The “Deal” With Traditional Stringing
StringKings recently dropped a new website on the world, and part of that website has been articles on lacrosse stuff. Their post on Traditional Stringing is a clear piece of troll bait, but I’ll bite on it, because I’m a sucker for stuff like that.
Let’s take a look at some of the ad hominem attacks on traditional stringing:
So we’ve been talking around the office for the last couple days about traditionally strung pockets. What’s the deal with them? Does anyone actually use one? Let me rephrase that, does anyone actually use one because it has performance benefits? I have plenty of friends that would use them to joke around with cause they thought they looked cool, but they were joking.
You know about Steele Stanwick, and all of the other guys on the All Traditional Team, right?
I know Steele Stanwick uses one, but that has to be for superstitious reasons.
Gotcha. I’ll assume the same for the rest of them.
His game can’t be improving with his proven inferior set up.
Yeah, the Stanwicks are not good. Wait, scratch that. The whole family is my hero.
They are heavier, less consistent, more vulnerable to break, less weather resistant, and more confusing to string.
False. False. True. False. True. 2 out of 5 ain’t bad.
Are they superior in any way? What am I missing here? Why do people still sell these bad larrys?
Ok, here we go.
I have had a lot of people string me mesh pockets. I can string a mean mesh pocket myself. I’ll take traditional any day. I get better hold, with a smoother and more consistent release with a well done traditional stick, and it can be diamonds or pita. The leather of the pocket stretches a bit with your cradle motion, and I can really feel the ball in my stick, wherever it sits. I don’t need V shooters either. My pocket can be customized 100%, and each tension points represents something I can change. If you have 35 tension points on a mesh stick, you have about 50 on a traditional. I’d say that is an easy point of superiority, especially for a stringer worth his salt.
What is Jake missing? A lot. But that’s ok! Here are the big complaints with traditional:
– In the rain, it bags out. This can be true of traditional, and it can be true of mesh, even waxed mesh, Ever played a game in cold rain with waxed mesh? Your pocket hardens right up. It’s science. How is that an advantage? Stretch your leathers, break in your pocket, and a traditional set up could actually be better in the rain. If you get your leathers from Chris Tiernan, they are already stretched AND waterproofed. I’d actually say they are better in the rain than mesh.
– It takes maintenance. It sure does! But if you’re one of those guys who is constantly messing with their stick, why is this a concern? If you can string your own pants off, don’t you want to use your skills? Nothing wrong with a little maintenance.
– It takes time to break in. This is just true. It’s part of life. Nice things take time to make nice. Put in the work, you’ll be rewarded.
– When your head breaks, it’s done. Not true! Check out the Tear Drop Top String and keep your pocket alive for MUCH longer!
It’s fine not to know about traditional, and why it’s so awesome. It’s what we’re here for.
Ok, enough from me. Answer the question below and settle this once and for all:
How Do You Feel About Traditional?
Lacrosse Stringing Supplies – Lax Room
American Themed Shooting Strings – (Cotton) American Themed Shooting Strings – (Cotton)
American Themed Shooting Strings are an all cotton, responsive shooter with compressed ends for easy stringing. Lax Room Labs have woven an all cotton shooter, enhanced by industry feedback, providing the feel and shot preference for the highest level of play. For an all cotton, American themed enthusiast, Lax Room American Themed Shooting Strings hit the… American Themed Shooting Strings are an all cotton, responsive…
How to String a Lacrosse Head – Blog
With so many different knots, ties, holes and loops, even some veteran lacrosse players are too intimidated to restring their own lacrosse heads. But despite the seemingly complicated process, it’s actually not as hard as you might think to string it yourself.
All it takes are a few easy steps, the right tools and little practice. Before you know it, you’ll be back on the field with a freshly strung lacrosse stick adjusted perfectly to your own preference.
Keep in mind that there are several different stringing styles out there, all with their own pros and cons. We’re teaching you one of the more basic stringing techniques. Once you get it down, try experimenting with different methods until you find the right one for you.A Little Lacrosse Lingo
If you’re just learning your way around a lacrosse stick, let’s go over a few basic parts that you’ll need to know before restringing.
Head: Attached to the top of the lacrosse stick, this is a typically a plastic, molded piece that the strings lace into.
Scoop: The flattened area at the top of the lacrosse head. This is where players can scoop up the ball, and where part of the mesh is attached.
Top Head: The top section of the lacrosse head, where the scoop is located
Sidewalls: The sides of the lacrosse head with several holes for the strings
Mesh: This is the netted material that’s attached to the inside of the lacrosse head
Pocket: This is sagging area inside of the mesh where the lacrosse ball will be caught
Shooter Strings: These are the strings used to attach the mesh to the head. They also help with ball control.
2 Shooter Strings at 30”–33” each
1 “Nine-Diamond Row” Mesh
Unstrung Lacrosse HeadStringing Your Lacrosse Top Head
There are two important parts of stringing a lacrosse head—the top head and the sidewalls. First, we’ll go through tying a lacrosse top head using the 9-Diamond Topstring method.
- Once you’ve acquired all of the correct materials, take your mesh and fold down the top row, called the “nine diamond row,” over the row just underneath it.
- Take one shooter string and tie a large knot at one end. With the head facing away from you, pull the unknotted end through the hole on the far-right bottom of the lacrosse head while also pulling it through the farthest right mesh hole. Pull the shooter string all the way through until the knot catches the hole.
