How to string a lax stick. How to String a Lacrosse Goalie Head: Expert Guide with Step-by-Step Instructions

What materials do you need to string a lacrosse goalie head. How do you properly string the top lace of a goalie stick. What are the key steps in stringing the sidewalls of a lacrosse goalie head. How can you create an optimal pocket for a goalie stick.

Essential Materials for Stringing a Lacrosse Goalie Head

Before diving into the stringing process, it’s crucial to gather all the necessary materials. This preparation ensures a smooth and efficient stringing experience.

• Goalie Head (e.g., STX Eclipse or other preferred brand)
• Goalie Mesh (12 Diamond, 10 Diamond, or 20 Diamond)
• Sidewall Strings
• Shooting Strings
• Scissors or Knife
• Lighter

Why is the choice of mesh important? The number of diamonds in the mesh affects the pocket’s feel and performance. 12 Diamond mesh offers a balance between hold and release, while 10 Diamond provides more hold, and 20 Diamond offers quicker release.

Preparing the Mesh: Key Steps for Optimal Performance

Proper preparation of the mesh is crucial for creating a high-performing goalie stick. Follow these steps to ensure your mesh is ready for stringing:

1. Spread open the mesh holes from top to bottom using your hands.
2. Ensure the mesh is loose throughout its entirety.
3. Fold the top two rows of diamonds together.
4. Position the mesh against the stick with the rough side facing where the ball will make contact.

Why is spreading the mesh important? This process helps to loosen the fibers, allowing for better pocket formation and increased flexibility during play.

Mastering the Top String: Techniques for a Secure Fit

The top string is crucial for maintaining the shape and integrity of your goalie head. Here’s how to string it effectively:

1. Fold the top lace in half and align the ends.
2. Thread both ends through the center hole of the mesh.
3. Pass the ends through the top center hole of the goalie head from the front.
4. Pull the ends back through the loop created by the top string.
5. Center the mesh and tighten to form the first knot.
6. Continue stringing outward from the center, following a specific pattern for each hole.

What makes this method effective? By starting from the center and working outwards, you ensure even tension across the entire top string, preventing warping and maintaining consistent performance.

Sidewall Stringing: Creating the Perfect Pocket

The sidewall stringing plays a crucial role in shaping the pocket and affecting the stick’s overall performance. Follow these steps for optimal results:

1. Begin by double knotting your sidewall string through the first goalie sidewall hole.
2. Thread the string through the mesh hole and then the next lowest goalie head hole.
3. Continue this pattern down the sidewall, adjusting tension as needed.
4. For the first three sidewall holes, pull extremely tight.
5. For remaining holes, maintain tension but not as extreme.

How does varying tension affect pocket formation? Tighter stringing at the top creates a defined channel, while slightly looser stringing towards the bottom allows for a deeper pocket, enhancing ball control and reducing rebounds.

Securing the Corners: Enhancing Accuracy and Control

Properly securing the corners of your goalie head is crucial for accurate outlet passes and overall stick performance. Here’s how to do it:

1. Thread the top string through the end mesh hole and the corresponding goalie head hole.
2. Loop the corner piece of mesh over the stick head.
3. Bring the string down through the goalie mesh hole.
4. Pull it back through the next lowest hole on the goalie head, ensuring it’s very tight.
5. Tie a double knot to secure the string.

Why is corner security so important? Properly secured corners prevent the ball from hitting the plastic during throws, which can cause erratic outlet passes and reduce a goalie’s accuracy.

Fine-Tuning Your Goalie Stick: Advanced Techniques

Once you’ve completed the basic stringing process, there are several advanced techniques you can employ to further enhance your goalie stick’s performance:

Adjusting Pocket Depth

The depth of your pocket can significantly impact your ability to make saves and control rebounds. Experiment with different sidewall patterns to find the optimal pocket depth for your playing style.

Customizing Channel Width

The channel in your stick affects how the ball sits and releases. By adjusting the tension of your sidewall strings, you can create a wider or narrower channel to suit your preferences.

Implementing Shooting Strings

While not always necessary for goalie sticks, some players find that adding shooting strings can help with ball control and outlet passes. Experiment with different configurations to find what works best for you.

How do these advanced techniques impact performance? Fine-tuning these aspects of your stick can lead to improved ball control, more consistent saves, and more accurate outlet passes.

Maintaining Your Strung Goalie Head: Tips for Longevity

Proper maintenance of your strung goalie head is essential for consistent performance and longevity. Consider the following tips:

• Regularly check and tighten loose strings
• Clean your mesh after playing in wet or muddy conditions
• Store your stick in a cool, dry place to prevent warping
• Restring your stick periodically to maintain optimal performance

How often should you restring your goalie head? While it varies based on usage and care, many goalies find that restringing every 3-6 months helps maintain peak performance.

Troubleshooting Common Stringing Issues

Even experienced players may encounter issues when stringing their goalie heads. Here are some common problems and solutions:

Uneven Pocket

If your pocket is uneven, it may be due to inconsistent tension in your sidewall strings. Try restringing with more consistent tension throughout.

Excessive Whip

Too much whip can affect your ability to make accurate outlet passes. Adjust your pocket depth or experiment with different shooting string configurations to reduce whip.

Bag

A pocket that’s too deep (often called a “bag”) can make it difficult to release the ball quickly. Tighten your sidewall strings, particularly in the lower portion of the head, to reduce bagging.

How can you test your stick’s performance after stringing? Take shots from various angles and distances, and practice outlet passes to ensure your newly strung stick meets your performance needs.

Stringing a lacrosse goalie head is a skill that takes time and practice to master. By following this guide and experimenting with different techniques, you’ll be able to create a custom stick that enhances your performance on the field. Remember, the perfect stringing job is one that feels comfortable to you and allows you to play at your best.

How To String A Lacrosse Goalie Head: An Illustrated Guide

It’s very important for all goalies to learn how to string a lacrosse goalie head.

You don’t want to be dependent on another player or coach to string a stick for you.

Take the responsibility to learn how to string your own stick and you’ll eventually be able to create a great goalie stick that gives up few rebounds and makes accurate outlet passes.

When it comes to stringing a lacrosse goalie head, there’s more than 1 way to skin that cat. Lots of string doctors have their own method and each serves its purpose.

Need this guide to go? Download a free PDF version of How To String A Lacrosse Goalie Head: An Illustrated Guide by clicking here. You’ll also get a ton of other free stuff for joining the email list. No spam, ever.

Below is my illustrated guide on how I like to string my goalie sticks.

Step 1: Gather Your Materials

Before starting the stringing process, you assemble all the materials you’ll need.

Here is the checklist –

• Goalie Head – I prefer the STX Eclipse but there are several great goalie heads.
• Goalie Mesh – I prefer 12 Diamond Goalie mesh. Other options are 10 Diamond Goalie Mesh, or 20 Diamond Goalie Mesh. Each comes with its own set of pros and cons so select what works best for you.
• Sidewall Strings
• Shooting Strings
• Scissors or a Knife
• Lighter

I like to precut the sidewall and shooting strings before starting so I’m not working with a large spool. I think this makes the process go a lot smoother.

Step 2: Spread Open the Mesh Holes

Using your hands grab either side of the mesh and spread open the mesh holes. Do this for the entire piece of mesh, from the top to the bottom.

Mesh should be nice and loose, all the way down.

Step 3: Fold the top 2 rows of diamonds together

Fold the top 2 rows of diamonds together as noted in the picture below.

Place mesh against the stick so the rough side of mesh will be touching the ball. Smooth side of the mesh goes on the back of stick.

Step 4: String Top Lace Starting with Center

1. Fold top lace in half and put two ends together
2. Take the two ends and placed them through the center hole of the mesh
3. Go through the top center hole of the goalie head with both pieces entering from the front side of the head.
4. Then take both ends and pull them back through the loop of the top string. 
5. Make sure the mesh and knot are nice and centered and then pull this part tight to form your first knot 

Step 5: String Top Lace Starting working your way out from the center

Next we’ll continue to string the top working our way out from the center to one side. Here’s the steps to string each hole.

1. Take the lace and go through the back of the next hole on stick 
2. Pull that lace through the mesh hole 
3. Pull the knot tight 
4. Go through the same mesh hole and then back through same goalie head hole entering on front side.
5. Pull string through the loop created and pull it tight 
6. As you work your way out, continue to pull the knots tight 

Repeat this process until all holes along the top of the goalie head are strung. Remember: work your way out from the center.

Step 6: Secure top corners

Now we should have all of the top goalie head holes string like so: 

Our next step is secure the corners which is very important so that the ball doesn’t hit the plastic when you throw. This causes erratic outlet passes.

1. Place top string through end mesh hole and then through the goalie head hole as seen in the picture below. Pull it tight.  
2. Take the corner piece of mesh, loop it over the stick head, come down with the string and go through the goalie mesh hole. 
3. Pull it back through the next lowest hole on the goalie head making sure its very tight.  
4. Now tie a tight know, and then another knot (double knot) to ensure the string won’t pull through the hole. 
5. Repeat on the other side

Step 7: String the Sidewalls

With the top of the stick now complete, we’ll start to string our sidewalls.

1. Start by double knotting your sidewall string and pulling tight through first goalie sidewall hole. Knot is on the outside of the head.
2. Next we’ll put the end of the of the sidewall string through the mesh hole and pull sidewall string through the next lowest goalie head hole.  
3. Then take end of string and place through next lowest goalie mesh hole 
4. While stretching the mesh downwards, we’ll pull our new know tight against the sidewall 
5. Continue this process all the way down the stick. For the 1st 3 sidewall holes pull it extremely tight, then for the remaining sidewall holes you can pull tight but not extreme. This will help create a nice pocket.
6. Once we’re out of sidewall holes, place the string through the next lowest goalie mesh hole and then again through the next lowest goalie mesh hole below that one 
7. Place string through top hole of next of goalie head as seen in the pic below 
8. Pull it tight and then tie it off with a double knot.
9. Repeat the same process on the other side.

