How does a Double Fisherman’s Knot work. What are the key steps to tying a Double Fisherman’s Knot. When should you use a Double Fisherman’s Knot in climbing and outdoor activities. Why is the Double Fisherman’s Knot considered one of the strongest rope-joining methods.
Understanding the Double Fisherman’s Knot: An Essential Climbing Technique
The Double Fisherman’s Knot, also known as a grapevine knot, is a crucial technique in the world of climbing and outdoor activities. This knot is renowned for its strength and reliability when joining two ropes of similar or different diameters. Its primary function is to create a secure connection between ropes, making it invaluable for various climbing scenarios.
Is the Double Fisherman’s Knot difficult to tie? While it may seem complex at first glance, with practice, this knot becomes relatively straightforward to master. The key lies in understanding the proper technique and taking the time to ensure each step is executed correctly.
The Anatomy of a Double Fisherman’s Knot
To fully grasp the Double Fisherman’s Knot, it’s essential to understand its components:
- Standing end: The long, inactive part of the rope
- Working end: The shorter end used to tie the knot
- Turns: The number of times the working end wraps around the standing end
- Dressing: The process of arranging the knot neatly before tightening
Why is proper knot anatomy important? A well-tied Double Fisherman’s Knot relies on the correct placement and tension of each component. Understanding these elements ensures a secure and reliable connection between ropes.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Tie a Double Fisherman’s Knot
Follow these steps to tie a Double Fisherman’s Knot:
- Lay the two rope ends parallel to each other, facing opposite directions
- Take the working end of one rope and create a bight (loop) around the standing end of the other rope
- Wrap the working end around both ropes twice, passing through the bight each time
- Repeat the process with the other rope’s working end
- Moisten the knot and slowly tighten it by pulling on all four rope ends
- Dress the knot by adjusting the coils to sit neatly side by side
Can you tie a Double Fisherman’s Knot with ropes of different diameters? Yes, this knot works well with ropes of varying thicknesses, making it versatile for different climbing situations.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Tying a Double Fisherman’s Knot
Even experienced climbers can make errors when tying this knot. Here are some common mistakes to watch out for:
- Insufficient turns: Using fewer than two turns per side weakens the knot
- Uneven tightening: Failing to tighten all four rope ends evenly can create weak points
- Poor dressing: Neglecting to arrange the coils neatly reduces knot efficiency
- Forgetting to moisten: Dry ropes may not tighten properly, leading to slippage
How can you avoid these mistakes? Practice regularly, pay close attention to each step, and always double-check your work before relying on the knot.
The Strength and Reliability of the Double Fisherman’s Knot
The Double Fisherman’s Knot is renowned for its exceptional strength and reliability. When tied correctly, it can maintain up to 65-70% of the rope’s original breaking strength. This high strength retention makes it one of the most trusted knots in climbing and mountaineering.
Are there any drawbacks to using a Double Fisherman’s Knot? While incredibly strong, this knot can be challenging to untie after bearing a heavy load. Additionally, it creates a bulky profile that may catch on obstacles or equipment.
Comparison with Other Rope-Joining Knots
How does the Double Fisherman’s Knot compare to other common rope-joining methods? Let’s examine some alternatives:
- Figure-8 Bend: Easier to tie and untie, but slightly less strong
- Overhand Bend: Simple to tie, but significantly weaker and prone to slipping
- Zeppelin Bend: Strong and easy to untie, but less commonly used in climbing
While each knot has its merits, the Double Fisherman’s Knot remains a top choice for many climbers due to its superior strength and reliability.
Applications of the Double Fisherman’s Knot in Climbing and Outdoor Activities
The versatility of the Double Fisherman’s Knot makes it useful in various climbing and outdoor scenarios:
- Joining two ropes for a full-length rappel
- Creating a cordelette for anchor building
- Forming prusik loops for self-rescue situations
- Repairing damaged ropes in emergency situations
- Constructing extension slings for trad climbing
When should you consider using a Double Fisherman’s Knot? This knot is ideal for situations where maximum strength and security are paramount, especially when joining ropes for critical applications.
Safety Considerations When Using the Double Fisherman’s Knot
While the Double Fisherman’s Knot is exceptionally strong, proper safety practices are crucial:
- Always inspect your knot before use
- Leave adequate tail length (at least 6 inches) on each side
- Regularly check the knot during use, especially after high-load situations
- Consider backup knots for extra security in critical applications
- Practice tying and untying the knot in various conditions
How often should you replace ropes used with Double Fisherman’s Knots? Regular inspection is key. Replace ropes if you notice significant wear, particularly near the knot area.
Mastering the Double Fisherman’s Knot: Tips for Practice and Improvement
Becoming proficient with the Double Fisherman’s Knot requires dedicated practice. Here are some tips to enhance your skills:
- Start with larger diameter ropes to visualize the knot structure
- Practice tying the knot with your eyes closed to build muscle memory
- Time yourself to improve speed without sacrificing accuracy
- Experiment with different rope materials to understand how they affect knot behavior
- Join a climbing club or find a mentor to receive feedback on your technique
How long does it take to master the Double Fisherman’s Knot? With consistent practice, most climbers can become proficient within a few weeks. However, continuous refinement of technique is essential for safety and efficiency.
