Cheap lax mesh. Type 4 Lacrosse Mesh: The Ultimate Performance Upgrade for Every Player

How does Type 4 lacrosse mesh improve player performance. What makes it the new standard in performance mesh. Why is Type 4 considered the most consistent and highest-performing mesh available.

Revolutionary Design: Lighter, Tighter, and Thinner

Type 4 lacrosse mesh represents a significant leap forward in performance technology. Its innovative design focuses on three key elements: weight reduction, improved tension, and a slimmer profile. These features combine to create a mesh that outperforms its predecessors in multiple aspects.

How does the lightweight design benefit players? The reduced weight of Type 4 mesh, coming in at under 20 grams, allows for increased head speed. This translates directly into more powerful shots, giving players a competitive edge on the field.

What about the tighter construction? The increased tension in Type 4 mesh provides players with enhanced ball control. This improved responsiveness allows for more precise passing and shooting, enabling players to execute their moves with greater accuracy.

The thinner profile of Type 4 mesh contributes to its overall performance by improving the feel of the ball in the pocket. This increased sensitivity allows players to develop a better connection with their stick, leading to more intuitive play and quicker reactions during game situations.

Enhanced Pocket Responsiveness for Superior Ball Control

One of the standout features of Type 4 mesh is its uniquely designed pocket structure. The central channel of the mesh is constructed to be slightly thinner than the outer rails. This innovative approach creates a pocket that adapts to the player’s movements and playstyle.

How does this responsive pocket benefit players? The dynamic nature of the Type 4 pocket allows it to react instantaneously to the player’s actions. This means the ball remains in the optimal position within the pocket, regardless of whether the player is cradling, passing, or shooting.

The improved ball retention provided by the responsive pocket translates to better overall control. Players can execute quick stick skills with greater confidence, knowing that the ball will remain securely in place until the moment of release.

Versatility Across Playing Styles

Another advantage of the Type 4 mesh’s responsive pocket is its adaptability to various playing styles. Whether you’re an attackman who relies on quick releases, a midfielder who needs consistent performance in both offense and defense, or a defenseman who requires secure ball control during clears, Type 4 mesh delivers.

Tri-Twist™ Technology: A Game-Changing Innovation

At the heart of Type 4 mesh’s superior performance lies its proprietary Tri-Twist™ technology. This revolutionary manufacturing process involves twisting three individual fibers together before weaving them into the mesh structure.

What benefits does Tri-Twist™ technology offer? The twisted fiber construction provides several key advantages:

• Increased feel and control
• Further weight reduction
• Enhanced shot speed
• Optimal texture and elasticity

How does the improved texture affect gameplay? The carefully calibrated surface of Type 4 mesh, achieved through Tri-Twist™ technology, offers the perfect balance of grip and release. This allows players to maintain precise control over the ball while still enabling smooth and fast releases when passing or shooting.

The elasticity provided by Tri-Twist™ technology contributes to the mesh’s overall responsiveness. This elasticity works in harmony with the pocket design to create a highly adaptive playing surface that enhances performance across all aspects of the game.

Unparalleled Consistency in Performance

One of the most significant advantages of Type 4 mesh is its consistency. Lacrosse players of all levels understand the importance of having equipment that performs reliably in various conditions and throughout the lifespan of the product.

How does Type 4 mesh maintain its consistency? The advanced manufacturing process, including the implementation of Tri-Twist™ technology, ensures that each piece of Type 4 mesh meets exacting standards. This consistency extends to several key areas:

1. Weather resistance: Type 4 mesh maintains its performance characteristics in wet or dry conditions.
2. Durability: The high-quality materials and construction techniques result in a mesh that retains its properties over extended use.
3. Break-in period: Type 4 mesh requires minimal break-in time, allowing players to experience optimal performance almost immediately.
4. Pocket memory: Once strung and adjusted, Type 4 mesh holds its shape exceptionally well, reducing the need for frequent readjustments.

Why is consistency so crucial for players? Reliable performance allows players to focus on their game without worrying about equipment variability. This consistency builds confidence and enables players to develop muscle memory and fine-tune their skills without the variable of inconsistent equipment.

The Science Behind Type 4: Years of Research and Development

The creation of Type 4 mesh was not an overnight process. It represents the culmination of over two years of intensive research, development, and testing. This long-term commitment to innovation has resulted in a product that pushes the boundaries of what’s possible in lacrosse mesh technology.

What went into the development of Type 4 mesh? The process involved a complete overhaul of traditional manufacturing techniques. The team behind Type 4 rebuilt their production methods from the ground up, incorporating cutting-edge materials science and advanced engineering principles.

Who was instrumental in the creation of Type 4 mesh? Kit Smith, the Head of Mesh Development, played a crucial role in bringing Type 4 to life. His expertise and vision guided the project through its various stages, from concept to final product.

Rigorous Testing and Refinement

Throughout its development, Type 4 mesh underwent extensive testing to ensure it met the highest standards of performance and durability. This testing process involved:

• Laboratory analysis of material properties
• Simulated weather and wear testing
• Feedback from amateur and professional players
• Comparative studies against existing mesh products

How did this testing contribute to the final product? The iterative process of testing and refinement allowed the development team to identify and address potential weaknesses, optimize performance characteristics, and validate the benefits of new technologies like Tri-Twist™.

Performance Benefits Across All Player Positions

While some lacrosse equipment is specialized for certain positions, Type 4 mesh offers performance benefits to players across the field. Its versatile design makes it an excellent choice for attackmen, midfielders, and defensemen alike.

How does Type 4 mesh benefit attackmen? The lightweight construction and responsive pocket allow for quick, accurate shots and passes. The improved feel helps attackmen maintain ball control during dodges and in tight spaces around the crease.

What advantages does Type 4 offer midfielders? The consistency and adaptability of Type 4 mesh make it ideal for midfielders who need to transition quickly between offense and defense. The improved shot speed can be particularly beneficial for outside shooters.

How can defensemen benefit from Type 4 mesh? The enhanced ball control and pocket responsiveness aid in secure catches during clears. The mesh’s consistency in various weather conditions is also particularly valuable for defensemen who need reliable performance throughout long possessions.

The Future of Lacrosse Mesh Technology

With the introduction of Type 4 mesh, the bar for performance lacrosse mesh has been significantly raised. This breakthrough product not only offers immediate benefits to players but also paves the way for future innovations in the field.

What potential advancements might we see in lacrosse mesh technology? Building on the success of Type 4, future developments could include:

• Even lighter materials for further improved shot speed
• Advanced fiber technologies for enhanced durability
• Smart materials that adapt to playing conditions in real-time
• Customizable mesh properties to match individual playing styles

How might these advancements impact the sport of lacrosse? As mesh technology continues to evolve, players at all levels may see improvements in their performance metrics. This could lead to faster-paced games, more accurate shooting, and potentially even new styles of play that take advantage of these technological advancements.

The Role of Player Feedback in Future Development

The creation of Type 4 mesh relied heavily on input from players and coaches. This collaborative approach to product development is likely to continue, ensuring that future innovations in lacrosse mesh technology address the real-world needs and desires of the playing community.

How can players contribute to the evolution of lacrosse mesh? Many manufacturers, including the creators of Type 4, actively seek feedback from players at all levels. By sharing their experiences and suggestions, players can play a direct role in shaping the future of the sport’s equipment.

Investing in Performance: The Value Proposition of Type 4 Mesh

While Type 4 mesh represents the pinnacle of current lacrosse mesh technology, it’s natural for players and parents to consider the cost-benefit ratio of investing in top-tier equipment.

Is the performance improvement of Type 4 mesh worth the investment? For many players, the answer is a resounding yes. The combination of improved shot speed, enhanced ball control, and consistent performance can have a significant impact on a player’s game.

How does Type 4 mesh compare to more budget-friendly options? While there are certainly less expensive mesh products available, Type 4 offers several advantages that can justify its price point:

• Longer lifespan due to superior durability
• Consistent performance that reduces the need for frequent replacements
• Potential for improved on-field performance that can be valuable for competitive players
• Reduced break-in time, allowing for immediate optimal performance

For serious players looking to maximize their potential, the benefits of Type 4 mesh can far outweigh the initial investment. However, it’s important for each player to consider their individual needs, skill level, and budget when making equipment decisions.

Long-Term Cost Considerations

When evaluating the cost of Type 4 mesh, it’s crucial to consider the long-term value. The durability and consistency of Type 4 mesh mean that players may need to replace their mesh less frequently than with lower-quality alternatives.

How does this affect the overall cost of ownership? While the upfront cost of Type 4 mesh may be higher, its longevity can result in lower total expenses over time. Additionally, the consistent performance means players won’t need to purchase multiple types of mesh for different weather conditions or playing situations.

Type 4 · The Most Consistent, Highest-Performing Mesh for Every Player

The new standard for performance lacrosse mesh. Designed to be lighter, tighter, and thinner, Type 4 delivers faster shots, more control, and better feel.

A more responsive pocket.

The channel of Type 4 has a slightly thinner construction than the outer rails. This creates a pocket that reacts to your play to keep the ball right where you want it.

Faster shots.

At under 20 grams, Type 4 is our thinnest and lightest mesh yet. It forms a versatile, responsive pocket for better ball control and increases head speed for more powerful shots.

Generations of performance.

We spent over 2 years working on Type 4, rebuilding our manufacturing from the ground up. The result is the most advanced and highest-performing lacrosse mesh money can buy.

How It’s Made.

Take a look behind the scenes with our Head of Mesh Development, Kit Smith, as he shows you some of what goes into making Type 4 Performance Lacrosse Mesh.

The Man Behind the Mesh.

It’s been 2 years in the making, but the next generation of performance mesh is finally here.

Introducing Tri-Twist™ technology.

Twisting three individual fibers before weaving them together increases feel and control, reduces weight, and gives you faster shots.

