What are the key aspects of lacrosse sidewall stringing. How does proper stringing affect performance. What materials and techniques are used in sidewall stringing. Where can players find quality stringing supplies.
Understanding Lacrosse Sidewall Stringing
Lacrosse sidewall stringing is a crucial aspect of preparing a lacrosse stick for optimal performance. It involves attaching the mesh or traditional pocket to the head of the lacrosse stick using specialized string or cord. The sidewall strings run along the sides of the head, connecting the pocket to the frame and influencing the stick’s throwing and catching characteristics.
Proper sidewall stringing can significantly impact a player’s game by affecting:
- Ball control and retention
- Shooting accuracy and power
- Passing precision
- Overall feel and responsiveness of the stick
Essential Materials for Sidewall Stringing
To string a lacrosse sidewall effectively, players need high-quality materials. The most crucial component is the sidewall string itself. Premium sidewall strings are typically made of durable nylon and come in various colors and styles.
Key features of quality lacrosse sidewall string include:
- Strength and durability to withstand intense gameplay
- Resistance to stretching and weather conditions
- Smooth texture for easy threading and knot-tying
- Variety of colors for customization and style
Many players opt for pre-cut lengths of sidewall string, such as the 10-yard (30-foot) sections offered by some suppliers. These pre-cut lengths are convenient and provide enough material to string multiple heads, depending on the position and style of play.
Techniques for Effective Sidewall Stringing
Mastering the art of sidewall stringing requires practice and attention to detail. Players and stringers employ various techniques to achieve the desired pocket shape, depth, and performance characteristics.
Common sidewall stringing techniques include:
- Basic sidewall knots (e.g., si-knot, box knot)
- Specialized knots for specific pocket styles
- Tension adjustment methods
- Pattern creation for customized pocket shapes
The choice of technique often depends on factors such as the player’s position, playing style, and personal preferences. Attackers might prefer a tighter, more controlled pocket, while defenders may opt for a deeper pocket for easier ball retention.
Customizing Your Lacrosse Stick with Sidewall Stringing
One of the most appealing aspects of lacrosse sidewall stringing is the ability to customize your stick to suit your individual needs and style. By experimenting with different stringing patterns, knot placements, and string tensions, players can fine-tune their stick’s performance characteristics.
Customization options include:
- Adjusting pocket depth and shape
- Modifying the stick’s release point
- Altering the amount of whip or hold
- Creating a unique aesthetic with color combinations
Many players find that learning to string their own sidewalls not only saves money but also gives them a deeper understanding of their equipment and how it affects their game.
Sidewall Stringing for Different Lacrosse Positions
The requirements for sidewall stringing can vary significantly depending on a player’s position on the field. Each position has unique demands that influence the ideal stringing setup.
Attack Players
Attackers often prefer:
- Tighter pockets for quick, accurate releases
- Medium to high whip for powerful shots
- Strategically placed hold points for ball control during dodges
Midfielders
Midfielders typically seek a balance:
- Versatile pocket depth for both offense and defense
- Moderate whip for all-around performance
- Good hold for ground ball pickups
Defenders
Defenders often opt for:
- Deeper pockets for easier catches and ball retention
- Lower whip for quicker releases on clears
- Durability to withstand aggressive checks
Goalies
Goalies require specialized stringing:
- Very deep pockets to absorb high-speed shots
- Minimal whip for quick outlet passes
- Extra durability to handle repeated impact
Maintaining Your Sidewall Strings
Proper maintenance of your lacrosse stick’s sidewall strings is essential for consistent performance and longevity. Regular care can prevent premature wear and ensure your stick remains game-ready.
Tips for maintaining sidewall strings:
- Inspect strings regularly for signs of wear or fraying
- Clean strings after playing in muddy or wet conditions
- Avoid extreme temperature exposure, which can affect string tension
- Replace strings when they show significant wear or lose elasticity
- Consider re-stringing your stick before each new season
By taking good care of your sidewall strings, you can extend the life of your lacrosse stick and maintain optimal performance throughout the season.
Where to Find Quality Lacrosse Sidewall Stringing Supplies
Finding high-quality sidewall stringing supplies is crucial for achieving the best results. Players have several options when it comes to sourcing these materials.
