How to Tape a Hockey Stick
Many players prepare their new hockey stick for action on the ice by taping the
blade and the butt end. This protects the blade from wear and tear and gives you a better grip on the stick
shaft. Tape on the blade also keeps moisture and ice from building up, causing the puck to slip off the
blade—not a good thing. Here’s how to tape your stick.
Be sure to use hockey tape, which is a poly/cotton cloth blend with
long-lasting adhesive properties, available from purehockey.com—the color is up to you.
Before taping the blade itself, consider placing a strip of hockey tape over the toe of the blade so the tape
runs along the bottom, around the toe, and then a couple inches over the top. This provides a little more
durability so you won’t wear out the bottom of the blade as quickly as you might if the blade is unprotected.
Tamp down the tape around the blade.
Start the tape wraps on the blade itself from either the toe or the bend of the stick—it’s personal
preference. We’ll start wrapping from from the toe. Overlap the tape as you wind it around the blade, being
careful that the tape doesn’t bunch up or wrinkle: You want smooth wraps over the blade. If creases or wrinkles
develop as you wrap the tape around the blade, simply trim off this extra with sharp scissors.
Finishing The Tape On The Blade
After the blade is taped, we recommend applying wax so the puck bites on the blade as you play. Use hockey stick wax for this. Lots of players also rub a hockey puck back and forth along the blade, which keeps water and
ice from sticking to the tape; the black scuff marks may also help hide the puck from the goalie, if you’re
using white tape. If that’s your plan, you can always use black tape on the blade.
Taping The Butt Of The Hockey Stick
It’s handy to have a knob on top of your stick, and tape wraps on the shaft will give you a better grip on the
stick. Start by adding some paper or a strip of napkin on the top of the stick, which serves as a base over
which you’ll wrap tape to build up the knob. Tear the tape in half on the roll, so you use a half-strip of tape
to cover the butt, making the knob with these thinner wraps of tape. It’s your call—make the knob as big
or as small as you prefer. Press down to compress and smooth the knob and start winding the tape (the full tape,
not torn in half) down the shaft, overlapping the tape as you wind 10 to 12 inches down the shaft. This gives
you a good grip on the stick.
Try A Rib On The Shaft
Some players add a ribbed grip section on their hockey stick. It’s a cool idea. Here’s how. You make your knob
at the top and then tear off about a foot or more of tape and twist it into a rope. Spiral-wind the sticky rope
around the shaft, so the rib runs down about eight inches or a foot or so from the top knob. Now cover up the
rib with your tape, so you have a basic do-it-yourself grip with a rib. We often finish off these tape wraps
with clear hockey tape, which alleviates friction on the palms of your hockey gloves and saves them from wearing out.
How To Tape A Hockey Stick Toe Like A Pro
Most hockey players take their tape jobs seriously.
David Pastrnak, not so much. The Bruins forward has blamed
his drunken candy cane swirl of a tape job on penny-pinching ways born from his
Czech upbringing. And he celebrated the Islanders’ signing of his friend, ex-Russian leaguer and fellow Czech Jan Kovar, by declaring on Twitter, “… finally won’t have the worst tape job in the league!”
Kovar’s few indifferent laps of the middle of his blade are,
indeed, atrocious. For those who want to do better, read on.
Why Tape? What Tape?
As for what tape to use,
hockey tape (or “hockey stick tape”) is the obvious choice. It is typically a cotton/poly blend with rubber adhesive and formulated to not leave residue when removed. Other options include cloth friction tape, gaffers tape, athletic tape and electrical tape. Duct tape should be avoided, as it tends to make a mess.
If you can, resist the temptation for colors. Black obscures
the puck from defensemen, and white blends with the ice to make it more
difficult for goalies to read your blade.
For optimal performance in terms of feel, your stick should
get new tape for every game. Many pros re-tape for every practice. But, for
most amateurs, protection is the primary goal and, therefore, tape needs to be
replaced only when it is showing wear (fraying and the like) along the bottom
Getting a Handle on It
There are one-piece grip products available, but taping
grips are still common.
Grip tape (like the stuff tennis players use) is
spongier than regular stick tape, but also comes off easier and should be
tacked down at the bottom with a course or two of stick tape.
Regardless, you’re going to start at the butt end of the
stick, building a knob — figure in the neighborhood of 20 directly overlapping
courses to build a proper knob. From there, wind a single course, with a
consistent overlap as you go, at least as far down as your top glove reaches
below the knob.
Let’s assume your stick has been taped before. First thing,
cut away the old tape.
You can tape from toe to heel or heel to toe. Heel to toe
makes for easier trimming and leaves “seams” that face the heel.
Start with the tape a half-inch or so from the top of the
blade, on the back. Wind up and over the top of the blade, down the front side
and up the back, and so on until you’re done. More protection and softer feel
means more tape, so that means tighter overlaps. No bubbles, no ridges — smooth
them as you go or start over.
Some players leave the toe of the blade exposed. If that’s
your chase, tear the tape so that the end overlaps the top and stops on the
front of the blade.
If you’re covering the whole blade, make a few extra passes
beyond the end. Press the excess together. Trim with scissors or a utility knife.
Now Grab Some Wax
There are plenty of wax options out there. You can purchase
wax specifically designed for
hockey blades (these are normally a bit on the
stickier side) or get creative and use an old candle. The wax will help keep
ice/snow buildup off your blade – something that may start to interfere with
your stickhandling as the game goes on.
Going with the grain, rub your wax across the bottom of the
blade. The seams will lie down better and the extra layer will help to protect
Do the same to the front and back faces of the blade for extra control.
Have any ideas for the blog? Topics you would like to see covered? Contact us and let us know!
The Ultimate Guide to Taping Your Hockey Stick
You finally found it… the end all be all guide to a well-taped hockey stick.
As we all know, hockey sticks are hockey players’ most prized possession. We wouldn’t be able to dangle, sauce, and snipe without our beloved twigs.
And preparing our hockey sticks to snipe and celly can be tedious as there are endless ways to customize your tape job. But we’re here to provide some clarity.
Many new players are just learning the nuances of how to tape a hockey stick without it looking like David Pastrnak’s:
David Pastrnak’s ugly tape job
Others are looking to refine their taping skills, possibly discover a new method or design, and perfect their connection from their hands through their stick and to the puck.
Regardless of your level of experience or mastery, you’ve found the ultimate resource for how to tape your hockey stick… and how to tape it well.
First things first: there is no right or wrong way to tape a hockey stick. Although there are styles that are more standard than others, there are countless combinations and every hockey player has their preference of how to tape their stick.
It all comes down to what feels the most comfortable in
Also, there is no correct frequency of how often you should tape your twig. Many players prefer a fresh tape job on their blade every time they skate, which is a lot easier if you have endless team tape or never run out due to your hockey tape subscription.
And typically butt ends and shafts rarely need re-taped unless you’re really particular about having a fresh tape feel on those areas.
Most players stay pretty consistent with their length and thickness of their butt end and taping their blade the same way in the same color. Although, there are always exceptions to the rule. In an interview with Sportsnet, Pittsburgh Penguins center Evgeni Malkin said:
“I change it. Sometimes, if I don’t play well, I change to black. But most of the time I play with white.”
Considering he has 3 Stanley Cups, an Art Ross Trophy, Hart Trophy, and Conn Smythe to his name, no one is arguing with the method to his madness.
NOW LET’S PREPARE FOR AN EPIC TAPE JOB…
At this point, we assume your stick is cut to the appropriate size; most coaches would suggest the top of the stick should be somewhere between your chin and top of your upper lip on skates, although it’s not uncommon for NHLers to have it as short as their chest or as tall as their nose.
Grab your stick and make sure it’s free from any plastic wrap and stickers (in case it’s new) or any tape from a previous tape job.
*Veteran tip: if your blade has tape residue leftover from your previous tape job, slide it across rubber locker room floors to collect and remove the residue from the bottom edges of the blade. Use your thumb to rub and remove the residue on the other blade surfaces… but be wary of any areas of your blade that are cracked or splintered. Fiberglass/graphite splinters aren’t fun!
Gather all the accessories you need to tape your hockey stick, which may or may not include:
- regular (1″) or wide (1.5″) cloth tape – any color although white or black are far-and-away most commonly used
- friction tape – relatively uncommon nowadays but has adhesive on both sides for added grip on the puck
- grip tape – adds grip (who would have thought?!) and a soft texture to the butt end
- “sticky-stick” – typically an old piece of a stick wrapped in hockey tape with the adhesive side facing out to be rubbed on a non-grip shaft to apply tackiness, as seen below being used by Patrick Kane
- stick wax – reduces your blade tape job from getting waterlogged (prolonging your tape job) and adds some grip to the puck
- scissors – for those who prefer a clean toe-covered tape job and/or can’t tear the tape with their hands
Starting at the top…
We prepare the butt end, which should require the least amount of re-taping if any at all.
Various hockey stick butt ends
Considering your top hand is responsible for a vast majority of your stickhandling and puck control, it’s easy to understand why your butt end is arguably the most important aspect of a tape job.
Also, it’s easily the most customizable as it can be of any length, thickness, design, or type of tape (cloth or grip) that feels most comfortable in your top hand.
*Regardless of the style of butt end you prefer, make sure the top of your stick is covered with a plastic end cap or a couple layers of cloth tape to reduce the risk of injury.
**If you prefer to use the plastic end cap that come with most sticks these days, secure it down with a layer or two of cloth tape across the top of the stick before taping your handle down the shaft.
The most common is a simple, classic butt end, as seen here covered in grip tape:
Classic butt end covered with grip tape, secured at the bottom with a wrap of cloth
Pretty straightforward to create, you’ll apply numerous layers (to your preferred thickness) of cloth tape at the very top of the butt end to create a “knob.” Running down the shaft underneath the knob, to your desired length, will be 1-2 layers of tape.
If you prefer grip tape (as pictured above), create the cloth knob first, then cover the knob with grip tape and proceed down the shaft to your preferred length. At the very bottom, wrap cloth tape around the shaft to ensure the grip tape doesn’t unravel during play.
If you prefer cloth tape, it’s your call if you prefer to start from the top or bottom. Regardless of where you start, it’s recommended to end at the bottom so your top hand isn’t constantly rubbing and potentially unraveling your butt end if your tape job is ended and cut at the top.
Some players, like Sidney Crosby, prefer to add some extra grip to their butt end by adding a candy cane of rolled tape underneath their grip or cloth tape.
Sidney Crosby’s butt end with a rolled tape candy cane covered in white cloth
Fasten one end of your tape and pull a long strand to be twisted. Spin the tape roll until you have a nice solid rolled segment to wrap around your butt end.
The rolled tape can be spaced as close or as far apart as desired underneath.
L: rolled tape candy cane with wide spacing
M: rolled tape candy can with tight spacing
R: tight candy cane covered in grip tape
Although a knob at the top of a hockey stick’s butt end is most common, some players prefer an even thickness of the handle from top to bottom – whether that’s 1 or more layers of tape consistent throughout.
Butt ends with even thickness from top to bottom without a knob
And then there are guys who use no or minimal tape on their butt ends like Jason Woolley and Brad Marchand. Wooley used no tape at all while Marchand has a pencil-thin candy cane of cloth tape around his shaved down wooden butt end. Different strokes for different folks.
For those who want a clean, smooth toe-covered tape job, utilizing a pair of sharp scissors is the way to go. Tape your stick per usual but once you get to the toe of your blade, wrap it as if it’s square so you can pinch together the tape that isn’t on the blade.
Basically, you’ll create a squared-off flap of tape on your toe. Grab your scissors and cut around your toe, like Ovechkin below, and you’re all set.
Alex Ovechkin trimming the excess flap of tape from his blade, leaving behind a smooth toe-covered tape job
If you’re not using scissors you’re bound to have some extra tape layered on your toe. Some people purposefully lay one strip of tape along the toe of the blade, as pictured below, and proceed to tape their blade as usual over top. By pulling tight to the curve of the blade’s toe, you can typically avoid bunching the tape or leaving any spots untaped.
A strand of white cloth tape to start a toe-covered tape job
Bobby Orr’s legendary two-strand blade tape job
Is an explanation really necessary? Pick a spot on your blade. Wrap around it twice with cloth or friction hockey tape. You just taped your stick blade like one of the greatest of all time.
Again, we do not recommend this tape job unless you use your hockey stick both on and off the ice. But if that is your reality, many players prefer avoiding tape along the bottom edge of their blades to reduce scuffing and friction of their blade to the playing surface.
Like Kevin Fiala’s tape job, pictured below, cut two strips of tape the length of your blade. Apply one to the forehand and backhand side of your blade roughly 1/2 inch from the bottom. You’re welcome to add layers running up the front or back of the tape, if you prefer, as long as you don’t cover the bottom.
