How does the StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft enhance player performance. What customization options are available for this innovative lacrosse equipment. Why is the Metal 2 considered a game-changing shaft in the lacrosse world.
The Engineering Marvel Behind StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft
The StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft represents a significant leap forward in lacrosse equipment technology. Through extensive research and development, StringKing has created a shaft that pushes the boundaries of performance and durability. Using advanced manufacturing techniques and innovative materials, the company has managed to produce a lacrosse shaft that is both lighter and stronger than its predecessors.
The key to the Metal 2’s superior performance lies in its construction. StringKing went to great lengths to source the best materials available, traveling to eight different countries to find an alloy that surpasses those used in aerospace, military, and automotive industries. This next-generation alloy allows the Metal 2 to achieve an impressive strength-to-weight ratio, providing players with a shaft that can withstand the rigors of intense gameplay without compromising on maneuverability.
Advanced Alloy Composition
What makes the Metal 2’s alloy so special? The exact composition is a closely guarded secret, but we know it combines elements that offer superior strength, flexibility, and durability. This unique blend results in a shaft that can absorb and distribute impact forces more effectively than traditional materials, reducing the risk of breakage and extending the life of the equipment.
Innovative Manufacturing Process
How does StringKing transform this advanced alloy into a high-performance lacrosse shaft? The manufacturing process involves precision engineering and quality control at every step. Using computer-controlled machining and advanced heat treatment techniques, StringKing ensures that each Metal 2 shaft meets exacting standards for straightness, weight distribution, and overall quality.
Customization Options: Tailoring the Metal 2 to Your Playing Style
One of the standout features of the StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft is its range of customization options. Recognizing that every player has unique preferences and playing styles, StringKing offers the Metal 2 in various weights and colors. This level of customization allows players to fine-tune their equipment to match their specific needs on the field.
Weight Options
The Metal 2 is available in multiple weight classes, each designed to cater to different player preferences. These options include:
- Ultralight: For players who prioritize speed and quick maneuvers
- Standard: Balanced option for all-around performance
- Heavy: Provides extra power for defensive checks and ground balls
By offering these weight variations, StringKing enables players to select the perfect balance between speed and strength, optimizing their performance based on their position and playing style.
Color Variations
Beyond performance customization, the Metal 2 also caters to personal style preferences with a range of color options. While the specific color palette may vary, common choices include:
- Classic Black
- Silver
- Navy Blue
- Forest Green
- Crimson Red
These color options allow players to coordinate their equipment with team colors or express their individual style on the field.
Performance Benefits of the StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft
The StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft offers several key performance benefits that set it apart from other options on the market. These advantages contribute to improved player performance and a more enjoyable playing experience.
Enhanced Strength and Durability
How does the Metal 2’s construction translate to on-field performance? The advanced alloy and manufacturing process result in a shaft that can withstand the high-impact nature of lacrosse. This increased durability means players can confidently execute defensive checks and contest ground balls without fear of equipment failure.
Improved Weight Distribution
The Metal 2’s design incorporates careful consideration of weight distribution along the length of the shaft. This balanced approach enhances control and maneuverability, allowing players to make quick, precise movements during gameplay. The optimized weight distribution also contributes to reduced fatigue during extended periods of play.
Superior Feel and Responsiveness
Players using the Metal 2 often report an improved “feel” for the game. The shaft’s construction allows for better energy transfer between the player’s hands and the ball, resulting in more accurate passes, shots, and defensive maneuvers. This enhanced responsiveness can make a significant difference in high-pressure game situations.
Comparing the StringKing Metal 2 to Other Lacrosse Shafts
To fully appreciate the StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft, it’s essential to understand how it stacks up against other options in the market. While individual preferences may vary, the Metal 2 offers several advantages over traditional lacrosse shafts.
Weight Comparison
How does the Metal 2’s weight compare to other lacrosse shafts? In general, the Metal 2 tends to be lighter than many comparable defensive shafts, even in its standard weight option. This weight reduction can lead to improved speed and reduced player fatigue over the course of a game or practice session.
Durability Testing
StringKing subjects the Metal 2 to rigorous durability testing to ensure it meets the demands of competitive play. In comparison tests, the Metal 2 consistently outperforms many other shafts in terms of resistance to bending, denting, and breakage. This superior durability can result in cost savings over time, as players may need to replace their equipment less frequently.
Player Feedback
What do players say about the Metal 2 compared to other shafts they’ve used? Many report increased confidence in their equipment, noting that the Metal 2 feels more responsive and allows for greater control. Players also appreciate the customization options, which allow them to fine-tune their equipment to their specific needs and preferences.
Maintenance and Care for Your StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft
To ensure optimal performance and longevity of your StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft, proper maintenance and care are essential. While the Metal 2 is designed for durability, following these guidelines can help preserve its performance characteristics and appearance.
Cleaning and Storage
How should you clean your Metal 2 shaft after use? A simple wipe-down with a damp cloth is usually sufficient to remove dirt and sweat. For more thorough cleaning, use a mild soap solution and rinse thoroughly. Always dry the shaft completely before storage to prevent corrosion.
When storing your Metal 2, keep it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Avoid leaving it in extreme temperatures, such as in a hot car, as this can potentially affect the shaft’s structural integrity over time.
Inspection and Maintenance
Regularly inspect your Metal 2 shaft for signs of wear or damage. Check for any dents, cracks, or unusual bends that may affect performance or safety. If you notice any significant damage, it’s best to replace the shaft to ensure optimal play and prevent potential injuries.
Periodically check and tighten any screws or hardware connecting the shaft to the head of your lacrosse stick. Loose connections can affect your control and accuracy during play.
The Future of Lacrosse Equipment: Innovations Inspired by the Metal 2
The StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft represents a significant step forward in lacrosse equipment design, but it’s likely just the beginning of a new era of innovation in the sport. As manufacturers continue to push the boundaries of materials science and engineering, we can expect to see further advancements in lacrosse gear.
Material Advancements
What new materials might we see in future lacrosse shafts? Researchers are constantly developing new alloys and composite materials that could offer even better strength-to-weight ratios than those used in the Metal 2. We may see the incorporation of advanced carbon fibers, titanium alloys, or even nanomaterials in future lacrosse equipment.
