How do lacrosse shooting strings impact performance. What are the key components of a well-strung lacrosse pocket. How can players optimize their shooting strings for improved accuracy and control.
The Evolution of Lacrosse Mesh: Hero 3.0 Technology
The lacrosse world has witnessed a significant advancement in mesh technology with the introduction of Hero 3.0 by ECD Lacrosse. This innovative mesh offers players a new level of consistency and feel, setting a new standard in the industry. Let’s explore the key features that make Hero 3.0 stand out:
- Innegra Core Weave: Enhancing durability and pocket stability
- Repel+ Coating: Superior water resistance for all-weather performance
- Lighter Weight: Improved maneuverability and reduced fatigue
- Textured LTH Fibers: Enhanced feel and ball control
The Innegra Core Weave is a game-changer, incorporating more Innegra fibers into the mesh’s core. This results in a 10% improvement in bagging resistance, ensuring that your pocket maintains its shape and consistency for longer periods. How does this benefit players? It translates to more consistent throws and shots, reducing the need for frequent adjustments during gameplay.
Water resistance has always been a concern for lacrosse players, especially during inclement weather. The Repel+ Coating addresses this issue head-on, shedding 10 times more water than previous versions. This means that even in rainy conditions, your pocket remains dry, maintaining its performance characteristics throughout the game.
Weight reduction is crucial for player agility and stamina. Hero 3.0 achieves a remarkable 27% weight reduction compared to its predecessors. This lighter weight contributes to faster stick movements, quicker shots, and reduced arm fatigue during extended play.
The incorporation of textured LTH Fibers adds another dimension to the player’s experience. These fibers are textured before the mesh is constructed, resulting in enhanced feel and control. This increased tactile feedback allows players to have a better sense of the ball’s position in the pocket, leading to more accurate passes and shots.
The Rock-It Pocket Hybrid: Revolutionizing Lacrosse Pocket Design
While mesh technology continues to evolve, traditional pocket designs are also undergoing significant innovations. The Rock-It Pocket Hybrid, introduced in 2015, represents a breakthrough in pocket design, offering players a unique combination of mesh and traditional pocket characteristics.
Key Features of the Rock-It Pocket Hybrid:
- Twisted Sister Strings: Enhanced ball control and tracking
- Reduced material usage: Lighter overall weight
- Customizable pocket depth: High, mid, or low options
- Minimal break-in time: Game-ready out of the box
- Weather-resistant performance: Consistent feel in various conditions
The Twisted Sister Strings are a standout feature of the Rock-It Pocket Hybrid. By replacing the outer leathers with these innovative strings, the pocket achieves a narrower scoop opening, often meeting college legal specifications of 6 inches or less. This design enhancement improves ball protection and tracking without sacrificing the catching area.
How does the Hybrid pocket compare to traditional designs in terms of weight? The reduction in materials used results in a significantly lighter pocket. This weight reduction contributes to faster stick handling and reduced player fatigue, especially during long games or tournaments.
One of the most appealing aspects of the Rock-It Pocket Hybrid is its versatility. Players can customize the pocket depth to suit their playing style, choosing from high, mid, or low pocket options. This level of customization allows players to fine-tune their stick to match their specific throwing and shooting preferences.
Understanding Pocket Break-In and Maintenance
A common concern among lacrosse players is the break-in period for new pockets. The Rock-It Pocket Hybrid addresses this issue by offering a pocket that is essentially game-ready upon arrival. However, to optimize performance, players are advised to follow a simple break-in procedure:
- Wet the pocket with warm water before first use
- Allow the pocket to dry naturally, shaping it as desired
- Use the stick in practice sessions to further customize the feel
How long does it typically take for a lacrosse pocket to fully break in? While traditional pockets may require several weeks of play to reach optimal performance, the Rock-It Pocket Hybrid significantly reduces this timeframe. Most players report that the pocket settles into its final form within a week of regular use.
