weather and temperatures at this altitude.
These extreme conditions make it such a treat to get on these amazing granite mountaintop boulders.
Make sure you make it up to the park for a summer bouldering session this year!
Problems: 500+ on MP
Rock Type: Volcanic, Basalt, Limestone, and Sandstone
Accessibility: Mostly Free Climbing and Camping (see individual areas)
Guide Book: MP and Blog Guide
It is possible to Boulder all year in the beautiful desert of Northern Arizona. With the wide variety of rock types and elevations, you can always find something that works for you.
With so many areas are tons of 5-star problems you will never run out of something to climb. Also if you are into developing this may be on of the best places for you!
Season: Late Spring to Early Fall
Problems: 200+ on MP
Rock Type: Granite
Accessibility: Free Climbing and Camping
Guide Book: Yes
Leavenworth WA is a small faux German town located east of Seattle. Its main tourism is driven by its German culture and festivals but the real gem of the area is the bouldering in Icicle Canyon.
Here you will find many powerful gym style bouldering problems set in the eastern Cascade Mountains. This is a wonderful place to be anytime the weather is nice. The approaches are very short and the rock produces many high-quality problems.
The rock can be quite flakey in some areas which is the one downside to this location.
Season: Spring to Fall (Summer can be hot)
Problems: 200+ on MP
Rock Type: Granite
Accessibility: Must pay to access park
Guide Book: Yes
Yosemite, the birthplace of climbing in the US. How could we not mention this world-renowned location on this list? Although bouldering is not the main feature of the valley it is still some of the best climbing around.
Where else can you be working a project while watching Honnold Free Solo El Cap?
Camp 4 is the home base for climbing in America and home to some boulders that have been climbed on from the beginning. If you end up in the Valley and decide that a 3000′ cliff is too heady for you enjoy the boulders and get some great sends!
Problems: 300+ on MP
Rock Type: Sandstone
Accessibility: Paid Climbing and Camping
Guide Book: Yes
Slapping slopers and miserable top out are all in a good days fun at Horse Pens. Who knew that Alabama would have such an amazing bouldering destination.
HP40 is not a place for inflating your ego. The tough man southern pride thing is very apparent with some of the grading.
You have to fail at Bumboy V3 at least 50 times before you get it to make it a true Horse Pens experience.
Camping is available only a few feet from the boulders but it is not free. The Schultz family owns and operates the field and has a nice general store right on the property for all your last minute climbing needs.
Enjoy your time getting beat up on Horse Pens wonderful Sandstone Slopers!
Season: Spring and Fall
Problems: 600+ on MP
Rock Type: Granite
Accessibility: Free Climbing
Guide Book: None in print (MP is good)
Live Free or Die, the slogan of the state of New Hampshire. Good thing that climbing at Pway is FREE!
Get ready to enjoy some of the most textured rock in the country. This grippy granite will shred your tips if you aren’t careful.
The problems are stiff at Pawtuckaway but the climbing is great. Located near Boston and the famous sport climbing spot Rumney, Pway is the premier bouldering spot in New England. Make sure to stop by whenever you get a chance.
#13 Joshua Tree
Problems: 1000+ on MP
Rock Type: Granite
Accessibility: Paid to access park, Free camping in BLM
Guide Book: Yes
While Jtree is better known for its amazing trad climbing, it is also a great place to boulder. Make sure to put your ego aside when you do the Jtree. Most classic lines were put up by John Bachar himself and the grades reflect that.
If you are a novice climber be careful when getting on any highballs are sketchy climbs. It’s safe to say that the hardest grade in the park is V1. If Bachar called it a V1 in the 70’s it’s probably more like a current day V7.
Camping isn’t cheap at Hidden Valley but you can camp for free in the overflow BLM lot just outside the park.
#14 The Gunks
Season: Spring and Fall
Problems: 200+ on MP
Rock Type: Quartz Conglomerate
Accessibility: Paid Climbing
Guide Book: Yes
The Shawangunks are located in Upstate New York only a short drive from NYC. This destination is mainly a rope climbing area but many bouldering problems have been developed over the years.
You can climb anything from V0 up to V13+ so there is something for everyone.
Admission to the Gunks is steep at a whopping $20 a day. An annual pass is available as well. It may be worth it.
If with the high admission price it is still one of the most classic areas in the states so don’t miss it!
#15 Holy Boulders
Problems: 150+ on MP
Rock Type: Sandstone
Accessibility: Free Climbing and Camping
Guide Book: No
SoIll like as in Southern Illinois. Yup, that’s what that stands for and this place is most likely what they are talking about. This is really the wild card of this list.
This is really the wild card of this list, but we feel it deserves to make the cut.
The only area in the Midwest we mention and possibly the one with the best rock quality. This is something holy about this boulder field. You have to check it out if you are anywhere near here.
Winter is definitely the best time to climb here to get the best friction and avoid all of nature’s favorite 6 and 8 legged creatures…
Currently, there is no guidebook in print but Mountain project is very helpful.
Access fund recently purchased the land so we can hope to enjoy this boulder field for years to come.
I can be a little hard to find your way around so we are currently drafting a little guide for the area so stay tuned.
Wrapping it up
We hope you enjoyed our top 15 Bouldering spots in the US. If you are blessed enough to have been to all 15 spots then you are one lucky person.
Please vote on the poll below to tell us what your favorite Bouldering Crag is and if you don’t see your favorite tell us in the comments below.Loading …
Owner and Operator of Every Last Rock. He is dedicated to spreading the Stoke about all things climbing. Often found Bouldering around the US and obsessively training.
What is Bouldering in Rock Climbing: Explained
There are many types of rock out there, with all sorts of shapes and sizes. It turns out you don’t need to rope-up to reach every summit. At least, not when you’re Alex Honnold…or while bouldering.
Whether you have no clue as to what bouldering is at all, or are looking to expand your knowledge on the subject, this is the article for you!
Hey! By the way… this page contains affiliate links. So if you make a purchase after clicking one at no cost to you we may earn a small commission. Thanks for your support!So, Really, What is Bouldering?
Bouldering is one of the many exciting forms of rock climbing and can be done indoors and outdoors. It is a unique sport in itself (making its way into the 2021 Olympics), as well as a useful tool to improve strength and skills for better performance in other climbing styles.
Bouldering routes, called “problems”, are done without a rope and harness.
Instead, crash pads are placed underneath the climber to soften their fall. Crash pads are portable, thick rectangular mats.
In a gym setting, heavy-duty padding is permanently affixed to the ground underneath the climbs. This is so you don’t have to worry about bringing your own.
Another element of safety in bouldering are “spotters”. People stand near the climber to “spot” them from falling in a bad position.
Spotting is done more often in outdoor bouldering than indoors, as the landing area can be less than ideal outside.There are no random rocks, twigs, and trees next to routes in the gym!
Outdoor boulder problems are usually on actual boulders: big, stand-alone chunks of rock that used to be a part of a larger formation. They can range from super short to super tall and vary in overall size.
“High balls” are super tall boulder problems that verge on being extremely dangerous. You shouldn’t worry about getting on these until you are an advanced climber, hopefully with lots of good crash pads and experienced spotters.
A reasonable height for the average boulder problem is around ten feet. The same applies in a gym setting.
However, just because a boulder problem is not that high off the ground does not mean it won’t be that difficult. It could be a long traverse, requiring a lot of endurance. Or it could be on a roof: a super overhanging rock that puts the climber in a nearly upside-down body position.
Ultimately, the goal is for the climber to complete the problem and surmount the boulder.
At the climbing gym, completing a problem involves reaching a marked “finish hold” in a controlled manner. There are usually no free-standing structures for bouldering in a gym, so you must climb down to get back to the ground.
In outdoor bouldering, the climber must pull up and stand on top of the boulder above the problem to be considered as having completed it (except for the occasional arbitrarily located problem in caves and such).
To get back down to the ground, the climber can either “walk off” or down-climb on an easier section of the boulder. Many natural boulders slant towards the ground on one side, and so can literally be walked off of.The Benefits of Bouldering
Because boulder problems are much shorter than roped climbs, they generally have a higher amount of difficult moves over a smaller span of distance.
Like the hardest sequence of moves (a.k.a. “crux”) on a rope climb, a boulder problem requires full attention and body tension from start to finish. The harder the grade, the more involved it becomes.
As a result, bouldering is a more physically powerful form of climbing, often demanding a great deal of explosive strength.
It also takes a lot of body awareness and technique. A bouldering problem is, simply stated, a puzzle unlocked with the body and the mind. The types of moves and holds you must navigate through become more complex and challenging with increased levels of difficulty.
Starting on the easier grades and working your way up allows you to develop such strength, physical awareness, and technique.
These traits are great for your overall physical health and can help improve your performance in other climbing styles (and even other sports and activities, too).
Roped sport and trad climbs often have very tough cruxes with big moves. They are like mini boulder problems spaced between stretches of more moderate climbing. Developing power and strength through bouldering will allow you to crush those moves and push into harder grades in roped climbing.
Not to mention, bouldering requires a lot less investment than all the other climbing styles. You don’t need a rope, harness, quickdraws, double rack of cams and nuts, belay device, slings, carabiners, and the extensive knowledge of how to use the stuff…I almost lost my breath typing out that list!
For bouldering, just some crash pads and maybe a spotter or a few will do. And endless stoke, of course.
Is Bouldering Dangerous?
At this point, you might be thinking, “But going up that high? With just pads?! That’s insane! I don’t even want to do it with a rope!”
Take a deep breath. You’re not crazy by being concerned about the dangers. Rock climbing can quickly become very dangerous.
However, that danger can be reduced to near non-existence by getting certified instruction, being prepared, and making the right calculations based on your skill level.
This goes for both bouldering and roped climbing.
In bouldering, the greatest risk is not falling. Falling is guaranteed – it is a part of the process of figuring out how to climb a problem successfully. This process is called “projecting”.
Rather, the greatest risk is falling incorrectly. This happens when:
- You do not know how to fall
- You do not have an adequate amount of crash pads
- Your crash pads are not placed correctly
- In instances where you need spotters, you have bad spotters
- And when, due to bad luck, you just don’t land well.
To put things in perspective: Professional boulderer Alex Puccio tore her ACL just a few feet off the mat in a climbing gym. Professional boulderer Nina Williams has sent extremely tough problems outdoors up to 50ft tall without severe injury.
Just like driving a car, you become a lot safer of a driver with more training and experience. Likewise, sometimes you get into accidents due to factors out of your control…and just plain bad luck. But you still get into a vehicle anyway!
So don’t let the risks of climbing dissuade you – but don’t feel like you have to climb a high ball to have fun and be a good boulderer.How To Start Bouldering?
The best way to get into bouldering is to go to your nearest climbing gym.
There, you can rent the gear you need and get thorough, in-person instruction on how to boulder indoors.
Doing this is a great way to try it out in a controlled environment, with lots of padded mats to fall onto.
It’s also a good idea to go a few times and see if you actually enjoy bouldering enough to commit to before investing in expensive climbing equipment.
There are many folks of all different skill levels who go to the climbing gym. The more often you go, the more likely you are to make friends who can project routes with you and may even be interested in going on outdoor trips together.
If you become interested in bouldering outside, check if your gym or local REI provides clinics on spotting, etiquette, and general outdoor bouldering safety.Equipment For Bouldering
To boulder in a gym, the only gear you need is climbing shoes, chalk, and a chalk bag or bouldering bucket.
You can usually rent these from the gym for a small fee.
Gym rentals can get the job done when you first start climbing, but become less ideal for more difficult levels of climbs.
If you intend to get more involved with the sport, consider purchasing your own. Climbing shoes are not cheap, but they do make a big difference for advancing your technical footwork.
You can also ask the staff at your gym if they host any used gear sales or visiting brand reps with special discounts.
In regards to chalk, don’t sweat it (literally).
Some climbers will argue that certain chalks are better than others. When you’re first getting started, don’t worry about it too much. As long as it serves its function – keeping the skin on your palms dry so you don’t slip off climbing holds – that’s all that matters. Frank Endo chalk is an excellent, low-cost option.
Always remember: wearing name brand climbing clothing and using pricey Friction Labs chalk won’t necessarily make you a better climber, but getting stronger will.Check Price and Reviews On Amazon
Be sure to get a chalk bucket so that you can keep the chalk contained, and easily coat your hands in it when needed.
