No Pads, No Problem: Five Drills To Improve Fundamentals
Even if it’s the off-season, you can always get better — you don’t even need pads or a full practice! Thankfully, there are tons of drills that can improve your defensive line play through strength and conditioning sessions. The following drills are ones that you can use to improve get-off reaction, hand speed, explosiveness, separation, leverage, and pass rush without the use of helmets and shoulder pads. Whether you’re training inside during the winter or outside during the spring, these drills can be applied at any place and time during your football training session.
Drill #1: The Ball Drop
Purpose: Improve reaction time during the first step of get-off with a secondary emphasis on shooting hands to attack a blocker.
Equipment: You’ll need least two tennis balls or any type of rubber ball, no bigger than the palm of your hand, which also provides a good bounce.
Set-Up: Establish a visible line of scrimmage. Separate the defensive line into two single file lines at your line of scrimmage. The coach stands between both lines of players, each 4 yards away, with one tennis ball in each hand.
Execution
Then the coach will extend both of his arms out to the side at shoulder height with a ball in each hand. The two defensive linemen who are ready to go will get into a three point stance crowding the line of scrimmage. Each player will be lined up directly in front of the coach’s left and right hand. Both players will key the hand directly in front of them and when the coach opens his hands to drop the balls both players will fire out of their stances. After firing out, each player must shoot their hands out, lock the elbows and catch the ball after one bounce.
Coaching Point
Continue to emphasize a good first step and a flat back for pad level. The way I teach a good first step to my defensive line is by telling them that their first step should always replace the down hand (same hand same foot concept). If pad level becomes too high, start dropping the balls a little closer to the ground. As you see improvement, back up a yard. If you are outside, use a track if available or push the balls to the grass instead of just dropping them.
Drill #2: Shield Hand Violence
Purpose
Improve hand speed from the ground and locking out an opponent.
Equipment Three hand shields
Set Up
Have three players hold one shield each. One defensive lineman will line up on all fours in a six-point stance with fingers touching the ground. The players holding the shields will line up directly in front of the defender in the shape of a triangle, two shields side by side and slightly turned in towards the defender. The third shield is centered directly behind the front two.
Execution
The coach designates one of the front two players holding the shields to start the drill. On the coach’s signal the player designated to begin the drill will quickly step towards the defender with his shield. The defender must shoot his hands from the ground as quick as possible and quickly lock out the pad and return his hands to the ground directly after. The player holding the shield will slide off to the side and the second player holding the next shield will quickly step towards the defender in the same way the first player did. The defender repeats the same action with his hands. Finally, the player holding the third shield will step straight ahead towards the defender and the defender will finish the drill by fully locking out the pad with a flat back and eyes up.
Coaching Point
The eyes, head, and thumbs of the player should be up every time the defender shoots his hands and locks out the pads. Hands should quickly recoil after each strike and fingers should go back to the ground before striking the next pad. On the last pad, the defender should never allow his body to touch the ground while locking out — defensive linemen can’t make plays lying on their stomachs.
Drill #3: Wipe Drill
Purpose
To teach defensive linemen how to regain leverage from a defeated position and escape the blocker when the ball is more than two gaps away.
Equipment
None
Set Up
Split the players up into two lines, one offense and one defense. The players will partner up and run the drill one group at a time. The side designated as the defense will get into a “fit” position (eyes and thumbs up grabbing the V of the neck with bent elbows and knees) with the blocker. The blocker will grab the defender on his shoulders and place his head on the shoulder of the defender in the direction they are going. If the defender is going left then the blocker’s head is on the defender’s left shoulder.
Execution
Each defender will start out going left. On the coach’s command, the blocker will sprint laterally to his right and do his best to reach or cut off the defender. The defender must immediately lock out the blocker and push with his left hand. Once the defender locks out and gets his face to the left, he will execute a wipe by taking his right hand off the blocker and use the inside of his forearm to come across the wrists of the blocker as hard and quick as possible to knock his hands off and to get the defender’s shoulders and momentum finishing in the direction of the ball carrier.
Coaching Point
The blocker must hold the defender tightly and not just let go when the wipe is executed – make him work! The wipe cannot be executed until the defender has locked out the blocker. Remember to keep good pad level.
Drill #4: Base and Steer
Purpose
Teach understanding of feeling leverage, leverage change, and regaining leverage.
Equipment
None
Set Up
Players partner up and coach decides which side is defense. The coach will stand behind the defense so that the blockers can see him.
Execution
The defenders are in the “fit” position and the blockers have their hands on the defender’s shoulders while being able to see the coach. On the whistle, the coach will point left or right and the blockers will begin blocking their defender in that direction. The defender must lock out the blocker and regain leverage by getting the blocker’s shoulders turned. The coach will blow the whistle to stop them where they stand, and blow the whistle and point in the opposite or same direction to get them started again.
Coaching
Point Keep good pad level. Stress the first step in this drill and do not allow my defensive line to shuffle; we want to always create a new line of scrimmage (LOS). On the last rep give two quick whistles that tell them to rip and escape the block.