This is what our sidewalls should look like: 

Step 8: Form the channel with a ball

Once sidewall sides are complete, we’ll take a lacrosse ball and start forming the pocket. Bang the ball into the pocket to loosen up the mesh.

Do this up and down the pocket on the front side and then flip the stick over and repeat on the back side.

Step 9: String Bottom of the Stick

Here are the steps to string the bottom of the mesh to the stick. We’ll use a shooting string to accomplish this step.

1. With the shooting string we’ll go through bottom hole below were our shooting strings are and then up through the throat. Tie off the end with a double knot.  
2. In the goalie mesh, enter the shooting string into hole you used last on the sidewall string.
3. Then do a traditional weave all the way across 
4. Put shooting string back through throat hole and then bottom hole, essentially reserving item 1 of this step. Wait to tie off this string until we add the twist knot described below.

This is what it should look like: 

Next we’ll add a custom twist knot. We’ll use a sidewall string for this step.

1. Enter shooting string into very bottom hole, tie it off with a double know and pull it tight 
2. Now enter sidewall string into the same hole that the shooting string is in. It’s going to be a tight fit and you’ll probably need to use a knife to get the sidewall string all the way through 
3. Find center 3 diamonds and bring sidewall string through. Start a weave only on the center 3 holes.   
4. Next, loop end of string around to do a little weave. You can do this twice if you want, I’ll stick with just one.  
5. Next we’ll go back through the other hole where our shooting string is and out the very bottom hole, essentially reserving item 1.
6. Before tying off the strings, punch the pocket out to get a nice deep pocket.
7. Now tie off the shooting string and then tie off the sidewall string, both with double knots

Here’s our end result at this point: 

Step 10: Add Shooting Strings

There’s lots of options for the design of shooting strings. Essentially these strings function to keep the top of the mesh stiff to aid in throwing.

The design I like to use consists to a top sidewall string and two traditional shooting strings below: 

1. First put string through sidewall and then weave the string through the mesh 
2. Find same sidewall hole on opposite side of the stick and put string through.
3. Weave string back across and pull nice and tight 
4. Tie off the string with a double knot.
5. Repeat for each shooting string you want in your stick. As you go lower the laces should be less tight. The tightest string is on the top otherwise your stick will have some nasty whip and won’t throw right.

Step 11: Snip and Burn

Our stick stringing is just about complete. The final step is cut all extra string from our sidewall and shooting strings. For each end that you cut use a lighter to burn the edges so that the strings never fray.

Here is our final product:

If you prefer to learn how to string your lacrosse goalie head by watching a video, there are several good ones from YouTube that demonstrate the stick stringing technique I’ve described above.

Stringing Top

Stringing Sidewalls

Stringing Shooting Strings

Need this guide to go? Download a free PDF version of How To String A Lacrosse Goalie Head: An Illustrated Guide by clicking here. You’ll also get a ton of other free stuff for joining the email list. No spam, ever.

Learning how to string a lacrosse goalie head is something I recommend every goalie take time to learn.

Keep in mind there are many different ways to string a goalie stick. If you’re interested in a more advanced technique, check out the quad sidewall.

However you can accomplish the basic stringing of a goalie head by following the step-by-step illustrated guide I’ve put together in this post.

Now you’ll just have work on your save technique cause there’s no blaming the stick.

Until next time! Coach Damon | LaxGoalieRat.com

Any part of this tutorial confusing or doesn’t make sense? Ask me questions in the comments.  

Inside the Lax Goalie Rat Academy there are 4 different tutorial videos on how to string up different heads with different meshes and different patterns. 

Learn How to String a Lacrosse Head Correctly

Learning correct lacrosse stringing is an integral part of your development as a player. It allows you to customize your stick’s performance to suit how you play and your specific position.

There are several different types of lacrosse stringing, but in this guide, we’ll focus on how to string a traditional lacrosse head with a mid pocket. Once you’re confident with that, you can move on to more specific styles of stringing and restring lacrosse sticks as needed.

How long does it take to string a lacrosse head?

It varies by person, depending on how long you’ve been doing it, and how good you are at the precise movements and adjustments needed.

Assuming you’re a beginner who hasn’t got a clue about how to string a lacrosse head we’d estimate that you’ll be able to finish the task in 30- 45 minutes once you’ve followed all the steps in this guide. And you’ll undoubtedly improve on that with practice.

Be patient. While you’re learning, getting the technique correct is much more important than finishing the job quickly.

Materials and equipment

Before getting started with this guide, you’ll need to make sure you have all of the following:

1. Lacrosse stick with an unstrung head (obviously!)

2. Lacrosse strings (there are a few types of lacrosse string you will need)

• One lacrosse top string, around 36 inches long
• Two lacrosse sidewall strings, each about 30 inches long
• One lacrosse bottom string, approximately 8 inches long
• Three shooting strings

3. One piece of 10 diamond mesh

4. Scissors, to cut off the excess string

5. A lighter, to melt the ends of cut strings and prevent them from fraying

6. Needle nose pliers, to tighten the strings correctly

Preparing the mesh

Before you get to stringing your lacrosse head, you need to prepare the mesh. First, ensure you have your mesh oriented correctly. The top edge is the one with nine diamonds, and the bottom edge will have ten. (You may have heard of a 10 diamond top string, but 9 is more common, so we’ll go with that in this guide.)

You should also make sure that the rougher side of the mesh faces inwards; this assists with gripping the ball and adding power to your shots.

Now, stretch out the mesh to its full extent. You must do this before stringing; otherwise, the mesh will stretch further after you string it, and your lacing may sag in certain areas. If you’re using a hard mesh, you might find that running it under hot water while you’re stretching it out makes it easier to manipulate.

Once you’ve stretched the mesh, fold over the top row of nine diamonds so that the holes match up precisely with the second row of diamonds beneath. Now you’re ready to start stringing.

General tips

To properly string lacrosse heads, there are a few general tips you should keep in mind:

• Your strings should always be as tight as possible. Use your pliers to ensure maximum tightness at each stage. You don’t want your lacing to come loose or undone during a game.
• Symmetry is important. The diamonds, lacrosse strings, and knots should all line up as accurately as possible to ensure your stick doesn’t have any bias towards the left or right. You want your passes and shots to fly straight.
• Working out the best pocket placement for your playing style is essential. In this guide, we’re going to show you a mid pocket style, but as you gain experience in how to string a lacrosse head, you’ll be able to adapt this. We’ve given a few tips on adjustments at the end of the guide.

How to string a lacrosse head top string

We’ll start at the top. Double-check that your mesh is the right way round – rough side towards the inside of the pocket. Now take your top string and follow these steps:

• Work from left to right, tying knots to keep each of the double rows of diamonds tightly connected to the top row of holes in the head.
• Maintain an even tension as you work. You don’t want one side to be tighter than the other, as this will cause instability and inaccuracy in your shots and passes.
• Once you’ve completed the full row of knots, check that your mesh is aligned symmetrically with the head and that there’s no stretching to either side.

How to string a lacrosse head sidewall

When you’re happy that your top string is secure, it’s time to move on to the sidewalls. We recommend that you start at the top of the lacrosse stick head and work your way down. Rather than stringing one sidewall at a time, it’s best to do both at once, tying the first knot on one side, then switching to the other, and continuing down the head.

Stringing both sides at once ensures that your stringing remains consistent, which is essential for the creation of the pocket. It will also allow you to match the tension on both sides and check it as you go, rather than having to completely restring one side if you find it doesn’t match at the end of the process.

As you work your way down, you should see the shape of the pocket start to form.

How to string a mid pocket

To achieve the perfect mid pocket, you need to pay attention while stringing your sidewalls and your bottom string. Different tensions or spacing in each of these areas will create a separate pocket.

At the top of the head, you need to ensure you pull the first couple of rows of diamonds tight, so the mesh is flatter at this point. If the first rows are tight, a well-shaped channel allows the ball to be released smoothly from your stick. Further down, you want the diamonds to be more bunched up, which loosens the mesh and forms a pocket midway down the head.

To break in your pocket, wet your mesh with warm water, and use either your fist or a lacrosse ball to form the pocket, just as the ball would typically sit. Some players even secure the ball in the pocket with a stick jammed through the mesh below the sidewalls. You can leave it for a few hours, or overnight, to shape the pocket.

You also need to check that your pocket depth is legal. Put a lacrosse ball into the pocket, and as long as there’s no space above the ball when viewed side-on, you’re good to go. If not, you’ll need to make adjustments. Otherwise, you’re risking a penalty. If your pocket is too deep, you’ll be able to fix this when you move on to the bottom string.

How to string a lacrosse head bottom string

The bottom string has a significant effect on the head’s overall performance, and small adjustments can make quite a difference in how the ball is caught and released.

In terms of technique, stringing the bottom string is similar to the top string. You’ll weave between the bottom row of diamonds and the holes at the edge of the head. However, unlike the top string, where you want to keep maximum tension, you can vary the tension a little to get the desired pocket shape and size.

We’ll discuss the effects of different bottom string tensions further under “Adjustments” below.

How to string the shooting strings

Unlike the other types of string, the shooting strings weave together through the mesh, and the most popular method is a straight weave. Different types include rolled, nylon laced, or even no shooting strings at all.

