FAST Drill | Push Your Limits To The Extreme ⋆ Primer Peak
This week’s Pistol Power Drill is another classic benchmark that will show you exactly what you need to work on. The Fundamentals, Accuracy, & Speed Test, also known as the FAST Drill was created by the late great Todd Luis Green. If you want to see how you will perform under stress, the FAST will give you all the stress you can handle.
How To Shoot The FAST Drill
The FAST Drill uses two targets, one 3″x5″ index card, and an 8″ paper plate. The index card simulates the head, and the plate simulates the chest. Although there is a purpose made FAST target, it requires 11″x14″ paper, which isn’t nearly as commonly used in household printers.
The shooter begins at seven yards, with pistol holstered, loaded with two rounds. At the buzzer, the shooter draws and fires two rounds into the index card. The gun should lock open, and the shooter performs a slide lock reload. Once the pistol is back into action, the shooter fires four rounds into the plate. After this, the drill is completed.
6.52 second FAST with no incurred penalties.
Par time for The FAST is done in tiers; 10+ seconds is Novice, under 10 seconds is Intermediate, under 7 seconds is Advanced, and under 5 seconds is Expert. Misses to the index card add two seconds to the time, and misses to the plate add one second. This drill is meant to be shot from concealment, however, if you shoot unconcealed using an open top holster, IE. Safariland ALS, a half second is added to your time. If you shoot using flap top holsters or magazine pouches, subtract half a second from your time. The list of those who’ve cleared The FAST Drill in under 5 seconds is quite small, but it gets bigger each year.
What Do You Need To Do The FAST Drill?
Planning for The FAST Drill, be sure to pack a good holster and magazine carrier, a shot timer, and your targets. I prefer to use index cards and paper plates for my targets, although, we’ll have the printable 11″x14″ paper target down below too. Make sure that your printer is capable of printing the target, or else you’ll end up with a smaller, much harder FAST target. If you haven’t already picked one up, the Pocket Pro II is still at a great price. It is a great tool for practice sessions, and you’ll need it to accurately track your time.
Pistol Forum F.A.S.T. Target<—Make sure that you are using 11″x14″ paper, scale to 100%
The FAST becomes even harder when printed on the wrong paper.
What Does The FAST Drill Do?
The FAST is exactly what it sets out to be; a test of fundamentals, accuracy, and speed. This drill rings most of the bells, such as draw stroke, grip, sight alignment, trigger press, reloading, and target transition. It also stresses your cadence, a topic that I’ve covered in the past.
For that first target, you need to have a fast draw and a strong grip. With your first two rounds being on a fairly small target, you’ve got to have solid sight alignment and a smooth trigger press. Any deviation can, and probably will lead to a miss.
With the second target, the reload is key. It absolutely has to be fast. Getting back on target, we can speed up for the last four rounds, as the target is considerably larger. Cadence comes into play too, as our seven-yard rate of fire changes as we transition between targets. The Baer Solutions Standards Drill is similar to The FAST but in a sort of reverse order. Both stress very important, similar skills.
The FAST Drill is Important
The FAST is an important drill, one that is near and dear to me. Back when I first got into practical pistol shooting, and real practice, the FAST was one of the first drills I was introduced to. I’ve had paper plates and index cards in my range bag since. The FAST never ceases to please, as there is always room for improvement with it. Get out to the range, and give this one a try!
Drill Bit Speed – Hardwood and Softwood
Recommended drill bit speed in hardwood and softwood are indicated below:
|Softwood (Pine)||Hardwood (Hard Marple)||Acrylic||Brass||Aluminum||Steel|
|Twist drill bits|
|1/16 – 3/16||3000||3000||2500||3000||3000||3000|
|1/4 – 3/8||3000||1500||2000||1200||2500||1000|
|7/16 – 5/8||1500||750||1500||750||1500||600|
|1 1/16 – 1||750||500||–||400||1000||350|
|1/4 – 3/8||2400||700||–||–||–||–|
|1/2 – 5/8||2400||500||250||–||–||–|
|3/4 – 1||1500||500||250||–||–||–|
|1 1/8 – 1 1/4||1000||250||250||–||–||–|
|1 3/8 – 2||500||250||–||–||–||–|
|1/4 – 1/2||2000||1500||–||–||–||–|
|5/8 – 1||1750||1500||–||–||–||–|
|1 1/8 – 1 1/2||1500||1000||–||–||–||–|
|1 5/8 – 2||1200||700||–||–||–||–|
The Truth About Cordless Drill Torque and Speed
In our epic best cordless drill reviews article, we compared more than 50 models. Needless to say, we found a lot of really capable cordless drills. Want to guess how many perfect ones there are? Zero. Zilch. Nada. None of them are the lightest, most compact, fastest, most powerful, most feature-rich, and best value all in one package. Every product team has to make intentional decisions to prioritize certain aspects along the way. Some have exceptional torque. Others drill very quickly at top speed. With that in mind, let’s look at the truth about cordless drill torque and speed.
Drill Torque and Speed Have an Inverse Relationship
The first truth about cordless drill torque and speed has to do with how those two metrics interact. Torque and speed in drills have an inverse relationship. As you increase speed, you actually decrease torque. Consequently, when drilling at high speed, you have less torque available. When you drill at low speed, you can access the most torque the drill has to offer.
That’s different from an impact driver that delivers more power as you increase speed. And that’s only one of the key differences between a drill vs impact driver.
When you change speeds, you’re mechanically changing gears. The gearing is what determines how fast and powerful each mode is. If you have a brushless drill, there are some electronics that come into play as well.
That’s where each product manager has to make a call. When you’re debating different models, cordless drill torque and speed are the two primary numbers most of us consider and big numbers look great on packaging.
Smaller numbers can actually be better, though. Take the Milwaukee Gen 3 M18 Fuel drill. There’s enough energy to push higher RPMs (The Metabo BS 18 LTX-3 BL Q hammer drill does 3800 RPM!). Milwaukee’s team caps the RPMs knowing full well other drills might be faster on light-load applications.