Maintenance is another crucial aspect of pocket performance. The Hybrid design minimizes the need for frequent adjustments, but players should still be aware of potential changes due to weather conditions. Regular inspection and minor tweaks can help maintain consistent performance throughout the season.
Optimizing Shooting String Placement for Enhanced Performance
Shooting strings play a crucial role in determining the release point and trajectory of the ball. The Rock-It Pocket Hybrid introduces a unique approach to shooting string configuration:
- Single, adjustable shooting string near the scoop
- Customizable tension for personalized feel
- Simplified adjustment process for quick on-field tweaks
Why does the Hybrid design use only one shooting string? This minimalist approach allows for easier adjustments while still providing excellent ball control. The string’s placement near the scoop helps create a consistent release point, leading to improved shooting accuracy.
Players can fine-tune the pocket’s performance by adjusting the tension of the shooting string. A tighter string typically results in a faster release and potentially more accurate shots, while a looser string can provide a softer feel and potentially more hold.
The Impact of Weather on Pocket Performance
Weather conditions can significantly affect the performance of lacrosse pockets. Both the Hero 3.0 mesh and the Rock-It Pocket Hybrid are designed to minimize these effects, but players should still be aware of potential changes:
- Humidity: Can cause some stretching in leather components
- Rain: May temporarily affect pocket depth and ball release
- Extreme heat: Can lead to drying and stiffening of materials
- Cold: May cause materials to become less pliable
How can players maintain consistent performance across various weather conditions? Regular maintenance and occasional re-adjustment of strings can help. Additionally, storing sticks in a climate-controlled environment when not in use can prolong the life of the pocket and maintain its optimal shape.
Comparing Mesh and Traditional Pockets: Pros and Cons
The debate between mesh and traditional pockets has been ongoing in the lacrosse community for years. The introduction of advanced mesh like Hero 3.0 and hybrid designs like the Rock-It Pocket has blurred the lines between these categories. Let’s examine the pros and cons of each:
Mesh Pockets (e.g., Hero 3.0):
Pros:
- Consistent performance in various weather conditions
- Minimal break-in time
- Easy to maintain and adjust
- Lightweight design
Cons:
- May lack the “feel” preferred by some traditional players
- Limited customization options compared to traditional pockets
- Potential for reduced hold in some designs
Traditional Pockets:
Pros:
- Highly customizable
- Excellent ball feel and control
- Preferred by many elite players for its “classic” performance
Cons:
- Longer break-in period
- More susceptible to weather-related performance changes
- Requires more frequent maintenance and adjustments
Hybrid Pockets (e.g., Rock-It Pocket Hybrid):
Pros:
- Combines benefits of both mesh and traditional designs
- Excellent ball control and consistency
- Minimal break-in time
- Weather-resistant performance
Cons:
- May require a learning curve for players used to pure mesh or traditional pockets
- Limited availability compared to more common pocket types
Which type of pocket is best for a player? The answer depends on individual preferences, playing style, and position. Many players find that experimenting with different pocket types helps them discover the optimal setup for their game.
Legal Considerations: Ensuring Your Pocket Meets Regulations
Regardless of the pocket type chosen, players must ensure their stick meets the legal requirements for their level of play. Both the Hero 3.0 mesh and the Rock-It Pocket Hybrid are designed with these regulations in mind, but it’s essential to understand the key measurements:
- Scoop opening width: Typically 6 inches or less for college play
- Pocket depth: Ball must be visible above the sidewall when held horizontally
- Shooting string placement: Must be within a specified distance from the scoop
How can players ensure their pocket remains legal throughout the season? Regular checks using a standard lacrosse ball and ruler can help maintain compliance. Additionally, being aware of how weather and use can affect pocket depth is crucial for staying within regulations.