- Next, go back through the same head hole, but in the opposite direction. As you do this, ensure you’re leaving enough slack so the shooter string creates a loop.
- Pull the string through that loop, and then back into the top head hole. Pull the string tightly so the mesh is snug with the head.
- Next, pull the end of the string through the first hole at the top of the head and then pull through the next mesh hole. As you pull the string back around through the mesh, create a loop with your fingers. Pull the string through the loop as you tighten the string.
- Skip the third mesh and top head hole
- Repeat Step 4
- Skip the middle mesh hole, but ensure it’s lined up to the center of the head
- Repeat Step 4, but skip stringing the sixth and eighth mesh hole.
- Pull the string tightly out of the top head hole that lines up with the knot hole on the opposite side. Loop it around like you did on the opposite side and tie it off.
Stringing The Sidewalls
Now that the top head is ready-to-go, it’s time to lace up the sidewalls.
- Take your second shooter string, tie a knot at one end, and pull it all the way through the same head hole as one of your top string knots.
- Skipping the first hole, pull the string through the outside of the sidewall. This allows the string to start wrapping around the sidewall itself.
- Find the top mesh hole that makes up a 10-diamond row. Pull the string from the opposite side of the mesh and pull it towards you.
- This then creates a small string loop between the mesh and the sidewall. Pull the end of the string through the newly created loop and pull it tight.
- Repeat this process as necessary, using only the 10-diamond holes, until you’re parallel to the top of the pocket. NOTE: Many people skip sidewall holes depending on how loose or tight they prefer their mesh, or how the mesh lines up with the holes. However, you should never skip a mesh hole.
- To best catch lacrosse balls at high speeds, the mesh that creates the pocket should have less tension than other areas. To create less tension, the technique differs while stringing along the pocket and goes as follows:Pull the string through the mesh first and then pull it through the sidewall. Once it’s tight, go back to the “old” method by pulling the string through the sidewall first and then the mesh before pulling through the loop and pulling tight.
- Repeat Step Six until you’ve reached the bottom of the pocket.
- At this point, you’ve likely reached the bottom of the head. If not, use either method depending on your own tightness preference until you only have one or two sidewall holes left.
- To finish the sidewall, pull the string through the back of the mesh, then push it from the inside out through the sidewall hole. Pull the string tight, tie it off and cut any remaining string.
- Repeat the process on the other side. NOTE: Ensure you’re making the exact same knots, loops, etc. in the exact same place on the opposite side. Otherwise, the mesh will be crooked.
And there you have it! It sounds like a lot of complicated steps, but after practicing them a few times, it’ll be second nature. Soon, you’ll be playing—and stringing—like a pro.
Learn How to String a Lacrosse Head Correctly
Learning correct lacrosse stringing is an integral part of your development as a player. It allows you to customize your stick’s performance to suit how you play and your specific position.
There are several different types of lacrosse stringing, but in this guide, we’ll focus on how to string a traditional lacrosse head with a mid pocket. Once you’re confident with that, you can move on to more specific styles of stringing and restring lacrosse sticks as needed.
How long does it take to string a lacrosse head?
It varies by person, depending on how long you’ve been doing it, and how good you are at the precise movements and adjustments needed.
Assuming you’re a beginner who hasn’t got a clue about how to string a lacrosse head we’d estimate that you’ll be able to finish the task in 30- 45 minutes once you’ve followed all the steps in this guide. And you’ll undoubtedly improve on that with practice.
Be patient. While you’re learning, getting the technique correct is much more important than finishing the job quickly.
Materials and equipment
Before getting started with this guide, you’ll need to make sure you have all of the following:
1. Lacrosse stick with an unstrung head (obviously!)
2. Lacrosse strings (there are a few types of lacrosse string you will need)
- One lacrosse top string, around 36 inches long
- Two lacrosse sidewall strings, each about 30 inches long
- One lacrosse bottom string, approximately 8 inches long
- Three shooting strings
3. One piece of 10 diamond mesh
4. Scissors, to cut off the excess string
5. A lighter, to melt the ends of cut strings and prevent them from fraying
6. Needle nose pliers, to tighten the strings correctly
Preparing the mesh
Before you get to stringing your lacrosse head, you need to prepare the mesh. First, ensure you have your mesh oriented correctly. The top edge is the one with nine diamonds, and the bottom edge will have ten. (You may have heard of a 10 diamond top string, but 9 is more common, so we’ll go with that in this guide.)
You should also make sure that the rougher side of the mesh faces inwards; this assists with gripping the ball and adding power to your shots.
Now, stretch out the mesh to its full extent. You must do this before stringing; otherwise, the mesh will stretch further after you string it, and your lacing may sag in certain areas. If you’re using a hard mesh, you might find that running it under hot water while you’re stretching it out makes it easier to manipulate.
Once you’ve stretched the mesh, fold over the top row of nine diamonds so that the holes match up precisely with the second row of diamonds beneath. Now you’re ready to start stringing.
To properly string lacrosse heads, there are a few general tips you should keep in mind:
- Your strings should always be as tight as possible. Use your pliers to ensure maximum tightness at each stage. You don’t want your lacing to come loose or undone during a game.
- Symmetry is important. The diamonds, lacrosse strings, and knots should all line up as accurately as possible to ensure your stick doesn’t have any bias towards the left or right. You want your passes and shots to fly straight.
- Working out the best pocket placement for your playing style is essential. In this guide, we’re going to show you a mid pocket style, but as you gain experience in how to string a lacrosse head, you’ll be able to adapt this. We’ve given a few tips on adjustments at the end of the guide.