Smart Technology Integration
Could future lacrosse shafts incorporate smart technology? It’s not hard to imagine shafts with built-in sensors that could track metrics like shot speed, pass accuracy, or even player fatigue levels. This data could be invaluable for training and performance analysis, potentially revolutionizing how players and coaches approach the game.
Sustainability Focus
As environmental concerns become increasingly important, how might lacrosse equipment manufacturers respond? We may see a greater emphasis on sustainable materials and manufacturing processes. This could include the use of recycled metals, biodegradable components, or even the development of closed-loop recycling programs for used equipment.
Choosing the Right StringKing Metal 2 for Your Game
With the variety of options available in the StringKing Metal 2 line, selecting the right shaft for your needs can seem daunting. However, by considering your playing style, position, and personal preferences, you can find the perfect Metal 2 to elevate your game.
Assessing Your Playing Style
How does your playing style impact your choice of Metal 2 shaft? If you’re a defensive player who relies on powerful checks and ground ball control, you might prefer a heavier option for added strength. Midfielders who need to balance offense and defense might opt for a standard weight shaft for versatility. Attack players looking for quick maneuvers might lean towards the ultralight version.
Consider Your Skill Level
Your experience and skill level can also influence your choice of Metal 2 shaft. Beginners might benefit from a standard weight shaft that offers a balance of control and power. More experienced players may have developed preferences for specific weights or feel and can choose accordingly.
Try Before You Buy
If possible, try out different weight options before making a purchase. Many lacrosse retailers offer demo programs or allow customers to handle display models. This hands-on experience can be invaluable in determining which Metal 2 variant feels most comfortable and natural for your playing style.
By carefully considering these factors and taking advantage of the Metal 2’s customization options, you can select a shaft that not only meets your performance needs but also helps you stand out on the field. Remember, the right equipment can boost your confidence and contribute to improved play, making the StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft a worthy investment for players looking to take their game to the next level.
StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft Assorted Colors & Weights Defender Shafts Sports & Outdoors malibukohsamui.com
StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft Assorted Colors & Weights Defender Shafts Sports & Outdoors malibukohsamui.com
StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft Assorted Colors & Weights,Shaft Assorted Colors & Weights StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse,: StringKing Metal 2 350 Defense Lacrosse Shaft (Black) : Sports & Outdoors,Fast worldwide shipping,Free Delivery & Gift Wrapping,The best-selling product,Thousands of items added daily,Lifestyle shop for people with imagination. & Weights StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft Assorted Colors malibukohsamui.com.
StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft Assorted Colors & Weights
: StringKing Metal 2 350 Defense Lacrosse Shaft (Black) : Sports & Outdoors. : StringKing Metal 2 350 Defense Lacrosse Shaft (Black) : Sports & Outdoors. Lighter. Stronger. Better. – We set out to design a better lacrosse shaft, and with Metal 2, we’ve done just that. Using advanced manufacturing and new materials, we were able to create a lighter lacrosse shaft while increasing strength per gram. 。 Preference is everything. – Metal 2 lacrosse shafts are available in multiple weights to offer a perfect lacrosse shaft for every playing style. Now you can select the combination of speed and strength needed to optimize your game. 。 Next-generation alloy. – We traveled to 8 countries in search of the best metals in the world. The result is an alloy stronger, lighter, and tougher than those used in aerospace, military, and automotive industries. With these advanced materials, we were able to make Metal 2 lacrosse shafts more durable without weighing you down. 。
StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft Assorted Colors & Weights
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StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft Assorted Colors & Weights
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StringKing Metal 2 Defense Lacrosse Shaft Assorted Colors & Weights
: StringKing Metal 2 350 Defense Lacrosse Shaft (Black) : Sports & Outdoors,Fast worldwide shipping,Free Delivery & Gift Wrapping,The best-selling product,Thousands of items added daily,Lifestyle shop for people with imagination.
StringKing Metal 2 Attack Lacrosse Shaft (Assorted Colors & Weights)
You may return most new, unopened items within 30 days of delivery for a full refund.
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Depending on where you live, the time it may take for your exchanged product to reach you, may vary.
If you are shipping an item over $75, you should consider using a trackable shipping service or purchasing shipping insurance. We don’t guarantee that we will receive your returned item.
String King Metal 2 Shaft
String King Metal 2 Shaft – Stylin Strings
String King Metal 2 Shaft
String King
<p>Made With Light-Weight Composite Material</p>
<p>Extremely Strong and Durable with React Flex Material (5 out of 10 flex)</p>
<p>The High Kick Point provides a quick release</p>
<p>This shaft is perfect for the crafty player who is all about quick feeds and finishes</p>
<p>Size: Attack and Goalie Length</p>
<p>6 Month Limited Manufacturers Warranty. </p>
Sporting Goods > Team Sports > Lacrosse
SHAFT-SK-M-2
SHAFT-SK-M-2
109.99
Stylin Strings Lacrosse
https://stylinstrings.com/Item/SHAFT-SK-M-2
This item is in stock and ready to ship. We will ship this item within 24 hours following your order.
Ordering from StylinStrings is easy. Follow these instructions for info on how to send a head in to StylinStrings, and how to build a complete custom lacrosse stick using our store.
Ordering Help & Instructions
String King Metal 2 Shaft
Made With Light-Weight Composite Material
Extremely Strong and Durable with React Flex Material (5 out of 10 flex)
The High Kick Point provides a quick release
This shaft is perfect for the crafty player who is all about quick feeds and finishes
Size: Attack and Goalie Length
6 Month Limited Manufacturers Warranty.
Out of stock items are presented below. Click an item name to receive an in stock email notification as soon as it becomes available.