Popular sources for lacrosse stringing supplies include:
- Specialized lacrosse retailers (online and brick-and-mortar)
- Sporting goods stores with dedicated lacrosse sections
- Online marketplaces like SidelineSwap
- Direct from manufacturers or authorized dealers
When purchasing sidewall string, consider factors such as:
- String material and quality
- Length options (pre-cut vs. bulk spools)
- Color selection for personalization
- Price and value for money
- Brand reputation and customer reviews
Many players find that buying pre-cut lengths, such as 10-yard sections, offers a good balance between convenience and cost-effectiveness. These lengths typically provide enough material to string multiple heads, allowing for experimentation and refinement of techniques.
Advanced Sidewall Stringing Techniques for Experienced Players
As players become more proficient in basic sidewall stringing, they often seek to explore advanced techniques to further optimize their stick’s performance. These advanced methods can provide finer control over pocket characteristics and allow for highly specialized setups.
Some advanced sidewall stringing techniques include:
- Multi-color patterns for enhanced visual appeal and functionality
- Hybrid stringing combining elements of mesh and traditional pockets
- Experimental knot types for unique pocket shapes and ball release
- Custom tension systems for precise control over different pocket sections
- Position-specific advanced patterns (e.g., faceoff specialist setups)
Mastering these advanced techniques often requires significant practice and experimentation. Many experienced players enjoy the challenge of developing their own unique stringing styles and sharing their innovations with the lacrosse community.
The Role of Technology in Modern Sidewall Stringing
As lacrosse equipment continues to evolve, technology is playing an increasingly important role in sidewall stringing. Innovations in materials science and manufacturing processes are leading to new string types and head designs that impact stringing techniques.
Technological advancements in sidewall stringing include:
- High-performance synthetic materials for increased durability and consistency
- Computer-aided design for optimized string hole placement on heads
- 3D-printed tools and jigs for precise and repeatable stringing
- Online platforms and apps for sharing and analyzing stringing patterns
- Virtual reality training systems for practicing stringing techniques
These technological developments are opening up new possibilities for both amateur and professional players to refine their equipment and improve their game.
The Impact of Regulations on Sidewall Stringing
Lacrosse players must be aware of the rules and regulations governing stick specifications, including those related to sidewall stringing. Different leagues and levels of play may have specific requirements that affect how sticks can be strung.
Key regulatory considerations for sidewall stringing include:
- Maximum pocket depth restrictions
- Rules regarding the use of shooting strings
- Limitations on the number of sidewall holes that can be used
- Specifications for stick dimensions and overall shape
Players and coaches should stay informed about current regulations and any changes that may affect their stringing techniques. Failure to comply with these rules can result in penalties or disqualification during games.
Adapting Stringing Techniques for Women’s Lacrosse
While many principles of sidewall stringing apply to both men’s and women’s lacrosse, there are some important distinctions due to differences in stick design and gameplay rules.
Considerations for women’s lacrosse sidewall stringing:
- Shallower pockets to comply with regulations
- Different head shapes requiring adapted stringing patterns
- Emphasis on quick release and ball control
- Restrictions on certain stringing materials and techniques
Female players and stringers must adapt their techniques to work within these parameters while still achieving optimal performance from their sticks.
The Future of Lacrosse Sidewall Stringing
As the sport of lacrosse continues to grow and evolve, so too will the art and science of sidewall stringing. Players, manufacturers, and researchers are constantly pushing the boundaries of what’s possible with stick design and stringing techniques.
Potential future developments in sidewall stringing may include:
- Smart strings with embedded sensors for performance tracking
- Biodegradable and eco-friendly stringing materials
- Automated stringing machines for precise and consistent results
- Customizable, modular sidewall systems for quick adjustments
- Integration of augmented reality for stringing guidance and analysis
As these innovations emerge, players will have even more options for customizing their sticks and optimizing their performance on the field.
In conclusion, mastering the art of lacrosse sidewall stringing is a journey that combines technical skill, creativity, and an understanding of the game’s nuances. Whether you’re a beginner learning the basics or an experienced player exploring advanced techniques, the world of sidewall stringing offers endless opportunities for improvement and personalization. By staying informed about the latest trends, techniques, and regulations, players can ensure that their sticks are always strung for success.
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Lacrosse Sidewall 10 Yards/30 Feet New Stringing Supplies USA Red/White/Blue
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Description
Brand new sections of premium quality lacrosse sidewall string cut to 10 yard sections.
