How to Paint a Helmet at Home: A Comprehensive Guide to Customizing Your Gear

How can you paint a helmet at home. What materials do you need for helmet painting. How to prepare a helmet surface for painting. What types of paint work best for helmets. How to apply paint to a helmet properly. How long does the helmet painting process take. What are the best techniques for achieving a professional finish on a painted helmet.

Essential Materials for Painting a Helmet

Before embarking on your helmet painting project, it’s crucial to gather all the necessary supplies. Here’s a comprehensive list of materials you’ll need:

• A helmet (bike, motorcycle, or full-face)
• Isopropyl alcohol or surface cleaner
• Sandpaper (various grits: 220, 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500)
• Primer suitable for plastics
• Spray paint in your desired color
• Clear coat spray
• Painter’s tape
• Cloth or rags
• Warm, soapy water
• Protective gear (gloves, mask, eye protection)

Having these materials on hand will ensure a smooth painting process and professional-looking results.

Preparing Your Helmet for Painting

Proper preparation is key to achieving a high-quality paint job on your helmet. Follow these steps to ensure your helmet is ready for its new look:

1. Clean the helmet thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol or a specialized surface cleaner to remove any dirt, oils, or contaminants.
2. Sand the entire surface of the helmet using 220-grit sandpaper to create a smooth base for the paint to adhere to.
3. Wipe away any dust with a damp cloth and allow the helmet to dry completely.
4. Use painter’s tape to cover any areas you don’t want to be painted, such as vents or visor attachments.

Taking the time to properly prepare your helmet will result in a more durable and professional-looking finish.

Choosing the Right Paint for Your Helmet

Selecting the appropriate paint is crucial for achieving a long-lasting and attractive finish on your helmet. Consider these factors when choosing your paint:

• Compatibility with plastic surfaces
• Durability and resistance to chipping
• UV resistance to prevent fading
• Flexibility to withstand impacts

Spray paint is often the best choice for helmet painting due to its ease of application and smooth finish. Look for paints specifically designed for use on plastics or automotive applications. Brands like Rust-Oleum and Krylon offer suitable options for helmet painting projects.

Applying Primer: The Foundation of a Great Paint Job

Priming your helmet is a crucial step that shouldn’t be skipped. Why is primer so important? It provides several benefits:

• Improves paint adhesion to the helmet surface
• Creates a uniform base color for your paint
• Helps prevent chipping and peeling of the final paint layer
• Can fill in minor imperfections in the helmet’s surface

To apply primer effectively, follow these steps:

1. Shake the primer can thoroughly before use.
2. Hold the can 10-15 cm away from the helmet surface.
3. Apply the primer in light, even coats using sweeping motions.
4. Allow each coat to dry for 15-20 minutes before applying the next.
5. Apply 2-3 thin coats of primer for best results.
6. Let the final coat of primer dry for at least 24 hours before proceeding to paint.

By taking the time to properly prime your helmet, you’re setting the stage for a professional-quality paint job.

Mastering the Spray Painting Technique

Achieving a smooth, even coat of paint on your helmet requires proper technique. Here are some tips to help you master the art of spray painting:

• Work in a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors or in a garage with open doors.
• Shake the paint can vigorously for at least one minute before use.
• Hold the can 20-25 cm away from the helmet surface.
• Begin spraying before you reach the helmet and continue past it to ensure even coverage.
• Use smooth, sweeping motions to apply the paint in thin, even coats.
• Allow each coat to dry for 15-20 minutes before applying the next.
• Apply 3-4 thin coats of paint for optimal coverage and durability.

Remember, patience is key when spray painting. It’s better to apply multiple thin coats than to try to cover the helmet with one thick coat, which can lead to drips and an uneven finish.

Adding a Clear Coat for Protection and Shine

Once you’ve achieved the desired color on your helmet, it’s time to protect your work with a clear coat. Why is a clear coat necessary? It provides several benefits:

• Protects the paint from UV rays, preventing fading
• Adds depth and shine to the color
• Increases the durability of the paint job
• Helps resist scratches and chips

To apply the clear coat effectively, follow these steps:

1. Ensure the paint is completely dry (at least 24 hours after the final coat).
2. Lightly sand the painted surface with 2000-grit sandpaper to remove any imperfections.
3. Clean the surface with a tack cloth to remove any dust.
4. Apply the clear coat using the same technique as the paint, with light, even coats.
5. Allow each coat to dry for 20-30 minutes before applying the next.
6. Apply 2-3 coats of clear coat for maximum protection and shine.
7. Let the final coat cure for at least 48 hours before handling or using the helmet.