StringKing Metal 2 145 Attack Lacrosse Shaft Black
StringKing Metal 2 135 Attack Lacrosse Shaft Black
StringKing Metal 2 142 Goalie Lacrosse Shaft Black
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This 10″ x 4″ two-sided stone is the largest sharpener DMT® makes. 44 New. Item Modifier in Bag Slot 1 (Press L+R) Leftovers x999. It is mainly in height. 8 mm x 200 m, 3 Rolls/Case 3M™ Scotchlite™ Reflective Material 5440 Diamond Mesh Industrial Wash Flame . Angular particles enhance speed and cutting. Beğenebileceğin diğer ilanlar. Dark noon 25. Dark Diamond PRO Mesh 4x12cm FRGB Fan, Full Akrilik Yan Panel, USB 3. %15 indirim 549,00 TL 466,96 TL. LOW CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 MOBO: MSI B450M PRO-VDH MAX mATX RAM: 2×8 Neo Forza Black Faye 3600MHz CL19 SSD: Sandisk 500GB Ultra 3D M. It is available in different colors. It’s easy to work with and not at all complicated to get started. The Lava Heron (Butorides sundevalli), also known as the Galapagos Heron, is a species of heron endemic to the Galapagos Islands. “BJ Tidwell brand ” an American manufacturer for over 50 Years! All Plywood Boxes. 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Free Ground shipping will be applied to order at checkout. View More Details . Dark Diamond PRO 4x12cm FRGB USB 3. Please ensure before submitting a resource that this license is appropriate to your material and that you own or have permission to use and share in this way . Dark moor. Diamond Pattern Mesh Coil Structure. From men’s tide watches to classic analog styles and the gear to go along, Nixon offers team-designed, custom-built men’s watches and accessories that fit perfectly with your lifestyle. Superior cleaning ability. It comes in several varieties, most of which work on PS4 and PC, and they do have some key . Sistemim ise şu şekilde: R3 3100 İşlemci, Rx5600XT Ekran kartı , B450M S2H Anakart , 8x2GB 3200MHZ. STX is a global sporting goods leader, innovating since 1970 in the categories of lacrosse, field hockey, and ice hockey. Description. Some restrictions apply. 100458dc 0000270f. Dark Diamond Pro 600w 4x12cm Fan 1x Usb3. Product Details. b2106fc0 00000000. 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90,000 How to change strings on a guitar
It is necessary to change strings on an acoustic guitar when the metal strings are corroded and the nylon ones have delaminated. The frequency of their replacement depends on the frequency of playing the instrument: professional musicians do this every month.
If you use the guitar for a short time, one set will last for several years.
Learn more about changing strings
What you need
To change strings on an acoustic guitar, use the following tools:
- String Turntable – Made of plastic, helps you change strings faster.
- Tuner for tuning pegs.
- Nippers – with their help get rid of the ends of the strings.
Step by step plan
Removing the strings
To remove the old kit, you need:
- Loosen the tuning pegs on the neck with a turntable or by hand so that they can be rotated comfortably. You need to twist until the strings hang.
- Unscrew the string from the tuning peg.
- The strings are removed from the plugs on the lower threshold. It is recommended to do this with a special device, but not with nippers or pliers, so as not to damage the nut.
Install new
Before installing the purchased strings, wipe the neck, pegs and nut from dust and dirt. This can be done at other times, but the timing of the string change is also appropriate. To install new strings, you need:
- Pass the string through the hole on the saddle on the side of the spool and tighten tightly with the plug.
- Thread the string through the hole on the tuning peg and leave 7 cm free end.
- Make one turn of the main string around the peg, pulling on the remaining end, with the peg on top.
- Make 1-2 more turns from the bottom of the tuning peg, under the end of the string.
How to change strings on a classical guitar
Changing strings on a classical guitar offers the same procedure as changing strings on an acoustic guitar. But there are differences in the tools themselves:
- Do not use metal strings on classic instruments. Over time, they pull out the saddle from the tension and their own weight.The acoustic guitar, in contrast to the classical one, has a reinforced structure, therefore it will withstand pulling.
- Nylon strings are purchased for a classic instrument. They are lighter, do not pull on the bar, do not pull out the nut.
String Change Checklist – Useful Cheat Sheet
To properly string the strings on a classical guitar, follow these simple rules:
- Do not bite the taut strings, otherwise they will bounce off and hit painfully.It also damages the neck.
- In order not to damage the peg, you need to pull the 1st string by 4 turns, the 6th string by 2.
- If the string begins to stretch, the peg must be turned more slowly, otherwise the pin will fly out.
- Installed strings cannot be tuned immediately to the desired sound to prevent breakage. If the caliber is less than 10, they are tuned to a tone or two lower and wait 20 minutes. The string takes a normal position, stretches to the required parameters.
- In the first days after installation, the strings will stretch, so the instrument needs to be tweaked.
- When changing strings for the first time, do not cut the ends to the limit with wire cutters. Due to inexperience, the musician may not stretch well, so it is recommended to leave the tips for a few days. After making sure that the strings are well taut, stretched out and played normally, you can cut the ends.
Possible problems and nuances
Changing strings on a guitar is associated with the following problems:
- The instrument does not sound as it should. If a nuance arises even after the correct tuning of the instrument, it is associated with poor-quality strings.After installing new products, be sure to wait 20 minutes until they fall into place, naturally stretching out.
- Acoustic guitar strings cannot be used for classical guitar, otherwise the nut will break out.
Answers to questions
1. How to properly change the strings on your guitar? | It is necessary to determine the type of instrument and purchase the appropriate strings from the store. For a classical guitar, these are nylon products, for an acoustic one – metal. |
2. Can any strings be played on the guitar? | It is impossible not to damage the instrument. |
3. What should I do if the strings sound wrong after changing? | Give them time to take natural traction. |
4. Can the guitar be played immediately after changing the strings? | You can’t. You need to wait 15-20 minutes. |
5. Why do new strings need to be adjusted after replacement? | New strings take their shape on the instrument, and therefore the instrument should be tweaked within a few days after replacement. |
Summary
Before changing strings on your guitar, you need to find the right products for your particular instrument type. It is recommended that you purchase the same strings as the guitar.
Replace carefully.
The instrument will require tuning within a few days.
90,000 Tension is … What is Tension?