Advanced Variations of the Double Fisherman’s Knot
Once you’ve mastered the basic Double Fisherman’s Knot, consider exploring these advanced variations:
- Triple Fisherman’s Knot: Adds an extra turn for increased security
- Asymmetrical Fisherman’s Knot: Uses different numbers of turns on each side
- Fisherman’s Knot with Overhand Backup: Incorporates an additional safety measure
Why might you choose these variations? Each offers specific advantages in certain situations, such as when using ropes of significantly different diameters or in applications requiring maximum security.
The Role of the Double Fisherman’s Knot in Modern Climbing Techniques
As climbing technology evolves, the Double Fisherman’s Knot remains a staple in many climbers’ repertoires. Its reliability and versatility continue to make it relevant in various aspects of modern climbing:
- Big wall climbing: Used for creating daisy chains and gear slings
- Alpine climbing: Essential for glacier travel and crevasse rescue setups
- Sport climbing: Useful for extending quickdraws on wandering routes
- Trad climbing: Invaluable for building complex anchor systems
How has the use of the Double Fisherman’s Knot changed over time? While the knot itself remains largely unchanged, its applications have expanded with new climbing styles and equipment innovations.
The Double Fisherman’s Knot in Emergency Situations
In addition to its regular climbing applications, the Double Fisherman’s Knot can be a lifesaver in emergency scenarios:
- Improvising a rescue harness
- Creating a makeshift stretcher
- Securing a splint for first aid
- Constructing an emergency shelter
Why is it important to know how to use this knot in emergencies? The strength and reliability of the Double Fisherman’s Knot make it a versatile tool in situations where safety is critical and resources may be limited.
Environmental Impact and Ethical Considerations of Rope Use in Climbing
As we discuss rope techniques like the Double Fisherman’s Knot, it’s important to consider the broader impact of climbing on the environment:
- Rope wear and disposal: Properly recycling old ropes to minimize waste
- Leave No Trace principles: Ensuring knot practice doesn’t damage natural features
- Sustainable gear choices: Opting for environmentally friendly rope materials
- Ethical route development: Using removable anchors when possible
How can climbers minimize their environmental impact while still practicing essential skills? Choosing designated practice areas, using eco-friendly gear, and adhering to Leave No Trace principles can help balance skill development with environmental stewardship.
The Future of Knot Technology in Climbing
As climbing continues to evolve, so too does the technology surrounding rope use and knot tying:
- Smart ropes with built-in sensors for wear detection
- Advanced synthetic materials with improved strength-to-weight ratios
- Augmented reality apps for knot-tying instruction and practice
- Machine learning algorithms for optimizing knot designs
Will these advancements replace traditional knots like the Double Fisherman’s? While technology may enhance safety and efficiency, core skills like knot tying remain fundamental to climbing. The Double Fisherman’s Knot is likely to remain relevant due to its simplicity and reliability.
Incorporating the Double Fisherman’s Knot into Your Climbing Routine
To fully benefit from the Double Fisherman’s Knot, consider these strategies for integrating it into your climbing practice:
- Include knot-tying sessions in your regular training regime
- Challenge yourself to tie the knot in various conditions (e.g., low light, with gloves)
- Teach the knot to fellow climbers to reinforce your own understanding
- Analyze how the knot performs in different climbing scenarios
- Regularly review and update your knot-tying skills
How often should you practice tying the Double Fisherman’s Knot? Aim for at least weekly practice to maintain proficiency, with more frequent sessions if you’re still learning or preparing for a challenging climb.
The Psychology of Knot Tying in Climbing
Beyond the physical technique, the psychological aspects of knot tying play a crucial role in climbing:
- Building confidence through mastery of essential skills
- Developing a meditative focus during the tying process
- Fostering trust between climbing partners through shared knowledge
- Enhancing problem-solving abilities in high-stress situations
How does mastering knots like the Double Fisherman’s impact a climber’s mental game? Proficiency in knot tying can significantly boost a climber’s confidence and decision-making abilities, leading to improved performance and safety on the rock.
How to Tie Knots: Tying Different Types of Knots with Illustrations
Spend any time in Scouts, camping outdoors, or boating? From square knots to bowline, learn how to tie knots in rope, including illustrations of the most useful knots.
These knots will often come in handy outdoors. Better to know a knot just in case you need it!
Tying Knots: Words to Know
Before you get started learning this handy skill, it helps to know some of the basic knot vocabulary.
Learn How to Crochet: Easy Scarf for Beginners
3 Thrifty Ways to Protect Plants From Cold
How to Build a Hoop House
- The bight is any part of a rope between the ends or the curved section of a rope in a knot.
- A bight becomes a loop when two parts of a rope cross.
- The place at which two parts of a rope meet in a loop is the crossing point.
- The place at which two or more loops bend is the elbow.
- The working end of a rope is the end being used to make a knot.
- The standing end (or standing part) of a rope is the end not involved in making a knot.
8 Useful Knots to Know
The knot illustrations below may seem a bit intimidating at first, but once you know the vocabulary and practice a few times, we’re sure you’ll be able to get it! Note: Illustrations by Lars Poyansky.