They channel the extra energy into additional torque at high speed. By doing that, you can drive larger bits at high speed. That ultimately lets you do more jobs at high speed. In fact, you can drive a 2-9/16″ self-feed bit through untreated 2x in high speed with the Milwaukee. You might not care if you’re framing, but a plumber working on rough-ins doesn’t have to drop into low speed or grab a Cordless Super Hawg to get those holes drilled.
How Do I Choose?
There’s no magic formula to choose between cordless drill torque and speed, but there are some general conclusions we can make.
The torque rating is a standardized test that measures how much torque the drill produces in a very brief moment while it’s locked down. We take these into account in our best cordless drill article. However, our top recommendations don’t always mimic the listed torque values.
While that might seem to complicate things, it’s still a good place to start. Let’s say you’re considering three drills with the following specs:
- Torque: 1100 in-lbs
- High-Speed: 2000 RPM
- Low Speed: 550 RPM
- Torque: 1150 in-lbs
- High-Speed: 2100 RPM
- Low Speed: 450 RPM
- Torque: 1050 in-lbs
- High-Speed: 1900 RPM
- Low Speed: 600 RPM
All three drills are in the same ballpark for torque—we’re not considering a compact drill vs a heavy-duty one. When you look at the high-speed ratings, Drill #2 (2100 RPM) is going to drill the fastest, right?
Under a light load, yes. But Drill #3 (1900 RPM) is going to let you use larger bits without dropping into low speed. Drill #1 (2000 RPM) finds a balance between the two.
It’s a similar story at low speed. Even though Drill #2 (450 RPM) is the slowest, it’s likely going to give you more sustained torque and drive larger bits more effectively. Drill #3 (600 RPM) looks pretty attractive, but it’s going to struggle more with bits that #2 is still steadily plugging away with.
It’s all an intentional gearing decision.
Great Theory, Got Any Real Data?
Editor’s Note: This got geeky in a hurry. Feel free to pick through this data or just skip down to the conclusion.
Here are three drills we compared head-to-head and how they actually did compared to their specifications. I chose them because their measured soft torque numbers are in the same ballpark as each other.
- Listed Torque: 841 in-lbs
- Measured Soft Torque: 618.8 in-lbs
- No-Load High Speed: 2014 RPM
- High-Speed Drilling Result: 1906 RPM
- No-Load Low Speed: 457 RPM
- Low-Speed Drilling Result: 433 RPM
- Listed Torque: 1090 in-lbs
- Measured Soft Torque: 585.6 in-lbs
- No-Load High Speed: 2147 RPM
- High-Speed Drilling Result: 1646 RPM
- No-Load Low Speed: 550 RPM
- Low-Speed Drilling Result: 474 RPM
- Listed Torque: 1300 in-lbs
- Measured Soft Torque: 615.6 in-lbs
- No-Load High Speed: 2000 RPM
- High-Speed Drilling Result: 1621 RPM
- No-Load Low Speed: 547 RPM
- Low-Speed Drilling Result: 437 RPM
The results don’t line up as nicely as the theoretical section above but there is a clear takeaway. DeWalt has the slowest no-load speeds in both high and low gears along with the highest measured torque (it’s specced torque is actually significantly lower than the other two).
Notice how much higher DeWalt’s efficiency (percent of no-load speed) is. The other two drills are starting to slow down under these loads, but DeWalt still has more left to give. By giving up a little top-end speed in both modes, it’s able to handle these larger bits more easily.
Ridgid helps make this point. Even though it’s 100 RPM faster in low, it’s only 4 RPM faster with that 2-9/16″ bit.
Make the Call
Looking at the data on a broader level, it doesn’t all work out that nicely and there’s a lot we can’t explain (like why a drill with 841 in-lbs of torque posts more soft torque than one with 1090 in-lbs). It’s tough to take different manufacturers with different motors, batteries, and electronics and then say with absolute authority which one you should buy.
The way to choose between cordless drill torque and speed is to take an honest look at the work you do. If you’re a plumber or electrician, you’re drilling larger holes more frequently. Giving up some top-end speed for a drill that lets you work at high speed for more bit sizes makes sense.
If you’re working mainly with twist bits and smaller spade bits/hole saws, having a higher top end speed makes sense.
But here’s the thing—all three of our example drills can do the same work. They all have enough torque muscle to keep driving the same bits. It’s just a matter of how hard the drill has to work in each gear.
At the end of the day, pick a battery platform that has all of the tools you need at a price that fits your budget with the quality you expect. If you start there, they’ll have a cordless drill that fits your needs.
RAID: Rapid Access Isotope Drill
Ice cores take a long time to collect. The 3.4 km- ice core drilled at Dome Concordia (Antarctica) took 5 years to collect and encloses the oldest ice drilled so far, reaching 800,000 years. The thickness of the ice and geothermal energy at this site result in ice at the bottom that was found to be melting, erasing precious past climate and environmental information.
In order to help finding the most suitable site in Antarctica to retrieve an ice core reaching 1. 5 Ma year-old without having to collect a full ice-core, a new drill (the Rapid Access Isotope Drill, or RAID) is being developed by BAS. Rather than collect a full ice-core this drill will chop up the ice and will allow collecting ice chippings. Analysis of stable water isotopes on these ice chippings will then be done in the BAS lab facilities to infer the age of the ice. Drilling with RAID will be significantly faster since:
- the winch can be geared to operate much faster because we will not collect a full ice core (typically 1.5m long section drilled at a time with a 10cm-diameter),
- the borehole diameter has been reduced and less material is removed which also allows reducing the power requirements,
- the core quality is not important which allows the cutters to be more aggressive.
These improvements allow 600 meters to be drilling in approximately 7 days, a depth which would take over 2 months to drill conventionally. The new drill also provides an access hole down which a temperature sensing cable can be deployed to obtain a temperature profile for the upper 600m of the ice. Ice sheet modellers will use the temperature profile and data from ice radars (aPRES and DELORES) to calculate whether the ice is melting at its base.
Although the RAID is designed to search for older ice it will also provide a lightweight drill (about 530 kg) to access up to 650m of ice that will be particularly useful for other applications currently under development ( e.g. Rapid access to bedrock for sampling rocks).
Video of the RAID: Rapid Access Isotope Drill in use in Antarctica – video runs at x2 speed
- To provide a rapid way to assess the potential of a site to find ice older than 1 million years.