TENSION – TENSION, tension, pl.no, cf. 1. Action according to Ch. pull pull. 2. Condition according to Ch. stretch stretch String tension. Spring tension. 3. Fusion of the edges of the skin at the wound (honey). Primary tension. ❖ Superficial … … Ushakov’s Explanatory Dictionary
tension – tension; accretion, stretch. Ant. compression, compression Dictionary of Russian synonyms. tension n., number of synonyms: 2 • tension (7) • … Dictionary of synonyms
TENSION – TENSION, i, cf.1. see pull, camping. 2. Fusion of the edges of the wound (special). Primary n. Ozhegov’s Explanatory Dictionary. S.I. Ozhegov, N.Yu. Shvedova. 1949 1992 … Ozhegov’s Explanatory Dictionary
tension – – [Ya.N. Luginsky, MS Fezi Zhilinskaya, Yu.S. Kabirov. English Russian Dictionary of Electrical Engineering and Electric Power Engineering, Moscow, 1999] Subjects of electrical engineering, basic concepts EN strain … Technical translator’s guide
tension – įtempimas statusas T sritis fizika atitikmenys: angl.tension; tensioning vok. Anspannung, f; Spannung, f rus. voltage, n; tension, n pranc. mise en tension, f; tensionnage, m … Fizikos terminų žodynas
tension – įtemptis statusas T sritis fizika atitikmenys: angl. tension vok. Spannung, f rus. tension, n pranc. tension, f … Fizikos terminų žodynas
tension – įtempis statusas T sritis Energetika apibrėžtis Vidinių jėgų, atsiradusių dėl išorinių poveikių, intensyvumas kūno taške, plote, erdvėje.Jis išreiškiamas veikiančios jėgos ir ploto, į kurį veikia jėga, dalmeniu. atitikmenys: angl. stress vok.…… Aiškinamasis šiluminės ir branduolinės technikos terminų žodynas
Tension – (La traction, Die Zugspannung) see Tension … F.A. Brockhaus and I.A. Efron
Tension – I av. 1. the process of action according to ch. pull I 2. The result of such an action; pulling I 2., pulling I 2 .. II cf.colloquial Fusion of the edges of the skin at the wound. Efremova’s Explanatory Dictionary. T.F. Efremova. 2000 … Efremova’s Modern Explanatory Dictionary of the Russian Language
tension – tension, tension, tension, tension, tension, tension, tension, tension, tension, tension, tension, tension (Source: “Full accentuated paradigm according to A. A. Zaliznyak”) … Forms of words
Performing preparatory work of medium complexity for the isolation of ship premises | Skill level (sublevel) | Borrowed from the original | |||
Original code | Professional standard registration number | ||||
dismantling plates polystyrene foam | |||||
Production of shaped insulating mattresses and bags according to drawings, sketches and measurements from the site | |||||
Production of segments from molding | |||||
Tightening and fastening of metal mesh for the installation of facing tiles | |||||
Preparation of devices for planing workpieces, reinforcing foam and cutting insulating materials | |||||
Preparation of mastic, ready-made recipe adhesives | |||||
Marking and cutting of insulating materials of complex contours according to patterns | |||||
Marking on the insulating material of the places of installation of pre-insulating saturation and cutting of holes | |||||
Cutting of insulating materials | |||||
SN Removing multi-layer foam insulation with hidden cables and rubber heating plates from the surfaces of mines, containers and lids | |||||
Removing polystyrene shells | |||||
Planing workpieces on a planer | Make marking of insulating materials of complex contours according to patterns, taking into account the rational use of materials in accordance with the drawings | ||||
Perform marking on the insulating material of the places of installation of pre-insulating saturation in accordance with the drawings | |||||
Carry out sawing of molded insulating materials segments of the required size in accordance with the technological documentation | |||||
Cut holes in the insulating material to install additional insulation saturation in s Compliance with the markings | |||||
Produce heat-insulating mattresses and bags in accordance with the technological process | |||||
Control the quality of the cut of insulating materials using patterns and patterns of complex contours | |||||
Edging and trimming cuts in accordance with the diagrams of design documentation | |||||
Prepare components for the preparation of insulating mastics, putties and adhesives | |||||
Cut insulating materials of complex contours according to patterns in accordance with the markup | |||||
equipment in the process of performing insulation works in accordance with the requirements of technological documentation | |||||
Perform slinging, tying and moving loads weighing up to 3 000 kg with the help of lifting and transport and special means within the workplace | |||||
Install the side slats of the table for the manufacture of thermal insulation mattresses in accordance with the specified thickness of the mattress | |||||
Required knowledge | Procedure for dismantling thermal insulation polystyrene foam plates | ||||
Sequence and methods of marking and cutting holes on insulating material for saturation parts | |||||
Rules for moving loads weighing up to 3000 kg and operation of special transport and cargo vehicles | |||||
Methods reinforcement of elastic and slab foam | |||||
Methods for making segments from molded insulating materials | |||||
Methods for preparing mastics, putties and adhesives for insulation | |||||
Time of use of the prepared insulating mastics, putties and adhesives | |||||
Technological process of manufacturing heat-insulating mattresses and bags | |||||
Technological process of preparing sprayed asbestos-cement mixture 9099100 Requirements for the quality of the obtained insulating materials | |||||
Other characteristics |
Can I put metal strings on a classical guitar?
Among acoustic and classical guitars, there is one specific variation.It looks like a classical guitar on which there are metal strings. This topic is the subject of controversy, and sometimes very aggressive. Now we will try to explain and tell what kind of beast it is, from our position, we are not talking about the ultimate truth. So, can you put metal strings on a classical guitar?
A bit of history
Guitars appeared as a legacy of the Soviet period, because then only classical guitars were on sale, with rare exceptions.These were mainly Czechoslovak Cremona and Musima Resonata, Musima Classic – what was transported from Germany.
All these guitars were classical, but at the same time it was impossible to get nylon strings, only metal strings were on sale. We put what was on the guitars without really thinking about whether it was possible to do it or not. People of that period who bought such instruments and got used to them now want a wide neck and metal strings.
Is it possible to pull iron on the classics?
