What are shooting sticks and how do they improve shooting accuracy. How to choose the right shooting sticks for different hunting situations. What materials are best for shooting sticks and why. How do adjustable shooting sticks benefit hunters in various terrains.
Understanding Shooting Sticks: Purpose and Benefits
Shooting sticks are essential tools for hunters and target shooters, designed to provide stability and support for firearms. These versatile accessories come in various forms, from simple monopods to more complex tripods, offering enhanced accuracy and steadiness in diverse shooting scenarios.
Why use shooting sticks? They offer several key advantages:
- Improved accuracy by reducing shooter fatigue and minimizing movement
- Increased stability, especially in challenging terrain or unconventional shooting positions
- Better shot placement, crucial for ethical hunting and competitive shooting
- Enhanced versatility, allowing for quick adjustments in the field
Are shooting sticks only for rifles? While commonly associated with rifle shooting, these supportive devices can be used with various firearms, including shotguns and even crossbows, making them valuable tools for a wide range of shooting disciplines.
Types of Shooting Sticks: From Monopods to Tripods
Shooting sticks come in several configurations, each offering unique benefits for different shooting situations:
Monopods
Single-legged supports that provide quick deployment and minimal weight. Ideal for hunters who need to move frequently or take shots from standing positions.
Bipods
Two-legged supports offering increased stability over monopods. Excellent for prone or sitting positions, providing a steady rest for precise shots.
Tripods
Three-legged supports offering maximum stability. Perfect for long-range shooting or when extra steadiness is required, such as in windy conditions.
Cross Sticks
Lightweight and easily adjustable, cross sticks are popular among hunters for their versatility and quick setup. They work well in various shooting positions and terrains.
Which type of shooting stick is best for beginners? For those new to using shooting supports, bipods or cross sticks often provide an excellent balance of stability and ease of use, allowing shooters to become comfortable with the concept before progressing to more specialized options.
Materials Matter: Choosing the Right Shooting Stick Construction
The material used in shooting sticks plays a crucial role in their performance, durability, and overall user experience. Common materials include:
- Wood: Traditional and durable, often favored for its classic aesthetics and natural feel
- Aluminum: Lightweight and corrosion-resistant, ideal for portable options
- Carbon fiber: Ultra-light and strong, perfect for high-end, premium shooting sticks
- Steel: Extremely durable and stable, though heavier than other options
How does the choice of material affect shooting stick performance? Each material offers a unique balance of weight, durability, and stability. Wood provides a solid, traditional feel and absorbs vibrations well, while aluminum and carbon fiber offer lightweight portability without sacrificing strength. Steel, though heavier, provides unmatched stability for precision shooting.
Adjustability: The Key to Versatile Shooting Sticks
Adjustable shooting sticks offer significant advantages in the field, allowing shooters to adapt quickly to changing terrain and shooting positions. Key adjustable features include:
- Height adjustment: Essential for accommodating different shooting positions and uneven ground
- “Easy Slide Adjustment”: A feature found in some models allowing for quick, tool-less height changes
- Leg angle adjustment: Useful for adapting to slopes or unconventional shooting surfaces
- Rotating or pivoting heads: Allows for smooth tracking of moving targets
Why is adjustability crucial in shooting sticks? The ability to quickly and easily adjust your shooting support ensures that you can maintain proper form and achieve optimal stability regardless of the shooting situation. This versatility is particularly valuable for hunters who may encounter diverse terrain and unpredictable shooting opportunities.
Specialized Shooting Sticks: Meeting Unique Shooting Needs
As the shooting sports have evolved, so too have the designs of shooting sticks to meet specific requirements:
Bench Rest Shooting Sticks
Designed for use on shooting benches, these sticks provide a stable platform for load testing and competitive shooting. They often feature a solid base and precise height adjustments to replicate field shooting conditions.
Prone Shooting Sticks
Shorter in height and often featuring wider leg spreads, prone shooting sticks are optimized for shooting from a lying position. They may incorporate features like steel blades for enhanced ground penetration and stability.
Competition-Specific Models
Many shooting sticks are designed to meet the regulations of specific shooting disciplines, such as NRA, SASS (Single Action Shooting Society), or BPCR (Black Powder Cartridge Rifle) competitions. These models often have precise configurations to ensure compliance with competition rules.