How to string a lacrosse head top string
We’ll start at the top. Double-check that your mesh is the right way round – rough side towards the inside of the pocket. Now take your top string and follow these steps:
- Work from left to right, tying knots to keep each of the double rows of diamonds tightly connected to the top row of holes in the head.
- Maintain an even tension as you work. You don’t want one side to be tighter than the other, as this will cause instability and inaccuracy in your shots and passes.
- Once you’ve completed the full row of knots, check that your mesh is aligned symmetrically with the head and that there’s no stretching to either side.
How to string a lacrosse head sidewall
When you’re happy that your top string is secure, it’s time to move on to the sidewalls. We recommend that you start at the top of the lacrosse stick head and work your way down. Rather than stringing one sidewall at a time, it’s best to do both at once, tying the first knot on one side, then switching to the other, and continuing down the head.
Stringing both sides at once ensures that your stringing remains consistent, which is essential for the creation of the pocket. It will also allow you to match the tension on both sides and check it as you go, rather than having to completely restring one side if you find it doesn’t match at the end of the process.
As you work your way down, you should see the shape of the pocket start to form.
How to string a mid pocket
To achieve the perfect mid pocket, you need to pay attention while stringing your sidewalls and your bottom string. Different tensions or spacing in each of these areas will create a separate pocket.
At the top of the head, you need to ensure you pull the first couple of rows of diamonds tight, so the mesh is flatter at this point. If the first rows are tight, a well-shaped channel allows the ball to be released smoothly from your stick. Further down, you want the diamonds to be more bunched up, which loosens the mesh and forms a pocket midway down the head.
To break in your pocket, wet your mesh with warm water, and use either your fist or a lacrosse ball to form the pocket, just as the ball would typically sit. Some players even secure the ball in the pocket with a stick jammed through the mesh below the sidewalls. You can leave it for a few hours, or overnight, to shape the pocket.
You also need to check that your pocket depth is legal. Put a lacrosse ball into the pocket, and as long as there’s no space above the ball when viewed side-on, you’re good to go. If not, you’ll need to make adjustments. Otherwise, you’re risking a penalty. If your pocket is too deep, you’ll be able to fix this when you move on to the bottom string.
How to string a lacrosse head bottom string
The bottom string has a significant effect on the head’s overall performance, and small adjustments can make quite a difference in how the ball is caught and released.
In terms of technique, stringing the bottom string is similar to the top string. You’ll weave between the bottom row of diamonds and the holes at the edge of the head. However, unlike the top string, where you want to keep maximum tension, you can vary the tension a little to get the desired pocket shape and size.
We’ll discuss the effects of different bottom string tensions further under “Adjustments” below.
How to string the shooting strings
Unlike the other types of string, the shooting strings weave together through the mesh, and the most popular method is a straight weave. Different types include rolled, nylon laced, or even no shooting strings at all.
Depending on your pocket and channel’s exact shape, you’ll want to experiment with the placement of your shooting strings to see which gives the best ball performance. As a general rule, though, you should have the closest string to the ball looser than the other strings, which should tighten as you work up towards the scoop.
It’s important to remember that NCAA and NFHS rules prohibit any shooting strings which are more than four inches from the top of the scoop. Make sure your shooting strings are within this margin, or you’ll risk an equipment penalty.
Trimming the strings
Once you’ve finished stringing your lacrosse head, you’ll invariably find that you have a lot of extra lengths of string. To tidy these up, use your scissors to cut off the remaining length, leaving an inch or two if you need to make slight adjustments later. Carefully burn the cut ends with your lighter to ensure that the ends don’t fray.
With your stick laced and ready to go, you’ll want to put in some time testing it out, so you can ensure the pocket position and depth, and the placement of the shooting strings, works for you. Use a lacrosse rebounder like this if you’re training alone, or pair up with another player to practice shots, passes, and catches. Take note of anything that doesn’t feel quite right, so you know what adjustments to make later.
Once you’re confident you know how to string a lacrosse head in a basic style and test it out, you may want to make a few adjustments to suit your unique playing style better.
- If you need to increase the amount of whip you’re getting, loosen up the bottom string. The opposite applies if you need to adjust for less whip.
- If you have a tight channel, you may find the ball whips down too much. You can usually fix this by loosening or even removing one or more of the shooting strings.
- Replacing cotton shooting strings with nylon can help add more whip.
Hopefully, our stringing lacrosse head guide has helped you better understand not just how to string a lacrosse head, but how the different elements affect your overall stick performance, and ultimately your game. Of course, as we’ve said, every player’s style is unique, so there’s no substitute for trying out some of these tips for yourself to discover what setup works best for you.
CoolStick Lacrosse > Stick Builder > Send in your head
Step 1: Pick Head
Step 2: Pick Left Sidewall
Step 3: Pick Right Sidewall
Step 4: Pick Left 1st String
Step 5: Pick Right 1st String
Step 6: Pick Left Connector Leather
Step 7: Pick Right Connector Leather
Step 8: Pick Attack Shooting String
Step 9: Pick Shooting String
Step 10: Pick Hybrid Mesh
Global Lacrosse Stringing Kits Market Size, Analytical Overview, Future Trends, Historical Analysis, Growth Factors and Forecast to 2027
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Market Segment by Type,
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Overlock thread tension adjustment – Sewing World
Author: Pamela Bask. Taken with minor changes from here: http://www.season.ru/kachat/1_oborudovanie/
Explains how to adjust the thread tension in order to gain experience in sewing no matter what skill level you are.
