Palm Tree Pruning – How And When To Prune A Palm Tree
Cutting back a palm tree will not make it grow faster. This myth has caused gardeners to do extensive palm tree pruning that doesn’t help and can hurt the tree. Pruning palm plants, like any plant pruning, must be undertaken carefully. If you want to know how and when to prune a palm tree to make it stronger and healthier, read on.
Trimming a Palm Tree
Some experts recommend avoiding all palm tree pruning, but most suggest you avoid cutting too much or too often. When should you think about pruning palm plants?
Think about cutting back a palm tree if you notice dead or dying fronds. Removing these fronds by pruning palm plants not only prevents breakage damage, but also eliminates nesting places for rats, scorpions, and other pests.
Another good reason to start trimming a palm tree is when it has become a fire hazard or visual hazard in your yard. If it blocks the views from your driveway or sidewalk, you’ll have to start palm tree pruning.
How and When to Prune a Palm Tree
Experts recommend that you wait until spring to prune your palm tree. Those dead fronds may be somewhat unattractive, but they will help protect the palm from summer’s heat and winter’s cold.
Sterilize and sharpen your pruning tools before you begin. Generally, you’ll need pruners, garden knives, and pruning saws when you are trimming a palm tree. Wear safety glasses and protective gloves, as well as heavy pants and a shirt with long sleeves.
Remove any hanging, dead or unhealthy fronds. All dry, wilted, or diseased fronds should be removed.
On the other hand, when you are pruning palm plants, don’t think you need to prune green, healthy fronds. There is no biological reason to do so and it can stress the tree. Be sure not to remove green fronds growing horizontally or pointing up.
What to Avoid When Cutting Back a Palm Tree
When cutting back a palm tree, don’t remove most of the fronds. Some gardeners make the mistake of doing this every year, and the tree becomes weak and unhealthy.
In fact, leave as many green fronds as you possibly can on the palm. Palms need many green fronds to produce a steady food supply so that the plant can grow. A palm tree cannot stay healthy and build reserves without a considerable number of green fronds.
And resist the urge to start pruning palm plants for cosmetic reasons. Pruning them into pineapple shapes or skinning their trunks weaken the trees.
Palm Tree Trimming Cost Guide 2021 (Compare Prices) How to Save …
Normally this will take place when you have the dead or dying palm fronds trimmed.
Palm trees flower annually and grow large seed pods that can be quite messy.
It is advisable to get your palm tree trimming service to price for the removal of dead frons as well as seed or flower pods.
The price range to remove the fruit on a 15 – 20-foot tall palm tree, will be $50 – $70. Larger palm trees that are 30 – 40 feet high will usually cost $100 per tree.
IMPORTANT: It is going to cost you the same price to remove dead fronds and seed pods as it will to just remove dead fronds. If you get these done at different times of year you will pay double.
Cost to trim a tree – Notes and General Information
These estimates are for BASIC work performed in regular conditions by a qualified arborist priced at mid-range in the market. Requesting tree trimming work as an emergency service, during peak times or usings certain companies will result in HIGHER COSTS.
These estimates are NOT substitutes for written quotes from qualified arborists or tree service professionals. GoTreeQuotes strongly recommends that you contact reputable and certified professionals for accurate assessments of work required and costs for your project before making a decision or committing.
The cost estimate includes:
- Costs for a qualified local arborist to climb using a single Rope Technique or elevated work platform and trim your tree.
- Costs to remove all waste material from the site and leave the site as they found it.
- Setup time and minimum hourly charges are usually included for tree trimming jobs.
The cost estimate does NOT include:
- Costs for tree risk and hazard assessments. This is a separate service and will incur additional costs.
- Costs for a written arborist report to gain permission from your city, county, or state to trim your tree.
- Sales tax for service rendered.
- Permit or inspection fees (or portion thereof) required by your local tree ordinance.
Cost to trim a tree – Unit Price References
Standard estimating practices – American society of professional estimators, Website, 2019
Finding and hiring a consulting arborist – American society of arboriculture, website, 2020
How to hire a tree service – University of Florida, pdf, 2019.
Research foundation to tree pruning – Research Gate, website, 2018
How to hire tree care professionals – University of Minnesota, website 2020
Author: Ben McInerney – Ben is a qualified arborist with 15 plus years of industry experience in Arboriculture. He ran a successful tree service before turning to writing and publishing. Ben is dedicated to providing users with the most accurate up-to-date information on everything trees.
3 Methods for Removing a Palm Tree
If you have a palm tree, one of the things that you might need to do is to have the tree removed. There are several ways that you can do this. Below are three methods that you can use for removing a palm tree and the steps that are involved.
Having a Company Remove It
Snap a Pic of the Palm Tree
A few types of varieties of palms are thought to be valuable, and it’s possible you can make some money by uprooting the tree rather than destroying it. some of the companies are going to remove your tree, buy the tree and then it will be relocated. You are going to have to get a picture of it so you’ll be able to decide what kind of tree it is.
The palm tree type is determined by a few factors – leaves, the shape of the trunk, height and various other features. Be certain they’re visible in the picture.
Two of the most common kinds are Queen Palm and Mexican Fan, so they’re not thought to be valuable.
Kentia Palm and Chilean Wine Palms might be valuable.
Research the Tree
Look online and see if you can figure out what species your tree is. You should search online for photo guides of different varieties of palm trees, then compare the picture you took to the online pictures to decide the type of tree that you have. Then you can decide how the tree should be removed.
If you aren’t sure, nurseries that specialize in palm trees or companies that remove palm trees may be able to help with identifying the tree.
Check the Tree’s Location
Be sure the palm’s in a location that’s accessible. A removable service will need a lot of room for them to work. Make sure the area’s clear of furniture, debris, and vehicles. You also want to look and see if there are any power lines close to the tree that it might fall on when it’s being removed. If it’s in a smaller area, like in a yard that’s surrounded by a fence, it’s possible that it’s going to cost the service a lot to remove it, so they may not buy it.
Removing palms that are close to power lines or buildings also is dangerous, so you should hire a service that is professional. If the tree is in a tight space it’s going to be difficult to remove, so the company is going to charge more to remove it.
Check the Laws
One thing that you want to do is consult the regulations about removing taller trees. There may be laws against removing trees that are tall. This is mainly due to safety because dealing with especially large trees can pose a danger to yourself or other people. If you have a really tall palm tree, you want to have someone who is professional to remove it.
An example is that if you live in California, it’s possible that you won’t be able to cut down a palm tree that’s more than 12 feet tall yourself. A tall tree will often require a lot more tools and workers to cut, so the company will likely charge more.
Contact a removal service that’s reputable. After you’ve decided what you want to do with the palm tree, you’ll have to find a company that’s willing to do the job. Talk about the options that you have with the companies that service your area. Before you choose the company, you should always look for the name of the company on the Internet to find out their credentials. You also want to read customers’ reviews.
If you are going to sell the palm, contact a company that does tree relocation or a nursery to dig your tree up without causing it harm. If you are simply cutting it down, call a service that removes trees.
Removing a Palm to be Transplanted
Find Out if It’s Valuable
Before you dig up your palm tree, research your tree. It’s a good idea to take its picture and search for it online. This will help you with figuring out if you have a valuable tree. Some of the varieties of palms are considered to be valuable by planting companies and growers, and it’s possible they’ll want to buy your tree.
If you have a valuable tree, or you want the tree to be moved without causing it harm, dig your tree up rather than cutting the tree down. A palm tree nursery or a tree removal company can help with identifying the value of the tree and its specifics.
