Mueller No Glare Eye Black Stick 440403A
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Mueller No Glare Stick | Lax Zone
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4 ways to create spectacular highlights in portrait photography
It can be argued that the eyes are the most important part of a portrait. For the most part, it is the eyes that are the focus of the portrait, they immediately attract the viewer’s eye.
The photographer needs to be able to correctly focus on the eyes of the person depicted in the photograph. One of the main ways to do this is to use highlights, reflections of light sources in the eyes.
Why are highlights so important, how to use them and how to control them for artistic purposes?
What is glare?
Glare is the reflection of a light source, natural light or flash, on the shiny surface of the eye.
From a photographic perspective, the presence of flare in portraiture means that details in the subject’s eyes will be visible in the final images. If there is no detail in the eyes, it will be much more difficult for viewers to interact with the object. You’ve probably heard of the term “dead eyes” before. This is exactly what is meant.
Make sure you have highlights
Make sure highlights are a prominent feature in your subject’s eyes, this will help you create more memorable portraits. Canon 5D Mark III|Canon EF 50mm f / 2.5 Macro|50mm|1/125 sec|f/5|ISO 100
To create bright highlights in your portraits, it’s easiest to aim your main light directly at the subject’s eyes. Since this main light will be the brightest light, this will help to maximize the brightness of the highlights.
If you are using natural light or studio lighting with modeling light, you will be able to see the glare in your subject’s eyes before you even take the picture. All you have to do is turn the person so that the bright light is directed at them. If you are using a light source without a modeling light, be careful. Take a test shot to correct the subject’s pose if necessary.
Highlight placement
A good starting point is where the main light hits the top of the subject’s eye. This is a natural spot for highlights, leaving most of the eye unshaded. Canon 5D Mark III|Canon EF 50mm f / 2.5 Macro|50mm|1/60 sec|f/5.0|ISO 100
You can light the subject from above for more natural results. This method has several effects. The first of these is that it places highlights at the top of the subject’s eye, as if the person were outdoors and lit by the sun from above. In addition, the glare at the top of the eyes helps to better see the eye in the frame.
If you want to use several highlights, the position of the rest doesn’t really matter, it’s important to place the main highlight exactly at the top of the eye.
Large or small flare
The size of the flare will depend on the light source you choose and how far that light source is from the subject. If you are shooting in the middle of a clear day, the light source will be the unclouded sun, and the flare will look like a small ray of light in the eyes.
If you shoot on an overcast day, the whole sky becomes your light source. Often the highlights look massive, like a reflection of everything that appears above the horizon.
If you are in the studio and using a large softbox close to the subject, the flare will be huge and take up most of the eye.
This way you can control the size of highlights. Often photographers prefer highlights to be medium. Too small will be barely visible and not expressive, especially in close-ups. Highlights that are too big take up a lot of space and dominate one of the most important parts of your image.
But there are no rules here, use highlights of any size.
Bright or dim
Another aspect of flare in portraiture that is dictated by the size of the light source is the brightness of the flare. Highlights created by smaller lights, such as the sun or small studio modifiers, will appear brighter than those made by larger lights, such as overcast skies or large studio modifiers.
Large lights close to the subject will produce dimmer highlights. Smaller light sources will result in brighter highlights. You should keep this in mind0003
Again, how you use this is entirely up to you. In a close-up portrait, when the eyes take up a significant part of the frame, the brightness of the highlights does not matter much. However, in a three-quarter or full-length shot, where the eyes make up a much smaller part of the image, you may want to brighten the highlights to make the eyes stand out more.
Of course, you always have the option to lighten highlights in post, but making the right choice while shooting can save you a lot of computer time.
More ways to use lens flare in portrait photography
Besides simply placing lens flare in the subject’s eyes, there are other ways to use lens flare in portrait photography that can be quite fun and rewarding.
- Add more lights
Adding more lights that reflect in your subject’s eyes is one easy way to change the highlights in portraits. Canon 5D Mark III|Canon EF 16-35mm f / 4L IS USM|35mm|1/125 sec|f/5.6|ISO 100
Perhaps the easiest way to make the highlights in the eyes more interesting is to simply add a couple of extra lights. Any additional light that is in your subject’s field of view usually appears as a second flare in their eyes.
The two fill lights appear as two extra highlights.
But here you have to be careful not to overdo it. If your subject’s entire eye is filled with many large highlights, it will probably confuse the viewer.
- Use a reflector
A plain white reflector is a great way to add a second faint highlight that brightens up your subject’s eyes. Canon 5D Mark III|Canon EF 16-35mm f / 4L IS USM|35mm|1/125 sec|f/14|ISO 100
Adding a simple white reflector as a fill can help highlight your subject’s eyes with flare. This usually produces a subtle effect, but can result in brighter, more vibrant human eyes in your images.
Reflector effect
- Try different lighting schemes
Some lighting schemes, such as shell lighting, create really interesting highlights. Canon 5D Mark III|Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro|50mm|1/100 sec|f/9|ISO 100
Using lighting schemes that require multiple light sources can also produce unusual highlights. Cross lighting and clamshell lighting create interesting effects. Both of these configurations require only two light sources.
Here you can see the effect shell lighting has on the subject’s eyes.
- Use new light sources.
Ring lamps and other new light sources create unique highlights. Canon 5D Mark III|Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro|50mm|1/60 sec|f/8|ISO 1000
There are a number of interesting lighting options on the market that provide unique highlights. The most notable of these is the ring light. When using a ring lamp, you shoot through this ring and the flare appears in the subject’s eyes in the same ring shape.