A properly applied clear coat will not only protect your paint job but also give your helmet a professional, glossy finish.

Troubleshooting Common Helmet Painting Issues

Even with careful preparation and application, you may encounter some issues when painting your helmet. Here are some common problems and their solutions:

Orange Peel Texture

An orange peel texture occurs when the paint doesn’t level out properly, resulting in a bumpy surface. To fix this:

• Sand the affected area with 1500-grit sandpaper
• Clean the surface and reapply paint in thinner coats
• Ensure you’re holding the spray can at the correct distance

Runs or Drips

Runs occur when too much paint is applied in one area. To address this issue:

• Allow the paint to dry completely
• Sand down the run with 800-grit sandpaper
• Feather the edges with 1500-grit sandpaper
• Clean the area and reapply paint in thin, even coats

Peeling or Flaking

If your paint is peeling or flaking, it’s likely due to poor surface preparation or incompatible materials. To fix this:

• Remove all loose paint
• Sand the entire surface back to the original material
• Clean thoroughly and start the painting process from scratch, ensuring proper priming

By addressing these issues promptly and correctly, you can salvage your paint job and achieve the desired result.

Maintaining Your Newly Painted Helmet

After investing time and effort into painting your helmet, it’s essential to maintain it properly to ensure its longevity and appearance. Here are some tips for keeping your painted helmet looking great:

• Allow the paint to cure fully before using the helmet (at least 7 days)
• Clean the helmet regularly with mild soap and water
• Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners
• Store the helmet in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight
• Use a soft cloth or microfiber towel to buff and maintain shine
• Apply a UV-resistant wax or sealant every few months for added protection

By following these maintenance practices, you can keep your custom-painted helmet looking fresh and vibrant for years to come.

Safety Considerations When Painting Helmets

While customizing your helmet can be a fun and rewarding project, it’s crucial to prioritize safety throughout the process. Consider these important safety aspects:

Structural Integrity

Ensure that your painting process doesn’t compromise the helmet’s protective qualities. Avoid sanding too aggressively or using paints that might weaken the helmet’s structure. If in doubt, consult the helmet manufacturer or a professional.

Visibility

If painting a motorcycle or bicycle helmet, make sure your design doesn’t reduce visibility or reflectivity. Consider incorporating reflective elements into your design for added safety.

Ventilation

Be careful not to clog or obstruct any ventilation holes or channels in the helmet. Proper airflow is crucial for comfort and safety.

Chemical Safety

When working with paints, primers, and solvents, always:

• Work in a well-ventilated area
• Wear appropriate protective gear (gloves, mask, eye protection)
• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for all products
• Dispose of materials properly

By keeping these safety considerations in mind, you can enjoy your custom-painted helmet without compromising on protection.

Creative Design Ideas for Your Helmet

Now that you’ve mastered the technical aspects of helmet painting, it’s time to let your creativity shine. Here are some inspiring design ideas to consider:

Color Blocking

Create bold, geometric patterns using contrasting colors. This technique can make your helmet stand out and complement your gear or vehicle.

Gradient Effects

Achieve a smooth transition between colors for a modern, eye-catching look. This can be done with careful blending of spray paint or by using specialized paint products.

Metallic and Pearl Finishes

Add some sparkle and depth to your helmet with metallic or pearl paint finishes. These can create stunning effects, especially in sunlight.

Stenciled Designs

Use custom stencils to add logos, patterns, or intricate designs to your helmet. This technique allows for precise and repeatable elements in your design.

Airbrushed Artwork

For more detailed and complex designs, consider learning airbrushing techniques or collaborating with an airbrush artist to create truly unique helmet art.

Textured Finishes

Experiment with textured spray paints or add clear coat with fine glitter for a subtle sparkle effect.

Remember, your helmet is a canvas for self-expression. Don’t be afraid to experiment and create a design that reflects your personality and style.