Assess the Tree
Figure out how the tree should be falling. Stand in the spot where you’d like your palm to fall. The spot should be away from other trees, power lines and buildings. Detect the lean by taking a look along its trunk up to its branches. View it at other types of angles if needed for figuring out its lean, along with spotting any damage signs which could alter the tree’s trajectory.
Check out the regulations in your area before starting to ensure that you’re following all of the tree removal laws.
Plan to bring your tree down the way that it leans. If that’s not possible, dig out around 24 inches out of the soil around the tree’s roots the way that you’d like your tree to go when it falls.
Ensure the fronds of the tree aren’t tangled in the power lines or other things that are going to fall when the tree falls. If there are obstacles, it’s best to bring in a professional to help.
Anchor Your Tree
Use a rope to anchor your palm tree. This will anchor it to the grass and it’s needed in case there’s a topple and damage is caused, particularly if you have a large tree. Around Anchor the palm tree to the ground with a rope. This is needed in case the tree topples and causes damage, especially if the tree is large. About a third of the way going up your tree, wrap 4 strong rope pieces around the tree’s trunk. Each rope should be stretched a minimum of 2 feet from your tree. Plant metal stakes for each rope’s end and tightly tie your rope to your stakes.
Each of the ropes should travel the same distance from your tree. Make sure each of the ropes is tightly tied.
Another way that you can secure your tree is to stand some wooden boards against your tree. Nail one end of each of the boards to your tree around one-third of the distance up its trunk, then the other end should be staked into the ground.
If your tree starts falling, clear your area immediately. Go to a spot that’s out of the range of the tree.
Check the Roots
Now you want to create a circle. This is going to go around your tree’s base. Measure the width of the tree so that you can estimate how big your root ball is. You should expect that your tree’s root ball is going to be around two times in width as the tree is, and this can be as much as 24 inches around. This can be marked by making the circle around your tree using spray chalk.
If you have a taller tree, the roots are going to spread out. If the tree is taller than 16 feet, the root ball may be bigger than 24 inches. If you’re planning to replant or transfer the tree, it’s a good idea to make your circle 30 inches or even bigger so that you don’t damage larger roots.
You want to dig in from your circle’s edge. Dig around your circle’s edge, and move your dirt until you’re able to see its root balls’ bottom. There is a lot of string, small roots that won’t spread quite as far compared with other trees. After you’ve found the roots’ ends, start moving towards the trunk until you’re exposing the root ball’s top.
Even though palms will need the majority of their roots so that they can be successfully replanted, a little damage to the roots isn’t going to kill it. You can also rent a crane to dig beneath its root ball so that the tree isn’t harmed.
Dealing with Roots
Sever stubborn or long roots using your shovel. A palm is able to survive a certain amount of damage to its roots. It’s possible to prune the larger roots that are going beyond the ball. Use something like a saw, hoe or shovel for cutting through them. Place its blade on roots close to the ball, then press down so that it’s severed.
If you’re able to expose your root ball’s bottom successfully, it won’t be necessary to sever any of the roots.
Digging Up the Tree
Dig under the ball in order to free your tree. Continue to dig around your tree until you’re able to see the ball’s bottom. It will be necessary to get the shovel beneath the ball so that you’re able to wedge your tree free. After the ball’s exposed, you can move your tree.
If you’re unable to reach the bottom of your root ball, cut the long roots. If your tree starts falling, quickly get out of its way just in case your supports fail.
Bringing the Tree Down
Lower your tree down. Your tree is able to be lowered after its roots have been exposed. Get some people to help you, since a palm tree is very heaven. Loosen your ropes on one of the ends, and then lower your tree slowly. Don’t stand under your tree where it’s going to fall.
If you haven’t cut many of its roots or you haven’t sawed off the trunk’s top, your tree will be able to be planted again somewhere else. You just have to have a hole that’s deep enough so that it can cover its root ball.
If you have a large tree, it will be necessary to use a crane for moving it once it’s down. Once it’s been replanted, you will have to provide aftercare, like regularly watering it, so that it will take root.
Cutting Your Palm Tree Down
Find Out It’s Worth
You want to take a picture of it and then search for the tree online to see if it’s valuable. There are some trees that are common and that will cost more money to plant somewhere else than they would if you just remove them. If you aren’t sure what kind of palm you have, it’s good to consult an expert.
Wear a facemask and earmuffs. If you use your chainsaw improperly, it can be dangerous. You should protect your hearing by wearing ear muffs that reduce noise and put on a good hard hat that has a face mask that you can flip up so that wooden shards that are flying don’t go into your face or eyes.
You also want to wear sturdy boots, gloves, and long sleeves and pants.
Protect Yourself Up High
If you have to climb the tree, use a harness. If you are going to trim the tree so that its weight is reduced, it will be necessary to climb it. A hydraulic lift or harness will be necessary for trees that are around 12 feet tall or higher. Attach your harness to your tree or something else that’s stable, such as a close building.
It’s possible to purchase the harness on the internet or at home improvement stores. If you’re uncomfortable doing it yourself, it’s a good idea to hire someone to do it.
Figure Out the Trajectory of the Tree
Evaluate the way that your tree’s going to fall. Stand a distance from it and then look up its trunk to discern its lean. Chances are good that it’s going to fall in that direction. Be sure your tree’s clear of the power lines. You also want to make sure it’s not going to fall on vehicles or other items.
Be sure that you’re following local tree removal regulations and get in contact with a service if it’s close to things such as power lines.
If you’re unable to fall the tree the way it’s leaning, it will be necessary to make a notch that’s deeper the way that you’re wanting it to fall. Cut around one third of the way into the trunk of the tree. If your tree has holes or cracks, it might fall in the direction of those damaged spots. Make sure that you know about the spots and ensure you’re working around those spots.
Clear Your Area
Make sure the area’s cleared before you cut your tree. You also want to ensure that there’s no one in the area before starting to work on your tree. A palm tree is really heavy and even its fronds can cause damage when they fall. Pets and children should be kept far away until your tree’s down.
You should know what’s around you. Make sure there’s an escape plan if the tree begins splintering, falling towards you or cracking.
Removing the Fronds
If you have a shorter tree, you’ll be able to remove its fronds with a ladder. Position your ladder beside the branch you’re cutting on so it won’t fall upon you. If this isn’t possible, hydraulic lifts or nearby structures can help you get above your fronds.
When you’re trimming your fronds, stand above them or next to them. Don’t stand beneath them. Ask someone to help you with watching the tree and keeping an eye out for it to start to splinter or fall in the opposite direction. The person who is holding the ladder for you might be able to do this for you. Hydraulic lifts can be rented from home improvement stores.
Prune the Fronds
You can trim your fronds using your pruning saw. Use your saw to cut through your fronds one by one. Cut each of them really close to the trunk of the tree. It’s possible to use your chainsaw, too, but fronds often are tough meaning that your blades are going to wear out quickly. You should change the blade when it’s not cutting cleanly through your tree’s branches.
Allow the branches that you have cut to fall. Ensure there’s no one beneath your tree while you’re working. If you’re unable to cut your fronds, it’s possible to cut the entire tree down. But keep in mind that the fronds are going to make your tree a lot heavier as well as affect its trajectory. The trajectory also will be affected by the wind, particularly if your tree still has fronds.
Cutting Down Your Tree
Create a notch at the base of the tree. Use the right technique for cutting so that the tree’s trajectory is controlled. Create your triangular cut at the side where the tree should fall. In order to make this cut, use your chainsaw to diagonally slice down around one quarter of the tree’s diameter and then pull your saw from the trunk.