How do specialized shooting sticks enhance performance in specific shooting disciplines? By tailoring the design to meet the unique demands of different shooting styles and competition rules, specialized shooting sticks allow shooters to maximize their performance within the constraints of their chosen discipline.
Customization and Accessories: Enhancing Your Shooting Sticks
Many shooting stick manufacturers offer customization options and accessories to further enhance their products:
- Custom lengths: Accommodating shooters of different heights or specific shooting scenarios
- Interchangeable tips: Allowing for better adaptation to various surfaces (e.g., rubber feet for hard surfaces, spikes for soft ground)
- Leather barrel rests: Protecting firearm finishes and providing additional grip
- Quick-detach systems: Enabling rapid deployment and stowage of the shooting sticks
- Carrying cases or straps: Improving portability and protection during transport
What customization options are most beneficial for serious shooters? The ability to adjust shooting stick length and change out tips for different surfaces can significantly enhance versatility in the field. For competitive shooters, custom-fitted leather barrel rests can provide a consistent and secure platform for their firearms.
Shooting Stick Techniques: Maximizing Stability and Accuracy
While shooting sticks provide inherent stability, proper technique is crucial for maximizing their benefits:
Proper Positioning
Ensure the shooting sticks are set at a height that allows for a natural, comfortable shooting position. The firearm should rest lightly on the support, with minimal downward pressure.
Grip and Control
Maintain a firm but relaxed grip on the firearm, using the shooting sticks as a guide rather than a rigid support. This allows for natural movement and follow-through during the shot.
Breathing and Trigger Control
Practice proper breathing techniques and smooth trigger pulls to take full advantage of the stability provided by the shooting sticks.
Adapting to Terrain
Learn to quickly adjust your shooting sticks to compensate for uneven ground or awkward shooting positions. This skill is particularly valuable for hunters in diverse environments.
How can shooters practice effectively with shooting sticks? Regular dry-fire practice using shooting sticks can help develop muscle memory and improve overall technique. Additionally, incorporating shooting sticks into range sessions allows shooters to refine their skills and become more comfortable with the support before taking it into the field.
Maintenance and Care: Ensuring Longevity of Your Shooting Sticks
Proper maintenance of shooting sticks is essential for ensuring their longevity and reliable performance:
- Clean regularly: Remove dirt, debris, and moisture after each use
- Inspect for damage: Check for loose screws, worn parts, or structural issues
- Lubricate moving parts: Apply appropriate lubricants to hinges, adjustment mechanisms, and other moving components
- Store properly: Keep shooting sticks in a dry, cool place when not in use
- Protect finishes: For wooden shooting sticks, consider periodic application of wood preservatives or finishes
How often should shooting sticks be maintained? A quick inspection and cleaning after each use is ideal, with more thorough maintenance performed seasonally or as needed based on frequency of use and exposure to harsh conditions.
By understanding the various types, materials, and features of shooting sticks, as well as proper techniques and maintenance, shooters can significantly enhance their accuracy and overall shooting experience. Whether you’re a hunter tracking game through rugged terrain or a competitive shooter aiming for that perfect score, the right shooting sticks can provide the stability and support needed to take your marksmanship to the next level.
Products Archive – Cat’s Shooting Sticks
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If you are having trouble placing an order, please call us at (435) 590-7983 or email us at [email protected].
48 inch Oak Square Top Buffalo Cross Sticks
We have added a “new look” to our product line!! These cross sticks are still the traditional 48″, which meet the proper configuration requirements for NRA, SASS, and BPCR sanctioned competition. However, they have a square top and wooden knobs, … Read More
not rated
$88.00
Quigley Shooting Sticks
New from Cats Shooting Sticks: THE BASIC QUIGLEY MODEL ! These cross sticks are as functional as our original, Buffalo Cross Sticks, however, these were developed for the QUIGLEY MATCH, WHERE PRONE SHOOTING IS NOT ALLOWED !! The construction of the BASIC QUIGLEY MODEL, allows to overcome most ground conditions.