Drill #5: Tag Drill
Purpose Emphasizes closing the distance, aiming point, pad level, and bending towards the quarterback in pass rush. It teaches the defensive line how to rush, half their man and stay on an edge.
Equipment Four cones and four tennis balls
Set Up
Establish a Line of Scrimmage, or LOS, as a starting point for the defenders. Place each cone four yards behind the LOS. Place each towel or tennis ball slightly behind and to the right of each cone. Each player will line up at the LOS to the left of each cone. Another player will line up as an offensive lineman opposite the defender.
Execution On the coach’s command, the offensive player will kick step or back pedal towards the cone as fast as he can. The defender must get off with low pad level and beat the blocker to the cone. The defender must be able to dip his right shoulder and pick up the towel or tennis ball behind the cone.
Coaching Point
- Stage #1: Just use cones and balls, no blocker.
- Stage #2: Cones, balls, blockers.
- Stage #3: Just blockers going straight back.
(Related: Learn about working out like Julian Edelman here.)
Huddle Up
All in all, these drills might not be as exciting as helping your team score a seventy-yard touchdown, but you’ll never reach that point if you don’t put the time in fundamentally. These drills will put your mettle to the test, crucially identifying what you need to work on and what you can perfect. Seriously, grab a friend and get to work, that way, you’ll have someone to hold you accountable as well! Remember, sloppiness now will lead to sloppiness on the field too. Practicing good habits now will pay dividends when it matters the most, so don’t cut corners now.
If you’re still struggling with these drills, considering booking one of CoachUp’s private trainers to help you out! Our professionally trained coaches have the knowledge, experience, and ability to teach you through some the most difficult techniques and strategies — what are you waiting for?
Be prepared for the biggest moments by mastering the small ones off the field.
CoachUp is the safest and easiest way to find a coach for personalized training. With our 100% money-back guarantee and vetted coaches, anyone can achieve their full athletic potential. Find your perfect coach today and become the athlete you want to be!
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3 Football Drills to Become a Better Offensive Lineman
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A strong offense is key to a winning team. As an offensive lineman, you have to be ready to make any block. Strength training helps to move players out of the way, but offensive linemen also need to be fast on their feet. With IMG Academy’s How-To football drill videos, our coaches teach techniques to increase agility and improve overall performance to be game day ready.
In this video, you will be introduced to three football drills to become a better offensive lineman. Watch how student-athletes perform each drill with instruction on stance, footwork, and body positioning in order to stop the opposing team’s defense. Each drill is broken down to provide tutorials on the following three football training options:
- Stance and Starts
- Footwork and Hand Positions
- Fit and Finish Drive
The Stance and Starts drill focuses on the importance of proper posture, footwork, and tempo. Next, the Footwork and Hand Positions drill uses a ball to emphasize the need for correct hand and hip positions while making the block. The final drill, the Fit and Finish Drive, shows how to combine the right footwork with the proper hand position and then finish through the hips to make the play.
Ready to show off your skills on the field? Press play below to get started!
IMG Academy Football has created a library of football training drills that you can refer back to any time! Check out our other News stories as well as our YouTube channel (@imgacademy) for all of our How-To content.
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Five actions that must be done when replacing pads
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WG-Week
Motherland
Thematic applications
Union
Fresh number
26.09.2021 14:25
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Boris Zakharov
Many drivers, for various reasons, prefer to change the brake pads in their cars on their own. Someone does it out of habit, for someone it’s a hobby, and someone in this way is trying to save money on contacting an official service. In this regard, “RG” identified five points that you need to pay attention to when removing old and installing new consumables that are responsible for effective deceleration.
Istock
Checking the performance of the brakes
The first thing you should do after removing the wheel is to check if the brakes are sticking. This procedure should be mandatory, and the testing method should be elementary.
Rotate the brake disc by hand without using excessive force. If this fails, or the part moves with a noticeable effort, then you need to check the condition of the guides and piston. Your actions in this case will directly affect the safety of the ride, since wedging the elements of the brake system is fraught with emergency situations.
We clean the brake mechanisms from dirt
For this procedure, it is best to use a special metal brush or fine sandpaper. We pay special attention to the cleaning of brake discs and brake calipers.
Dirt deposits on these parts can cause grinding, squeaking and deterioration of the brake system. Plus, you should walk with a rag or fine sandpaper on rubber hoses. Otherwise, in a contaminated state, the hoses will be more likely to dry out and crack. You should act carefully so as not to accidentally damage both the hoses themselves and the rubber anthers.
Apply Copper Grease
Remember to first clean the areas where the brake pads make contact with the caliper from the used copper grease, then replace it with new.
After applying fresh lubricant to the guides, check the condition of the rubber boots. If the latter “leaked”, dirt and reagents could get into the elements of the brake system. These contaminants can cause brake wedging and uneven pad wear.
Remove the calipers, spread the cylinders, put the pads
To easily separate the caliper from the brake disc, the first one needs to be rocked from side to side.
The brake pads will push the pistons in and the caliper can be removed without much effort on your part.