Legal Considerations for Custom Painted Helmets

Before embarking on your helmet painting project, it’s important to be aware of any legal implications. Consider the following:

Certification Standards

In many regions, helmets must meet specific safety standards. Modifying your helmet, including painting it, may affect its certification. Check local regulations to ensure your customized helmet remains compliant.

Visibility Requirements

Some jurisdictions have specific requirements for helmet visibility, especially for motorcycle helmets. Ensure your design doesn’t compromise any mandated reflective elements or color requirements.

Liability Concerns

Be aware that modifying your helmet may affect the manufacturer’s warranty or liability. In some cases, it might be advisable to use a helmet specifically for customization rather than altering your primary protective gear.

Professional Use

If you’re customizing helmets for sale or professional use, be sure to research any additional regulations or certifications that may apply to your business.

By staying informed about legal considerations, you can enjoy your custom helmet while remaining compliant with local laws and safety standards.

Painting your helmet at home can be a rewarding and cost-effective way to personalize your gear. By following the steps outlined in this guide, you can achieve professional-looking results and express your creativity. Remember to prioritize safety throughout the process and maintain your newly painted helmet to ensure its longevity. With patience, attention to detail, and the right techniques, you’ll be turning heads with your custom-painted helmet in no time.

How to paint a bike helmet at home

31st May 2021

With cycling increasing in popularity all over the world, lots of people are dusting off their bikes and heading out on the roads and trails this summer. Whilst it is important to ensure you aren’t using a bike helmet that is past its expiry date, you may have one that could benefit from a spruce up or perhaps you are passing one down to a younger child who has a strong preference on colour. If so painting the helemt is a quick and easy job!

What’s the best way to paint a bike helmet?

Spray paint is unrivaled if you want to get a really smooth professional finish on a surface, no one wants to cycle round with brush marks on their lid! Spray paint also offers speed of application and for a small job like a bike helmet the coverage of 2m2 means you’ll only need one can of colour to cover all you need.

How do I spray paint my bike helmet?

CLEANING

The first step is to ensure you have a really clean surface, we recommend spray alcohol fr this job. For convenience, we sell our own, but you may already have some in your supplies.  Use a cloth to apply it and wipe the surface to ensure it is free from contaminants that could affect adhesion or disrupt the smooth finish you are aiming for.

PRIMER

As the surface is non-porous we advise using a primer to help the top layer of paint adhere and ensure the colour lasts well. Our Universal Primer works well for this job, although we also recommend our Primer For Plastics. You are unlikely to use a full can for this application, so choose whichever will be most useful to you for another job! (Read the notes at the end of this blog post about storing half-used cans) Remember when spraying keep your hand 10-15cm from the surface and spray in wide sweeping movements starting and finishing off the edge of the object you are spraying. Leave the primer for 24 hours to dry properly before applying the top coat.

PAINT

What colour do you fancy for your spray-painted bike helmet? For this project we used our deceptively named Basic range of paints which come in a wide range of colours and finishes including fluorescent, matt, gloss and metallic. So the choice is yours. Browse our range and pick what works. Perhaps choose something that matches your bike?

Isopropyl Alcohol surface cleaner Pintyplus

100% Isopropyl Alcohol

£10.99

View product

Pintyplus – Tech – Universal/Ferric Primer – 400ml

Anticorrosive alkyd primer. Mat finish. Free from chrome and lead components. Quick dry.

£11.50

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Pintyplus – Basic – Gloss – 400ml

Quick dry alkyd enamel Gloss spray paint with a high resistance outdoors and an excellent adherence.

£11.50

View product

After you’ve finished

If you have any primer or paint left in the can which you want to save, invert the can and press the nozzle until only air comes out. This will ensure that when you store the can the nozzle will be free of paint. Also don’t forget if you do spray paint your helmet, share the photos with us on social media using #pintypluser

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How to Paint Your Full Face Helmet — Max Dubler

March 23, 2020by Maxwell Dubler

Updated 4/21/20

Skateboarding is roughly 80% about looking cool, and a custom painted helmet looks at least 73% cooler than a stock color; so in the interest of helping everyone stand out on the hill, here’s a guide on how to paint your helmet.