Modern multifunctional overlocks offer a wide variety of stitches to choose from, but all of them will rarely be used unless you know the basics of the machine and, more importantly, set the correct looper and needle thread tension.
Most of us have always been taught never to adjust the sewing machine ourselves, so it is understandable that we feel hesitant and unsure if we need to change three or four settings in an overlock.
However, once you can identify the parts of the overlock stitch, you will realize that with this knowledge it is much easier to understand which overlock thread tension needs to be adjusted if the stitch looks unbalanced and you can successfully overlock any fabric.
Anatomy of overlock stitches
The 4-thread overlock stitch is made up of two needle threads and two looper threads. While it is not necessary to use multi-colored threads in your overlock to see the stitch components, you could still use this technique and find it useful.
The illustration on the left shows the top and bottom of the fabric with overlock stitching. On the top (which is turned upwards during sewing), you will see two rows of stitches forming parallel lines in relation to the edge of the fabric.They are made with needles. Loops of thread that run more or less horizontally are formed by the upper looper. On the underside of the fabric is the lower looper thread, which is attached with almost invisible stitches from the needles.
What resembles a row of direct sewing along the inner edge of a stitch is in fact an example of the formation of hidden (invisible) ends of the loops.
Stitch length and stitch width
The length and width settings affect overlock stitches.Select these values and then adjust the thread tension to suit them. For basic overlock and topstitch work, I choose a versatile length and width combination that will work on most fabrics with minimal adjustments.
As with a conventional sewing machine, a stitch length of 2.5 – 3 mm works well for most fabrics. Shorter or longer stitches can cause puckering or puckering.
The set stitch width on the overlock is actually the setting width of the cut line: the value set on the machine controls the distance from the trimming knife to the needles and, in turn, the amount of fabric that remains inside the overlock stitch.The widest cut leaves most of the fabric inside the stitch. I rarely use narrow slice widths because the tension setting required for a balanced stitch is often so high that there is a problem of thread breakage. Narrow cut widths can be used (but are not always necessary) for web and other specific stitches.
Adjusting the thread tension for balanced stitches
Avoid the headache of adjusting the tension by keeping a record of the settings you prefer to use for each combination of fabrics, threads and stitches you use frequently.
Overlock tension is generally considered difficult to set correctly, but on newer machines the adjustment is easy enough if you start with the correct threading of the overlock and the correct cutting width. My advice is to adjust the tension first by changing the integer values on the tension adjustment dial, and then, if necessary, adjust more precisely by setting half the values. Older machines will take a little more tinkering, but by keeping a record of the adjustment settings for different fabrics, you will be able to adjust the tension quickly and accurately (the sample of this shape shown above will be useful for saving settings).
I have developed a fast and error-free method for adjusting the overlock thread tension. Start with a test piece made from two layers of fabric and sew one edge onto the overlock, cutting at least a narrow strip of fabric. Now evaluate each part of the stitch separately by following these instructions:
- Start at the left buttonhole. If the fabric wrinkles along the stitching, loosen the needle thread tension one at a time until the wrinkle disappears. When it becomes obvious that there is no wrinkling, open the fabric, pulling well, and look at the seam.If you see a ladder of stitches in a stitch, increase the tension, sewing one step at a time. The left needle thread is the thread that connects the loops together, so the tension should be correct.
- Next, set the right needle thread tension. It is quite simple – set the adjuster to the same value as the left needle thread adjuster, or one step lower. You have already determined the difference between the left and right needle thread tension settings once for the same fabric, this difference will be used for all double-needle overlock stitches.
- Finally, determine where the looper threads are intertwined. They should be woven exactly at the edge of the fabric and the seam should be smooth and flat between the stitches. If the buttonholes protrude from the edge of the fabric, you will need to increase the looper thread tension. If only one looper seems to protrude, increase the tension on only that looper. If the looper stitches are intertwined on one side of the fabric, the tension is likely too tight on that side.Loosen the tension in steps until the stitching is formed at the edge of the fabric. You may need to decrease the tension on one side and increase the tension on the other side, in which case start by loosening the tension as much as possible.
If you adjust your overlock in the order I recommend, you should have no problem overlocking any fabric that comes under the presser foot.
Look closely at your overlock stitching to identify problems and relate them to current settings (such as slice width).Most of the disadvantages can be eliminated by slightly turning one or two adjusting discs.
Fabric cut width is too narrow
Buttonholes protrude over the edge of the fabric when too much of the fabric has been cut from the seam allowance.
Needle thread tension
Crease: loosen the tension on needle thread
Step ladder on the turn along the seam line: increase the needle thread tension
Looper thread tension
Loops roll to one side: loosen the looper tension on that side.(In this case, the loops will move towards the top side, so the tension in the upper looper should be reduced.)
Wrong weaving of threads
Uneven buttonhole at the edge of the fabric: check that each thread is threaded correctly into the tension disc, otherwise no adjustment will help create a balanced stitch
How to tighten the alternator belt on the VAZ 2115, 21110 correctly?
The generator belt, despite its simplicity and apparent primitiveness, plays a very important role, connecting the generator and the engine crankshaft, which actually drives the electric generator.Very often there are situations when, due to a poor tension on the alternator belt, the quality of charging the battery deteriorates.