- To quickly collect ice chippings from up to 650m deep.
- To provide a quick access borehole to depths of 650m.
10 Freestyle Drills for a Faster Freestyle
Power up your freestyle with 10 freestyle drills from some of the best coaches and swimmers on the planet.
Everybody wants to swim faster freestyle and to improve their freestyle stroke, but all too often we get hung up on particular technical and mechanical shortcomings. Our catch isn’t strong enough, we lack proper rotation or our feel for the water isn’t quite there yet.
That’s where freestyle drills are designed to help, by getting you to focus on a particular segment of your stroke, and then transferring it to your regular swimming stroke.
The following swimming drills for freestyle are designed to help you swim faster and to swim better.
Drills shouldn’t just be done for the sake of doing them, but rather, to apply them to your swimming.
Pick and choose a couple of the drills to incorporate at your next swim workout, and mix it with your swimming in order to reap the benefits of developing a more purposeful and faster freestyle.
In no particular order, here are 10 drills for freestylers:
1. Closed-fist Freestyle.
One of my favorite freestyle drills, and about as simple as it gets. Closed fist freestyle.
The drill is exactly as it sounds: You ball up your hands, removing the surface area that your out-stretched fingers would usually provide for your pull, and swim freestyle as you normally would.
It reinforces the notion that when you are pulling that you should also be using your forearms and not just your hands! This added emphasis on the surface area of the forearm also pushes you towards a higher elbow recovery.
Your stroke count per length will go down a little bit, and once you unclench those hands you will get a little jolt of power, your hands now feeling like over-sized swim paddles.
Best for: Increasing feel for the water with your forearm. Encouraging high elbow recovery.
This isn’t technically a drill, but it requires your full attention and concentration. The goal is simple: to swim as fast as you can, taking as few strokes as possible. Add time and stroke count together, and you get a total number that you should strive to beat.
This kind of swimming forces you to be efficient with every part of your stroke. You look for ways to take less stroke while maintaining speed, whether it’s keeping your hips raised, your head straight, nailing that high elbow recovery, and kicking without clanging your ankles together.
In the video below, while wearing fins and paddles, I am doing reps of 25-yards taking 5 strokes in approximately :10. (Giving me a Mini-Maxi score of 15.)
3. Underwater Freestyle with Fins.
This is an advanced freestyle drill that helps you to really feel out every aspect of your stroke. In particular, the added resistance of the water to your recovery will help to strengthen and increase the arm speed on the recovery.
A problem many competitive swimmers have once they get to a particular level of conditioning is that their turnover is too slow. They have the distance per stroke aspect nailed down, but need to crank up the RPM.
This drill creates resistance on the arm recovery, which will have your arms flying once you return to regular freestyle.
Best for: Freestylers who want to improve hand speed in the water.
4. Head-up Freestyle.
Not my favorite, but it does a couple of things for your swimming. It puts you off-balance, forcing you to kick harder to maintain a somewhat straight body line. It removes any over-glide at the front of your stroke because gliding will sink your face into the water.
I find that having your head up out of the water gives you another angle at your hand entry. The removal of the glide also forces you to maintain a continuous rhythm with your stroke, which will encourage a higher elbow recovery.
Perform the drill with fins for added leg work.
Best for: Freestylers who are prone to over-gliding. A good warm-up for sprint work later in the workout.
5. Hand-drag Drill.
Another classic for hand speed and arm recovery speed for you freestylers with a classic, and one of my old stand-by drills– the hand-drag.
How do you do it? Swim freestyle normally, but during the recovery phase drag your hand through the water. Keep your hand rigid for added resistance (i.e. don’t just drag your hand limply through the water).
When you return to normal swimming your arm recovery will feel like it’s slashing through the air.
Take it to the next level by throwing on some paddles to make it even more challenging.
Best for: Improving hand speed, maintaining body line.
6. Freestyle with Dolphin Kicks.
At the Sydney 2000 Olympics Michael Klim lead of the Australian men’s 4x100m freestyle relay. In the final 15m he switched his kick over to a dolphin kick (Klim is a multiple world record holder in the butterfly) as he powered into the wall, breaking the world record in the 100m freestyle with his hybrid stroke, clocking a 48.18.
It wasn’t until late 2015 that another elite swimmer–Michael Phelps–began also experimenting with fly kick at the end of freestyle races in international competition.
The reason that it works for these athletes is that they are both natural butterfliers, but also because the rhythm of using dolphin kicks helps to keep the stroke rate from tapering off when fatigue and exhaustion are setting in at the end of the race.
By adding dolphin kick to your freestyle arms you cannot help but begin to develop a rhythm that promotes the smooth, kayak stroke we want in our freestyle.
The first time trying it will be a little awkward, but once you get comfortable with it you’ll be surprised at how fast you can get going.
Best for: Improving stroke rhythm. Increasing stroke rate. Encouraging a high elbow catch.
Sculling is the Swiss-army knife of swimming drills. The variations you can come up with are nearly endless, and can help improve your feel for the water.
- Having trouble sticking the hand entry? Spend some time sculling back and forth (none of those half-breaststroke strokes!) with your hand or hands outstretched above you.
- Want more power and more “stick” with your catch? Angle your arm a few inches below the surface and scull your way down until your arm is perpendicular to your body.
When you are doing sculling drills get your body positioned as closely as to when you are normally swimming to maximize effect. If this means using a pull-buoy or fins to achieve a proper body position, so be it!
Best for: Trouble-shooting the weak parts of your stroke.
8. Dip & Kick.
I stumbled across this freestyle drill last year and fell in love with it right away. It comes courtesy of Mike Bottom (University of Michigan’s head coach), and one of his former swimmers Bobby Savulich who demonstrates it below.
I prefer doing it in a long course pool so that you can get a few stroke cycles in. With swimming fins on in particular once your arms get going you can build up some great speed.
Here is Coach Bottom explaining how the drill works:
Best for: Exploding the shoulders out of the water. Proper hand entry.
9. Catch-Up Freestyle
One of the classic freestyle drills, Catch-Up is used with swimmers from tadpoles to experienced Olympians.
Catch-up freestyle helps isolate arm movement, which is good for teaching young swimmers proper mechanics, helps with distance per stroke, while it also promotes a hand entry that doesn’t cross-over.