1. Square Knot
A square knot is a quick and simple way to join two ropes together. However, it’s for light use, not heavy use, such as tying scarves, package parcels, and so forth. The rope will not hold under heavy strain.
Watch video to see how to tie the Square Knot:
2. A Half Hitch
A hitch is used to tie a rope around an object (such as a tree) and back to itself. It’s for a quick temporary use, not long-term.
3. Two Half Hitches
This knot is also used to secure an object to trees, loops, or poles. Once tied, the knot formed by two half-hitches can move along the rope, allowing the loop to become larger or smaller. However, this hitch also isn’t for heavy loads.
Watch this video to see how to tie Two Half Hitches:
4. Taut-Line Hitch
Somewhat similar to two half hitches, the taut-line hitch is also an adjustable loop-knot hitch that can be tied around bars or poles. However, the loop formed using a taut-line hitch will not slip if put under tension. A common use might be setting up a hammock or securing a load to a car to easily adjust the binding’s tightness.
Watch this video to see how to tie a Taut-Line Hitch:
youtube.com/embed/h5rbBHp1QXo” title=”YouTube video player”>
5. Sheet Bend
Like a square knot, a sheet bend joins two ropes. However, in this case, the knot can be used for heavy loads and won’t slip under heavy tension. In addition, it’s reliable when joining two ropes of different thickness, size, or material. A sheet bend could be used to attach two lines together to make a longer line or for securing a critical load in a vehicle. There’s also a Double Sheet Bend which takes an extra coil around the standing loop for better security (especially with plastic rope)
Watch this video to see how to tie the Sheet Bend Knot:
6. Bowline
When you need a non-slip loop at the end of a line, you go with a classic bowline. This fixed knot won’t slip, regardless of the load applied. It is also easy to untie. Bowlines are secure and used when you need to pull or rescue someone, or tie a line around yourself and a tree or other object.
Watch this video to see how to tie the common Bowline:
7. Clove Hitch
Easy to tie and untie, the Clove Hitch is a good binding knot when you’re in a rush. They’re great for a temporary hold, e.g., attach a rope to a post or a linen to a mooring buoy. When you tighten this knot, you must pull both ends lengthwise or it won’t be secure.
Watch this video to see how to tie a Clove Hitch:
youtube.com/embed/Gs9WyrzNjJs” title=”YouTube video player”>
8. Timber Hitch
If you spend a lot of time outdoors, the Timber Hitch is a simple knot for hauling a log or bunches of branches as well as hauling away large objects. It’s easy to tie and remove but will come apart if tension is not maintained in the rope. Make three loops minimum to ensure a more secure hold.
Watch this video to see how to tie a Timber Hitch:
See more tips and tools to enjoy in the outdoors!
Rock Climbing Tech Tips: Joining Two Ropes
Joining Two
Ropes
This is a touchy subject. Opinions vary
among climbers as to the best knot to use when joining two ropes together.
The figure eight, overhand, & double fishersman’s are just three
methods. There’s many reasons why you’d want to join two ropes together, but
perhaps the most obvious one is to allow for a full rope length retrievable
abseil.
Rethreaded Figure Eight
There is more than one way of joining two ropes using a figure eight knot.
The method described below is purely the one I prefer. One disadvantage of
this method is that it leaves a bulky profile to the knot which could well get stuck when
you pull the abseil ropes down. If speed and stuck ropes is a concern, perhaps investigate the
double
fisherman’s
method or the overhand knot (see below). The
advantage of the figure eight with stopper knots over the double
fisherman’s is that it’s often easier to untie afterwards, plus what I’d
call a psychological advantage. Anyway, follow these steps to join two ropes with
a figure eight knot:
Step 1: Put a figure eight in the end of one rope. Step 2 & 3:
Rethread the
eight with the end of the other rope. Leave plenty of tail (probably more
than pictured), because the
knot will slip a bit as it is tightened.
Step 4: Because I’m paranoid
about the figure eight slipping I generally add a stopper knot
to each end
as well. The figure eight with stopper knots is my preferred method,
however as I say, opinions vary.
Note: Avoid
using the “Abnormal Figure Eight” (pictured left), which Bush Walkers Wilderness
Rescue’s research shows to
be dangerous. They state: “The Abnormal Figure 8 Knot
is dangerous due to roll back slippage. It is possible that this knot when
poorly packed and with short tails could completely
undo with loads as low as 50kgs”. See Also: Abseil
Knots on Needle Sports, and this accident
report on rec. climbing or
R&I, in which such a knot may have killed a climber.
Double Fisherman’s
Here’s another way to join two ropes, the double fisherman’s (pictured
below). This method results in a smaller profile knot (should give less
chance of stuck ropes) than the aforementioned figure eight method. Its
basically just two stopper knots. Follow these steps:
Step 1: Put a stopper knot in the end of
one rope. The trick with stopper knots is to form two loops, the second
behind the first, and feed the tail back through both. Step 2:
Before you tighten the knot, pass the end of the other rope through both
loops as shown.
Step 3: Now form another stopper knot, this time with the
second rope, wrapping your loops around the first line.
Steps 4 & 5: Tighten both knots and draw them snug against
each other. Leave plenty of tail (probably more than pictured), to account
for any slippage.