Kevin Fiala’s roller-to-ice tape job
Lastly, do you finish the tape job with wax, puck, or nothing?
Apply wax to your finished tape job if you’d like to add some durability to your tape job and grip to the puck. The wax reduces the ice and water your tape job accumulates while adding tackiness to your blade’s exterior.
Applying stick wax
Rub a puck hard against your finished tape job to add some durability and smooth finish. The vulcanized rubber helps repel water and flatten your tape job.
TL: toe-covered tape job with flap of cloth
TR: trimmed toe-covered tj
B: toe-covered tj rubbed with a puck to repel water
Apply nothing if you like the natural feel of cloth hockey tape. It’ll require more retaping but there’s nothing quite like the texture of a fresh natural tape job.
NOW YOU’RE READY TO TAPE YOUR HOCKEY STICK LIKE A PRO!
Looking for a top-of-the-line hockey stick without spending $300? Look no further!
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How to Tape Your Hockey Stick (The Perfect Way)
When it comes to taping your hockey stick, most people wonder how much blade should be taped over, where to start from and how much should the strands overlap?
Having played the game now for 30+ years, my method is based on how best I can protect my blade from damage.
I play center in two beer leagues during the week and need my sticks to last as long as possible.
Take note that I usually buy the expensive composite sticks, most notably from CCM (Trigger/Tacks models). This is not to impress anybody, but only because I am accustomed to extremely lightweight sticks.
And since these sticks cost a pretty penny, I’d rather prolong their lifespan as much as possible.
While sticks typically break at the shaft level, the blade can incur a fair amount of damage as well.
In addition, taking faceoffs as a centreman will also cut into the overall longevity.
That’s because I’m fighting the opposing player to win back the puck.
These battles include hacking at the other player’s stick, shifting weight on the blade to scoop the puck back and so on.
Generally speaking, most other players tape their stick in a particular way for stickhandling, shooting on net or passing the puck.
That said, let me explain away what I consider to be the perfect way of taping my hockey stick.
Steps for Taping your Hockey Stick (The Perfect Way)
Downsides to a full-blade tape job
Slushy ice is a tape job’s worst enemy. So, the more the ice is roughed up over the course of the game, the harder it is to handle the puck.
This applies to passing, shooting and especially stick handling.
The slush is not only absorbed onto the tape but can accumulate at the bottom edge of the blade.
Solution to slushy stick blades
To counter the problems caused by slushy ice, you can wax the palette of the blade both front and back.
Hockey wax is available for sale online, or you can also use a candle stick for a quick fix.
In case you have neither, you can rub the edge of a puck against the blade instead.
I like to coat both sides of the blade, except for the first 2.5 inches (6.3cm) from the heel on the front side. This is a personal preference as I like to practice the lacrosse move during warm-up.
I’ve never used the play in a game before, but I still like to think of it as an option in my repertoire.
Or maybe I’ll just leave it to Andrei Svechnikov (see Youtube video here) to use it in an actual game that counts.
The reason for leaving out that spot on the wax job is because the puck would just slip away on the lacrosse play attempt.
For me, I apply pressure in that exact spot while making sure the puck stays in place. I’ve seen other players scoop it up either at the midpoint of the palette or on the backhand.
How often should you change the tape on your hockey stick?
I change the tape on my stick every 2 games on average. Occasionally, if there are no rips, holes or loss of adhesiveness on the tape, I’ll keep it a third game.
But, beyond that it becomes annoying to remove.
Depending on the quality of the tape itself, I’m left with clumps during removal. If anything, stick with Renfrew hockey tape – they offer a quality product.
Those clumps make the next tape job beyond frustrating, because I’m fighting with the old tape to make way for the new.
Ideally, you want to remove the tape in one fell swoop. That’s best done after a game or two of use.
That said, the best time to tape a stick is a couple of hours before game time. Most people do it right before or after the game.
Just before the game, I encounter issues with tape adhesiveness, which is why I tape front to back going over the top of the blade.
When those strands come loose, I can rip them off from the back rather than feel like I’m dragging around confetti the rest of the game.
When I tape my stick way ahead of time, I come across issues with the tape ripping off to easily.
Maybe it’s the way I play, but these are some of the issues I notice from my tape job.
White or black stick tape?
When I was younger, one of my friend’s father suggested to use black tape on the blade palette. His theory was that black tape camouflages the puck since they both match in shade.
It’s an interesting theory, but I doubt it ever benefited my game.
So, for me, there’s no advantage going with white or black tape.
In any case, there are things you may observe with the white tape, considering it usually contrast with the dark color of the blade.
The white tape allows you to better observe any wear and tear. In addition, I tend to wax my stick with the puck, and I like to see the black markings on the blade.
Other than that, there’s no quality difference between the two.
So, go with the shade that appeals to you the most. Heck, you can even choose amongst various colors: blue, green, pink and more.
You’ll find many ways to tape up your stick. Some players like to wrap up the toe of the blade only, while others prefer to tape the middle area.
There are also players who don’t care about the loose strands – which personally, drives me crazy.
If you like to tape up your stick in any of these other ways, go right ahead. Whatever you feel gives you an edge in your game.
The takeaway from my technique should be: no annoying loose strands, protect the blade toe and wax your blade to avoid water absorption on the tape.
Finally, make sure to overlap the strands as best you can. Because when you leave the blade exposed, it is susceptible to damage.
Players can step on the blade, hack at it and so on.
If you can’t stand when your stick breaks like me, these tips will serve you well.
On average, my sticks last me a full season or two. Reminder, I play ice hockey twice a week during the winter and once a week in the summer.
How to Tape a Stick – The Stick Guru
Creating the perfect tape job will make you not only get a good grip on your stick but also make you more comfortable with your stick. There are many different combinations as you can see from above
Learn about the different types of tape here:
Taping your knob
Your knob or grip is where you see the most differences between players. Some like just a small loop on top, some like a big fat knob and some tape half way down the shaft. No knob is better than any other, it is personal preference to which is best for you.
The Basic Grip
To tape the basic grip you wrap a few layers around the end of the shaft. The more times you go around, the thicker it will be. Then tape down the shaft as far down as you like overlapping the tape.
The Finger Grip
The finger grip is very popular especially with younger players because you lock your fingers in tightly getting a great grip on your stick. You can see how to tape the finger grip bellow:
How I tape my knob:
I start by wrapping electrical tape 8 times around the top to give it just enough of a knob. The electrical tape is not as wide as normal hockey tape. Then I measure 2 hand lengths down and wrap foam pro wrap around a few times until it gets a little bulky, maybe 3 or 4 times. I wrap white hockey tape in 1 layer over the foam. Then I put 2 layers of grip tape on top. My reasoning for this tape job is that I get a little hard knob so I know where the end of the stick is. The electrical tape is thinner, maybe 3/4 of an inch so the knob isn’t that thick. The Foam and grip tape makes it feel sponge-y and very comfortable to hold.
Taping your blade
There are a few different ways to tape your blade. You can tape it “heel to toe” or “toe to heel”. Some players say that the way you tape it can effect your shot.
Taping your shaftt
Some players like to wrap tape down their shafts. This is known as the “candy cane” because. .well..it looks like a candy cane. The purpose is so that you get a little extra grip on your shaft. I found that the candy cane taping allows your bottom hand to slide freely while when you stop moving your hand for a shot you get a nice tight grip. Here is an example of what it looks like:
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How To Tape A Hockey Stick For Beginners (5 Simple Steps)
When I was growing up, hockey was the most popular sport in my area and everyone began to play at the age of 5. Learning how to skate was the first thing everyone learned, but as I got older, playing with my hockey stick was my favourite part of the game. When I became old enough I started to tape my own hockey stick and learned the easy ways of doing so, which I will be sharing with you here.
This page is for those new to the game of hockey. Your stick is one of the most important tools you can use within the game, and knowing how to do so is key. The way in which you tape your hockey sticks blade and butt-end (the top handle of your stick) can determine how well you control the puck, the way that you shoot, and can give you your own special style that is different from your teammates and opponents. On this page I will be explaining how to tape a hockey stick in 5 simple steps:
The first thing you are going to want to do is gather the right tools for your stick. If you are a beginner you are going to want to purchase these at a local hockey store or online, as these are the only places will you will be able to do so. What you are going to want to buy to tape your stick are: a roll of regular black hockey tape (1″ in width), a roll of regular white hockey tape (1″ in width), and hockey stick wax.
Black And White Hockey Tape
Howies Black Hockey Tape
Howies White Hockey Tape (Source: howieshockeytape.com)
The debate on whether to use black or white hockey tape is something that is argued among hockey players on a daily basis. When it comes to which to use on your blade and butt-end of your stick I will discuss later, but they both have their own advantages.
Black tape is said to be the preferred colour of choice due to the fact that hockey pucks are also black, and therefore when you have the puck on your stick it will make it harder for goalies to see when you are shooting making it easier to score goals. This claim has been denied by goalies all around the world, including those in the NHL, but it is up to you to decide…
White tape gives your stick a different look, as most sticks are coloured black and the white stands out against the stick. In my opinion, white tape looks more cool than black tape on a stick, but as you tape your stick for the first few times try them both out to get a feel for which one you prefer.
Hockey Stick Wax
Howies Hockey Stick Wax
(Source: Google Images)
Using wax on your hockey stick is a very important decision to make as a beginner, and even for those that have been playing hockey for years. The advantages to using wax on the blade of your stick once you have TAPED IT: creates a water barrier, protects blade from snow building up, make your stick tape last longer, gives you better control of the puck, and creates more spin on the puck when shooting. But again, test out using wax on your blade and not using wax to see which you prefer.
Step 2: Planning
The second step in taping your hockey stick is planning out the length to which you tape your butt-end and blade, and with which colour tape to use for each.
For the butt-end of your stick, it should be around 6 inches in length running from the top of your stick down to the bottom. I suggest using white tape for this as it will not rub off on your gloves or hand while holding the stick.
For the blade of your stick, I recommend taping starting from the heel (where the shaft meets the blade) to the toe at the length that you like. I also recommend using black tape as it hides the puck better and is usually more durable than white tape.
Step 3: Taping Your Butt-End
The simplest way to tape the butt-end is the one that I will describe here. There are many different techniques that players will use, but as this is for beginners I will stick with the most basic type. The first step in this basic technique is using your white tape at the top of the stick and taping the stick about 6 inches down so that there is no part of the stick left uncovered. You do this by making one full revolution at the top of the stick and continuing to do this going down the stick. How close you make these revolutions to each other will determine the thickness of the butt-end.
Next, you will want to cut the tape in half about an inch and use one of those halves to tape the very top of the stick only. This will create a point at the top of your butt-end that stops your hand from slipping off of the stick when holding it. Tape this part to your desired thickness. After you have completed this part your butt-end will be completed.
Butt-End Tape Job
(Source: Google Images)
Step 4: Taping Your Blade
The last step in getting your stick ready to use is taping your blade. When doing this use the black tape that you bought, and start at the heel. From the heel, attach the starting end of the tape and make one full revolution around the blade. Continue doing so until you are about a half an inch away from the toe of the blade. Now cut the tape off and press the end piece down tight so that it is flush on the blade making sure that it won’t come up while you play.
As mentioned in Step 2, you can now apply wax to your blade if you would prefer. The advantages to doing so are great, but there are still some hockey players out there that would prefer not to. If you decide to apply wax, start at the toe of the blade and apply the wax with brush motions leading down towards the heel. This will make sure that you are not going against the tape and raising it up.
Taped Blade With Wax
(Source: Google Images)
Step 5: Finished Product
Now that you have read and followed these 5 simple steps you have taped your first hockey stick! As the years go on you will begin to notice other tape jobs and find the best suit for you, but for now go and tear up the ice and have fun!
How to tape a hockey stick
For all of the hockey parents or young players out there who might be starting out with the great game of hockey, there are certain fundamentals that you will want to learn as you prepare for your games and practices. One of the procedures you’ll want to learn is how to tape a hockey stick.
There are different methods for taping the stick and as hockey players get older they tend to develop their own methods for taping their sticks. There is no right or wrong way to tape a hockey stick. It becomes a matter of preference. For children in minor hockey it comes down to what feels more comfortable for them when the stick is in their hands.
Taping your stick typically involves:
- Taping the blade
- Taping the grip (butt end) of your stick
There are benefits of taping each.
Benefits of taping the blade
- Better for puck handling/increased puck control
- Protection of the blade
- Prevent Moisture on your blade
Benefits of taping the butt end of the stick
Hockey tape is a special type of tape that is a “friction tape” which is a blend of cotton fabric with a rubber glue-like adhesive to make it “sticky”.
How to tape the blade of your hockey stick
When taping the blade of your stick you have two options.