– Customize your own lacrosse head
– Enough to string 2 goalie heads or 4 atk/def heads.
– 10 yards = 30 feet of lacrosse sidewall.
– Premium nylon lace string for either men or women lacrosse heads.
– Useful for many other purposes
– 100 yard spools also available
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Reupholstering upholstered furniture: step by step instructions — INMYROOM
DIY
Upholstered furniture is an indispensable attribute of any interior.
Usually sofas and armchairs raise only two questions: where to buy and how to fix it. We answer the second and figure out how to rebrand the sofa
Convenient
sitting with a book in an armchair or on the sofa watching TV is the perfect end to a hard day. But sometimes the appearance of the furniture loses its former attractiveness – and the replacement of the upholstery in this case is a good alternative to an expensive purchase. And how to change the old upholstery of your favorite and most comfortable sofa in the world to a new one? Not as difficult as you think.
Step No. 1: fit the sides
First of all, we disassemble the sofa or chair into its component parts: disconnect the sides, seat and back. The upholstery on the sidewalls must be unfastened: pry
bracket and remove it with round nose pliers. After you remove the fabric, look at the foam rubber (sometimes batting) or synthetic winterizer, which is located below. If it is in good condition, you do not need to change it.
Lay new batting or synthetic winterizer in one layer on the wooden frame of the sidewalls and cover everything with canvas. There will be upholstery fabric on top, which must first be cut. The old upholstery will act as a template – sew on it and put new material on the sidewalls, pulling it tightly and securing it with staples
from below. Be attentive to the pattern – on both sidewalls it should go in one direction,
do not confuse the wrong side and the front part.
InMyRoom Tip : The process of taking the sofa apart and removing the upholstery is best captured on camera, especially if you are unsure of your decorating skills. Photos will greatly facilitate the reassembly after replacing the furniture upholstery.
Step 2: change the filler
If the sofa filler has served you faithfully for more than 7 years, you will have to part with it – rip it off without ceremony.
Inspect everything: remove the remaining staples and pieces of filler, but do not touch the screws that connect the base to the sides.
Think about whether you need additional volume? To get more rounded sidewalls,
you need thick foam rubber at about 20–40
mm. Lay it from the outside, otherwise the sidewalls will be difficult to connect to the frame.
Stuff the sidewall by placing it on the foam sheet with the outer side. With a wallpaper knife, cut out the material so that
it covered the entire outer side and 45–50% of the inner side. Make an allowance left and right
about 70-80 mm – this is necessary to wrap the sidewall from the ends. The foam rubber is stretched and fixed with staples using a construction stapler. After that, the sidewall covered with foam rubber must be placed on the unfolded canvas and the fabric should be cut. Let the canvas cover the entire layer of foam rubber. Wrap from the bottom, then up and secure with staples.
InMyRoom tip: fill should be replaced every 7-10 years of use. At this age, insects usually start up in the material or dust simply accumulates.
Step 3: Change the upholstery on the seat
The sides are ready, it’s time to sheathe the seat.
Carefully
remove the old upholstery, remove the filler up to the springs. If there are damaged ones among them, replace them, you should also deal with a loose or broken seat frame – eliminate all their defects and strengthen the frame with furniture screws. Cover the spring block with a dense cloth, lay the foam rubber – first a layer of hard foam rubber, then more
soft.
Fasten the foam layer to the frame from the front, then pull it through all the springs to the rear and fasten it to the back and sides. The next layer is canvas, we fix it according to the same principle. Take the old upholstery material and make a new pattern using it, taking into account the extra centimeters for a denser layer of foam rubber.
InMyRoom Tip: Upholstery and old filler should be changed, stretching each new layer as much as possible around the entire perimeter of the furniture. The tighter you pull, the less wrinkling will form. A sofa or chair will look much neater and more comfortable due to the elastic filling.
Step 4: re-tightening the backrest
The upholstery of the backrest is done in almost the same way as the seat, but there are some nuances. Only soft foam rubber is used as stuffing material. The filler layer is attached only to the top
wooden frame, it is cut along the edge
spring block and do not bring to the bottom. It is easy to explain this principle: if the foam rubber runs from edge to edge of the frame, unfold / fold, for example, a sofa book or not
succeed at all, or it will be extremely difficult.