Unmatched control.

Tri-Twist technology gives Type 4 the perfect amount of texture and elasticity. Experience more feel and control than ever before.

Durability guaranteed.

If your lacrosse mesh breaks within its warranty period, we will replace it for free.

Covered

• Any rip or tear.
• Manufacturing defects.
• Anything that would deem the mesh unplayable or significantly affect performance.

Not Covered

• Any minor fray.
• Intentional alterations (cutting, dyeing, waxing) or deliberate misuse.
• Normal wear and tear.
• Purchases from unauthorized dealers.

Photo documentation and valid proof of purchase are required for a full warranty credit.

Warranty replacements have a limited warranty that covers 50% of their retail value.

Type 3 · Semi-soft and semi-hard lacrosse mesh

Twistex™ gives you more.

Type 3 lacrosse mesh features our advanced Twistex™ technology, designed to give you more accuracy, more control, and more speed.

Twistex™ Technology

Twistex™ is our twisted yarn technology, designed to give you more control, more speed, more consistency. Just more.

More control.

Twistex™ technology increases elasticity and texture in the yarns. This gives our Type 3 lacrosse mesh more stretch and feel for better control.

More accuracy.

Adding twist to the yarns before they are knit creates a more compact construction with a rigid backbone for consistent performance.

More speed.

Twistex™ technology allows us to make our Type 3 lacrosse mesh 15% thinner and lighter than Type 2 while maintaining durability and a rigid backbone for your pocket.

More feel.

Twistex™ increases texture that improves the grip and feel of your lacrosse pocket.

More snap.

Twisted yarns provide a controlled stretch that loads the ball in the channel for a snappier release.

More precise.

Each twist, yarn, and piece is precisely controlled to make sure that your lacrosse pocket strings up and performs the same every time.

Durability guaranteed.

If your lacrosse mesh breaks within its warranty period, we will replace it for free.

Covered

• Any rip or tear.
• Manufacturing defects.
• Anything that would deem the mesh unplayable or significantly affect performance.

Not Covered

• Any minor fray.
• Intentional alterations (cutting, dyeing, waxing) or deliberate misuse.
• Normal wear and tear.
• Purchases from unauthorized dealers.

Photo documentation and valid proof of purchase are required for a full warranty credit.

Warranty replacements have a limited warranty that covers 50% of their retail value.

JetBlue Mint: The New Business-Class Suites Are Like a Studio Apartment in the Sky

JetBlue has unveiled its redesigned Mint business-class cabin, and every seat is a completely private suite with doors that close.

The new JetBlue Mint cabin with 24 suites will roll out later this year on the airline’s much-anticipated flights to London from New York and Boston, which are set to launch this summer. A smaller version with 16 suites will also be added on select routes between New York and Los Angeles later in 2021.

This is the first-ever redesign of the budget airline’s premium cabin, which launched in 2014 and has been beloved by fliers ever since for its spacious seats, collaborations with trendy restaurants and cosmetic brands, and—most of all—its lower fares compared to business-class tickets on legacy carriers. 

Of the JetBlue Mint cabin’s 24 suites, two are extra-large Mint Studio suites that can accommodate two passengers at cruising altitude. (The new products are an extension of the four suites that were already available in current JetBlue Mint cabins.) In addition to the fully closing doors, each redesigned Mint suite has lie-flat seats that are made with supportive memory foam from Tuft & Needle and upholstered in buttery soft vegan leather, as well as a 17-inch entertainment screen that pivots and tilts for an optimal viewing angle.

The new JetBlue Mint suites have sliding doors that close for maximum privacy.

Courtesy JetBlue

Each suite has homey touches like sconces with mood lighting, adjustable reading lights, and even a do-not-disturb light that makes the space feel like your own hotel room. There’s plenty of storage, too, including a mesh shoe cubby, space to stow a bag or personal item, and even a laptop drawer. Among the other passenger-friendly features are a wireless charging station, two AC/USB outlets, and a phone holder.

Design-minded fliers won’t be disappointed, as JetBlue has added finishes like wood-accented tray tables, faux concrete lampshades, and gray flannel dividers for added warmth and texture.

Mint Studio 

As the name suggests, the two extra-large Mint Studios were designed to evoke a studio apartment. The Mint Studio offers the most space—22.7 square feet—in a premium experience from any U.S. airline, according to JetBlue.

The Mint Studio has room for a guest passenger.

Courtesy JetBlue

Terminal Tackle Eagle Claw 084-8 Classic Offset Ringed Eye Bronze 100 Pack Size 8 Fishing Hooks Sporting Goods

Terminal Tackle Eagle Claw 084-8 Classic Offset Ringed Eye Bronze 100 Pack Size 8 Fishing Hooks Sporting Goods

1. Home
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6. Eagle Claw 084-8 Classic Offset Ringed Eye Bronze 100 Pack Size 8 Fishing Hooks

Claw 084-8 Classic Offset Ringed Eye Bronze 100 Pack Size 8 Fishing Hooks Eagle, Free shipping for many products,Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Eagle Claw 084-8 Classic Offset Ringed Eye Bronze 100 Pack Size 8 Fishing Hooks at the best online prices at ,Find your favorite product,As one of the online sales mall,Absolutely FREE samples and next day delivery. Offset Ringed Eye Bronze 100 Pack Size 8 Fishing Hooks Eagle Claw 084-8 Classic, Eagle Claw 084-8 Classic Offset Ringed Eye Bronze 100 Pack Size 8 Fishing Hooks.

Condition:: New: A brand-new, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag, Free shipping for many products. where packaging is applicable, See the seller’s listing for full details, Size: : 8: Part Type: : Not Available. unless the item is handmade or was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, MPN: : 084-8: UPC: : 047708024082. undamaged item in its original packaging, See all condition definitions : Brand: : Eagle Claw. Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store. unused, unopened, Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Eagle Claw 084-8 Classic Offset Ringed Eye Bronze 100 Pack Size 8 Fishing Hooks at the best online prices at.

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Eagle Claw 084-8 Classic Offset Ringed Eye Bronze 100 Pack Size 8 Fishing Hooks

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Eagle Claw 084-8 Classic Offset Ringed Eye Bronze 100 Pack Size 8 Fishing Hooks

Eagle Claw 084-8 Classic Offset Ringed Eye Bronze 100 Pack Size 8 Fishing Hooks

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Eagle Claw 084-8 Classic Offset Ringed Eye Bronze 100 Pack Size 8 Fishing Hooks

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Mesh fences – country fencing. Cheap and reliable. We will quickly and efficiently make and assemble fences from mesh

If
you were lucky enough to acquire a cozy summer cottage, the only problem
which is the absence of any obstacle, then there is no need to despair.
The modern industry has taken care of ensuring the safety of your
housing. And any fences from the mesh of your choice will serve as its guarantor.
Ask why exactly from the grid?
The answer is simple – in the case of installing such a fence
at the dacha you get a lot of benefits, which consist in excellent conductivity
sunlight, which is especially necessary for growing up at your summer cottage
plot to plants.

But
do not think that this type of fencing is suitable only for summer cottages
or any buildings located on the outskirts. Of course not. Fence
from the mesh, you can enclose a warehouse of materials, agricultural land or
any other object, everything depends only on your needs and imagination.

What
Well, we figured out the options for using this fence, now let’s move on to
the practical part, namely the manufacture and installation of the fence.Here you can go one of two ways: either install the fence yourself, or
turn to professionals who will take care of all the worries. Despite
the fact that mesh fences are quite simple in design, their installation
still contains some nuances, so seek help from
experts will not be ashamed. But, on the other hand, having mounted the fence
on your own, you will have a legitimate reason to be proud.

Let’s move on
directly to the manufacture and installation of the fence.To install it, you will need pillars and, of course, the mesh itself. As pillars you can
use various metal pipes, but most often for this purpose
metal pipes 60x30mm are used. To avoid corrosion of their posts
it is necessary to cover it with paint or a special primer and then mesh fences will serve you for many years. TO
besides, it is not at all necessary to use new pipes for the pillars – it is quite
used ones will also work, you just need to pay attention to them
state.After choosing the material for the pillars, you need to go to marking them
installation. When marking, you need to mark the places for the posts so that
the distance between them did not exceed three meters, otherwise the mesh will sag. Now about the depth of the posts.
It is enough to dig or drill holes for them with a depth of 90 centimeters.
In the event that your fence is from
the mesh will rise by more than two meters – the depth of the holes needs to be increased
up to 120 centimeters.

After
all the necessary preparations, you can proceed to aligning the posts with the grid.To ensure sufficient
fence stability on loose
earth, this very ground under the pillars must be well tamped, and in some
cases also pour concrete
solution. But in the event that you install the pillars in clay
soils, then the use of cement mortar can be avoided, since such
types of soils perfectly keep the pillars in a strictly vertical position. To that
however, pouring with concrete may not be of the best service. The fact is that
mesh fences in winter are exposed to low temperatures and
water solidified between clay and mortar will push out the columns
and concrete, and in some cases this can lead to a complete fall of the fence.

After the cement has set, you can start stretching the mesh. To do this, you need to strengthen on
posts above and below wire or reinforcement. Then using special
fastenings, the mesh is stretched. From above
poles are installed with plastic plugs for pipes. This is done to prevent
moisture in the pillars. And treated with paint or primer, such a fence will retain its appearance and
will stand for many years.

fix plaster – Construction and renovation

Glass mesh for plaster: from selection to fixing

Due to its peculiarities, the plaster composition does not always fit perfectly on the surface.For its strong fixation, it is customary to use a special fiberglass mesh. Unlike its counterparts, fiberglass mesh has many advantages. Those who decide to use this material when carrying out finishing work should know how to choose and fix it correctly.