The guitar in the video is almost 100% made like a classic, with the exception of some nuances:
- Anchor with which you can level the bar.It is needed to compensate for the tension of metal strings, which is several times stronger than the tension of nylon strings. If you just put iron strings on an unprepared classical guitar, then the neck is guaranteed to bend, in this case it will absolutely not work, and there is also a possibility that the stand on the deck will simply fly off.
- Tuners with metal stems, not plastic ones. This was done for the convenience of winding the strings, and for their reliable fastening. Metal strings don’t hold well on plastic stems, while nylon strings don’t hold well on iron ones.
The rest of the guitar is absolutely classic: a thin deck, a classic stand, a classic spring pattern. Why is it dangerous to install metal strings on such an instrument? The only drawback that the manufacturers overlooked is that the stand is not reinforced or modified in any way. “Iron” easily tears off such supports, and they have to be re-glued.
We advise you to pay attention all the same to classical guitars. If you like a crisp, brighter sound, try high tension or super high tension carbon strings.They are denser, harder and more sonorous. The sound will not be equivalent to metal, but you will feel a significant difference from nylon.
What alternatives are there?
As a rule, people who come for a classic guitar with metal strings get the same advice from us: choose standard guitars, either classical or acoustic. Yes, there is a slight difference in sound, but if we are talking now about Soviet instruments, then they did not always have at least some sound.We don’t see these guitars as a real instrument, it’s about the overall aesthetics. In the video, you can hear the difference in the sound of the classics from the hybrid.
Alternatively, you can check out the OM series guitars. These are standard folk, but with one interesting twist. The neck of the OM series guitars is not as narrow as on all other acoustics: not 43 mm, but 45. This is something between the neck of the classics and the acoustics, a kind of hybrid. Visually, you may not notice it, but when you pick up the instrument and start playing, the sensations are completely different, unusual and new.Literally after 10 minutes of playing, the guitar becomes like a native, an excellent alternative to the incomprehensible classic “monster”.
Conclusion
Of course, we cannot advise anything, and we will not. We’re just saying that there are various options to consider if you’re looking for a classic guitar with metal strings. Chances are, the right acoustic guitar can replace your favorite wide neck. Alternatively, you can put super heavy nylon or carbon strings on the classics, and the feel of them will be comparable to the feel of metal strings, you choose.
How to make your home modern and reliable – TECHNONICOL SHINGLAS
Slate
1.Installation of battens
A 50 × 50 mm timber is fastened with nails to the rafters, forming a batten. The standard pitch is 700-750 mm, for slopes with a slope of less than 20 °, a more frequent frame is made – every 450 mm.
At a distance of 120 mm from the ridge, they are mounted on an additional beam on both slopes for attaching the ridge strips. The lower – cornice – belt is made of double width. It consists of two beams nailed close to each other. Also, an additional frame is equipped around the chimney.But not back to back, but at a distance of 130 mm.
2. Waterproofing flooring
To protect against snow and possible leaks, it is advisable to lay roofing material under the slate. In this case, it is better to make the crate thicker so that the material does not sag. For the convenience of work, rolls of waterproofing are not rolled out immediately, but in the course of laying the sheets. The fabric overlap is performed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, usually it is 100–150 mm.
3. Laying sheets
It is more convenient to mount the slate in vertical rows from the eaves to the ridge, that is, from the bottom up.Laying should begin from the side from which strong winds are blowing – then the joints of the horizontal rows will be on the leeward side and snow will not fall into them. For a neat installation along the edges of the ramp, they drive in a nail, pull a thread between them and align all the sheets of a row along it.
In order not to split the slate with nails, holes are first drilled under them with a drill. The nails themselves are driven into the crests of the second and sixth waves, while not finishing off by 2-3 mm. Leave the ends on the back side as they are, you cannot bend them.
Vertical overlap of sheets is 130 mm, horizontal – one wave or more, if you need to adjust the size to a certain width. To avoid gaps, slate is laid in no more than two layers. To do this, the corners of the lower adjacent sheets in the upper and lower rows are trimmed with angle grinders with a disc on the stone.
4. Installation of additional elements
When the installation of the slate is completed, install the ridge strips. They are nailed to the top beam of the sheathing. Then, with the help of nails, the pediment strips are attached to the crate.
Bituminous corrugated sheets
1. Installation of the battens
A frame made of 50 × 50 mm timber is nailed to the rafters, starting from the eaves to the ridge. The interval of the lathing for slopes with an angle from 10 ° to 15 ° is 450 mm, if the angle is more than 15 °, the step is increased to 610 mm. To simplify installation, make a template from a piece of timber and set the lathing step along it.
2. Laying of sheets
Bitumen corrugated sheets are installed in a checkerboard pattern from the eaves to the ridge. It is recommended to start from the side of the prevailing winds, so that all joints are on the leeward side and are protected from snow.
First, the outermost sheet of the first row is laid, and then the outermost sheet in the second row. Further – the second sheet in the first row, after it – the second in the second, after – the first sheet in the third row and further in the same way. Even rows start with half of the sheet, cut lengthwise to achieve offset joints and avoid piling up several layers.
The material is easily cut across with a conventional hacksaw, and lengthwise with a simple knife. For marking, it is more convenient to use a colored pencil and a piece of paper.To prevent the saw teeth from clogging with bitumen and to slide better, it is enough to moisten them with water or oil.
Horizontally, the sheets overlap one wave at slope angles from 10 ° to 15 ° and two waves – at angles from 5 ° to 10 °. The vertical overlap is 300 mm for a slope of 5–10 °, 200 mm for angles of 10–15 ° and 120 mm for an angle of more than 15 °. At the bottom and top of the sheet, nails are driven into each wave, on the intermediate lathing beams – through one.
3. Installation of aprons and valleys
Chimneys and ventilation pipes are framed with a special covering apron, which is installed before the sheets are laid.The inner corners of the slopes are designed in a similar way: the valley elements are installed on them from the bottom up with an overlap of 150 mm, and the sheets are attached from above.
4. Installation of additional elements
After the installation of the roof, the ridge is installed with an overlap of 150 mm and fastening to each wave on both sides. Then, starting from the bottom up, tongs are nailed to the overhangs. On a four-pitched roof, the ribs are made in the same way as the ridge.