With an increase in the load on the power grid, for example, when several electrical consumers are turned on at once (headlights, stove, radio tape recorder, etc.), a characteristic whistle may occur, which is emitted by the alternator belt. A belt that is stretched or too loose can slip on the pulleys, which also leads to sags in tension. This sound most often indicates that moisture has entered the belt or that the alternator belt needs to be tightened.
How long does it take to change the VAZ alternator belt?
Replacement of the alternator belt is regulated by the manufacturer every 15,000 km, however, if during inspection you find delamination, notches or cracks on the belt surface, replace the belt immediately. It is important to understand that over-tensioning the alternator belt is also highly undesirable, as this can lead to a reduction in the life of the alternator bearings.
Signs of a loose alternator belt tension?
As a rule, a weak tension, as mentioned above, manifests itself in the form of a whistle and voltage “dips”, the headlights can burn very dimly or blink, and a red “battery” icon located on the dashboard may also be indicated.
What should be the tension of the VAZ 2115 alternator belt?
The tension should be optimal, namely, when, when pressed with a force of 10 kg, the belt deflects 10-15 mm with the 37.3701 generator, and 6-10 mm with the 9402.3701 generator.
How to tighten the VAZ 2115 alternator belt?
It is not difficult to adjust the VAZ 2115 alternator belt, it is only important to understand how this is done correctly. To adjust the alternator belt on VAZ cars, you only need two keys, on: “17” and “19”, and the procedure itself will take from 10 to 20 minutes.It should be noted that different power units can be installed on VAZ 2114, 2113, 2115, for each modification the process of tensioning the alternator belt may differ.
Tensioning the alternator belt on a VAZ 2110 engine with a volume of 1.5 liters.
- First you need to loosen the upper and lower fasteners.
- Adjust the belt tension using the adjusting screw – clockwise – tighten the belt, counterclockwise – loosen.
- Having set the required tension, tighten the alternator fasteners and check the tension.
On 1.6 liter engines, in addition to keys, you will need a small assembly or pry bar. The principle is the same, loosen the alternator mounting bolts, then using a pry bar, move the alternator away from the engine or towards the engine depending on whether you need to tighten or loosen the alternator belt. When finished, fix the fixing screws and check the belt tension.
We recommend watching a video about how to tighten the generator belt on a VAZ 2114 with your own hands.Text: vaz-remont.ru & nbsp
Replacing the timing belt in VoronezhThe timing belt is a multi-layer toothed belt made of extra strong synthetic materials.
It is he who provides the synchronization of the camshaft and crankshaft of a car engine. The timing chain performs the same function, with the only difference that it is made of metal and lasts much longer.
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As a rule, the timing belt is changed after 80,000 km.But in large cities, cars sit idle for a long time in traffic jams. As a result, the mileage does not wind up, but the engine runs, the timing parts wear out. Add to this seasonal temperature changes: in winter, when a cold engine is first started, it turns the thickened oil – this, in turn, significantly increases the load on the timing belt and the rollers that rotate it. All this leads to the breakage of the belt and the destruction of the timing rollers.
The service life and the need to replace the timing belt depend on the following factors:
- Correct installation and condition of idler and loose rollers,
- The presence of oil leaks from the crankshaft and camshaft oil seals,
- Visual damage and signs of wear on the timing belt.
Consequences of a broken timing belt
Most modern car engines have both pistons and valves in one block. The timing belt prevents them from “meeting”. If the timing belt suddenly breaks, the piston meets the valve, hits it with terrible force and bends it. All this in 99% of cases leads to a major overhaul of the car engine. And this is several times more expensive than a conventional timing belt replacement.
Difficulties when replacing the timing belt
To replace the timing belt in modern cars, you need a special tool: a camshaft lock, a torque wrench and a lift.It is very important to properly tighten the belt. Too little tension will cause it to sag and the belt may jump, which will lead to the above consequences. A belt that is too tight can break during operation.
Recommendations for replacing the timing belt
If your car’s water pump / pump is failing, then we recommend performing two procedures at once: replacing the timing belt and replacing the water pump (pump). When changing the belt, the pump becomes accessible and, accordingly, you do not have to pay twice for the same job.Of course, when replacing the timing belt, it is worth changing all the timing rollers. And also pay attention to oil seal leaks. The ingress of oil on the timing belt leads to its corrosion, which dramatically reduces its service life.
The cost of replacing the timing belt (timing chain) largely depends on the car model, which affects the labor intensity of the work. You can find out the price of replacing the timing belt specifically for your car from the WHEEL service specialists. Our qualified craftsmen use specialized equipment in their work, which makes it possible to replace the timing belt with the highest quality.
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four. changed the cylinder head gasket. found that instead of a damper is .. a second tensioner! collective farm foreva of course.
Such a procedure is also waiting for me (I’ve been passing it for a month already.There is no desire to do, she killed me with her whims.
Thanks for the detailed review. Like
Strembicky Orlan wrote
SUCH PARTS CHANGE FOR NEW !!!
Zucker Tankman wrote
You are a great fellow! Thank you for these videos!
I drove 198,000 km in my polo 6r 1.6 tdi without changing the belt.
Falcon Ostryagin wrote
Guys, new cars have a very small resource of the machine itself, buy cars at least from 1800 to 2011, I have no problems in 2002.
Good day to all. Guys, I have an Opel Vectra C with a mileage of 170,000 thousand, so I’m going to change the clutch disc and, accordingly, the basket. There was a question, should I change the release bearing? Immediately I want to make a reservation, I’m not a master and not an expert in Opel repair, because I’m asking. Thanks.