Set these down, adjust for target, and you’re good to go. As far as stability, don’t judge before you try them. You will be astonished at how stable they are . Made with the finest oak cuts, our unique EZ SLIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT FEATURE and secured with poly hand knobs. This BASIC QUIGLEY MODEL includes the 3/8″ wide leather strips to protect your rifle barrel. The minimum height adjustment is 25″ from the ground, to a maximum of 44″, which means a full 19″ of adjustments. As always, custom lengths can be accommodated, incurring a slight additional charge. Initially, some minor assembly is required, with only a Philips screwdriver.
(NOTE: MAY NOT BE NRA legal for certain disciplines, check with your Range Officer)
not rated
$95.00
Custom Oak Bench Cross Sticks
In the world of accurate rifle shooting, consistency is all-important. Doing the same thing over and over, is what is demanded in load testing and serious competition shooting.
It only stands to reason that when testing your rifle on the range for use in competition, one needs to replicate the specific situation that you will be shooting in. The difference between a bench rest and shooting sticks can be substantial depending upon many factors, mainly barrel position on the rest. Using these shooting sticks simply eliminates a variable in your testing which is always a good thing!!!
That’s where our bench rest Shooting Sticks come in!!!!! These sticks are set up with a solid oak base to be used on the bench. They provide for a solid rest that duplicates shooting the rifle off the typical cross stick used in competition. These are easily fully adjustable, (from 6″ to 16″ in height) made from solid oak and are very well finished. These are padded with a leather strip to protect the barrel finish.
Rated 5.00 out of 5
$95.00
Custom Oak Sitting / Kneeling Cross Sticks Round Top
What makes Cat’s Shooting Sticks so unique is the ease in which they can be adjusted for various body heights and shooting positions.
They are also the proper configuration for NRA, SASS, and BPCR sanctioned competition. We have eliminated the … Read More
not rated
$81.00
Prone Oak Cross Sticks with Steel Blade Inserts
We have added a new feature to our product line!! These cross sticks are still the traditional 24″, which meet the proper configuration requirements for NRA, SASS, and BPCR sanctioned competitions. However, they have Steel Blades Bolted with Decorative Bronze Bolts into the sticks in place of the 6″ spikes. As with all our individually hand crafted Buffalo Cross Sticks, they have the “Easy Slide Adjustment” that makes our product so unique. No cumbersome leather cradle/barrel support and predetermined adjustment holes!! The height can be quickly adjusted by loosening and sliding the knob up or down in the “Easy Slide Adjustment Groove”.
Cat’s Shooting Sticks are hand crafted from solid oak 1 x 2′s and a leather slide ( Included) on each stick protects the finish of the rifle barrel and helps hold the rifle barrel in position.
The 6″ blade inserted into the bottom leaves approximately 3″ protruding, so they can be easily pushed into the ground for a solid shooting position.
Rated 5.00 out of 5
$83.00
Sitting/Kneeling Oak Cross Sticks with Steel Blade Inserts
We have added a new feature to our product line!! These cross sticks are still the traditional 48″, which meet the proper configuration requirements for NRA, SASS, and BPCR sanctioned competitions. However, they have Steel Blades Bolted with Decorative Bronze Bolts into the sticks in place of the 6″ spikes. As with all our individually hand crafted Buffalo Cross Sticks, they have the “Easy Slide Adjustment” that makes our product so unique. No cumbersome leather cradle/barrel support and predetermined adjustment holes!! The height can be quickly adjusted by loosening and sliding the knob up or down in the “Easy Slide Adjustment Groove”.
Cat’s Shooting Sticks are hand crafted from solid oak 1 x 2′s and a leather slide (Included) on each stick protects the finish of the rifle barrel and helps hold the rifle barrel in position. The 6″ blade inserted into the bottom leaves approximately 3″ protruding, so they can be easily pushed into the ground for a solid shooting position.
not rated
$91.00
buffalo cross stick pulls
BUFFALO CROSS STICKS PULLS
Cross Sticks pulls allow the shooter to re-position the shooting sticks without changing his or her position. Made of deer antlers and rawhide.
not rated
$15.00
Leather Slides/Sleeves
Dark brown leather slides that will protect your sticks and the rifle barrel. May be used in conjunction with or without the attached leather strips.
not rated
$23.00
Oak Prone Cross Sticks
What makes Cat’s Shooting Sticks so unique is the ease in which they can be adjusted for various body heights and shooting positions.