This cut should be made at your chest or waist level so that you don’t have a huge stump left over once the tree’s down.
If you don’t want to completely take the tree down, use your chainsaw to cut your tree from its top. Cut around 12 inches off at each time and keep going until you only have a stump.
Finish Cutting Down Tree
Cut through your tree from its opposite side. Use your chainsaw to cut right through your tree. Saw through your tree until you’ve reached the notch’s tip. Move quickly away from your tree when the cracking starts. Chances are that your tree’s going to fall in the direction of your notch cut.
It’s possible you’ll need to replace your blade more than once so that you’re able to cut through your tree completely.
Remove the Stump
One of the best ways that you can remove your stump is to get a grinder. Rent one of the power stump grinders for taking out the palm trees that are remaining. You’re going to have to go down through your stump and remove it one piece at a time. This will take quite a bit of efforts. You will need patience and just slowly whittle down your stump.
You’ll also have to dig the dirt around your stump so that the section that’s left is exposed. To make this easier, it’s a good idea to use stump killer made of potassium nitrate.
These are the three ways that you can remove a palm tree. Think about what you want to do with your tree and what kind of tree you have, then you can choose the right method for you.
pruning – What is the best method/saw to cut through tough palm tree fronds with? (30-foot Queen Palms)
pruning – What is the best method/saw to cut through tough palm tree fronds with? (30-foot Queen Palms) – Gardening & Landscaping Stack Exchange
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I have a pole saw with a typical pruning saw blade and it works great on fresh green palm fronds (which I really shouldn’t be cutting, but I don’t want them touching my roof line) but the ones that I just can’t manage to cut are the tougher, older fronds, especially if they are completely dead. And the fruit is very problematic because it drops them by the thousands so I try to remove them soon as I can but they are very though to cut. These are all four Queen Palms, two of which are over 30 feet high so I’ve been using a ladder and my pole saw. It’s one of the most tiring jobs I’ve done myself at home only because it takes so much energy to cut through the tougher fronds. There has to be a better saw than a typical pruning pole saw, perhaps something meant for palms? I’m the type who prefers to learn/do everything myself as opposed to hiring pros so bear that in mind. I am willing to pay for the perfect saw however to keep in my garage. If you have any tips on technique that would be helpful too. It strains my neck having to look up at what I am cutting. Thanks for any advice.
asked Apr 11 ’15 at 18:26
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When you say pole saw I assume you mean a standard manual pole saw. If you’re willing to spend a little money look into a chainsaw pole saw, that should tear through them in a hurry.
answered Apr 11 ’15 at 18:44
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I have used high-quality Japanese saw blades to cut dry palm fronds (replacing them when they start getting dull). They cut through even dry fronds like butter (as long as the teeth are a good size: over 1/2 cm but less than 1, IIRC), and cut-on-pull is way easier when trying to balance on a ladder.
The saw I used was hand-held, but I suppose you could lash it to a lightweight pole (your old pole saw, or a length of bamboo) if you can’t find a really sharp cut-on-pull blade for your existing pole saw.
answered Apr 12 ’15 at 0:20
I always used a bow saw or pruning saw to trim my big and little palms. They will cut through anything. Not good for high stuff. Mine got so big I had to finally break down and hire someone to cut them for me. Not worth going to the hospital.
answered Apr 12 ’15 at 5:33
I quickly gave up using a pruning pole saw, and now cut the dead fronds from my Washingtonias, and Phoenix palms, in minutes with cheap but efficient pruning shears which I bought from my local supermarket and have used for the last three years. You will, however, need a good ladder if your palms are 5 to 6 meters tall.
answered May 20 ’15 at 15:51
If you are going to completely cut down a larger palm tree, please be advised you will need probably 3 chainsaw blades because queen palms dull the blades very quickly (I have never seen this so fast vs other trees).
We used 3 blades on a 20 inch saw to take down a 25 foot queen palm and cut into 12 inch pieces for disposal because they are SO heavy.
BTW I would never plant a Queen Palm again because they require much maintenance of the fronds and seed pods which make a mess and this becomes a real challenge when the tree is over 20 feet tall.
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answered Jan 11 ’16 at 14:44
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I’m in precisely the same position with my tall palms over 30 years old. I’m not certain about telescopic pole chainsaws, given the potential for hazardous kickback at extended heights. I’m presently looking at manual high quality blade pole saws at this site http://www.forestrytools.com.au/index.php?id=24. And specifically the Silky Hayate 7.7m Pole Saw, aluminium pole saw, which is their longest reach.
answered Mar 11 ’16 at 8:08
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I use a battery and 12V reciprocating saw with a good Diablo DS0905FG5 blade from Home Depot and they cut like butter. If you don’t like ladders, hire somebody!
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answered Jun 9 ’16 at 2:21
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Miami Beach to cut back on famous palm trees over climate concerns | Miami
As a poster child for the climate emergency, Miami Beach has become a world leader in mitigating the effects of sea-level rise. Now the subtropical Florida city is cutting back on its famous swaying palm trees as it seeks shadier alternatives to preserve its environment and try to keep residents and visitors cool.
Officials have embarked on a 30-year plan to reduce the percentage of palm trees in the city to only one quarter of its total canopy by 2050, according to the Miami Herald. Currently, Arecaceae palms account for more than 55% of the city’s population of 48,900 trees.
The cutback is needed, the newspaper says, to reduce urban warming and improve air quality, and about 1,000 palm trees will be removed in the coming weeks as part of already scheduled construction projects.
But Elizabeth Wheaton, the environmental and sustainability director for Miami Beach, said there was no plan for any mass chopping down of palms, which have been a staple of postcards and travel brochures depicting Miami for generations.
Instead, the percentage reduction will be largely achieved by planting about 1,300 new shade trees instead of palms over the next two decades, which she said would make the city “more walkable and pleasant.”
“Expanding shade canopy will enhance the city’s brand and quality of life,” Wheaton wrote in an email to the Herald. “Palms will continue to be a focal point along the city’s roads, green spaces and parks.”
According to the urban forestry master plan that forms part of Miami Beach’s Rising Above initiative to combat the climate crisis, about 17 percent of the city’s 15.2 sq-mile footprint has a tree canopy.
The plan details the environmental benefits of planting shade trees, including species such as oak, ash, elm and sycamore, in place of palms. For example, a 16in trunk diameter live oak tree would remove 510lb of carbon dioxide, 20oz of harmful ozone, and intercept 725 gallons of rainfall per year.
By contrast, a native sabal palmetto palm of the same dimensions would absorb only 2.7lb of carbon dioxide, 1.7oz of ozone and 81 gallons of rainfall.
“Trees have been proven to be one of the most effective tools for mitigating the effects of climate change,” the plan, drawn up by urban and landscape experts in conjunction with the Florida forestry service, states.
“Palms, while an iconic part of Miami Beach’s landscape, have moved from being an accent plant to a major component of the city’s urban forest. General guidelines for species diversity state that no family should make up more than 30% of a city’s tree population.”
Garden Guides | How to Trim Potted Palms
Healthy potted palms grown indoors require infrequent pruning. Occasionally remove dying fronds or browned blades to keep the palm looking tidy. Palm trees that have been stressed to the point of the fronds browning or yellowing will need to be pruned more severely, since once the fronds are damaged they cannot be returned to a healthy green hue. Palm fronds are easily be damaged by drought, excessive heat, sun burn or lack of macro and micro fertilizer nutrients; controlling for these will significantly lessen the need to prune your palm.