InMyRoom Tip: As with the side panels, follow the pattern closely as you wrap the back. Especially if you have a pronounced texture of the fabric or have a pattern. If the pattern goes in different directions, you will have to re-sheath the damaged part, since the appearance of the updated furniture will be hopelessly damaged.
Step #5: Assembling the Refurbished Furniture
Once all the pieces are upholstered in a new way, one of the most difficult steps comes – assembly.
Install the latch and make sure it is stable – if necessary, file the holes for the screws of a larger diameter
and fix the frames on them. To connect the back and seat, you will need to apply force, it is possible to resort to outside help. If the connection does not work out in any way, then you put too much foam rubber and you need to remove it. Loosen upholstery and
canvas on the inside of the seat and cut off part of the foam with wallpaper
knife. Reattach the upholstery and try to reattach the pieces of furniture.
Install the backrest and seat, and after making sure that they are connected securely, attach the sides.
InMyRoom Tip: If you are reupholstering a sofa bed, be sure to check the mechanism for
folding/unfolding. If there is any doubt, adjust the fasteners by slightly loosening them or vice versa – tightening them.
How to reupholster a sofa – step by step instructions with a photo, reupholstering a sofa with your own hands
If, for example, household appliances have become unusable, most often it is easier to replace them than to repair them.
If the external component of the furniture has become unusable, then there is a chance to update it with not the most difficult and costly means. For the most part, it is enough to change the upholstery to restore the look and properties of all furniture. In the article we will tell you how to reupholster a sofa yourself, how to choose the right materials and filler, describe the features of this process and give step-by-step instructions for reupholstering.
Benefits of do-it-yourself sofa upholstery
It is better to drag a sofa with a high-quality base than to replace it with a modern analogue. Whatever one may say, very reliable mechanisms were made earlier that could serve the owner and his children / grandchildren for many years.
Obvious bonuses of self-tightening:
- Unlimited in design. You do everything yourself, and therefore you can easily choose any elements exclusively to your liking. Color, material, armrests, other details – all this is up to you.
- Possibility to repair internal elements. In addition to the constriction itself, it is possible to level out the shortcomings of the frame or spring block that have formed over the years of use.
Saving money. When it is possible to reupholster the sofa yourself, you save money, because new furniture will cost more anyway. - Preservation of a favorite corner. You don’t need to throw away a sofa that is comfortable and suits you in all respects – just follow all the recommendations for a step-by-step reupholstery.
Damage and repairs
Of course, all damage can be different: from minor to more complex. This depends on the specific scope of work.
- Fabric damaged
Usually such deformations occur over time of operation or due to certain conditions, for example, the cat scratched all the armrests. If there are no other malfunctions like dips or protruding parts, then you can simply replace the upholstery.
- Presence of sagging places
In this case, the components that are responsible for the formation of the upholstered part of the furniture have worn out – that is, mainly the filler. Then it will be necessary to change the synthetic winterizer or another layer, sometimes – to repair the spring block. If, with all this, the upholstery has been preserved normally, it can simply be washed without the need for replacement.
- Seat bottom pierced
The bottom of the frame can be pressed through due to high loads. Sometimes the reason for this is the material made of this element – fiberboard. To correct the malfunction, it is worth disassembling everything, getting the spring part, changing the fiberboard. Replacement option – plywood.
- Frame damaged
Complicated failure when the frame bars are cracked. In this case, the repair is quite complicated: it will be necessary to disassemble everything, replace the bars, then restore everything.
A complete reupholstering of the sofa will be required when new furniture is assembled using the old parts as well.
A complete reupholstering of the sofa will be required when new furniture is assembled using the old parts as well.Material selection
Before you pull the sofa yourself, you need to decide what materials you will use. This applies primarily to upholstery and filler.
Filler
- Polyurethane foam is a synthetic foam structure that can be of varying degrees of firmness, but generally adapts to the shape of the body during relaxation. Inexpensive types of filler lose their shape over time.
- Sintepon is usually combined with other materials, such as polyurethane foam. All because of its insufficient rigidity – it is easily squeezed through, and therefore it becomes uncomfortable to sleep exclusively on a padding polyester over time. In its pure form, it is more suitable for pillows than as a sofa filler.