Profiled sheeting and metal tiles
Materials are the same in characteristics and differ only externally.Their installation is carried out using the same technology.
1. Installation of waterproofing
On top of the rafters, waterproofing is installed to protect against condensation from the inside. The material is fastened starting from the bottom, with horizontal strips with an overlap of 150 mm. The joints are glued together with tape.
2. Installation of the battens
Starting from the bottom through the waterproofing to the rafters, a batten of 25 × 100 mm board is also attached. The frame pitch is 450 mm for corrugated board and 300–350 mm for metal tiles, depending on the model.For quick installation, it is convenient to use a bar template so as not to measure the distance with a tape measure.
3. Installation of eaves planks
Before installing the roof, install eaves planks. They should be aligned and fastened with screws to the first batten board. The overlap of the parts should be 100–150 mm. It is worth starting the installation from the far corner of the roof so that the joints are not so conspicuous from the ground.
4. Installation of sheets
Roofing sheets are installed from right to left.The first strip is aligned with the eaves to avoid distortions. If the roof is uneven, the ridge will hide the defects, and the visible lower part will look beautiful.
Self-tapping screws are attached to the crate in the lower part of the sheet: along the perimeter in each wave, and in the middle through one. At the joints of the strips, screws are screwed only into the metal. With the correct marking of the lathing, the heads of the screws are covered with a step of the tiles, on the corrugated board they, of course, will be visible.
You can cut the material with scissors for metal, jigsaw, reciprocating saw with fine teeth or special slitting shears.Walking on the roof during installation is possible only in soft shoes, stepping into the deflection of the waves.
5. Installation of additional elements
End strips are fixed from bottom to top with an overlap of at least 100 mm and so that the upper crest of the wave overlaps. A seal is attached to the ridge strips, after which they are installed in the desired place with an overlap of at least 100 mm and fixed to the roof on both sides.
Ceramic and cement-sand tiles
Despite the differences in composition and properties, both types of tiles have the same shape, so their installation technology is identical.
1. Installation of a drip
A drip is attached to the eaves board at the bottom of the ramp with self-tapping screws to drain condensate and rain water accumulated under the roof. The overlap of the planks is 100–150 mm, and the extension beyond the outer rafters is no more than 300 mm.
2. Laying the foil
Roll out the waterproofing foil and fix it to the rafters in horizontal strips starting from the eaves. The vertical overlap of each strip is 100–150 mm, the outlets at the edges of the slopes are at least 150 mm.
3.Installation of battens
Counter battens made of 50 × 50 mm timber are attached along the rafters to create a ventilation gap. Then the main crate is mounted perpendicular to it, to which the tiles will be attached. The pitch is chosen based on the dimensions of the material, usually about 330 mm.
4. Laying the tiles
The tiles are installed in horizontal rows from right to left from the eaves to the ridge. To reduce the error, the dyeing lace beats off the lines on the extreme vertical rows and every 3-5 rows.The shingles are held by locks and are separately attached with anti-wind clamps only in the outer rows along the perimeter of the roof.
5. Design of the ridge and abutments
Before installing the ridge, the slopes are covered with a special aero element for ventilation of the under-roof space. It is attached to the ridge bar with a construction stapler. The tiles are laid, starting from the side of the prevailing winds, so that the joints are on the leeward side. Ridge clamps are used to fix the tiles.
Flexible shingles “TECHNONICOL SHINGLAS”
1. Installation of diffusion membrane
To ensure ventilation of the roof space to the rafters
attach the diffusion membrane. It is laid in horizontal strips with an overlap of at least 100 mm and glued with butyl rubber tape at the points of adjoining to the elements of building structures.
2. Installation of counterbeam and lathing
On top of the membrane along the rafters, a counter beam 50 × 50 mm is stuffed, which creates a ventilation gap and simultaneously fixes the diffusion membrane.All temporary fastenings with staples and nails are closed with a bar during installation.
On top of the counter-beam, a sparse crate is attached and along it
install a solid base of OSB-3 and FSF moisture-resistant plywood. During installation, the sheets are fastened with brushed nails or self-tapping screws with a gap of seams and gaps of 3-5 mm to compensate for linear expansion.
3. Installation of cornice strips and underlayment
The cornice overhang is reinforced with metal cornice strips, which are laid on the edge of the base and fixed with roofing nails in a checkerboard pattern with a pitch of 120–150 mm.The overlap of the strips is 30–50 mm, in the corners of the valleys they are cut and wrapped on the opposite slope.
Further along the entire roof area
mount the lining carpet. The material is laid parallel to the cornice with an indent of 10–20 mm to the bend of the cornice strip, then remove the protective film and stick the carpet tightly to the base. The overlap of the strips is 150 mm, all joints are coated with bitumen mastic.
4. Installation of roof tiles
To create an even shade before styling
mix shingles from several packages.The starting strip is mounted first, it is aligned along the cornice. Then, with an indent of 10–20 mm, the first row is laid on top. The shingles of the shingles are fastened with special nails with a wide head, which are hammered into the points indicated on the coating.
The second and subsequent rows are shifted to the left or right by half the petal. In this case, on each row, the direction of displacement is alternated. It is recommended to start laying from the center of the ramp in the form of a column or pyramid.
Before installation of the covering, a valley carpet is laid in the inner corners of the roof.Then the tiles are tried on and cut off according to the markings. When fastening at the valley, the back side of the tile is coated with bituminous mastic.
5. Roof decoration
In the ridge of the roof
an aero element for ventilation is installed, which is fixed to a solid base with nails or self-tapping screws through the factory holes. Above with special roofing nails, ridge tiles are nailed with an overlap of 30-50 mm so that the next petal overlaps the fasteners of the previous one.
For the decoration of the edges, the ordinary tiles are cut to create gaps between the slopes of 5 mm. Then on top, starting from the eaves, tile patterns are laid. They are coated with bituminous mastic from the back and nailed with four nails – two on each edge.
Joints to chimneys and walls are made with strips of valley carpet, which is attached to a surface that has been previously plastered and primed with a primer. From above, the elements are additionally fastened with a metal apron, and the joint is sealed with a sealant.