Some notes before we go into this: a good paint job is all about being patient, following the directions on the can, and thorough prep work and finishing. You’re going to spend a few minutes painting and a lot of time sanding, waiting for things to dry, and polishing. The more patient and thorough you are, the better your helmet is gonna come out. Expect your helmet to be out of commission for at least a week.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED (these are Amazon affiliate links)

• A full face helmet.

• Waterproof sandpaper in 220, 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500 grit. (Grits over 400 are optional)

• A bowl or bucket of warm, soapy water.

• Blue painters tape.

• Primer, paint, and clear coat. You have two basic options here, which can be described as hardware store or auto supply store.

  • Hardware store paint is cheaper and easier to work with. Grab some gray primer and pick a paint color you vibe with. Don’t worry about the finish of your paint, because you’re going to be using a glossy clear coat to finish. I linked Rust-Oleum products here because you should be able to find them in any hardware store and I have had good results with them in the past. If you want a wider color selection, Montana makes artist-grade acrylic spray paints in hundreds of shades.

  • Car and motorcycle paint is a little more expensive, a little more delicate to work with, but tends to deliver better results. You’re going to use a plain gray primer and pick a paint color you like. For clear, Zak Maytum recommended 2K clear glamour spray, a two-part automotive clear that comes in a rattle can, and it is BY FAR the best clear I have ever used.

• Somewhere to paint that is well-ventilated and within the temperature and humidity guidelines set out on your paint cans. Please be aware that 2K overspray will stick to whatever is nearby. Don’t be an idiot and spray near your car like I did (it will come off with a clay bar).

• Plenty of patience.

• Rubbing and polishing compounds and car wax. (Optional)

• Door edge trim. I use black; but it’s also available in chrome and fake carbon fiber.

• Tack cloths or clean rags (old t-shirts or underwear works well)

• Optional: a hair dryer and a cardboard box big enough to fit your helmet.

Ok, got all your supplies? Let’s go.

1. First, take apart your helmet. Pull off all the stickers and remove the adhesive (a hairdryer will make this easier). Remove the visor and all removable hardware. (Put the visor hardware in a plastic bag in a safe place, because it’s usually custom and hard to replace.) Pull out the cheek pads and, if possible, the cloth liner over the eps foam.

2. Pull off the rubbery trim around the bottom edge and the face opening. A hairdryer will help loosen up the glue and soften the vinyl. Don’t worry about messing it up because you’re going to throw it away and replace it with door edge protector. A razor will help shave all the residue off.

3. Use your blue painter’s tape to mask off the entire interior of the helmet. The solvents in spray paint can melt the foam that protects your brain; so do a good job here.

4. Using your 220 grit sandpaper and your bowl of soapy water, wet sand off the original paint and primer, ideally down to where the fiberglass is starting to show through the stock primer. Don’t go very deep into the fiberglass, as you don’t want to damage the structural soundness of your helmet or deal with itchy fiberglass dust.

5. Wet sand with your 400 grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface, remove sandpaper scratches, and get it ready for paint.

6. Clean all the dust off your helmet by running it under the faucet, then let it dry (don’t worry, water won’t hurt your foam or the structural integrity of your helmet). When it’s dry, wipe it down again with a tack cloth or a clean, damp rag. You want to make sure it’s completely free of dust. Your helmet should have a smooth, matte finish at this point. You can see a pic of how it should look down below.

7. Fill out the face hole of your helmet with paper to prevent overspray from hitting the inside of your helmet. Stuffing a paper grocery bag inside will usually do the trick here.

8. Read the instructions on your primer, paint, and clear coat cans, then check the manufacturers’ websites for their technical data sheets. You are going to actually follow these directions, which might be the hardest part of this whole process.

9. Lay down your primer. Follow the directions on the can about shaking the can for at least a minute, holding the can about 16” away from the surface, and applying light, even coats. I cannot stress the light, even coats thing enough.

   Less is more here. You probably won’t get full coverage on your first coat. Don’t slop a ton of paint or primer on there at once or you’ll get drips, it’ll never dry, and your finished product will look bad. Painting from the bottom of your helmet up will help avoid runs and drips.

10. Let your primer dry completely. This can take up to several days, depending on temperature, humidity, and the thickness of your coats. Check your can to see the dry and recoat times. Your primer is dry when you cannot dent the finish with your fingernail or smell solvents gassing off.