Once you are ready to make the transition to outdoor bouldering, you will also need to purchase crash pad(s).
A great budget option is the Metolius Session II.Check Price and Reviews On Amazon
For a higher performing pad, consider purchasing one from Organic.
Outdoor boulders are not like the gym. They do not already have big cushions underneath them. Rather, they have solid ground, potentially riddled with big rocks and stiff roots that won’t be pleasant to fall on even from just a couple feet up.
Start off with a pad or two, and consider investing in climbing friendships. The more people you have to go on a bouldering trip with, the better.
This is because, if everyone brings one crash pad each, you will have ample protection without denting your own wallet and will avoid struggling to the boulder field carrying four pads alone like an overburdened turtle.
The more the merrier. Also, the more spotters!What Is Spotting?
The spotter’s job is to direct the climber to a good spot when they fall. It is not to try and catch the climber. (The job title is not “catcher” out of pure coincidence!)
A good spotter can be the difference between bad fall and a good one. They can also make for good cheerleaders! Therefore, it’s always a good idea to have at least one or two around; and to learn how to become a good one yourself, so you can watch out for your friends’ safety.
Usually, indoor bouldering has such extensive, heavy padding underneath the problems that spotting isn’t necessary.
That being said, it is a good idea to learn and practice spotting in a gym before heading to the fields outside.
From watching others, you may think spotting entails standing near the climber on-route with your arms outstretched in the air. Like you’re worshiping the boulder or something…
Let’s start by acknowledging that spotting is way more complex and critical than it seems.
There are many good spotting techniques, which vary according to different boulder problems and environments.
In general, the spotter should:
- Maintain an athletic stance, with one foot in front of the other
- Hold out their arms in a slightly-bent fashion (for maximum stability and control)
- Cup the hands, with thumbs pulled in, to prevent finger injury
- Be ready to lightly grab the climber around the waist to guide them into the safest landing position.
- Do everything possible to keep the climber falling in an upright position and protect their spine, neck, and head from impact
Another important part of spotting is adjusting the placement of the crash pads.
The boulder problem should be examined before the first attempt – particularly for crux-y spots where the climber will most likely fall. The crash pads should then be placed accordingly, without any gaps between them, and covering any rocks or roots that could twist an ankle.
The boulder problem may traverse a lot, and so pads will need to be moved as the climber goes.
If a climber falls on multiple attempts, pads might shift and cause gaps to open up between them. It’s important to re-evaluate and re-adjust the landing zone after every attempt.
Consider purchasing Organic’s Blubber pad to also help cover up gaps between multiple pads.
Always pay attention to how and where the climber falls on each attempt. This can help you refine the pad arrangement, as well as the way in which you spot them.
And the way in which you spot will rarely be the same for every boulder problem.
A high-ball boulder problem will require the spotter to take a more active role in reducing the impact of a fall. The stakes are much higher, too – so avoid spotting a high-ball problem until you have sufficient skill and experience.
When spotting a climber on a low-hanging roof, stay almost underneath them and try to grab for their armpits when they fall. This will help them land on their feet, as opposed to falling over onto their back and head.
Understanding what it feels like to fall, and how to do so properly, will also help make you a better spotter.
How To Fall Correctly While Bouldering
Most times, when you fall while bouldering, it’s not intentional. And it can be pretty tough to control how you land – especially if you’re in a weird position on the wall.
Some boulders also just have bad landing spots, with slanted ground and a bunch of big rocks that are hard to cover with crash pads.
Before getting on a problem, try to protect the landing area with crash pads as best you can. Place the pads close together so they do not have large gaps in between them.
Also, clear away any objects in the way of the landing area (i.e. chalk buckets, backpacks, headlamps, etc.). These can easily cause a sprained ankle.
Technique can also help reduce risk of injury:
- Relax and accept the fall (while softly engaging your leg muscles). You want to control your landing, but not jarr your tendons and bones.
- Be like a cat: try to land squarely on both feet, with knees slightly bent. This helps better distribute the force of the impact. Landing on the edge or heels of the feet, or even on just one foot alone, can add undue stress to your body and put you at greater risk of injury.
- Tuck your chin to prevent neck injury.
- Roll with it. Always be ready to pull off a ninja-style tuck-and-roll maneuver. This can also soften the impact on your lower body, especially for more intense falls. Become a roly-poly – curl up on your back, or onto your shoulder
- Place your arms and hands with care. You never want to land on them before your feet. Keep them close to your chest/body. In some instances, like from high falls onto the back or stomach, you may use them to brace yourself upon reaching the ground.
- Mind your position. Climbing nearly upside down, not too high off the ground? If you fall in this scenario, you’ll inevitably land on your back. Take the fall back-first – putting your arms or legs down could cause them to end up in bad positions.
As all rock climbing styles go, bouldering is never 100% safe. There is always a chance you can land wrong, no matter how skillful you are at setting up pads and falling properly.
Make sure you’re ready to accept the risk before going for the send!Learning the Bouldering Grading Scale(s)
If you’re wanting to climb for sport, you gotta know the grades!
Bouldering actually has two types of grading scales: the V Scale and the Font Scale.
Most outdoor climbing areas and gyms in North and South America use the V scale, so don’t sweat learning the Font scale too much unless you plan on spending your climbing time in other locations.
The grade of a boulder problem is solely determined by how difficult the movement is. Other factors, like height, degree of overhang, and danger do not play into the grade.
As with roped climbing, grades are often subjective and vary among climbing destinations and gyms. So, don’t take it personally if you climb V2 in one spot and get shut down on V2 at another.
Helpful Tip: Apps like Mountain Project have helpful grade consensus features, where multiple people vote on what they think the grade is after climbing it, and the app posts that data as an average.The V ScaleComparing The “V” Scale With the “Font Scale”
This scale was born in the famous Texas bouldering area known as Hueco Tanks.
John Sherman, aka “Vermin”, was a renowned climber in Hueco who tried to get a guidebook published for the area in the 1980s. He was forced by his publisher to define each of the boulder problems’ level of difficulty.
Prior to the book, Sherman and his friends determined their own private grading system for the boulder problems. Once the scale they came up with – the “V” scale, for Vermin – was published. it quickly spread throughout the U.S. and other areas.
The scale starts at V0, and goes up in number – V1, V2, V3, and so on – in correlation with increase in difficulty.
Again, these grades are subjective estimations. A boulder problem may be defined in a guidebook as V3, but could be “soft” or “hard” for the grade. Some places will put a “-” or “+” next to the number to denote this.
The V-scale is open-ended, meaning that higher V-ranks can be added as new progressions are made in bouldering. So far, the hardest boulder problem completed to date is (supposedly) V17.The Font Scale
Font is short for Fountainbleu, the bouldering area in France where the Font-Scale originated. It is predominantly used in Europe and Asia, and can be helpful to learn for travel to these areas and for understanding climbing news regarding notable first ascents.
The Font Scale starts at “1” and increases in number with difficulty, like the V Scale.
However, once the scale reaches “6”, it gets a lot more complicated. An “A”, “B”, or “C” can be added at this point to more specifically denote the level of difficulty.
So, a problem can be a 6A, 6B, 6C, or 7A, 7B, or 7C, and so on.
A “+” sign can also be added after the letter to indicate greater difficulty, but not to such an extent as to warrant an entire letter grade increase. For example, an 8B+ is harder than an 8B, but not as hard as an 8C.
If you’re wondering what a Font Scale grade is on the V Scale, check out this conversion chart:Bouldering Terminology
Going to the climbing gym/area for your first time is always an intimidating, awkward process. We’ve all been there…showing up, and not have any idea what you’re doing but trying to play it cool.
It certainly doesn’t help when the people who try to give you advice seem to be using a totally different language.
Rock climbing has a special jargon, no doubt. Although there’s a lot of crossover between the styles, there are some words unique to each.
For the most part, the lingo arises naturally – or, rather, sounds fitting for what it represents. You’ll pick it up faster than you think!
Here’s a list of some of the most popular words used in bouldering:
Beta – The particular movements and holds used to climb a problem. Can vary among climbers. Can also be given from one climber to another, upon request or undesirably (EX: “What’s the beta on the purple V1?”)
Crux – The most challenging part or sequence of movement on a climb.
Handhold/Foothold – These are the indentations and features on a wall where you can grab onto and/or place your feet.
Slab – A type of climb with tiny and minimal holds. Usually requires a lot of technique and balance.
Crimp – A tiny hold, grippable only by one’s finger tips. Also used as a verb, ex. “I crimped my way through the crux”, and an adjective: “that problem is super crimpy!”
Jug – A big hold, almost like a handlebar, which you can grip your entire hand around and behind. Jugs are your best friend in climbing.
Sloper – A prominently rounded surface used as a hold. Can be big or small. To use a sloper, one must curl their palm around it and engage the wrist. Problems with slopers are better done in colder weather for the utmost friction, so as to reduce the chance of slipping off of them.
Sidepull – An angled hold that can only be grabbed sideways (from left to right or from right to left).
Undercling – An angled hold that can only be grabbed from under and pulled upward on. Can be tricky to find on outdoor climbs.
Pocket – A small hole that can be used with less than five fingers. A two-finger pocket can only be grabbed with two fingers, and a mono with only one.
Dyno – A type of climbing move, where you dynamically launch and throw for the next hold using one or both hands.
Heel Hook – A technical climbing move where the heel is placed on a hold to help with stability.
Toe Hook – A technical climbing move where the toe is hooked onto a feature to help with stability.
Send – To complete a boulder problem without falling.
Flash – To send a boulder problem on the first try.
Onsight – To send a boulder problem on the first try without examining the climb, being told the beta, or watching someone else do it.
Project – A problem you are working on and have not yet sent. To “project” a problem is to work out the moves until you can send it.
Top Out – To send a boulder problem and successfully achieve a standing position on top of the boulder itself. Not all boulder problems can be topped out.
Mantle – A method for getting up onto the top of a boulder (i.e. “topping out” a problem) by pulling one’s weight up, then pushing down onto the surface to bring the body up and over.
Sit-Start – A way of starting a boulder problem with one’s bottom on the ground. Sit-starting tends to make the problem more difficult, as it requires more core strength to pull up onto the climb.Tips for Beginner Boulderers
Getting comfortable at the gym and improving your performance takes a lot more than just lingo.
Bouldering is one of those sports that you must invest consistent time and energy in to see results.
The best way to start is by climbing as much as you can. Send a ton of V0s and V1s.
Get a bunch of the easier climbs under your belt so you can familiarize your body and mind with the vertical world and develop a solid foundation of technique.
Then, go after progression like a pyramid. Once you break into a higher grade, try to send as many more of that grade as you can before dedicating too much time on the next- higher grade.
Get on various styles of problems, from vertical to overhanging. Watch videos on technique, and work problems with other climbers at the gym or boulder field.A Brief History of Bouldering
Scrambling around on boulders, in some form or another, has likely existed for centuries.
Some of the first documented “boulderers” dated back to the late 1800’s. In France’s famous Fountainbleu, mountain-climbers would use the boulders for training and exercise before chasing after high peaks.
Pioneers of what we formally consider as bouldering today are still debated, but most fingers point to John Gill.
In the 1950’s, John Gill incorporated his zeal for gymnastics into a significantly more challenging, modern style of climbing on boulders. By 1959, he had put up a V8 and V9 in the Tetons of Wyoming. By 1969, he had successfully published an article in the American Alpine Club Journal titled “The Art of Bouldering”.
It is no wonder that, being a gymnast, Gill carried his chalk out with him to the rocks and thus started the (very useful) tradition of using chalk while climbing.
Gill’s goal was to establish bouldering as a sport in and of itself. Throughout the years since he began this journey, bouldering gained popularity exponentially.
In the 1970’s, climbers in Hueco, Texas were putting up iconic and challenging problems. Hueco is considered to be the true birthplace of modern bouldering in the U.S.
After the first guidebook for bouldering in Hueco was published in the early 1990’s, along with the advent of crash pads, bouldering really took off.
As of today, boulders have sent problems as difficult as V17, and there are more strong climbers dedicated to bouldering than ever before. Sponsored athletes and regular folks alike travel all over the world to experience the wonder of bouldering in different areas. Not to mention,
Bouldering is now in the Olympics!Where Can I Go Bouldering? ~ Awesome Places to Boulder in the U.S.