Hello, don’t try to paste another valve head 8, that is, replace
In the video, we change the bearing 203 and forget.Desirable imported
Sten wrote (a)
There is a way to control the belt tension, apparently borrowed from the army. 🙂 Who served, he knows how to check from the soldiers so that the belt is not too loose (forgetting to explain, that the belt serves as a bandage for the abdominal muscles and helps to carry an increased load). The belt is twisted, as it were, and if it turns out to be twisted more than one turn, then it is too loose. They also check multi-ribbed (wide) drive belts for vehicle units.Taking the belt with your fingers on the ribs in the place where the greatest distance between the pulleys is, they try to twist it – it should turn 1 turn or a little more. Another way – taking the planes, you need to pull in the perpendicular direction in one direction or the other. In this case, the belt should not be excessively stretched, should deviate by half a centimeter or a little more, but there should not be any slack or jerks, the belt should be elastic along the entire path of movement.
Well done, finalized the manufacturer’s bloopers.)
do not do as the author of this video! adjustment of the alternator belt is done by screwing in a bolt through the ear of the alternator after loosening the tension roller bolts
Vasilina Pruskovtsova wrote (a)
from which one this two-piece is not, maybe the belt and rollers will suit us)
Vardan wrote (a)
Thanks for the review of the pump, I just now have it … I’ll see the state when replacing the timing belt with 150,000, it was set when replacing it with 100,000.As of the state, I’ll write it down!
My vibration goes all over the corpus at a speed of 40-55 straight kilometer to kilometer. It doesn’t matter which transmission or not … c3 picasso
Leave a comment90,000 6 signs that indicate an early replacement
Replacing the timing belt is one of the key vehicle maintenance procedures. The process takes only 30 minutes, and its implementation serves as a guarantor of the smooth operation of the engine.
The main thing is to check the status of this working node in a timely manner, otherwise serious problems may arise.
Timing belt, tensioner pulley
Why check the timing belt
The operating time of the timing belt in modern cars is from 50,000 to 100,000 km. When this mark is crossed, a new belt has to be installed, as well as tension rollers, pump and pulleys.
The replacement time is precisely regulated in the instructions for the vehicle by each manufacturer.But you should not rely entirely on official instructions, since in reality the part may wear out earlier than the prescribed period. Auto mechanics recommend checking the part every 40,000-45,000 kilometers.
The timing belt is an element that synchronizes the operation of the pistons and the ignition system. It is tensioned on the pulleys of 2 shafts – a camshaft and a crankshaft. At the same time, it simultaneously drives the water pump. A special roller is used to apply the required tension to the rubber and nylon toothed belt.
If the technical condition of the belt is not monitored in advance, it will break. This will cause the intake and exhaust valves to collide with the pistons. This is a breakdown, after which expensive repairs will be required.
Cracked timing belt
How to check the timing belt. Self-Test Steps
Access to the unit is difficult – the belt is hidden behind different covers. For revision, it is often necessary to partially disassemble the engine.Further, in addition to the belt itself, it is important to check the rollers. If it gets jammed, the belt will break again.
The step-by-step process for checking the timing belt looks like this:
- Removing the engine protection and plastic screen for access to the crankshaft, camshaft, belt, rollers, pump;
- Unscrewing the bolts from the protection and its removal;
- element inspection – it is necessary to check the timing belt on both sides for cracks and other damage;
- checking the belt tension – the crankshaft must be rotated 1-2 turns in different directions, then turn the belt between the camshaft and the crankshaft with the teeth towards you, a sign of normal tension is the rotation angle of 90 degrees.
The tension can be easily adjusted by changing the position of the tension roller. If scuffs, scratches or cracks are found, the belt should be replaced to avoid serious damage.
Checking the timing belt tension
What signs indicate a timing belt replacement: 6 signs
Visible cracks and tears are not the only signs of possible breakage. There are a number of other symptoms:
- Age.The service life of the part is determined by the vehicle mileage. But the age of the part also matters. If the car has stood idle for a long time, has not gained mileage, the belt still loses its original properties of strength and elasticity. On average, after 5 years, the part is covered with cracks, regardless of the number of kilometers traveled.
- Power drop or uncertain start of the internal combustion engine. A worn out or weakly tensioned timing belt is capable of jumping over several teeth on the pulley.In this case, the function of the ignition system is disrupted – the fuel mixture ignites earlier or later than the prescribed time. At the same time, the driver feels that there are dips in the thrust, the internal combustion engine starts up uncertainly, and vibrations occur.
- Black smoke. With a faulty timing belt, the mixture in the engine does not completely burn out, which leads to the destruction or melting of the catalyst. In this case, a fraction of the unused fuel enters the exhaust system, as a result of which the permissible temperature is exceeded.An obvious symptom of this situation is that the exhaust is accompanied by pops, the color of the smoke from the pipe is black.
- Extraneous sounds in the motor. If the timing belt is cracked or frayed, you can hear a characteristic ticking, clicks and other overtones from under the casing of the unit. Typically, the frequency of the sounds increases with increasing engine speed.
- Leakage in the drive. If oil or coolant leaks, obviously there is trouble with the gas distribution mechanism.When the crankshaft oil seal wears out, some of the lubricant gets onto the belt. If the joints have lost their tightness, the belt is covered with antifreeze. As a result, the knot deteriorates faster and jumps over the teeth of the pulleys.