- Taping from toe-to-heal
- Taping from heal-to-toe
Regardless if you tape your blade from heal to toe or toe to heal, the process is the same. One of the most important things to remember is consistency in the spacing of the tape.
- Pick a starting point
- Starting at either the toe or heal of the blade, overlap the tape slowly and consistently, overlapping by half each wrap.
- Continue until you reach the end of the blade or base of the shaft.
- Rip or cut the tape at the top of the blade (the top is recommended as you don’t want it unraveling as the tape gets wet from the ice.
- Using scissors cut the tape at the end of the blade ensuring a clean, smooth tape job around the edge of the toe. Cut around the curvature of the toe for the cleanest look.
- Pat down the tape – using either a puck or the end of your tape (preferred), smooth over the blade tape to make the tape adhere tighter to the blade. Run the tape or puck over the seams not against the seams to make the tape tighter on the blade. Complete this for the face, bottom and back of the blade. Rub it along the tape area, in the heel to toe direction.
If you like, you can apply a thin layer of the stick wax to the blade area which you have just taped and the bottom of the blade. This can protect the tape (and blade) from moisture from the water and ice.
Open Toe Blade
A slight variation for taping the blade has become popular with professional players and is actually my preferred method of taping the blade of my sticks. This is the where you simply leave the toe of your blade without any tape. Benefits of this type of tape job include:
- Great for toe drags – the open toe method of taping your stick is great for handling the puck, specifically with toe drags.
- Quicker release – the open toe method is great for getting off a quick release as the puck will slide better to the middle of your blade for a quick snap shot off of the blade.
- Improve shooting accuracy – with practice, you can use to open toe taping method to better judge how the puck moves against your blade and thereby focus your shots with better accuracy.Open Toe Blade Taping Method Image courtesy of https://www.hockeystickman.com/
How to tape the knob handle of your hockey stick
Starting at the top of your stick, you want to create a knob so your hand doesn’t slide off.
- Begin at the top of your stick, wind the hockey tape around the top of your stick.
- Wind the hockey tape about four to six inches down the shaft, overlapping the tape roughly halfway each time.
To create a knob for the end of your stick:
- Begin at the top of your stick, wind the hockey tape around the top of your stick.
- Continue to wind around the top of your stick until a “knob” forms. Anywhere from six to 10+ wraps.
- Wind the hockey tape about four to six inches down the shaft, overlapping the tape roughly halfway each time.
Want to create finger grips? This can be accomplished by what is referred to as adding a candy cane of rolled tape around the grip area of the top of your stick. To create a finger grip (aka candy cane taping):
- Hold or fasten one end of the tape.
- Pull a long strand. We recommend 12-18 inches
- Spin the tape roll until you have a nice, tight length of tape
- Place the rolled tape around the butt end of the shaft. You can space it as close or as far apart as desired. As a general rule of thumb consider spacing it the width of a hockey glove finger.
- Using either grip tape or just regular hockey tape, start at the top of the butt end and tape over the finger grip tape that you just added. This will cover the ribs of tape and provide more grip. It should look something like this:
Taping a Hockey Stick FAQs
How often should I tape my blade?
This depends. Some players like to tape the blades of their stick before every game. While others might wait to re-tape it until after a few games. For children, evaluate how the tape looks after a couple of games, if it is chewed up, you might want to consider removing the existing tape and re-taping the blade.
What kind of tape should I use?
You can use normal stick tape (aka hockey tape) that you can find at most sports stores. Most hockey tape is friction tape which is more adhesive. Do not use clear plastic tape, electrician’s tape or duct tape.
Is there a difference between black and white stick tape?
No, other than color.
Is it true that black tape conceals the puck better making it harder for goalies to see?
This is an interesting myth but most goalies you talk to say that it does not make a difference to goalies. Again it comes down to personal preference. Here’s a fun article from NHL.com on the topic of black or white tape.
Should I remove the old tape before re-taping the blade of my hockey stick?
Yes. Taping over top of the existing tape will cause the blade to be heavier and will be a detriment to your shooting and passing. Remove all previous tape and tape fresh each time you need to tape your blade.
Draw and delete lines
You can add lines to connect shapes or select data, or delete them.
Draw a line with connection points
A connecting line is a line that has connection points at its ends that are used to attach it to shapes. The connecting line can be straight, curved, or curved. When you select a connector, dots appear on the shape outline.They show you where you can attach the line.
Important: In Word and Outlook, connection points can only be used when the lines and objects to which they are attached are placed on the canvas . To insert a canvas, on the Insert tab, click the Shapes button and click New Canvas at the bottom of the menu.
To add a line that attaches to other objects, do the following:
On the tab, Insert , under Illustrations , click Shapes .
In the Line group, select the trunk you want to add.
Note: The last three types in section Line (Curve, Polyline: Shape and Polyline: Drawn Curve) are not connectors.Hover over a type to view its name before clicking it.
Move the pointer over the first shape or object to draw a line that connects the shapes.
Connection points appear indicating that the line can be attached to the shape. (The color and type of these dots depends on the version of Office.)
Note: If no connection points are displayed, you either selected a line that is not a connection line, or you are not working on the canvas (in Word or Outlook).
Click the first shape and drag to the connection point on the second object.
Note: When you reposition shapes that are connected by connectors, the connectors do not detach from the shapes and move with them. If you move the end of a connector, it detaches from the shape and can be attached to another connection point on the same shape or to another shape. If a connector is attached to a connection point, it remains connected to the shape, no matter how you move it.
Draw a line without connection points
To add a line that is not attached to other objects, do the following:
On the tab, Insert , under Illustrations , click Shapes .
In the group Line , select any line type.
Click the desired location in the document, move the pointer to a different location while holding down the mouse button, and then release it.
If you need to add the same line to your document several times, you can quickly do this using the Lock Drawing Mode command.
On the tab, Insert , under Illustrations , click Shapes .
Under , Lines , right-click the line or shape that you want to add and select Lock Drawing Mode .
Click where you want the line or connector to start, and then drag the cursor to where you want it to end.
Repeat step 3 for each line you want to add.
When you have added all lines or connectors, press ESC.
Add, change and delete an arrow or line shape
Select the line you want to change.
For multiple lines, select the first, then hold down the CTRL key and select the rest.
On the Format tab, click arrow Shape Outline .
If you don’t see the Format tab, make sure you have selected the line. This may require you to double-click it.
Move the pointer over Arrows and click the arrow type you want.
To change the arrow type or size, and the line type, width, and color, click More arrows and set the options as needed.
To remove an arrow, click the first type Arrow: style 1 (no arrowheads).
Click the line, connector, or shape that you want to delete, and then press the DELETE key.
If you want to delete multiple lines or connect lines, select the first one, then hold down the CTRL key and select the others, and then click Delete.
DIY eyeglass repair using examples
Glasses are an optical device used for optical correction of human vision in case of deviation from the norm and for protecting eyes from dangerous external influences.
To repair glasses, you need a tool that rarely anyone has at hand. If you do not have the opportunity to repair glasses with your own hands, you can contact the professionals who will repair them, and if repair is impossible, they will help you with the choice of new ones.
If the screw for fixing the glasses or in the hinge of the ear hook (bow) is simply unscrewed, then even a child can handle such a repair, just take a watch screwdriver or a knife with a sharp end and tighten the screw, without applying more force, until it stops.
But if the frame of the glasses breaks at the point of transfer, or the temple breaks off at the point of the hinge, then such a breakdown of the glasses is no longer easy to eliminate, for repair you need tools and knowledge of technology.
In modern glasses, the temples are often attached to the hinges using a flex. This mechanism is a spring that fixes the temple (bow) in a predetermined position and allows the temples to move apart, in contrast to the standard angle of 100˚ of ordinary glasses, by an angle of up to 160˚.
Frame with flexes eliminates pressure on the head when wearing glasses and distortion of the frame when removing glasses with one hand, so glasses with flexes last longer and more comfortable to wear. But the more complex the glasses are, the more likely they are to break.
How to screw the screw
into the hinge of the frame of glasses with flexes
If it is not difficult to screw a loose screw into the hinge of fastening simple glasses, then in glasses equipped with flexes, it is not such an easy task as it seems at first glance.When attaching the temple, the screw passes through the movable flex bar, and if the screw is unscrewed, the flex bar is pulled into the temple cavity and the mounting hole in the frame does not coincide with the hole on the temple. It is impossible to tighten the screw.
When analyzing the breakdown, everything became clear, you need to push the flex bar and screw the screw into place. The bar can be easily pulled out with an awl or a needle, if you pass them through the screw hole, but then there is nowhere to screw the screw. Otherwise, it seems that there is nothing to catch on.But if you look closely, it turns out that there is a ledge in the bar protruding from the temple, behind which it can be extended. Only the problem of lack of hands arises. The third hand can be a good vise.
The temple is clamped into the jaws of the vise, if the material from which the temple is made is soft, then a piece of leather should be laid between the jaws of the vice. But even with the help of a vice, it is not easy to screw the screw into the frame of the glasses, since you have to hold the base of the frame with one hand and, at the same time, with this same hand, use a small screwdriver to move the flex bar up so that the holes coincide.With the other hand, you need to insert a screw into the aligned holes and screw it in. I only succeeded with a few tries.
A native screw was lost, and I had to screw in a suitable diameter, came up from a broken calculator. Before assembling the glasses, you must first tighten the new screw with force, thereby cutting a new thread. In order to prevent the screw from unscrewing, I riveted it a little, from the side of its exit from the frame of the glasses.
If a suitable screw could not be found, it can be replaced with a brass or steel rod of a suitable diameter, for fixing, by riveting its ends as described below.
Repair of glasses frame with flexes
I got into the repair of glasses, the temple (bow) in which broke off at the point where the hinge was attached to the flex.
The load on the junction of the temple with the flex is large and repairing glasses with super glue or epoxy would not provide a reliable connection. There was only a mechanical repair method.
There was a hole with a rectangular groove at the end of the temple of the glasses, and the counterpart of the part, which entered this hole and was fixed in the hinge of the frame, was a narrow steel flat strip about 1 mm thick.The only possible reliable repair method was to connect the parts with a rivet.
There are no industrial rivets for such minor repairs. But a brass sewing pin with a metal head with a diameter of 0.7 mm worked well as a rivet. The size of the pin determines the diameter of the holes that need to be drilled in the parts to be joined.
Before drilling, you need to make the markings. The first hole must be drilled in the ear (bow), at a point calculated so that it passes through the center of the strip fixed in the frame hinge.
To do this, the temple must be clamped in a vice. Between the jaws of the vise, so as not to damage the coating of the temples, lay pieces of leather and apply a drilling point with a core.
Next, you need to drill a hole in the temple. It is difficult to drill a hole with a diameter of 0.7 mm with a household powerful drill without breaking the drill, since it is impossible to feel the pressure on the drill due to the larger mass of the drill and this will lead to inevitable breakage of the drill. For such work, a miniature drill is needed, for example, as in a homemade mini drilling machine.
You also need to drill a hole in the flat plate to secure the temple to the frame hinge. Before drilling, you need to mark the drilling point. To do this, the plate is inserted all the way into the groove of the temple located at its end and in this form the assembly is clamped in a vice laid with leather. The bow of the glasses should take a position relative to the frame, corresponding to the glasses worn on the head of the person.
The hole, previously drilled in the temple, will serve as a conductor, inserting a drill into it, a hole is drilled in the plate.You need to drill very carefully, applying little force, since the drill can be easily broken.
The holes have been drilled, and you can proceed to the final stage of repairing glasses, riveting. The flat plate is inserted all the way into the groove in the temple and the pin is threaded through the holes.
Using pliers, the pin on the opposite side of the head is shortened so that the protruding part is 0.2-0.3 mm high.
To complete the repair, it remains to flare the protruding part of the pin with a small hammer.To do this, press the round head of the pin to the anvil and with light blows, changing the angle, flatten the part of the pin protruding above the temple.
If there is no small hammer, then you can flare the pin with a large hammer, applying weak blows to the protrusion of the pin through the metal rod.
As you can see, the repair of the glasses has been completed, the rivet of the temples to the base turned out to be neat, without spoiling the aesthetic appearance of the glasses.
While I was repairing the glasses, fixing one temple in place, the second one broke on the glasses.I had to repair it using the above technology. Now the glasses after repair will serve for a long time, and this has been confirmed by time. I tested the technology of repairing glasses with a rivet on several types of spectacle frames; after repair, the glasses at the junction of the temples with the console no longer broke.
Repair of the eyeglass temple with a broken hinge
A neighbor turned to me with a request to try to repair his favorite glasses, as they refused to repair him in a specialized workshop – they advised me to buy new ones.
The bow of the glasses broke at the point of the hinge and at first glance it seemed that it was impossible to repair the glasses. But if you think about it, you can always find a way to repair.