It’s hard to
describe in words. Be very sure you’ve got it right before abseiling down.
I strongly suggest you get someone experienced to teach you this knot, in
person, so they can verify you’ve got it right. The consequences of a
mistake, when using this knot to join two ropes for abseil, are naturally
going to be very serious indeed. Furthermore, its easy to stuff this up, especially if
its cold, dark and wet and you’re looking to bail in a hurry, so perhaps
this is not the best method to employ, though it certainly works if done
correctly. The knot can also be difficult to undo once you’ve weighted it.
Above
Right: The double fisherman’s used to join the ends of some accessory
cord to form a loop, suitable for friction knots such as the Prusik,
etc.
Overhand Knot
The
overhand knot is probably the simplest and fastest knot you can form to
join two ropes together for abseil. This can be very handy in situations
where speed is critical to safety. It’s also generally believed to be the
least likely knot to get stuck when the ropes are pulled. But how scary
does it look? Even with the recommended super long tails, the knot can take some
getting used to.
The theory with this
knot is that it will slide flat against the rock and flip over an edge
rather than jamming. (See picture right, and check out Petzl’s
page explaining the concept).
Follow
these steps to form an overhand knot to join two ropes:
Step 1: Grab an end of each rope and form the simple pass shown
above. Step 2: Pull tight, leaving a large amount of tail (ie.
about a metre) for both ends, to account
for any slippage. It shouldn’t slip too greatly if the ropes are of the same
diameter, but this is not something to skimp on. You should probably leave
more tail than the pictures above imply.
Note
comments such as “The Overhand Knot should not be used
on tape due to progressive cyclic slippage.” and “There may be
an issue with the strength of the Overhand Knot when used on older rope.”,
appear in research articles
from the Bush Walkers Wilderness Rescue.
Reader’s Feedback
From Kieran Loughran:
1. If you are doing a multi-abseil retreat using two ropes of equal diameter
then the overhand knot is more secure than an figure-8
2. Use a double-fisherman knot to join ropes of unequal diameter for
multi-abseil descents.
3. If you are using two ropes as a fixed line, first join them with a
double-fisherman knot and then tie an alpine butterfly knot that
incorporates the double-fisherman knot in the loop. That gives you three
things 1. A bomb-proof knot; 2. A built-in safety loop to clip on the knot
changeover; 3. Knots that are easy to untie (unless you had to weight the
safety loop, in which case you won’t care).
Further Reading:
Preferred Knots For Use In
Canyons – Documents actual testing of Tape, Double Fisherman’s,
Overhand for rope and tape, Rethreaded Figure 8, Abnormal Figure 8 and
Alpine Butterfly from Bush Walkers Wilderness Rescue web site.
Abseil
Knots – Further testing and warnings against the abnormal figure eight
knot on Needle Sports site.
Double Fisherman’s
– From University of New England Mountaineering Club.
Overhand knot
– From Petzl’s web site.
Figure Eight With A Loop – Also from Petzl’s web site.
Dawn’s
FAQ – For rec.climbing discussions and arguments about the best knot to
use when joining two ropes for an abseil.
How
To Deal With Stuck Ropes – From Climbing Magazines Tech Tips.
Rope And Gear
Testing – Results of pull tests on various knots joining different
ropes.
EDELRID Knot Tests
– Results of testing double fisherman’s, and EDK, etc. Unfortunately much
of the text is in German.
Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography
Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.
All text, images and video on this site are copyright. Unauthorised use is strictly prohibited.
No claim is made about the suitability of the information on this site, for any purpose, either stated or implied. By reading the information on this site, you accept full responsibility for it’s use, and any consequences of that use.
Stringed musical instruments
Category: Musical instruments
In the class of acoustic instruments, strings are the most widely used. This is due to the demand for them from all consumer groups. Their use is universal: in the concert hall (in ensembles and solo), for home music-making and in field conditions.
The leading role in the assortment of string instruments belongs to plucked instruments, which is explained by their small weight and dimensions, satisfactory sound range, expressive timbre, high level of reliability and maintainability.
Plucked instruments are distinguished by the number of strings, the sound range, the intervals between the sounds of open strings, the shape of the body, the exterior finish, the design of the main components.
Plucked instruments include: guitars, balalaikas, domras, mandolins, various national instruments (psaltery, banduras, cymbals, etc.).
The harp is also a plucked instrument, a very complex multi-stringed instrument designed for large symphony orchestras. They are released in limited quantities.
The guitar is the most popular plucked instrument. There are the following types of guitars: Spanish, Russian, Hawaiian. The Spanish (South European) six-string guitar is considered classical. By the number of strings, guitars are: twelve-, six-, seven-string. The most widespread are seven- and six-string.
Depending on the length of the working part of the string (mensur), the following types of guitars are distinguished: large (concert), normal (men’s), reduced sizes – tertz (ladies’), quart and fifth (school). Downsized guitars are named for the interval they sound higher than normal guitars. In table. the length of the scale of the above types of guitars is given.
Seven-string guitar (Russian) has a sound range from З 1 /4 to
З1/ 2 octaves from the D of the big octave to the la of the second octave. The six-string guitar has a range from E of the big octave to A-sharp of the second octave.