    1. You can use your cardboard box and hairdryer to create a low-tech convection oven for faster drying in between coats. Just take your cardboard box and cut a 3” hole in the top of it and another hole in the side to fit the business end of your hairdryer. Stick your helmet in the box, insert the hairdryer in the appropriate hole, and turn it on (ideally at lower temperature). The heat and constantly moving air will help your paint dry faster. Note that you will want to keep a close eye on this to avoid burning down your house. (The hole in the top of the box is critical to aid convection and allow your solvent fumes to escape. ) Alternately, you can just set your helmet in front of a fan.

11. Once your primer is dry, wet sand it smooth with your 400 grit sandpaper. You’re not trying to remove a lot of material, you’re just slightly roughing it up so paint will go down smooth. When you’re done, grab a tack cloth or a couple damp rags to wipe your helmet down and make sure it’s totally dust-free. When it’s clean, smooth, and completely dry, it’s time to paint.

12. Spray your first couple coats of paint. Once again, shake your paint for a couple minutes to make sure it’s properly mixed and apply light, even coats from the bottom up. Follow the directions for dry and recoat times.

13. Let your paint dry completely.

14. If you haven’t gotten total coverage, lay down another two or three coats of paint. Light or very bright colors will take more coats than darker colors to get good coverage. Metallics cover best. Neon yellow is going to require a lot more coats than flat black.

15. Let your paint dry completely again. Seriously, this is important.

16. When your paint is looking good, it’s time for clear coat. This is where you’ll make or break your final product; so follow the directions on your can and again, be sure to do light even coats from the bottom up.

17. Let that clear dry. (If you’re using 2K clear, you can throw your helmet in your low-tech convection oven to fully cure each coat in about an hour.)

18. More clear. Deep, flawless clear coat is the secret to making your paint job look fly; so feel free to do several layers. Just make sure your helmet is clean between coats.

19. Again, let your clear dry completely. (It can take up to a couple weeks for thick coats of hardware-store clear to cure completely.) You’ll know it’s done when the clear is very hard and your helmet doesn’t smell like paint anymore.

20. Lightly sand your whole helmet smooth with 400 grit sandpaper to remove any orange-peel texture. You’re not trying to go super deep here, just to smooth things out so your final coat will go down nice and smooth.

21. Lay down a final coat of clear.

22. Remove all the masking tape and the face-hole covering.

23. The following steps are optional and should only be followed if you’ve used 2K clear. If you’re happy with how your finish looks, you can skip to reassembling your helmet. If you want a helmet that has a perfect, mirror-smooth finish, keep going. These steps will make solid colors look extra professional; but will slightly dull the shine of glitter or exposed carbon.

    1. Wet sand with your 800 grit sandpaper. When it feels completely smooth, move on to 1000 grit, then 1500, 2000, and 2500 in sequence. You’ll know when it’s time to step your grit up.

    2. Again, clean off all your dust.

    3. Following the directions on the package, treat your helmet with rubbing compound, let it dry, and buff with a clean cloth.

       1. Less is more here. The package you bought is probably enough to do two or three whole cars. You want a slight haze.

    4. Apply your polishing compound, let it dry, and buff with a clean cloth.

    5. Finally, apply wax, let dry, and buff with a clean cloth. Your helmet should be wildly shiny by now.

24. Replace the edge trims with door edge guard. A hair dryer or heat gun will help it bend into place in the visor opening.

25. Put your visor back on.

26. Take a picture and put it on social media to stunt on your friends and/or haters.

27. Whack your perfectly painted against the ground to get the curse off. (This is important: failure to remove the curse is likely to result in horrific slams.)

28. Skate.

Additional notes:

• If you want to do a glitter look like my helmet, expect to use lots of clear to build it up enough to fully bury the glitter in clear. I went through one and a half cans of 2K to get the clear deep enough to smooth out the glitter and non-glitter sections.

• If you’re doing exposed carbon or the glitter look, skip the final wet sanding and polishing and just do a heavy coat of 2K after your final wet-sanding.

(Pics will be updated as I finish this ongoing project.)

Visor off, hardware securely stored, trim removed with a heat gun and a sharp knife. The TSG Pass Pro Carbon trim is very stubborn and does not like to come off. In retrospect, I should have worked harder to get this off completely. I ended up having to paint the remaining vinyl bits black.