First you need to unscrew the self-tapping screw and glue the broken off part of the hinge using Super-glue “Contact” to the temple. I often use this glue to glue any cracked or broken pieces together. But in this case, the fracture area is small and the glue will not hold reliably. Therefore, the parts were glued together mainly for the convenience of further repairs.
Next, a staple was bent from a paper clip, as shown in the photo, and by heating with an electric soldering iron, it was fused in the longitudinal direction of the temple. The middle of the staple should follow the crack line.
For a secure connection, a second bracket was fused across the temple. In order not to burn your fingers and to melt the bracket into the desired place on the temple, it is convenient to hold it with tweezers. It takes up to a minute to warm up the brackets, there is no need to rush. When the bracket heats up to the melting point of the plastic, it will easily enter it.
After the staples are melted into the temple, it remains only to smooth out the protruding plastic and cut off its excess after cooling with a knife or grind it off with fine-grained sandpaper. If the bracket appears on the surface, then it can be reheated and drowned deeper.
Now the staples are not visible, the resistance to breakage after reinforcement with steel staples of the temple has become higher than it was. The glasses will no longer break at this point. If desired, the junction can be polished, making it completely invisible.
The repair has been completed and now the glasses look like new and will last a long time if treated with care. When I returned the glasses to my neighbor, he was very surprised that they managed to be repaired, but he doubted if the temple would break off in this place again. After a month of socks, he began to ask me what kind of glue I glued the glasses. After all, he did not know that the bow at the place of the breakdown was reinforced with metal brackets.
Repair of the place of attachment of the ear hook of the glasses to the rim
Another pair of glasses with a broken arm was repaired.But in this case, the temple was intact, and the place of its attachment to the rim collapsed.
The loop of the temple was made of brass, so it did not break. This breakage is more likely due to a constructive flaw in the frame of the glasses, and not to handling them.
The loop of the temple was fastened in a rectangular hole made in the frame with one self-tapping screw screwed into the metal of the loop. When wearing glasses, the screw slowly unscrewed, and the load on the plastic increased, so it cracked.Ultimately, the self-tapping screw completely unscrewed and lost, as a result, the bow fell out of the mount.
A screw of a suitable size was not found, so I had to use the standard M1.5. For this, a thread was cut in the loop bar with a tap.
The plate on the rim for securing the loop of the temple had a crack. But it was impractical to install a metal bracket to strengthen it, since it was necessary not only to strengthen the plate, but also to increase the support area of the screw head
Therefore, a washer ribbed around the circumference was selected and melted into the plate by heating with a soldering iron.As a result, the area of the screw head support on the plastic increased many times, and the crack partially melted, which also increased its strength.
Next, the mating surfaces of the plates were greased with Super-moment glue, the hinge plate was inserted into the square hole of the base of the glasses and a screw was tightened. A splinter from the frame was glued at the same time. It did not carry a load and therefore there was no need to strengthen its fastening with a bracket.
The next glasses were repaired with their own hands and their operation for several months confirmed the reliability of the repair performed.
Repair of a semi-rim frame
with a lens mounted on a line
In a semi-rim frame, the lenses are half mounted in the frame, and the rest of them are held in the frame by a fishing line half recessed in the facet (a groove that runs along the entire length of the lens end). Thanks to this way of attaching the lenses, glasses have an elegant look and less weight compared to rim frames, especially if the lenses are plastic.
But elegance has to pay with a more careful attitude during operation, since such a frame, in comparison with a rim frame, is less reliable.If you forget to take off your glasses and start shooting a piece of clothing over your head, it may well happen that the glass falls out or pops out of the rim of the fishing line, as in the photo. If the lens falls out, but the line remains securely fixed in the half-rim, then due to the elasticity of the line, the lens can be replaced. If the line is detached from the frame, you will need to replace the line with a new one.
But do not get upset and run to the workshop, such a breakdown of the semi-rim frame of glasses is not difficult to fix with your own hands.For repairs, ten centimeters of a transparent fishing line with a diameter of 0.8 mm is enough. The fishing line can be asked from familiar fishermen or asked at any fishing tackle store. I was cut off half a meter for thanks.
The first thing to do when starting a repair is to remove the old line from the frame. Usually, it is enough to move the line back and forth with effort and it will move from the attachment point. If its melted ends interfere, then the line can be cut. You won’t need it anymore.
After freeing the holes from the old line, you need to check whether the line purchased for repair fits well.To do this, you need to bite off with side cutters or cut off one of its ends obliquely so that the end of the line becomes sharp. This will make it easier to insert it into the holes in the frame.
If the line cannot be passed through the mounting hole in the rim, it must be cleaned. This is best done with a mini drill with a 0.8 mm drill bit. But if it is not possible, then you can use a needle or a thin awl, and an unbent paper clip will do.
The holes in the half-rim of the frame have the shape of a cone; from the side of the lens, their diameters are 0.8 mm, and from the outside, they are 1.5 mm.This can be clearly seen in the photograph. Thus, by melting the end of the line, you can securely fix it in the frame.
First, the line is threaded through the hole in the nose pad, without a lens. Next, the end of the line is melted with a soldering iron and quickly, until the end of the line has hardened, it is pulled into the hole in the nosepiece. It is necessary to retract slowly so that the line does not jump out of the hole.
If a high-power soldering iron is at your disposal, you can wind several turns of any copper, aluminum or steel wire with a diameter of 1-2 mm on its tip.And with this impromptu sting, warm up the fishing line. In the absence of a soldering iron, you can melt the fishing line with a nail heated on the burner of a gas stove. In order not to burn yourself, the nail must be held with pliers. You can use the sharp tip of a heated electric iron to melt the fishing line or, at worst, even with a small flame of a lighter.
After fixing one end of the fishing line in the nose pad, a lens is inserted and the fishing line, threaded into the hole from the temple side, is stretched. Further, the fishing line is pressed with your fingers at the point of passage in the facet of the lens, and is cut in such a way that its end protrudes from the hole by a couple of millimeters.Then the lens is removed, the second end of the fishing line is melted and after cooling, the lens is installed in the half-rim.
Remnants of molten fishing line protruding from the holes of the frame must be cut flush with a sharp knife.
Glasses refurbished and as good as new. The repair took less time than reading this article, which I hope you found helpful.
Repair of broken half-rim of spectacle frames
Several years passed, and the favorite half-rimmed glasses on the fishing line cracked as a result of a collision with the right angle of the kitchen shelf.
As you can see in the photo, the frame broke in the glass installation area at its narrowest point. For its repair, a gluing technology was used, followed by reinforcement of the fracture site with a metal bracket.
At the first step, the frame must be glued with Super-moment glue or similar, designed for gluing plastic products. To do this, you first need to apply a thin layer of glue to the inner side of the rim of the frame, which is in contact with the glass along its entire length. Then also apply a thin layer of glue to the end of the glass in contact with the frame.
After gluing, a small gap was found between the glass and the nose pad. For the reliability of gluing, a small amount of soda was poured into this gap and then impregnated with glue.
After such bonding, the frame received sufficient strength, but for a higher bond strength, an additional metal bracket made from a paper clip was installed.
The bracket was fused into the frame of the glasses using an electric soldering iron. For clarity, the photo shows the bracket not yet fully recessed into the plastic.
Ultimately, the bracket was completely sunk into the plastic of the glasses, the place was sanded and polished with felt. There are practically no traces of repairs.
In the same way, you can successfully repair plastic arms and a cracked frame in the place where it rests on the nose with your own hands.
Repair of a broken plastic rim of spectacle frames
I had to repair glasses with plastic frames, in which one of the plastic glasses fell out of the rim.
On closer inspection, it turned out that the bezel at the bottom was cracked in half. This is one of the glasses breakage that you can fix yourself in a few minutes.
To do this, it is enough to grease the crack with Super-glue and the rim on the inside a couple of centimeters to the sides from the crack. Next, insert the glass into the bezel, squeeze it tightly and hold it for a couple of minutes.
The rim of the glasses at the crack does not bear any force load, and therefore there is no need for reinforcement with steel wire.The glasses have been repaired, the appearance has not changed, and now, with careful treatment, they will serve for a long time.
Repair of a metal frame of glasses with a broken rim
They brought me glasses with metal frames with a broken rim at the bridge of the nose, which the repair shop refused to repair. The breakdown was really serious. Glue, even the strongest in this case, will not hold, since the area of the rim end at the fracture site was no more than a square millimeter.
I also immediately thought that this was a hopeless case and the glasses could not be repaired, but after a while I suddenly got an idea of how to do without metal welding. After all, you can repair the frame by gluing the broken metal rim directly to the lens of your glasses. The area of the bonding surfaces will become large and, thus, sufficient strength of the frame will be ensured after the repair as a whole.
Universal super-glue “Contact” is well suited for gluing frames.This glue is made on the basis of cyanoacrylate and has a high adhesive strength and polymerizes on contact with water in the air. The higher the air humidity, the faster the glue hardens, so even damp surfaces can be glued. The setting time of the glue, depending on the air humidity, ranges from several seconds to several minutes. The glue hardens completely in a day.
By the way, not all home craftsmen know that if you need to quickly repair a crack or chip in hard materials, you can prepare a homemade putty by mixing super glue with baking soda.
The lenses of the glasses were plastic, and to protect them from getting on the optical surface of the glue, strips of adhesive tape had to be glued on both sides around the perimeter of the lens. It is undesirable to glue the entire surface of the lens with a single piece of tape, since after gluing it will be difficult to peel off without damaging the optical surface of the lens. Excess tape on the ends of the lens can be easily removed with fine sandpaper.
If the lenses are made of glass, then you do not need to glue the tape. Super glue softens well with acetone, which is safe for glass.Therefore, to remove the remnants of glue after repair from the optical surface of the lenses, it is enough to wipe them with a soft cloth moistened with this solvent.
Before gluing, you need to think over all the movements and practice, installing the lens in the frame before applying glue to it. When the movements are completed, you need to apply glue to the end of the lens, precisely insert it into place in the frame and tighten the frame ring with your fingers for a few minutes. I could not take photos of applying glue and installing the lens, since only a few seconds were allotted for this operation.
When the glue has set, remove the tape and tighten the frame with a thread, tying it up as in the photo. The glasses should be left tied for a day until the glue has completely hardened. If there is a gap between the rim of the frame and the lens, then it is advisable to additionally fill it with super-glue.
Inspection of spectacle frames after repair by gluing showed that they have a sufficient margin of safety for further use. The appearance of the glasses remained unchanged.
Repair of broken eyeglass frame temples
At the request of a friend, I had to repair glasses, in which one of the temples broke in half.The breakage occurred at the junction of its metal part with its plastic continuation.
The metal part of the temple was attached to the plastic part by a protruding pin, which was tightly inserted into the hole in the plastic part of the temple and fixed with a screw. It was not possible to remove the pin from the plastic after unscrewing the screw, since the breakage occurred along the plastic line, and it was impossible to hook the tool onto the pin. I also didn’t want to grind down the plastic by shortening the temple.
The difficulty of repairing the temple at first glance was aggravated by the fact that the metal part was all in openwork holes. But as it turned out, it was a plus. To restore the integrity of the temple, a special-shaped overlay was made of a 1 mm thick sheet of brass. I do not give the geometric dimensions of the lining, since all temples are different and the patch for repairing a specific frame of glasses will have its own dimensions, depending on the width of the temple in the place of breakage.
As you can see from the photo, two holes were drilled in the escutcheon and three folds were made.Bends are needed to prevent axial swinging of the connected parts of the temple. The dimensions of the holes determined the ready-made holes in the metal and plastic parts of the temple, and were 2.5 mm and 1.5 mm in diameter, respectively.
The metal part of the temple was fixed to the escutcheon using a shortened M2.5 screw with a conical head. The screw was used as a rivet.
It was inserted from the outside of the metal part of the temple and riveted from the inside with a small hammer.To prevent the riveted part of the screw from protruding in the cover plate, a countersink of the hole was previously made.
The pad was fixed to the plastic part of the temple with an M1.5 screw screwed into the previously existing threaded hole in the remaining pin.
The photo shows a view of the overlay after installing the screw and rivet from the inside of the temple.
And in this photo is a view from the outside of the temple after connecting its broken off parts.
It remains to attach the temple to the frame of the glasses using a standard screw and the repair can be considered complete.
This is how the glasses began to look after the repair. If you do not look closely, then it is difficult to notice the restored place of the temple, it does not strike the eye. But on the other hand, the temple has become much stronger and now it will definitely never break in this place.
Repair of the plastic frame of glasses
with a broken rim and a loop for attaching the temple
Glasses with frames made of thermoplastic plastic are easier to repair, since they melt easily when heated, adhere well, and dissolve in some types of solvents, for example, dichloroethane or benzene.