Fiberglass mesh is designed to reinforce the plaster layer and has increased resistance to alkali. In addition, it perfectly withstands high bursting loads and temperature drops.The use of fiberglass mesh significantly improves the quality of the plaster layer and prolongs the life of the finished coating (examples of working with fiberglass mesh can be seen in the photo).

Characteristics

Today, fiberglass mesh has become quite popular in the building material market. This is due to its chemical neutrality and durability. Also, this option has excellent technical characteristics, which include:

• resistance to aggressive environment;
• excellent withstand lateral and longitudinal loads;
• excellent adhesion to binders and mineral mixtures;
• Ability to improve the characteristics of the reinforced surface.

The choice of reinforcing material

When choosing a fiberglass mesh, it is very important to first of all pay attention to the price. In this case, you should not choose the most inexpensive offers, since a high-quality item will not be cheap. Besides the price, it is important to choose the right manufacturer. Modern builders recommend giving preference to foreign manufacturers.

It is important to determine in advance the required level of resistance to alkali, and for this you will need to preview the table in which the standard values ​​of this parameter are indicated.If the glass mesh label contains values ​​that are equal to the data in the table, then you can not be afraid and purchase this particular option.

In the event that the level of alkali resistance does not meet building codes, then the fiberglass reinforcing material can dissolve in the plaster and leave behind voids. This situation will bring a lot of trouble in the future and will significantly reduce the operational life of the wall covering (in the photo there is a finished surface made using fiberglass mesh).

Fiberglass mesh installation

Fiberglass mesh fastening consists of several stages. Before starting work, you need to watch a video tutorial and take into account that the plaster layer should not be less than 3 mm and exceed 30 mm. Before installing the reinforcing material, the mesh is cut to the size of the canvas, which depends on how the reinforcement will be located – along or across the surface.

After preparatory measures, a starting layer of finishing compound must be applied to the surface, on top of which a fiberglass mesh is laid.After that, the reinforcement is pressed into the starting layer, and the finishing plaster is applied on top. In some cases, it is recommended to fix the mesh with dowels (along the edges of the canvas). This is necessary to prevent delamination of the finishing material.

1. Before starting work, markings should be made along which the mesh will be attached.
2. The mesh is overlapped.

1. Apply a finishing layer of plaster in the middle of the mesh and spread evenly around the edges.
2. The reinforced fiberglass mesh should be laid over the freshly applied starter plaster layer.

How to fix plaster mesh: purpose, installation of metal mesh and fiberglass base

Plastering vertical surfaces has been the best way to level walls for many years. The application of plaster mortar is still widely used both for exterior and interior decoration of buildings, not only for leveling, but also for improving the moisture-proof, heat-insulating and aesthetic qualities of the wall surface.

For good adhesion of the mortar to the material of the wall surface, as well as to protect the dried plaster from cracking and shedding when applying the mortar, it is desirable, and in some cases obligatory, the use of a reinforcing mesh for finishing work.

Plastering using metal mesh.

Reinforcement of plaster

This article will discuss the purpose, methods of application and types of plaster nets that are used to reinforce the leveling mortar applied to wall surfaces.

In addition, the reader will be offered step-by-step instructions on how to fix the plaster mesh on the surface of walls made of various building materials.

The photo shows a scheme for finishing a concrete wall.

Purpose of the plaster mesh

The main purpose of the reinforcing mesh is to create a relief base on the wall surface to securely fix the leveling layer of the plaster mortar.In addition, the ribbed cellular structure contributes to the reliable binding of the solution particles to each other, while forming a single monolithic surface.

When doing plastering work with your own hands, the use of a reinforcing mesh is recommended for the following reasons:

• Simple and quick application of the solution allows you to plaster walls without even having any skills in this type of work.
• The reliable fixation of the mortar ensures high strength and durability of the coating.
• Monolithic construction and elasticity of the plaster layer after drying allows avoiding peeling, peeling and cracking of the surface as a result of natural shrinkage of the building or exposure to atmospheric factors.
• The relief structure of the base provides a strong adhesion of the mortar to the surface of walls made of any building materials.

Plastering on fiberglass reinforcement base.

Reinforcing base

Currently, there are many different types of reinforcing materials, each of which is intended for use under certain conditions.For plastering walls at home, two types of materials are most suitable: metal and fiberglass reinforcing nets for plaster with small cells. They are suitable for both outdoor use and indoor use.

It is quite easy to decide on the choice of the required material. If the wall is sufficiently flat and does not have deep cracks, dips and other damage, as well as significant deviations from the geometric dimensions, and to correct them, the thickness of the leveling layer will not exceed 30 mm, it is necessary to use a reinforcing mesh based on fiberglass.

Metal plaster mesh should be used when finishing a rough wall made of brick, without grout or rough concrete, and also if its surface has pronounced construction defects and deviations from geometric dimensions. The thickness of the leveling mortar in such cases can be 20-50 mm.

Zinc coated expanded metal mesh.

Advice! When buying a metal mesh, you should give preference to products with a zinc coating.Its price can be significantly higher than the cost of conventional steel, but it is characterized by increased durability and can be used for both indoor and outdoor work.

Installation of metal mesh

For the installation of a metal reinforcing base, self-tapping screws, construction dowels and galvanized mounting tape must be used.

1. Before attaching the mesh under the plaster, it must be cut from the roll to the size of the wall and degreased by wiping with a cloth soaked in solvent or acetone.
2. Start from the ceiling, securing the upper edge of the panel along its entire length with self-tapping screws, placing the cut pieces of mounting tape under the caps. For these purposes, widened washers can be used, but their cost is much higher than the cost of mounting tape.
3. Pre-drill holes in concrete and brick walls and install plastic dowels.
4. Thus, it is necessary to fix the panels on the entire surface of the wall, installing the fasteners in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 400-500 mm.
5. At the joints, the panels should overlap each other with an overlap of 80-100 mm.

Fastening to masonry using a self-tapping screw with a widened washer.

Advice! To speed up the work, instead of self-tapping screws, it is more convenient to use dowel-nails, which are installed with several hammer blows.

Fastening the fiberglass reinforcement base

As for how to attach the fiberglass plaster mesh, it only needs to be fixed in several places, first along the top edge, and then along the entire perimeter, to the wall with self-tapping screws.Additional fixation, as a rule, is not required, since later, when the plaster is applied, it will be securely fixed in the thickness of the leveling layer.

It should be noted that it is more convenient to unwind the rolls and fasten the panels along the wall parallel to the floor plane, and it is better to start installation from any upper corner of the room. At the joints, it is also necessary to provide for a small overlap of the panels.

You also need to know that the greatest strength of the leveling coating is achieved when using solid mesh panels along the entire length of the room, so you need to try to cut it so as not to cut it into small separate pieces.

Plastering the surface using a fiberglass backing.

Conclusion

After reading this article, we can conclude that the installation of a reinforcing mesh is not difficult, but at the same time very useful, which will help to significantly improve the quality of the coating and facilitate the plastering work.

You can learn more about this by watching the video in this article or reading related articles in this section.

Fix plaster

Message Goshia “18 Apr 2013, 21:55

Re: Can you fix loose plaster?

Message Teren “Apr 19, 2013, 18:27

Re: Is it possible to fix the lost plaster?

Message Ludokk “Apr 19, 2013, 20:39

Re: Is it possible to fix loose plaster?

Message Goshia »Apr 19, 2013, 10:35 pm

Re: Is it possible to fix loose plaster?

Message kolyavas18 »01 May 2013, 08:20

Re: Is it possible to fix loose plaster?

Message serenada »13 May 2013, 07:06

Re: Can the loose plaster be fixed?

Message serge »13 May 2013, 07:22

Fastening screws in plaster

There is an apartment in a 45-year-old building.Accordingly, the walls are either a board made of boards, on top of which a layer of plaster is applied on the shingle approximately from 4 to 8 cm (partitions), or a brick, on top of which the same layer of plaster is again from 4 to 8 cm (main walls).

Is there a universal recipe for fixing screws in such walls?
It is necessary to make mezzanines along the ceiling, the corner profile is planned to be fixed to the wall with screws 100-120 mm long.

There are chemical dowels with ampoules for loose surfaces. It will be cheaper to find a screwdriver longer.

zer wrote:
there are chemical dowels with ampoules for loose surfaces.

About “loose surfaces” is not in any description of chemical anchors that I came across. Mentioned concrete, brick, aerated concrete. There are compositions for sandstone as well. Well, maybe it can be equated in properties to plaster and push the studs onto such a composition into the main wall. But what about the partitions? For a tree, I did not come across a single chemical dowel.

zer wrote:
It will be cheaper to find a longer screw.

Can you give me more details, what did you mean?

Try not to use plastic dowels, but in the old fashioned way – wooden chopiki. I cannot assess the degree of your problems, but in due time, in a similar situation, it saved me. Chopy put in holes at 12 depths of 150 from aspen. Over time, it expands and keeps it normally. The screws must be driven into it, at least 6-ki. Bursting it only with time.

You can try to install plastic dowels on PVA. It helped me in a similar situation.

Mals wrote:
and the old-fashioned wooden chopiki.

Your chopiki will fall out with a bang.
If there is a plaster and a brick under it, there is one “popular” way.
We drill (drill) a hole of the required depth with a margin of 6-8 mm for the diameter of the screw used.
Copper / soft steel wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm or more is wound onto the screw along the entire length along the thread guide grooves, the ends of which are then connected by twisting. We get a kind of “metal” dowel. We wet the hole in the wall with water, apply alabaster / rotband diluted with water into it and onto the screw with wire, put the screw into the hole, the hat should stick out slightly less than the thickness of the part that will need to be fixed on the wall.After the solution has solidified, the screw can be easily unscrewed, put the part, screw it on.
In principle, it is possible in the same way into the wall “plaster / wood”, but there already the wire must be twisted only by the length of the screw thread, which will be in the plaster, and the beginning of the thread is wrapped directly into the wood when installed on the mortar, and accordingly the hole in the wall must be drilled the thickness of the plaster.