In the video below Lower Moreland Swimming’s head coach Karney McNear shows his swimmers performing the drill at a recent practice.
Notice how the drill encourages the swimmers to use a fuller and more balanced flutter kick in order to sustain propulsion:
10. Freestyle Retraction Drill
Elite freestylers understand that having a strong early vertical forearm is essential to fast swimming. Having good EVF means that you get into the catch earlier, which results in a “fuller” and more powerful pulling motion.
Coley Stickels, coach at the University of Alabama, has used the retraction drill with his swimmers in the past, including Olympians Abbey Weitzel, Roland Schoeman and Santo Condorelli.
Some focus points on doing the drill properly:
- Strap on a swimming snorkel and one paddle.
- The paddle stays on the “catch” arm, with the opposite arm in a recovery position.
- The catch arm does a quick scoop-like motion engaging the core and forcing the torso and hips into a flattened position, while the recovery arm moves forward.
- Both arms quickly retract to the original catch and recovery position, before then taking a full cycle of a stroke.
- The swim paddle then switches to the other hand.
Take The Next Step
Developing a smoother, more powerful freestyle is actually pretty simple when you start to break it down into sections.
Whether it is improving stroke rhythm, keeping your elbow from dropping, or increasing your stroke rate there is a drill to help you break it down and improve it.
Try out the above freestyle drills during your next practice and drill your way to a faster and more technically proficient freestyle.
** Shout-out to Coaches Brett Hawke, Karney McNear, and Coley Stickels for taking the time to share videos of the above drills.
Drill Bits | DEWALT
DEWALT offers a variety of cordless drill bits and drill bit sets that stay sharp. They are great for wood, plastic, aluminum, and lite steel. DEWALT impact driver bits, drill driver bits and cordless drill bits are perfect for commercial, residential, and hobby applications. DEWALT drill bits are fast and easy to load, deliver strong performance and are a must-have for any professional contractor or residential handyman. Shop Now.
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Rapid Access Ice Drill (RAID)
Construction of the drilling system began in June, 2014. Initial field tests of the system in North America are scheduled for early 2015, to be followed by a set of field validation trials in Antarctica in the 2016-17 austral summer.
The RAID platform is designed to address a wide range of interdisciplinary research goals of the international scientific community. These include a search for polar paleoclimate records in ice greater than 1 million years old, observation and sampling of the base of the Antarctic ice cap, and recovery of rock cores from ice-covered geologic provinces of Antarctica, a virtually unknown continent larger than the continental U.S. By keeping the boreholes open with a stabilizing fluid after drilling is complete, researchers will also be able to lower instruments and logging devices into the boreholes in order to measure thermal gradient, heat flow, ice accumulation history, and ice deformation processes. RAID will also sample for extremophile micro-organisms that may be present at the base of the ice sheets.
This new drilling system is based on modification of an industry-standard diamond rock-coring system as used in mineral exploration. Threaded metal drill pipe sections will be assembled at the surface as the drill cuts its way downward through ice using customized metal bits. A special circulating fluid will be used to lubricate the drill pipe, maintain proper temperature at the cutting surface, and return ice cuttings to the surface, where they will be separated from the recirculating fluid. Near the bottom of the ice sheet, diamond tools will be lowered through the drill string to enable coring of ice, material in the glacial bed, and the solid bedrock below. These cores will be returned to the surface in sections by use of a wireline retrieval system. Once drilling is complete, the boreholes will be maintained with a stabilizing fluid, capped, and made available for future down-hole measurements.
How to drill metal with a drill
Hello everyone! If you wish, you can write a very long article about how to drill metal with a drill. But I see two main problems here:
- inability to accurately drill in the place where the hole is required
- rapid blunting of drills
Typically inexperienced users encounter such problems. Experienced men know what to do in such cases. Well, considering myself a seasoned person, I will take the liberty of telling you how to cope with these problems.Well, I will also give you some tips that will also come in handy.
How to drill in the right place?
If you think about this question a little, then the answer should visit your head even without a clue. Well, it seems to me at least. But if you are reluctant to think, then read.
A core is required for this case. It is a solid steel tool with a cylindrical shape and a sharp point at the end.
Place the tip at the desired drilling location and hit the roll on the other side with a hammer several times.
Now that you have drilled in, place a drill on the unevenness obtained on the surface and start drilling – the tip will not run away anywhere.
How not to blunt drills?
Drills for metal become dull if they get too hot during operation, due to which they lose their strength. Heating is due to friction. Moreover, the faster it spins, the more it heats up.
Hence the obvious rule – you need to drill at low drill speeds. They should be no more than 1000 per minute.But who will measure this during work? So just don’t push the start button all the way. The correct speed can be estimated as follows: the eye must see the rotation of the drill. That is, the grooves on it should not merge into one whole for sight.
When working with thick workpieces, additional cooling is indispensable. It is provided with special lubricants or pastes that are added to the drilling site, or a drill is dipped in them. In addition, they not only cool but also lubricate the tip, resulting in less friction.
There is no need for special lubricants and pastes in domestic conditions. You can get by with ordinary machine oil.
So, use a core, drill at low speeds and add grease or oil, and then this business will seem like an easy walk to you.
Well, some more tips on this topic.
For drilling, take only metal drills (not wood, for example). They have their own sharpening and are made from certain types of steel.The most common ones are marked P6M5 – this is high-speed steel, which foreign manufacturers mark as HSS.
Titanium nitride coating is applied to the above drills for added strength. Because of what they are yellow.
There are also stronger P18s, which are used accordingly for hardened steels.
Also, to increase the strength, cobalt can be added, and then the marking P6M5K5 is obtained.
Well, the most durable are drills with a carbide tip.They are used for drilling alloy steels. It will also take ordinary steel, but it will be somewhat prudent to buy it just for this, since the price for them is quite high, while it, although solid, is still dull. But it will be difficult to sharpen it later, since this requires a diamond disc, which is also not very cheap, and even not everywhere you can buy.
Drilling thick workpieces
If the workpiece has a thickness of more than 5 mm, and you need a hole of more than 8 mm, then it is better to first make a hole with a thin drill, and only then work with a thick one.