Holy Boulders, IL
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, AR
Stone Fort, TN
Horse Pens, AL
Rock Town, TN
Rumbling Bald, NC
New River Gorge, WV
The Gunks, NY
Joshua Tree, CA
Red Rock, NV
Joe’s Valley, UT
City of Rocks, ID
Good Boulders to Watch for Inspiration
There’s nothing like a good climbing video to get your palms sweating and your excitement high to pull on some rock! They can also be useful tools to gain insight into technique.
When looking for videos, try searching particular professional climbers that you enjoy watching.
Here are a few good ones to start with:
Ashima Shiriashi was sending V10 by the time she was 8 years old. She is no doubt on the frontline of rock climbers setting new standards and achieving the impossible.
If you’re interested in learning about the world’s most difficult boulder problem established to date, check out Nalle Hukkataival on the Lappnor Project.
Psyched on the awe-inspiring gymnastic style of indoor bouldering? There’s a plethora of Indoor Bouldering Competition videos on YouTube. Here’s a good one to start with.
These are just a few samples of the climbing videos out there. If you find yourself wanting more, don’t worry – there’s a very deep rabbit hole of climbing material on the internet today between YouTube, Vimeo, and other video archives.
Bouldering is a blast. You can do it alone, or with a large group of friends; in the gym, or an endless variety of places outdoors. It gets you fit and strong, and has clear benefits for roped climbing performance.
Bouldering has very low barriers for entry (especially compared to roped climbing), and can provide high returns. As with other forms of climbing, bouldering has a growing community of passionate individuals who love getting out and enjoying the sport together.
Your experience bouldering can thus become many things – a way of developing close friendships, of achieving new levels of personal athleticism, of traveling to beautiful places around the world…or even all three!
Starting a new hobby is always a little intimidating. But this one will be worth it – I promise.
So get out there and get after it!
Melissa is a full time van-living outdoor enthusiast hailed from Florida. After deciding to spend her freshman summer of college living out of a tent to work and climb in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky, her life changed forever. She found her way to El Potrero Chico, Mexico in the winters, where she fell in love with travel and community. Post-graduation, she drove from Florida to Alaska to experience its world-class backpacking, then worked her way back south to explore climbing spots throughout the western U.S.
Meeting countless amazing people, hearing their stories, and learning the histories and struggles of local areas through minimalist travel, climbing, and hiking has inspired her to share these experiences with others. Her passions include improving intersectional access to the outdoors and responsible environmental stewardship.Set your Author Custom HTML Tab Content on your Profile page
Bouldering in Hampi
Bouldering : Whether you are amateur boulderer or a veteran looking for new problems off the beaten routes, Hampi will not fail to satisfy your hunch. You could see at Hampi bouldering enthusiastic folks attempting problems like there is no tomorrow.
For long Hampi has been in the list of those places secretly shared among the old hand boulderers. Not anymore, especially after the 2003 sensational climbing video Pilgrimage featuring Chris Sharma with his friends Katie Brown and Nate Gold.
This movie, shot by the renowned climbing movie maker Josh Lowell generated special interest among the bouldering fans across the world.
Along with some serious bouldering actions, the movie succeeded in capturing the very essence of the holy nature of Hampi. Therefore the name Pilgrimage! A beeline of climbers lugging their crash pad to the boulder-strewn Hampi was the result.
The purists among the boulderers may not to like to see it, but Hampi has a large number of giant boulders that is split apart vertically. As a boulderer sometimes these create campus board like problems for you.
In fact the 16th century artisans who used the granite to build the temples and other monumental structures in Hampi split these boulders. The split face of the boulders is so flat. It appears as if these were sliced like cake with a sharp knife. Far from it they used a novel technique using dry wooden pegs and water to split the boulders to the size. A chain of holes (along the line of split) were drilled on the boulder surface. The dry wooden pegs were then driven into these holes.
Poured water continuously allowing the wooden pegs to get soaked and expanded gradually. That forced the boulder to split open in one go. And only god alone knows how many elephants they used to move these blocks to the work site. Along the top edge of the split boulders you can see the grove like feature of the half split drill hole. Also when you move around the ruins site, you will come across many such series of drill holes on the boulder surface, without any split, probably an abandoned attempt.
Whatever is your grade and ambition, you’ll have more thrilling problems than you can chew.
Avoid the rainy season and the peak summer. November and December are the best Bouldering season in Hampi of the year.
Hampi has limited, or nil local bouldering equipment stores. The closest thing you can get is some crash pads rented out or sometimes offered as complimentary service by those guesthouses at Hampi. If you are particular about your favorite brand of accessories, consider bring it along with you. Do some homework on what to bring and what to not.
A word of caution on bouldeing. It goes without saying that bouldering is a risky sport. If you are a beginner try it only under proper guidance. (See Cautions)
To a question on his climbing movie Pilgrimage Chris Sharma responded saying Hampi is sacred to the Hindus since it is the birthplace of Hanuman, the monkey god. Also Hampi is a place for pilgrimage to the boulderers, since boulders are temples for them. That sums it all. (See responsible bouldering)
Those finally end up in Hampi invariably wonder how on earth such a landscape got created! Well, you have two choices to find a solace: one in geology and the other in mythology. See the origin of Hampi’s boulders.
Resources on bouldering:
There is an interesting website on bouldering in Hampi and other areas of the world by a spanish climber called David (http://www.canpirra.com/HampiWebSite/Hampi_Home.html ) . The downloadable PDF guide on Hampi with a dozen plus bouldering photos is especially useful.http://www.geoquest-verlag.de/?q=en/node/481
Trailer of Chris-Sharma-Video Pilgrimage : http://www.bigupproductions.com/films/pilgrimage/
Famous boulder problem Goan Corner : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmTuiR4HPMU
Travel report: http://geoquest-verlag.de/?q=en/node/132
Social Climbers – Texas Monthly
THE BOULDER WAS NOT PARTICULARLY impressive to me. Hueco Tanks State Historical Park is littered with enormous red rocks, as if some giant had upended a bag of them over the West Texas desert, and this one was shaped like an upside-down pyramid. It sat in the sand at a tilt, and it had a bland, uninteresting surface. Nevertheless, eight climbers were standing around it, transfixed. One of them, Todd Skinner, rubbed some chalk on his hands to keep them dry and began his ascent. Most of the others were from Europe or Canada, but Skinner was from Wyoming, and several onlookers began to chant, “Team USA! Team USA!” Before Skinner made much progress, he lost his grip and fell onto a large foam pillow wrapped in duct tape. Next up was Andy Skiba, who grew up in Wisconsin. He got part way up the rock, felt his heel slip out of a hold, and cursed as he too found himself in midair.
Nobody managed to get very far up the rock, and I moved on to watch people tackle boulders that looked more interesting. Later that evening, however, I learned that the climbers had been attempting an infamous route up the rock known as the New Map of Hell. There are few climbing problems of equal difficulty anywhere in the world, and the very subtlety of the rock face is what makes it so hard. “The holds are like dancing to music,” said Paul Higginson, a British climber. “There’s a set rhythm, and you can only do them a certain way.” Just one person, Swiss climber Fred Nicole, has ever reached the top of the boulder by the path the group had been following. And I had been watching some of the sport’s best practitioners: Skinner wrote a cover story for National Geographic earlier this year after spending sixty days on a rock tower in the Himalayas, and Higginson is one of only two people in the world capable of a move known as a one-armed campus. That’s when he hangs on to a rock face by the fingertips of one hand alone, then quickly hoists himself up in a one-armed pull-up, lets go of the rock for a brief second, and grabs a higher hold in the rock face with the same hand. It takes Herculean strength, and it’s a rare move because he doesn’t use his other hand or his feet at all, risking a fall if he doesn’t catch the second hold. The one-armed campus isn’t required by many climbs, but it does build strength and it’s a great way to impress people.
In recent years Hueco Tanks has been transformed from a sleepy historical park into a world-famous climbing arena. It’s now considered the best place on the globe to climb boulders in the winter, when the desert climate is dry and temperate. The park’s re-nown has risen in tandem with the appeal of bouldering, a sport in which climbers tackle low-lying rocks without any ropes or other equipment. Hueco Tanks has become so popular among the devotees of bouldering that during the winter season, which begins this month and ends next March, the park is engulfed by the climbing subculture. Hundreds of climbers come for long weekends, but the true fanatics are itinerants who stay for months on end, after saving enough money working odd jobs to pass the season scaling rocks. Todd Skinner spends so much time there that he built a house near the park entrance, where he hosts a kind of commune for the most serious of the roving climbers. In the spring they will move on—many will head for rock formations in California or France, the climbing community’s favorite summer destinations—but until then, Hueco Tanks will be their home.
THE PARK IS AN EERIE GEOLOGICAL anomaly that rises out of the desert thirty miles east of El Paso. The rock formation covers 860 acres and at its highest point stands about 350feet tall. Set against a vista of sweeping yellow grasslands and distant red hills, the rocks are an appropriate color for the landscape—shades of reddish brown—but in all other respects, they look out of place. The lumpy, oddly shaped protrusions were created 34 million years ago when molten granite pushed its way up to the earth’s mantle and then solidified as it hit a layer of limestone. Over the millenia, as the limestone washed away, the granite formation was exposed. The rocks that emerged are known as syenite porphyry; they are peculiar because many of them are pocked with large hollows, called huecos in Spanish, and they make the place look like a rusty moonscape.
Climbers are not the only visitors who have felt the strange pull of the hollows. Several Indian tribes settled in the area because of the abundance of water, wildlife, and vegetation—the hollows act as natural tanks, so the rocks typically contain a year-round water supply. The Indians left behind more than three thousand pictographs, some dating back six thousand years. The huecos also attracted gold-rush pilgrims en route to California who needed to water their horses (they often carved their names and the date of their visit into the rock) and ranchers who needed to water their cattle. In the thirties the rocks even caught the eye of real estate developers, who erected dams across some of the park’s canyons in the hope of creating a resort, but their giant lagoon sank into the ground and their get-rich-quick dreams vanished with the water. Today residents of Juárez and El Paso hold barbecues in the park, and gang members visit in search of distraction, leaving their spray-painted tags beside the Indians’ pictographs and the gold-rush travelers’ names. And the stone hollows serve as perfect natural grips and footholds for climbers; in climbing gyms around the world, holds are now known as huecos.
I visited the park on a cloudless weekend early in March, just as last year’s climbing season was drawing to a close. On the county road leading to the entrance, I came across a white stone building with a parking lot full of pup tents. The place was unmarked except for a sign announcing that snow cones were available, but I knew it had to be Pete’s, the cafe and impromptu campground that has become famous among climbers. Every year, about half a dozen people move to Pete’s for the winter, most of whom camp in the gravel parking lot. Inside the cafe, I met Luis Delgado, a wiry seventeen-year-old from Albuquerque who had black hair that was standing up in all directions, perhaps because he hadn’t washed it in a while. Luis had started climbing only five months before, but he immediately quit his job, dropped out of high school, and decided to spend all of his time outdoors. “That’s how climbing is for some people,” he said. “It’s addicting.” He was hanging out with Pete Peacock (not the owner of the establishment), a climber in his twenties from Colorado who was wearing a baseball hat turned backward. To avoid straining their joints and tendons, climbers generally rest at least every other day, and at that moment the two were doing nothing in particular. “It takes a certain amount of mental creativity to stay entertained here,” Pete said. “When you’re not climbing, you’re staring at the desert.”
Everybody at Pete’s was either tanned or sunburned, and most of them looked like they needed to take a shower. Other long-term guests included a Swiss banker on vacation, an out-of-work German, and two British guys who had spent the summer working at Toys ‘R’ Us in England and then left their jobs to climb for the rest of the year. The resident expert at Pete’s was an East German in his twenties named Thomas (he would only give his first name), who has been living at Pete’s off and on for the past five years. I found Thomas outside. He has a determinedly relaxed attitude and sleeps in the parking lot on a threadbare sofa beside a campfire. “I’ve got the supreme spot,” he said. “How many times can you go to sleep watching a fire and the stars and the moon?” Thomas offered to show me around the park the following day, and we agreed to meet at Pete’s around noon. I wasn’t sure if Thomas was the type to keep appointments, but he certainly was affable.