The method of fastening given by you above, I know. Approximately using this technology, I fastened screws for kitchen shelves.This method, in principle, is acceptable, but only when you need to hang something on 1-2 screws. The fact is that, firstly, it is very laborious (you can survive a few screws, but not a few dozen), and secondly, it is difficult to achieve (for me, at least) that after all the manipulations the center of the screw is exactly in the intended place, since the plaster on the surface of the wall crumbles much more than in depth.
And I need to fix a metal profile along a wall three or four meters long.
Ie the technology is assumed as follows – an angular profile is taken, on one side, about ten holes for fasteners are planned and drilled. Next, the profile is applied to the wall and holes are marked on it. Then nests for screws are prepared or studs are attached to the wall. If other technologies are possible, I will be happy to familiarize myself with it – so far nothing else comes to my mind.

Is the back of the wall available? If yes, then a hairpin through and through.

vadH wrote:
it is difficult to achieve (for me, at least) that after all the manipulations the center of the screw is exactly in the intended place

In principle, you can use a template rail with holes for screws made of plywood of suitable thickness
First on it screws are installed in the wall, then holes are drilled along it in the corner

zvolki wrote:
Is the reverse side of the wall available? If yes, then a hairpin through and through.

Two walls of four are available.
Is the stud going to be fixed to the back of the wall? How then to hide this beauty in the room?

aka wrote:
In principle, you can use a template rail with holes for screws

It is even possible not from plywood. But, again, I will outline the answers according to the template, but in reality they will go away from the template and, again, the task turns into an almost insoluble task – using ready-made sockets in the wall or protruding studs to outline holes on the profile.

aka wrote:
Your chopiki will fall out with a bang.

Ekarny babay have been hanging 80kg speakers for 12 years and will fall out tomorrow? Horror! Immediately remove

PS It was not done from the bulldozer. A school trudovik (not a bad master) advised me.

vadH wrote:
I will outline the answers according to the template, but in reality they will go away from the template

To put the screws into the wall through the template too
It’s boring, of course, but if you really need to.

vadH wrote:
It is necessary to make mezzanines along the ceiling

If the configuration of the room allows, you can see the option of attaching the corners to the beams between the walls

2vadH IMHO, plaster, and even at such a venerable age, is the most unreliable element in your system.In general terms, I would remove it to the wall at the attachment points, screw it onto screws (in wood) or on screws + dowels (brick) pieces of wooden blocks, then cover them with at least the same rotband flush with the wall, and then fix the profile to these bars with ordinary screws. It is imperative to prime the old plaster in front of the rotband.

I saw it in the store, but I myself have never used self-tapping screws for concrete under them, a hole is drilled slightly less than their diameter and then screwed without plugs.
Try it may suit your purpose.

The little reel wrote:
Try it may suit your purposes

Unreasonably expensive and simply useless.

It is quite possible to drive ordinary anchors into a brick, and wood grouses into a tree.

vadH wrote:
I will outline the answers according to the template

Attach to the first anchor / wood grouse – and then drill according to the template and immediately attach through and through.

In my opinion the best as sansan21 advised (in message 13).
There are also such studs with a curved end, with a shoulder in the front, with a large-diameter washer in the front and, most importantly, with a special nut at the end, which is held inside two spring-loaded metal struts. If you insert such pins into drilled holes with a diameter of such a size that you can only push the closed spacers, then tightening (winding) the hairpin inward onto the nut, you seem to open these spacers inside the hole (the spring tends to open them and you first need to help it open a little inside).This is a good option for those who are in a hurry and the mount is not bad.

aka wrote:
If the configuration of the room allows, you can see the option of attaching the corners to the beams between the walls

Yes, perhaps this option could be considered if both walls were plaster plus brick. Unfortunately, the opposite walls are different, both in the hallway and in the hallway.

sansan21 wrote:
In general terms – I would remove it to the wall in the places of attachment, screw it onto screws (in wood) or on screws + dowels (brick) pieces of wooden blocks, then cover them at least with the same rotband flush with the wall, and then he fixed the profile to these bars with ordinary screws.

I’m afraid that the floor of the wall will have to be turned – the rest of the plaster will fall off from such works. Then, the thickness of the plaster layer is different everywhere – it may turn out that you will have to use a thin bar, to which you cannot attach the profile. And thirdly, one of the walls (which is wood plus plaster) is common with the neighboring apartment and, according to my estimates, with a total thickness of no more than 15 cm, I am afraid that the fasteners that will attach the bars to the tree will pop out to the neighbors.

VTB! wrote:
It is quite possible to drive ordinary anchors into a brick, and wood grouses into a tree.
Attach to the first anchor / wood grouse – and then drill according to the template and immediately attach through and through.

This is exactly what I would have done if it had not been for a thick layer of plaster on top of brick or wood.
It complicates everything. Plaster on the wall surface crumbles – the screw is not fixed to the wall surface and sways.
That is, if you first fix the screw (covering, for example, with cement a hole on the surface of the wall around the screw), and then hang something on it, then everything is fine.But if you fix it right away, it may not work well.

But, apparently, there are no other options. For myself, for now, I decided that the wood-plaster would have to be fixed into the wall – immediately with a screw through and through. And in the brick-plaster wall, I will first fix the studs (in a pre-drilled hole of a larger diameter) on the chemical composition or simply on cement, and on them I will already hang the profile.

Lesson 06. How to fix plaster mesh

We continue the theme of plastering walls. Today is the sixth lesson, and we have to learn what a plaster mesh is, why it is needed and why it needs to be fixed to the wall even before the lighthouses.

The fact is that plaster is an excellent material for aligning our curved wall. But in addition to getting a flat and smooth surface, it is necessary to make the wall strong and reliable. And the plaster mesh will help us with this.

Types of plaster mesh

There is a sufficient variety of it in nature, but for home purposes, especially for beginners in renovation, it is enough to have an idea of ​​the 2 main types of plaster mesh:

• metal plaster mesh;
• glass cloth (plastic) plaster mesh

Below, in the picture, you can just see these 2 types of mesh:

Which one to choose for working with a wall?

You need to look at the wall carefully.If, even after the failure of large bumps, your wall is still very uneven and the drops reach more than 5 cm, then it is wiser to fix a metal mesh in such places (holes or depressions). If the wall is bumpy, but the bulges and concavities along the wall fluctuate within 2-3 cm, then it is enough to use a fiberglass mesh.

Now let’s talk about the mount. The mesh must be fastened over the entire area of ​​the wall. The net is usually sold in rolls. You unwind the roll and, like the wallpaper that you glue from the ceiling to the floor with paper sheets, here you are, on the contrary, horizontally from one edge of the wall to the other, fasten the first strip under the ceiling.Then below, under the first piece, roll out the next one. For a room height of 3 meters, you need to fix 3 such strips.

Glass fabric plaster mesh

Fastening glass fabric plaster mesh is much easier than metal. And that’s why. It is enough to hang the fiberglass mesh on a few self-tapping screws, and it will simply hang under its own weight. Naturally, the self-tapping screws should be screwed into the wall to the very caps.

I specially showed you the lighthouse here, so that you understand why you need to first fix the grid, and then the lighthouse.The wall will be much stronger if the mesh that makes up the base of the future plaster is a single monolithic piece. That is, it is better to first roll out the mesh in a single piece along the wall, and then put the beacons, rather than put the beacons, and then cut the mesh with pieces from one beacon to another.

Why is it enough to hang the net on self-tapping screws under its own weight? Because when you dilute the plaster solution and throw it onto the wall, the plaster slaps will seal the mesh directly to the concrete.Since the plaster sets quickly enough, the mesh will reliably adhere to the concrete. And due to the fact that the mesh is a single monolithic piece, the entire plane of the plaster being thrown will acquire sufficient strength.

Metal plaster mesh

Metal plaster mesh is another matter. It is more capricious, and it will not be possible to fix it under its own weight. Among other things, the mesh cells are large enough and larger than the screw cap. To secure it, I would like to recommend that you use the mounting tape, which is ideal for this.And to make the tape easy to cut, you will need special scissors for metal.

We take scissors and cut slices of the mounting tape, and then fix the metal plaster mesh using such slices as shown in the figure: and did not sag!

Important notes

We were carried away by the plaster mesh before installing the beacons, but there are additional work that needs to be done even before the plaster mesh is fixed.Don’t you guess?

Remember how Lesson 4 ended? You and I knocked down the largest bumps on the wall. But at the same time, our wall became very dirty. And if we stretch a plaster mesh over this dirty wall and begin to throw plaster, it will immediately fall off, so:

1. our wall. The wall must be clean. After the dirt is removed and the moisture has dried, we dilute the primer and prime the wall once, and after 2 hours a second time.If you have forgotten how to do this, take a look at the article: How to primer walls in an apartment.
2. When attaching any of the nets, try to use self-tapping screws as short as possible. Why? Because we remember that you cannot wrap a self-tapping screw into a concrete wall, you will have to put a dowel, see the article What is a dowel. And any installation of a dowel is dust, which is described in detail in the article: Construction dust. So it turns out that we primed the wall, and then began to drill! Of course, these are microparticles, but they will again be all over the wall.Therefore, we take small, short screws and dowels “5” – no more. And slowly we drill holes, put in dowels and fasten the plaster mesh. It is advisable to gently sweep it down in places of drilling with a net, without spreading dust.
3. Some priming the wall through the plaster mesh after drilling. I don’t really like this method. The fact is that during priming, it is necessary to ensure that there is no formation of ground puddles on the wall, and if there is a mesh, this cannot be guaranteed, especially for fine-grained fiberglass mesh.Therefore, there is a double-edged sword, and you decide how it is more convenient to prime. But it is necessary and obligatory 2 times to prime before plastering.