Customizing Your Pocket: Tips for Optimal Performance
While both the Hero 3.0 mesh and the Rock-It Pocket Hybrid offer excellent out-of-the-box performance, many players prefer to fine-tune their pockets for personal preferences. Here are some tips for customizing your pocket:
- Experiment with shooting string tension to find the perfect balance of hold and release
- Adjust sidewall strings to modify pocket depth and shape
- Consider your playing style when choosing between high, mid, or low pocket placement
- Use wall ball practice to test and refine your pocket’s performance
- Seek advice from experienced teammates or coaches for personalized tips
How often should players adjust their pockets? This varies depending on usage and environmental factors, but a general rule of thumb is to inspect and make minor adjustments weekly during the season. More significant changes may be necessary less frequently, perhaps monthly or as needed based on performance.
Remember that finding the perfect pocket setup is often a process of trial and error. Don’t be afraid to make small changes and test the results in practice before implementing them in game situations.
Hero 3.0
– ECD Lacrosse
Hero is Back
Our Most consistent piece of mesh with that just-right kind of feel. A.K.A. our best mesh yet.
Hero is Back
Our Most consistent piece of mesh with that just-right kind of feel. A.K.A. our best mesh yet.
Innegra Core Weave
This new weave adds more Innegra fibers to the mesh’s core, leading to a 10% improvement in bagging resistance. A.K.A. your pocket is going to stay the same longer.
Innegra Core Weave
This new weave adds more Innegra fibers to the mesh’s core, leading to a 10% improvement in bagging resistance. A.K.A. your pocket is going to stay the same longer.
Repel+ Coating
Our new Repel+ Coating sheds away 10X more water. Rainy days may mean soggy socks, but at least your pocket will stay dry.
Repel+ Coating
Our new Repel+ Coating sheds away 10X more water. Rainy days may mean soggy socks, but at least your pocket will stay dry.
Lighter Weight
An increase of Innegra in Hero3.0 also leads to a 27% weight reduction, making this a seriously lightweight piece of mesh.
Lighter Weight
An increase of Innegra in Hero3.0 also leads to a 27% weight reduction, making this a seriously lightweight piece of mesh.
Textured LTH Fibers
The LTH Fibers are now textured before the mesh is made, which adds even more feel to your pocket.
Textured LTH Fibers
The LTH Fibers are now textured before the mesh is made, which adds even more feel to your pocket.
One of the most popular pockets in lacrosse, ready to go right off the shelf.
You have never felt control like this.
Key Features:
– 10X Increased Water Repellency
– 27% Lighter Weight
– 10% Improved Resistance to Bagging
– Made in the U.S.A.
Key Features:
– 10X Increased Water Repellency
– 27% Lighter Weight
– 10% Improved Resistance to Bagging
– Made in the U.S.A.
Also Available from our Retailer Partners:
Hybrid | Rock-It Pocket
“The Stick Guys”
30 Years of Stringing Experience
THE ROCK-IT POCKET HYBRID (new for 2015)
Less string makes for lightest Rock-It Pocket yet…
– TWISTED SISTER STRINGS (outer Leathers are gone): Help to pinch the head opening to protect and track
the ball.
They let the ball bang into the sides more, mesh style, than any other Rock-it Pocket has,
while making the scoop opening measurement basically become narrowed to college legal specs at 6″
or even less, depending on the head model. Meanwhile no catching area is lost. Nothing is done that
alters the head in any way, yet it is altered. You kind of have to try it to believe it. In a HS legal
head it would make the whole head sort “Canadian Box” worthy, skinny top to bottom, just
like Olive Oil (as in Popeye). You still have to make every pocket your own, always, but I think the
ceiling for consistency with this Hybrid in any head model is through the roof based on early tests done
by players and coaches.
THE HYBRID – FEATURES AND INSTRUCTIONS The Hybrid begins with less material for the result of lighter
overall weight. The Hybrid Rock-it Pocket uses just 2 leathers. The sidewall string is a little lighter
weight. There are less ‘diamonds’ strung in. Nothing is sacrificed in the area of durability.