THE NEXT MORNING, IT WAS BREEZY and about 75 degrees—perfect climbing weather. In the parking lot outside the rangers’ building were vehicles with plates from Georgia, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Maine, Rhode Island, and New York, as well as a school bus that had been transformed into a makeshift mobile home. Inside the building, I met park ranger Cynthia Dominguez, a petite woman of Indian descent, and she took me on a tour of some of the park’s pictographs. As we walked along, Dominguez pointed out several images, among them a Kiowa battle scene; an elaborate, faintly drawn rain altar; and a dancing figure with white horns. “He’s a happy little spirit, I think,” she said.
Back in the parking lot, I saw Luis Delgado climbing a lamppost. He gripped it with his hands, put his feet on the pole, and started crawling up it until the pole began to sway back and forth under his weight. When he got down, Luis explained that Thomas had found the weather so tempting that he had blown off our appointment and gone climbing instead. Luis offered to help me look for him, and we set off down one of the park’s trails. Luis had been up until three o’clock the night before and was a little under the weather, but he turned off the trail we were following and sprinted up a steep incline like a little goat. I had a hard time keeping up. Eventually we arrived at a wall known as Kid’s Stuff, a popular place to warm up. I began to see that we weren’t in a hurry to find Thomas. Luis was eager to climb, so he sat down to wrap black tape around his left wrist and the fingers of his left hand. “I screwed up my tendon about a week and a half ago,” he explained. “I don’t like using tape, but I don’t want to screw it up anymore.” Strained tendons and joints are common afflictions among climbers who have taken to bouldering; Hueco Tanks includes such brutal challenges that they sometimes blow a finger tendon. It sounds like a gunshot when it happens. Most climbers rely on crash pads and spotters—friends who help them land safely—to avoid more-serious injuries. Luis, however, took off his shoes and began going up the wall barefoot, without anybody or anything to break his fall.
After Luis finished warming up, he scurried from one rock face to another like a kid on a jungle gym while I stuck to the trails. Often we would arrive at a boulder just as another group converged on it, and we would pause and observe as they tackled the climb first. Watching bouldering is like watching a chess game—it is a slow, almost static sport. A particular path up a boulder is known as a route or problem, and climbers scour the park for the hardest problems they can handle, trying the same one over and over until they have it “wired,” or down cold. By the time Luis and I arrived at Mushroom Boulder, one of the most popular rocks in the park, it was midafternoon and there were lines of people waiting to take their turn. We met up with Pete Peacock, and the three of us watched as other climbers tried a route known as Mushroom Roof. According to a guidebook about Hueco Tanks written by climber John Sherman, there are 28 ways to get to the top of Mushroom Boulder, but Mushroom Roof is one of the hardest: Routes are graded by difficulty depending on the amount of strength they require and the holds involved—whether there are small ledges in the rock to grab or merely thin cracks, for instance. Sherman ranks Mushroom Roof as a V8. (The bouldering rating system goes from V0 to V14, and anybody who can master a V8 is considered a pretty serious climber.)
Mushroom Boulder is a large, top-heavy rock that sits on a slender base; it didn’t look like a mushroom to me, but Pete Peacock said that when he squinted and the light was right, he could see how somebody might think it did. Each climber began by sitting under a big overhang, with the bulk of Mushroom Boulder directly above him. (There were many women climbers in the park, but none in the group I was watching.) Then he would reach up with both hands for a hold known as a rail—it was a long, horizontal crack in the rock face. He would pull himself up to the rock, stick his left foot into a hueco, and prepare to lunge with his left hand to grab a shallow edge with a little lip on it. That early move is one of the hardest in Mushroom Roof because it requires such a long reach across the rock face, and as we watched, several climbers tried the lunge and fell. Finally one made it. He continued, bringing his right foot up beside his right hand and sticking his heel into the rail there—the move is known as a heel hook, and it looked incredibly uncomfortable. Then he reached up to a little edge with his right hand and stretched even farther with his left hand, crossing his arms in the process. Many people fall at this point too, but this climber went on, sticking his left toe into the edge where his left hand had been before, and moving higher up in the process. After several other difficult moves, he was just at the edge of the overhang—about ten feet off the ground—and he was about to “top out,” or go up onto the flat, slablike side of the boulder. Once you make it onto the side of the boulder, it’s an easy climb, as there are plenty of huecos and other holds to use, but getting around the overhang is the hardest part of Mushroom Roof. It’s known as the red-point crux—the biggest hurdle in the climb. The climber inched higher and was trying to move his right foot up to stand on a knoblike protrusion when his strength gave out and he dropped to the ground. It was a good try, and everyone else who had attempted the problem congratulated him.
Luis and Pete got fed up with the long lines at Mushroom Boulder and decided to tackle various other rocks in the park. At one point we stopped to take a break, and I asked Pete if he had gone to college. He said he had finished one semester at Western State College in Colorado. “Just wasn’t too impressed with it,” he said. He wasn’t sure what to do with his life and wasn’t in a hurry to decide. “My mom wonders when I’m going to take part in what you’d call the norm of society. Go to school, get a job, fall into this sense of false security, just because you have a degree and a title. I don’t know, I might end up moving to Latin America. There’s a lot of wisdom down there.”
Late in the afternoon, I left Luis and Pete (we never did find Thomas) and drove to Todd Skinner’s house. At the New Map of Hell, Todd had invited me to join him and some fellow climbers for dinner at his house, just outside the park’s entrance. When I pulled up, there were nine cars in the yard. Todd wasn’t there yet, but sitting around the house were climbers from South Africa, Canada, Switzerland, England, and Texas. They were talking in the large common area on the ground floor of the house, which had several sofas, a dining room table, and an indoor climbing space. They were all full-time climbers, and none of them had permanent addresses. “We follow the seasons,” said Scott Milton, who is originally from Alberta, Canada. “We’re nomadic.”
Most of Todd’s guests were about ten years older than the crowd at Pete’s, and they made their living by endorsing athletic goods, teaching outdoor education, or delivering motivational lectures. Scott Milton, who is lanky and has a mop of dark hair, was the most talkative of the group and its de facto spokesman. Scott explained that the boulders at Hueco Tanks have such steep faces and such tiny crevices that they require extraordinary strength to climb. “You gain so much power here,” he said. The visitors, who regard the park as a national treasure, could not believe how uninterested Texans are in the place. “I was down buying groceries in El Paso, and the woman at the checkout counter said, ‘Oh, are you here climbing?’” recounted Paul Higginson, the British climber. “I said, ‘Yeah, I’m here for a month.’ And she said, ‘Oh, I didn’t think it was that special.’”
After Todd came in, we all sat down to a dinner of tuna casserole and salad. The conversation revolved entirely around climbing. Todd asked Sandra Studer, a Swiss climber, if it was true that she had managed to “flash” a rock—climb it cold, without much study or any trial runs. She had. An entire lexicon has grown up around the sport, and over the course of the meal, I learned that “dirt me” means you want help getting down from a tricky spot and that asking for “beta” means you want some information about the next move to make. (“Beta” is short for “Betamax”—ideally, the information is so clear that it’s like watching a video of the climb.)
THE FOLLOWING DAY, I DROVE OVER TO THE PARK with Sandra; Amy Whisler, who is from Wyoming; Kirk Billings, who is from Midland; John and Carol Gogas, who are also from Midland; and Dale Childers, who is from Odessa. We hiked over to an easy rock, where the group warmed up. Next they attempted nearby problems, including one called Assault of the Killer Bimbos. Around noon, everybody pulled Power Bars out of their backpacks for lunch and then we set off on a hike through Comanche Canyon—so-named for a Comanche battle scene of ghostly white figures found on the wall of a cave in the area.
“Are we going to the secret place?” John asked.
“Yeah,” Kirk said.
I asked why it was a secret.
“I’d rather nobody knew about it, so I can get it cleaned up and done before anybody else finds it,” Kirk replied. The week before, he had found a route that had never been climbed before—though hundreds of the park’s well-known problems have been catalogued in Sherman’s guidebook, visitors still find dozens of new routes every year. “The first person to do a route is always connected to it,” Scott Milton had explained the night before. “The first person owns it, in a weird way.” At the far end of the canyon we started climbing a set of deep huecos set into the rock like a ladder. About five hundred feet up, we came to an odd formation: Underneath a giant boulder was a vast cave with a ceiling from two to five feet high. The boulder rested on top of a flat granite table, but it was shaped like an overturned bowl, and you could walk or crawl all the way underneath it. The underside of the boulder was honeycombed with huecos, making it a perfect place to practice moves known as body-tension holds, in which a climber braces himself into position by pushing in opposing directions with his feet and hands. “God, that’s a real butt-dragger,” John said when he saw the confined space.
“I think I’m going to call it Near Birth Experience,” said Kirk.
We all crawled into the hollow under the giant boulder. It was cool and shady under there, offering welcome relief from the hot sun. As Kirk started brushing dirt off the ceiling, the others fanned out to explore. Eventually Paul Higginson appeared with two other British climbers. One of Paul’s friends peered at Kirk, who was clinging to the underside of the boulder like a spider. “It could get a bit claustrophobic in there,” he muttered. There was a thud as Kirk fell off the ceiling. He kicked at the honeycombs above him, then slid back to begin the problem again. Another thud. “Oh, f—,” he said this time. “I keep whacking my elbow.”
After several hours, Kirk showed the route to John. “Here,” Kirk said, coaching John as he took his turn clinging to the ceiling. “Now, heel, toe. Reach with your left hand. You want your right hand in that undercling, so you can pull yourself over. Reach a little farther—”
“Holy cow!” yelped John.
“Yeah, it’s really complicated,” said Kirk.
“God, this is brutal,” John said admiringly while he hung upside down. He thought the problem Kirk had found would prove to be one of the park’s more challenging climbs. “Very good, Kirk.”90,000 15 most famous boulders in Belarus
There are many boulders of different shapes and sizes in Belarus. Some of them are used in construction, some are part of an architectural ensemble, some are objects of worship, and there are also those that are recognized as natural monuments and are strictly protected.
They came to the country thanks to glaciers that came several times from Scandinavia many thousands of years ago.Glaciers either melted, then attacked again, but about 14 thousand years ago, the last of them left the Belarusian lands.
Especially large stones, which they left as a keepsake, soon became iconic. Some of them have survived in their original places without human intervention. The rest were moved – either during the development of farmland, or transported closer to temples and cemeteries, or transported to museums. In addition, a significant part of the boulders were branded – mainly with Christian symbols, which in turn often overlapped earlier pagan symbols.
Nevertheless, large boulders of Belarus attract local historians, geologists, petrographers and simply curious people who want to see and capture these majestic objects dating back many thousands of years.
Here we propose to get acquainted with the most famous Belarusian stones that have become part of the national culture. Numerous legends and superstitions inevitably formed around them, which we will also briefly mention.
So, we present 15 of the most famous stones of Belarus, each of which is a natural monument of republican significance.
The glacial boulder “Stone of Love” is located 2 kilometers east of the village of Volovshchina in a forest on a moraine ridge (53.953222, 27.265722). The size of the visible part of the boulder is 4.6 × 3.4 × 1.1 meters and weighs about 22 tons. Experts believe that this is only 1/5 of the stone and make the assumption that its total volume reaches 53 cubic meters. meters, and weight – not less than 140 tons. This boulder was brought by the penultimate glacier about 150 thous.years ago from the Baltic Shield in Scandinavia.
This natural landmark of Belarus is so poetically named for a reason. In ancient times, this boulder had a cult significance, which over time and despite the religious beliefs among the people was firmly entrenched. It is believed that the “Stone of Love” helps to reunite with your soul mate. To do this, you need to touch the stone with good thoughts, wish it well and ask for the secret. And then hope that the boulder heard and heeded the request.
Borisov stone in Polotsk
The Borisov stone near the St. Sophia Cathedral in Polotsk (55.485761, 28.758096) is the most famous of the four Borisov stones that have survived to this day (only three remained in Belarus). According to some reports, before the adoption of Christianity, the locals worshiped these giants. Later, in order to eradicate paganism, the Polotsk prince Boris Vseslavich at the end of the 12th century ordered crosses and religious texts be stamped on them.