Depending on your pocket and channel’s exact shape, you’ll want to experiment with the placement of your shooting strings to see which gives the best ball performance. As a general rule, though, you should have the closest string to the ball looser than the other strings, which should tighten as you work up towards the scoop.

It’s important to remember that NCAA and NFHS rules prohibit any shooting strings which are more than four inches from the top of the scoop. Make sure your shooting strings are within this margin, or you’ll risk an equipment penalty.

Trimming the strings

Once you’ve finished stringing your lacrosse head, you’ll invariably find that you have a lot of extra lengths of string. To tidy these up, use your scissors to cut off the remaining length, leaving an inch or two if you need to make slight adjustments later. Carefully burn the cut ends with your lighter to ensure that the ends don’t fray.

Testing

With your stick laced and ready to go, you’ll want to put in some time testing it out, so you can ensure the pocket position and depth, and the placement of the shooting strings, works for you. Use a lacrosse rebounder like this if you’re training alone, or pair up with another player to practice shots, passes, and catches. Take note of anything that doesn’t feel quite right, so you know what adjustments to make later.

Adjustments

Once you’re confident you know how to string a lacrosse head in a basic style and test it out, you may want to make a few adjustments to suit your unique playing style better.

• If you need to increase the amount of whip you’re getting, loosen up the bottom string. The opposite applies if you need to adjust for less whip.
• If you have a tight channel, you may find the ball whips down too much. You can usually fix this by loosening or even removing one or more of the shooting strings.
• Replacing cotton shooting strings with nylon can help add more whip.

Hopefully, our stringing lacrosse head guide has helped you better understand not just how to string a lacrosse head, but how the different elements affect your overall stick performance, and ultimately your game. Of course, as we’ve said, every player’s style is unique, so there’s no substitute for trying out some of these tips for yourself to discover what setup works best for you.

Stick Maintenance – LAXPlaybook

You’ll be on cloud nine after you invest some serious cash on a stunning lacrosse stick and string it up so it throws smoothly. However, you don’t want one rainy day or unfortunate broken string to ruin your hard work and render your investment meaningless. Lacrosse players need to have their sticks in perfect working condition at all times if they want to play flawless ball.

There are some simple precautions you can take that will keep your stick in ideal playing condition. Keeping your pocket, head, and shaft in good shape is very important, but there are specific maintenance tips that even the best lacrosse players may not know. This guide explores them all.

Protect your Pocket

The most important part of stick maintenance is keeping your pocket intact and in ideal playing condition. Competing in inclement weather or just general negligence can alter the way your pocket is shaped and, to a greater extent, how it throws and catches. Spend a few minutes every day making sure your pocket is in pristine shape, and look for warning signs of pocket failure.

When a Pocket is Failing

Your pocket is non-functional when the strings that hold the mesh in place on your head become frayed and torn. This sign of wear and tear is one of the most common causes of pocket failure. Even a minor irregularity, such as a loose top string or shooting string, can severely affect the way your stick performs.

Your top string and your sidewall strings need to be strung as tightly as possible. Doing so locks the mesh in place in the head, and allows the mesh to break in and form in the right spots. If you notice a loose sidewall string, undo the knot at the bottom and carefully tighten the string all the way up the sidewall. You shouldn’t be able to fit your finger between the string and the plastic of the head at any spot on the string.

Hot Tip: Bring the Backup

Face-off specialists should always carry a backup head with them to the game. Since their sticks generally take a bit more abuse than other players, having a backup head around can really pay dividends in a tight spot. Treat your backup with the same care and attention you give to your primary head.

If you notice that either a top string or a sidewall string is fraying or close to breaking, replace it immediately. If you don’t know how to string it yourself, have a teammate fix it over the weekend when you don’t have any games to play. Breaking a string during a game is a player’s worst nightmare. No one likes to play with a backup stick that they aren’t accustomed to. Nip those problems in the bud ASAP, and check your strings constantly.

The tightness of your shooting strings can have a major impact on the performance of your stick. The lower the string is in the pocket, the looser it should be. Conversely, the highest string in the pocket should be the tightest. Check your strings after every practice or game to make sure they are at the adequate tightness.

The Weather Report

Intense rain, blazing heat, or extremely dry conditions can quickly alter the mesh in your pocket. Wet conditions cause your pocket to “bag out” (significantly deepen and loosen) to the point of being illegal. Deepening the pocket causes your stick to throw lower and slows down your release. In addition, the pocket can become illegal as the depth increases. Most mesh is designed to stretch to nearly the maximum depth allowed by the United States Lacrosse rule book.

If your pocket is bagged out after a practice or game, take it home, ball up some newspaper, and stick the wad of paper in the pocket. The newspaper should absorb most of the excess moisture in the mesh, and leave you with a normal pocket the next day.

Very hot and dry conditions tend to make your mesh tighten up, causing your pocket to be much more shallow than normal. While this can make your release a bit quicker, it significantly hurts your ability to hold and protect the ball. Keep your pocket as close to the maximum-allowed depth as possible. If you’ve been playing in hot and dry conditions, put some warm water on your mesh and then beat the pocket in a little to give it the depth that the heat took away.

Heal your Head

The shape and structural integrity of your head plays a big part in the performance of your stick. Players that take a lot of draws or throw hard checks will find that their heads can become bent to the point that they’re no longer useful or effective. While some warping or bending is unavoidable, there are some adjustments you can make to minimize the damage to the shape and structure of your head.

Face-off specialists have the highest risk for damaging their head. These players put a lot of pressure and weight on the head, which can make even the strongest heads bend out of shape. While there isn’t much that you can do during a game to alter the shape of the head, precautions can be taken after the game to ensure that damage will be minimized.

In order to maintain your head’s normal shape, wedge a solid object — like a softball — into the head when you aren’t using it. After practice, pack the softball into the throat area of the head. Don’t go too far down the head or you risk causing permanent damage to the structure of the head.

As simple as it may sound, constantly bending the head back in the opposite direction can alleviate some of the problems caused by a warped head.

Secure the Shaft

In relation to other parts of the stick, the shaft needs the least amount of maintenance. This doesn’t mean you should ignore the shaft for the entire season, though! Shafts are prone to breaking, and they can be hard to grip in certain conditions.

The paint and finish on the shaft can make the stick slippery and difficult to grip in wet conditions or pressure situations. Taping the shaft of your stick solves this problem, as it gives you a solid and reliable grip on the stick.

The bottom six inches or so around the butt end of the stick should be taped thoroughly. This area almost always has a gloved hand on it, and you grip this part of the shaft as you dodge, cradle, and shoot. Since tape can wear down rather quickly, don’t be shy about re-taping the shaft once it loses its grip.

Additionally, tape the part of the shaft that you grip with your top hand on a shot attempt. Simply wrap a couple of layers over each other, instead of the diagonal-wrapping technique that you would use on the bottom of the shaft for your grip hand.

Better Safe than Sorry

Never neglect your stick in its times of need! Strings can break quicker than you can rip a high to low shot, and a head can bend out of shape suddenly after a hard check. Spoiling your baby never hurts – treat your stick like it’s your child and it will return the favor. Take good care of your stick and always make sure that everything is in tip-top shape. A sudden stick failure can ruin a game or practice, and no one wants to watch from the sidelines because of a stick malfunction.

Why You Don’t Need a Stick Doctor to String Your Sticks

Why You Don’t Need a Stick Doctor to String Your Sticks

Tue Aug 29 2017 | Cody Hornung | Fuel

This article appears as part of the “Myth Busters”​ package in the September/October edition of US Lacrosse Magazine. Don’t get the mag? Join US Lacrosse today to start your subscription.

People marvel at the stringing they see on Instagram or on YouTube. Coming from the lax nerd who created the Stringers Union, there are some awesome setups that have been posted on the internet, and most of us are capable of replicating them.

For some people, stringing might seem too daunting or time-consuming. And it just so happens that little Greyson from down the street will string up a head for you for $15 (strings included) because your kid plays varsity at the local prep school.

But for the parents of players living outside of the hotbeds, the stringing geek down the street is difficult to come by, as is a local lacrosse store that will string up your kid’s stick. However, you don’t exactly have to be employed by NASA or be a washed up Eagle Scout to figure out how to string a lacrosse stick. Sure, some patterns are more difficult than others, but for the most part stringing is tying a knot and wrapping it around some plastic.

Before jumping in head first, I’m going to give you a little bit of criteria for the dynamics of a well-strung head for a young player:

• Mesh is stretched tight across the top of the head.

• Pocket begins to form at top shooter.

• Deepest part of the pocket is in the middle of the head and is less than a ball deep.

• Top shooter is tightest, and each gets looser as you go down.

If one of these things isn’t true, you have some work ahead of you. But there’s good news for you: 1. You’re not alone in this; and 2. The internet.

You could do what I did, which in a roundabout way was to stare at grainy photos of players’ sticks to try to replicate their whack string jobs. Or, you could go online to many stick stringing tutorials to find out how to string the stick your young buck is playing with.

On the STX YouTube channel, you will find videos of some of my colleagues and I teaching people how to string, along with a map of what the heck we are doing, or you could watch other fantastic YouTube videos and learn techniques even I haven’t tried. It’s like you’re putting together a Nordli shelf from Ikea with a manual and bonus video instruction, but none of which are in Swedish.

My point is that stringing isn’t “daunting,” but another D word: doable. So, before you spend $40 on another string job, go order a spool of sidewall and shooters, and learn to string a stick. I will leave you with one tip that will save you a trip to the junk drawer for some bandages: Lick your fingers before touching hot strings.

Good luck, and hope to see you in January at LaxCon in Baltimore.

Cody Hornung is the category brand manager for men’s lacrosse at STX.