So, today we have learned how a metal and fiberglass mesh is attached to the wall when performing plastering work. Ahead of us is a very long-awaited lesson on setting up the first plaster beacon.

How to fix the plaster ceiling?

How to fix the plaster ceiling before installing the stretch ceiling? There is a suspicion that over time it may fall off.

There are of course special reinforcing impregnations for plaster on sale.

It is clear that the manufacturer claims that this “miracle” tool is able to strengthen the plaster, but practice shows others.

Impregnation is good, but if the plaster has moved away from the base, in other words, the impregnation alone will not be enough.

I usually do this:

I tap the plaster with my knuckles, mark problem areas along the way (with an ordinary simple construction pencil).

At the second stage, I take an ax in my hands and I simply remove the problem areas to the ground, so as not to cling to the plaster, which holds well, I work with an ax, and not with spatulas, I strike from the bottom up, not at an angle, and even more so I don’t pry “ living ”layer of plaster.

After the problem areas are cleared of weak plaster, you can start strengthening the remaining one.

To begin with, we prime, or just moisten, cleaning from dust, those places where the plaster is knocked down (pay attention to the edges).

Then I mix the tile adhesive.

It is easier to work with tile adhesive on the ceiling, it has excellent contact with the surface, plus it is elastic, after complete hardening, tile adhesive is much stronger than any solution and any putty.

And it is also moisture resistant (this is important).

If the layer of plaster is more than one centimeter, then it is better to apply the glue in several steps, do not rush to immediately apply the required thickness.

The remaining plaster works as beacons, it is on it that we pull the rule (if there is no rule, you can work with the remains of a profile, a corner, a board, and so on).

The glue is applied to the ceiling with spatulas, there is no need to have the skills of a plasterer, especially ceiling plastering, this is “aerobatics” in their work.

After the glue has completely dried (about two days, much depends on the temperature and humidity in the room), you can go through the impregnation.

This set of measures (impregnation plus glue) will strengthen the plaster on the ceiling for years.

If possible, remove the plaster or its unreliable parts. If not, prime the entire ceiling with a primer.The primer will bond and strengthen the crumbling plaster. On top of the plaster, you can glue a grid with a cell of 5×5 mm (+ – not important) on glue (you can tiled). In this case, the glue will bond and strengthen the ceiling, and the mesh will prevent unreliable parts from falling, which may bounce or crumble over time.

How to fix the plaster mesh

Plaster mesh will only play its full role when it is properly fixed to the base surface. Compliance with this very condition ensures that the plaster reliably closes the wall, does not peel off over time and does not crack.

How to fix metal plaster mesh

There are several types of metal plaster mesh. But no matter what kind we are talking about, fastening is allowed only in a rigid, mechanical way. It is best to fasten with dowels, observing the distance between the fastening points.

1. First you need to prepare a piece to size. For this, measurements are taken from the wall or ceiling, transferred to the grid, and then trimming is done with the help of metal scissors or angle grinders.
2. Attach the top edge (if mounting to a wall) or four corners (if it is a ceiling). To perform this operation, a hole is drilled, a dowel is driven in and a self-tapping screw with a wide washer is screwed in. It is necessary to screw in so that the edge of the washer necessarily squeezes the net with itself at least in one place.
3. After that, the remaining section of the mesh is fastened. The fixing step depends on the cells – the larger the cell, the more often you need to place the screws.
4. Important point: the mesh can come into contact with the base surface only at the joints with self-tapping screws.Along the rest of the surface, it should recede slightly, by about 3-5 mm. This condition allows us to guarantee the quality of installation.
5. The plaster layer is applied to the wetted surface. Before this, all the debris is removed so as not to weaken the adhesion.
6. Important point: the mesh must be fixed in such a way that when the plaster is applied, already hidden areas of the mesh do not vibrate. Otherwise, all reliability will be reduced to zero. If in the already dried layer the mesh vibrates, then microvoids are formed, which is fraught with cracking of the surface in the future.

How to fix facade plaster mesh (fiberglass mesh)

1. This type of mesh has become as popular as foam plastic. Everything is explained simply: foam insulation cannot do without plastering, and this operation also requires a reliable reinforcing layer.
2. Installation of facade mesh begins only after the installation of foam or expanded polystyrene sheets is completed.
3. The surface is plaster “roughly”, that is, the plaster mixture is applied in random order and is relatively evenly distributed over the surface.It is advisable to work with small areas, as the mixture hardens quickly enough.
4. The mesh is cut to size and manually applied to the already plastered wall or ceiling. Using a wide spatula, the section is leveled in this area. The mixture protruding from under the mesh is quite reusable.
5. When the mesh “sinks” into the plaster layer, let the first layer dry. It takes a little time – a day will be enough. After that, the surface should be checked for waves, bumps or adhering debris.All these flaws need to be removed.
6. Important point: the mesh must be applied with an overlap of 15-20 centimeters. Many neglect this and, as a result, get cracks after six months or a year.
7. Application of the second coat, which will often be the last. The layer is applied for two purposes: to finally level the surface of the wall and hide traces from the mesh.

There is nothing complicated about how to fix the plaster mesh. There are few rules, but each of them is important in its own way.Fulfilling them, a quality guarantee is achieved, namely, it is not enough in our life.

Strengthening of loose plaster on the wall

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How to install lighthouses using a rail and level

Recently we received another order for tiling work in an ordinary city apartment: kitchen, bathroom and toilet. The tiles are still far away, you need to plaster the walls. We will plaster on metal beacons.There are other methods of plastering, but more on them later. Today we will tell you how to install beacons using a rail and a profile level. This method is fast enough, but requires some skill.

So, in order. Let’s show the installation of beacons using the example of a kitchen. We have bare brick walls, the front and the left are even, without any special problems, and on the right is a tricky piece of the wall by the window with a gas pipe and heating risers that need to be bypassed somehow.

Plaster beacons are produced in thickness of 6 and 10 mm – “six” and “ten”.The six is ​​most often used in cases where it is necessary to make a minimum layer of plaster, or when the beacons are removed from the walls after plastering. For example, if the wall is being prepared for painting or wallpaper. Over time, the lighthouses in the wall can become rusty, and red stripes will appear from under the paint or wallpaper (new repairs are provided). If the wall, as in our case, is being prepared for tiles, there is no need to remove the beacons. Therefore, we use ten – it deforms less and is easier to install.The standard height of the walls in our apartments is 2m 50cm plus or minus 5 cm. Naturally, Chinese manufacturers know this, and they make beacons of exactly this length – 250 cm (there are, however, 3m each).

How to determine the number of beacons?

The wall, starting from the corner, is divided into vertical stripes no more than 1.5 m wide (this rule is most convenient for plastering). We will put beacons along the borders of these strips.

To install the beacons, we still need Rotband gypsum plaster – it is plastic, hardens quickly enough, holds the beacons well, provides convenience and quality of installation.Regular painting spatula. Bucket, water. Aluminum rail 240-250 cm long and profile meter level.

Rigid timber or planed boards can be used instead of the batten. They should be even and of the same width along their entire length, the more accurate these parameters are, the better, the quality of the plaster depends on it. In order not to add a level to the rule every time, we attached it in the middle of the rail with mounting tape, we got this design.

There is also a vertical level peephole on the rail, but it is located on the edge, in order to look in, you need to either stand on a stool or lie down on the floor.

And so – a bubble at eye level, convenient.

Before installing the lighthouses, it is necessary to sweep the sand from the walls with a stiff brush or a broom, moisten the brickwork with water, sprinkling it with a brush, a pulver, or a ladle – as convenient.

In order to preliminarily assess the degree of verticality of the wall, we attach a rail to it and look at the level.

So we can understand where to put more rotband under the beacon: if the wall is tilted outward – at the top, if inward – at the bottom.Well, strictly vertical masonry in our houses is a rarity.

Those who are seriously involved in repairs use an electric tool for mixing: a powerful low-speed mixer with an appropriate attachment.

It is undesirable to use drills for these purposes – they have high speeds with relatively low power for such purposes – they can burn with a blue flame, although small volumes can be kneaded with a drill. As a last resort – knead with your hands – that’s where everyone starts.Read the proportions in the instructions on the package. You should get a soft, sticky, plastic mass.

Do not mix too much at once in order to have time to work out the plaster before hardening.

The installation locations of the beacons can be marked with a pencil with a vertical line. Along these lines, with the help of a spatula, you need to sketch out the “cakes” of the rotband (the size of a handful). First of all, we install beacons near the corners – at a distance of 15-20 cm from the corner. We pick up and slap it against the wall so that the cake sticks securely.The distance between the points is about 30 cm.

Then we apply a lighthouse to the cakes and lightly press it with our fingers on each of the rotband points.

Now we attach the rail to the beacon and carefully begin to press on it, while simultaneously observing the level eye, making sure that it shows a vertical position.

Increase pressure at the top or bottom if necessary. We set aside the rail. It is necessary to touch up the gypsum mortar with a spatula so that it covers both sides of the lighthouse and holds it after hardening, all excess that will further interfere with the work is removed.

If the beacon has turned too far to the left and to the right, we carefully correct it with our hands. If there is a need to increase the layer of gypsum under the lighthouse, carefully pull it away from the wall and spread more rotband. This is how the beacon attachment point should look like. Plaster of Paris should not protrude over it.

Wipe off the plaster of paris, put it back on, align, if necessary, level the beacon, check the installation is correct. Please note that there should be no deflections or gaps between the attached rail and the beacon.

If the wall is tilted outward, the lower edge of the lighthouse should be pressed almost against it. If it is tilted inward, the upper edge should be pressed.

If it doesn’t work right away – don’t worry, install a couple of beacons – and things will get better. It remains to wait until the plaster hardens.