TWISTED SISTER top strings pinch the pocket at the top of the head for better tracking and firmer ball
control. The Hybrid has only one throw, or shooting string that is easily adjustable. It is placed far
up in the head near the scoop. The pocket shape makes the ball act a little more like it does in a mesh
pocket, and the Hybrid can be custom ordered high, mid, or low pocket, depending on your playing
style.
Like all Rock-it Pocket styles, the Hybrid pocket is built-in and game ready, with little or no break-in
time necessary. We recommend wetting the pocket with hot/warm water before the first time that you play
with it. This helps to set the knots into the leather and to shape it. After the first week or so the
pocket should be settled in for a consistent and durable life of high level lax and almost no
maintenance. Wet weather is not a problem, but note that all kinds of weather and other things can
affect the feel and performance of the pocket in different ways in most pockets.
It is the nature of the
pocket beast, but we have taken that out of the equation as much as we could. There are only really two
simple adjustment options and each has great range for dialing in the pocket just how you like it. A
player can look at the shape of this pocket and they will know how it performs. Keep the good shape!
When the pocket leaves here we set it with the combination that we think plays easiest for anyone, but
tweaks go a long way with this Hybrid.
ADJUSTMENTS AND CARE – YES, A LITTLE CHANGE GOES A LONG WAY. Leather can stretch, but only a tiny
bit compared to the olden leather days, and the poly string only lets it stretch a certain amount
because it does NOT stretch. It is easy to keep the pocket shape. Make sure the 2 center leathers are
even and not quite snug and hug the ball in the mid section. A small leather adjustment can make a huge
difference for release. When adjusting leathers, soak them in warm water first. It is easier to both
untie, and to retie, much neater.
The leathers stay smooth and will not curl if taken care of just a
little. No saggie leathers! The one stock built-in shooting string is easily adjustable and placed very
high in the head, and that can change the release point on shots and give a player range with his
release point on a given throw or shot as well.
(updated by Flip, 09-30-15) We had a few objectives in mind when we began
designing for the new Rock-it Pocket Hybrid. In an effort to make a lighter-than-ever
Rock-it Pocket, we have used a little bit less string, and some of it is a little thinner as well. There
are two leathers only. There are fewer ‘diamonds’ and therefore not as many knots, as in less string
overall. The pocket result is almost a full ounce lighter than the Classic Rock-it
Pocket, and meanwhile as light as any mesh on the market.
The Hybrid gives a player a little more of that mesh feel, too, where the ball is able to kind of bump
into the sidewalls as you cradle and it will still be safely, accurately in the track.
While the middle leathers center and hold the ball in the track much like a Classic
always has, the side leathers have been replaced by what we call “Twisted
Sisters”. These are two thin strings twisted tight and fire-formed into an extremely
STIFF single string and placed where side leathers would go, at the top where the head is widest, but
then they stop just a few inches down, again keeping things on the lighter side. With heat we melt the
twisted poly sisters in order to make them stiff so as to act strong, sort of like a sidewall does. This
affect is much like pinching the head. You gain more control of the ball in the pocket, and in this case
zero catching area is lost.
Keep a pocket shape having good shape and the (any) pocket will perform better. Look at it and do it
often, as if it is your girlfriend (or other whatever), not your slave for success. Try not to expect
more than you deliver and the boy/stick marriage can last a long time.
Your pocket can talk.
I did something new (for me) with the Hybrid. I sort of strung it
backwards, or maybe inside out might be more accurate. I started with the part I usually finish with,
and this path led me to some new and different, interesting stringing territory. Usually I put throw
strings in early to help to structure the pocket, but here I waited to do them as the last thing done
and with as few as possible because the shape does the work. The result was that I only ended up putting
in one throw string and no laces at all because the shape held form for throwing and shooting so well
without ‘more’. I found also that where that single, adjustable string is placed is very important to
consistent performance. Makes sense, right? When you are only using one it has to be on the right line.