Cut back a dying brown or yellow palm frond down to just 6 inches above the crown or bud of the palm. Use a handsaw or loppers to cut just the dying frond stem but not cut into the stalk beneath it. Make a horizontal or upward bias cut into the stalk; do not angle it down which can damage the adjacent stalk. Refrain from pulling the stalk out or away from the tree and then cutting it as this can damage the crown and invite disease.
- Healthy potted palms grown indoors require infrequent pruning.
- Use a handsaw or loppers to cut just the dying frond stem but not cut into the stalk beneath it.
Remove random individual yellowing or browning blades on a frond by cutting them with clean secateurs at the base of the blade snug up against the stalk. Refrain from cutting into the stalk at all and just remove the individual blades at their base and discard.
Water and feed the palm after you prune it to reduce stress on the palm and spur fresh growth. Use a granular palm food fertilizer labeled to include micro-nutrients according to recommended dosing directions. Water thoroughly to soak the soil and fertilizer letting the excess water drain away so that the roots are not standing in water for any extended period of time.
Trim The Fronds Of Coconut Palms
Put on work gloves to protect your hands from injury while working with the coconut palm’s fronds. Select a dead frond, one that is brown, dry and hanging downward. Hold the terminal end of the dead frond in one hand and saw through the center of its main stem with a pruning saw. Drop the cut frond tip to the ground. Repeat this process to remove all dead fronds from the palm. Remove any broken, damaged or diseased fronds. Dip the pruning saw’s blade into a 50 percent bleach solution for 5 minutes after cutting through diseased fronds to prevent spreading the disease to healthy growth. Cut out any limp, yellow fronds hanging downward at an angle less than 90 degrees toward the trunk.
- Remove random individual yellowing or browning blades on a frond by cutting them with clean secateurs at the base of the blade snug up against the stalk.
- Water thoroughly to soak the soil and fertilizer letting the excess water drain away so that the roots are not standing in water for any extended period of time.
Should I Cut Off Brown Palm Leaves?
Take a moment and imagine how majestic green fronds look as they sway gently to the call of the wind on a sunny afternoon. We are guessing we are visualizing somewhere in Miami or Hawaii.
The palm tree is such an elegant beauty to see. But we are sorry to burst your bubble and pull you out of that pleasant daydream.
Palm fronds are not always green and upright. Sometimes, they can be brown and lacking turgidity. But should I cut off brown palm leaves? Yes, but that is only if the leaves are brown due to other reasons apart from aging.
Should I Cut Off Brown Palm Leaves?
You can cut the brown palm fronds off if the browning is not a result of aging. How do you know if the browning is a result of aging?
Check if green fronds are growing out of the palm. If they are, then you should not cut off the brown palm leaves. They will wither and fall off on their own.
But if no new fronds are growing, yet the fronds are turning brown, then you should cut off the brown part of the palm leaves. How do you do the cutting?
Use alcohol to sterilize your pruning shears or saw, depending on the size of the branches. The alcohol wipes found in the first-aid box can serve.
When you are about to cut off the brown fronds, moisten the saw or the pruning shears, so you don’t damage the tree’s tissue.
Cut the brown leaves off from their bases. Ensure you don’t pull the leaves; they may leave a scar on the trunk, which is terrible for your palm.
Why Are My Palm Leaves Turning Brown?
Now that we’re done discussing why you might consider cutting off brown palm tree leaves, let us see the reason why the leaves are browning in the first place.
1. Natural Causes
As the palm grows and passes through various seasons, the fronds’ lifespan comes to an end, so the frond would have to die. The browning starts from the tip, then spreads completely to other parts of the fronds.
When this browning is happening, new and green fronds grow again to replace them, and this is one indication that the browning is a result of a natural process and should not worry you.
2. Cold Due to Injury
Palms trees generally are tropical plants. What this means is that they love places with high temperatures.
It is easier to prevent indoor plants from getting a cold injury than those outside, which are entirely at the mercy of prevailing weather conditions. Please do not place the plant near door drafts and windows, so they don’t get affected by cold.
You should even take this more seriously if you are tending to a palm in winter. During summer, please do not keep it directly under an air-conditioner. The cold will make the leaves of your palm tree to go brown.
3. Too Much Fertilizer
This issue is more critical for those who are cultivating their palms indoors. Adding too many fertilizers in the soil will cause the fronds to go brown and even affect the plant adversely.
You should only add fertilizer to the plant in summer and spring. These two seasons are when the palm needs fertilizer the most as it grows fastest then.
Ensure also that the fertilizer you are making use of is the right choice. Always follow the recommended dosage. More is not ideal on this issue.
4. Frequency of Water
Too much or too little water will cause your leaves to brown and plant die. The soil on which your palm is standing should be moist. During spring, watering is not necessary because of the rain.
For potted plants, add water generously every two to three weeks, and allow the water to percolate. Take out the water that stays on top of the soil, so the palm doesn’t suffer from root rot.
Most people cut brown leaves off on the palm tree, though, whether or not the browning was caused by aging or not. Gardeners should take care when doing this because cutting fronds off a palm tree may expose the tree to harm.
It is also important to note that the leaves remaining on the palm should be four times the number you are getting rid of. If you leave your plant empty, without fronds, you are exposing the plant to diseases.
So, should I cut off brown palm leaves? Well, we hope this article has answered and cleared your concerns. Happy gardening.
FELCO 14 | FELCO SA
FELCO 14 | FELCO SA
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One-handed secateurs – High results – Ergonomic – Compact
The FELCO 14 are the most compact, lightweight and maneuverable pruners (garden shears) in the FELCO range.They are suitable for small hands, but will also fit comfortably in larger hands. Their small size does not limit, but even increases the cutting force and allows you to cope with branches up to 18 mm in diameter. See for yourself. Try these compact, lightweight and powerful garden shears at work. Like the rest of FELCO products, they are made of high quality materials: the blades are made from hardened steel and the robust handles are made from hot-formed aluminum. The angled cutter head provides exceptional maneuverability and ease of use: the tool is like an extension of your hand.Rubber bumpers prevent wrist stretching thanks to the smooth running of the blades. The ultra-precise mechanism allows you to easily adjust the cutter head for the precision of cut that is typical of FELCO tools.
SELECT THE REQUIRED SPARE PART
Handle without blade
Handle without counter blade
Blade handle cover
Plastic anvil blade handle cover
Anvil blade with screw
- 2 / 15
- 2 / 5B
Rivet for blade
Screw for counter blade
Screw for toothed segment
Set: 2 springs
Handle without blade
1x 14/1 + 3x 2 / 5B + 1x 2/19 + 1x 2/20 + 1x 2 / 10 + 1x 2/13 + 1x 2/12 + 1x 2/14 + 1x 14/35
- Lightweight design enables efficient use no matter where and where you need to go.
- The narrow, pointed cutterhead allows for easy and convenient access to the desired branches, making the pruning process safe and efficient.
- Because the FELCO 14 secateurs provide precise pruning, they are the ideal tool for cutting small branches and get the job done the first time.
- Forged aluminum handles are robust enough for intensive trimming processes.
- Trust FELCO’s proprietary technology – special heat treatment and hardening for long tool life and incredible blade sharpness.
- The compact design efficiently distributes shearing forces for high performance in any situation.
- The angled head makes the tool feel like an extension of your hand, making the cutting process incredibly easy and comfortable.
- Enjoy a comfortable and safe pruning process with ergonomic, shock-absorbing, non-slip phthalate-free * handles.
- Juice chute protects the blade from sticking and increases cutting efficiency.
- The wire cutting notch in the blade comes in handy for any occasion, and also eliminates the possibility of blunting the tool.