Here’s what the helmet looks like with the graphics sanded off and the whole surface wet-sanded with 400 grit. Note the smooth, matte finish with no sandpaper scratches.

Before paint texture close up. I actually sanded a bit more to take out these scratches before painting.

Taped off interior to protect the foam from harmful paint solvents.

Ready for paint. Note the covered face hole and the taped-off visor hardware area. The additional tape is to create a leopard print pattern, where the leopard spots are exposed carbon fiber weave. The helmet is sitting on a light stand with a coffee can on the end of it.

After the gold glitter spray. Remember: use light, even coats for a nice finish.

Tape removed. Note the thickness of the glitter and its relative dullness here: we’re going to have to build up enough coats of clear to fully bury the glitter (for maximum sparkle) and even out the depth between the exposed carbon and the glitter.

The carbon looks great after the first coat of clear; but it’s going to take several more coats to bury the glitter and make a smooth surface (note the texture on the nose). Sorry for the slightly blurry picture.

Once enough clear has been built up, I gave it a final wet sand at 400 grit. Note how the surface height difference between the glitter and the carbon is gone.

This is the surface after wet-sanding the clear to 2500 grit. Note the ugly vinyl residue and that the perfect, mirror smooth surface has come at the cost of slightly dulling the sparkle of the glitter and the “deep” look of the carbon. Rubbing compound, polish, and wax restored the gloss; but the dullness of the glitter and carbon persisted. I had to do something about the ugly yellow trim residue anyway; so I wet- sanded the whole helmet with 400 grit again, painted over the trim residue with black primer, and sprayed final coat of clear, which restored the brilliance.

To get the perfect circle for the strap rivet, I put a piece of masking tape on a cutting board, then carefully traced around the cap of a marker with an x-acto knife.

If I had a do-over, I would have spent more time getting the trim off completely and painted it at the start of the process. I’ll do it better next time.

Finished and reassembled. The final clear has a very slight orange peel; but the glitter sparkles bright and the carbon looks great.

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March 23, 2020
/Maxwell Dubler

Do-it-yourself motorcycle helmet painting – instructions on how to paint or repaint a motorcycle helmet

Scuffs, scratches and chips do not add attractiveness to the equipment. And the rider has two options: buy a new helmet or restore the old one. The first solution is the simplest, but there is not always money for really reliable equipment. And in this case, the motorist should figure out how the helmet is painted or painted.

What is the best way to dye equipment?

Any alkyd or acrylic compound is recommended for helmet restoration. The first type of paint is more reliable, as it is resistant to temperature extremes and various weather conditions (rain, snow, frost, etc.). A properly applied layer of alkyd composition will last several years without problems.

But acrylic products are suitable for those who like to change their image often. If you don’t like how the helmet is painted, the coating can be easily removed and a new coat of compound applied.

Experienced motorists advise using paint for the helmet:

• Mobihel (auto enamel).
• Decorix (in cans).
• Bosny (tinted varnish).
• Dupli-Color or Maxi Color (car paint for plastic).

If you are going to repaint a motorcycle helmet, you will also need a plastic paint remover, automotive primer, and top coat. You can find all these tools in any auto shop or specialized online store.

Please note: To prime the surface, it is better to use aerosols from Mobihel or Motip . A good solution would be acrylic compositions Kudo or Veslee. But if there are deep potholes or chips on the equipment, then it is better to make the starting layer from putty for plastic elements of cars.

Why choose primer and spray paint?

Painting a motorcycle helmet is a complex and time-consuming process. And special sprayers greatly simplify it, and allow you to evenly distribute the paint over the surface of the equipment. In addition, you can create several layers of composition and play with shades.

The advantage of spray paints is their small volume. One can is enough to paint the entire helmet, while it costs less than cans.

Note: Special fluorescent, neon and reflective compounds are now on the market. With their help, you can make the helmet more visible on the road (reflector effect).

How to paint a motorcycle helmet?

Bike or quad gear should be repaired in a dry and well ventilated area. Also prepare in advance the remover, fixing varnish, paint and primer in aerosols.