I faced the repair of glasses in a plastic frame, which was broken in three places at once. The right loop of the temple was broken off at the frame.
Also, as can be seen in the photograph, a part of the rim from the side of the temple attachment to the base was broken off. Apparently, the glasses were accidentally sat down or stepped on.
The repair had to be carried out in two stages. First, with the help of the super-glue “Contact” according to the technology described above, used in the repair of the metal frame of glasses with a broken rim at the jumper, the broken off plastic part of the rim was glued to its original place.
In the glasses being repaired, the temples were equipped with flexes, which, when used, on the glued part of the rim will create a large load. Therefore, to ensure sufficient strength of the rim in the place of gluing, two steel staples fused into the plastic were additionally installed, bent from a paper clip.
To melt a paper clip, you need to take it with tweezers and attach it to the cracked place, as shown in the photo. Next, with the tip of a 12-40 W soldering iron, you need to heat the bracket, slightly pressing on it from above.This usually takes a few minutes. There is no need to rush here.
When the bracket has entered the plastic a little, the tweezers can be removed and then, pressing, continue to heat the bracket until it is completely drowned in the base of the glasses.
Next, the plastic squeezed out by the bracket is smoothed out with the tip of the soldering iron so that the bracket disappears completely. After the plastic has hardened, the resulting unevenness is ground off with a file or sandpaper, and the roughness is removed by polishing with felt.After that, you can start repairing the swivel joint.
First, you need to remove the remaining loop with side cutters and use a file to level the surface of the junction of the temple to the base of the glasses.
A rectangular loop should be bent out of copper or steel wire ∅1-1.5 mm. The photo shows a loop made from wire for electrical wiring. Copper, unlike steel, bends easily and has sufficient strength.
Based on the size of the base, the ends of the loop are shortened to the desired length and spread apart.This shape of the loop will ensure its secure fixation in the plastic case of the glasses.
The eyelet is then placed on a flat surface covered with soft cloth and pressed down with a heavy object. The base is closely attached to it, as in the photo. It remains by fusion, according to the technology described above for the bracket, to sink the homemade eyelet into the base case of the glasses. Once it cools down, the swivel joint made will hold firm enough and work well. If the plastic at the melting point loses its shine, then you can cover this place with a thin layer of liquid transparent nail polish.The varnish is usually made with a solvent base that softens the thermoplastic plastic.
As you can see in the photo, the repaired goggle joint is quite neat.
From the outside, traces of the repair of the plastic frame are practically invisible. The glasses are repaired and ready for further wear.
I have such a problem, the child broke his glasses! The bow broke off at the place of the hinge with the screw, that is, the hinge with the screw remained on the frame, and the bow without a hole.The frame is plastic. I took the glasses for repair, they said not to fix it, I need to buy new ones. Maybe you can advise something.
Everything can be repaired, but the laboriousness of the repair and the need to purchase a special tool often makes the repair economically inexpedient. This is just your case.
But since the main cost of glasses is made up of optical glasses and their installation, you can repair glasses at low cost if you buy a cheap frame, from which the temples are suitable for your glasses in color, fastening method and loop sizes.Better yet, buy the exact same frame. Moving the temples from one glasses to another is not difficult. The glasses will look like new.
Good evening! Metal glasses – can they be repaired?
The only breakage that can be easily repaired is if the rim is cracked anywhere. An example of such a repair is described above on the page.
Other types of glasses breakage, without welding, will lead to a change in their appearance.For example, if the bow of the glasses breaks not in the place of the hinge, then using a piece of a thin-walled tube of a suitable diameter, one of the knees from the telescopic antenna of a portable receiver, this is easy to do.
I even had to repair glasses with a broken bridge in the middle connecting the rims. Of course, you won’t go to the celebration with such glasses, but poking around in the beds or doing other work is quite possible.
I have glasses with thick plastic frames, hard plastic. The frame cracked right in the middle on the bridge of the nose when we fell onto the sweater with glasses.
Uncomplicated workshops did not even look. Once upon a time there was a master who vouched to screw in the “pin”.
I imagine the repair as follows: drill holes on both sides with a small drill, and somehow contrive-twist “with a screw with a thread on both sides.” And glue along the crack. Perhaps it will be better to insert several connections from the wire, a square bow 5×5 millimeters.
My father had a drill from a turntable motor. Your article practically reveals similar cases, only about a complete crack on the bridge of the nose, not really.
Please, advise on how to approach the matter. I am sure the case is quite common, even if not the simplest one.
I did not have to repair glasses with such a breakdown, therefore there is no photo report in the article.
During the operation of the glasses, the nose bridge is subjected to rather heavy loads and it is not easy to connect reliably without spoiling the appearance of the glasses.
The bridge in the frame of your glasses is large enough to be pinned together. Here the biggest difficulty is to drill exactly in the right place and coaxially the holes in the ends.
The pin needs to be taken faceted from any metal, even an ordinary 2 mm diameter stud with cut-off sides will do to make a square pin. Its length should be as long as possible based on the length of the jumper of the glasses. The edges are needed to exclude the rotation of the rims relative to each other.
Further, after the pin is made, its size is measured between the corners of the faces and holes are drilled in the frame with such a drill.For accuracy, you can first drill the holes with a smaller drill, and then re-drill to fit.
Then shorten the pin to the length of the sum of the depths of the drilled holes.
Now all that remains is to grease the pin abundantly with superglue and insert it into the holes. In a day, the glasses can be used. You can further strengthen the connection by fusing overhead wire sections from a paper clip on the inside.
I advise you to first practice on a piece of any plastic.I always do this, in case of doubts or for the first time performing a technological technique.
Metal glasses, the end of the temples that clings to the ears are covered with plastic. And now this plastic just began to rotate on the metal part. Remove – not removable. What can be done?
It is enough to heat it, the plastic will become plastic and settle, attaching to the metal.It is necessary to heat slowly and gradually so that the plastic does not melt. Especially if the heating is carried out on an open fire, for example, a gas burner.
You can also heat the metal part of the temple, but if it is covered with paint, then you need to be careful not to spoil it.
If there is a gap between the plastic cover and the temple, you can try pouring super glue into it. It is quite fluid and penetrates well into crevices.
The plate with the help of which the ear hook is attached to the frame arch has been broken. Is it possible to remove the crease from the earhook?
It will be possible to remove the broken part of the plate from the temple if its length does not exceed a couple of centimeters. If its length is longer and the screws in the photo are screwed into it, then it cannot be removed.
With a short length, it is necessary to remove a part of the plastic from the end so that a hole with a diameter of about 1 mm can be drilled in the metal plate to hook onto it when removing the plate.Then, using a soldering iron, heat the plate by touching it from the end and at the same time pulling it out. If the length of the plate is short, then after a couple of minutes of heating it will come out.
If the plate is steel and magnetised, then you can try to determine its length using a neodymium magnet.
But in this case, the length of the plate remaining in the loop is about 3 mm. Therefore, you can glue it in place with a rivet-secured epoxy resin.
To do this, insert the plate into the temple and drill through the plastic of the temple in it a through hole 0.8-1 mm in diameter for a rivet made from a piece of paper clip or pin.When all the mechanical preparation is done, assemble the structure, having previously lubricated the mating surfaces with epoxy resin and let it harden for a couple of hours. With careful wearing of glasses, they will last a long time after such repairs.
Above, in the paragraph “Repairing the frame of the glasses with flexes”, a similar repair of glasses is described. True, all the details there were metal.
Tell me, is it possible to fix such a breakdown? The bow fell off, and the hinge remained in the frame.
For fastening, the end of the bow was flattened and a hole drilled in it. If the metal is plastic and there is a tool, then you can try to rivet the end with a hammer on the anvil, drill a hole for the screw and give the flattened place the desired shape.
If the metal of the bow due to its high hardness does not lend itself to machining, then you can try to find a metal thin-walled tube with an inner diameter comparable to the diameter of the bow at the place of breakage, put it tightly on the bow, then rivet and drill a hole.
Another option is to look for cheap glasses with the same temples and use them for replacement.
90,000 translation, pronunciation, transcription, examples of use
I felt like my shirt was stuck to my back.
Why do you always stick at home?
Why are you always hanging around at home?
She could not stick it any longer.
She couldn’t take it anymore.
The oil keeps the pasta from sticking together.
Oil prevents pasta from sticking.
We’re a family, and we stick together no matter what.
We are a family and we stick together no matter what.
People often stick to their own imagination.
People often cling to what they themselves invent.
Don’t stick your tongue out, it’s rude!
Do not stick your tongue out, it is indecent / ugly /!
I could not stick the envelope.
I couldn’t seal the envelope.
He is still stuck with that lousy car.
He’s still messing with this unfortunate car.
Do you have the willpower to stick to the diet?
Do you have enough willpower to stick to your diet?
Don’t stick at small difficulties, but keep going.
Do not be discouraged by trifles, go ahead.
They collected sticks to start the fire.
They gathered sticks to light the fire.
We took some stick, and we gave some stick.
We were scolded a little, and we scolded a little.
The boy stuck his finger up his nose.
The boy put his finger in his nose.
Whatever your argument, I shall stick to my decision.
Despite all your arguments, I will remain unconvinced.
He got stuck with the bar bill.
He was forced to pay the bill at the bar.
Don’t let flies stick to your heels.
The farmer cut at the snake with a stick.
The farmer hit the snake with a stick.
He jabbed at the other player with his hockey stick.
He jabbed another player with his hockey stick.
She brandished a stick at the dog.
She threatened the dog with a stick.
The wheels stuck fast (= stuck completely) in the mud.
Wheels got stuck in mud.
He cut at the hedges with his stick.
He hit the fence with his cane.
The old man was urging the cows along with a stick.
The old man drove the cows with a stick.
He meditatively weighed his stick in his hand.
He thoughtfully weighed the stick in his hand.
How and how to glue the ceiling plinth
December 31, 2019
31 December 2019
One way to securely glue plastic (polyurethane) skirting boards, fillets, moldings, or other decorative framing (trim) to uneven walls or ceilings.
Those of us who have at least once been engaged in repairs on our own, trying to do everything with our own hands without outside help, know well how not just to perform sometimes elementary actions without having certain skills, dexterity and practice. Real miracle masters are another matter! Recognized stars of the Internet! Watching with admiration how super-people glue tiles and wallpaper, rearrange floors, paint, putty and nail everything they touch with a slight movement of their hand, you wonder how it would be for yourself … Wow! This is a very contagious matter and when starting to repair, we sincerely believe that we will succeed in this way, nevertheless, it is elementary.Why are we worse?
But in many processes there are more questions than answers. One of such problematic tasks that we faced turned out to be the fastening of a foam or plastic baseboard (fillet) to building structures. At first glance, the simplest task. But there are questions:
1. First and foremost – what kind of glue to use.
2. How to glue our polyurethane skirting board or molding on uneven, curved walls
3. How to glue a plastic ceiling skirting board to an uneven ceiling
4.How to fix the part to the ceiling (wall) until the glue is completely dry.
5. Can our decor be glued to wallpaper or water-based paint?
6. And won’t all this beauty fall off along with a layer of plaster.
To begin with, we have chosen an adhesive that has repeatedly proven itself to be very good and durable.
We also need a set of sponges – “Kitchen sponges”
And then everything is simple, we need to build a spacer from any stick, plinth tube or corner with a sponge seal so that the part we want to attach fits to any uneven (curved surface).
This method makes it possible for the glue to attract our decor during the drying process and fix it in the right position in the right place finally and irrevocably.
This photo resembling a picture of Santa Barbara is another option for fixing any decorative element to an uneven wall or ceiling. Behind it can hide a mount for hem panels or mezzanines, a wire for the phone, the Internet or a TV antenna, which can create additional difficulties.
As you can see, we used plastic or wooden skirting boards and sponges for temporary spacer. All this construction holds our decorative piece until the glue dries. In the future, all this can be removed and used for its intended purpose.
The temporary spacer can also be installed by focusing on the nearest wall, furniture or any other stable structure. Fortunately, the seal made from our washcloths leaves no residue.
The finished work looks like this.
In the same way, we sealed the glued wallpaper in the inner corner using a spacer and a cover from a plastic cable duct. The corner adhered perfectly after drying.
Probably, for a real master, all our tricks and quirks will seem ridiculous, but all methods are good to achieve the goal.The main thing is that all the installed decor details are held securely and, in general, are pleasing to the eye.
We hope that our method will help our readers in the not easy, but very creative process of renovating their home. Please describe to us your interesting and non-standard approaches to solving such problems.
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How to glue the roof to a cardboard house
How to make a cardboard house with your own hands: a master class with a step-by-step photo
What could be more interesting than how to make a cardboard house with your own hands and give it the look you like best? The cardboard house is a toy that every child can use.Someone will use it for role-playing games, someone – for staging small scenes and plays. But he will definitely not remain idle.