Hawaiian guitars have very limited use, mainly for concert activities. They have a melodious, vibrating sound. Range – 3 / 2 octaves.
The guitar consists of the following main components: body with shells, tongs, soundboard, bottom, springs, bridge, covers, neck and peg mechanics.
The body is designed to amplify the sound vibrations of the strings.
It is shaped
figure eight and consists of a flat top (1) and a slightly convex bottom deck – the bottom (2). The decks are interconnected by two right and left shells (9), the ends of which are attached from the inside to the upper (6) and lower (7) tongs. Counter-shells (8) are glued to the shells, creating the necessary area for gluing the decks. Shells, counter-shells and tongs form the body frame. To the inner surface of the decks, in their middle part, springs (17) are glued – bars of various sections, which serve to create the necessary resistance to string tension and uniform propagation of sound vibrations.
The sound hole (15) of the guitar is round, somewhat larger than other plucked instruments. Below the resonator hole (socket), a support (12) is fixedly glued, which has holes and buttons for fixing the strings (19).
The neck is the most important knot; the convenience of the game depends on how correctly its width, thickness and profile of the oval are chosen. The neck of the guitar (4) is wide, its lower thickened part is called the heel. A hole is drilled in the heel for the connecting screw. At the top of the neck is a wooden or bone nut (11) with slots for the strings. The saddle is located on the stand (12) for the strings. The distance between the nut and saddle is called the scale of the guitar. The headstock has a mechanism with pegs (21) to secure the strings.
The neck of the guitar, like all plucked instruments, is divided into parts – frets with fret plates cut into it from brass or nickel boron
wire.
The division of the neck into beats must be accurate. Fret breaking is based on the principle of changing the length of the working part of the string. The length of each fret should be such that, shortening the length of the string by this amount, the pitch would change each time by half a step, i.e., the breakdown of the frets is based on obtaining a twelve-step equal temperament system. Fret spacing accuracy is one of the most important indicators of the quality of instruments; violation of the fretboard splitting rule makes it impossible to tune the instrument and play it.
Guitars are available in regular, premium and premium quality. They differ in the materials used and the quality of the finish.
The body of the guitar is made of birch or beech plywood, the neck is made of hardwood – maple, beech, birch; fretboard – pear, ebony, beech; sills – from hornbeam, plastic, bone; stand – made of beech, maple, walnut, plastic; arrow – from beech, birch, maple; strings – steel, bass – are wrapped with a cantle. Large guitars use nylon strings.
Balalaika is an old Russian instrument with a sharp, piercing timbre, used for solo performance and playing in stringed orchestras. Balalaikas are produced in two varieties: three-stringed prima, four-stringed (with the first paired string), six-stringed (with all paired strings) and orchestral three-stringed – second, viola, bass, double bass, differing in scale length:
♦ prima – with a scale length of 435 mm;
♦ second – 475 mm scale length;
♦ alt – with a scale length of 535 mm;
♦ bass – 760mm;
♦ double bass – 1100 mm.
Balalaika prima – the most common, common, used as a solo and orchestral instrument. It has significant musical and technical capabilities.
Balalaikas second, viola, bass and double bass are used in orchestras and are called orchestral instruments. The second and viola are mainly accompanying instruments.
All types of balalaikas are in quarters.
Balalaikas from prima to double bass make up the balalaika family. Sound range from 1 3 / 4 to 2 1 / – octaves.
Balalaikas, like mandolins, domras, have many parts and units of the same name with guitars.
Balalaika consists of body, neck and head. The body of the balalaika is triangular in shape, the bottom is slightly convex, ribbed, made up of separate rivet plates. The number of rivets can be from five to ten (12, 13, 14). The rivets in the upper part of the body are attached to the upper collar (5) and connected
with a neck.
Family of orchestral balalaikas
From below, the rivets are glued to the back (10), which is, as it were, the base of the instrument. Seagulls (7) are glued along the perimeter, giving the body rigidity. A resonant deck (8) is placed on the contra-beam, consisting of several specially selected resonant spruce boards. In custom instruments, a tuned deck is used, that is, a deck that sounds in a certain tone. The deck has the shape of an isosceles triangle, the base of which is straight, and the sides are somewhat curved. A resonator hole-rosette is cut out in the soundboard, having an ornament in the form of a circle or a polyhedron made of mother-of-pearl, plastic, valuable wood. On the right side, the deck is covered with a shell (18), which protects it from damage. Small strips-springs (6) are glued to the inside of the deck, giving it elasticity and increasing the purity of the sound. Below outlet (19) a movable stand is installed on the soundboard, which transmits the vibrations of the strings to the soundboard. The stand determines the height of the strings above the fingerboard and limits the working length of the strings. The connection between the soundboard and the body is covered with a lining. On the edge of the deck in the lower part of the body is
saddle (11). The glued neck is integral With the body, it has the same function as the guitar neck,
the headstock (1) with the peg mechanism (25) is attached to the neck. The peg mechanism has worm gears for tensioning and tuning the strings (22). Along the entire neck, at a certain distance from one another, small transverse metal plates are cut, protruding above the neck and dividing it into frets (23).