Working with certain types of metal
- When drilling thick aluminum workpieces, the shavings often clog the drill channels, making it harder to rotate. Therefore, when working with such material, take the drill out of the recess more often and remove the shavings. Well, do not forget to sprinkle with plenty of oil.
- If you need to drill black cast iron, then you do not need to add any cooling lubricants for this, since it can be drilled very well dry
- Unlike black, white cast iron has increased strength, which means that strong drills and lubrication are required for its processing.
These are the basic rules for drilling metal with a drill.I hope I was able to fill this gap in your knowledge. Good luck with your household chores and see you!
How and with what to drill ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware?
When planning a renovation in the bathroom, it seems that the most difficult thing is to lay the tiles, but the next difficulties await us when installing plumbing fixtures, shelves, cabinets, mirrors and other accessories on the tiled walls. To do this, you will have to drill holes in the tiled flooring.
In this article, you will learn how to properly drill a tile wall, which drills to use for small and large holes. We will show you some simple ways to protect tiles from chips and cracks. You will learn how to use masking tape for more accurate drilling and what a tile ballerina is.
Ceramic tile is a hard and brittle material that is difficult to drill but easy to crack. One mistake or awkward movement can damage it, and you will have to read other instructions for replacing cracked tiles.Therefore, before you start drilling, make sure you know how to drill the tiles. Fortunately, we have a lot of tips for you to help you do everything accurately and accurately.
Step 1. Know your tile.
The first thing you need to know is the tile type you are working with.
It is important to understand that not all ceramic tiles are created equal. It has a wide range of hardness. Porcelain stoneware is especially difficult to process due to its high density and hardness.It is more difficult to drill than conventional ceramics and tiles, so you need a special tool for porcelain stoneware.
Ceramic tiles are often glazed. The glaze on its surface is nothing more than a thin layer of liquid glass, which is very difficult to break through. The tip of the drill slides over it, making it difficult to start drilling and can lead to scratches.
When you know what you are facing, you can start choosing a tool.
Step 2. Choose the correct drill.
Regardless of the type of ceramic you are trying to drill, never use old and worn out drills. Not only are they ineffective, but they also increase the chances of surface damage. Conventional concrete drills will not drill the tiles, but simply crumble them into pieces. To work with it, you will need a tool, the cutting part of which is much harder than ceramics and tiles.
For small holes (for dowels) use:
- Diamond coated tubular drills.
- Spear drills with carbide tip.
- Carbide Twist Drills.
Drill types for ceramics
Diamond tubular drills are very effective, durable and easy to use, although they are much more expensive. Thanks to the diamond grit on the cutting edge, they are able to cut through the hardest materials such as stoneware and porcelain. However, it makes no sense to buy them because of the few holes, unless you have a desire to become a professional tiler in your plans.
Carbide tiled drills have an easily recognizable spear shape and a maximum drilling diameter of 12 mm. Hard tip due to the special sharpening of the cutting edges reduces the likelihood of cracking and splitting. Its hardness is so high that it can even be drilled into porcelain stoneware, but after five holes the sharpening decreases sharply.
Tip! With a small amount of work in porcelain stoneware, it is more profitable to purchase lance-shaped drills with a victorious tip, despite the fact that they quickly become blunt in hard material.Diamond tooling costs about 5 times more, so it is worth buying for large volumes of work.
Drills of the spiral type with victorious solder are often used by home craftsmen instead of a special drill for ceramics due to the high availability of this tool. They are designed for drilling concrete and stone, but they can easily cope with ceramic tiles. Before starting work, punch the surface with light hammer blows on the drill, and drill at minimum speed with utmost care.
How to drill large holes in tiles?
For drilling large sockets with a diameter of up to 150 mm, for example, for socket outlets, lamps, mixers, pipes, use:
- diamond core bits
- circular adjustable drill (ballerina)
Tool for making large holes in ceramics
Diamond core bits are sometimes referred to as diamond hole saws.There are no restrictions on the hardness of the tiles for them, they will drill whatever you put in front of them – tiles, ceramics, porcelain, tempered glass, reinforced concrete. Due to the exceptional wear resistance of industrial diamonds in their working segment, more than 100 cuts can be made with one bit. To extend the service life of such equipment, water is supplied to the working area; in extreme cases, the crown is periodically dipped into a container with water.
A circular drill with adjustment or in the common people “ballerina” is used in all existing types of non-solid ceramic and tile tiles.Its cost is low, and its service life is quite long. The advantage over crowns is that the “ballerina” allows you to set any non-standard diameter within the specified values, as a rule, it is from 30 to 90 mm. Its spear-shaped cutter with a victorious soldering lends itself to sharpening.
Tip! If you want to achieve a smooth cut without chipping the glaze, choose a diamond core bit. If the cleanliness of the cut is not required, for example, under the switch, then – “ballerina”.
Step 3.Prepare the surface for drilling.
To prevent the drill from sliding over the smooth surface of the ceramic at the start of drilling, you can use ordinary masking tape. On top of the markings, stick two strips of tape crosswise. Then redraw the mark onto the duct tape to make it clearer. The masking tape will improve traction and prevent the drill from slipping to the side.
Step 4. Start drilling at low speed.
Tiles are drilled in non-impact mode .Start at the slowest speed and slowly dig deeper into the material. Many people make the mistake of thinking that increasing tool speed and pressure will increase productivity. In fact, you will only overheat the cutting edges and increase vibration. After you have passed the hard glassy coating, start to build up the speed gradually and apply constant, but not strong pressure.
Step 5. Remember to cool down the instrument.
To extend the life of the drill, the cutting ability of the bit and reduce the risk of cracks, accompany the drilling process with water cooling.If you are unable to water the drilling site continuously while you are working, stop from time to time and spray some water on the drill. Make sure that no water gets on the motor part of the drill. Another method you can use to keep the drill from overheating is to keep a damp sponge underneath it.
Step 6. Replace the drill when it hits the wall.
After the special drill for ceramics has completed its task, it should be replaced with another one suitable for the wall material – a drill for concrete, a drill for brick or wood.Its diameter should be slightly smaller so as not to damage the ceramics and not chip off the glaze. If necessary, you can turn on the shock mode, make sure that the nozzle does not deviate from the axis.