- Idle rotation of the starter. If, during idle operation, the combustible mixture is not picked up and ignited in the cylinders, then there is no compression. This indicates mechanical damage to the valves, which bent from meeting the pistons. This is the worst consequence of a broken timing belt.We’ll have to change the engine or pay for an expensive restoration.
Checking the timing belt is a simple but important operation. This prevents major breakdowns. Auto mechanics recommend keeping track of vehicle mileage, age and external condition of the part.
String tension – Gandicap
String tension is the last part in the racket-string-tension force. Also, this is not a completely understandable moment for most novice players.To begin with, there are two points to remember: a weaker racquet tension gives more power on impact, a tighter tension provides better control. This is a fairly general rule that assumes a certain level of player skill (especially in terms of control). Beginners may need control, but stretching is not the answer. These players require a relatively soft string surface, which is provided with a weaker tension, to dampen vibration when hitting repeatedly off-center of the playing surface of the racket.Advanced players who have a quick swing and are capable of hitting the ball hard usually need more control, which is provided by a tighter stretch. As with all rules, there are exceptions to this, but these rules are applicable to most players.
Each racket has its own recommended tension. This range is determined by the manufacturer as a result of extensive and exhaustive testing by real players. If the player does not have certain preferences and goals when stretching, then he should start with an average effort from the manufacturer’s recommended range, and then, if necessary, change it, adapting to his needs.
As mentioned above, players who want more power from the racquet should try to loosen the tension a little. The string surface will bend more strongly than the ball, giving it more energy. It should also not be forgotten that a stretch well below the recommended range will make your racket a butterfly net.
To achieve better control, the string surface should be tighter, with less deflection of the string surface and greater deformation of the ball, while the racket will transfer less energy to the ball than with a weaker tension.This means that the ball will not fly as far as you hit it. Beginners who frequently hit the ball in an arbitrary direction will not gain any advantage by increasing the tension, however, more advanced players who take many long shots will be able to reduce the depth of their shots without changing the swing. It is also generally known that the best torsion is obtained at a higher tension.
Hand Injury, Tennis Elbow
A weaker tension gives a softer string surface and increases the playing spot, while reducing the number of shocks and vibrations transmitted to the arm and elbow.If you have a problem with your elbow, it is recommended to use softer strings, and at the same time slightly reduce the force.
Strengthening the tension when changing the racket
Many players fixate on a certain tension force, not taking into account the fact that when changing the size of the head, brand, it is necessary to accordingly make adjustments for the tension force. For example, you pulled a 55 lbs racket, with the recommended range of 55-65 lbs, and a new racket has a recommended range of 50-60, then you should initially pull a new 50lbs racket.
Badminton Inventory – Expert Advice
The popular magazine “Time Out” has a spread of one of its February issues devoted to badminton. In particular, it contains an interview with the six-time Russian champion Stanislav Pukhov, in which he shares advice on choosing sports equipment.
Badminton Racket Selection
I believe that rackets for professionals and amateurs should, first of all, differ in price and, as a result, in quality.However, I think that many qualities that professionals appreciate – the rigidity of the racket, its flexibility, the quality of the shuttle’s rebound, may simply not be appreciated by an amateur at the initial level. Why pay more for something you don’t use. Everyone starts with simple rackets and moves on to better ones as skill develops.
If we talk about the specific characteristics of the rackets, then first of all I would not advise those who like to use heavy rackets – that is, weighing one hundred grams or more.Better to limit yourself to standard light and medium rackets, weighing up to ninety-two grams. The fact is that from intensive work with a heavy racket, an amateur can seriously hurt his shoulder. You have to be physically ready for such a racket. But if you have played with heavy rackets before and have not experienced problems, you can continue to use them – then everything is in order with physical training. I would also not recommend buying metal rackets for playing sports badminton – their rim is easily deformed from impacts and pulling force, which makes the racket not quite suitable for sports play.Better to turn your attention to graphite carbon fiber rackets, albeit an entry-level one.
Racket Strings and Tension
The strings of professionals and amateurs are also noticeably different: professionals try to play very thin – the thinner the better – the so-called tournament strings. Such a string allows you to feel the shuttlecock very well, but at the same time, of course, it breaks very quickly. Professionals appreciate a thin string for the ability to beat the mix more powerfully, to play more accurately and subtly on the grid, but this understanding comes already at a fairly high level of development of playing skills.An amateur who has not yet perfected his skill to this degree may well play with strings from the same leading manufacturers, but thicker and more reliable. By the way, professionals also use thick strings quite often – in training, so they are quite suitable for amateurs and will not noticeably affect the quality of the game. A thick string of a good manufacturer can easily hold out for an intensively playing amateur for a month, while a tournament string often breaks in one game, and sometimes more than once, so you have to use several rackets.
Well, and, of course, in order for the string to last longer, you need to try so that the shuttle does not fall into the zones near the rim – there are very vulnerable spots and usually even one such hit ends in breaking the string. As soon as the string breaks, you need to immediately cut the entire stretch with scissors in order to relieve the rim of the racket. Otherwise, uneven tension can create stresses in the racket and lead to hidden cracks. That is why the tension must always be changed completely, and not to make any inserts or “garters”, as some amateurs practice.Playing with a “tied” racket you are almost guaranteed to break it – with the next strong blow, it will simply crack in your hands.