- Struttofiber, which is also called “non-woven independent springs.” The material repeats the anatomical features of the user, is resistant to moisture, breathable, hypoallergenic.
- High Density Felt is a natural felted version of the filler. It is not used in its pure form, but only in combination with other materials. It has good properties of hypoallergenicity, thermoregulation. Requires care in care to prevent the appearance of mold, insects.
- Foam rubber is considered the most inexpensive and affordable filler, but crumbles over time. Well suited for filling armrests or furniture completely, provided it is used infrequently.
Advice. To fill the sofa, it is best to combine several materials. A good option is struttofiber + felt + polyurethane foam.
Upholstery materials
- Velor is velvety in appearance and slightly shiny. It is easy to wash and vacuum. The material is well ventilated, quite durable and soft.
- Flock is chosen by those who have pets. All because of its resistance to claws, easy washing, hypoallergenicity. Good for upholstery for children’s furniture.
- Jacquard emphasizes the luxury of the product. Yes, the upholstery is more expensive, but it allows you to get a great look of the product. In care, you should be careful: do not use aggressive detergents, acids, protect the sofa from direct sunlight.
- Natural tapestry with a three-dimensional pattern on the surface is highly durable, easy to clean, pleasant to the touch.
- Leather is not the most practical upholstery option and is more suitable for office sofas or furniture that is used infrequently and is more of an interior item than a full-fledged sleeping place.
- Scotchgard is considered a modern upholstery option. Any pattern can be applied to it – it is the originality of the material that users highly appreciate. Easy to wash, but durable as bed linen (wash – no more than 40 degrees). Often the material is used as a cape.
Advice. One of the most important conditions for the durability of a sofa is the quality of the upholstery.
Therefore, when choosing, consider not only the price of the material, but also the conditions of use: frequency, the presence of children and pets.
How to reupholster a sofa at home: step by step instructions
All work on the upholstery of the sofa can be divided into several stages: calculate the materials, prepare the tools, remove the upholstery material, remove the old filler, and so on. Let’s take a closer look at each of them.
Step 1. Calculate the required amount of material
The volume of the filler is easier to calculate, for this you need the dimensions of the sofa. To calculate the amount of upholstery, it is important to consider several nuances:
- Specify the width of the upholstery roll. If this parameter is not enough for some part of the sofa, then pieces of upholstery will need to be sewn together.
- Do not ignore the size of the overlap of the material on the frame – it can reach up to 20 centimeters. The upholstery is fastened to the sofa with special brackets.
- It’s better to play it safe and take into account the double height and width parameters, because it’s easier to remove the leftovers than to connect the pieces that weren’t enough.
- For patterned upholstery, it is important to choose the right pattern, and most often in this case, material consumption increases.
The upholstery is fastened to the sofa with special brackets.Step 2: Prepare tool
When removing old upholstery, you cannot do without at least a clerical knife, scissors, a hammer, a screwdriver, a construction / furniture stapler, a set of open-end wrenches.
Step 3: Remove upholstery/filling
The upholstery material is removed with a clerical knife. By the way, if carefully removed, it can be used to calculate the amount of new tissue. Remember that often the upholstery is attached with staples to the back of the sofa, and removing each of them is problematic even for a specialist. Therefore, sometimes it is easier to tear the fabric out of the staples, and then gently drive them back into the wood.
Even if you really want to save on replacing the filler, it is better to dispose of it. Even the highest quality materials, over the years of use, accumulate dust and dirt, microbes, cake and sag.
Step 4: Inspect structure for problem areas
The sofa is in pieces. This stage is especially important when you are dealing with rather old furniture. It is important to notice fasteners and mechanisms, the integrity or functioning of which is impaired. To do this, inspect the wooden parts – if damaged, they will need to be replaced with the same ones. Also lubricate the places where the metal touches with silicone – this way you can get rid of the squeak.
Step 5: Cut and fasten the new material and core
First you need to fix the upholstery to the wooden base.
Before that, we mount the filler. If several layers are planned, then it is especially important to fix them with glue – a special, odorless one. Such a layer of filling is fixed with brackets – perpendicular to the plane of the wooden beams for good adhesion.