How to make a house out of cardboard
Before making a house, you need to cut out a blank from cardboard, which looks like two pairs of rectangles, to which the rectangles are attached narrower above and below. Pairs of basic rectangles alternate: first there is a wider rectangle, then – narrower, then again wide and narrow. At the first, wide rectangle, we make an additional narrow insert on the side.Bend the joints of the rectangles.
Cut through a window in the second wide rectangle. We turn the cut cardboard into shutters.
We assemble our workpiece, fix it with glue or adhesive tape. We leave the upper inserts free for now, do not bend them inward.
Putting the blank
Now we need natural materials. We take dry hollow sticks. We cut them into two parts. We will get logs that are very similar to real ones.
We cut the sticks
We lay out the walls of our house with logs.
We spread the logs
It is necessary to paste over each wall, if possible, fixing the logs as close to the corners as possible.
Lay out all the walls
Cut out two identical rectangles and a pair of identical triangles from the cardboard. We get the details of the roof.
We glue these parts to the upper inserts above the house.
We glue the parts of the roof
Before gluing the rectangular fragments, we connect them together.
We glue the roof
Then we take long velvet leaves.
We lay out rectangular parts of the roof with them – as with tiles or shingles.
We spread the roof with leaves.
We decorate the joint with a stick.
We decorate the joint with a stick
We take a small bundle of straw.
Cut it into straws of different lengths and lay out the triangular part of the roof with them.
Lay out the roof with straw.
Lay out the edges from sticks.
Edges made of sticks
Our house takes the form of a forest hut!
Glue sticks to the edges of the shutter.
Shutters made of sticks
And we start decorating. You can, for example, hang a physalis on the roof – it will look like a real lantern.
Near the window we hang a bunch of leaves or herbs.
Decoration of leaves
The hut is ready!
Do-it-yourself cardboard house How to make a house?
All that remains is to find a suitable place for her. You can, for example, place such a house in the garden, on the veranda, or between flower pots. You will get a miniature forest.
House in the garden
That’s all! We learned how to make a cardboard house for children not only interesting, but also unusual, making it look like a forest hut or hut.
House made of cardboard for children
House made of cardboard – ideas with photos
There are a lot of options for houses made of cardboard. From cardboard boxes you can make very stylish multi-storey houses for games with small figures.
Playhouses with several floors
This simple house is easy to glue, focusing on the schematic drawings below.
A simple house with a diagram
Here is a diagram of the simplest house.
A simple cardboard house
A cardboard house reviews:
How to make a cardboard house for a child
All children dream of toy houses, which they clumsily try to build from what is at hand. And sometimes parents do not even realize that there is material in the house from which you can make a wonderful house for children’s games – this is ordinary cardboard. Without much effort, you can get a beautiful and cozy home from waste material – a favorite place for children to play.Decorating the house, kids will develop their imaginations. The toy house can become for them a spaceship or a princess castle, involving them in an exciting adventure. Collecting a toy dwelling, children learn to clean the house. Once secluded in the house, they can organize a secret society or tell scary stories to each other. Making a house out of cardboard with your own hands will not be difficult. Children should definitely be involved in the construction process. It is very interesting and exciting! Helping in construction, children will gain their first architectural knowledge and skills.Materials and tools Do-it-yourself cardboard box does not require large material investments. Materials and tools for construction can be found in any family’s house:
- Cardboard boxes of different sizes, glue gun.
- Scissors, sharp knife, pencils, markers, markers, tape.
- Acrylic or watercolor, gouache, glitter and various ornaments.
How to work The sequence of building a house from cardboard with your own hands can be different, depending on what kind of architectural structure you want to create.But the general algorithm can be described as follows:
- Find a sketch or diagram on the Internet, print it out and get started. If you are an experienced craftsman, you can draw a sketch of the house yourself.
- Cut out the parts according to the diagram and glue them in the correct sequence with tape.
- Together you will be happy to decorate your building.
Helpful hints As you can see, it is not difficult to build a house out of cardboard, and if his family joins his project, you will certainly get a real architectural masterpiece.We want to share with you some secrets that will make your home even better.
- It will be great if you have corrugated board in your boxes.
- Cardboard cutting work may only be performed by adults.
- For the stability of the house, it is advisable to find cardboard pipes. You can ask them at a roll store. If you don’t find it, make a cardboard tube by simply rolling it into a roll.
- Try to keep the door of the house open to the outside so that the children have more space to play.
- Do not throw away small cardboard boxes. From them you can make a beautiful doll castle for a princess or a garage for a car.
There are many options for do-it-yourself cardboard houses. You yourself can come up with something interesting. We offer several master classes and original ideas for creating houses that you can easily build with your children. A folding cardboard house with your own hands – a master class We will need: a large cardboard box, scissors, a sharp knife, scotch tape.Step one: cut the top of the large box as shown in the diagram. Set aside the cut pieces. We glue the side seams of the box with tape. Step two: turn the box and connect its parts in the places indicated by the yellow arrow in the diagram. We make a roof from the cut out parts, connecting the parts with tape in the places indicated by the arrows. Attach the roof to the side parts. Step three: Cut out the cardboard at the location indicated by the yellow dotted lines in the diagram. We connect the parts indicated by the yellow arrows.A comfortable and functional home is ready. It can be disassembled, played and folded at any time. A cardboard house with a door – a master class We need: a large cardboard box, a sharp knife, scotch tape, acrylic paints or gouache. Order:
- Cut out a diagram of the roof and side parts of the house from cardboard.
- Putting the house together and glue the joints of the side seams with tape.
- We glue the roof and cut out the door on three sides, as shown in the picture.
- Window can be cut or painted.
Do-it-yourself milling from cardboard – a master class We will need: a large cardboard box, a knife, scotch tape, a wooden stick, a self-tapping screw, rope, acrylic paints. How to work:
- Fold the box as shown in the picture. Cut out the triangular pediments from the sides, and make holes for the window and pipe on the roof.
- According to the pattern we make a cardboard tube.
- At the tip of a wooden stick, screw in a screw and attach it to the roof with a string.
- Make a screw according to the diagram and, together with the screw, attach it to the stick so that it rotates.
- Cut out two triangular windows at the end and attach the pipe.
- We paint the mill with bright colors.
DIY house for Barbie – master class We need: two small cardboard boxes, a knife, scotch tape, glue, acrylic paints, colored paper. How to work:
- We take two boxes, cut out two windows on the side and glue them together, as shown in the first figure.
- Glue the shelves, the back wall and the roof made of two pieces of cardboard.
- Cut out beautiful windows, then paint the resulting house with paints or paste over with colored paper.
Cardboard house for a cat – master class You can make a wonderful cat house for your pet from cardboard. We will need: two not very large boxes, a knife, scotch tape, glue. Order:
- We make two cat-sized houses according to the scheme given in the second lesson. Only one of the houses should be without a roof, doors are not required.
- Cut out the windows as shown in the diagram and glue one house to another.We hope your cat will enjoy her new home.
Interesting ideas of cardboard houses with your own hands
- A cottage with a starry sky can be made from cardboard boxes with skillful hands.
- Amazingly beautiful cardboard dollhouses, if pasted over with bright cloth.
- Unusual architectural structures made of cardboard are simply amazing.
- A transforming dollhouse can be made of cardboard according to the attached diagram.
We hope that our lessons, ideas and tips will help you create wonderful toy houses. You will certainly receive a joyful mood and indescribable emotions as a result of your creativity.
How To Make A Cardboard Dollhouse – Red Ted Art
This week I wanted to show off our Cardboard Doll House. Of course, there are MANY ways to make your own dollhouse and this is how we made it… A while ago I bought some wooden dolls for Pip Squeak’s birthday, as well as a random set of kitchen furniture. It was one of those “auspicious” purchases, and I really didn’t think what we were going to do with them. As Pip Squick’s birthday approached, I realized we needed a home! I always wanted to make a dollhouse for my children (see “7 plus 1”), and I got the opportunity.
First published December 2011
Materials: One large box.Lots of smaller boxes (to cut open and build rooms), glue / hot glue gun, acrylic paint (doesn’t crumble), remnants of brown paper …
Besides acrylic paint, this house was made from things I had in my house : old brown paper, old fabric (the Englishman’s shirts were good bedding; my old skirt turned into a rug, etc.).
Unfortunately, taking pictures is not at every stage. I was more absorbed in creating a house than photographing.So you have to hear what I did!
I had one big box … what’s next.
1) I started by painting everything white – I thought this would give me a neat background to work with.
2) Then we placed the “6 main rooms” – using the two parts of the map that went from top to bottom. First we marked out the doors and cut them out with a scalpel. The trimming on 3 sides and the 4th side is slightly notched so that it opens more neatly. Then we glued the 2 pieces together, making a slight fold at the top and bottom.
3) Then we had 2 cards going across. The first part is now the “bathrooms” and “map rooms” floors. We cut half the map and half the wall with the door and connected them. Then he glued the ends to the supporting walls. We repeated this on the other side. This is how we decorate the “pink bedroom” and the floors on the balconies. I’m not saying it was the smartest or smartest way to do it, but it works for us. I put some kind of “support” behind the walls and under the balcony to align it all.The coasters were just a few coffee stirrers fixed in place with a hot glue gun. They worked wonders!
The main house is there.
4) For the loft, I cut out the center wall and cut it all the way to the top (see image, I remembered taking this one) and then using a hot glue gun I attached the roof map to the wall and side of the house.
And now the fun part! Decorate your cardboard dollhouse with your own hands!
5) WALLS: I combed the house for scraps of brown paper and old fabrics.I scanned a couple of fabrics into a printer and printed them on paper (wallpaper for kitchen and living room). I also printed some pictures of books for the bookshelf.
6) FLOORS: The lovely Christine Mosler gave me some brochures with “leftover” floor coverings, so most dollhouses look like wood floors – either solid or patchwork. I think I like the patchwork quilt better!
7) DOORS: Painted all doors brown, then added a black outline.For the pens, I used a wire and two beads. Wrap the wire around the beads to secure it in place. I love our doors.
8. ADDITIONAL: The photo above also shows the “radiator” that we cut out of the magazine … it is in the bathroom. I also cut some fires out of magazines and lamps. Over time, I will probably add more of these small details – here is a vase, there is a potted plant. I also printed out some of the “illustrations” from our post with mini magnets. I used some of Red Ted’s drawings as well as a family portrait.I really want to photograph the “doll family” and add that too.
9) BALCONY: I also love our balcony very much … I made a “railing” out of 3 pieces of cards joined together and then glued them in place with hot glue. Then everything was painted white. After drying, I added roses to the wall: I drew a pot and stems and added roses from tissue paper.
10) FURNITURE: Now bit by bit, it’s really fun – adding furniture. As mentioned, I already bought the kitchen… but we made a kitchen sink out of an old iphone box. We “made” a bath out of an iphone box lid. And I made some beds and chairs out of cardboard (“pattern book”). I made pillows and blankets. We still have a long way to go. I think we need a bigger sofa and a stronger rocking chair. The bathroom definitely needs a toilet (a very important feature) and I need to make some towels. I also want to make utensils for the kitchen and maybe a toy or two and some potted plants.See this space!
DIY basic cardboard dollhouse
Rooms in the attic
Get the template for making beds here
We still need to add a lot of details, but I think this is the most interesting Middle room downstairs (currently a corridor ) can become a dining room or a study … I’ll see how Pip Squick decides to play! More details could be added in the attic rooms and we could use some wardrobes, wardrobes, etc.D. … But we will do this in the coming months. We are gradually building our dollhouse out of cardboard!
And then we play. Many.
What will YOUR cardboard dollhouse look like ?! What will YOU have in this?
Make this powerful HDTV antenna out of cardboard
Continue reading. You are about to discover the most incredible thing you could ever expect to do with cardboard.
As an HDTV owner, you are looking for the easiest and cheapest way to get channels on your local network.You may have realized that you do not need to pay your cable TV provider for this. Crisp, clear, digital high definition signals are available free of charge from local TV channels: all you need is a suitable antenna.
But HDTV antennas can be expensive: $ 40 to $ 70 for a good home model. This is one of the best HDTV antenna designs ever, and also the least expensive because you make it yourself out of cardboard and foil.
Here’s a secret that you won’t hear from an antenna manufacturer: TV signals themselves don’t care what the antenna is made of, provided the electrical conductors are correctly positioned.With this antenna, it is aluminum foil. As outrageous as it sounds, this antenna can be as efficient and powerful – or even more – like any other antenna, regardless of cost or design.
I took some of the best antenna designs I could find and modified, experimented, built and rebuilt until I had the best HDTV antenna I have ever tested. They’re just made of cardboard.