How to install intermediate beacons (on a long wall or just between two adjacent beacons).

After the corner beacons are installed, we need to install another one, between them, since the width of the wall, in our case – 230 cm, it will be difficult and inconvenient to work with such a rail.It is clear that the central beacon should be in the same plane with the neighboring ones. How to achieve this. If there is a rail equal to the width between the beacons, you can use it, otherwise, and also when the wall is very long, or the pipes do not allow using the rail, the thread is pulled.

With the help of a rail, it is done like this: first you need to wait until the gypsum solution hardens, which holds the extreme beacons. This will take about an hour and a half, depending on the room temperature.At this time, you can install beacons on other walls.

Further, we also throw gypsum cakes along the installation line, sculpt a lighthouse on them.

Press the bottom of the lighthouse with a lath until its edges lie on the adjacent lighthouses.

Now we put the rail to the bottom edge and, trying to keep the bottom motionless, press on the top, achieving the vertical position of the rail and the beacon under it.

We check the correctness of installation by pressing the rail against the outer beacons, while the intermediate beacon must also touch the rail.Checking is done in several places (top, middle, bottom) for reliability, you can check diagonally.

Installation of an intermediate beacon using a thread.

If the wall is long, or pipes interfere with the use of the rail, then a thread is pulled between the extreme, already installed beacons at the bottom and top of the wall. We drive in two dowel-nails, the thread stretched between them should lie on the intermediate beacons.

The beacon to be installed is pressed by the rod into the plaster until a barely noticeable gap appears between it and the thread.

If the outer beacons are installed correctly, then when checking the intermediate ones, the level should show a vertical.

In places where pipes pass, you need to look at the situation where you should add a beacon or a piece of it. For example, the right section of the kitchen wall with pipes only about half a meter wide required the installation of three beacons. And in the bathroom we even got the following design:

We will tell you about how we will plaster these difficult areas next time.

For today we will finish, I hope our article on how to install beacons using a rail and a level will be useful to you.

Until next time!

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In the overwhelming majority of cases, when installing hidden electrical wiring, you cannot do without such a dirty and noisy procedure as chipping .

Wires and cables must be hidden, but how to do this without a groove, if we are just facing a flat wall of concrete or brick? Moreover, the harness of these wires sometimes turns out to be more than impressive, especially at the points of connection to the apartment switchboard.

1. Marking

It is necessary to take care of slitting and laying bundles of cables long before the final finishing of the room: precisely when the apartment still has no trace of furniture, no things, no wallpaper, no linoleum, nothing at all. In a word – bare walls, as in one famous TV show.

On these bare walls we define and mark the route along which we will have cable lines. The markup can be done using a construction pencil and a level.It will not be superfluous to remind here that the cable lines should not be located anyhow, but go either horizontally under the ceiling (at a height of 2.5 m), or strictly vertically along a plumb line. No diagonal transitions and horizontal line segments at a low level are strictly not allowed.

When marking the walls, we immediately determine the location of the sockets, switches and junction boxes, because the holes in the wall for their installation will need to be made at the same stage as the grooves for laying the cable.The width of each groove is determined in accordance with the number and section of the cable that will be fixed in it.

2. Slitting

Having completed the markup, we move on to the next question of primary importance. How to shtrobit? There are plenty to choose from.

Most often, a hammer drill with one of the special nozzles is used to make a groove. The first of these nozzles is called strober . The strober is a slightly curved blade with a longitudinal groove.The end of this blade is sharpened and is intended for deepening inside the punched groove. You should work with a strober in a purely percussive mode, without rotation. The strobe from him turns out to be neat and deep. However, with the help of this device, a strobe wider than the strober itself can be performed only in a few steps, which, of course, is not very convenient.

Another bit often used for chipping with a hammer drill is the conventional flat blade . The principle of working with it is approximately the same as with the strober, but the performance is slightly lower.

Ordinary sharp peaks for a hammer drill or even a drill, oddly enough, are also sometimes used for chipping – when nothing else is at hand, and the amount of work is very small.

Still, one cannot expect great performance when chipping with a hammer drill, especially when it comes to chipping concrete walls . Therefore, for large volumes of work, many electricians use the disc cutting tool to complete the chases.

As such, the angle grinder (angle grinder) is often suitable, or, more simply, the grinder with a diamond segment disc .With its help, cuts are made along the edges of the groove to the required depth, and the middle part is subsequently easily knocked out using the same perforator. Despite the seemingly much larger number of working operations, chipping with a grinder is much more productive than the same work using only a hammer drill. The reason is that the grinder makes every cut very quickly in one single pass.

The most productive tool for chasing is the chasing cutter – a device very similar to a grinder.The chaser has two cutting discs parallel to each other. The distance between these discs is adjustable, which means that you can set the width of the groove within the required limits. The position of the discs relative to the bearing surface, that is, the depth of the groove, also changes.

Disc cutting tools have only one drawback compared to a hammer drill. Of course, even when chipping with a hammer drill, there is a lot of dust and dirt, but this dust does not fly from the cutting disc even in clubs, but in a continuous stream.If an electrician neglects personal protective equipment when chiselling with a grinder or a chasing cutter, then after finishing several objects, he runs the risk of having a disease of the lungs and / or eyes.

Therefore, goggles, a respirator and earplugs when performing strobes are far from a luxury, even if you are working with a puncher. Your health is always more valuable. Professional wall chasers, by the way, are equipped not only with a protective cover for discs, but also with a standard branch pipe for connecting an industrial vacuum cleaner, which can absorb most of the generated dust.

3. Cable installation

And now the strobe is done, the dust and fog have dispersed, and you can start installing the cables. Unfortunately, the requirement for the replaceability of hidden electrical wiring when laying the cable in the gutter most often has to be neglected. Making large and wide strobes, in which a pipe for cable routing could be placed, is not always possible.

Therefore, as a rule, cables are laid in the gutter with bundles, without any additional protection. The insulation of the most popular cable for home installation – VVGng – is quite reliable and does not fail with this method of installation.

You can fix the cable in the groove in one of the following ways:

3.1 Using a perforated strip. It was these nylon perforated strips that were used in the bulk in the construction of our “favorite” panel “Khrushchevs”. The strip was attached across the groove with dowels and reliably held the entire mass of cables, regardless of their number.

3.2 By means of an aluminum mounting strip. This is sold in any electrical store. Actually, it is not necessary to buy it: if you have free time and patience, you can make it by cutting any thin and ductile metal.

For mounting, the strip is punched in the middle and screwed to the bottom of the groove using the popular screw-dowel pair. Cables are laid on the strip from above, and its ends are bent with pliers, forming a tight and reliable lock. The method is, of course, laborious, but still very popular.

3.3 It is quite possible to fix the cable with alabaster. We pull the cable line along the strobe and immediately fix it with a solution that we keep at hand. The disadvantage of this method is that the alabaster solution cannot be diluted in large quantities due to the fact that it dries very quickly.

3.4 The most “advanced” and efficient way of fastening the cable in the groove is fastening with dowel clamps. The dowel clamp is a dowel with an installation size of 6 mm. At the end of it there is a special loop that allows you to hold the bundle of cables. Thus, installation using dowel clamps is extremely simple: you just need to punch a number of holes with a puncher, and then insert the dowel clamps with a fixed harness into them.

Do-it-yourself crochet rug on a net of yarn residues

How to crochet a rug on a net with your own hands?

There are many options for making homemade rugs, for example, knitted rugs from cords, old clothes, strips of felt.

Another idea emerged from the leftover crochet yarn. Everything is very simple – no complicated knitting, only the most ordinary crochet loops, like air loops, only on the net. This way you can dispose of yarn residues from knitting.

Base – a silicone mesh that is placed under the carpet to prevent slipping. It can be purchased in cheap shops, where everything costs one euro.

Crocheting rugs according to the volumetric pattern on a sirloin mesh

On the basis of the most ordinary mesh knitting, you can knit a multicolor or monochromatic (it looks no worse, even better!) A plump rug with a crochet hook on the fillet net, tying a row of crochets in a certain order to the edges of the cells – due to this, the thickness necessary for this thing is formed and volume.Here is a description of the method with examples of different carpet options in this technique.

DIY crochet rug materials

The yarn should be chosen thicker – this is a rug, not a napkin! And also be guided by the size of the mesh of the mesh – crochet should completely cover the mesh so that it is not noticeable when viewed from above. If the threads you want to use are thin, then take them in several folds, like mine.

Composition of yarn – depending on the purpose, it is possible to enter the bathroom from synthetic fibers, especially if there is constant contact with water.For the rug in front of the front door, where we will only step with shoes, synthetics will come in handy.
If you occasionally step on the mat with your bare feet, it is better to choose threads made from mixed or entirely natural fibers – cotton, wool.

Hook choose a larger one too, it will be inconvenient for small ones to work with thick yarn.

Any perforated base can be used, for example from a hardware store. I wanted to try to kill two birds with one stone – to knit a rug, plus ensure safety – there must be good adhesion to the floor.This is the kind of net that is sold in all hardware stores and is specifically designed to provide good adhesion to the carpet floor.

If you take a rigid construction mesh, it will give stability, while silicone is soft – the rug is not very hard.

Crocheting a rug on a grid

Even if you do not know how to crochet at all, even a child can repeat this crocheting.

Principle of knitting: insert the hook from top to bottom into the next hole in the mesh, pull out the thread, pull it into the loop that is on the hook – that’s it!

I started knitting from the outer edge of the mesh, knitting around the perimeter, from the edges to the center.So I didn’t have to change threads often.

You can crochet along the mesh in rows, for example, first vertical, then horizontal, vary the colors, then the end result will be like a woven woven fabric, the colors at the intersection of the threads will mix.

If you change the yarn often, knit only one row (vertical or horizontal), then tear off the thread, you will get a fringe. There are many options.