They are also the proper configuration for NRA, SASS, and BPCR sanctioned competition. We have eliminated the … Read More
not rated
$78.00
Custom Suede Sight & Muzzle Sacks, Dark Brown
This is really an “ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” situation. If you are picky about your rifles, these Sight Bags are cheap insurance against many “gouges”,” scratches” and “dents”, caused by the tang site coming into contact with the stock when folded down. They are also wonderful protection for front sights and the muzzle and protect the barrel’s crown when the rifle is being transported or stored.
The sacks are made from garment suede and can be cinched up with the cord lock. They are reasonably priced at $21.99 for a pair.
not rated
$24.00
Custom Suede Sight & Muzzle Sacks, Black
This is really an “ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” situation.
If you are picky about your rifles, these Sight Bags are cheap insurance against many “gouges”,” scratches” and “dents”, caused by the tang site coming into contact with the stock when folded down. They are also wonderful protection for front sights and the muzzle and protect the barrel’s crown when the rifle is being transported or stored.
The sacks are made from garment suede and can be cinched up with the cord lock. They are reasonably priced at $21.99 for a Pair.
not rated
$24.00
Custom Suede Sight & Muzzle Sacks,–Tan
This is really an “ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” situation. If you are picky about your rifles, these Sight Bags are cheap insurance against many “gouges”,” scratches” and “dents”, caused by the tang site coming into contact with the stock when folded down. They are also wonderful protection for front sights and the muzzle and protect the barrel’s crown when the rifle is being transported or stored.
The sacks are made from garment suede and can be cinched up with the cord lock. They are reasonably priced at $21.99 for a pair.
not rated
$24.00
Drop Tubes
Most Black Powder Cartridge Rifle shooters feel that a Drop Tube is a must for accurate Black Powder Cartridge Rifle Shooting. This technique allows the black powder to be trickled into the case through the Drop Tube . One of the … Read More
Rated 5.00 out of 5
$55.00
Wood Adjustment Knobs Walnut Finish
For those who want to change their shooting sticks to a more “period correct” look! They are interchangeable with the plastic knobs, currently on your Cat’s Shooting Sticks. The knobs measure 2″ in diameter and 7/8 ” deep. They are … Read More
not rated
$15.00
Wood Adjustment Knobs, Natural Finish
For those who want to change their shooting sticks to a more “period correct” look! They are interchangeable with the plastic knobs, currently on your Cat’s Shooting Sticks.
The knobs measure 2″ in diameter and 7/8 ” deep. They are … Read More
not rated
$15.00
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Something about bows
Say a word about a bent stick
Some time ago, my colleague aka Alven Archer, driven by unknown motives, began a “series of articles” about bows and our difficult archery (bow?) business.
Dick Talkirish was also noted there, picking up about an ingenious cut in the heel of the arrow, providing an incomparable depth of sensation. Now I pick up the pen, which has almost completely fallen out of two pairs of exhausted hands, and continue the story.
After the aforementioned authors have so colorfully described the process of making arrows, those beginner archers who were interested in it probably have three to four dozen arrows made by themselves in stock. I suspect that for almost half a year these nice people have been gnawed by one obsessive thought: “What to do with them?”. So, now I can almost answer this question. They can shoot from a bow! Filling in a rather extensive gap in the articles, I will try to briefly talk about the main types of bows and what they are made of. Types first:
1. Self bow. This simple look is so named because it is made from a single piece of wood. It can be part of a trunk or a branch of a tree. The famous English longbows (English longbow) belonged to this type.
Due to their design features, bows of this type place very high demands on the wood used. Loose, knotty, over / under-dried, beaten by bugs and fungus, etc. – is not suitable. It can be laminated – covered from the back with a layer of rawhide, tendons, etc.
2. Composite bow. See above. The difference is that in the case of a compound bow, the limbs (bow) are made from separate pieces of wood glued together in the middle of the handle. It is done when it is impossible to find a worthy solid piece of wood.