- Easily adjustable cutting head provides a clean and precise cut for quick healing.
- The rubber bumper makes the pruner easier to grip, allowing you to work longer and less fatigue.
- The blade can be changed easily, quickly and safely, so you can always get on with your work without delay.
- The adjustable stop lock allows you to safely pick up the tool and carry it in the carrying case where you are cutting.
- If you value reliability as much as we do, you want to keep your FELCO tool in top condition and minimize use loss as every important part can be replaced – from the blade and spring to the smallest screw.
- The red handles emphasize the Swiss tradition and also make it possible to always find a FELCO tool in any setting.
- Made in Switzerland using 100% renewable energy sources.
* Phthalates are known to cause endocrine disruption. FELCO has been producing phthalate-free products since 2015.
Chainsaw Stihl MS 211 40 cm tire 11392000376
Great German tool
Not found yet
Before buying, I chose a manufacturer among many, settled on German.I bought the MS 211 chainsaw this spring. Works good. Convenient to use, not too loud, the weight is small, practically no vibration is transmitted to the handle. Overall happy with the saw. All liked it.
Lightness, power, reliability
They took the saw to my grandfather to the dacha, I really bribed the weight of the chainsaw in the scope with its power, this is important to us. The work is ordinary, the preparation of firewood, and a couple of trees had to be cut down, nothing unusual.We have been using it for the 3rd year, it is working properly, we handed it over for the planned 2 times, for the whole time we only changed the fuel filter, everything else is fine.
Productive, although the power is small. Parts are easy to find.
I have been using it for a long time, but did not find it
I have been using the stihl ms 211 saw for seven years for household tasks. Found that the chains are stretching. I thought that the quality had dropped, so I gave it to the service.They said that the sprocket was completely worn out. Now I change not only the chains and tires, but also the sprocket. The chains run just like in the first years of use, they stopped stretching. There are no more problems. The engine starts quickly even after long periods of inactivity. I always pour only branded oil. I take only high quality gasoline.
High quality at a reasonable price
I did not find any special flaws
I bought a MS 211 chainsaw for small jobs on my site.The chainsaw proved to be excellent. It has an air filter with a pre-cleaning function, so any dirt is thrown out by itself, and the filter does not clog. There is also a winter mode for heating the carburetor. So it doesn’t freeze. In short, I advise you to take it without hesitation!
I ordered this chainsaw on the Internet through the official website of the manufacturer, with its first use I realized that it is a reliable tool that does not cause problems with its operation
I did not find any flaws in my work, the saw is much better than the old chainsaw in terms of power
The Stihl MS 211 chainsaw was acquired in order to take care of trees.At the dacha, a little less than fifty acres of trees and taking care of them without a chainsaw is hard. For the last few years I have been using only Calm and there are no problems with caring for my trees, everything has become quickly, clearly and easily. I can note the special power of the saw. Working with this chainsaw is only a pleasure and in winter frosts it starts immediately, which is also a big plus. I am happy with my choice and would recommend Calm MS211 to everyone!
Lightweight, durable, powerful enough.
Eats a lot of fuel, and at the same time a small gas tank.
I had 5 models of Stihl saws: 180,210,211,230,360. At the moment, I stopped at the 211st. I took 180 in order to indulge in it, and gain experience. 210th for household blanks of firewood, sawing boards and other things is an excellent option. The 230 already has more power, but sitting high on a tree is hard to hold it in one hand and cut branches – it’s hard for this. The 360 model is already for experienced professionals. There is an abundance of power in it, it works around the clock and, it seems that you can not turn it off at all, saw and saw without stopping.If only there were chains and oil to add with gasoline. When I went to the forest, I always took a couple of chains with me. But her hands get tired of her weight, so it’s better to cut her with breaks. Would 210 be on sale now, then I would have taken it. I had one, but out of stupidity a tree fell on it. She was the perfect saw for me. Its weight, price, quality and power were in excellent balance. I had to buy a new saw, the choice fell on 211 models. The engine is 2mix, the power is 210. The tire will be longer – 40 centimeters.Tightening the chain by 1 screw, but this does not affect keeping the chain taut. The plugs have become new, not a very convenient system of latches, I do not like it. But most of all I did not like that the tank became smaller. 210 had 450 milliliters, and here a little more than three hundred. Enough a little more than 210. But it would be better to leave the old one, so as not to steam with the refueling at all. The oil tank uses two tanks of fuel. And the engine now weighs on strong springs, and there is almost no vibration. Because of such little things, I put only 4.A year she saw about 3 carts of firewood, and the little things on the site are different. It has been in use for 3 years and there have been no problems with it during this time. BUT if I decide to take a new one, then it will be exactly 230, and now I’m happy with this one too!
A well-built, powerful, easy-to-use and easy-to-start saw. After the experience with Husqvarna, this was not a drink at all, but a fairy tale. Gasoline and oil tank caps are thought out to the smallest detail. There are metal spikes at the base of the tire, and not like the 180 of some unknown reason.The engine has a modern suspension system – the saw in the hands does not jump and does not give off strong vibration. Even if you put it on a flat surface, it does not jump
It is imperative to refuel only with original oil and gasoline, and they are much more expensive than analogues. But this is more likely not a disadvantage, but a necessity. After all, using a saw for such a price cannot be saved on consumables. The exhaust is located in front of the saw, above the tire and hits right in the face. After a long time working with her, you can watch cartoons.Therefore, I advise you to work in a respirator, or better in a gas mask, if the exhaust gases have a strong effect on you
I took it from the official partner of the firm Shtil, in the same place I took a five-liter can of oil for the mixture with fuel, and a small one for lubricating the chain. I thought whether it was worth taking the same model, but with an easy start function. But the consultants talked me out of spending extra money. For which I thank them. It’s just that even with a regular saw, there is no problem with starting. When buying, I changed the tire to a longer, fortieth one.Immediately I took another Picco Duro chain with victorious links, but I already bought it in the store at a cheaper price. It’s just something.
I want to share my impressions. The cutting speed is incredible, as if you are driving through the air, the chips are thin, the cut is like from a sharp sword. The spruce fell in the forest and blocked the road, so I chopped it down in a matter of minutes. I recommend!
Classification of cutting tools – Default site
Tools for metal cutting, combined into a cutting tool group, are divided into the following subgroups:
- drills, countersinks, countersinks and reamers;
- broaches and stitches;
- gear-cutting and rolling-in tools;
- threading tools;
- abrasive tools;
- hand tools.
cutters include a single-edged cutting tool, regardless of design, shape, size and purpose, with the exception of threading and gear-cutting tools.
Turning tools , depending on the side of attachment on the tool holder, are subdivided into right-hand and left-hand.
The right incisor is called the incisor, in which, when the palm of the right hand is placed on it from above, so that the fingers are directed to its apex, the main cutting edge will be under the thumb.On lathes, these cutters work when feeding from right to left, that is, to the headstock of the machine.
Left is a cutter, in which, when the left hand is applied to it in the above way, the main cutting edge will be under the thumb.
The next subgroup includes a multi-edge cutter tool, which has the shape of a body of revolution with teeth on cylindrical, and often on end surfaces. This tool is used for processing external and internal surfaces.The exception here is also the threading tool and gears.
Cutters and cutters are usually made using carbide inserts.
HARD ALLOY GRADES AND APPLICATIONS
Rough and rough turning and boring with interrupted cuts; rough turning during copy processing, parting with turning tools, semi-finishing planing and other types of processing of carbon and alloy steels in the form of forgings, stampings and castings for crust and scale.