Sounds are extracted by plucking with fingers, less often by striking. mediator. The mediator is a special flat oval plate, it is made of plastic or tortoise shell. Tortoiseshell picks are considered the best.
According to the exterior finish and materials used, balalaikas are produced in ordinary and high quality.
The body staves of balalaikas are made of hard hardwood – maple, birch, beech. Sometimes they are made pressed from wood fiber pulp.
The back is made of spruce, lined with birch or beech veneer; deku – from straight-grained, well-dried resonant spruce; stand on the deck – beech or maple. Corners are made from stained maple and birch veneer; dumplings – from spruce. On the shell is stained birch, maple veneer or pear.
The neck is made of hard woods – maple, beech, hornbeam, birch; fretboard – stained maple, hornbeam, pear or ebony; dots on the neck – made of plastic or mother-of-pearl; fret plates – made of brass or nickel silver; nut and nut – from hornbeam, ebony, plastic, metal and bone; strings are steel. For low-pitched instruments, the strings are wrapped with copper wire; vein and synthetic strings are also used.
Balalaikas of special and individual production differ from the usual orchestral musical instrument in terms of sound strength and timbre features, external finishing of details and selection of wood species.
Domra is a Russian folk instrument, unlike the balalaika, it has a less sharp and softer and more melodious timbre.
Domras produce three-string fourths and four-strings fifths. Domra sound range from 2/ 2
up to Z1/ 2 oct.
Depending on the size, a family of domra is made, the length of the scales of which is presented in table.
Domra is used for solo playing and in string orchestras.
Characteristics of the domra family are given in Table.
Domra, like the balalaika, consists of a body and neck, tightly connected.
Domra differs from the balalaika in its rounded “pumpkin” body. It consists of seven to nine bent rivets, the ends of which are attached to the upper and lower collars, a deck with a rosette, a shell, counter-beams, springs, and a movable stand.
The neck of the domra is longer than that of the balalaika; at the domra they put three or four strings, fixed with the help of a string holder. Domra is made from the same materials as balalaikas.
According to the quality of the finish and the materials used, domras are distinguished between ordinary and high quality.
Mandolin is a popular folk instrument: together with guitars, mandolins make up the Neapolitan orchestra; it has a bright and melodious timbre. Mandolins are produced oval, semi-oval and flat. The different construction of the body of the instruments gives them a specific timbre of sound.
The body of the flat mandolin consists of a shell, upper and lower tongs, deck, bottom, springs, pointer. The parts are made from the same materials and have the same purpose as similar guitar body parts.
The body of a semi-oval mandolin consists of a slightly convex bottom (glued from 5-7 staves or bent plywood), shells, counter-ribs, upper and lower tongs, arrow, soundboard, spring, lining, tailpiece. It is made from the same materials as the parts of the guitar.
Pear-shaped oval mandolin. Consists of rivets (from 15 to 30), cleats, counter-strings, springs, side, trim and string holder; barrels of extreme, wider staves; figured shield, soundboard, which at a distance of 3-4 mm below the stand has a break, necessary to increase the pressure of the strings on the soundboard.
The neck is usually integral with the body, but can also be detachable.
The head of the mandolin has eight pegs (four on each side). The purpose and name of the parts are the same as the parts of the guitar. When extracting sounds, a mediator is used.
Oval mandolins have a nasal tone. Semi-oval sounds more bright with a less pronounced nasal tint. Flat mandolins sound more open and harsh. In table. given, the main data of the above mandolins
The mandolin family is produced: piccolo, alto (mandola), lute, bass and double bass.
Mandolin sound range 3 1 / 3 octaves.
According to the quality of the finish and the materials used, mandolins are distinguished between ordinary and high quality.
Harp – a multi-stringed instrument (46 strings), is part of the symphony orchestra and many instrumental ensembles; in addition, it is often used as a solo and accompanying instrument.
The harp is a triangular frame with strings stretched between its two sides. The underside of the frame, to which the strings are attached, is shaped like a hollow box that serves as a resonator. The body of the harp is usually richly decorated with carvings, ornaments and gilding.
The harp is tuned in a major scale. The restructuring of the scale to other keys is carried out by switching the pedals located at the base of the harp. To guide the musician when playing, the C and F strings in all octaves are colored red and blue.
The range of the harp must be 6/ 2 octaves, ranging from D-flat contra-octave to G-sharp fourth octave.
Limited production of harps.
Banjo is the national instrument of American Negroes, which has recently gained popularity in variety ensembles of our country.
The banjo consists of an annular body-hoop, tightened on one side
skin that serves as a deck. For adjusting deck tension and tuning
use special screws. The neck and head of the instrument are conventional. steel strings,
play them as a mediator. The number of strings and their tuning may be different.
depending on the size and type of banjo. The appearance of the banjo is presented on
Spare parts and accessories
Spare parts and accessories for plucked instruments are: strings for each instrument (single or in sets), peg mechanism, string holders, stands, picks (plectrums), cases and covers.