3. Composite bow. A bow composed of various materials which are chosen in such a way that the outside—i.e. on the back of the bow, there are materials that can withstand stretching best, and on the inside, on the belly (the side facing the bow), materials that can withstand compression best. Composite bows include almost all Asian bows, including Russian ones.
4. Compound bow is a child of progress. The highest meaning is the system of blocks through which the bowstring passes, allowing you to operate with much greater weights (the forces required to pull the bowstring) than in ordinary bows.
Hence the other advantages (high speed and range with good accuracy).
This is how the main types of bows look like according to manufacturing technologies. Now about constructions. We note modern sports and hunting plastic models as inappropriate in our review. In addition to purely technological issues (wood, the presence / absence of lamination, etc.), the profile of the bow plays an important role. Depending on the type of bow (longbow, composite bow, etc.), it is characterized by one or another variant of the profile bending, which affects the characteristics (speed, range, accuracy). For example, an English longbow in profile without a bowstring is a pole, and in a working bent state it is a semi-ellipse. Asian composite bows without a bowstring are a cunning omega-shaped design, in a working tension – what we see on the Palekh caskets of well-fed knights. Such bows, the ends of which are bent towards the back, are called recurve or back-curved. If in a free state (without a bowstring) the ends of the bow almost touch or touch each other, such bows are called retroflex (retro-flexed).
The difference between straight and recurve bows determines their shooting behavior. The arrow speed of the recurve is faster than that of the straight bow. Accordingly, the range is longer. According to available information, the range of the Turkish composite retroflex bow exceeded 800 m! Experiments carried out at the beginning of the twentieth century. with a replica of a Turkish bow, confirmed this information.
The maximum range of the English bow is within 350 m. This was also confirmed at the beginning of the 20th century. shooting from approximately 70 kg longbow. However, the accuracy of shooting from a straight bow is much higher due to its greater stability (the bow does not tend to turn in the shooter’s hand). The most stable shooting is from a bow, the ends of which began to follow the bowstring, i.e. the bow is bent towards the belly even when it is unstrung. However, the speed and range of shooting from such a bow is significantly inferior to all previous types.
Most bows (especially simple and compound bows) in cross section are the so-called. D-section, where the outer layers of wood (able to withstand high tensions) form the back of the bow, and the inner layers (able to withstand high compressions) form the belly of the bow. There is a so-called. a flat bow (flatbow), characterized in that its belly is flat. The width of the shoulders of such a bow, as a rule, is greater, which compensates for the smaller thickness. Bows of this type are more tolerant of the quality of the wood. There is one hypothesis why D-section longbows were used in medieval England, and not flatbows. The fact is that the yew, used at that time for the manufacture of English combat bows, was imported from Spain and Italy. The English yew was of poor quality. And since longbows are made with less wood than flatbows, the D-section was preferred, as it was more economical. However, this is only an assumption. Most practicing archers and traditional archers find that the D-section makes the best use of the wood’s natural structure.
It should be noted that the yew used for making bows was specially selected according to very strict requirements, and was of exceptionally high quality, almost unavailable today. So we do not advise those who are thirsty to make a longbow to go to England for a yew – this is a rather original, but, unfortunately, unpromising idea. However, it is better to go to Spain to eat olives and bullfighter eggs, and to Italy – for pasta and good cars, but not behind a tree. It is wiser to use local hardwoods. Especially since the result will be the same: your first few bows will most likely die pretty quickly due to your inability to make them. However, this is quite normal.
Here we do not touch on the specifics of making composite bows, because if you do it smartly, then it’s just Egyptian hemorrhoids, and if you do it “according to the rules”, then the result will most likely not bring puppy delight. Let’s just say that the tendons were on the back of the bow, the horns and hooves were on the stomach, and inside there was a planed chock.
How well planed, we do not know – she was inside. Sometimes such bows were wrapped with birch bark, leather or silk. Sometimes varnished. They were very afraid of moisture, because. glue (perhaps the main element of a composite bow) was losing its qualities.
Bowstring
Also quite a necessary thing when shooting.