Step 7. Install the dowel or anchor bolt.
It remains to install a dowel or anchor in the holes obtained. When hammering them in with a hammer, apply light blows with maximum accuracy. Make sure that their spacer part is located only in the wall material. If it gets on the tile or mortar layer, there is a high probability of cracking of the tile at the time of anchoring the fasteners.Mark the drill with a marker to obtain the desired hole depth.
You are familiar with the theory of how to drill a tile. Let’s highlight the 5 most important points that will help you do your job efficiently:
- Understand the characteristics of your tile (hard or soft).
- Choose the right rig, it will increase your chances of success.
- Apply masking tape to prevent slipping.
- Drill the tile slowly in a non-impact mode.
- Cool the tooling periodically with water.
When drilling ceramic tiles, patience, perseverance, a steady hand and the right tools are essential. If you’ve never done this before, it’s best to experiment with the remaining clippings first. Skill comes with practice. With the acquisition of a certain experience, drilling a tile will no longer seem impossible to you.
Updated: 29.09.2020 13:25:19
E-mail: [email protected]
Phone: 8 (800) 333-21-68
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Which is better for drilling walls: hammer drill or hammer drill?
When you need to make holes in the wall, you take a regular drill.Only now, drilling concrete with it will turn out a little faster than picking it by hand with a knife. There are two tools for hard materials. So, an impact drill and a hammer drill – consider what kind of animals they are and which device is right for you.
Hits means shock
Depending on the power source, drills are divided into electrical, pneumatic and mechanical. In the article, we will consider only the first – in particular, those that operate from a 220 V network.
By type, drills are classified into hammerless and percussion drills.
For comparison with a hammer drill, we are interested in the latter, since they have similar operating modes. Such a device, in addition to a rotary one, makes a reciprocating motion, therefore it is suitable for working with hard materials, for example, with brickwork.
Compared to a non-impact tool, the tool is more productive and more expensive, but it is universal – the impact function can always be turned off.
To the delight of neighbors
Not everyone was holding a perforator in their hands, but the sound of this instrument behind the wall is familiar to everyone.Why do neighbors choose it for repairs?
The hammer drill is preferable when you are going to chase walls or gouge the floor, and if you drill holes, then deep, large diameter and in large quantities. The device penetrates hard materials, up to natural stone. Therefore, there is a suspicion that 50% of the neighbors in a past life were miners.
As with drills, we will consider a mains powered tool.
Fork or Spoon?
Although we titled our article “Impact Drill OR Rotary Hammer?”, The choice between these tools is not entirely appropriate.The devices solve similar, but still different tasks. The main characteristic of the drill is the rotation speed, and the hammer drill is the impact energy. Accordingly, their purpose is initially different. So the question is “hammer drill or hammer drill?” reminiscent of the question “fork or spoon?” Are just different things.
The younger sister of the hammer drill differs from it in the design
It produces a blow due to the interaction of two ratchets in contact with each other.This is, in fact, the friction of the gears. Such a mechanism provides shocks with a high frequency, but with a small amplitude.
Therefore, you have to push much harder on an impact drill than on a hammer drill. This leads to rapid blunting of the drill. Also, direct contact of the ratchets contributes to the failure of the tool – their teeth wear out quickly. If the parts are not replaced in time, the drill will cease to be a shock.
The hammer drill has an independent percussion mechanism
That is, a piston moves in a sealed cylinder inside the body, which hits a metal ram, which, in turn, transfers the impact energy to the striker.The latter also interacts with the snap. The process does not involve elements prone to wear, therefore such a tool is chosen for intensive work.
You get high amplitude and impact energy at the output. At the same time, you do not make unnecessary efforts.
Drill and hammer drill have different operating modes
The drill drills with and without impact and is designed for soft materials. If you need to make a hole in a brick wall to hang a painting, choose this tool.It is not easy to work with concrete, you will make tremendous efforts. Impact is only a drill function and is not available without rotating the drill.
A hammer drill can produce blows without rotation. It handles reinforced concrete and granite and is indispensable for chiselling. The shock mode is the main one for him.
Tool performance and conclusions
So, the hammer drill is preferable for bulk work with hard materials. This is drilling concrete, stone. Drilling in wood or metal will be inaccurate.The usual accessories for a hammer drill are still drills, crowns and chisels. Choose this tool if you are going to remove ceramic tiles from the walls, make a break, or lay channels for wiring and pipes.
A hammer drill is suitable for brick, foam concrete. Keep in mind that drilling will still be slow and time consuming. Best of all, the drill performs the functions for which it was created – it makes holes in wood and metal, plastic and tiles. When used with bits, it will also help with fasteners.
Choose a device that suits your needs and remember that the best tool in the house is its owner.
How to drill a concrete wall – a possible way out
Sooner or later, most people living in houses with concrete walls need to hang a cabinet, lamp, shelf or painting. At this point, the pressing question arises of how to drill a concrete wall.It is no secret that every home craftsman has encountered this problem at least once in his life, but not everyone knows how to solve it. Many courageously torture the drill and their own strength, but without achieving the desired result, they abandon everything until the next attempt to make a hole in the wall. But the drill eventually breaks, and the shelves remain standing somewhere in the corner of the room or gathering dust in the closet. But there are still options – you just need to know them and be able to use them.
What do the professionals advise?
Concrete structures are strong enough and difficult to drill.In addition, drills quite often come across crushed stone, which is part of the concrete mix, from which wall and ceiling slabs are formed.
Holes in concrete have to be made quite often, especially during:
- finishing works;
- furniture installations;
- air conditioner suspension;
- additional electrical wiring device;
- plumbing installation.
There are two ways to solve the problem of holes in a concrete wall:
- with an impact drill, or better with a hammer drill, with a victorious drill;
- diamond drilling.
It is worth noting that it is not possible to make a hole in a concrete wall with ordinary drills, therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to purchase drills with specially soldered plates made of high-strength pobedite alloy, which perfectly cope with concrete and brick. But for soft materials, it is not recommended to use them, since victorious drills do not cut them, but crumble them.
What will help the DIYer?