The Borisov stone in Polotsk is not only a natural monument, but also an epigraphy. Initially, it lay in the Western Dvina River near the village of Podkasteltsy, Polotsk region, but in 1981 it was pulled out and installed in the place where it is today. A six-pointed cross and the inscriptions “HS NIKA” and “Lord, help your slave Boris” are carved on the boulder. Its size is 3.5 × 2.6 × 2.25 meters.
This ancient landmark of Polotsk attracts tourists just like the nearby cathedral.People note that there is a special warmth near this stone and that it is very pleasant to stand next to it. The protective inscriptions and the cross on it are smoothed from the touch of thousands of hands that touched them. They say that if you gently touch the Borisov stone and mentally say a wish, then it will certainly come true.
The Vorotishin Cross boulder is also referred to as the Borisov stones. It is located on the picturesque bank of the Viliya river near the village.Kameno Vileika region (54.582156, 27.470698) and is a granite block in the form of a bell 3 meters high. On its surface in the XII century, a six-pointed Orthodox cross was carved, surrounded on top and on the sides by the inscription “ICXC NIKA” (“Jesus Christ is victorious”). This is the only one of all the Borisov stones that remained in their original place.
Borisov stone in Druja
About the existence of the Borisov stone in the village of Druya, Vitebsk region (55.791486, 27.448868) became known to researchers at the end of the nineteenth century. This stone was raised from the bottom of the Druyka River and first installed on the bank near the village. But then, at the request of local residents, it was moved to the central square of the village. On the block there is an embossed cross and the inscription “Lord, help your slave Boris.”
In the forest near the village of Kryzhovka, Minsk region, there is one of the pagan sanctuaries, where in ancient times they worshiped the god of the animal world, fertility, prosperity, luck and creative inspiration – Veles.But even now the temple continues to operate. So, in mid-February, admirers of ancient traditions come to the Veles stone (or “Hair”) to celebrate “Valosse” – the pagan analogue of Maslenitsa. As in the old days, coins, pancakes, kvass, honey and other food products are left on the altar stone as offerings. At the same time, people here pray for healing from ailments, for adding to the family and prosperity.
The majestic boulder “Knyaz-Kamen” arrived from the south of Finland to the territory of Belarus through the efforts of the glacier 120-200 thousand years ago.It is located in the village of Berezovshchina, Minsk region (54.524980, 28.210490). Several legends are associated with this representative natural monument. One of them says that during the Northern War, before the next battle, one of the Swedish commanders disrespectfully spoke about him, they say, you are lying here on the way. And after 2 days the offender was found dead right at the foot of the “Prince-stone”. According to the second legend, the Swedish prince turned into a stone block for desecrating the church.
Nearby, also in the village.Beryozovshchina Borisov district, there are two boulders, fused together. Their appearance here is also due to global glaciation 120-200 thousand years ago. This natural monument is remarkable not only from a geological, but also from a biological point of view. 21 species of lichens grow on the surface of boulders called “Bulls”, and 4 of them are rare pitchforks. The size of the northern boulder is 3.0 × 1.8 meters, the southern one is 2.5 × 1.4 meters, the total height is 2.1 meters, and the stones weigh about 50 tons.
Their name is associated with a legend, according to which a peasant from the village of Mstizh and his bulls were turned into stones as punishment for working in the field on Easter. Since then, people on that field were afraid to sow anything, and the place was overgrown with forest.
Big stone Pugachevsky
The boulder “Big stone Pugachevsky” lies 300 meters north of the village of Bolshiye Pugachi, Shchuchin district, Grodno region (53.803309.24.608078). According to the researchers, a glacier from southern Finland brought it to the lands of the country about 200 thousand years ago. The size of this natural monument of republican significance is 8 × 7 × 1.3 meters, and its weight is over 130 tons. The Pugachevsky stone is called the 3rd largest boulder in Belarus.
The second largest among the Belarusian boulders is the Devil’s Stone, located near the village.Voronino Senno district (54.658423, 29.872174). The boulder in the form of a parallelepiped, inclined to the south, measures 10.2 × 6.0 × 2.05 meters above the ground, and its approximate weight is about 340 tons. It ended up in the Vitebsk region thanks to the Poozero glaciation, which brought it from the south-west of Finland 20-17 thousand years ago.
Local residents attribute mystical properties to the stone. According to legend, devils lived in a swamp near the village, who liked to make fun of drunken men.Allegedly, they led not too sober peasants to the swamp to the stone, and those in its place seemed to be a home stove. So they undressed and laid on the stone, and when they got up in the morning, they were extremely bewildered. Therefore, the stone was nicknamed “Devilish”.
But there is another version that gave birth to the second name of the boulder – Kravets. According to legend, one skilled tailor, proud of his skill, continued his paid work even on Easter, which is why he was punished and turned to stone.
In the Shumilinsky region, 750 meters from the village of Gorki (55.192222, 29.488611), there is a natural landmark – the largest stone in Belarus. They call him that – Big, but in some sources you can find the names Great or Devil. The dimensions of the iron-shaped stone are 11.0 × 5.6 × 2.8 meters. There is an assumption that its underground part is at least three meters deep, and the giant weighs 800 tons.There is a legend according to which anyone who even accidentally sees the Great Stone will certainly get lost, and each time will return to it.
In Minsk (53.931389, 27.689722) there is even a small, but one of the most famous boulders – “Ded”. Another name is “Old Man”. It was once one of the main elements of the ancient pagan temple, from which only he remained. Until 1888, a huge sacred oak Volat grew on the temple, a sacrificial fire burned, and its keeper Sevastey lived next to it.Before celebrating the 900th anniversary of the baptism of Rus, the tsarist authorities tried to stop the pagan services. The sacred fire was extinguished, the prophetic oak Volat was cut down, and the guardian was driven away.
Today the boulder “Ded” is an exhibit at the Museum of Boulders in Minsk. Its dimensions are 1.2 × 0.6 meters. The stone lies in isolation from the rest of the museum exhibits, which is atypical. To this day, offerings are made to the “elder” in the form of sweets and coins, which can be regularly observed at its foot.
The largest boulder in the Brest region – “Filaretov stone” – lies 1 km west of the village.Karchevo, Baranovichi region (53.362865, 26.11578). This natural landmark entered the territory of Belarus through a glacier from the Scandinavian Peninsula. The size of the boulder is 4.1 × 1.9 × 3.0 meters, but until now it has been partially preserved. During the First World War, when the line of the Russian-German front passed east of the village of Karchevo, they tried to blow it up to get rubble for filling field roads.
This stone became widely known in Belarus due to the fact that in the 20s of the 18th century it served as a gathering place for members of the secret society of filarets, created by students of Vilnius University for mutual assistance and self-improvement.It included Adam Mitskevich, Jozef Yezhovsky, Jan Chechot, Frantisek Malevsky, Tomasz Zan and Ignatiy Domeyko. By the way, the mention of the stone can be found in the poem by Adam Mickiewicz “Pan Tadeusz”.
Big stone Lithuanian
The village of Litovka near Novogrudok attracts both Belarusian historians and those who are intrigued by the unknown. There is a stone here, on the surface of which there are strange indentations, one of which resembles a footprint of some supernatural creature.Local residents are both proud of the natural landmark and at the same time afraid. Perhaps this is the reason that they tried to destroy the boulder (traces of such attempts are visible even now).
The large Lithuanian stone, according to eyewitnesses, at the present time is only a third of the previous size. Now the size of the granite block is 2.7 × 2.4 × 1.6 meters. The rest of the boulder was savagely blown up and used in construction work.
Senezhitsky holy stone
In d.Senezhichi, Novogrudok district (53.54607, 25.94816) there is a stone that has long been worshiped by peasants. And today, local residents gather around it for big holidays. On its surface there are two depressions, about the nature of the appearance of which there is one legend from generation to generation.
The allegedly childless gentleman wanted to take the baby away from his servants. The maid hid the newborn, but the pan was told where to find him. Then the maid grabbed the child and rushed to run, the pan – after her.However, on the way, she stumbled over a large boulder and fell, and then she could only crawl on her knees. Having reached the mountain, the woman began to cry, and where her tears fell, a spring appeared. To save the fugitive from her pursuer, the earth parted. The woman disappeared, and that place is now called the Holy Moat.
Over time, the people called the woman the Mother of God, and the pan – the devil. On Pokrova, October 14, people come to the stone to pray and ask for boons. Then they put some gift like cloth, eggs, coins or sweets on the “girl’s trail”, and spit on the “damn” trail.By the way, even during periods of hunger, people did not take money from the stone; those who dared went mad later.
There is also an amazing natural attraction in the village of Gorka, Dyatlovsky district. There are two stones here, forming a kind of arch. They say that once a rider could pass through it. Now, due to the precipitation of stones, only a person of average build can squeeze through a kind of arch.
There is a sign that it is enough to go through it three times to be cured of all ailments. Moreover, they say that the first to pay attention to the miraculous powers of the boulders was the Russian Emperor Peter I, who visited these places during the Northern War.
In total, there are 75 stones in Belarus recognized as natural monuments of republican significance. And with each of them, however, as well as with the rest of the more or less large boulders, some kind of belief is associated.Explore Belarus with us, we still have many unusual stories and amazing Belarusian sights in stock that you will probably want to know about!
Zombies and Saints – Traveler’s School
This spring, a gang of blogging photographers have been operating in the area, transforming ordinary abandoned buildings into atmospheric photo locations. So at one dacha a spectacular web , appeared, and another was captured by ominous zombies.
It would seem that clothes have just been added.But how the perception has changed!
Against the background of the pandemic it was especially creepy …
Nightmare look: green complexion.
The zombie is hungry, he wants meat.
Your neighbor is not breathing, he is also a beast now.
And everything from the fact that he forgot to close the door …
© Stonelion Band
#stayathome #stay at home # sidim house # best house
The kids live in the former dacha I.M. Maksimov (an architectural monument of federal significance), which until 2009 housed a neuropsychiatric orphanage. The building is not used, but it is guarded – there is an attendant inside.
But from the second house, which I want to talk about, there is only a porch left.
More precisely, there were several buildings: a shelter, a girls’ boarding school, a summer cottage for St. Petersburg students,
network they have not been found yet].
What kind of buildings are these? The fact is that in 1909, on the shores of the Gulf of Finland (not far from the modern gardening “Primorye”) by Ursula Ledukhovskoy, canonized by the Roman Catholic Church,
a large Catholic center Merentiakhti (MEREN TÄHTI) was equipped, which in Finnish means Starfish or Star of the Sea.
The name came up for a reason. Every Catholic knows that the hymn “Ave Maris Stella” (“Hail, Star of the Sea”) is not talking about the North Star, but about the Virgin Mary.That is why on July 6, 1910, the ursulinkas installed the figure of the Mother of God on the shore.
Photo from the site: www.polskipetersburg.pl/hasla/ledochowska-halka-ledochowska-julia-maria-imie-zakonne-urszula
In 1914, the Austrian subject U. Ledukhovskaya was expelled from the Russian Empire. In 1926, the territory was sold to a private person, the wooden buildings were dismantled and transported to central Finland, the statue was transferred to the chapel in Terioki (Zelenogorsk).
On July 14, 2011, the sculpture was restored to its original location [60 ° 10’44”N 29 ° 4’25”E].
But the monument to the exploits of the sapper battalion will hardly ever be revived … Neither the first nor the second …
schools, which during the entire camp time, together with the sappers, participated in all practical sapper and mine work. In the same place, in a field near the road, on a huge, wild stone, flaunts a colossal copper eagle with outstretched wings, the work of Professor Baron Klodt.Under the eagle, on a stone, there is a copper plaque with the inscription: “to the exploits of the life-guard sapper battalion”. The eagle was erected by order of the Emperor Nicholas I, in 1852 ”.
A. Gayrot. Description of Peterhof. St. Petersburg, 1868 (cited from: photoprogulki.narod.ru/lugovoy6.htm)
In 1899, the eagle was transferred to St. Petersburg and installed in front of the battalion church of Kosma and Damian on Kirochnaya street.
This work of the renowned sculptor has not survived – it was probably destroyed during the construction of school buildings on the site of the church.
But the boulder, on which the eagle “nested” initially, still lies near the Saperny pond near the village of Sashino [59 ° 51’13 “N 29 ° 52’53” E].
With this stone at least everything is clear. But the second one raises more questions than answers. Meet the monument to FEBRUARY.