The front side is almost completely closed with crochet loops, which are very similar to knitting, the lower one looks different, only one thread passes there, due to this, the rug does not slip if you step from above.

Idea:
Using the same principle of crocheting on a mesh, you can make not only knitted rugs, but also a blanket based on a sirloin mesh, it will be soft, very warm, especially if you make vertical-horizontal rows – they will intersect , layering.

In this case, it is a good idea to make a natural fringe – first cut a lot of threads equal to the length and width of the final product plus 10 centimeters for the fringe around the edges. Secure the ends of the yarn to the last cell and leave them free.I hope I described the process clearly. If I find time for such work, I will show it separately using an example with photographs.

How to prevent a homemade rug from slipping

It can be done in different ways, I know several ways.

1. First, it is liquid rubber. I have never used it, I can’t say how or what. But, as far as I know, it is simply applied in a thin layer from the back side.

2. Secondly, this is the method that I used when making a rug from strips of felt.On the finished product from the underside, apply randomly, without sparing, melted glue from a glue gun, wait for it to solidify and until it cools down completely – you can use it. Checked – it works.

3. Thirdly, if the rug is made by hand, it doesn’t matter whether it is crocheted, knitted, or made of something else and slides – buy a silicone mesh, such as I used in this article, sew on the edges of the rug and in several places in the middle, depending on the size. Your rug won’t slide anymore, no matter how much he wants it.

You may be interested in:

Rug on a woven backing or crocheted mesh

The idea to create a doormat by decorating with a thick textured yarn crochet material with a loose large weave – the result of weaving or just a self-knitted or ready-made mesh. It is the threads themselves that give a special decorative effect to the product – fluffy, loose, soft ones should be used. Approximately as thick as ropes.

Rug from knitted cords – knitting from the remains of yarn

If you have a lot of multi-colored yarn left from knitting, then making a funny rug from knitted cords twisted into circles will not present any difficulties with your own hands.The cords themselves are woven very quickly, especially with the help of such a convenient device as a knitting mill, you need to properly thread the thread and twist the handle – the finished cord comes out from the bottom.

Crochet sirloin mesh – knitting patterns, application

Based on such a simple crocheted sirloin mesh, you can also make a rug or blanket by knitting air loops through the holes in the cells. Another method of use is to pull (pull) thick yarn or braid vertically and horizontally through the mesh rows.The ends can be tied with a knot to the base and left in the form of a fringe.

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External plaster on concrete: 4 application features

There are many formulations for creating coatings for concrete. Conditionally, they can be divided into two types – cement-sand and a group of decorative plasters (gypsum, acrylic, latex, silicone).

Cement plaster for outdoor concrete work is the cheapest and most affordable, decorative plaster is more expensive, more difficult to apply, but more beautiful and does not need a front finish (painting).

Has value and base:

• Plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks does not differ from the finishing of concrete, monolithic and concrete-filled walls. For this, both gypsum and cement mixtures can be used.
• Plaster for aerated concrete (aerated concrete, aerated concrete, gas silicate) has a number of features related to the characteristics of the material:

Hygroscopicity. Aerated concrete absorbs water well, therefore, in order to avoid depletion of the plaster mortar, they are covered with a double layer of acrylic primer with complete drying of each.

The smoothness of such concrete does not allow obtaining reliable adhesion of the finishing layer to the wall surface. Therefore, cellular concrete is plastered exclusively with the use of reinforcing meshes.

Plastering of sawdust concrete walls is carried out according to the standard technology. The only difference is in the composition of the solution – sawdust is added to it. The reason is the level of thermal conductivity and vapor permeability: after passing through less dense layers (sawdust concrete), water vapor will fall into dew on the inner surface of dense plaster (cement-sand).But such phenomena do not occur when homogeneous layers come into contact (sawdust concrete wall and sawdust concrete plaster).

Plaster application scheme is common for all types of bases and plaster mortar compositions.

Concrete wall plastering technology.

Substrate preparation.

The condition of the work surface is critical: weak, loose, peeling wall fragments will cause the new plaster to break down.

Plastering of concrete walls, the technology of which is standard, requires the preparation of concrete, reinforced concrete and monolith for plastering, which consists of several stages:

1. Removing weak areas. If the concrete base has poorly strengthened coatings, bulging, peeling, etc., these should be removed. Fragments that hold well, but give in to pressure should also be cleaned off: sooner or later they will collapse anyway. Everything that staggers, moves and does not hold well must be knocked down, cleaned off. The base must be perfectly stable.
2. Cleaning. The concrete must be fully exposed. Therefore, all the layers covering it (pieces of putty, paint and non-skimming) are completely cleaned off.
3. Alignment. Small potholes (3-5cm sq.) Can be filled with cement-sand mortar as is, larger ones require reinforcement.

Reinforcement (wire, mesh) is also necessary when leveling the differences (from 1.5 cm thick) of the wall.

4. Check evenness. Before applying the plaster, it is better to make sure once again that the walls are perfectly flat using the rule and the building level. If necessary, beacons made of cement-sand mortar are applied to the recesses.
5. Priming. The concrete surface is prepared with primers. They serve several functions:

• Dusting.
• Filling the pores of loose surfaces to avoid increased absorbency.
• Increase (and more even distribution) of wall adhesion.

The primer increases the adhesion of the plaster to the wall. This is important for the durability of the layer. Apply it after complete drying of the leveling concrete inserts, filling of cracks and potholes.

6. For block-concrete walls additional preparation is recommended – gluing. The smooth surface of the slab will not allow the plaster to adhere securely. As a preparation, a solution of tile glue is used, which is applied with a notched trowel.

Concrete plastering.

Plastering of walls with sand concrete can be done with a “purchased” mixture or prepared by yourself.

Preparation of the solution.

A concrete mixer or a trough is used to prepare the solution.

Exterior concrete plaster is prepared as follows:

1. Sand screening. For plaster – in principle, since small stones, clay impurities and organic residues (foliage, roots) will interfere with the leveling of the plaster.
2. Mixing. First, I combine sand with cement: they pour sand, cement into the container and mix them thoroughly.
3. Add water in small portions. It is very easy to pour it over: at the last moment, when the solution is almost ready, every 200 grams of water can become fatal.

After adding each portion, the mixture is thoroughly mixed.

4. Determination of readiness. The solution must be homogeneous (in color, structure). Its consistency should be such that it slides off the trowel or spatula with ease, leaving the instrument practically clean.

The ratio of sand to cement depends on the brand of cement. For example, for M500 – 5 buckets of sand. BUT, if the cement is not fresh, its concentration is increased by 1 position (1 hour of Cement: 4 hours of sand).

Plastering walls with homemade sand concrete is the simplest finish available to a non-professional builder.

Plastering procedure.

Installation of a beacon system.

In order for the plaster layer to be perfectly even, you need to install beacons: elements protruding from the wall to a height corresponding to the thickness of the plaster.

Lighthouses are:

1. Plaster. Small fragments of gypsum mortar are applied to the wall in such a way that they do not protrude beyond the surface of the future plaster, but exactly correspond to it. Gypsum is convenient because it dries and hardens quickly.
2. Cement-sand. It is also possible to organize landmarks from a concrete solution. These beacons are simple and cheap, but only suitable for small work areas.
3. Wooden. For large volumes of plaster (room, apartment), it is more expedient to install a vertical lathing.Such beacons are more efficient and convenient.

Wooden slats – the cheapest option, which has disadvantages: doubtful evenness, deformation and swelling in contact with water.

4. The metal profile is more reliable. At the end of the work, the profile does not need to be deleted.

Plastering of expanded clay concrete blocks can be performed without reinforcement.

Walls can be plastered without beacons. However, for a beginner, this is quite difficult.

Spray

The first layer of plaster is applied by spraying. For this, a liquid solution (the consistency of thick sour cream) is used, Its thickness should not exceed 0.5 cm.

The task of the layer is good penetration into the pores of the surface for high-quality adhesion to it. It is carried out thanks to:

• Mortar consistency.
• Application method (the solution is not spread, but is thrown in with “slaps”).

No need to level the spray.

Liquid plaster for aerated concrete, applied over a reinforcing mesh, adheres better to the wall than dense plaster.

Primer.

Base layer. Its thickness is 1-1.5 cm.

The primer is applied by sprinkling. Work is done from the corner, starting from the bottom of the wall. When working with beacons, the task is simplified: the solution (thicker than when spraying) is applied to the width of the entire span between the beacons. The amount of solution must be excessive (the excess is cut off by the rule sliding along the beacon rails as along the guides).

The primer is applied to an almost dry spray – the concrete should not crumble under the pressure of the fingers.

Cover.

The face layer is applied over almost dry soil by sprinkling with a liquid solution. The goal is to create a smooth, perfect surface by filling micropores, tool scratches and large grains of sand.

For covering, only fine, sifted through a sieve with cells of 1.5×1.5mm is used, otherwise perfect evenness will not work. When creating a plaster for painting (without putty), the cover is made with a cement mortar without sand.

Grout.

Without waiting for the complete drying of the covering layer, grout is carried out – leveling and smoothing the surface with the movements of the tool (float). There are two types of mashing:

• Around. Movement in a circle (for a right-handed person – counterclockwise).
• The tool is moved with wide, horizontal or vertical swings.

Traces of circular motions of the float are removed with a trowel and vice versa.So, alternating two techniques, they achieve the maximum quality of the plaster.

Final leveling can be done with a stuffed felt or felt float.

Features of applying gypsum plaster.

Gypsum coatings should be applied to a concrete surface prepared with a deep penetration primer. This will increase the adhesion of the dissimilar layers.

Gypsum plasters are not made independently, but are purchased ready-made, since the plaster mixture is not gypsum mixed with water.

Apply in the same way as cement-sand plaster.

Cost of plaster.