How to pull the netting on the fence – ways
After the first stage of installing the fence from the chain-link mesh has been completed: the pillars are installed and securely fixed, you can proceed to the direct installation of the mesh itself.
Despite the fact that tensioning the netting of the chain-link is a relatively simple process, it is better to familiarize yourself with the theoretical part and choose the appropriate method. Directly from the place of attachment depends on the choice of the method of how to pull the netting on the fence.It will be correct to break the entire fence into its constituent elements and carry out the work sequentially.
How to properly pull the mesh netting with your own hands
The process can be divided into several steps in the form of an instruction.
1. Mesh unwinding
In turn, there are two approaches to unwinding.
The first provides for the installation of the roll near one of the support pillars, and unwinding of the required length from the roll. The difficulty in this case is to unwind the strands by weight, which are formed by the chain-link wire when unwinding the roll.Due to the fact that the weight of the netting in the roll is significant, you need to do this work together.
After the mesh reaches the nearest support post, it is fixed on it with a temporary clamp or a piece of wire and the process continues. If one roll is not enough, you can connect two rolls of the chain-link mesh and continue working, fixing the mesh on the posts. To connect the rolls, the last turn of the previous roll is used, while ensuring that there is no displacement.
The second method is more difficult, however, it will be the only possible if you pull the net yourself (alone without helpers). In this case, a piece of the required length is unwound and leveled on the ground surface. After all the twists that will not allow the mesh to be pulled have been eliminated, the blank of the panel rises and is attached to the support pillar. This method is only good when the mesh is stretched in small pieces or stretched over the frame. In this case, it is advisable to connect the pieces of the mesh on a flat surface, and not by weight.Material prepared for the site www.moydomik.net
Note. When stretching the non-galvanized netting of the chain-link, the panel should be installed at a height of 100-150 mm above the ground. This will prevent premature corrosion in the lower part.
2. Stretching near the pillars
Pillars, in particular corner posts, are the supporting elements of the fence. Professionals do not recommend joining two pieces of netting at this point. How to pull the chain-link onto the posts so that it is reliable? Simple enough! To do this, work should be started from a pillar located in the entrance area and securely fastened.But the corner posts need to be wrapped with a net, while making sure that the panel does not warp and is stretched with force. A skewed or loose mesh will affect the appearance of the fence and its ability to resist sagging.
3. Braiding of carrier wire
The carrier wire, rope or reinforcement is designed to prevent the mesh from sagging under its own weight. With a fence height of up to 1,500 mm, only the upper broach can be dispensed with. At higher heights (from 1500 to 2000 mm), it is advisable to use two broaches: upper and lower.If the height of the fence exceeds 2000 mm, you need to use another support wire – in the middle of the panel.
As a rule, the greatest problems arise with how to stretch the netting cable of the chain-link, therefore manufacturers have provided special tensioning devices for different types of broaches:
- wire-through . The method involves fastening the wire (screwed onto the support post) on one side, and stretching on the other. For this can be used:
Broaching the chain-link with wire
– hook with long thread hook-and-eye lanyard .To do this, the wire is threaded at a distance of 30-50 mm from the edge, and then the lanyard is screwed in until it stops. The remaining piece of mesh is loosely pulled by hand and attached to the support post. Installing the mesh through a cable with a lanyard is one of the most economical and reliable ways.
Stretching the netting of the chain-link through a cable with a lanyard
– wire tensioner . This is a special device that allows you to easily pull the wire for the netting of the chain-link.
Tool for tensioning the netting of the chain-link
Note.If the length of the fence is more than 7 meters, it is recommended to install additional wire tension on the intermediate posts. This is done in order to reduce the load on the extreme supports, and to improve the quality of the mesh tension. For fastening, special clamps (plastic or metal) are used to keep the wire from sagging.
Catch of the chain-link mesh broach Scheme of fixation and tension of the chain-link mesh
4. Installation of the netting of the chain-link
A net is hung on the tensioned support wire.In this case, the place of passage of the wire can be the upper loop of each mesh element or the upper mesh of the mesh.
The tension on the frame is carried out on hooks that are welded on the inside of the frame. To prevent the netting from sagging in the frame, a wire is also pulled between the hooks. Due to the small distance between the hooks, it can be pulled manually.
In the same way, the netting is pulled on the aviary or on the fence for animals. Only its length changes.But the installation of the net on the slope is more difficult, since it is necessary to maintain a certain angle of inclination. In this case, users are advised to mount the mesh in separate pieces or to give preference to a frame fence made of a chain-link mesh.
Installation and tension of the chain-link mesh – video
After the tension is made and the fasteners are installed, you can take the fence from the chain-link into operation. The fact that the mesh is tensioned correctly is evidenced by the absence of distortions and sagging.
90,000 ETKS: RESTORER OF DECORATIVE PLASTERS AND STUFFED PRODUCTS
- ETKS
- Issue 57 ETKS
- Restoration work
- RESTORER OF DECORATIVE PLASTERS AND STUFFED PRODUCTS
§ 9.Restorer of decorative plasters and stucco products (3rd category)
3rd category
Description of works. Performing simple works during the restoration and conservation of decorative ancient plasters, details of mastic and molded products that are not damaged, with minor losses. Removal of late plasters and layers up to open “author’s” plaster on smooth surfaces. Nailing shingles to areas of plaster loss. Pulling the metal mesh over the finished frame.Washing and removal of dirt, stains and stains, old doodles and mastics. Disinfection and removal of mold. Sealing and pre-plastering of cracks, seams, chips. Hydrophobization of plaster coatings. Assembling and gluing the preserved fragments of decorative ornaments, making in the form of details from mastic and papier-mâché, details of fragments of jewelry. Preparation of mortar for reconstituted marble under the guidance of a restorer of decorative plasters and molded products of higher qualifications. Base device.Application of the solution to the plane, leveling, rubbing, surface sharpening. Preparing the tool for work. Preparation of materials for the preparation of mastic mass and papier-mâché.