Parts and accessories for stringed musical instruments – all patents of category
Category
Sub-categories
- G10D3/02 – resonant devices, horns and membranes
- G10D3/04 – mutes (dampers), bass beams, capotastas
- G10D3/06 – necks
- G10D3/08 – in the form of keyboards (keyboards of musical instruments G10C 3/12)
- G10D3/10 – strings
- G10D3/12 – tailpieces, e.g. bridges (fillies)
- G10D3/14 – Adjusting devices, e.g. tuning pins, rings, friction discs
- G10D3/16 – bows; bow guides; plects, etc. game equipment
- G10D3/18 – holders for the chin, shoulders and arms; safety devices as part of musical instruments (separate devices and stands G10G)
Patents in this category
Balalaika-type instrument
Ъ F ( l Class 51 s, 38 I { O I 1698e PYAT1NT I INVENT TY I: DESCRIPTION of a device for playing with the help of feet on balalaika-type instruments. To the patent of P. A. Khaustov, declared on June 10, 1929year (application certificate, No. 48999). The grant of the patent was published on September 30, 1930. The patent is valid for 15 years from September 30, 1930. The invention relates to devices equipped with…
16985
Holder for violin playing
o on “eg .c, ð Class 51 s, 10 Second” evidence of inventing a DESCRIPTION of a holder for a violin when playing it. To the author’s certificate of 3. B. Gilvlsvrg and V. Ya. Manusevich, declared on February 2, 1928 years old (application certificate M 23241). 1 On the issuance of a copyright certificate published on December 31, 1931. The prize of the invention. D.V. The present invention, which is …
24686
Sonometer for fretting musical instruments
M 32906 Class 518, P / J87OE SIDPBIYUK, HA N365FETEHHE DESCRIPTION of a sonometer for breaking the frets of musical instruments. To the copyright certificate of N. I. Yakovlev, declared on December 2, 1932 years old (inquiry about the first. No. 119591). On the issuance of a copyright certificate op.blikovaio October 31, 1933. The present invention relates to devices that facilitate the process of breaking frets into…
32906
Method for making plucked and bowed musical instruments
Class 5lc „14v! USSR 1 F! ! DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION TO THE AUTHOR’S CERTIFICATE A. L. Kozlovsky, F. G. Savitsky, N. A. Feklisov, N. P. Titov47 g, for M 370409 in L!ppststrstgo of the local industry of the RSFSR The subject of the invention is a method for manufacturing IlIH!!KQBI, and stringed musical instruments…
85898
Dashboard for Bowed Musical Instruments
Class 51s, 5 M 108197 USSR DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION TO AUTHOR’S CERTIFICATE I. S. Kuznetsov SHOWER FOR BOW MUSICAL AND INSTRUMENTS Declared February 8, 1967 for No. 666438 to the Committee for Inventions and Discoveries at the Council of Ministers of the USSR Subject of the invention Usually used in bows of musical instruments, darts used to transmit vibrations to the bottom of the instrument from …
108197
Method for excitation of continuous oscillations in resonant, for example, string pickups
t88O57 DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION FOR THE AUTHOR’S CERTIFICATE Union of Soviet Socialist Republics GSESD.,1 “”-.D; q “B,” .11ET1
188057
Humidifier for musical instruments
Union of Soviet Socialist Republics DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION K PAHEILIU Dependent on the patent N— Claimed 14. X.1968 (No. 1276335/28-12) Priority” Published 29.X.1970 B!Olletsn¹ 33 Date of publication of the description 21.!.1971 Cl. 51s, 3/01 IPC G 10d 3/00 UDC 681.8! 7.06(088.8) Co.;:.-years in case 1, tobrete and opened: “!! under the Council of Ministers of the USSR Foreigner Ralph Ho…
285671
Tool for pressing and cutting frets in the fingerboard of a musical instrument
-G, tp, and DESCRIPTION 398999 INVENTION Union of Soviet Socialist Republics TO AUTHOR’S CERTIFICATE Dependent on author. certificates Ne – Claimed on 27.VII.1971 (No. 1686239/28-122 M.Cl. G 10d 3 00 with the addition of the application ¹â€ ”State Committee of the Council of Ministers of the USSR on Inventions and Discoveries Priority” Published on 27.IX.1973. Bulletin 38 Date of…
398999
Line for making and assembling musical instrument necks
1. LINE FOR MANUFACTURING AND ASSEMBLY OF MUSICAL INSTRUMENT GROUPS, including a pulsating conveyor with a feed mechanism, devices for loading, locating and fixing workpieces, units for drilling holes and sampling grooves, a command device for controlling the sequence of turning on the drives of actuators of devices and units, an unloading mechanism processed necks and…
1169013
Stringed musical instrument
The invention relates to the production of stringed musical instruments, violins in particular, and improves the sound quality of the instrument by means of polystyrene layer 3 deposited on the inner plane of the lower deck 2. 1 ill. (L sd 4 SOYUZ SOVIET SOCIALIST REPUBLICS ÄÄSUÄÄ 1300549A1 e1) 4 G 10 0 3 00 DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION TO A BTOPCiCOMY STATE CERTIFICATE …
1300549
Fret press tool
EFFECT: invention allows to increase labor productivity. The device consists of a movable carriage 2 with a stop, a node 10 for cutting grooves in the fingerboard, a mechanism 3 for feeding a fret wire, a node 4 for pressing and trimming the fret plates, and a mechanism for switching the movement of the carriage 2. 3 ill. 10 s (L co about SP sj O) 00 FIG. 1 UNION OF SOVIET SOCIALIST REPUBLICS (51) 4 C 10 D 3 00 DESCRIPTION …
1305768
Tool for pressing and cutting frets in the fingerboard of a musical instrument
The invention relates to a device for pressing and trimming frets into the fingerboard of a musical instrument and makes it possible to increase labor productivity by means of a bracket 14 installed on a press carriage 9 with vertical guides, a rack with rigidly fixed pushers mounted on a frame 1 of a plate 18 with placed on it with the possibility of rotation in a vertical flat. ..