Stringing Your Lacrosse Stick Easily – LaxWeekly

In my opinion, every player should know how to string their own stick. Being dependent on someone else to string your stick is dangerous, because if it breaks, who will be there to fix it? For 7 years, I got other people to string my stick, until finally I was tired of having to call my stringers to come fix it.

Ever since I learned how to string my stick, I have never gone back to using another stringer. There’s so much freedom in knowing that if you stick breaks, you don’t need anyone else to fix it.

Stringing can sound extremely complicated these days, with so many different stringers throwing out terms that sound scientific. In reality, the basics of stringing are easy to learn, and the best way to get better is with practice.

It is very difficult to explain stringing in words, so instead, I will point you to other resources that have great tutorials.

The Different Parts of Stringing

When stringing a lacrosse head, there are a few different sections: the topstring, the sidewalls, the bottom string, and the shooting strings. Here’s a diagram to show you what I am talking about.

Image: Primo Lacrosse

Topstring Video Tutorial

With almost every stringing job, you start with the top string. Almost every head has the same topstring. Topstrings are very easy to string once you get the hang of it. This is the video I use for stringing them:

Sidewall Stringing

This is where things get more complicated. The sidewall holes on lacrosse heads are different depending on the head. Luckily, our good friend YouTube has thousands of different videos with stringing tutorials for different heads. Go to YouTube, search: “(your lacrosse head) stringing tutorial,” and enjoy.

I was also looking around and found these great tutorials on StringKing’s website, called uString. You can check it out here. They have several tutorials on different heads, with a bunch of illustrations and pictures. You might want to check this out.

Bottom String Tutorial

Bottom strings are extremely easy to string. There’s a few different variations of bottom strings, but for the most part, they are pretty straight forward. Here is the tutorial that I use for bottom strings:

Shooting Strings

The method of stringing shooting strings is very easy, but there are a lot of different ways to customize your stick. Here’s an excellent video showing you what I mean:

That’s it! Stringing a lacrosse stick is a lot easier than ever due to the vide range of videos on the internet. Do not get frustrated when you first start stringing, it can be difficult when you’re just getting started. Good luck!

Pocket Gut Wall Stringing Kit with Boot Lace for Wood Lacrosse Sticks

Pocket Gut Wall Stringing Kit with Boot Lace for Wood Lacrosse Sticks

Pocket Gut Wall Stringing Kit with Boot Lace for Wood Lacrosse Sticks
Wood Lacrosse Sticks
Do you have an old stick lying around your house in need of some help? This is perfect for “do it your-self-ers”. The cow hide in this kit is used to authentically replace the sidewall of a stick. We have used the 1/8th inch gut wall as it is the most commonly used. Kits come with 4 extra-long brown leathers, top quality Boot Lace cross lace, double strength sidewall strings, and classic white shooting strings. These Materials will work on all lacrosse heads except Goalie Pockets.
Sporting Goods > Team Sports > Lacrosse > Lacrosse Sticks
WLS-KIT-GUT-BOOT
WLS-KIT-GUT-BOOT

45. 99
Wood Lacrosse Sticks
https://woodlacrossesticks.com/Item/Traditional-Pocket-Gut-Wall-Stringing-Kit-with-Boot-Lace-for-Wood-Lacrosse-Sticks

Pocket Gut Wall Stringing Kit with Boot Lace for Wood Lacrosse Sticks

Do you have an old stick lying around your house in need of some help? This is perfect for do-it-yourselfers.

The cow hide in this kit is used to authentically replace the sidewall of a stick. We have used the 1/8th inch gut wall as it is the most commonly used.

Kits come with 4 extra-long brown leathers, top quality Boot Lace cross lace, double strength sidewall strings, and classic white shooting strings.

Sold by Justin Skaggs, Skaggs Woodworks, who is a non-indigenous stick-maker in Philadelphia, PA. His wood sticks are made in the likeness of sticks made throughout history. Each stick is handcrafted over the course of many months.

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11 Amazing Lacrosse Tips to Up Your Game

Here are some cool tips that most lacrosse players are unaware of. Check them out and tell us what you think about these amazing tricks –

1. Putting inverted V or U Shooting String

Putting an inverted V or U shooting string in your mesh pocket can be difficult, and it’s very easy to make the pocket uneven doing it the way you would do a normal shooting string. Instead of putting a string across the mesh then wrapping around it, run the string in and out every hole in the mesh, then do the same on your way back.

Not only is this easier, it prevents the ball from shooting off the v-string, it just channels it towards the normal shooting strings. Also, if you have a problem with ball coming off the v-string, you can bring it up past the first two or three shooting strings so that the ball is channeled directly into the shooting strings.

2. How to Take Gloss out of Soft Mesh

One way to take some of the “gloss” out of new soft mesh and/or pinch your head a little is to put it in the dishwasher. All you do is wash your head in the dish washer and when it comes out immediately take a piece of wood or something hard that is the length that you want to pinch your head to, tie your head to it and set it outside.

If you just want to take the “gloss” out of the mesh wash it in the dishwasher and let it sit in there for a few hours while it firms up. The fewer dishes you have in with your head the softer the plastic will get.

3. How to Care for Your Lacrosse Stick in Wet Season

When wet, the leather at the top of mesh strung sticks will sag and after a while the leather will get so worn it will snap. So when stringing mesh take a nylon shooter, fold it in half and run it through the top 4 holes like you would with the leather. The nylon is less likely to sag and will last longer than a leather. It’s also easier to do.

4. How to Dye Your lacrosse Stick

When dying your lacrosse stick take a piece of string and run it through the hole where the screw would hold the shaft and head together. and connect both pieces of string and tie them together. When you put the head in the dye don’t submerge the whole string, just enough to where the entire head is under water. When you’re done dying pull the head out by the string. This prevents water sloshing around and keeps your fingers the color they were before you dyed your stick.

Before you dye your stick plan it out. The reason for saying this is you don’t want to be doing 10 things at once. Put the hot glue or the tape on BEFORE you start boiling the water. This will prevent mess ups and keep you from going insane.

5.

How To Make A Pocket

When making your pocket a quick and easy way to do it is to place a screwdriver over the ball and under the sidewall so the ball is held firmly in place… and placing the ENTIRE stick underwater. Leave the stick under water for an extended amount of time and then remove and let it air dry. The leathers will tighten around the ball and you’ll have an instant pocket. At first the leathers will be tight but after about a day or two of pounding or throwing against the wall they’ll loosen up.

6. How to Make Soft Mesh Stick A Bit Stiffer

If you have a soft mesh stick and you want it a little more stiff, put the stick on the ground outside face down. Take a can of laundry starch and spray over all of the mesh. After it’s dry, do another coat wait for it to dry and do another coat and so on depending on how you want it. Do the same to the inside of the pocket.

7. How To String The Shooter of a Mesh Stick

We have found a good way to string the shooters of a mesh stick (soft or hard) that is deep and will hold the ball well for fakes. You use three hockey laces. String the top lace very tight, and you can pound it a little later to how you want it. The next string should be strung loosely. Finally the last string should be strung very loose. It should be so loose that the mesh can be pounded to the max, without the string getting in the way.

Then you just pound, pound, pound it in. You pound the bottom two the most, and the top to your liking, depending on how much whip, if any, you like. Pound them in the middle only, because this creates more of a channel. When done, your stick should have a less than 45 degree angle which it holds the ball on the strings. If you don’t like your pocket in the front of the stick, you can pound it back to where you like it, and it will still fake rather well.

8. How to Breaking-in New Sticks

Loosen the side strings at least 1″ and do very little with the bottom of the leathers (or tie-off cord) at the throat of the stick. Then stretch the pocket with a ball midway along the length of the pocket, jammed under a butter knife.

When you get a new “traditional” head, rub baby powder into the leathers. This softens the leathers and helps to repel water because the baby powder gets into the leather pores. Repeat this at least once a week for the first month and when leathers dry after every wet game or practice. A softer pocket wears less and is easier to catch with.

9. How to Pinch Lacrosse Head

When pinching a head, don’t microwave it or do it over a stove, bake it in the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. To keep it legal up top, cut a dowel rod to 6 1/2 inches. Also, to keep the bottom of the head legal, you can place a field hockey ball in the bottom, since they are slightly larger than lax balls.

10. How to String Traditional Lacrosse Head

When stringing traditional, tie the nylons off at the top of each leather and at the bottom of each leather, and string the pocket the usual way. You will soon figure out that this allows you to replace broken nylons easily in the middle of a game.

When stringing traditional, always use a double knot for each diamond, this ensures that the pocket is set the way you string it. Also when you string traditional, you need to twist two pieces of nylon between the middle two leathers, so my pocket is symmetrical.

11. How to Turn Soft Mesh into Hard Mesh

If you want to turn soft mesh into hard mesh put it in a cool bowl of salt water. To make the salt water keep pouring salt into the bowl of water until the salt doesn’t dissolve in the water any more. Let it soak for an hour and stir it every once in a while to get the salt dissolved again. Take it out and let it dry. It should have some salt sticking to it still, making it crusty.

After it has dried, spray paint both sides any color. Now you have hard mesh. If you want really hard mesh, instead of using cool water use hot water. Be careful using hot water though because it might shrivel up your mesh or run a dyed head.

When stringing mesh, use one 4 foot long piece of traditional lace. Use it for both the top and the sidewalls . Start at the top where you tie off the top tight. Then for the sides you can adjust for depth you want. Also, it helps to keep the mesh as close to the scoop as you can. Another tip is after cut my shafts down, quickly smooth down the edges so that the edge does not cut into the butt end stop.