To perform the procedure you should:

• Completely disassemble the helmet. It is important to detach the visor, extra goggles, lining and other removable items.
• Remove old paint. To do this, you can use a wash and fine-grained sandpaper. It is important to process all the corners and bends of the helmet. It is strongly not recommended to use a grinder, as it can melt plastic parts.
• Prime the surface. This way you will clean the helmet from dirt and remnants of old paint. Large chips can be covered with putty.
• Re-sand and prime the surface. The procedure is performed with fine-grained paper.
• Apply paint.

The final step in painting a motorcycle helmet with your own hands is its treatment with a fixing varnish.

Alternative ways to restore gear

If you don’t want to bother with sanding, painting and varnishing a helmet, then you need to look for alternative ways to hide its defects. And surprisingly, there are such methods. We are talking about banal stickers for equipment that can be bought at almost any motorcycle dealership.

They can be used to hide small scuffs or chips, as well as deep and long scratches. The range of stickers is extensive, so the rider will definitely be able to find the right solution.

While decals are a good way to hide equipment imperfections, they are only a temporary solution. From moisture, sun, cold and heat, they begin to fade and peel off. A more practical, but expensive option would be airbrushing. But it’s worth saying right away that this is an expensive pleasure and not every city has smart craftsmen.

In any case, airbrushing, motorcycle helmet drawings and painting will not repair serious damage. If the equipment has a deep crack or a large chip, it should be replaced immediately. Remember that the service life of a motorcycle helmet is 2-3 years. In the assortment of the Dvako salon you will find a wide selection of inexpensive helmets from well-known brands.

05/29/2021
7448

DIY Helmet Painting – Doit-Yourself.Ru

My old Steelbird helmet looked good on my old bike, but when I bought a brand new black Royal Enfield, the old graphic design of mine was no longer satisfying. So, having taken risks and enthusiasm, I took up painting the helmet.

Painted the helmet at home

No professionals did anything with this helmet, everything was done by myself in experimental mode.

If you want to do something like this, I suggest you try it on a spare helmet first to get the confidence to work on the final version. Go ahead guys, this is fun + you will be so proud of yourself.

Step 1: First step – sanding

The very first step is to sand your helmet.

If you have a factory-designed helmet and want to change the base color, you have to be tough. The more you work with the skin, the better you will do.

I used sandpaper of different grades: 40, 60, 80.

The finer the paper, the less work you have to do.

It takes a long time to erase such drawings. I did it by hand (no machine). If you have a machine, the work will go faster and require less effort. Clean every detail very carefully, very carefully.

Step 2: After sanding

Starting with the sanding, this is the result.

It took me about 8 hours to do this.

Step 4: Preparation

After sanding, rinse the top of the helmet very thoroughly.

Make sure it is free from stains, skin residue.

Regular dishwashing liquid and red tape are great for removing dust and dirt.

After cleaning is complete, make sure that the helmet is properly closed, and all actions you performed should not affect the inside of the helmet, otherwise the internal headset could be damaged (chemicals are harmful to it). I used painter’s tape to seal it.

Also be sure to cover any holes or irregularities on the outside with something.

Step 5: Painting

Hand-held paint sprayers are not always suitable as they leave stains even when handled by professionals. So I chose a painting machine with an air compressor and a spray gun.

First apply the plastic thinner, very light and thin.

A thin coat of paint can be applied after 2-3 hours.

You will need to apply 2-3-4 coats of paint depending on the look you are aiming for. When I did this step, I achieved a matte finish on my helmet.

NOW the most important thing is the choice of colors. There are a lot of them on the market, and of different quality.

I used decorative paints that are easy to get at an auto paint shop. For application in 3 layers, 100-120 g is enough. Do not forget that you need to apply the paint from a certain distance, and protect yourself with appropriate clothing.

Step 6: Finishing

I wanted the final finish to be matte, so I stopped there, but you can varnish it to protect the paint. I didn’t use it, as the varnish adds shine.

But for protection against scratches, I used a hand sprayer and applied a very thin single coat of varnish. You can apply 3-4 coats according to your taste. The more you apply, the more shiny the surface will be. Making a helmet is no easy task.

It’s not like I had many options, but my choice was vinyl sheets. Bring your design to life with these sheets, BUT hot glue them together to be sure. Wrinkle-free application also contributes to the gluing efficiency.