Located in Smolyachkovo. No reliable information about the origin was found. There are two versions on the Internet:
NINA GRIGORIEVA, ethnographer: “What caring hand put this huge boulder, hewn it and wrote“ February ”in Russian, and then nothing? There was only one February – February 1918.This is February, when there was the most brutal White Finnish civil war in Finnish history, when the population of this small village called Lautaranta was divided into Red and White Finns. Here was the burial place of one of the Red Finns. Nothing else could have been here except the tragedy of the White Finnish civil war in February 18 “[https://topspb.tv/programs/releases/95572/].
VALENTINA NESTEROVA: “My husband Alexander Nesterov was in the pioneer camp“ Swallow ”from 1960-1968.This is the story he knows about the stone with the inscription “February”. In February 1917, the bourgeois revolution took place in Russia, the center of which was Petrograd. Finland was part of the Russian Empire. The Finns received this revolution with great enthusiasm. It was decided to erect an obelisk in honor of this. Found a suitable stone in the Gulf of Finland. Work began on the processing of stone and inscriptions on it, followed by transportation to Zelenogorsk (Terioki). During the stone processing period, the inscription “February… “and smaller. But here the stone cracked, and subsequent evaluation showed that it would fall apart during transportation. The work was stopped, the main inscription was not completed. Then the October Revolution took place, led by V.I. Lenin, which overshadowed the February one. In 1922, Lenin fulfilled Finland’s request to secede from Russia and become a sovereign country [Finland officially became independent in December 1917]. The stone was forgotten. After the Great Patriotic War of 1941-1945, the border of the USSR was transferred from Beloostrov to Vyborg.In 1957, the territory of the pioneer camp “Swallow” appeared. The stone was nearby, 50 meters from the camp. Its finding was overgrown with numerous pioneer legends. At the beginning of the 21st century, the territory of Leningrad (St. Petersburg) expanded to the village of Smolyachkovo inclusive. The stone was unrolled, and the word “February …” was added. The area around was ennobled ”[https://vk.com/topic-78239_64241?offset=20].
Both are far from perfect, which is emphasized by caring critics. Well, the more interesting it will be for interested researchers to work (if such, of course, appear).
Kirov | Zhukovlyansky boulders from the Kirov region entered the rating of places of power in Russia
Travel and travel service Tutu.ru has compiled a guide to places where people make wishes. The compilers selected more than 60 places of power in different regions of the country. These include the Zhukovlyansky boulders, which are located on the territory of the Kotelnichsky district of the Kirov region.
According to the Tourist Information Center of the Kirov Region, more than 1.3 thousand stones were discovered in the 1980s, when the construction of a quarry began near the village of Zhukovlyany.Presumably, the boulders appeared more than 250 million years ago.
Also in the Tourist Information Center of the Kirov region they shared a legend about boulders. It is based on the fact that some stones feel warm, while others feel cold. This is how the concept appeared that everyone can find their own stone in terms of energy, touch it and see the future. Also, “your” stone helps to fulfill desires and find out your own purpose in life.Photo: Elena Chudinovskikh
Author: Natalia Zaitseva
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18:01 08.06.2021 Agency of Information Messages – Abakan
A new tourist guide to Gatchina has been released
The history of Gatchina will become more accessible and interesting. The Tourist Information Center of Gatchina has published new guidebooks, with the help of which everyone can independently visit all the cultural sites of the city.
12:57 08.06.2021 Gatchina News Service – Gatchina
The holy stone of the Orenburg region was included in the list of places of power in Russia
A guide to places of power in Russia, or rather to places where people come specially to make a wish, compiled a travel service.
14:45 08.06.2021 OrenGrad.Ru – Orenburg
The source of the Volga entered the encyclopedia of places in Russia where wishes are made
Tutu travel and travel service.ru has compiled a guide to places of power in Russia – points on the map where people make wishes.
12:40 08.06.2021 TIA – Tver
The Golden Gate Rock, the Hot Stone, the Jug of Happiness and the Chersonesus Bell are included in the encyclopedia of places in Russia where wishes are made
Travel and travel service Tutu.ru has compiled a guide to places of power in Russia (https: // story.tutu.ru/karti-zhelaniy-big/) – points on the map where people make wishes.
12:40 08.06.2021 New Crimea – Simferopol
Seidozero entered the encyclopedia of places for making wishes
Seydozero in the Murmansk region was included in the encyclopedia of places in Russia where wishes are made.
13:20 08.06.2021 IA Nord-News.Ru – Murmansk
Golden Gate entered the top Russian places where wishes are made
Photo by Natalia Kuzovkina In total, more than 60 such objects are marked on the map of Russia. Travel and travel service Tutu.ru has compiled a guide to places of power in Russia – points on the map where people make wishes.
12:19 08.06.2021 Progorod33.Ru – Vladimir
Krasnoyarsk Pillars and “Tsar-fish” will help fulfill desires
Travel and travel service Tutu.ru has compiled a guide to places on the map of Russia where people make wishes.
16:14 08.06.2021 Our Krasnoyarsk Territory – Krasnoyarsk
An encyclopedia of places where wishes are made in Russia
Tutu travel and travel service.ru has compiled a guide to places of power in Russia – points on the map where people make wishes.
11:50 08.06.2021 RuInformer.Com – Sevastopol
Saratov entered the top 10 most popular tourist destinations from Moscow
This is reported by the travel and travel service Tutu.ru Photo: 4vsar.ru
Saratov ranked 10th in the ranking of the most popular tourist destinations from Moscow.
22:20 07.06.2021 Fourth Power – Saratov
Wooden churches of Russia in the Moscow region
Wooden buildings are perhaps the most ephemeral, outgoing nature. They are much more fragile and short-lived than a stone, but they have more soul, comfort, kind simplicity. The wood keeps the warmth of the hands applied to it, the rough surfaces are smoothed out from the touch and absorb the smell of incense. In the Moscow region, you can touch the wooden churches, which are more than 150 years old.Where to do this, the Guide will tell you.
Churches in the village of Shuvoe and the village of Ryzhevo, Yegoryevsky district
In the 18th-19th centuries, Shuvoye was known as the center of Old Believer culture, especially book writing. The Old Believer Trinity Church in the village of Shuvoe was erected at the beginning of the 20th century according to the project of the architect N.G. Martyanov (according to some sources, it was converted from the Old Believer prayer house of the 1860s).In 1920, a covered porch was added to the temple. The church has never been closed; in 1990, it was overhauled.
A wooden church with vertical planking, in the traditional type of one-domed Old Believer churches. Exterior and interior decoration is extremely stingy. The eastern wall of the temple is occupied by an iconostasis in four tiers.
The wooden Vvedenskaya church in the village of Ryzhevo is an object of cultural heritage of regional importance. The history of this temple begins in 1872, with the first Moscow Polytechnic Exhibition, which demonstrated not only technical innovations, but also a manor house, a village school, a hospital and a life-size wooden village church.Churches in Shuvoy and Ryzhevo
The project was carried out by the senior architect of the palace department Nikolai Alexandrovich Shokhin. According to his idea, the graceful Russian-style temple could be disassembled, transported over various distances, and then easily assembled.
I liked the idea, and after the exhibition the temple was bought by gentlemen Golofteev and Rakhmanin for their village of Lublin near Moscow. In 1927, by decision of the Moscow City Executive Committee, the Peter and Paul Church was transferred to the village of Ryzhevo, Yegoryevsky district, to be erected on the site of a church that had been burnt down there.In the new place, the church was consecrated identically to its predecessor, in honor of the Entry into the Temple of the Most Holy Theotokos. The temple is now closed. Services are not held there.
Chapel in Taksin, Klin District
In 1894, the Ilyinsky Chapel was built at the expense of the inhabitants of the village of Taksino. It is very simple – a square log house, chopped into a paw under a hipped roof, and an open porch with a canopy on pillars. The walls on the southern and northern sides are sheathed with boards. The pitched hemmed ceiling is made up of the “sky”.In the 1970s, a brick plinth was installed under the frame. The chapel, like the parish church, was not closed in the 20th century.Chapel in Taksin
Kazan Church in Sushkovo, Lukhovitsy
The Church of the Kazan Icon of the Most Holy Theotokos was built in the former village of Sushkovo (now part of the city) by the local landowner I.V. Svechin in 1754. This is a baroque church of the “octagon on a quadruple” type, cut into a paw and covered with boards (until the second half of the 19th century there was no covering).The building, standing on a low white-stone plinth, has retained its original appearance: the main volume, a small Nikolsky side-chapel, a one-story refectory and an octahedral bell tower crowned with a spire on a square base. According to the testimony of art historians, in terms of composition, this temple is typical for the beginning of the 18th century, even for the end of the 17th century. They also call it strange that the landowner Svechin built the temple not in stone, but in wood (but on a stone foundation).
According to legend, the students of Repin’s school took part in the painting of the church in the 19th century, it is no coincidence that one of the plot paintings is an exact copy of Repin’s painting “The Resurrection of Jairus’s Daughter”.Kazan Church in Sushkov
The history of the temple has its own legends. One of them says that it was originally built in a different place, on the banks of the Vobli River (about two to three kilometers from its current location). But to the daughter (in another interpretation – the wife) of the landowner, the Mother of God appeared in a dream and indicated the place where “Her house” should be. The temple was dismantled and moved to its current location. The legend has historical roots. On the bank of the Voblya there really was a wooden church, which by the middle of the 18th century fell into disrepair and was abolished and dismantled in 1760.
Nikolskaya Church in Fedoskin, Mytishchi
The first mention of a church in the name of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker in the village of Fedoskino (Fedosino) dates back to the 16th century. It was built by the Velyaminovs patrons. At the beginning of the 17th century, St. Nicholas Church became desolate, dilapidated and stood without service. In 1680, in its place, a new single-altar wooden church was erected on a stone foundation with a bell tower. During a fire in 1875, the old wooden St. Nicholas Church burned down.In the same year, they began to build a new church at the expense of the honorary citizen of the merchant P.A. Lukutin, the owner of a craft factory for the production of lacquer miniatures in Fedoskino, and the wife of State Councilor M.N. Mansurova. In 1877, wooden, on a stone foundation, plastered from the inside, St. Nicholas Church was consecrated.
In 1928, the Soviet government took away the church building from the church, from 1936 to 1960 it housed a granary, and then for 16 years it was in complete ruin, only the walls on the foundation survived.From 1976 to 1992, the temple was listed on the balance sheet of the Fedoskino factory of lacquer miniature and painting. After restoration, an exhibition hall of paintings and caskets was located in its premises. At present, the Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker in the village of Fedoskino is an architectural monument and a functioning temple where divine services are held.St. Nicholas Church in Fedoskino
Particles of the relics of St. Nicholas and St. Philaret, two lists from the glorified miraculous icons of the Mother of God – “The Tsaritsa” and “Gerontissa” are kept in the St. Nicholas Church.
Ascension Church, Bogorodsky District
Once there was a wooden church in the name of the Intercession of the Most Holy Theotokos in the village of Voskresenskoye, but it burned down on October 22, 1705. In the same year, a blessing was received for the construction of a new church, which stood until the middle of the 19th century and was intended to be demolished after a new stone church was built in the village. However, in 1846, the Bogorodsk bourgeoisie Alexander Fedorovich Shashenkov undertook to repair the temple.In 1865, the church was re-consecrated into Voznesenskaya, and it became a cemetery. In 1858, a stone fence was erected around it. This is how it has come down to our time.
The temple was once very beautiful. Chopped into a block, it consisted of a cage-four, a refectory with a gallery, which ended in the west with a beautiful porch with a locker. A faceted altar adjoined the east.Ascension Church
The temple stood on a high basement. In its interior there was the so-called sky – a picturesque image of the Savior in the square of the vault.The shops, icon cases, kliros were carved.
In Soviet times, the temple was closed and gradually fell into decay. There is no access inside now. Nevertheless, this is a unique monument of Peter the Great’s wooden architecture, in need of restoration.