Rough turning and boring of gray cast irons with uneven cut and interrupted cutting, countersinking and hole drilling, processing of non-ferrous metals and non-metallic materials, stainless and heat-resistant steels and alloys in adverse conditions and on non-rigid equipment.
Rough and semi-finishing turning of carbon, structural and alloy steels and steel castings with continuous cutting; finishing boring and turning when copying; finishing with interrupted cuts; countersinking and reaming with high cutting speeds and medium cut sections.
The subgroup of the multi-flute tool for holemaking combines drills, countersinks, countersinks, reamers.
Multi-edge tool , which cuts the chips during the main rectilinear working movement directed along the work surface, belongs to the subgroup of broaches and piercing.
The classification of the cutting tool, in addition to its division into the listed subgroups, provides for further division into types, varieties and types that give a complete design and operational characteristics of each tool.An essential place in this characteristic is occupied by the division of the tool into types, depending on the design. This division provides for three different designs, ranging from the simplest to the most complex, namely: a) the instrument is one-piece; b) a tool with soldered or welded teeth; c) the tool is prefabricated.
The complexity of tool manufacturing grows in accordance with the increase in the complexity of its design. Also, the complexity and time of the plumbing operations required for its manufacture are growing.
Most types of cutting tools can be made in all three versions: solid, welded or brazed and assembled. Let’s turn to the most common cutting tool to find out the design features, depending on its version.
By connection method
According to the method of connecting the cutting part of the cutter with its body, one distinguishes between solid, welded, welded, surface-mounted and brazed, with mechanical fastening of the plate and, finally, with the fastening of the plate by cutting force.Cutters with mechanical fastening of the plate and with fastening by its cutting force are typical representatives of a tool of a prefabricated structure. This design requires a precise fit of the insert seat to fit the insert to ensure proper fit of the insert to the support plane of the holder and to create a secure and stable insert position during cutting.
Likewise, cutters can be produced in three designs. Such a variety of designs is due to the desire to maximize the savings in materials used for the manufacture of cutting tools.This desire (led to the creation of cutters with inserted teeth, made of high-speed steel or from metal-ceramic carbide alloys. The bodies of such cutters are made of cheaper structural steel, and the teeth can be replaced with new ones as they wear out.
Symptoms of gastrointestinal diseases tract | Family clinic A-Media
Diseases of the gastrointestinal tract , the length of which in an adult reaches about seven meters, is quite common today.Troubles can lie in wait for us in all organs of the digestive system: in the esophagus, stomach, intestines. In order not to miss the moment of the onset of a serious illness and seek medical help in a timely manner, it is necessary to distinguish between symptoms which may indicate pathology of the gastrointestinal tract .
Pain is one of the main symptoms of diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, which is of paramount diagnostic value.During the examination, our doctor will analyze the localization and timing of the onset of pain sensations, as well as their intensity, duration and nature. In diseases of the stomach, pains are localized in this organ and can be dull, paroxysmal, cutting or aching. Pain in the stomach usually appears with the following diseases:
- gastritis – if the acute stage of the disease is characterized, as a rule, by acute, cutting pain, then in the chronic form the pain becomes dull;
- peritonitis – this pathological condition is characterized by sudden sharp pain that spreads to the entire abdomen and requires urgent medical attention;
- gastric ulcer;
- bacterial and viral infections;
- food poisoning.
The stomach in our body is very closely connected with the intestines, and therefore these two organs very rarely “get sick” alone. Pain in the intestines may indicate the following pathological conditions:
- intestinal colic – in this condition, you may experience cramping pains that occur when the muscles of the organ contract. Intestinal colic can occur with food poisoning, enterobiasis, colitis and some other pathologies;
- parasitic intestinal diseases;
- enteritis – inflammation of the small intestine;
- colitis – inflammation of the large intestine;
- intestinal dysbiosis, in which the normal ratio of beneficial and opportunistic microorganisms is disrupted;
- duodenitis – damage to the mucous membrane of the duodenum;
- acute intestinal obstruction and stagnation of feces.
If you experience abdominal pain, seek medical attention as soon as possible. In the absence of such an opportunity, you can take pain relievers, but if the pain is very intense, it is better to immediately call an ambulance.
When air comes out of the stomach into the oral cavity, belching occurs. It usually occurs if you absorb food too quickly, as a large volume of air enters the stomach. Belching with an unpleasant rotten smell is usually a sign of intestinal diseases.A similar phenomenon indicates stagnation of food masses in the stomach.
If you feel a sour taste when belching, most likely there are disorders of the digestive ability of the stomach , which is very often characteristic of gastritis and some other pathological conditions.
Bloating and increased gas production (flatulence) are also quite common in gastroenterological diseases. Often flatulence is caused by eating foods that contain fiber, which can cause gas.However, a similar symptom can appear in a number of serious pathologies:
- pancreatic insufficiency;
- intestinal dysbiosis;
- intestinal obstruction, etc.
Heartburn occurs when acidic stomach contents are thrown into the esophagus. Many people have experienced a burning sensation in the stomach at least once. A similar phenomenon says about a violation of acidity in the stomach . So, often heartburn manifests itself in gastritis with increased acidity of gastric juice.With a peptic ulcer, heartburn is usually combined with pain in the stomach, which occurs mainly at night.
Nausea and vomiting
Feeling of nausea can occur in many diseases of the gastrointestinal tract. Nausea is often preceded by vomiting , in which the contents of the stomach are involuntarily expelled due to irritation of the vomiting center in the medulla oblongata. Most often, this symptom occurs in the following pathological conditions:
As a rule, the composition of the vomit includes gastric juice and food debris.If the vomiting is very strong, then a certain amount of bile from the duodenum enters the stomach, due to which you may feel a bitter taste, and the vomit will acquire a greenish tint. If you have started p vota with blood , or vomit is similar to coffee grounds , , you should immediately consult a doctor. Be aware of the danger of excessive and prolonged vomiting, which can lead to dehydration, impaired heart and kidney function.
The main stool disorders include constipation and diarrhea, which are most often found in inflammatory diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, causing slow or accelerated intestinal motility.
Loose and frequent stools occurs with accelerated peristalsis and may indicate
- food poisoning,
- intestinal dysbiosis,
- disorders in the work of the pancreas,
- fistulas in the stomach and intestines.
The reverse state – constipation – occurs with reduced intestinal motility. Constipation is characteristic of such diseases of the digestive tract as
In some diseases of the digestive system, a specific, rather bad breath may be observed :
- with intestinal dysbiosis and intestinal obstruction, the mouth may smell like feces;
- The smell of acetone is typical for diseases of the pancreas;
- A sour smell is a sign of peptic ulcer, gastritis or esophageal diseases.
To determine if you have bad breath, simply bring your hand up to your face, covering both your mouth and nose. Breathe out through your mouth and sniff. As a rule, an unpleasant odor in pathologies of the gastrointestinal tract is quite pronounced, therefore it is not difficult to determine it.
Bad taste in the mouth
A specific taste in the mouth can also be a symptom of diseases of the digestive system:
- Bitterness in the mouth is usually present in diseases of the intestines and esophagus, in which the motility of these organs and the process of food passage through the gastrointestinal tract are impaired;
- A sour taste can be felt with gastritis and peptic ulcer disease with high acidity;
- With pancreatitis and malfunctioning of the pancreas, a sweet taste may occur in the mouth.
In diseases of the gastrointestinal tract , an unpleasant odor is always accompanied by other clinical signs. If, in addition to an unpleasant aftertaste, you have no other pathological symptoms, most likely we are talking about dental pathologies or diseases of ENT organs.