Last modified: July 9, 2020

Play cue or master at work can be seen

I often hear “the cue is in the hand”, a little less often “the effect of a new cue”, sometimes the phrase “play cue” sounds. Over the past few years, due to an active search, study and understanding of the “pieces of wood” in the game, I come to the formulation of the constant – “The master at work is visible.” In fact, any creation is a reflection of the essence of the “artist”. Understand correctly, I will not now conduct a dialogue with reference to the masters of cues and their products, but I will try to outline some kind of abstraction, in relation to the pattern of what we are looking for in cues? Having analyzed meaningfully two often expressed, without conceptual, “definitions”, let us try to grasp the essence of the latter.Because In my vocabulary there is no concept of “lying in the hand”, except for the correct grip of the hand at the turnbuckle and the convenient movement of the shaft for executing blows, then you can immediately deal with the “effect of the new”. The first two or three days, perhaps a week, the death of most of the blows and the euphoria of the “caught” game, is often associated with an intuitive understanding of the action of the cue itself. Those. we do not play in our usual manner, more “listening” to the sensations of the work of the stick – how he feeds, puts, screws and holds the ball. We would continue to move in the same direction, but no … we again return to our own style of play, and here two options emerge: either the technique does not overpower the capabilities of the stick, or the stick cannot fulfill the style of play. To break this “vicious” circle, and understand what we need, consider the example of archery – we take one with an ordinary rubber band, and the other with a bowstring. First, we will shoot at a target from a distance of 5 meters, and then from 50 meters … naturally, both arrows will hit the target only in the first case, in the second, the rubber band will either break, or it simply does not have enough “strength” for 50 meters. And now let’s put the child to the bow … he will hit the target from 5 meters only with an elastic band, he simply will not have enough strength to pull the string.Quietly, we logically approached what is considered a “game” cue. A stick capable of exercising the style of your head and the ability of your hands is a play tool. By contradictory method, either we return to the “new cue effect” with an increase in the level of play by a couple of three balls, or if you saw or “spied” some blows and tried to execute them, but did not “work out” – look for another cue … Which one ?. .. Masters can be seen at work …))) That’s why we are discussing masters in polemics, in order to have an idea of ​​their tools.There are a dozen good masters, otherwise the top ones and most would play one instrument, just at some point, we have a certain level of play of our head and the ability of our hands …)))

Being kind is much more difficult than being smart …

Author: leman. 18 March, 2016 – 23:53

How to properly adjust the speed switches on a bicycle

Every cyclist sooner or later faces the problem of poor gear shifting on a bicycle.

There may be several reasons for this – damaged cables or dirty shirts, a stretched chain, poorly tuned front or rear derailleurs. It is the latter circumstance that most critically affects the quality of a bicycle’s gear shifting and can turn your ride into a continuous torment.

Many beginners rely on experienced mechanics for this procedure. This is the correct approach. But over time, you realize that you need to learn how to independently make the specified setting.This will not only help to save a certain amount of money on the services of a bicycle mechanic, but will allow you to independently, at any time, adjust the speeds, ensuring the perfect gear shifting of the bicycle throughout the entire trip. This text lists specific steps that even a beginner cyclist can follow to adjust the speed of his bike on his own.

Setting the rear derailleur.

The first thing to start with the adjustment is an external examination of the rear cross-over.It is necessary to make sure that the gearshift cable is securely fastened and supplied, its integrity, cleanliness and no wear of the upper and lower derailleur rollers. And also, the flatness of the foot, which during the operation of the bicycle can deform when falling.

It is very easy to check the evenness of the foot – you need to look at the back of the derailleur and make sure that the corresponding sprocket of the cassette or ratchets, as well as the upper and lower roller of the derailleur, are on the same line perpendicular to the ground.If all of the above conditions are met, you can safely proceed to the setup.

It is necessary to set the chain to the minimum rear sprocket, correspondingly turning on the maximum reverse speed on the bike. To carry out the adjustment, both the front and rear cross-overs have two adjusting screws on their body, denoted by the letters H and L (High and Low, respectively). Since at the beginning of the adjustment, the chain was set to the maximum gear at the rear, for adjustment you need exactly the screw with the letter H, which is responsible for adjusting high speeds.Rotating it clockwise or counterclockwise, they achieve such a position of the switch foot so that both of its rollers are strictly in line with the smallest back sprocket. After that, it is necessary to engage the minimum reverse gear, in which the chain is on the largest sprocket at the back. And with another screw, which is marked with the letter L, make an identical adjustment before aligning the rollers with a large sprocket.

Sometimes a situation arises when, after correct and careful tuning and adjustment of the rear derailleur, a problem arises when shifting into high or low gears is poor.This is due to a strong or weak tension in the gear shift cable. This adjustment can be done in two ways – a special regulator on the rear derailleur, or a regulator on the gear shift knob (shifter). Which of the options is used on a particular bike depends on the level of equipment set by the manufacturer. If the chain is thrown poorly into lower gears, the tension of the cable should be increased, and with poor dropping to higher gears, on the contrary, it should be reduced.

On the middle and high level rear crossovers there is another adjustment possibility – the distance of the guide roller (upper) to the cassette stars (chain tensioner adjustment). It is produced as follows. The chain is installed on the largest sprocket at the back and the largest at the front. In this position, the rear derailleur foot will be pulled to the maximum. And with the adjusting screw, you need to achieve a distance of approximately 5mm from the top roller to the sprocket teeth.It is at this distance that the smoothest and most precise gear shifting is achieved. It is not worth reducing it, as there may be a risk of the roller catching on the sprocket teeth and damaging it.

Setting the front derailleur.

Before adjusting the front override, you must first make sure that it is correctly positioned on the bike frame. For beginners, there are two recommendations. The first is to make sure that when you engage the largest chainring at the front, its teeth are at a short distance from the bend of the derailleur frame, as well as at the same distance from it.At the same time, in no case should they touch the frame or, on the contrary, be far from it.

The second is the parallelism of the switch frame to all the stars in the horizontal plane. That is, if you look at the switch from above, then its frame should be parallel to the stars of the system.

You need to start the adjustment by setting the chain to the minimum front and maximum rear sprocket. Next, you need to unscrew the bolt that fixes the cable to the switch housing.After that, it will take its natural position and you can proceed directly to the setting. Turning the screw marked L (Low) in different directions, you need to set the gap between the chain and the switch frame in the region of 1-2 mm. It is this distance that will ensure perfect shifting, and also eliminate the possibility of chain friction on the derailleur frame during driving. After that, it is necessary to fasten the shift cable with a slight interference, making sure that it lies in the required groove in the clamping area.With the chain set to the maximum chainring and minimum sprocket, use the adjusting screw marked H to adjust the same way until the minimum clearance is found between the chain on the large chainring and the derailleur frame. If, after carrying out the above procedure, difficulties arise with the inclusion of low or high forward speeds, it is worth adjusting the tension of the shift cable, similar to setting the rear derailleur.

Having mastered both types of speed adjustment on a bicycle as quickly as possible, you will protect yourself from unpleasant surprises that may arise during the ride, having the opportunity to make the necessary adjustments at any time, spending a minimum of time and effort.

90,000 Oleg Tinkov spoke about his illness – Offline on vc.ru

The entrepreneur still has problems, so he will have to be near a clinic in London for at least a year.

In his Instagram account, Tinkov showed a trailer for a film about the history of his illness – it will first be released on Channel One, and then “on all sites in the country,” Tinkov wrote.

In the description of the video, he spoke about his health: Tinkov’s survival rate increased from 25% to 49-75% – it depends on the doctor and is considered five years, he said.

In March 2020, Tinkov announced that he had leukemia, and in July he underwent a bone marrow transplant.The donor took root, and the blood type changed seven months later, he said in a post. But there are still problems – the donor’s immune cells perceive the cells of the host’s body as foreign and attack them.

“The blow hits the skin, mouth and eyes. I drink 20 tablets a day, ”wrote the entrepreneur. He added that every two weeks he goes to the clinic, where with the help of a new method they are fighting the graft reaction.Because of this, he will remain in London for at least another year – next to the clinic.

30,200

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How to pull up an awning in the country

It is good to have a rest in the summer at the dacha, but when the sun is very hot, you want to hide in the shade.It so happens that at the summer cottage there is no opportunity to relax in the shade of trees. And then you can shade a small area in the courtyard of a private house using a shed or a gazebo. Making a simple canopy in the country yourself is very simple – you just need to install supports and fix a roof made of one or another material on them. Even beginners can handle the work, and more experienced craftsmen can turn this structure into a real decoration of the site.

There are several ways to make a simple canopy with your own hands from scrap materials.

DIY simple fabric sun canopy

Usually, summer cottages have a rather limited space and such a fabric canopy will be an excellent addition to your summer vacation. Moreover, any materials at hand are suitable for the implementation of this idea.

• For a quick construction of a sun canopy, you will need 4 supports (long sticks 2 – 2.5 meters) 4 containers for installing the supports and any material for the awning.
• Instead of sticks, you can use wooden beams, bamboo sticks, metal supports for climbing plants, and even PVC pipes.
• Containers in the form of buckets, flower pots, etc. are needed to install and secure the supports.
• An old bedspread, tablecloth or plain sheet is suitable for an awning.

Building a canopy – quick and easy

The idea of ​​\ u200b \ u200bbuilding a canopy from a fabric is simple to disgrace and it is surprising why it is so rarely used! But everything is very simple.

It is necessary to install supports in the prepared containers and fill them with any material at hand – soil, sand, crushed stone.Ideally, it is best to use a cement mortar. Then you can be sure that the supports are securely fastened.