Church of the Presentation of the Lord, Pushkin District
In 1874, with the blessing of the Metropolitan of Moscow Innokenty, a wooden church of the Bogolyubskaya Icon of the Mother of God was built near the Pushkino railway station.In winter it was cold in it, and the pilgrims asked: “At a sufficient distance from the existing on the same church land to build a new small warm wooden church in honor and glory of the Most Holy and Life-giving Spirit of God.” In 1875, to their joy, a warm wooden church in the name of the Holy Spirit was opened.Church of the Presentation of the Lord
It is now known as the Church of the Presentation of the Lord in Novaya Derevnya. The temple was moved here in 1922, as evidenced by a commemorative plaque on the facade.In 1981, an altar table was consecrated here in the name of the Holy Spirit.
Church of the Presentation of the Lord in Sands, Shakhovskaya
The village of Peski, which was then called the village of Vysotsky, was first mentioned in 1506 in the spiritual charter of the Volotsk prince Fyodor Borisovich. In 1707, a church was built here, and the village became the village of High on the Sands. On June 25, 1758, the wooden church burned down from a thunderstorm. The icons, together with the iconostasis, were saved, and a year later the church was also rebuilt.The second time it burned down on March 29, 1857: to the ground and again during a thunderstorm. Instead, in the same year, a small temple was built in the name of the prophet Elijah, the heavenly patron of thunder and lightning.
And in 1858, parishioners bought in the neighboring village of Sereda (Stratilatskoe) at their own expense a two-altar wooden church in the Name of the Life-Giving Trinity, built in 1774-1776, transported to Peski and added to the newly built refectory. This temple no longer burned, it is still in operation.Church of the Presentation of the Lord in the Sands
The iconostasis of the early XX century and paintings on biblical subjects, icons of the 17th century from the Moscow Trinity Church of the same faith, a wooden sculpture of the Nile Stolbensky of the late 18th-early 19th centuries – local shrines.
St. Nicholas Church in the village of Malyshevo, Bronnitsy
A church in the village of Malyshevo near the Bronnitsy station was built in 1912. The metric book testifies: the baptism was first performed on June 8, and the wedding and funeral service – on July 15. The 1916 pantry statement states that “the church is a wooden building, on a column foundation, with a bell tower at it, there is also one throne in the name of St. Nicholas, there is enough utensils.” Later, two thrones were also set up in the temple in the name of the Archangel Michael and in honor of the holy unmercenaries and miracle workers Cosma and Domian.St. Nicholas Church in the village of Malyshevo
In 1931, John Aleshkovsky became the rector of the St. Nicholas Church. In 1938 he was arrested, charged with counter-revolutionary agitation and shot at the Butovo training ground. In 2000, John Aleshkovsky was canonized as a holy martyr, now there is an icon of him in the Malyshev Church.
From 1933 to mid-1940 there were no priests in Malyshevo, but the church received parishioners. By 1980, it was in disrepair and the authorities intended to close it.Father Anatoly, the then abbot, managed to repair and save the temple. The cracked roof and heating were replaced, and the wall paintings were restored.
Today, there is a Sunday school and a library at the church, young parishioners sing in the choir, and at the services you can see those who have been attending this church for more than a decade, their grandchildren and even great-grandchildren.
Temple of the Great Martyr and Victorious George, Ivanteevka
In the first half of the 16th century, in the village of Novoselki Bokhova stana, on the banks of the Pesochna river, the first wooden church dedicated to the passion-bearer George appeared.In 1674 the brothers Ivan and Cyprian Birdyukin-Zaitsev built a new church on this place, and the village became the village of Georgievsky. The then St. George Church had a modest size; He did not have a bell tower – two bells were suspended from a birch tree, and the third, small, “without a tongue,” lay in the church.Temple of the Great Martyr and Victorious George
In 1729 the estate in Novoselki passed to the widow of F.P. Sheremeteva Irina Fedorovna, who built a new church here to replace the dilapidated one.The wooden domed temple with one altar had a bell tower and was covered with iron.
Towards the end of the 19th century, the temple of Princess Sheremeteva began to need major repairs. The reconstruction of the St. George Church started in 1886-1887 with donations from a wealthy Shchelkovo merchant. It is this temple in the pseudo-Russian style that has survived to our time. To this day, crosses from the late 17th century have survived on its dome, and figured lattices of the late 18th century are on the windows.
During the Soviet era, the church was not only opened, but also expanded.For the unauthorized construction of an extension on the north side in 1959, Archpriest Vasily Reshetin suffered from the authorities and lost his parish. The father left beautifully. Having learned that Trushin, the commissioner for church affairs, was going to Ivanteevka, he decided to stage a popular riot, persuading the girls from the choir to pretend to beat him when he went to dismantle the annex. The ignorant parishioners thought that the priest was actually attacked, and a massive brawl broke out. After the upheaval of the people, there was no talk of liquidating the extension.
Chapel of Elijah the Prophet in Beketovo, Stupino
A small wooden chapel with a hipped roof was cut down in the 19th century. Low cube blockhouse with a porch. In the Moscow region, it is the only one of this kind; it is an extremely rare example of a wooden overhead chapel for the region. In 2016, it was renovated with the replacement of individual logs. The status is valid.Chapel of Elijah the Prophet in Beketovo
The main shrines of the St. George Church are the miraculous image of the Chernigov Icon of the Mother of God and an icon with a piece of the relics of St. George.
Church of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, Dzerzhinsky
In the Nikolo-Ugreshsky monastery there is an old wooden church built in 1860, which is located on the bank of the pond away from the monastery buildings. The name of the temple in honor of the apostles Peter and Paul is associated with the name of Peter Ivanovich Kumanin, who donated funds for its construction. When in 1918 the monastery was given over to a labor commune, services here stopped. In 1928, the Peter and Paul Church was closed; after the war, the management of the greenhouse facilities of the Soyuz NPO was located there.Church of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul
The church, which is more than 150 years old, underwent its last restoration in 1990. In 1995, Patriarch Alexy consecrated it anew, and the temple came back to life.
Temple complex Rudnya-Nikitskoe, Likino-Dulyovo
At the churchyard there are two active old wooden churches – the Nativity of Christ and the Nativity of the Virgin on the Rudnya-Nikitskoye churchyard. According to legend, the unheated Church of the Nativity of the Mother of God near Rudnya was built in the 15th century by the Metropolitan of Moscow Photius, who also left here a miraculous icon of the Mother of God.Locals claim that some elements have been preserved in the church since then, but the official date of construction is 1782.Temple complex Rudnya-Nikitskoe
The bell tower was erected in the 19th century, the painting of that period has been preserved on the dome. Previously, it stood separately, then the buildings were united and surrounded by a vestibule so that processions of the cross could be performed at any time of the year.
The warm tiered church of the Nativity of Christ is dated 1713, there is an iconostasis from 1806 and ancient icons.Particularly noteworthy is the face of St. Nicholas, who seems to be following the parishioner with his eyes, wherever he is. The foundation of the church is remarkable, it consists of huge boulders of the Ice Age, which are placed and aligned without a hint of a holding ingredient. The same boulders lie on the churchyard.90,000 Top 5 Attractions in Sofia: A Short Guide
The sights of Bulgaria are a colorful story about the people of this country, their resilience, struggle and cultural wealth.The memory of difficult times, joyful moments of the second oldest European settlement has been immortalized in ancient buildings, museums and galleries. Sofia is one of the most atmospheric places, any trip here would be incomplete without visiting these five interesting locations.
1. Cathedral of Holy Week
This magnificent domed church, built in 1863, is one of the city’s main attractions. She gained worldwide fame for its stunning beauty frescoes in the Byzantine style.The beautifully preserved carved wooden iconostasis dates from 1865. Svyataya Nedelya Square is considered the center of Sofia. The temple is located right at the ancient crossroads of Serdiki (the former name of the capital of Bulgaria).
The church was damaged by the communists on April 16, 1925, who tried to kill Boris III. More than two hundred people were killed, but the alleged victim was saved. The current architecture and design date back to 1950, when the Communist Party decided to rebuild the church, renaming it Sveta Nedelya.Previously, the temple was known as Saint Kral (Holy King), as the remains of the Serbian king Stefan Uroš II were kept here. Read more below …
2. Temple-monument of Alexander Nevsky
This is the Bulgarian Orthodox Cathedral – one of the largest in the world, one of the symbols of the city, the main tourist attraction of Sofia. Built in the neo-Byzantine style, it still serves as the cathedral church of the Patriarch of Bulgaria.
It was erected at the beginning of the 20th century as a memory of 200 thousand people.Russian, Ukrainian, Belarusian, Bulgarian soldiers who died in the Russian-Turkish war of 1877-1878. The final project was completed by the end of 1898, construction and decoration were carried out by a team of Bulgarian, Russian, Austro-Hungarian and other European artists and architects.
To the left of the altar is a cabinet with the relics of Alexander Nevsky, donated by the Russian Orthodox Church. Read more below …
3. Boyansky waterfall
It is considered the most beautiful, largest waterfall on Vitosha Mountain.The only sound that can break the unique silence and true serenity of a breathtaking landscape is the splash of water gracefully falling from 15 meters. On a clear sunny day, you can see it even from the center of the capital.
It is easy to reach, but not by car. The fastest way is from the Kopitoto Hotel (about an hour and a half on foot). You will be amazed at the wonderful nature. There are enough signs along the way to avoid getting lost. There is a dangerous area where you have to be careful when stepping on slippery river boulders, but as the road is behind, it becomes clear that the end goal was worth the effort.Experience the magic of the waterfall. Read more below …
4. Museum of Military History
The museum researches, preserves, scientifically processes and popularizes cultural values related to national and European military history. For almost 100 years of its existence, it has collected almost a million items related to military history. Most of the exhibition is the period from the April Uprising of 1876 to the First World War: weapons, rebel flags, an endless parade of uniforms and personal belongings of soldiers.
The second part of the exhibition is a park, where dozens of pieces of military equipment are kept. For those interested in World War II, it will be interesting to see a collection of German battle tanks, including the PzIII and Stugs. The street exposition includes more than 230 samples of military artillery, aviation and naval equipment. Also on display are missiles, missile launchers SCUD, FROG and SS-23. Read more below …
5. Amphitheater Serdica
In ancient times, Serdica was the capital of the eastern province of the Roman Empire, a large, well-developed city built on the Roman model with wide stone streets, a forum, beautiful temples, impressive buildings with beautiful decorations.The construction of the amphitheater began during the reign of Emperor Diocletian and was completed by Emperor Constantine. Its closure as a pagan structure took place, presumably, in the 4th century.
In 2004, during the construction of one of the Sofia hotels, builders accidentally discovered a wall from Roman times. The stands, located in the southern part of the building block, are well preserved, with the impressive structure of the curved wall supporting the stands visible. Access to the amphitheater is free, any tourist can visit it by visiting the Arena di Serdica hotel.Read more below …
Be sure to visit these sights of Sofia. The city was found on the site of a former Neolithic village in VIII BC. Today the image of the capital is changing rapidly. There are many new attractions here – modern buildings, parks, shopping centers, museums, galleries, universities. Everyone will find something for themselves.
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Kolomenskoye – introduction to the guide
The Kolomenskoye Museum-Reserve in Moscow is located on the high bank of the Moskva River in the southern district of the capital.Its area is 390 hectares.
History of the Kolomenskoye Museum-Reserve
According to legend, the village of Kolomenskoye was founded by the inhabitants of the city of Kolomna, who fled from Batu, who burned their city in 1237. In 1339, the great Tsar Ivan Kalita mentions the village in his will as his property. The estate was the fiefdom of the Moscow Grand Dukes and Tsars. By order of Vasily III in 1528-1532. in honor of the heir Ivan IV (the Terrible), the tent-roofed Church of the Ascension is being built here.Ivan the Terrible is building the Church of the Beheading of John the Baptist in the nearby village of Dyakovo. The village was also not spared by the uprising led by Ivan Bolotnikov in 1606. In November 1649, a temple of Our Lady of Kazan with two aisles was built and consecrated here. Since then, the feast of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God, which in our time falls on November 4, has been widely celebrated.