When you start installing new pads in the next step, it makes sense to first drown the piston into the caliper using a clamp. In this case, in order not to damage the surface of the piston, you can use the old brake pad as a support pad. Although many “specialists” use an ordinary screwdriver to recess the piston, we do not recommend doing this. There is a high risk of damaging the rubber piston collar.
Bleeding the brakes, topping up the “brake”
And one more very important point – after replacing the pads, it is desirable to pump the brake system to remove air from the system. Although there is no intervention in the system when replacing the brake pads, experts recommend not only pumping the brake fluid during such a service, but also changing the fluid to a new one.
This procedure is absolutely necessary when, after replacing the pads, the pedal becomes soft and begins to sink. You will need a container for brake fluid and a clear rubber hose. Pour a little “brake” into the prepared container. Then pour new brake fluid into the master cylinder reservoir.
We connect the hose to the fitting, and lower the other end into a container with brake fluid. Then we ask the assistant to press the pedal several times and hold it depressed. After that, we turn off the fitting and the liquid begins to go into the prepared container. These manipulations should be repeated until a clean “brake”, without bubbles, goes. After replacing the pads, do not forget to check the brake fluid level, and if necessary, add it to the norm.
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Why brake pads whine #how_to_get rid of
Why do brake pads squeak while driving and after replacement? The main reasons and how to get rid of.
The whistle of brakes while driving is always alarming for motorists and listening to it is not a pleasant thing! Let’s look at the most common causes of brake pad whistling and how to deal with them.
Why are they whistling? Major pains.
The main reasons why brake pads whistle:
– the brake pad wear indicator whistles;
– pads are new;
– low-quality material;
– dirt got on the surface of the block;
– clamping spring broken;
– Jammed caliper guides.
The special squeaker indicator starts to whistle when the pad is worn to the maximum. If the pads are new, but after a while they didn’t get used, it’s a matter of poor-quality material. In both cases, the pads must be replaced.
The most commonplace reason why the front brake pads whistle is the ingress of dirt or sand on the clutch surface. In this case, it is enough to clean the surface of the block. If this does not help, you can slightly remove the upper abrasive layer with a file, but you should not get too carried away.
Another reason for squealing brake pads is a faulty pressure spring. They can lose their elasticity, break or “fly away” in an unknown direction. In this case, the springs must be replaced.
Whistling can also signal acidification of the caliper fingers. It is enough to clean them and lubricate the guide seats.
Whistle while driving, what’s the problem?
If the brake pads whistle when driving, then the matter is in poor-quality pads.
As a rule, low-quality pads whistle when driving due to their heterogeneous structure, as well as foreign inclusions and chips. The friction linings of such pads may have a non-standard size or insufficient thickness.
Friction linings of high-quality pads have a homogeneous structure without chips, dents and foreign inclusions. This provides soft braking and high-quality heat dissipation. Pads made by hot pressing are considered especially durable.
#Important! On the boxes of original products should always be: the name and article number of the part, the hologram, the address and contacts of the manufacturer.
If they whistle when braking and stopping, where to look for the cause?
Brake pads whistle when braking in the following cases:
– insufficient lubrication in the brake caliper system;
– wear of brake discs;
– uneven fit of the brake cylinder.
You can solve the whistling problem yourself. First, if necessary, chamfer the pads. Then sand all the contact points with the caliper and apply a thin layer of special grease as indicated in the instructions.
New brake pads can also whine when braking. It is worth checking whether grooves have formed on the brake discs from operation. If so, the car will not brake effectively and the discs should be replaced.
When the whistle is heard only at the beginning of braking, and then disappears, it means that the brake cylinder is not evenly attached to the shoe. You can solve this problem yourself by sticking a special insulating pad on the back of the pad, which will absorb noise and vibration.
#Important! To avoid acidification, it is the caliper grease that is used! It is necessary to prevent grease from getting on the piston cups and guides, as it contributes to the swelling of the rubber.
Whistling after replacement with new ones, why and where is the problem hiding?
After replacement, hard brake pads or pads that have not yet worn in may whistle. In order for new brake pads to stop whistling, they need an average break-in of 50-100 kilometers or a couple of intense braking.
Rigid pads have a high abrasive content. Due to this, the brake discs begin to wear out and we hear a characteristic metallic whistle. Soft and medium soft pads act less aggressively on the discs, so there is less noise during operation.
How to solve the problem? Several effective tricks.
To eliminate the whistle of brake pads with your own hands, you need to:
– change bad pads;
– Lubricate the brake pads.
“For the demonstration, a photo from the site shnyagi.net was used.”
The pads need to be changed if they are old or if they are new but have not worn well. The reason may be poor-quality material or a fake for the original. A high price is not always a guarantee of quality, but you should not buy the cheapest pads either.
How to lubricate the brake pads if they whistle..? There are special lubricants, here are the most common:
– universal, suitable for all moving parts of the brake system;
– anti-seize, which are used for brackets, clamping springs and the back surface of the pads;
– anti-corrosion.
For lubrication, it is not recommended to use grease or anything that comes to hand, as this affects the life of the pads and can lead to acidification of the brake system elements.
#Lifehack or how not to do it! Some pads have factory bevels to suppress noise. Some craftsmen make such cuts on their own.