Then everything is simple – depending on what you will use as an awning, place the supports at the selected distance and pull the awning between them, tying the ends with a rope.

Everything, an impromptu canopy made of fabric for a summer residence is ready. Its special advantage is that when leaving for the city, you can fold and remove the awning in the closet.

If it is possible to attach a tent to a tree branch, then this will be an ideal place to relax.

How to make a PVC pipe garden canopy

PVC pipes are so easy to use that craftsmen constantly find different uses for them. They can be used to build an original garden shed and even a full-fledged gazebo. The process will not take much time, and the result will please you. Despite its simplicity, the construction of plastic water pipes will turn out to be reliable and will perform its functions perfectly.

For a do-it-yourself garden shed, you will need PVC pipes for the frame, 4 pieces of reinforcement, fabric for the awning, twine (if necessary) and flower pots if desired.Be sure to check that the pins fit inside the pipe. The inner diameter of the pipes is 12 mm and they are connected to each other on tees and fittings.

Awning made of any dense fabric, the edges can be pulled to the pipes with nylon twine, or the edges can be sewn to thread the pipes inside.

Stages of construction of a canopy of PVC pipes 90 100

1. To begin with, let’s determine the dimensions of the frame, the ends of the two prefabricated pipes are bent in the form of an arch, and pieces of reinforcement are hammered into the ground at the attachment points. You can install flower pots on the fittings and use them for planting flowers.
2. One single arch is too weak to even support the tarpaulin. Therefore, it is safer to connect two arches with a transverse piece of pipe (or two), using tees that are suitable in diameter.
3. For the canopy, ready-made curtains can be used, the edges of which have already been sewn under the rod. Regular fabric will not withstand rain and wind, but this is not necessary here. The entire structure is disassembled in a few minutes and the fabric is removed from the PVC pipes. In addition, the curtain can be easily moved along the pipe to find a shade in any position of the sun.
4. Depending on the project, the way of fixing the trim can be different – sometimes you can use the top strapping as a cornice, on which the fabric is put on like a curtain. In any case, it is necessary to provide convenient adjustment of the shade level of the gazebo and high-quality protection from wind and rain.

Arrangement of a wooden shed near a private house

The construction of a wooden shed with your own hands near a private house is based on several stages.

It is important to choose the right materials, prepare all the tools.After that, you can proceed to the arrangement of the foundation for the installation of the frame. The work should be completed by installing the rafter system and laying the slate.

Selection of materials for the canopy 90 100

Wood materials are suitable for installing a canopy at a summer cottage. Durable pine is most suitable. Solid wood of this reliable tree is able to decorate any exterior. The ease of using pine is due to the not too large weight of the material.

The selection of materials depends on the size of the future canopy.Functional purpose also plays an important role. Before arranging the structure, it is important to draw up a diagram. The wooden canopy consists of the following basic elements:

• walls or screens – 5 pcs.;

90,090 racks – 6 pcs.;

90,090 beams or boards – 4 pcs.;

• lathing;
• roofing material.

Structural elements can be connected using anchors, metal corners. To check the evenness of the joints, experienced craftsmen recommend using a building level.

Laying the foundation for a canopy

Before laying the foundation, it is important to choose the right type of foundation, coordinating it with the structure of the canopy. All dimensions of the structure and its foundations must be calculated in advance.

If you do not provide an additional foundation for a wooden canopy, then you can drive the support posts for the canopy into the previously prepared pits. For drilling wells, it is enough to have a drill, but an ordinary shovel will do. The pits should be in line and have a depth of about 50 cm.

A building level is required to check the horizontality of the foundation being built.

Installation of frame and roof 90 100

Support pillars should be installed at a distance of 1 m from each other. This will ensure that the awning hangs at a distance of 2 m, and the side elements of the structure – by 0. 5-1 m. Before pouring the pits with concrete, they should be covered with crushed stone for maximum frame stability.

For accurate placement of rafters, the beams should be cut in height with a bevel at an angle corresponding to the slope of the future roof of the canopy.The racks should not have a height of less than 1.8 m. To overlap a 6 m span, beams with a cross-section of 150×50 mm will be sufficient. Rafters can be made of them by placing them at a distance of 1 m from each other.

Next, you can proceed to the installation of the lathing on the rafters perpendicular to the beams. Self-tapping screws for wood should be used as fasteners. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the awning.

If you use a soft material such as a tarpaulin, then it can be fixed like curtains, and you will be able to move them apart in cloudy weather.

Thus, using our advice, you can make not only a simple temporary shed in the country, but also a stationary one, more like a gazebo.

The awning has many of the advantages of a gazebo and at the same time is mobile, lightweight, and rest with it can be organized in different places. But so that this simple and functional canopy does not leave you at the most inopportune moment in the rain or scorching sun, you need to know how to properly pull and secure it.

What to do absolutely not

There are a number of rules that are not recommended for your own safety.Awnings cannot be installed:

• near burrows and anthills;
• in the riverbed;
• at a distance of less than 10 meters from the shore of the reservoir;
• at the foot of a steep slope;
• in a ravine;
• next to dry trees.

In the forest, choose areas with low trees, on the plain, try to find at least one tree or several bushes.

Stretch the tarpaulin lightly. To assess the possible “dangers” of the area, you must see it well.

Basic methods of installing awnings

There are many options for stretching awnings, but there are only four main ones. The rest of their variations.

Diagonal installation

The awning is thrown diagonally over a crossbar or a well-stretched rope and tilted to the sides. This makes it possible to reduce the wind load on the panel, and the formed triangular wings almost do not sag, and therefore water does not accumulate in them. The downside is that the usable area of ​​the canopy is not fully used.

On the central support

The awning is thrown onto a vertically standing support (pillar), and its edges are pulled from the center to the sides, forming a pyramidal roof. To protect the fabric from damage, the central part of the canopy is reinforced with a thick fabric, and a cut plastic bottle is put on the support. Such an installation gives a good tension to the canopy and allows you to make the most of its usable area. Its disadvantage is that it does not provide protection against slanting rain and wind.

Installation “house”

If the dimensions of the awning cloth allow, you can stretch it in the form of two, which, dropping as close to the ground as possible, form a “house”. For this scheme, you will need two pillars on the sides. The lower the edges of the awning are lowered to the ground, the better the protection of the space under it from the sun, wind and precipitation. The downside is that moving under such a roof is problematic.

Installation with the letter “G”

Awning stretched at an angle of 35-40 degrees in the shape of the letter “L”, so that the lower edge is pressed to the ground, and the upper edge is located at a height of about 2 meters, like the “house” will not only protect from wind and precipitation, but also keep heat.This method is also good in that it provides free passage for tall people. The main thing is to correctly position the awning in relation to the wind. He must blow from behind, otherwise the cover will be useless.

How to securely attach the tarpaulin

It is advisable to purchase an awning complete with a set of guy wires. Otherwise, the cord will have to be bought separately, and the stands and wedges should be cut out in nature from scrap wood.

The second thing you need to pay attention to is the presence of loops on the awning for fixing the stretch marks.It is not recommended to pass the rope through the metal eyelets at the edges of the awning. They will not withstand the tension and wind and will quickly break free.

To prevent the canopy from collapsing under the gusts of wind, all knots are tightened as tightly as possible. Try to stretch the canopy without horizontal slack, otherwise water will accumulate in them.

On each slope, define a drainage area and stretch the fabric in this place so that a vertical “channel” is formed through which the water will drain.

The efficiency of its use directly depends on the correct installation of the awning.Follow the guidelines above and you will always have a quick-assembling mobile shelter from the heat and bad weather at your fingertips.

TRUE DIMENSIONS
So, the awning is relatively compact (of course, depending on the size of the panel and the type of fabric), it is quite easy to put into working position and is able to protect a company of travelers from rain, hail, snow. It remains to decide what exactly to buy: awnings differ in size, type of fabric, equipment and in the presence of all sorts of things that facilitate installation and extend the life of the fabric.

First, let’s define the dimensions. It is clear that the smaller the awning, the more compact it is when folded and the easier it is to hang it. But at the same time, not so many people can be accommodated under it. In addition, a large awning allows you to make walls – protection from oblique rain and wind, but with a small one it will not work. There would be to cover your head.

We tried different options and sizes and installations. As a result, we found out that an awning measuring 3 × 3 meters is able to cover a small table and a maximum of four people on chairs from vertically falling rain.In this case, the panel should be stretched at a low height, approximately 1.7-1.9 meters. If you sit on the ground without furniture, then you can sit down and six of them. But there will be no talk of any walls, protection from the wind, storage of luggage under an awning. This is an option for short-term parking by a small (4-5 people) company.

If the area of ​​the awning is large, one wing can be made a “wall”

The eyelets are fixed in the thickest place of the reinforcement, which means that the awning post will not break through

NON-LINEAR DEPENDENCE
It is much more productive and comfortable to simultaneously increase both the length and the width.For example, an awning with a size of 5.8×4 meters already allows you to put a “wall” and accommodate not only five or six full-size chairs and a dining area, but also some kind of luggage from the side of the “wall”. If it is completely expanded, then eight people will find shelter under the fabric. This option can already be considered for long-term parking. And it would seem that the increase is only three meters in length and a meter in width.

If we increase the width by another meter, then we get a whole city. It can accommodate both a kitchen and a warehouse, and there is a place for evening gatherings for a dozen travelers.And if a kitchen and a warehouse are not needed, then all fifteen will sit in armchairs.

WE WILL NOT BE BETTER?
It is worth paying attention to what the awning is equipped with. After all, we are already accustomed to the fact that when buying a product, we can immediately start using it. Everything is different here. Firstly, some models are not even equipped with stretchers, not to mention pegs and stands. If, say, it is still possible to hang an awning in the forest without the latter, then without ropes it is simply nowhere. Therefore, be sure to check the completeness and buy everything that is missing immediately, but with a margin.