Made from a lot of materials at hand. Mostly plant fibers. However, there were other options (for example, skin, hair, tendons, silk, etc.). Synthetic materials are used in modern onion construction: Kevlar, fast flight, dacron, nylon, etc. They are not afraid of moisture and are very durable. However, it is better not to use them for shooting from a wooden bow, because. they are inelastic and the entire load during the shot falls on the body of the bow, which can lead to its untimely death in the hands of the shooter. This event brings not only mental confusion, but also unpleasant physical sensations, the degree of which varies depending on the mass of circumstances.
It is also alien and unacceptable to break the bowstring, especially at the time of the shot, since it can lead to a similar result. Therefore, the bowstring is made for a specific bow and is quite different from a simple rope with eyelets. Depending on how far the bowstring is from the handle of the bow (meaning that the bowstring is pulled over the bow, and not pulled for a shot), the nature of archery also differs. The closer the string to the handle, the higher the speed of the arrow when fired, but the worse the stability of the bow in the hand, and vice versa. The distance between the string and the hilt is called fistmele. The thicker and heavier the string, the lower the speed of the arrow when fired. The thinner and lighter the bowstring, the farther (ceteris paribus) you can shoot from such a bow, but the greater the danger that the whole economy will shatter in your hands. In general, it is believed that in order to ensure sufficiently reliable shooting, the breaking strength of the bowstring should be 4-5 times higher than the maximum draw force of the bow.
You should be aware that knots on the bowstring reduce its strength.
Archer’s paradox
Most bows (especially historical ones) have an arrow that does not pass through the center of the bow’s longitudinal symmetry. In practice, most adherents of a bent stick are faced with the fact that they have to make an adjustment when shooting – about 10-15 centimeters from the arrow to the side. The reason is that arrows must fit each specific bow individually. The main role is played by the rigidity of the arrow. When fired, the arrow bends under the influence of its own inertia and describes a rather complex trajectory at the initial stage of flight. If the arrow is too stiff, then it will not be able to curve properly and will go to the left (this is true for a right-handed archer: the bow is in the left hand, the drawing hand is the right, the arrow passes to the left of the bow). If the boom is not stiff enough, it will flex too much, causing it to wobble in flight and overshoot to the right.
Accordingly, the longer the arrow and the heavier its tip, the harder it should be. For center battle bows, this is not so important.
Normal bow behavior. When shooting from a bow, the arrow describes an arc. Due to the fact that the initial speed of the arrow is low and averages 50-70 m / s, the range of a direct shot is quite small and is 20-30 m. Therefore, almost all combat archery is carried out by a canopy. In view of this, shooting at long distances is very dependent on the direction and strength of the wind. Archery “a la Robin Hood” is possible only at short distances or by chance (not always successful). As a rule, the arrow is hopelessly damaged in this case. The main criterion for evaluating a good shooter is a stable accuracy of hits on the smallest possible target size.
In the Middle Ages, the main task of archers in the army was to provide the fastest possible shooting at the advancing units. The special accuracy of the hits was secondary, since the shooting was carried out at the dense advancing enemy formations, where almost every arrow sent to a certain distance found its target.
Thus, the main task of the squad of archers was the density of fire. A good archer was considered a person capable of firing 10-12 arrows in 1 minute. At the same time, up to 3 arrows fired by one archer were in the air – this was considered the norm. Although there were much better results. The best evidence of the actions of the English archers, in addition to the brilliant victories at Cressy, Poitiers and Agincourt, is the phrase said by one Belgian merchant of that time: “.
The European bow is drawn with three or two fingers (index, middle and ring fingers). The arrow passes to the left of the bow (for right-handers). In the Asian bow, the tension is carried out with the thumb, often with the help of a special ring. The arrow passes to the right of the bow.
In connection with this method of stringing the European bow, there is an interesting explanation for the appearance of the sign “V” – victory with the index and middle fingers of the hand. A similar greeting was exchanged by English archers after a battle won.
Because if the battle was lost, then there would be nothing and nothing to show – the winners would cut off their fingers so that, henceforth, the losers could not shoot from the bow.
Do-it-yourself bow from improvised materials at home
Making a bow with your own hands is not difficult, the main thing is to have a general idea of how to make it. There are a lot of methods, today we will analyze three main ones. If you have little time or no desire to mess around for a long time, then we have information for you. Also if you want to make it from skis or spend at least half a year on making it. In a word, everyone will choose the right option for themselves.