Here you can see the distinct ring shape of the highlights created by the continuous ring light
But while many people really like the effect of new and unusual light sources, there are quite a few who are negative about their use. Focus here on your goals and on your customers.
Conclusion
Flare control helps the photographer get the most out of portraiture. Finding interesting highlights can lead you to a lot of interesting lighting configurations and settings.
what is it and how to reduce it?
The lens creates flare when light that is not related to the formed image enters the optical system and reaches the film or digital sensor. Often it appears in the form of a characteristic polygon, the number of sides of which depends on the shape of the diaphragm. Flare can significantly reduce the overall contrast of an image and are often unwanted blemishes, although some types of flare can even add to the artistry of a photo. Understanding the nature of highlights will help you make the best use of—or avoid—in your final image.
What it looks like
The shot above shows telltale signs of glare in the upper right, caused by the bright sun out of frame. They take the form of bright polygons (usually having 5-8 sides), in addition to bright banding and a general decrease in contrast (see below). The polygons can vary in size and are sometimes so large that they take up a significant portion of the image. Glare is created by objects of high brightness, and the objects themselves may not enter the frame, and the glare from them can stretch over the entire image.
Flares can take many forms, including polygons, bright streaks, and a general blur (veil), as shown in the example above.
The Insight: How It Happens
Nearly all but the simplest lenses are made up of several “optical elements”. Glare generates light outside of the image, which instead of passing through the provided optical path is reflected from the optical elements inside an arbitrary number of times before reaching the film or digital sensor.
Note: as shown above, the iris is behind several optical elements.
Optics often feature various anti-reflective coatings to minimize flare, but no multi-lens lens can completely eliminate flare. Light sources will still reflect a small fraction of their light, and this reflected light will be visible as glare in areas where it is comparable in intensity to the light reflected from the image being captured. Polygon shaped flare is caused by light bouncing off the inner surfaces of the lens, as shown above.
Although flare is technically caused by internal reflections, high intensity light sources are often needed for it to appear. These sources can be the sun, artificial light, or even a full moon. Even if there are no intense light sources in the image itself, stray light can enter the lens if it reaches its front lens. Normally, light outside the angle of view does not affect the final image, but if this light is reflected, it can travel in an unintended path and hit the film/sensor. In the visual example with flowers, the sun was not in the frame, but caused serious flare nonetheless.
Reducing glare with lens hood
A good lens hood can virtually eliminate glare from stray light from outside the angle of view. The inside of a good lens hood is made of a completely absorbent material such as felt and has no folds. Although using a lens hood seems like a simple solution, in reality most lens hoods are not big enough to block out all the stray light. This is especially problematic when using 35mm lenses on “crop factor” DSLRs, as lens hoods are then made for a wider angle of view. In addition, lens hoods for zoom lenses can only block out all stray light at the smallest focal length.
petal hoods are often better protection than solid (round) hoods, because petal hoods take into account the aspect ratio of the film or digital camera sensor, which causes the horizontal and vertical viewing angles to differ.
If the hood is not enough, you can use some simple, but less convenient methods. A hand or piece of paper on the side of the lens on the flare side of the lens can simulate the effect of the corresponding lens hood. On the other hand, it is difficult to estimate at what point this pseudo-hood will accidentally enter the frame. A more expensive solution used by many pros is adjustable tubes . These are special hoods that are able to change their size to achieve an exact match to the angle of view at a given focal length.
Another solution when using lenses and 35mm lens hoods on a crop factor DSLR is to purchase an alternative lens hood. Find a lens hood designed for a lens with a narrower angle of view and matching mount. One common example of this approach is using the EW-83DII lens hood with a Canon 17-40 f/4L lens instead of the one supplied. The EW-83DII hood works in both 1.6 crop factor and (unexpectedly) 1.3 as it was designed for a 24mm lens on a 35mm full frame camera. Although it improves protection against stray light, however, at zooms, this is only true for the widest angle of view.
Despite all the above measures, there is no perfect solution. In reality, hoods cannot completely eliminate stray light, since an ideal hood would have to extend all the way to a distant object, strictly in terms of the angle of view.
Unfortunately, the bigger the hood, the better – at least in terms of blocking light. When doing this, you need to make sure that the lens hood does not block the light from the actual image.
Effect of lens type
Overall primes or prime lenses (fixed focal length) are less prone to flare than zooms or zoom lenses. In addition to the need for different lens hoods for different focal lengths, more complex zoom lenses are often required to have more optical elements. Thus, they have more internal surfaces from which light can be reflected.
Wide-angle lenses are often designed to be more resistant to glare from bright light sources, mainly because the manufacturer is aware that the sun has a good chance of being in or near the edge of the lens’ field of view.
Modern high-end lenses usually use the best anti-reflective coatings. Some older Leica and Hasselblad lenses don’t have any special coatings and can therefore flare quite a bit even in soft light.
Minimizing flare by composition
Flare is completely under the photographer’s control as it depends on where the lens is pointing and what is in the frame.
While photographers never like to sacrifice their artistic intent for technical reasons, there are certain compositional considerations that can be quite effective in minimizing flare. The best solutions are those that combine artistic intent with technical quality.
One effective technique is to position objects in the frame so that they partially or completely block out any glare light sources. The image on the right shows how a tree trunk partially obscured a street lamp during the long exposure. Even if the problematic light source is not in the frame, shooting from a position where it is blocked can also reduce flare.
The best solution is of course to leave the problematic light behind, although this is usually either too restrictive or impossible. Even a slight change in the direction of the lens can at least change the position and amount of flare.
Visualization of highlights in depth of field preview
The position and general appearance of highlights changes depending on the degree of aperture opening.