Now let’s talk about what is on the tent itself. Or what might be on it. After all, manufacturers really care about us, coming up with useful things. Take, for example, the fastening of the guy wires. If the awning has no loops under them – do not even think about taking it. Moreover, the place where the loops are sewn should be reinforced, and the loops themselves are not sewn along the edge, but as far away from it as possible. Otherwise, a strong gust of wind will simply tear out a piece of fabric – and you will be left without a roof over your head. For the same reason, the eyelets for the posts should also be located on the reinforced section of the awning.By the way, using eyelets to attach stretch marks is a sure way to shorten the life of an awning. Experience shows that iron rounds, even from reinforced sections, are easily pulled out: the tension force is very large. So only hinges.

Reinforced areas are also worth examining carefully. The reinforcement material is desirable thicker than the main one: after all, the expected load is high. And it’s good if the seam with which they are connected is not straight: there is less risk of breaking the awning.

By the way, glued seams are also a good thing if you are not ready to often treat the entire awning with water-repellent impregnation. Here you need to pay attention to the accuracy of the tape sticker: it should cover exactly the seam, and not the space next to it. And, like any glue joint, the gluing of the seams does not last forever. Therefore, before the trip, do not be too lazy to check all the seams, especially if your awning is more than one year old.

ONLY BOTH
So, the tent is purchased, it’s time to hike.But first, let’s pack the equipment properly. The volume of a folded awning depends not only on its size and on the density of the fabric, but also on the ability to fold it. It is quite logical to assume that a 6×6 meter awning when folded will be four times larger than a 3×3 awning. In fact, not quite so. For example, we had 3×3 meter tents made of thin fabric like parachute silk. So you can hide them in your pocket altogether, however, quite spacious. And the product measuring 5.8×4 meters was made of denser fabric.Therefore, when folded, it took up almost four times more space.

And nevertheless, the method of folding the awning is archival. The main thing is not to leave “pockets” from which air cannot escape. The fabric is windproof. It is most convenient to fold the awning in half lengthwise and roll it up, trying to squeeze out all the air to the maximum. It will turn out to be even more compact than the original packaging.

Many people like to install an awning with a post in the center, citing the best tension. The question is controversial, but the presence of a reinforcing lining in the middle of the panel is still desirable: the more installation options, the more comfortable the rest.If there is no center lining, you will have to put something like a tin can or a cut plastic bottle on the center stake. It’s not glamorous, of course, but practical.

The classic two- or four-pitched roof design with gentle slopes gives the largest usable roof area. But it protects only from those precipitations that fall from above. Slanting rain, blizzard, wind penetrate under the shelter, depriving the rest of the warmth and comfort. If there are no other options, then the roof should be lowered as low as possible, trying to make it as difficult as possible for precipitation to penetrate under the awning.

Therefore, the best option seems to me to install in the form of a tilted letter “G”. Moreover, the part that forms the roof should be inclined towards the wall. Then there will be a lot of space, and the passage is normal, and there will be a corner for things. The main thing is to guess the direction of the wind and correctly orient the shelter. Otherwise, instead of a spacious, almost protected room, you will get a completely useless canopy flooded with rain and accessible to gusts of wind.

As you can see, the awning is a simple product, but it requires attention when choosing and experience during installation.If everything is done correctly, then you will get an easy-to-mount shelter that can reliably protect you from bad weather.

90,000 Great hotel. – review about Katathani Phuket Beach Resort, Kata Noi Beach, Thailand