If you are worried about symptoms that clearly indicate diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, we recommend that you do not delay and contact our gastroenterologist for examination.Remember that a disease detected at an early stage responds to treatment much easier and faster.
Oh wound: dangerous fashion is gaining popularity among young people | Articles
Light cuts and burns are in vogue in Europe. Mainly among young people. Adolescents inflict injuries on themselves, completely voluntarily and on their own initiative. Doctors say that “the process is as addictive as drugs.” What is the reason for this phenomenon and what to do about it – in the material of Izvestia.
“The first time it was by accident – I felt itching at the site of the mosquito bite.Scratching was a natural reaction. I drove with my nails for a long time – the itch did not calm down. Increased pressure – blood appeared. I looked at her as if spellbound. There was a feeling that I had touched naked nerves and felt a thrill, “- Hema Rodriguez (surname changed at her request. – Ed. Note) talks about the experienced feelings, more often looking at his forearm than in the eyes of the interlocutor.
Her arm is stripped with transverse scars from hand to elbow. Smooth – traces of knife cuts. Curved – from the contact of other objects that can break through the skin.
“I remember the feeling, I wanted more. You know, it so happens that someone, in a fit of anger and a desire to hammer the physical pain in his heart, hits the wall with his fist. Or she bites her lip. Or he decides to slash his hand. No matter what: a knife, scissors, a nail, a piece of a plastic fountain pen, a zipper on a jacket … If only there was blood. It is soothing. Gradually you realize that you need it, you cannot do without it. It is addictive.Probably like a drug (I haven’t tried it – I don’t know). And cheap – no money at all. And it removes problems. ”
Hema claims to have treated everything from vomiting to depression with such bloodletting. And he shows the edge of his palm, along which the tattoo runs: “Each scar builds my throne.” What a throne – there is no answer.
According to a study published in the British scientific journal Journal of Child Psychology and Psychiatry, 27.6% of European adolescents 15-16 years of their own free will damage their bodies without suicidal intentions at least once in a lifetime.20% do it from time to time, and almost 8% do it on an ongoing basis.
Over the past 30 years, the number of such cases recorded annually has increased 10 times. Experts warn of a trend that is more than alarming, although the media try not to talk about it.
The phenomenon spreads like a pandemic and yet remains almost invisible to prying eyes, since most often they cut, beat and burn hands and in those places where they are usually hidden by the sleeves of a shirt.
A team of Spanish scientists led by psychologist Daniel Vega, studying this problem, claims that 32.7% of people in the age group of the country’s population from 18 to 32 years old are prone to self-torture in this way.
“There has been a paradigm shift in recent years. Self-injury that does not lead to suicide has historically been understood as a rare occurrence associated with some kind of serious mental disorder. Today we already know that this is not even a rarity at all.And it doesn’t only appear in people with mental disorders, ”explains Vega. – From the analysis of their behavior, we know that for the first time to hurt themselves for the sake of getting some unusual sensations – you can call them a high, here it’s probably not a more accurate term – they try at the age of 12 to 16 years. 63% of people who have done it once continue to repeat the manic experience for at least a year. Historically, it was believed that this was characteristic almost exclusively of women, but now young men are also addicted to the “self-tapping”, although to a slightly lesser extent. “
“This is an effective and quick way to reduce the discomfort caused by anger, sadness and anxiety, and in no clinic can we offer them something as powerful,” adds a colleague from the psychiatric department of Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau Juan Carlos Pascual. – Strictly speaking, this phenomenon cannot be called new. The craze for this must be recognized as new. Before, we still talked about isolated cases. “
As it turns out, girls are more likely to use methods that include monitoring blood. Typically by inflicting cuts or scrapes on yourself. Whereas boys prefer to deliberately hit something or burn their skin with fire.
Over the past 4–5 years, the problem has risen to its full extent, and it is fueled by works of popular culture – mainly film and television. This year, satellite and cable HBO premiered a television series based on Jillian Flynn’s book Sharp Objects (original version).
The main character, played by Hollywood star Amy Adams, received multiple injuries all over her body. The camera focuses the viewer’s attention on the scars. The characters tell about the origin of almost each of them separately.
Shot from the TV series “Sharp Objects”, starring Amy Adams
Photo: Blumhouse Productions
Prior to this, in 2014, the British pianist James Rhodes, who now lives in Spain, spoke in the book Instrumental with some special ecstasy about the sexual pleasure he experienced when using drugs, attempting suicide and “carving on the body” with a razor blade:
“Self-harm not only contributes to your self-affirmation – it allows you to express your disgust with the world around you.It teaches you how to control pain and allows you to enjoy the ritual, causing the body to produce more and more endorphins. This ghoulish, brutal abuse of oneself is like an unusual sexual adventure. You slashed your arm or leg – the effect came instantly, you feel an incredible surge of energy, elation. You were like an electric shock. Wherever there is a “coming” from heroin or cocaine – everything is much cooler here. ”
“In the language of psychiatrists, this is called emotional regulation,” says the aforementioned Pascual.- The action may seem impulsive; the desire to cut – arising suddenly. In fact, the person is planning it. In advance. Negative emotions accumulate in it – rage, sadness, anxiety, whatever. Relieving this tension with a sharpened blade is a way to reduce internal discomfort. Effectively and quickly. ”
In pursuit of pain
According to statistics cited by the Spanish edition of El Mundo, from 70 to 97% of people engaged in self-injury are prone to “carving on the body” – legs, arms, abdomen.From 21 to 44% – fight. From 15 to 35% – burned. And, despite this urge to self-harm, none of them even in their thoughts does not want to kill themselves with this. They would rather peel potatoes in the kitchen with a knife than open their veins. But the risk of suicide by such actions, objectively speaking, increases.
A textbook example is a girl observed in the psychiatry department of the São Pau Hospital, who introduced herself as Anna.
Anna made her debut in self-injury when she was only 14 years old.The reason was overweight and bulimia, the fight against which turned into anorexia and nervous breakdowns due to the ineffectiveness of the treatment of these diseases. Today she is 16, and she is still not removed from the register: a couple of weeks ago, she once again cut her hands.
When she was a fat woman, she was constantly teased at school. Good-natured at first. Gradually, this intensified, negative emotions began to prevail over positive ones – teasing turned into bullying. She undertook to lose weight on her own, after reading tips on the Internet.Among the most radical methods were recommendations for bloodletting and self-injury.
Photo: Global Look Press / Jürgen Wiesler
“At home they started hiding all objects that could cut myself: knives, forks and even pencil sharpeners, which I learned to disassemble better and more professionally than a watchmaker spins walkers,” Anna shares her “professional” skills. – Then I learned to create sharp objects from everything that came to hand.I could break off a piece from the cell phone frame. Or break the found glasses. Or “accidentally” drop the plate. If I walked past tables set out on the street by some restaurant, I could easily pretend that I urgently needed to tie my shoelaces. She would sit down near the table where there were wine glasses or glasses, and left with one of them. Sharp debris has always been with me. ”
Slow growing up
In the UK, self harm (self harm – an English term, as is often the case, has taken root in Russian, just changing the Latin spelling to Cyrillic) is one of the problems that psychiatrists trumpet at all corners.Over the past three years, according to the results of a study conducted by specialists from the University of Manchester, the number of cases of harm caused by teenagers (ages 11 to 19) to their own bodies has increased by 68%.