Spacing is everything in sport. This lack of throw string #’s or volume of them also contributes to the
lighter weight of the Hybrid. The sort of proto-type Hybrid throw or shooting string in
the head pictured below is not high enough.
Now I am making them closer to the scoop. It truly is a
release point. The work that hockey laces usually much lower down in the head is done by the shape of
the pocket and the “Twisted Sisters” in the Hybrid.
We have, as a pocket team here at Rock-it Pocket, tried to combine and make comfortable a design that is
a bit of a crossover and has features that reflect the best of combining traditional materials and a
little bit of mesh thinking to give players another clearly unique pocket choice. We wanted simpler, not
just more stuff. We wanted neat and tidy to limit pocket ‘noise’ in a player’s head. We are finding that
the Hybrid works great in any head. The Hybrid seems to work
especially well with heads that like to have the pocket placed high, probably because of the impact of
the twisted sisters. However, a feature I like is how easy it is to make this
one with a choice of “Low”, “Mid”, or “High” for ball placement or maximum depth.
Changing Guitar Strings: A Complete Guide
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Every novice musician sooner or later faces the need to change the strings. In fact, it turns out that not everyone knows and fully understands this process. Therefore, we decided to combine information from online articles and videos into one material: today we will tell you how to change guitar strings correctly.
We have divided our material into two parts: replacing metal strings (for example, we consider the case of an acoustic guitar, the process of changing strings on an electric guitar is based on the same principles, and it is usually less complicated) and replacing nylon strings .
Briefly about why the stringing technology varies so much depending on the material of the strings themselves:
- Nylon synthetic strings are softer, they have less tension;
- Metal strings create more tension and “swing” the guitar more: hence, including a more voluminous and powerful sound;
- On acoustic guitars, unlike classical ones, the saddle has a reinforced structure. Hence the first rule – do not put metal strings on a classical guitar – they can simply rip out the saddle of !
- Also in acoustic guitars, due to the greater rigidity of the strings, a truss rod is used to protect the neck from bending.
How do you tell an acoustic guitar from a classical guitar? Take a look at the image below and you will understand everything. We will not touch on the differences in the size and shape of the soundboard and neck (after all, they are different), but we will pay attention to the peg mechanics and the saddle.
Metal strings are not attached to the string itself, but are “drowned” deep into the body of the guitar with the help of special pins.
Classical guitar heads usually have a plastic horizontal shaft that is wider than the shaft on acoustic guitars. In the case of acoustics, it is made of metal and is located vertically.
How to change metal strings on an acoustic guitar?
This process has several stages – let’s consider each of them in detail.
- First, loosen all the pegs so that the strings hang freely over the neck and soundboard. Don’t be afraid of the sudden drop in string tension that counterbalances the force of the truss rod. For those 30-60 minutes that you spend on changing the strings, the neck will not lead.
It is very convenient to loosen the strings with special inexpensive turntable accessories.
- When the string is loose enough, you can just gently pull it out of the tuner.
- Next, you need to get the pins that fix the strings in the saddle. Most musicians do this with pliers or a screwdriver, which naturally leaves the pins scratched, scuffed, and in the worst cases, cracked.
You and I are not such barbarians, so we will use a special tool (by the way, ordinary turntables for tuning pegs almost always have a cutout specifically for dismantling the pins).
- When the pin is removed, we can remove the string, roll it up and dispose of it.
- So, your guitar is without strings. Hug and take pity on her Wipe it from dust, clean the fretboard from dirt and grease (they collect between the fret plates of even the cleanest guitarists), treat the guitar elements with special tools.
Learn more about proper guitar care >>>
- It’s time to string new guitar strings! In general, it is recommended to do this in pairs, and not in order – it’s faster and more convenient. That is, first you set the 6th and 1st string, then the 5th and 2nd, and finally the 3rd and 4th.
That is, first you set the 6th and 1st string, then the 5th and 2nd, and finally the 3rd and 4th.Insert the ball-tip of the string into the hole in the saddle and fix it with a pin, firmly fix all the elements.