We rested in Katathani in the part that has access to the beach, which is 5 stars, 14 nights from 31.10.2016. As I understand it, the part of the hotel behind the road is positioned as 4 stars, the part with access to the beach is positioned as 5 stars.
We flew to another hotel, to Centara Grand … 5 on Karon, but there was an accident in it a day before our arrival, and the hotel did not accept guests, even those who had already lived in the hotel were resettled.
What can I say about Katathani ..
I myself would not buy a tour for it, because in appearance it is painfully similar to a boarding house built in the Soviet period. Somehow everything is very simple. Appearance, architecture – the usual 4 *, not higher.
The hotel is generally NOT BAD, but NOT more. It has potential, and if desired, you can make a decent hotel out of it. And so – a sooooo weak five, sooooo, and even more so not delux 5 *, as they write about themselves (when you go to wifi, on the icon it is this delux 5 * and stands next to the name of the hotel).Far from delux 5 *.
There are, in my opinion, significant drawbacks that 5 * should not have. The main ones are: 1) the state of the beach, 2) the state of the territory, 3) balconies that are unsafe for small children.
But in order. The rooms are spacious (we lived in building 3), everything looks like new, without flaws. But the impression is “wow!” – this is not. In general, at first I caught myself thinking “how shabby everything is!” But then I took a closer look – no, this is such a design, the tree is “made” like that.
In trips to the countries of Southeast Asia, when you move from place to place on the route, more than once stopped in urban 3 *, including, and in many cases the numbers in these three-ruble notes were more colorful, more interesting.And even more so in decent beach fives.
Balconies. The fence is wooden, the balconies in our building were not straight, but with the letter “P”. Two horizontal pieces of wood and vertical ones between them. So, the distance between the vertical sticks in the lateral parts is such that the head of a 2-3-year-old child easily passes. If someone does not know, the child is able to get into the gap where his head goes. It means that a child can fly out of the balcony – a pair of trifles. Yes, and along the front, if desired, the child will squeeze through. I immediately realized that I could not see a calm rest.It was not hot, the door to the balcony was always open, and the child naturally played everywhere. Well, I’m in constant tension, you always look – where he is. And even moving to the 1st floor does not solve the problem: there are also balconies on the 1st floor, and they are raised by half a meter. The child got out of there – all the same, he will break something for himself.
It was shocking that along the frontal part 4 (!) Vertical cross-bars nearby simply fell off from one end, from below, and hung “on snot”, on 1 nail driven into the other end, into the upper one. It opened, as soon as you came up and touched your knee – the stick went forward!
The sent master “repaired” them by driving in 1 stud each diagonally, thus connecting the vertical and the horizontal one.It is clear that such a repair is snot, and if the kid had to take the sticks with his hands and start swinging them, these mounts would fly out.
I bought a skoch in a store and wrapped it around the balcony railing. The locals became agitated, and a day later the master came and pulled a brown net with Velcro fastening on the entire fence of the balcony. It was a little lacking at the edges, where the largest gaps are, but in general it became safer. Only the view of the lawn became through the net)))
What genius architect came up with such a flimsy fence ??
Territory.I go through a huge amount of hotel reviews and people react very positively if the hotel grounds are like a tropical garden. A riot of nature, flowers. Unfortunately, this is not the case in Katathani. As if one of the hotel owners had been to England and were impressed by their lawns. And I decided that lawns are the coolest thing that can be. And the territory of the hotel is just a lawn with palms and trees growing on it. There is no sense of presence in the tropics. As if in Turkey. You even come to the Egyptian Five – EVERYTHING is in bloom.Here, in a climate in which you stick a stick in the ground – it will bloom, all the feeling of tropical nature has been killed by designers. In that climate, a HUGE number of beautiful ornamental plants grows beautifully, but there are practically none on the territory of the hotel. Even the trees ubiquitous for Southeast Asia with beautiful fragrant white and pink flowers that always adorn the territory of hotels – there are only a few of them on the territory of the 5-star part, and even then they hardly bloom. In our presence, pots with flowers similar to petunias were hung on them, and near the reception, blooming orchids were tied to 3 trees with green foil.It looked just miserable. Do they think people fly halfway across the world to enjoy their lawn ?? In Europe, lawns are all year round, in Moscow – I see them for half a year. In terms of plant design, this is the poorest and wretched five that I have seen in life in Southeast Asia. Even those decorative mini-ponds that are on the territory – they are empty! The floor is tiled, with a vase of grass stuck in the center – at best. Why not let red carps go there, plant beautiful aquatic plants? If we compare with the good fives of Southeast Asia, where I have been, then the territory of this hotel is on a weak C! Look in the internet for a photo of the Grand Hyatt Bali.The photos do not reflect even a third of the beauty of the territory. I have been to that Hayate twice. Compared to it, the territory of Katathani is soooo modest. Simply “none”. BUT, I was SHOCKED checking out and finding out that staying at Katathani is MORE EXPENSIVE! With what fright ???
Only behind buildings 1 and 2, near the simulators, there is a small corner with a pond, flowering aquatic plants, somehow even beautifully trimmed trees and miraculously preserved tropical plants. Only that part is somehow close to the feeling of tropical nature.
The similarity of the territory with the Turkish hotel is given by tall conifers, from which round small and very thorny cones fall. It is very painful to step. The child stepped on when going to the beach – the scales from the bump stuck deeply, the leg in that turned red and swollen. Smeared with iodine, slowly passed.
A strange feature of the hotel is the attempt to decorate it with potted plants. During our time (in November), pots with bare stems of bougainvillea were placed on the buildings on the balconies (photos are attached). In a month and a half it will be overgrown with leaves, in another month it will bloom slightly …
Why not just plant these bougainvilleas in the ground, let them see buildings and balconies? For that, everything would be buried in flowers.
And they themselves understand that these “pots with bare branches” look shameful, because before the Thai wedding they were quickly removed from the restaurant and pots with lush grass were placed.
By the way, thanks to that Thai wedding, at least for the sake of it flowers appeared in the restaurant and in the building for a while. Surprisingly, on the part of the hotel that is beyond the road, with flowers and plants, it’s even more interesting, even more pleasant to be.
Yes, the hotel has well-made pools, somewhere even the designer’s train of thought can be traced.But there is nothing more to praise on the territory …. Perhaps the hotel management does not understand that a small child is not interested in the pool on the territory, but to play in the sand. But the beach ..
A separate “song” is the beach … This is the first time I’ve seen such a neglected, unkempt and littered beach in front of a 5-star hotel. They may argue that “the beaches in Phuket are not private, but rather common.” To which I will answer: gentlemen, all over Tae the beaches have the same status. And in Bali too. And in Burma (Myanmar. If anyone does not know – there are wonderful hotels and beautiful sandy beaches).Yes, and in Vietnam. And in Zanzibar))) And in Kenya, there are beautiful CLEAN beaches.
BUT! I have never seen such a neglected beach in any five! The beach is the face of the hotel, even if it does not formally belong to the hotel. I always run on the beach in the morning, I like to walk and watch a lot. If anyone rested in Bali in Nusa in a decent top five, then no matter how long you walk along the coast, there is cleanliness everywhere. Hotels CLEAN and maintain the beach in front of their territory.
In any top five in South Goa, hotel beaches are CLEANER! Not to mention the fact that South Goa is generally a beautiful sandy strip 70 meters wide (!), Going for kilometers to the right and to the left.Not 200 meters edge to edge like Kata Beach.
On the very first day, having gone out with the baby to the beach, I had to kick plastic bottles and other garbage with my feet in order to clear a clearing for him to play. After the night tide, during the day, everything was lying on the beach. Seeing that no one was itching to clean, at 17h I went to the reception. I explained to the lady that there is a lot of garbage on the beach, it is generally customary to clean it. She got worried, began to call somewhere. THIS garbage was collected. Black garbage bags lay like a mountain on the beach for 2 days until they were taken away.Later I realized that the sight of garbage bags at the beach exits is the norm .. The hotel does not clean the beach AT ALL. A couple of “municipal” janitors in the morning begin to collect garbage from the left end of the beach, slowly reaching the middle of the hotel by 14 o’clock … ..
I remembered South Goa with melancholy: you go out in the morning to go for a run, the sand is already smoothed out with a rake …. And this is INDIA !!
Naturally, with such a “cleaning” y Katathani, all small debris remains in the sand forever. The kid is digging a sand with a scoop, as if he is doing excavations: bulls, cocktail tubes and so on and so forth … It is also terrible that right at the stone wall, which represents the border of the hotel, local merchants have arranged several homeless people.Under the crowns of trees, where guests of the hotel with children could hide from the sun’s rays and the kids could play in the sand, traders from the rubbish thrown out by the sea have equipped themselves with “resting places”. Benches, couches, stuffed into sandbags, laid them on the floor (so as not to erode). It looks awful. And this is on the border of the hotel. There, the merchants “rest”, abandoning their children while wandering along the beach offering rags. The largest dumpsites are homeless – one near the beach entrance opposite the 3rd building (20 meters from the fish restaurant), the other right under the spa wall (symbolic).
If anyone thinks that I am “picking on”, then, gentlemen, in May 2016, we rested in the same composition for 2 weeks in the top five on Koh Samui. This is also Thailand. Centara 5 *, Beach – Chaweng (I have a review on it). I ran along the beach, walked. Even the three rubles on the beach did not have such an outrage as on the beach in front of Katathani in Phuket. The traders on Chaweng did not even dare to approach the hotel, they walked along the water, and if you wave your hand, only then could they come closer to the hotel. And even about arranging a “recreation area” in front of the hotel, bringing and leaving your children – this is not the case on the whole beach.Moreover, “wild” vacationers and local Thais on Koh Samui DO NOT lie in the shade of trees on the beach in front of the hotel. There is only one place on the whole beach, where they all sit.
Here you go to the beach and actually stumble over the spread out rags-bedding of those who settled in the ugly “hotel” behind the road (went into the alley opposite the hotel, was horrified). By the drying clothes hung on the bushes, you can easily recognize your compatriots (see photos, attached). The full feeling that I got to the beach of Anapa or Sochi…. The feeling is reinforced, it is enough to look behind the stones, which is on the right by the cliff: a mountain of rubbish.
I think that such a terrible state of the beach is entirely the fault of the hotel management. Drive the merchants out of the central part – let them hang around the edges of the hotel, remove all the trash from under the retaining wall, sandbags, fence off a strip of 10 meters along the sand along the border of the hotel and prevent the hotel guests from being NOT allowed there, CLEAN the beach every morning with a rake – and the beach will look like the beach of a 5-star hotel. This is all real. The hotel is a large employer and taxpayer, and if it establishes its own rules on the beach in the interests of its guests, neither merchants, nor “savages” will have nowhere to go to complain.
The only thing you want to give the hotel an A is the work of the staff in the restaurant for breakfast. The organization is excellent. As soon as people get up and leave – in 2-3 minutes everything is cleaned from the table, there are fresh appliances.
Breakfasts: yes, every day blue cheese, not bad. Good coffee from a coffee machine. There are always free tables, which is also not unimportant. Sea view from the restaurant. BUT never had seafood at breakfast. Even fish – 2 times in 14 days. Pork dominance. Somehow you get used to the fact that in the decent fives in Southeast Asia there are seafood for breakfast: salads with shrimp, squid, and so on.
It is also annoying that all the logistics (transportation of all goods) takes place on the territory of the hotel, although there is a carriageway 10 meters behind the rooms. Why not on her ?? It is very unpleasant when you walk with your baby along the path, because something is coming from behind or from the front, something is getting lucky ..
I will say that the hotel still has something to work on so that after a rest in it you can say: “ Oh, what hotel did I relax in !! ” So far, unfortunately, the impressions are very mixed. For the same money (and cheaper), you can relax in the tropics by the sea in hotels with a more beautiful territory and a better beach.
As for Phuket in general, in my opinion, the island and its beaches can only be liked by someone who has previously rested only in Phuket, Pattaya, Turkey and Sochi / Anapa and has not seen anything better.
It may seem that I am overly critical, but take a look, for example, my previous reviews on Koh Samui and South Goa. There are hotels you want to come back to. And the attached photos by Katathani speak for themselves.
If the hotel management transforms the hotel grounds into a lush tropical garden, cleans the beach and maintains it in perfect condition, then I will gladly return to this hotel and write a rave review about it.In the meantime – that is.

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sistemmebel camping komplektmeshki for magneziimeshki kompressionnyemeshki spalnyemeshki multi-purpose rock hammersmountinginstallation kitBalls for balancer raincoatsSlip padsHelmet protective padsShirts replaceable for soles Pole tipsSwitch shirt tipsBike shirt tipsSwitch cable tipsBike cable tipsBike filesSleeve guardsPumps for pumps ate tsepinippelinoskinoski with podogrevomobmotki rulyaoboda for velosipedaoselki for konkovosiosi for vtulkiosi komplektotvertkiottyazhki alpinistskieottyazhki for palatkiochistiteliochistiteli for velosipedaochistiteli for tsepiochki maskiochki solntsezaschitnyepalatki turisticheskiepalki for cross lyzhpalki mountain lyzhpalki for lyzherollerovpalki Nordic hodbypalki trekkingovyepegipedali for velosipedapereklyuchateli velocity velosipedaperchatkiperchatki velosipednyeperchatki for cross lyzhperchatki with podogrevomperchatki hokkeynyepetli strahovochnyeplavkiplavnikiplastyriplatformy for krepleniyplatyaplity gas turisticheskiepovyazki on the forehead footrests for a bicycle cushions for touring bearings a set of tires for a bicyclepolyrolol towels for a mattowels for a rug rastirkarastirkiremeshkiremeshki for gamashremeshki for kovrikovremeshki for ice instrumentaremeshki for palokremniremni for krepleniyarepshnuryroga on rulrolikirolly therapy myshtsrolly therapy stoprubashkirubashki pereklyuchatelyarubashki short rukavomrubashki tormozaruli for velosipedaruchki remote upravleniyaruchki for palokruchki pereklyuchatelyaruchki rulyaruchki tormozaryukzakiryukzaki for roller konkovryukzaki lavinnyesalfetki for ochkovsamokatysandaliisanki ledyankisvyazki for cross lyzhsedla for velosipedasetka for bagazhasetki mounts lamps mosquito nets for transporting children inflatable seats foam systems belay systems lacing systems jump ropes skateboards scrapers slates lubricants for bicycle chain greases greases consistent washes snowboards spokes for a bicycle split boards anti-fog spray glasses for assemblies glass panes for tourist hockey 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90,000 What if the stretch ceilings began to “breathe”?

Not every renovation ends on a positive note.Quite often, quite ordinary work that does not require anything from the workers except professionalism and skill, as a result, develop into serious conflicts with the owners of the dwellings. A member of the forum under the nickname Koott told about one not very pleasant story. “Stretched ceilings in the apartment. Immediately I was happy with the appearance – everything was beautiful and neat, but then flaws appeared ”, – explains the woman from Minsk.

“There was a problem with turning on the heating – the ceiling is breathing, – she says.- And this is very noticeable. In the photo there are pictures “before airing” and “after airing”. The difference is 5 minutes.

For the first time, when they noticed that the ceiling was “lying” on the cupboard, they thought that they were drowning us and ran to the neighbors. But since they were not there, we returned. When they opened the front door, they noticed how the ceiling rises before our eyes to its normal state. Of course, we were glad that this was not a flood, but still we were upset about the ceilings.

The call to the installers ended up with the proposal to make ventilation holes somewhere – this, in their opinion, should solve the problem.