For the correct cutting of the new material, you must either take measurements from the old upholstery, or measure the parameters for the filler that has been fixed. The last option is the most accurate. When cutting the material, leave a margin of 2-4 centimeters in case of an error. After preparing the cutting, the covers must be put on the parts and straightened to the maximum. The seams of the cover should be parallel to the edges of the parts, the corners should be in contact with the corners of the frame. Next, the cover is fastened with staples starting from the middle – this way it will be possible to remove excess fabric without visible defects, sewing the edges manually, for example.
Step 6. Assemble the sofa
This process occurs in reverse order. That is, at the end, the back and seat are assembled. Before assembly, inspect all the details again: fabric, bonded structure, individual parts.
Stage 7. Decoration
An optional, but important step for those who start with small repairs and end up with large-scale work with updating the entire room.
If the sofa is already stretched and looks like new, you can update the area around the furniture with “small losses”. For example, change the wallpaper, decorate the wall with photo wallpapers or picturesque prints.
Picturesque prints are also appropriate on pillows. The easiest way is to replace the covers with new ones, contrasting in comparison with the main upholstery of the sofa. Moreover, brighter solutions are located in the center of the sofa, neutral ones – on the side.
Constriction features: what to look for
Upholstery fastening quality. The most important thing when reupholstering furniture is how secure the upholstery is. The fabric should not be too tight, but not loose. To check the correctness of the manipulations performed, press on the material with your hand: if everything is done correctly, then the fabric is pressed through without effort and returns to its original position. In the presence of squeaks and crackles, the upholstery is stretched too tightly, and therefore there is a high risk of damage over time.
There are also nuances when hauling corner, spring, leather sofas. More about them:
Corner sofa. Here it is very important to correctly combine the pattern. The marking of the upholstery material starts from one of the edges – to the opposite. First, sheathe the corner, then the bed, and lastly, the back.
Spring sofa. We need a supply of cloth here. Indeed, it is often necessary to put an additional layer of fabric between the metal frame and the fine upholstery. Such a layer minimizes the risk of tearing the upholstery on both sides of the sofa, where there is no soft filling layer.
Leather sofa. If the upholstery material is genuine leather, then it is important to consider a few points:
- fabric thickness – no more than 1.5 mm for greater elasticity and to reduce the risk of cracks in the places of deflection;
- upholstery with wet leather is excluded – the fabric will shrink when dried;
- do not use needles / pins to temporarily fix the fabric – holes in the skin are not tightened;
- to stitch the skin, you need to lubricate the foot of the sewing machine with petroleum jelly – so the material will be protected from tearing, and the stitching itself will be faster;
- The seam allowance risks rolling when stretched. To prevent these places, you need to iron them through cheesecloth.
To prevent these places, you need to iron them through cheesecloth.Replacement parts
After removing the old cover, you can find a lot of damage, which, of course, must be corrected for the cleanliness of all work. Here are some of them:
- Frame beams. If this part of the sofa is cracked, it needs to be replaced. An important detail – the new tree must be dry, without cracks and bark, with an even structure. Material with defects will quickly burst, raw material will dry out and warp. The lock saw, which usually fixes the old beams, is best repeated by ordering from a carpenter or by doing it yourself. Soak the joints of the new beams with PVA before joining.
- Fiberboard parts. Usually these are the jumpers of the seat / back frame, which can break during operation. To replace, cut out new parts in the same dimensions as the old ones, or order them from a furniture workshop. A life hack for a trouble-free further replacement of such parts: it is better to make jumpers separate. Fastening is carried out with a pneumatic stapler / nails.
- Springs. It happens that bursting springs can be found in sofas over time. The result of this deformation is poor cushioning characteristics of the furniture and the risk of cuts / injuries. Replacing one or more damaged springs is an option, but does not rule out re-breakage. It is much more rational in this case to completely replace the spring blocks.
- Seat belts. Sometimes thick bands are used as belts in chairs. Typically, the backs/seats use tightly woven straps with foam overlaid. And although they are torn infrequently, it is worth knowing that in the event of a defect, any strong belts with dense weaving of at least 6-7 centimeters in width will fit for replacement.
- Foam. The foam rubber defect is manifested in its compressed state. The fact that in old sofas the filler becomes obsolete is normal: any kind of foam rubber can withstand a certain amount of compression, after which it is able to restore its shape.
Fastening is carried out with a pneumatic stapler / nails.