Don’t let simplicity fool you.This is a powerful antenna that easily outperforms the $ 50 HDTV antenna. Refer to the yellow diagram below for details. You can build it in just 13 steps.
- Scissors and pocket knife / cutter.
- Ruler or tape measure.
- Stapler or nuts / bolts (see instructions below).
- About three square feet of cardboard or foam. The longest size is 14 inches.(I’m using cardboard from an old computer box for this example.)
- Aluminum foil.
- Cable, 75 ohm coaxial or 300 ohm twin wire.
To connect the antenna to the receiver you will need a wire and adapter called a balun (this word means “balanced-unbalanced.” For HDTV, your receiver is almost certainly a 75 ohm unbalanced connection. Antennas, including this design, are typically balanced to 300 ohms.So, there are two approaches to achieving the correct connection type and two types of balun:
- The first way is to connect a two-wire (flat wire) 300 ohm wire to the antenna and add a balanced resistor at the end of the wire that connects to the TV.
- The second method is to connect the balun directly to the antenna and run a 75 ohm coaxial cable (round wire) from the antenna to the TV. Both approaches work fine.
Antenna baluns (also called TV matching transformers) and wires can be found at places like Home Depot, Radio Shack, eBay auctions and even department stores.
Most HDTV broadcasts take place in the UHF TV band, so this antenna is optimized for these frequencies.
Antenna placement is key. The double bow antenna can be hung on the wall, but you really need to point it towards the TV towers, you will almost certainly have to experiment with placement and rotation until you find a spot where your receiver picks up a good signal.
In some cases, especially if you are in an aluminum siding house, you may not be able to get an adequate signal indoors.In this case, you still have several options.
- First, place the antenna in the attic to avoid the influence of the aluminum siding and route the cable to your device.
- The second is to hang the antenna out of the window. Generally, this is not what you want to do with a cardboard antenna, but if you add additional cardboard mounts, place the antenna in a plastic bag and design a sturdy mount. That way the antenna can last for quite some time, and if it gets blown away by the next hurricane, what have you lost? Materials for a few cents!
How to glue blinds to a plastic window
How the bracket and horizontal structure are attached
After installing the reinforced-plastic windows, you don’t want to spoil them by drilling holes for the headset. And it’s not just about maintaining the integrity of the structure. It makes sense to install blinds on plastic windows without drilling because if you want to change the design, you will need new fasteners, and the window will be broken.
Besides the aesthetic reason, there are other, more practical ones:
- The tightness is maintained.In winter, you don’t have to seal the holes with putty.
- In the event of a defect, the manufacturer replaces the window, but if it is broken, then this will not be possible.
- In the absence of professional tools , blinds can be installed on windows without them. The choice of accessories on the market is large – both for heavy models and for light ones.
- Living in a rented apartment does not allow you to equip your home at your own discretion.
Vertical or horizontal blinds on plastic windows are installed in order to protect the room from prying eyes, excessively bright sunlight, to reduce heating in the summer.
With the help of conventional brackets you can hang:
- rolls of any model;
- horizontal – plastic or aluminum;
- accordion curtains – pleated.
It is quite possible to select fasteners that can withstand the weight of the structure. You just need to consider all the options available.
Types of fasteners without drilling
It should be noted that fasteners without drilling are less reliable than those that are fixed with self-tapping screws.If you cannot make holes in the frame, then you will have to adapt and look for reliable options from the available ones.
The weight of the blinds plays a role. When the purpose of the installation is to reduce the amount of light, and not just decorative, then it is better to choose a lighter model. People who live in the apartment temporarily do not care what color the product is on the windows – if only it does not shine in the eyes in the morning.
Mounting for blinds , which does not need to be drilled, can be found in any building supermarket, because these types are most on sale.They are invisible, easy to install, but each type has nuances that you need to know.
Lightweight blinds can be attached to tape . To make them last longer, before gluing, you need to:
- degrease the surfaces with alcohol;
- make sure that the frame is warm (in winter it is better to use a hairdryer during installation).
Important! The disadvantage of scotch tape is that it will not withstand bulky products.
Holds lightweight models with plastic lamellas for three years. If you do everything right, then the curtains will be replaced due to old age, and not because they fell and wrinkled.
You will have to carefully clean the plates, do not pull on the bottom. For cleaning, use a weak vacuum cleaner mode or special brushes with a long soft bristle to remove dust on the windowsill, and from there with a rag.
When landing on double-sided tape, the lower part of the blinds touches objects on the windowsill – for example, flowers.If there is an animal in the apartment, it can catch on the hanging part and the blinds will fall off. Cats love to sit on the windowsill, so the bottom of the product will also have to be strengthened.
Are there any marks after removing the tape? Remain, but they can be removed with a cloth soaked in vegetable oil. If it does not help, then there is a special solution intended for cleaning parts from rust, which is called WD-40. It can be bought at a car dealership – craftsmen use it when disassembling machine components. He will deal with the marks on the plastic.
Prices for double-sided tape
Magnets on double-sided tape
Neodymium magnets are used. They are 10 times more powerful than conventional ones, therefore withstand any curtain model. They are used for upper and lower cornices.
If you install the fasteners only on the reclining part of the window, then the lower one sags when opening, which is not very convenient when there are some objects on the windowsill.
The best option is to put the upper part on the cornices, and the lower part on magnets and adhesive tape.In this case, the lower part will last longer, as it will not sag and interfere with cleaning.
Brackets will select metal and plastic, depending on the severity of the blinds. This piece is an L-shaped hook. The part is put on the upper part of the window in the open position. Holders are inserted into special grooves and blinds are hung on them.
Fastening of horizontal blinds to plastic windows using plastic brackets is possible with a low weight of the product.For larger models, metal parts are needed.
Tip! Metal brackets are more expensive, but more reliable.
If the fastening weakens over time, it can be tightened. The metal mounts are visible on the white plastic window because they differ in color. But they are used constantly, changing only the blinds. For permanent use, it is recommended to sacrifice design for durability.
Blinds can fall off, fall off and lose their attractive appearance.It is absolutely impossible to wash them. We’ll have to change, and this is an extra cost.
Often used universal bracket for PVC windows without drilling . The advantage of this part is that it can be screwed to the walls or ceiling without damaging the window plastic.
The wall is easier to repair, if necessary, plastered over with plaster and painted over. The part has 4 holes, two of which are for the wall and two for the ceiling. If you do not want to risk curtains and you cannot drill a window, then there is only one way out – a universal bracket.
Prices for blinds
Window blinds installation instructions
Fastening without drilling is used both on hinged sashes of plastic windows, and on blind ones. For flaps, a bracket is used, for deaf – double-sided tape. Every stage of the work is important – from the assembly of the blinds themselves to the final installation of the magnets below.
How to attach the blinds to the scotch tape
The procedure is as follows, if the sash is blind:
- First, install the adhesive tape correctly.Prepare the surface with acetone or alcohol, warm it up.
- Assemble the bracket. A detailed assembly manual is usually included in the kit.
- Marks along the width so as not to peel it off from the Velcro again, as this reduces the quality of the joint. Consequently, such a structure will be held in half the size.
- Glue the brackets along the markings and insert the upper strip of the blinds.
The bottom part may remain loose.
How to hang your blinds on plastic brackets
You will need at least two plastic brackets to install the blinds. Installation of blinds on windows using plastic brackets is as follows:
- marking is done with a tape measure in the place where the hooks will stand;
- blinds are assembled according to the scheme in the instructions;
- brackets must not only be attached to the frame, but also fixed on adhesive tape; for this, the surfaces are wiped with an alcohol-containing liquid and dried;
- then small pieces of adhesive tape are cut out, the protective coating is removed from one side;
- plastic bracket connects to the holder;
- a preliminary fitting is made where exactly the bracket will stand, the position of the curtain is determined;
- place in pencil;
- the film is removed from the bracket and put on the window sash;
- you need to press hard so that the tape adheres thoroughly;
- Snap the clamp to the extreme position;
- the second side is mounted in the same way;
- After fastening on both sides, the chain mechanism is hung up and the roller with blinds is put on.
Installation is complete. Plastic parts require careful handling during work so as not to damage them, so the whole process is done slowly and carefully.
Mounting of horizontal blinds
Horizontal blinds for plastic windows can be made of any material – natural or synthetic. Can be matched to any design. The weight of the structures is different.
How to attach a heavy model without drilling? One of the options is not to fasten without drilling, because this is unreliable, and the product can be damaged.Lightweight plastic or aluminum can be installed using already known methods – glued to tape or hung on a bracket.
Fastening roller blinds
Roller blinds are most suitable for fastening without damaging the window. They are made of dense fabrics, therefore, by weight, they are suitable for fastenings. There is no doubt about the quality of roller blinds – they do not let light through, although you can choose transparent and translucent options. Another advantage is the presence of various impregnations – antistatic, antibacterial. To prevent the roller blinds from deforming, there are catches at the edges – guides. The edge of the fabric is on the inside for a neat appearance.
Important! Rolled products for plastic windows have different colors, they can be combined with any interior so that they do not stand out, but create coziness in the room.
Roll copies can be attached to the brackets in the grooves, while additionally fixing the fastener piece with adhesive tape. How blinds are attached – it was described above.
Useful video: installation of blinds without self-tapping screws
Plastic windows can be successfully decorated with curtains without damaging the window frame by drilling. It is not difficult to choose a model that is suitable for the weight of the fasteners and is visually attractive. The choice of window curtains is huge, both in quality and in colors.
How to glue plastic to wood
Gluing plastic to something can be tricky, as its smooth, non-porous surface does not adhere well to the glue.Different adhesive formulas use different capabilities that are not interchangeable for individual applications. The correct choice of glue is more important than the process of gluing wood to plastic.
Super-Hold glue is one of the fastest and most reliable ways to adhere plastic to wood.Also known as cyanoacrylate glue, Little glue is of great importance . It is a good choice for gluing plastic to wood.
Fast work with super-fix adhesive.Test fittings before adding glue; they should fit snugly together. Shape or sand the parts to get a good contact surface. A surface that is too smooth or too rough can reduce the bonding performance.
- Sets in 5-60 seconds. Cures in about two hours.
- Available in various thicknesses for different applications.
- Transparent plastic may appear hazy when dry.
- Instantly adheres skin to skin.
- Cleans with acetone (nail polish remover)
Hot glue is applied with a glue gun. It is one of the best all-round adhesives for wood and plastic when surfaces are uneven or inconsistent. Hot glue guns require glue sticks, when the gun is hot, it melts the stick. Pull the trigger to apply the glue through the small nozzle.Different types of glue sticks melt at different temperatures and are used for different purposes. For most plastics, high temperature glue sticks work best.
Prepare your items in advance and make sure they fit where you need them. Apply glue in dots or lines for larger parts. Work quickly as the glue hardens quickly when cooled.
- Quickly configurable.
- Thick consistency with strong initial tack.
- Not as strong as super resistant adhesive.
- applicator allows for embossing, beading and embroidery.
Contact cement is commonly used in industry. It is commonly used for permanently adhering plastic sheets to chipboard or plywood, such as in countertop construction. Use it for large projects, applying equal parts to both surfaces with a brush or roller.
Always check parts before adding glue. Once the cement is applied to both parts and the parts are in contact with each other, the position cannot be changed. After the cement is dry to the touch, place dowels or sticks on the surface of large flat pieces. Place the plastic on top of the dowels to temporarily prevent the bonding surfaces from sticking together. After installation, pull the dowels out, allowing the plastic to settle gently on the cemented surface below.Use a rubber mallet or roller to apply pressure to complete the bond.
- Bonds instantly .
- Remains sticky.
- Radiates flammable vapors – use only in well ventilated areas.
- Clean with lacquer thinner.
- One of the most durable adhesives.
- Suitable for large projects.
Epoxy is a particularly useful adhesive for bonding small plastic parts to wood, glass, metal and other materials used in crafts and other fields. Mix equal parts of resin and hardener in small quantities according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Dries hard, almost glassy.
- Withstands extreme temperature changes.
- Expensive when purchased in large quantities.
- Fills gaps on uneven porous surfaces.
- Polyurethane formulation for high humidity applications.
After mixing the two components, apply a little sparingly to both parts.You are working with smaller quantities that dry more slowly than other adhesives, so you have a few minutes to arrange them as needed. This is not always necessary, but adding pressure or clamps will increase the strength of the connection. Let it dry overnight.
- Coarse the surfaces to be bonded with sandpaper to allow the adhesive to set and set.
- Apply adhesive evenly. Wipe off excess immediately.
- Clean tips and applicators after each application.
- Replace caps and caps to prevent adhesive spillage and drying.
- Clean surfaces and allow to dry before application.