In domestic conditions, when it is necessary to make 2-3 holes in concrete, you can do with an ordinary drill, without the impact function.To do this, it is necessary, as the victorious drill is immersed in the body of the wall, from time to time to break the concrete with a strong metal pin (punch), which coincides in size with the diameter of the hole. It is used when the drill starts to “get stuck” in the wall. At this moment, a steel punch is inserted into the hole and they begin to beat on it with a hammer or a sledgehammer, trying to crush too dense areas and punch the hole deeper. In this case, the pin is slightly turned. Then the hammerless drill can again come into operation.
All the above steps are repeated one after the other until the hole increases to the required depth. This method is quite laborious and tedious, but quite acceptable for a pair of holes.
Alternatively, when drilling a hole in concrete, you can use universal diamond-coated drills. They are highly effective when working with metal, gravel and concrete. They can only be installed on a conventional electric drill, or on a tool with the vibration function disabled.
The drill must be handled with extreme care, otherwise it will fail too quickly. The advice given by professionals is that to avoid overheating the drill, it should be moistened with cold water from time to time.
How to choose a tool?
For more work, you need a hammer drill or drill with an impact function and drills with victorious tips. An impact drill combines a rotary motion with a reciprocating motion, which helps it do an excellent job with light concrete, and when asked how to drill a concrete wall, which is a load-bearing one, there is a simple answer – a perforator will be the best assistant, the main purpose of which is to punch concrete fences.There is one more difference:
- hammer drill is designed for drilling holes no more than 12 mm in diameter;
- The hammer drill is capable of drilling large holes.
The reinforcement trapped in the body of the concrete wall should be drilled with metal drills.
How are large holes drilled?
Professionals, constantly faced with the problem of drilling holes in concrete, use special equipment, which includes:
- powerful electric motor;
- drilling drive;
- diamond drill bits of various diameters;
- guide post fixed to the base.
Diamond drilling allows you to make holes of large diameter – up to 40 cm. The process is fast enough, efficient, without unnecessary dust and noise. Water is automatically supplied to the drilling site, which simultaneously cools the diamond core bit and flushes away the dust.
With diamond drilling, the holes are precise in shape and clear in outline, with a polished inner surface. They can be made in various enclosing structures at any angle to the horizon, and the possibility of cracks or chips in the concrete is completely excluded.Destruction occurs only at the location of the future hole.
Specialized firms are engaged in diamond drilling, so if you need to drill holes in concrete of large diameters, you can invite craftsmen with their own equipment. And it is not necessary to buy a diamond drilling machine specifically for this.
choice of drill, device and mistakes during work
Each of us has repeatedly faced the need to mount various objects on the walls that add variety to the interior, create coziness, or simply remind us of the pleasant moments of life.Most often, you have to fix lamps and sconces, paintings and photographs, mirrors and shelves on a concrete surface, install an air conditioner, or a TV. If, in the case of a small picture, or a photograph, you can do with driving a nail into the wall, then when the question is about more massive and heavy objects, the question of drilling holes arises. In order to avoid misunderstandings when working with concrete, for example, drill breakage, bluntness, it is worthwhile to competently prepare the partition, choose a quality tool and choose the right drill.
Choosing and working with a tool
When choosing a tool to drill a hole, you should understand that your job depends on it. A good drill accurately drills a concrete wall or other necessary material, simplifies the drilling process, while a bad one will take a lot of time, may not cope with the task, or complicate it. What to look for when choosing a drill:
- Is it possible to change the drilling speed? – This point is important, as the speed correction will ensure the drill’s accurate work, helping it not to damage the surface.
- Is it possible to hammer drill and adjust the depth? – hammer drilling can be applied to problem areas, softening them.
- Is it possible to hold the drill with both hands? – the drill is not an easy tool and therefore models that are equipped with handles should be preferred.
- Is the power of the tool sufficient for your job?
Having decided on the drill, you need to get the hang of holding it before starting work. To do this, take the drill in one hand, like a pistol, place the other hand on the tool handle (if it is not intended by the design, the hand is placed near the cartridge). It is necessary to hold the drill in the hands strictly horizontally, so that the hole does not work out with distortions and at the wrong angle. Wait until it reaches the ambient temperature before turning on the drill. Sudden temperature changes can cause condensation. If during work you decide to take a rest – disconnect the tool from the mains.
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It should be remembered that the wall is looser than the following layers.
Before you start drilling, you need to make sure that there are no wiring, pipes, electrical cables in the selected overlap location.A metal detector will help to cope with this task, since it reacts to non-ferrous metals, iron and steel.
If you ignore this condition, you can stumble upon fittings, damage the drill, or cables / pipes that were hidden in the ceiling. If this section satisfies all of the above requirements, then a point is marked on the wall, and then a small depression is made in it at a slow speed using a drill. It is also worth remembering that the surface of a concrete wall is looser than subsequent layers.
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Choosing a drill
This item can rightfully be considered the main one, since the quality of work and the safety of the drill itself, as well as the accuracy of work, depend on a properly selected drill. Today, there is a huge variety of different drills on the market: for working on wood, metal, concrete. The latter are distinguished by a triangular tip. For a concrete surface, it is best to use a carbide drill, for example, a victory drill. This type of drill crushes the material without tearing it, which is ideal for concrete slabs.
If during the process of drilling the wall the drill does not go forward, encountering a dense area, it is recommended to use a punch. After inserting a punch into the hole, it is hit with a hammer until it starts to move forward and softens the problem area. After that, you can continue drilling.
It should be noted that without a punch, a hammer drill can easily cope with this kind of difficulties, but it makes holes that exceed 13 mm in diameter. If you want to use multi-purpose drills when drilling, you need to remember that they require cooling, vibration-free and are only suitable for a conventional drill.
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A little about the device of the drill and the installation of the drill
Diagram of drilling a concrete wall.
The classic drill consists of a power cable, a button, a capacitor wire, a reverse, brushes and springs, an armature, a stator, a gearbox and a chuck, bearings, a key and fastening screws. A correctly inserted drill improves the quality of the drilling, and is able to secure it.
The first thing to check when starting to work with the drill is that there is no dirt on the drill itself. When cleaning drills, a rag will be an excellent assistant. If the drill is loose, there is a risk that it will fly out and injure the master. Accordingly, it is necessary to immerse the drill as much as possible into the chuck (all the way!).