1307471
Capo by A.S. Kizyaev
The invention relates to stringed musical instruments and makes it possible to increase ease of use by means that the arcuate clamping element is made of two separate cantilever parts 5 and 6, the free ends of which are placed overlapping one relative to the other, and the spring 4 is located between the arcuate base 7 and the clamping elements. 2 ill….
1547026
Tar
The invention relates to a musical instrument – a tare and makes it possible to expand the performing possibilities by means of the presence of seven reed frets on the heart of a small bowl. 3 ill. UNION OF SOVIET SOCIALIST REPUBLICS STATE COMMITTEE FOR INVENTIONS AND DISCOVERIES UNDER SCST USSR DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Ir – 1.- s-1 — —,; — — – — -. TO AUTHOR’S CERTIFICATE…
1751809
Guitar Jig
The invention relates to a stringer for a guitar. The essence of the invention lies in the fact that the middle raised part of the plate, located under the threshold, is made with the possibility of forming beams, one ends of which are fastened to the plate, and the opposite ends are suspended to form a cantilever. 3 s. p. f-ly, 6 ill. The invention relates to the design and production of mainly string…
2061260
Method for shifting the phases of vibrations of decks of bowed musical instruments
The method of shifting the phases of vibrations of the decks of bowed musical instruments to improve the timbre of the sound consists in the fact that the phases are shifted relative to each other up to 180o by crimping the material of the upper soundboard in the areas of installation of the homie and stand, on the left of the installation of the spring along the length of the ff to the density of the material of the lower soundboard while maintaining the thickness soundboards on these sections of the former. 1 ill. Bow and…
2139576
String Instrument Tremolo Tuning Lock
SUBSTANCE: invention relates to a lock of the tremolo mechanism of a stringed musical instrument. The latch contains on the body of the instrument with the possibility of changing the tension of the strings for performing tremolo, a lever, one of the arms of which is installed with the possibility of interacting with one end of the axis spring-loaded in the longitudinal direction. The axle spring is installed with the possibility of changing the tension. Retainer…
2361286
Method for maintaining the tuning of a stringed musical instrument
The invention relates to a method for maintaining the tuning of a stringed musical instrument. The method consists in that the stringed musical instrument contains a tremolo mechanism, a rear nut, a front nut, pegs with the possibility of adjusting the height of the pegs axis, on which the string is wound. At the same time, the section of the string located between the point of contact of the string of the nut and the point of the beginning of the contact…
2367032
String Instrument Tremolo Stabilizer
The tuning stabilizer of the tremolo mechanism of a stringed musical instrument contains a lever mounted on the body of the instrument, with the possibility of changing the tension of the strings to perform tremolo. One of the arms of the lever is installed with the possibility of interaction with one end of the axis spring-loaded in the longitudinal direction, the spring of which is installed with the possibility of changing the tension. At the same time, the device…
2407067
Electric Guitar String Fixing and Tuning System
The system for fixing and tuning electric guitar strings consists of a clamp for the free ends of the strings, which is installed on the end of the neck in such a way that the string passing through the clamp is bent at an angle of 90 ° or more at the end of the neck at right angles to the plane of the neck, and a machine for tensioning and string tuning, which is installed on the body of the instrument behind the saddle (bridge). Masha…
2408086
Laminate for soundboards of musical instruments
The invention relates to laminates used for the manufacture of resonant soundboards of musical instruments, in particular the soundboards of bowed, plucked and keyboard instruments with high acoustic characteristics. Laminate material for soundboards of musical instruments contains interconnected soft and hard layers located perpendicular to a predetermined base plane.
2504024
Method of mounting the solenoid over the string of a stringed instrument
The invention relates to a method for installing a solenoid above the string of a stringed instrument having a common board above the neck of the said stringed instrument with through holes for each said solenoid, containing a winding inside which a plunger is placed with the possibility of axial movement, tapering towards its output pin to limit the working movement of the said plunger limited…
2564585
Nut of a stringed musical instrument with calibrated holes for strings
The invention relates to a nut for stringed musical instruments. The nut of a stringed musical instrument has calibrated holes for each string, strings of a certain diameter are used. This nut is especially suitable for electric guitars that have a straight string arrangement from the back nut to the point of contact with the axis of the tuning machine. The holes prevent the string from falling out…
2602959
Standalone frame for stringed musical instrument
The invention relates to musical instruments, namely to parts for musical instruments, in particular to fasteners for attaching external devices. The frame for autonomous operation of a stringed musical instrument contains two walls, a rail, a system of brackets and a device for fastening a sound-extracting mechanism. The rail is made with the possibility of fastening to two walls, the crown system.