- First we completely thread the free end of the string into the peg and then move it back a little (by 5-6 centimeters) – this reserve is needed to make a couple of turns around the peg shaft.
We form 1-2 turns with a peg bud or with a turntable. Try to make no more than 3 turns, while one of them is better to put over the protruding “tail” of the string, and the rest – under it. So the string will be securely fixed in the tuning pegs, and many turns will not be required.
Remember: a large number of turns is an evil that causes the guitar to get out of tune more often!
Therefore, we form a small neat knot. If you look at the headstock from the front of the guitar, then 1-3 strings should be wound clockwise, and 4-6 – counterclockwise.
- It is not necessary to tighten the string strongly yet – it is important to achieve reliable fixation in the peg hole, as well as to form the minimum working tension. Try to wind and tension each string very smoothly, without sudden movements and without overstretching.
- Next, we use wire cutters (by the way, those that can be found on pliers are already suitable here) and cut off the excess length of the string from its free end to the peg. Leave an allowance of 1-2 cm.
- Finally, you can tune each string in pitch. Don’t be discouraged if the tuning floats a little and the guitar goes out of tune – this usually lasts for about a day due to the strings “setting” into working condition and stretching a little. Just adjust it periodically. You can speed up the shrinkage process by making bends on each string.
In general, as we said, the process of changing the strings takes about half an hour.
Gradually, you will understand how to change the strings on your guitar in 10-15 minutes, and you will be able to do it even in emergency situations right before going on stage or before a rehearsal.
How to string nylon strings on a classical guitar?
Now it’s time to find out the specifics of replacing nylon strings – and believe me, there are enough of them.
- Dismantling the old strings. You can either use the same scheme as with metal strings, or simply loosen the string slightly and then cut it with scissors over the fingerboard. If you choose the second option, make sure you loosen the string enough so that it doesn’t bounce and hurt you.
- We unravel the knot of the string on the saddle and take it out, we also take the other end of the string out of the peg.
- We remove the strings for everyone and do not forget about the care of the instrument: we wipe the soundboard, fretboard, fretboards, if necessary, use special tools.
- Now it’s time to string new strings. We use the same pairwise scheme as in the case of an acoustic guitar and metal strings: first we string the 1st and 6th strings, then the 2nd and 5th, and finish with the 3rd and 4th.
But here we have the most important difference between nylon and metal strings: there is no ball on either end! We tell you what to do with it.
Let’s start with the thickest string. We stretch it into the hole of the string holder by 10-11 cm.
- Pass the tip around the string and thread it through the loop – we got a blank for the knot.
- Now we press the main part of the string to the body – this must be done to avoid unraveling the knot in the future.
- Now we take the tip of the string and pull the main part of the string and its tip in different directions, thereby tightening the knot.
- Pass the second free end of the string through the hole on the tuning shaft.
- Make a half turn of the tuning pin shaft so that the tip of the string is on top.
- Wrap the tip around the body of the string.
- Next, rotate the peg and achieve the desired tension. In general, 3-4 turns are enough for nylon strings.
- Now about setting the unwound strings (usually 1-3 strings are pure nylon with no metal wrap). We also thread them 10-11 cm.
- We begin to form a loop in the same way – we draw the free end of the string under the main part.
- We turn the tip around the main part of the string – but not once, but several times. By the way, you can do the same with the strings in the winding – in general, this is a matter of taste.
- We tighten the knot in the same way – we pull the tip and the working part of the string in different directions. Be sure to leave a margin at the end of the string so that it does not pop out of the knot.
- The second end is installed in the peg in the same way as wound strings.
- That’s it! It remains to pull the remaining four strings by analogy.
- We also carefully trim the ends of the strings to get rid of unsightly tails.
It will take you a long time the first time (by the way, you may not succeed – for a test, try cheap sets of strings until you get used to it, for example, these).