Beginning archers would like to say that the bowstring should not stretch, but the shoulders should spring. Therefore, the first step is to choose the most suitable material for making a homemade bow, its wooden part. If you do everything right, then the larger your rod, the stronger the tensile force will be.
The choice of material for the base should be taken properly, not every bush or branch from a tree is suitable for this business.
We recommend using the following types of trees:
- Birch
- Ash
- Hazel
- Oak
- Elm
- Maple
The main advantage of these trees over others is in that they are elastic, which is extremely necessary for us, because when the bowstring is pulled on the rod, quite a heavy load.
It is very important when choosing to pay attention to the following nuances:
- The rod must be free of bumps and cracks, knots will also only interfere. Take your time with the choice, look for the highest quality rod, this will save you from further problems.
- Having found a suitable rod, cut it so that its size is 1.5 m. A very important point is to dry it to a certain humidity, and not dry it to complete dryness. Otherwise, it will lose its properties and become unsuitable for further use.
For example, if you haven’t found an excellent straight stick, and it’s crooked, don’t get upset right away. Take an iron container and put it on a fire (or use a boiling kettle at home). After the water boils, steam will begin to be plentifully released. By holding your workpiece over the steam, you can change its curve in crooked places.
A manufacturing method that requires patience
If you want to do everything right, this method will take a lot of time. Find or look after the right tree with the right branch (or better, even with a few suitable branches, there will be a spare part). Next, it is worth waiting for winter, when the air temperature is established in the region of 10-15 gr. The thing is that at this time of the year the juices of the tree will stand, as a result, the rod will turn out to be of the highest quality (an analogy with a winter forest for the construction of wooden houses). I will warn you, if you are harvesting the base in the winter, then cut the rod 20-30 cm longer than the estimated length of the bow.
During drying, the ends of the rod may crack, and if the length is short, then you will not be able to fix this flaw.
Moving on to drying. After we cut off our workpiece, we perform the following procedures:
- Do not remove the bark.
- Lubricate the ends of the twig with oil (or some other) paint. This will create favorable conditions for even drying of the future onion (moisture will not come out too quickly through the ends).
- We hang the not yet finished product in a vertical position.
- Depending on the percentage of moisture, dry the part for 2-5 months.
After this time, we give the rod a more finished look: we remove (remove) a part of the material for shaping, which is shown in the picture below. The only thing to consider is that the hilt should be several times thicker than the shoulders of the bow.
At this stage, maximum concentration, clarity and uniformity are required from you.
Remove the extra tree gradually, because both arms should be identical, the same length, diameter and thickness. If one of the arms is thinner, then there is a chance that it will simply break under load.
Next, add the desired bend. Since we will not use special solutions (after all, we have a home version, not a professional one), we proceed to steam treatment in order to give the desired bend. If our part was overdried, then at this moment the workpiece will take in the missing moisture (not in large quantities).
See the photo below for how much bend to give.
We take a board and nail the bars to it in the order indicated in the photo below (the nailed bars are marked in black). This device is called a slipway, we need it in order to place our part in it after steaming and it began to acquire onion bends, freeing itself from moisture (drying). After placing in the slipway, you should wait 7-10 days to consolidate the result and take the final form.
After 7-10 days, we take out the curved part and saturate it with wax so that the moisture no longer comes out. We make cuts under the bowstring, if desired, wrap the handle so that the hand does not slip. The homemade bow is ready. It remains to make arrows for a new bow and you can go to the shooting range.
As you already understood, our shoulders will consist of 2 old skis, which we will attach to the handle. We advise you to make the handle from a suitable wooden block, which you grind to your size and preferences. But if there is none, then a part of the same ski can be used, which will act as a handle.
This method has several very significant advantages:
- Same shoulder size
- Same thickness
- Same dryness
- Same shape
- Same curve
Ski material in this case does not play a big and decisive role, they are suitable both wood and plastic. It should be borne in mind that in this option you should not make the shoulders too long, as you will lose tension and, as a result, the power of the bow will decrease.