Should know: types of basic materials used in the restoration of decorative plasters, mastic and stucco decorations; types of tools and devices used; surface preparation technology for continuous plastering and in places of loss; the composition of plaster solutions and the rules for their preparation according to the developed recipe; methods of washing and removing dirt, stains, stains and finishing touches from jewelry elements; technology for sealing cracks, seams, chips; methods of assembling and gluing jewelry elements.
Examples of work
1. Stucco products – strengthening on the wall, vault.
2. Walls, ceilings, pilasters, niches – recreation of decorative plaster.
§ 10. Restorer of decorative plasters and stucco products (4th category)
4th category
Description of works. Performing works of medium complexity in the restoration and conservation of decorative ancient plasters, parts of mastic and molded products that are not damaged, with minor losses and stained stains.Layer-by-layer removal of plaster to the original, leaving the old plaster as a “beacon”. Pulling out small stem rods using templates. Restoration of rods and other relief designs of the plastered surface in some places of loss with the treatment of contact points with the original “author’s” plaster layer. Preparation of decorative plasters according to the developed technology, ancient samples. Participation in the restoration of the surface of artificial marble. Grinding the surface with whetstone and polishing with wax.Cleaning and rinsing from dirt during the restoration of artificial marble.
Should know: properties of materials used in the restoration and conservation of decorative plasters, mastic and stucco decorations; the compositions of various solutions and the amount of additives in them; requirements for the quality of plastering and stucco work during the restoration of architectural monuments; the main style features of stucco, mastic decor, papier-mâché; technology for strengthening plaster using clamps; a technique for assembling and gluing fragments of decorative ornaments; ways of pulling rods, joining seams, rustication and their restoration; fundamentals of formator business; methodology of the device “beacons”.
Examples of works
1. Artificial marble – restoration.
2. Roots, seams – jointing.
3. Walls, ceilings, pilasters, niches – plastering with decorative plaster with slopes.
4. Walls, ceilings, pilasters, niches – plastering with decorative terrisite plasters and sgraffito.
5. Plaster – strengthening with setting of clamps.
§ 11. Restorer of decorative plasters and stucco products (5th category)
5th grade
Description of works. Performing complex works during the restoration and conservation of decorative ancient plasters, details of mastic and molded products with significant losses, destruction, which have lost the clarity of the relief. Strengthening the plaster, which has lagged behind the base, by injection of a binder solution. Preparation of binders and impregnating solutions, plaster, mastic and papier-mâché. Removal of insoluble salts by mechanical means. Complementing the loss of the original layer of ancient plaster with the treatment of contact points.Strengthening and hydrophobization of decorative ornaments with the preparation of impregnating compositions. Pulling rods according to templates or “beacons” complex in the profile, with a large offset. Removing the rod profiles for making a template. Installation of “beacons”, grinding and polishing of the surface during the reconstruction of artificial marble.
Should know: compositions of ancient plasters and methods of their application; stylistic features of decorative ornaments of different eras and styles; the technique of injecting plaster that has lagged behind the base; technology for removing insoluble salts by mechanical means; methods of pulling out rods that are complex along the profile, plastering again and supplementing the loss of curved surfaces, domes, vaults, arches, paddles, caissons; methods of making plasters “under a fur coat”, “under shading”, etc.etc .; techniques for assembling and gluing fragments of decorative ornaments and sculptures with reinforcement.
Examples of work
1. Arches, vaults, domes – plastering of newly curved surfaces.
2. Surfaces – decorative plaster “for a fur coat”, “for shading” using bush hammers, scarpels, Trojan horses.
3. Fragments of decorative ornaments of various relief, drawing and sculpture from plaster – mounting and gluing.
§ 12. Restorer of decorative plasters and stucco products (6th category)
6th category
Description of works. Execution of particularly difficult work during the restoration and conservation of decorative ancient plasters, details of mastic and molded products of high artistic value and severely destroyed. Strengthening exfoliated plaster by injection and impregnation with solutions. Removal of mold, efflorescence and rust from plaster by mechanical and chemical methods. Preparation of solutions of ancient plasters of different composition, determined as a result of laboratory tests. Development and production of templates of varying complexity according to sketches, drawings and drawing especially complex rods and sockets.Reconstruction of missing fragments and details of decorative ornaments based on surviving fragments and drawings. Installation of missing decorative pieces with fitting and fastening in place.
Should know: ways and methods of making decorative ancient plasters, their compositions; stylistic features of decorative ornaments in various directions; a method of strengthening the complex destruction of the plaster layer and removing mold, efflorescence and rust in various ways; rules for the development and manufacture of templates based on sketches and drawings; plastering technology again and recreation of the loss of the plaster layer on surfaces of complex shape; techniques for assembling fragments of decorative ornaments with fitting and fastening in place.
Examples of work
1. Columns, pilasters, beams of variable cross-section with capillaries – reconstruction of the loss of the plaster layer on curved surfaces.
2. Artificial marble – reconstruction with the selection of pigments and the preparation of a multicolor solution on curved surfaces, variable cross-section, with droplets.
§ 13. Restorer of decorative plasters and stucco products (7th grade)
7th category
Description of works. Performing complex work during the restoration and reconstruction of decorative plaster on the facades of ancient buildings and architectural monuments based on preserved photographs and documents. Preparation of solutions of ancient decorative plasters according to the developed recipes. Reconstruction and restoration of artificial marble architectural details. Restoration and reconstruction of artificial marble surfaces. Preparation of binders and impregnating solutions. Development and production of volumetric models of molded parts based on sketches and photographs during the restoration of ancient buildings, structures and architectural monuments.Reconstruction and restoration of molded products, artificial marble columns.
Should know: methods of performing work during the restoration and reconstruction of decorative plaster and molded products; methods of fixing decorative plaster and stucco products; rules for the development and manufacture of volumetric models of molded products based on sketches and photographs; technology of recreation and restoration of decorative plaster.
New application rules from 1 July 2016. From July 1, 2016, employers are required to apply professional standards if the requirements for the qualifications that an employee needs to perform a certain job function are established by the Labor Code, federal laws or other regulatory legal acts (Federal Law of May 2, 2015 No.No. 122-FZ).
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