Be aware that the process of “shrinking” and tightening the strings in the case of nylon takes longer – sometimes up to 6-7 days. To speed up the process, you can first stretch the strings a quarter to half a tone higher than necessary.
However, be careful if you have a set of high tension strings so they don’t break. Don’t forget to tune your guitar.
Now some life hacks:
- Try to form the turns closer to the middle of the shaft and the hole for the string. Avoid turns that are formed close to the headstock tree (problem areas are indicated by red arrows in the photo below) – with such a tensioning scheme, the risk of breaking the string during the next tuning increases significantly.
- Avoid severe bending of the string after the saddle in the area of the peg mechanics (the problem area is highlighted in red in the photo above). To do this, form coils on the 1st and 6th string to the right of the string hole, and on the remaining strings – to the left. Schematically, we depicted this recommendation in the photo:
- As you may have noticed in the photo above, additional single knots are also visible at the very tip of the string near the nut. They are optional and are an additional insurance against slipping out of the string from the loop.
They are optional and are an additional insurance against slipping out of the string from the loop.Some sets of nylon strings are already sold with this insurance: for this, thickenings of the string are formed at the production stage. In this case, no additional knots are required.
Note also that individual sets of nylon strings already have balls at the end, similar to metal strings. This makes it possible to change guitar strings many times faster and without additional manipulations with knots.
Classical guitar strings with balls >>>
How to change the strings on an acoustic guitar
If you have recently purchased a guitar and are taking your first steps in music, sooner or later there will come a time when you will have to change the strings on the instrument yourself for the first time. This procedure is quite simple, but there are several important nuances that you need to pay attention to so as not to damage the guitar and achieve excellent sounding and good action of new strings.
To help beginner guitarists, we have prepared this article, where we will try to mention all the important points.
When should I change my old strings for new ones?
Depending on how much you play, in what conditions the instrument is stored and used, how you care for the strings (if at all), which strings you use, the time interval before changing them can be very different and differ significantly. (Professional musicians usually make changes before each concert, even if they take place every day, and a hobby guitarist can play the same strings for six months without any visible problems). Therefore, when deciding on a replacement, we advise you to focus not on the time that has passed since the installation of the previous kit, but on its current state. If the guitar sounds noticeably less sonorous than before, the strings begin to darken, it is worse to build in those positions where everything was fine before, after playing a note, the sound decays faster than before – all these are clear signs that it is time to replace them.
It is also recommended to change immediately after purchasing a new tool. The fact is that although the instrument is new, its journey from the factory to the hands of a musician can be long, and during this time the strings installed at the factory lose their quality. Installing a new kit, you will be pleasantly surprised how much the instrument sounds better than when you bought it.
Which strings should I choose to install?
There are a huge number of strings on the market today, and advice on choosing a specific set is a topic for a separate article. Here I would like to give a simple recommendation: if possible, put strings on the guitar of the same thickness that were installed on it before (if everything suited you at the same time). Otherwise, when setting strings of a different thickness, you will most likely have to additionally adjust the neck deflection with a truss rod, and this is not always easy to do without proper experience. Without adjusting the truss rod, one may experience difficulty with uncomfortable string heights above the neck or unpleasant fret rattles.
Do I need to change the whole set if one string breaks?
A very common question that cannot be answered unambiguously. In general, breaking it during the game is not so simple. If you managed to do this, most likely it was quite old, an oxidation process developed, as a result of which it lost its strength. In this case, it can be guaranteed that the remaining strings are also in a deplorable state and need to be replaced. Another case is if you broke it during the tuning process, due to inexperience significantly dragging it, the rest sound and look good. Here you can only replace this string, while it is advisable to install a new one of the same thickness as the broken one.
Acoustic Guitar String Replacement
The order in which you change the strings is not important, you can start with any, but most guitarists prefer to start with a sixth string. To begin, loosen the tension on each string until they are free to dangle by turning the corresponding peg.