Never try to “lengthen” the drill bit by not fully dipping it into the chuck!
It is important to ensure that the drill in the tool is fixed strictly along the axis.If this rule is not followed, drilling in concrete will be of poor quality, the shape of the hole may be unpredictable, and the cause of all these misunderstandings will be the elementary beating effect of the drill.
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Power selection for drills
The optimal power for working in concrete, in order to drill a hole, is considered to be a power of at least 600 W and 2500 rpm, but this figure needs to be adjusted depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations so as not to spoil the drill …As mentioned, concrete “crumbles” when we drill, and this does not require too much speed.
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Errors when working with a drill
- Clothing and gloves should be of adequate size.
Never try to hold the rotating chuck with your hand – there is a drill body for this. Failure to do so could result in injury to yourself. If you use gloves, do not take “with a margin”. Mismatched gloves can also get caught in the cartridge and cause injury.Overalls should not be loose – they can be rolled up or pinned down with oversleeves.
- Do not push hard when the drill is switched on – the cause will be a fall, as it will become more difficult for you to control balance. Also, you can break the drill. If the tool passes through a concrete wall, the injury that it can inflict on a person can be more than serious.
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Some useful tips
- If the hole is being prepared for a plastic dowel, the hole should be drilled a little more than the length of the dowel itself, so that the dust left after work does not interfere with the correct placement of the dowel.
- It is correct to start drilling at low speed – in this case, the drill will not jump over the surface, and when the hole reaches a sufficient depth, you can increase the speed, or switch the tool to hammer mode.
- Over time, the chuck begins to hold the drills worse and in this case they must be replaced. If you neglect this rule, then the quality of work will be much lower, in addition, you will put yourself at risk.
- When drilling, do not forget to wet the drill with cold water – this will help protect it from breakage, and the use of special glasses will help you avoid getting concrete dust in your eyes.
- By attaching a plastic cup to the drill, you will avoid such troubles as dust flying around the work surface, on your clothes, hair and face.
- If you work in accordance with the recommendations of the manufacturer of the drill, choose the right place for drilling in the wall, do not make the mistakes listed above and follow the safety precautions, then it will not be difficult for you to drill a concrete wall.
How to drill stainless steel
We will try to give simple guidelines for drilling stainless steels, of course these recommendations apply to all high carbon and carbon steels.
Very few basics in the beginning.
Before work it is necessary to select the cutting mode. What it is?
The elements of the cutting mode when drilling are 3 main parameters:
Cutting speed when drilling is conventionally the peripheral speed (speed of a point located on the surface) of the drill relative to the workpiece. (In simple terms: “how fast the drill rotates”, or the number of revolutions per minute depending on the diameter of the drill.) For example, the same cutting speed of 20m / min is achieved if the drill with a diameter of 1.0 rotates 6366 times per minute (rpm), and a drill with a diameter of 10.0 – 637 times per minute.
Feed – the amount of movement of the drill in the direction of the drilling axis per revolution in mm / rev (how fast the drill goes into the material).
The torque received by the drill during cutting (how much torsional load the drill experiences during operation).
These three parameters are mutually determining and their choice depends on:
-material of the drill itself;
-equipment on which the work is carried out and the type of cooling;
– other factors (surface roughness, dirtiness, etc.)e).
Features of drilling stainless steels
The main feature (difficulty) when working with stainless steel is associated with its ductility. As a result, there is a kind of sticking to the working surface of the drill, which leads to overheating of the tool and its failure.
Therefore it is important:
– provide heat dissipation by means of cooling;
– use drills that are more resistant to heat and allow better chip removal.
Cobalt drills are made of HSSCo high speed steel (M35) or similar designations (HSSCo5, HSSE, P6MK5), these drills are specially designed and recommended for drilling difficult-to-cut and stainless steels.
1. The composition of R6M5K5 contains 5% cobalt, which significantly increases the red hardness of the drill – the ability to maintain, when heated to red-hot temperatures, high hardness and wear resistance obtained as a result of heat treatment.
2.The drill is made using a more expensive grinding technology – i.e. the drill is not twisted into a spiral (like roller drills), and the grooves are formed on the grinder. As a result, there is no internal tension in the drill, and the surfaces are smooth, which significantly improves the chip yield (important when drilling stainless steel).
3. Apex angle of 135 degrees with a cruciform undercut. This is the angle between the working edges of the drill (ie, unlike conventional metal drills, cobalt drills look more “dull”).Such an angle reduces the area of the drill working area, which reduces the load on it, and the cruciform point sharpening reduces the dead area (in this place the drill has the greatest load) between the working edges.
How to drill ordinary stainless steel with a cobalt drill
If you can ensure the correct cutting conditions, i.e. if you have a machine on which you can precisely set the speed, feed and provide cooling, then simplifiedly choose for stainless steel:
Cutting speed V = 10 m / min is recommended by most manufacturers for working with stainless steels and is necessary for the selection of revolutions.
Then the revolutions can be calculated using the formula:
n = 3180 / D
for drill with a diameter of 1.0 – 3180 rpm,
for drill 5.0 already 636 rpm
Feed: 0.005-0.01d mm / n, where d is the drill diameter. This means that in one minute a drill with a diameter of 5 mm should drill a hole about 3 mm deep, and with a diameter of 10 mm is already 1.6 mm.
Cooling: It is recommended to use oleic acid as a coolant.
If you work with an ordinary drill in the “field”
For cooling, you can take olive oil (it contains 81% oleic acid) or sunflower oil – up to 40%, and if it is impossible to use liquid in any way, then you can use lard or fat – they contain up to 44% oleic acid.
Drill at minimum speed (100-200 rpm). If the drill does not allow you to set the speed, use the on / off method, and drilling “by inertia”.
Only the minimum feed (pressure on the drill), and try to ensure an even feed.
Very useful to know
1. It is a gross mistake to cool the drill by dipping it in water or something else (ie, drill “dry” and then dip it, etc.). By doing this, you instantly spoil the drill. Rapid heating and cooling leads to unpredictable consequences, a kind of uncontrolled tempering or hardening.