Adhesives are not equal. The options within each category often differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. Read Precautions on Labels. on Recommended Handling Procedures, Toxicity, Adequate Ventilation, and Application in Various Environments and Temperatures.
How to remove adhesive from plastic, glass and wood
- Be sure to test your chosen removal method on a small area to make sure there is no damage.
- Prevention May Be Your Best Choice! Remember to cover all surfaces when doing crafts and crafts so that you don’t have to apply any glue removal methods in the first place.
- Accidents can easily happen, so be well prepared with the various adhesive removal methods so that you can act as soon as a spill occurs.
Adhesive, whether in a tube, sticker, or adhesive tape and labels, is an extremely useful and sometimes indispensable household product, especially for handicrafts and crafts. This comprehensive guide to removing adhesive from plastic, glass and wood will show you everything you need to know about how to remove adhesive from everyday household surfaces, from removing labels from cans to removing stubborn splashes of cured adhesive. We also have tips for removing glue and super glue from clothes!
How to remove adhesive from plastic
Removing adhesive from plastic is the case when you need to find a product that can destroy the adhesion of the adhesive, but is soft enough to ensure that the color of the plastic will not fade and the surface will not be damaged.
Before you start, test any product you plan to use in an inconspicuous place to make sure both the adhesive and the surface you are cleaning work well.
How to remove glue from glass
Knowing how to effectively remove glue from glass comes in handy when you want to reuse jars or clean glue stains from mirrors, windows and glassware.
- To remove sticky labels from glass jars and wine bottles, soak them in warm soapy water overnight.Then scrub them with a dishwashing sponge or scrape them off with an old card, being careful not to scratch the surface. If you find particularly stubborn sticky spots on the cans, wipe the sticky areas liberally with oil or Vaseline, such as Vaseline. If the label doesn’t budge, you can try wiping it with acetone or alcohol-based nail polish remover, but remember to follow the safety instructions and use them in a well-ventilated area. If you are concerned about surface damage or discoloration, test any of these cleaning solutions in a separate area first.
What is the best glue to stick to this? Glue Guide Chart
It is important to find out which type of glue to use for gluing one material to another. Since there are an infinite number of combinations of things that can be tied together, some kind of guidance is needed. For example, we needed to glue a piece of wood to metal that was supposed to support over 100 pounds. We needed to find the absolute best type of glue to use to bond these two different materials together.We ended up finding a guideline for gluing just about any material. It’s called This To That, and it will show you the most recommended type of glue to glue things together. Below we cover common materials and what kind of glue or glue to use to hold them together.
Adhesive guide for all types of materials – what type of adhesive to use on
How to remove Gorilla Glue from plastic
Polyurethane adhesive, the traditional Gorilla Glue, is similar in composition to expanding polyurethane foam.If you’ve ever had this foam on your hands or clothes, you know how difficult it is to remove it, and the same can be said for Gorilla Glue. Gorilla Glue Co. also produces super glue, better known as cyanoacrylate glue. The best way to remove any product from plastic is to use a sharp blade.
Removing Gorilla Glue
Polyurethane adhesive reacts with moisture in the air, expanding and hardening to a semi-solid consistency. Once the curing process is complete, you cannot undo it and no solvent can dissolve the adhesive.However, if you can get to the glue before it hardens, you can wipe off most of it with solvent.
Dampen a rag with acetone, rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits to remove fresh Gorilla Glue from plastic. Alcohol and mineral spirits are generally safe, but acetone will dissolve some plastics; test the solvent on an inconspicuous area before use.
Wipe off the adhesive with a cloth soaked in solvent.
Do not try to rub off the adhesive with water. Water speeds up the curing process of the polyurethane glue – any residue you leave will harden quickly.
Remove the cured Gorilla Glue from the hard plastic surface with a razor knife or chisel. In most cases, this is easy – polyurethane becomes foamy as it cures and is relatively easy to cut and break. You can also pinch the dried glue with your fingers or pliers – this is probably the best way to remove it from soft plastic.
Clean surface with lubricant spray and abrasive sponge. The lubricant weakens the adhesive bond, making it easier to wipe off the adhesive.
Removing Gorilla Super Glue
Cyanoacrylate glue has an important drawback – acetone dissolves it. Unfortunately, acetone can also dissolve the plastic to which the adhesive is glued, so it is important to conduct a test, especially if the plastic in question is polystyrene from which plastic is made containers, disposable razors and other common items.
If acetone is safe to use, apply it to the glue with a cotton swab, wait for it to work and wipe off the glue with a rag. If unsafe, scrape off the adhesive with a razor knife, chisel, or other tool suitable for the surface in question.
. 90,000 types of mounts, brackets and curtain rods, support-stick for a wall model, how to attach to a crib or wall
The canopy will be an original addition to any bed and the best protection option for the owner of the sleeping place.Thanks to this device, annoying insects will not be able to get into your bed, as well as large particles of debris and dust will not get into your bed. Today, this piece of furniture is back in fashion. Our article is devoted to the holders of this design and the options for its attachment.
The canopy is an imitation of a canopy over the bed of both a baby and an adult. This canopy can be just a decoration, but it can also be an actively functioning device, that is, closing the bed from prying eyes.
A special holding device allows you to firmly fix the canopy structure over the sleeping area. The moving mechanism of the product will provide an opportunity to fix it at the desired and most convenient height for you. The woven canopy can also be called one of the main elements of this device. It guarantees maximum comfort and protects you or your child from excessively bright light, various midges and litter getting into the bed.
The canopy itself is often made of lightweight materials, half transparent. Fabric awnings are usually decorated with catchy inserts, as well as bows or delicate lace.
Methods and variants of installation
There are 3 most common options for high-quality fixing of the device for children’s (and not only) beds.
- In the middle of the long side of the bed. The canopy is mounted on the wall next to the baby’s cot.
- Placement at the head of the bed. This is the most frequently used option as it is ideal for both very young toddlers and older children. In this case, the base with the fabric is attached at the top of the bed, and it does not block the baby’s view of the room while awake.
- On all sides of the bed on which the baby sleeps. Here, the design is based on a frame that is attached to the stock at its 4 corners, the canopy is fixed at once by 4 holders. This type of fabric fastener is suitable for those beds in which there are no sides to protect the crumbs from falling.
When deciding exactly how to fix the product on the baby’s crib or on your bed, you should definitely take into account their location in the space of the room in relation to the walls, doors and various pieces of furniture.This information will help you quickly determine the method of fixing the product. Lightweight fabric will be attached to the holder, and it, in turn, can be attached:
- to the side wall; 90,036 90,025 on the past;
- at the head; 90 036 90 025 to the wall of the room itself;
- on the floor;
- on the ceiling.
Consider the 4 most popular types of canopy designs.
- Bed options. They attach directly to the bed and often come with a cradle for an infant in one set. There is a separate instruction for them, thanks to which you can quickly assemble the product yourself, secure it with high quality and easily hang the canopy.
- Wall. This type of clamps will allow you to choose a canopy of any desired length.
- Floor standing. The device is installed on the floor, if necessary, it can be easily carried along with the bed to any other place in your home.
- Ceiling. It is also one of the most popular types of holders for children. They allow you to use the largest canopy in length.
Bed attachment options are also called the most mobile ones, they are very popular with young parents. This can be explained by the fact that they are attached only to the crib. Neither the walls of the room, nor its ceiling will be used in this process, for this reason there will be no marks on them, which is especially important if you have recently completed repairs.Also, the positive side of this model is its amazing lightness. It weighs practically nothing and at the same time is easily fixed. True, such a device also has a number of disadvantages. For starters, it’s worth mentioning its mobility. If you cling to this holder all the time with your hands, then one day you can completely drop it.
Already grown up kid will obviously want to pull the holder towards himself out of curiosity.This action does not pose any particular danger if the holder is light, but anyway its fall is undesirable. In addition, the mobile holders do not carry any aesthetic burden, as they are entirely under the canopy.
Stationary devices are fixed to the ceiling or wall. If this device has to be removed in order to strengthen it in a different place, then after it there will be clearly visible traces on the surfaces, so this place will need to be decorated with something, which can be very costly.Therefore, if the parents opted for wall or ceiling holders, furniture is not rearranged in the crumbs’ room for a long time until the child grows up and wants to change himself.
The positive features of stationary products are that they are the most reliable. They can be easily fixed on the surface without much difficulty. On their basis, almost real decorations can be built from a canopy. At the same time, the shape of the cape will be perfectly preserved.A stationary device is almost impossible to swing, even if the child himself wants to do it.
In children’s stores you can choose and purchase universal holders in the form of brackets. A holder called “Toddler” will help you hang a small canopy anywhere you choose. Thanks to the versatility of the attachment, it can be placed either on the side of the crib or at the head of the bed.This device has optimal parameters and can be installed in any configuration of baby cots. This kind of device is perfect for a round or square bed.
The support is absolutely reliable and has increased strength, because it is made of high quality materials.With the help of this holder, you can easily and quickly enough hang a stylish canopy over the bed of a little man and thus protect it from insects, dust, as well as dangerous drafts when ventilating the room. The holder called “Chamomile” is installed on the back of the baby’s bed. The height of the device can be easily adjusted. The holder is suitable for any model and the cots themselves and capes. After mounting the holder, the product will be able to protect the baby from various unpleasant factors and will give the room a special touch of charm.A bed with this kind of canopy will look very cozy.
The holder for the cape can be shaped like:
- rectangular (with U-shaped or L-shaped bracket).
It is difficult to answer the question which of these types is the most preferable, because they are all quite popular and are used in various interiors to organize a cozy bed. Holders for canopy are made mainly of aluminum – this is an extremely light and inexpensive material that perfectly fulfills all its functions, but often plastic holders are also found in stores.Holders made of plastic and aluminum are the choice for children’s beds, but if you dream of arranging a canopy over the matrimonial bed, then it is better to choose a stronger material for these purposes.
When buying a holder, you should make sure that it is made from environmentally friendly materials and is completely harmless. If it is made of plastic, then the product should not have a strong odor. A metal device should be as durable as possible.
Build and install
First you need to find a place to mount a sturdy tripod. It is selected taking into account the location of the bed relative to the wall. The next step is to choose the method of attaching the canopy to the tripod (with a solid or a breakaway ring).
- In the first version, the canopy will be attached to the tripod thanks to special Velcro and straps, and the fastening point itself can be hidden behind the frills.
- Version with breakaway ring. The bar of the ringlet must be threaded into a special sleeve provided in the canopy. You will need to remove the loop from the tripod, then spread its edges. They are pulled into the sleeve, and so the material is attached to the loop, forming beautiful folds. The edges of the loop, which remained outside, are connected to each other with an elastic band and they are lowered into a tripod.
Next, all parts of the base are fastened and carefully corrected. The entire installation is fixed to the headboard with special screws. The screws are hidden under the decorative caps. It is imperative to check the resulting device, how strong it is so that the product does not suddenly fall on the sleeping person if he accidentally touches the edge of the curtain with his hand in a dream.One of the most interesting options for attaching a canopy is the use of forged products that are attached to the wall. The forged product in the form of a semicircle is neatly mounted into the wall, and the canopy itself is attached to it with the help of strings. The fasteners should be as reliable as possible so that the big or small owner of the room cannot pull the device out of the wall.
Step-by-step mounting instructions are as follows.
- First you need to free the perimeter around the crib.
- Marks the location on the ceiling where the cornice will be installed. In its capacity, you can choose a metal strip that will be attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws.
- Then it will be possible to attach the material to the cornice using ribbons and Velcro.
- The attachment point is hidden by another piece of drapery or a special lambrequin. The length of the canopy can be adjusted using stylish clamping elements or beautiful bows.
The method of fixing the product to the ceiling is suitable if the latter is durable. It is possible to mount a makeshift cornice on a concrete ceiling. But this option is better not to use if you have plasterboard ceilings. The kid can accidentally pull on the canopy, hang on it, accidentally catch on or just touch it. The base of the cornice with part of the ceiling can fall, which can injure the baby and disrupt the appearance of the room.
To create the simplest canopy you will need:
- 2 wooden sticks (slats) and 1 block 1 meter long;
- screws and dowels;
- piece of fabric 1.5×5 m.
- we select a place at the head of the bed where the device will be fixed;
- We leave marks on the wall covering 1 meter higher than the center of the head of the bed;
- then holes are drilled in the designated place and, using dowels, the bar is attached to the wall;
- at the ends of the timber are perpendicularly fastened with self-tapping laths;
- you can throw fabric over the finished structure and distribute it as you like.
When choosing a canopy for the baby’s bed and the fasteners to it, pay special attention to how safe and reliable they are. The standard height of the product is usually 1.5 meters, but it can be easily adjusted using special mounts. They allow you to move the structure to the required height and guarantee the most restful and sweet sleep.
How to install a canopy on a crib with your own hands, see the next video.