Palace in the Kolomenskoye Museum-Reserve
The village flourished during the reign of Alexei Mikhailovich, who constantly rebuilt and expanded his father’s residence near Moscow.Here he practiced falconry and held official ceremonies. In 1667-1668. on his order, a wooden palace was built with 270 rooms and 3,000 windows. The construction was carried out by an artel of carpenters under the leadership of Ivan Mikhailov and Semyon Petrov. The work was completed in the fall of 1673. In the winter of 1673, the palace was consecrated by the patriarch Pitirim. The constructed complex was divided into two halves. The man’s house included the palace of the tsar and the princes and the ceremonial entrance. The female half consisted of the palaces of the queen and princesses.In total, the palace had 26 towers of different heights – from two to four floors. The single complex included the Kazan house church and courtyards (Sytny, Kormovoy and Khlebny), Chambers (Prikaznye and Colonel’s) and guardhouses. Gardens were laid out all around. The facades were decorated with carved platbands with many colorful details and had an elegant look. Often the royal palace was called the “Palace-fairy tale” and even the eighth wonder of the world for its size and brightness. The palace was loved by all subsequent rulers. Tsars Peter and Ivan, as well as Tsarevna Sophia Alekseevna and Tsarina Natalya Kirillovna were here.Under Peter I, a new foundation was laid under the palace.
In 1694, the first exercises of Peter’s “amusing troops” took place in the village. After the capital was moved to St. Petersburg, the village fell into decay. The palace became dilapidated and was dismantled. In 1766-1767. opposite the Church of the Ascension according to the drawings of Prince P.V. Makulov, a new palace is being built. Its two lower floors were stone, and the upper ones were wooden. During her stay in Moscow, Catherine II lived here. In 1825, under Nicholas I, the palace was rebuilt again according to the project of the architect E.D. Tyurin. In the 1870s, roofs were repaired and wooden structures changed. Reconstruction of buildings was also carried out in 2001-2007.
Kolomenskoye Estate and Park
The Kolomenskoye Estate and the Museum-Reserve include churches, a church-bell tower of St. George the Victorious. It also includes a water tower and two stone entrance gates, the fence of the Tsar’s courtyard and Sytny courtyard.
The pillar-shaped temple of the Ascension, about 70 meters high, is a single vertical massif.Gradually narrowing, the temple ends with a slender tent crowned with a small drum with a small dome. Tsar Mikhail Feodorovich, in memory of the deliverance of Moscow from the Poles, ordered to lay a stone five-domed church in the name of Our Lady of Kazan, consecrated in the time of his son Alexei Mikhailovich. The house church at the royal palace, built in 1649–1653, became the first church in honor of the Kazan icon of the mother of God. The bell tower of St. George the Victorious, built in the second quarter of the 16th century, was the bell tower of the Ascension Cathedral.It is a round two-tiered tower, the walls of which are finished with false arches, pilasters and kokoshniks.
Vodovzvodnaya Tower, built in the 70s of the 17th century, served as a gate and provided water to the Tsar’s yard. Kolomenskoye Park is famous for its gardens, which occupy a significant part of its territory. These were Krasny and Kazansky, New and Voznesensky, Bolshoi and Dyakovsky gardens. Cedars and firs, walnuts grew here. Apples and pears, vegetables and medicinal herbs were grown. To date, only Kazan, Dyakovsky and Voznesensky gardens have survived.In our time, the Kolomenskoye park is being transformed. Very beautiful and graceful bridges are thrown over the ravines. Near the famous palace ravine, there are two boulders that have healing powers. They are called “Maiden’s Stone” and “Goose Stone”. You can take a river tram ride from the pier.
Museum-Reserve Kolomenskoye Estate
At the initiative of the architect P.D. Baranovsky, the Kolomenskoye Museum-Reserve was founded in 1923. He also became its first director.At the end of the 1920s, to create a museum of wooden architecture, a mead brewery from the village of Preobrazhensky, the house of Peter I from Arkhangelsk and the Mokhovaya tower of the Sumy prison of the 17th century were brought here. The gates of the Nikolo-Korelsky monastery were brought from the White Sea. In 1959, the tower of the Bratsk prison from Siberia was erected next to them. Here are collected wooden buildings from various regions of Russia.
In 1971, this area became a state museum-reserve. Finds from the Neolithic era and rare prints are kept here.Some items from the temples destroyed at different times were also brought here. It houses most of the unique collection of antique kiln ceramics. This is one of the most picturesque places in the capital. The famous old oak grove and the healing water of the Kadochka springs are natural monuments. The springs are named after the saints: Nicholas the Pleasant, George and the Twelve Apostles. The Maiden’s Stone and Horse’s Head boulders have magical powers and also attract visitors. In 2008, the restoration of wooden architecture monuments was carried out.A smithy with a stable, an apiary with a manor and a water mill appeared. In the buildings of the 16-19 centuries, expositions are deployed.
The Kolomenskoye Museum-Reserve in Moscow is the pearl of the capital. The Church of the Ascension of the Lord is included in the UNESCO cultural heritage list.90,000 10 wonders of the Leningrad region | St. Petersburg Center
The Mon Repos Park, which means “my peace” in French, reached its greatest prosperity in the 18-19th centuries, when it passed into the private possession of the barons Nicholas.Under Ludwig Heinrich Nikolai, landscaping continued, a wooden manor, a library, numerous pavilions were built, statues were installed, and bridges were erected. The Baron’s descendants lived in the family estate and continued their father’s work: new monuments and pavilions, statues, Gothic gates, the family necropolis, a greenhouse and an orchard appeared in the park.
The dominant feature of the architectural complex of the Mon Repos Park is a wooden manor, made in the style of classicism. It is believed that this is a rebuilt building, erected during the reign of Peter Alekseevich Stupishin in 1783.The author of the project for the reconstruction of the estate was the painter Giuseppe Antonio Martinelli. The main estate of Mon Repos is a one-story wooden structure on a high base of granite boulders. The main facade of the building has a clear division into a central part and side wings protruding forward.
In the 1820s, a quadrangular portico was added to the estate. At the end of the 19th century, a terrace appeared at the end of the house from the side of the entrance gate, and a veranda with a balustrade on the east side.In the 1960s, the main manor house underwent a major overhaul in order to adapt the premises to the needs of the kindergarten.
Paulstein Pavilion is one of the very first buildings in the park. The baron named the building after his son Paul Nicolai. Estimated date of construction 1796-1797. A small pond was built next to the pavilion and trees were planted. In 1798 the place around was called Paul’s garden near Paulstein. The building was completely destroyed in the 1940s.
The Marienturm Pavilion appeared in the second half of the 18th century, when Chinese motifs were very fashionable in landscape parks. The owners of Mon Repos also paid tribute to fashion. A wooden structure with a viewing platform, created in the Chinese style, appeared in the park at the end of the 18th century. The pavilion got its name in honor of the Grand Duchess Maria Feodorovna. It is believed that the building appeared in the park in 1784-1786, when it was owned by Friedrich of Württemberg, brother of the future empress. From the upper platform of the Marienturm, there were wonderful views of the bay and rocks.The building has not survived to this day; now on this place you can see only the remains of the foundation.
In the northern part of the estate, on a small island, which is a granite rock, there is a complex of structures and monuments, including the snow-white Ludwigsburg chapel, the family necropolis of the Nikolai family, the Medusa’s grotto, a gate, a pier and several granite stairs leading to the rock.
The buildings on the Hermit’s Rock appeared gradually. One of the first on the island were built a bridge, later replaced by a dam, a stone staircase to the top, Medusa’s grotto.At the same time, the owners of the estate had the idea of building a Gothic castle. The author of the project of the neo-Gothic chapel was the English architect Charles Heathcote Tatam. The building was in perfect harmony with the main gate of the manor, created in the same style. The only way to get to the island was by ferry.
At the end of the 18th century, the system of artificial ponds and islets created in the center of the estate was united by two stylized Chinese arched bridges. The structures were equipped with locks to regulate the water level in the ponds.The author of the project was Giuseppe Martinelli, who created many buildings and structures in Mon Repos. In combination with the stylized Chinese pavilion Marienturm, the bridges formed a single harmonious ensemble.
At the beginning of the 19th century, presumably by order of Ludwig Nikolai, a tent was erected on a small coastal island on the very shore. These stylized pavilions, which had a striped cylindrical base and a hipped roof with a Turkish crescent on the spire, were very popular in the landscape parks of the time.They served as a reminder of the peace concluded between Russia and the Ottoman Empire in 1774.
In 1804, a monument in the form of a Tuscan column was erected on a mound in the eastern part of the estate. This monument was dedicated by Baron Nicholas to the emperors Paul I and his son Alexander I, thanks to which the park became the property of the family and was inherited. The currently existing monument is made of gray-green marble and sits on a high pedestal. The slab built into the base has an inscription in Latin: “Caesar gave us this peace”.
In the central part of Mon Repos, on a steep cliff, an obelisk of Finnish gray-green marble rises. The commemorative stele, located on a two-stage plinth, was designed by Charles Heathkot Tatam. At the base of the pedestal there are slabs with dough in Latin: two of them are dedicated to Tsar Alexander I and the installation of the monument, two to the princes de Broglie. The monument was erected on the Leucatian rock in 1827 in memory of the brothers of Paul’s wife Nicolai, August and Carl Broglie. Born princes de Broglie served in the Preobrazhensky and Semenovsky regiments and died in battles during the Patriotic War of 1812.You can climb to the monument along the paths from the embankment or from the linden alley.
Paul Nicolai, who was in England in the diplomatic service, saw “Chinese umbrellas” in a landscape English park. The buildings were located on viewpoints, from which interesting views of the surroundings opened up. The young baron liked the idea very much, and in 1798 he sent the drawings to the famous Austrian gardener Bisterfeld.
The gardener placed the structure on a large boulder on the east side of the manor gate, adding a staircase leading to the umbrella.Ludwig Nikolai, who arrived at the estate, liked the building very much. But since the end of the 1870s, there has been no documentary mention of the Chinese umbrella.
In the 1820s, a small stone pavilion Narcissus, made in a romantic style, appeared over an old spring located in the northwestern part of the park. Since ancient times, the local population considered the water from this source to be curative, helping with eye diseases. Initially, a sculpture of the supposedly mythical hero Narcissus was installed in the niche of the pavilion, which was lost in the post-war period.
Today the spring is active and retains its healing properties to this day. Passing through the granite rocks, the water is enriched with radon and trace elements. According to its medicinal properties, it belongs to the group of cold, weakly mineralized fresh soft waters.
On a narrow promontory in the northern part of the estate in the 1830s, a wooden structure was built, called the Temple of Neptune. Two large spruces were left nearby. One of them has survived to this day. Inside the Temple of Neptune there were various sculptural groups: the goddess Pietas with a baby in her arms, Neptune on a pedestal decorated with a flock of dolphins.
The history of the Mon Repos estate and park is tragic in many ways. The last male member of the family, Paul Georg Nicolai, managed to save the estate from ruin during the civil war. The Baron died in 1919 and was buried in the family crypt. His sister Sofia, who was married to Count Konstantin von der Palen, inherited and lived in the estate with her family until the 1939 Soviet-Finnish war.
In 1960, Mon Repos Park was recognized as a historical and cultural monument of republican significance.Count Nicholas von der Palen, who arrived in the Soviet Union, visited the family estate and was amazed at the deplorable state of the estate. The campaign to save the unique cultural monument was led by Academician Dmitry Sergeevich Likhachev. Together with an initiative group, which consisted of residents of Vyborg, he managed to achieve the creation of a museum called the State Historical, Architectural and Natural Museum-Reserve “Mon Repos Park”.
The main gate, an obelisk dedicated to Augustus and Karl Broglio, a column erected in honor of Paul I and Alexander I, a tea pavilion, Chinese bridges, a manor house, the Ludwigsburg chapel, a pavilion above the source, a library wing, sculpture Väinemeinen from Kalevala and a number of other sights and monuments.Until recently, the festivals “Golden Autumn in Mon Repos”, “Door to Summer”, “Robinsonade” were held on the territory of the park. The entrance to the Mon Repos Park is paid.
Location of Mon Repos Park
- Leningrad Region, Vyborg, Mon Repos Park, 19
Distance from St. Petersburg
How to get to Mon Repos Park
- Electric trains and the Moscow-Helsinki train run from St. Petersburg to Vyborg from St. Petersburg. You can go by bus number 850, 859 from the metro stations “Devyatkino” and “Parnas”.
- You can walk to the park from the center of Vyborg, about 3.5 km. Or from the railway or bus station, take bus No. 1 or 6.
- By car, drive along the A181 “Scandinavia” motorway to the Vyborg junction. Or by road E-18, M-10 St. Petersburg – Helsinki to Vyborg.