The price of plaster includes the amount of materials used (sand, concrete). Hired workers indicate only the cost of their work per m2, excluding the cost of purchasing building materials.

The method of calculating the required amount of materials depends on the curvature of the walls:

1. Smooth walls. The plaster has a layer of approx. 2 cm. It is enough to multiply 0.02 m (2 cm) on the “square” of the surface to be plastered in order to obtain the volume of the required mixture in cubic meters.

The brand of cement is also important: for example, M-500 requires 5 buckets of sand. This means that 1 / 6th of the volume is cement. Accordingly, the obtained must be divided by 6 in order to find out how much cement is needed and calculate its cost.

By multiplying this number by 5, you can find out the required amount of sand.

2. Curved walls. The consumption of mortar increases significantly if the walls are curved.They can be curved, concave, or oblique.

It is impossible to reliably accurately calculate the need for mortar with a strong curvature of the walls. It is easier to proceed as follows: calculate the volume of plaster in one layer (as if the walls were even), and then add to them the approximate volume of areas requiring thicker plastering.

You can buy the components of the mixture in a deliberately smaller volume in order to subsequently purchase the missing amount (when there are not many unplastered surfaces, it will become easier to calculate for sure).This will help you avoid buying unnecessary material.

Plastering workers charge a fee per sq.m. But this does not apply to special situations. For example, plastering of slopes and corners is charged per linear meter, not per square meter. This is due to the particular complexity of the work.

The way to save money can be as follows: you can plaster the walls yourself, and order more accurate and scrupulous work to professionals.

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Do-it-yourself chicken pen: materials and step-by-step instructions

Free range – ideal for keeping poultry.But not every farmer has such conditions on the farm. A chicken pen is a good alternative. We are talking about a structure or site where the birds will walk. This is very important, because the bird simply needs physical activity and sunbathing with fresh air. But the purchase option is not cheap, so we propose to build a chicken pen with our own hands. Before doing this, let’s find out what versions of walking yards are and what are their differences.

Why walk chickens?

From constant stay in the room, the indicators of health and productivity of birds are reduced.Of course, there are breeds that can do without walking, but provided that the poultry house is equipped with supply and exhaust ventilation. More often broilers are grown in cages, as these chickens quickly gain weight due to a sedentary lifestyle. The same cannot be said about laying hens and representatives of the meat and egg direction, for whom it is important to spend time on the street.

We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with: “Shed for laying hens”.

Benefits of walking:

• The collection of beetles and worms by birds is an excellent protein supplement to the basic diet;
• acceleration of metabolism;
• ultraviolet light, obtained from walking, works as a prophylaxis for rickets;
• Physical activity prevents excess weight from appearing.

Do chickens walk in winter?

Some chicken owners are of the opinion that in winter it is better for laying hens not to walk at all, otherwise they will get sick. But this is not the case. Even in cold weather, walks are beneficial for birds – it is just important to know when to stop. In addition, while the poultry is walking, its chicken coop is ventilated. If the weather is rather windy, then it is better not to let the birds out of the barn. The duration of the walks should not exceed an hour.

Types

If we consider the pen as a whole, then we are talking about a standard area, fenced around the perimeter with a net, metal grating or boards.More often it is located near the chicken coop for the convenience of the bird. The area depends on how much free space in the suburban area. There are many designs, but they are all combined into views.

Simple fenced

Chicken pen made of netting. Usually this option is suitable if you have a large personal plot from which you can separate part of the area. Broilers do not need a hedge that is too high, as the heavy weight will prevent them from flying. The main difference from other models is its size – we are talking about a large area and a building without a foundation.In fact, this is an area, the borders of which are a hedge.

You can easily build it yourself – drive metal or wood supports into the ground and attach a mesh to them. Due to the last layers, they will not be able to disperse throughout the site, trample and peck vegetables in the garden. This section connects to the bird’s hole. A significant disadvantage of such walking is the lack of protection from attacks by wild birds and rodents.

Stationary

This type of pen can be used all year round.It is better to install an aviary for laying hens right next to the wall of the hen house so that the birds can go out on their own. If you are dealing with meat chickens that do not fly, then you can leave the pen open, and its height should not exceed one and a half meters. For ordinary birds, it is better to increase the height to two meters and make the enclosure closed by pulling a net on top. This is the difference from the previous version, since the latter protects against birds of prey.

A rain canopy is not necessary, as birds usually hide in the barn.But it is better to do it from the sun’s rays, especially when the site is located from the south. Many farmers plant trees inside the chicken fence. The breed of the latter does not matter, the main thing is that they have a thick and wide crown. If the area is very small, then make a light canopy with whatever materials you have.

Mobile

This is a summer option for chicks with a hen or slightly grown chicks. In appearance, it resembles a large box with a mesh wall and top.The design can be supplemented with wheels and handles for easy movement.

In the springtime, the mobile solarium is under the sun to receive a portion of ultraviolet radiation for the young. If it’s too hot, you can move it to the shade. This is a very convenient option, since young animals walk all day and do not come into contact with an adult bird.

Build a pen for different breeds of chickens with your own hands is easy. To do this, you need a frame made of a bar in a sheathing of a fine-mesh mesh – the easiest option.In cold weather, place a layer of straw in it to keep the chickens from freezing.

Preparation for construction

Before starting construction, there are several nuances that cannot be avoided. Position the enclosure so that the bird cannot be disturbed by dogs or people walking past your house. The yard for walking also should not be flooded by water after rain – sometimes it is necessary to create an elevation artificially from a mound of gravel.

Selection of materials and calculation of area

If we talk about area, then the calculation should be from one to two square meters per individual.Here, belonging to the breed still plays an important role. Meats require more space due to their large size, and layers – less.

When choosing a material, consider the type of construction. Portable and mobile pens require lighter materials to move the products later. Pay attention to wood bars with a cross section of 50×50 millimeters or PVC pipes. They will be a good option for building a frame.

For the frame of a stationary aviary, metal pipes will be required, since it must be as strong as possible.A bar will also work, but it needs to be treated with a protective impregnation against decay. Otherwise, you will have to change it to a new one after several seasons.

It is better to use a fine-mesh galvanized mesh as a mesh. Another good option would be polymer, but only in the absence of rats and martens on the site, otherwise they will gnaw it.

Select the cells in accordance with the age of the birds (in mm):

• for adults – 50×50;
• for young animals – 20×20.

Selecting a location

Space does not matter for mobile models, which cannot be said about stationary . In this case, there are several requirements:

1. Dryness. Make sure the area is protected from moisture.
2. Environmental friendliness. Do not place the enclosure near the road, otherwise the bird will breathe exhaust gas.
3. Combination with a chicken coop. Place it in front of the last one. If this is not possible, then from the side or from the back.
4. Solitude.Place your outdoor patio in a quiet location.
5. Heat. When placed correctly, the birds will be protected from the wind. Otherwise, you will need to insulate with slate sheets.

Construction Methods

The features of each building depend on which type of enclosure you have chosen.

Stationary open from netting

1. Start by marking out. Measure the width of each side of the garment. With correct measurements, the distance between the mark and the wall of the hen house should match.
2. Make the width of the door from 80 to 10 centimeters – depending on what complexion you are dealing with. Height usually starts at 99 centimeters. Be sure to separate the space under the door with two supports for mounting it.
3. Additional post markings around the entire perimeter are needed to understand where to fix the mesh. It needs to be done every three meters.
4. While installing the pipes, drill a small hole up to forty-five centimeters deep. Place the pipes evenly in the ground – they must be stable.To strengthen, use sand, and then fill with concrete and leave for three days.
5. Weld the hooks to the pipes. The first is fifteen centimeters above the ground, the second is below the top of the pipe, and the third is in the middle.
6. Stretch the mesh, leaving room for the door. Each of the columns must remain within the territory.
7. Attach the wicket door with the hinges. If the soil is too loose, bury the bottom of the net under the ground. But it is important to do this in such a way that the birds cannot dig it up.Otherwise, they can escape. For convenience, you can install special slats made of metal or wood between the posts – the net will fit snugly to the ground, and its lower part will not injure the birds.

Stationary with a canopy

For marks use a measuring tape – there should be a distance of two meters between the supports. The indentations should be about one meter. When preparing the columns, it is important to consider that the supports located directly against the wall should be higher than the roof, and the rest should be fifty centimeters lower than them.This will create a normal outflow of rainwater. Punch a hole in each column for the fasteners. Set the former level and secure with sand and concrete, as with an open paddock. As an additional reinforcement, it is better to install a special metal profile along the entire height of the adjoining wall of the shed.

It is also better to use metal rails in the canopy mount. They must be installed between the pipes. It’s about the harness belt. On the lower tier, place an identical belt, only with a smaller section.

For a suspended structure, cover the frame with rafters, placing them in the same plane. Afterwards, it is better to cover them with wooden boards. For extra protection from rain, cover the latter with polycarbonate.

To create protection, use a wire – use it to pull a metal mesh around the entire perimeter. Don’t forget to leave room for a gate. Use the hinges to install the latter.

Mobile aviary

Stages of construction:

1. Walls.For them, you need three boards. Their lengths are 245, 3 and 163 cm. For the last two, trim the lower ends at an angle of thirty degrees, and the upper ends at sixty. To assemble the wall, the long boards must be at the same distance, and the shorter ones must be fixed on different sides. After tightening the mesh, use a stapler to secure it.
2. Assembly of the structure. Using self-tapping screws, connect the two side walls. Place the transverse boards at the bottom. Repeat the slices at a 30-degree angle.
3. Spacers. You can make them if you have nails. The cut ends will serve as a perch.
4. Plywood sheathing. Fasten the sheets of the last structure on top, and then nail with planks. Use a metal mesh for protection at the bottom.
5. Strengthening. For better strength, it is necessary to nail wood planks over the structure.