If you completely remove it from the peg, nothing bad will happen either. For convenience and to save time, you will need a special turntable, which you can buy at any music store. Often it is combined with string cutters and a device for removing fixing pegs (pictured below). If there is no turntable, you can do without it. When turning the peg, make sure you are turning it in the correct direction, otherwise you will break it instead of loosening it.
Removing fixing pins
To clamp the string in the tailpiece, special plastic or wooden pegs are used, which must be carefully removed to release it. Don’t try this until the string is loose, you will most likely break the peg. It is best to use the same pinwheel or ordinary wire cutters to remove the pegs, as shown in the photo. In extreme cases, any other object with which it is convenient to pry the peg from below, for example, a spoon, will do. After removing the pegs, you can freely remove the ends of the strings from the hole in the tailpiece and remove them from the guitar.
Guitar inspection and cleaning
When the strings are out, you are in the best position to take care of your instrument. Dirt accumulates on the soundboard and on the fretboard between the frets, which must be removed with a dry or slightly damp (not wet!) rag. To moisten the fingerboard, it is useful to treat it with special lemon oil, which is also sold in music stores (this is very useful for rosewood and ebony fingerboards, but is absolutely not compatible with lacquered maple fingerboards). Check that the fixing nuts of the string pegs are tight. It happens that they become loose over time, and while they are stretched, it is imperceptible. If desired, you can polish the body to perfection with a special guitar body polish.
Installing new strings
Lower the end of the string, on which the so-called “lamb” is fixed, into the hole in the string holder, and then insert the peg into the same hole. Pull it towards you until the moment when the lamb rests on the peg and it will thus be fixed.
Pass the other end into the hole of the corresponding peg. Insert the string in such a way that after fixing it on the peg, it lies freely on the fingerboard, and you can lift it 3-4 cm up. It is important, on the one hand, to have a margin of the length of the working part of the string for winding several turns on the peg. On the other hand, this margin should not be very large, so that the turns do not begin to overlap each other during winding. This will cause the guitar to play poorly.
Rotate the peg to turn the pin half a turn. At this point, make sure that the short end of the string sticking out of the peg passes over the main string, as shown in the photo. Make one more turn and now pass the free end under the string itself (see photo). This is necessary so that it gets into the “lock” and does not move in the hole of the peg. Otherwise, she, again, will not keep the system and will “float” when tuning the guitar.
If desired, you can do the opposite, skipping the first time the free end under the string, and the second time – above it.
With one hand, pull the string in the peg area, with the other hand, rotate the peg, making sure that the turns lie flat on the peg. No need to do too many turns. For fluted bass strings, 2-3 turns are sufficient, for uncoated strings, 3-4 turns. Tighten the string until approximately, without trying to fine-tune it. Do the same operation with the rest of the strings. When installing, it is important to observe the correct position of its position relative to the peg side. Moreover, it is important not only from an aesthetic, but also from a practical point of view. Look at the photo for their correct and incorrect placement. In order to get it right, when tensioning, rotate the pegs of the sixth, fifth and fourth strings clockwise, and the pegs of the first, second and third counterclockwise.
Setting and trimming
After all the new strings are installed and taut, they need to be tuned.
It is most convenient to use a tuner for this purpose, which can also be bought at a music store. New strings will drag for a while and build poorly, this is normal. Tune the guitar to the tuner, then play it, do a few pull-ups on each string. The build will “float” a little, tune the guitar again on the tuner. Depending on the strings, this procedure will need to be repeated two or three times. Some strings take time and begin building within hours of being installed. In any case, if everything is done correctly, soon enough your guitar will be ready for use again. The ends sticking out of the pegs are best cut with side cutters or special wire cutters.
Classical guitar string changer
On a classical guitar, the strings are fixed on the tailpiece without pegs, using a special knot that you have to learn how to tie. There is nothing difficult in this, look at the photo carefully, or take a picture of this node on your guitar before you remove the old ones so that it is in front of your eyes when you install a new string.