However, even a whole, not torn stretch should be changed from time to time. The quality of the playing depends on the quality of the string tension. A racket with a good, tighter stretch will hit harder, and you will enjoy superior “pop” when playing strong shots like a mix. All of this, a slight stretch will not give, and you will lose most of the pleasure of the game.I would call a good one, say, a stretch with a force of 11×11 or 10.5×10.5 kilograms, that is, the vertical and horizontal strings are stretched with the same force. In order to get such a stretch, be sure to give the racket to a professional stringer – only he will be able to provide competent and controlled effort on the strings and will not spoil either them or the racket. Assessing when it’s time to change the tension can be quite simple – take a freshly tensioned racket and try to move the strings – it should be quite hard.When you start spreading the strings with your fingers effortlessly, it’s time to tug the racket.
Finishing the topic of stretching, I would like to draw your attention to the so-called “cambric” – plastic sleeves inserted into the rim of the racket through which the string is passed. They also need to be changed by all means – a well-stretched string gradually squeezes the outer part of the cambric, and begins to fray on the rim. You need to change the cambric after about ten racket constrictions. And in any case, when tightening, you need to ask the master to turn the cambric around the axis before starting work – so that the other part of them starts to wear out – so these bushings will last longer.
Racket handle windings
As for the handle windings, with all the variety of shapes, colors and quality, there are two fundamentally different types of winding – “terry” and “rubber”. If your hands are sweating a lot while playing, then you need to definitely make a choice in favor of “terry” winding. Of course, it will have to be changed more often than the “rubber” one, and in this sense your costs will increase, but on the other hand, when playing, the racket will not spin in your hand, which is very important. If the racket is not rigidly fixed in the hand, then the spread increases – the racket “walks” when hitting, and your shuttlecock randomly flies into the net or out.If your hand does not sweat very much, then you can use a “rubber” winding. It is necessary to change the winding when you feel that the contact between the racket and the hand has deteriorated – the handle began to slip a little on impact. Note that some players play with thick wrapping, and some try to make the handle as thin as possible. This moment depends entirely on your individual characteristics – try what is more convenient for you, and stop at this option. This parameter does not affect either strength or accuracy, the main thing here is the player’s comfortable sensations.
Finishing the topic of rackets, it is worth saying that usually professional badminton players play with one brand of rackets Yonex, Babolat, HEAD, Wilson, and others, but at the same time change the model from time to time. Of course, progress is going on, new materials and technical solutions appear, and over time, the inventory becomes more and more perfect. However, I would not advise chasing every new product – manufacturers have recently been quite vigorously throwing new models onto the market – often every six months or even more often.But I would not say that there is a fundamental difference between such closely spaced models. In addition, it is quite important to get used to a particular model, and while you get used to one racket for 3-4 months, the manufacturer will already “throw” another on the market and the process can be started over. Therefore, it is better not to participate in the model race so intensely. For example, having chosen a new model, I play it for at least two years, and only then I start thinking about moving to the next one.
And one more thing related to the development of racket technology – if you are an emotional person, a gambler, try not to throw your racket and knock it on the court in case of failure – cool modern rackets are quite fragile and can break from such overloads.If you really can’t hold back your emotions at all, it’s better to shout or stamp your feet, but take care of the racket. In principle, modern rackets do not require any other special care.
Another important sports equipment for playing badminton, one might say the face of our sport, is the shuttlecock. In principle, shuttlecocks can also be divided into two main classes – feather and plastic. Immediately, we note that all professional tournaments, both domestic and international, are played only with a feather shuttle – it has unique flight dynamics and excellent controllability, but this material is consumable and quite expensive.One game may well take a whole box of shuttlecocks – 12 pieces. And if the game turned out to be difficult, protracted, then not one. That is why many amateurs choose plastic shuttlecocks – one such shuttlecock can withstand several games, so it turns out not very expensive. Plastic shuttlecocks are available from all leading manufacturers of badminton equipment. I had to play with plastic shuttlecocks and I can state that they have now reached a very good quality. In principle, they can perform all the basic techniques at a good level.A cool player can even achieve almost the same flight as the “feather” due to the correct hitting technique. Although, of course, from the point of view of a professional, there are differences. As I already said, the main difference is in the better controllability of the feather shuttle – it can be effectively cut, twisted, which turns out to be much worse with plastic. Or, for example, if when playing on the net you hit the shuttlecock on the racket with its feathers, then you still have a chance to interrupt it to the other side, but if it is a plastic shuttlecock, it will most likely not “catch” with its skirt and slide off your racket …There are also a number of such differences, but all this affects only the game of professionals.
It should be noted that both professional and amateur shuttlecocks are produced in different speeds. For amateurs, they usually mark “fast”, “medium”, “slow”. The use of this or that speed depends on the conditions of the game. In general, we can say this – the denser the air (lower temperature, higher pressure and humidity), the worse the shuttle flies. Conversely, the drier, warmer, thinner, the faster the flight.In order to determine which shuttlecock to play, professionals conduct a special test. The player stands directly behind the back line of the court and sends the shuttlecock to the other side with a strong but low kick. A shuttle that fits the conditions must fall into the lineout at a distance of about half a meter to a meter from the back line on the side opposite to the player. In practice, amateurs usually play in some more or less constant conditions, so they choose the shuttle that suits them.
A rather important element of a badminton player’s outfit is footwear – you must definitely pay attention to it.For example, if I put on sneakers from the same manufacturer, made for badminton and tennis, then I just can’t play tennis. That is, there are also very noticeable differences. It is probably difficult to clearly distinguish some features, but in general this is the case – tennis sneakers are taller and less stable. Badminton players feel better on the court. In general, two parameters are very important for badminton sneakers – maximum grip on the court and stability under lateral loads.