“Naturally, we are talking about cases that have been publicized,” notes May Balman, the Independent correspondent familiar with the topic. – But the trend is clear. As, however, and the reasons for its appearance and development. ”
In Germany, according to the newspaper Die Welt, 35% of adolescents have tried to hurt themselves with a cutting object at least once.Curious is the dynamics of the change in addiction to self-harm depending on age: among 11-16-year-olds 34% tried it, between the ages of 16 and 18 – 29%, from 18 to 20 – 17%, from 20 to 24 – 13%, older 24 – 7%.
The reasons, according to experts commenting on these indicators at the request of the publication, are the same as in other European countries: self-pity, internal disorder, a desire to attract attention and get away from their problems.There is also talk of teenagers getting pleasure from injuries, but Germans are still more inclined to believe that “the thrill of pain is more often flaunting in front of others and a desire to hide the true reasons listed earlier. As they grow older, “the wind in my head dies down,” young people get comfortable in life and grow smarter in the end. ”
According to the journalist The Independent (with whom psychologists and psychiatrists are mostly in solidarity), the social disorder resulting from infantilism is to blame for everything.
“Teenagers (girls – in particular, they are the majority of the“ self-tapping screws ”) want to shift the solution of their problems of lack of communication and unhappy love to those around them, to demand that they show concern, pity, indulgence and participation. They are not accustomed to looking for solutions on their own – they cannot do without the iron hand of their parents. We need a reorientation of a teenager – to playing sports (this is preferable), to reading books (although today, in the era of the Internet, this is unlikely – on the Internet they would rather run into films and literature, replete with bloody scenes, than real masterpieces of art) “, – I am convinced Balman.
And she’s probably right. Sport requires overcoming, stress and even self-sacrifice. “Let my muscles ache from exertion rather than skin from cuts,” some of the interviewed teenagers who “got off the knife” already admit to their psychologists that they have found a way to heal.
In Russia, the phenomenon of selfharma is also present. Although it is not as common as in the West (it is believed that 4% of the population have at least once tried to hurt themselves deliberately), but, as they say, here you just need to start.
Google statistics show that only in European countries over the past year, requests to search for pages where “self-torturers” communicate, were made 42 million times. An analysis of the content of these network “clubs of interest” shows that no preventive activities are carried out with those who apply there, everything is just the opposite, it works to expand contacts.
“It is strange that the demonstration of naked breasts in social networks is imposed by a bunch of prohibitions by the supporters of morality, and free access to the pages pushing the visitor to self-mutilation,” complains Spanish psychologist Daniel Vega, stressing that this situation has developed not only in the Iberian Peninsula but also all over the world.
Screwdriver with 2-piece Santoprene handle
Designed for processing carbon and alloy steels with ultimate strength up to 500 MPa
Designed for processing carbon and alloy steels with a tensile strength of up to 750 MPa
Intended for processing natural and artificial stone
Designed for machining hardened steels up to 55 HRC
Intended for machining titanium and titanium alloys
It is recommended to use coolant
Intended for processing corrosion-resistant steels
Designed for processing carbon and alloy steels with a tensile strength of up to 900 MPa
Intended for wood processing
Designed for machining hardened steels up to 60 HRC
Intended for processing aluminum and magnesium alloys
Intended for machining hard alloys
Designed for machining hardened steels with hardness up to 67 HRC
Dry cutting recommended
Designed for processing carbon and alloy steels with a tensile strength up to 1400 MPa
Intended for processing polymers
Intended for machining gray cast irons and ductile cast irons
Intended for the treatment of surfaces coated with varnishes and paints
Intended for machining brass and bronze
Intended for processing copper
Compressed air cooling recommended
Intended for machining brass
Intended for machining brass and copper-nickel alloys
Designed for processing honeycomb materials Honeycomb
Designed for machining metal matrix composite materials (MMC)
Intended for processing polymethyl methacrylate
Suitable for machining hardened steels up to 65 HRC
Intended for processing heat-resistant nickel alloys
Suitable for machining Toolox tool steels with a hardness of 33 HRC
Intended for processing polyetheretherketone with 30% glass fiber content
Designed for processing carbon and alloy steels with ultimate strength up to 500 MPa
Intended for processing tin bronze
Intended for processing low-alloyed copper alloys
Designed to machine Hardox 500 steels up to 1600 MPa
Designed for machining cast iron with a tensile strength of more than 800 MPa
Intended for processing beryllium bronze
Intended for processing CFRP
Allowed processing of non-ferrous metals, thermoplastics, long drain chips
Intended for processing glass and carbon fiber reinforced plastic
Allows processing of polyamide
Suitable for machining 44 HRC Toolox steels
Intended for processing copper-lead-zinc alloys
Intended for processing copper-nickel-zinc alloys
Intended for machining cast aluminum alloys
Intended for processing corrosion-resistant steels with a tensile strength of more than 900 MPa
Intended for processing polyvinylidene fluoride with 20% glass fiber content
Intended for processing polyetheretherketone with 30% carbon fiber
Treatment with fine spray coolant is recommended
Intended for processing low-alloyed copper-silicon alloys
Intended for processing fiberglass
Intended for machining tungsten-copper alloys
Intended for processing HDPE
Intended for processing cast bronze
Suitable for machining hardened steels up to 50 HRC
Designed for processing polyamide with 30% glass fiber content
Intended for processing graphite, glass and carbon fiber
Intended for processing titanium alloys with a tensile strength of more than 850 MPa
Designed for processing carbon and alloy steels with a tensile strength of up to 750 MPa
Intended for processing graphite
Intended for processing tin bronze
Intended for machining aluminum alloys giving short chips
Intended for processing corrosion-resistant steels with a tensile strength up to 900 MAa
Intended for processing high-strength bronzes
Intended for processing lead bronzes
Designed for machining ductile cast irons
Designed for processing carbon and alloy steels with ultimate strength up to 1100 MPa
Intended for processing polyetheretherketone
Designed for processing composite materials
Intended for processing aramid
Intended for processing aluminum-copper alloys
Intended for processing polymethylene oxide with 25% glass fiber content
Intended for processing phenol-formaldehyde resin
Designed for machining hardened steels up to 70 HRC
Intended for processing aluminum-nickel bronzes
Intended for processing gray cast irons
Intended for processing copper and copper alloys
It is recommended to use oils or emulsion
Intended for machining aluminum alloys giving long (drainage) chips
Designed for processing polytetrafluoroethylene with 25% carbon fiber
Recommended for continuous cutting conditions
Recommended for use in shock conditions
Recommended for unstable cutting conditions
90,000 Fossil crocodile with teeth like a cat
Tens of millions of years ago, such crocodile-like reptiles hunted insects
Paleontologists working in Tanzania discovered fossil remains of a crocodile with teeth of a cat-like creature the size of resemble the teeth of mammals.
This creature, called Pakasuchus kapilimai, lived in the Cretaceous period, from 144 to 65 million years ago in subequatorial Africa.
This find indicates, according to scientists, the fact that the squad of crocodiles was much more diverse in those days than now.
The results of this study are published in the journal Nature.
Paka means a cat in Swahili. This word was chosen for the name of this reptile due to its short, low skull with molars.
X-ray tomography has helped to obtain a three-dimensional image of the unusual jaw of this ancient crocodile.
Patrick O’Connor, professor of anatomy at the University College of Osteopathy in Ohio, led the research team.
He confirmed that this reptile was much smaller in size than modern crocodiles. According to him, his head could fit in a human palm.
He looked different than modern crocodiles – a detachment that includes three families: alligators, crocodiles themselves and gharials.
“At first glance, this crocodile struggled to be a mammal,” said Professor O’Connor.
“Looking at its teeth, it is hard to believe that it is a crocodile. Rather, it comes to mind that it is some kind of strange mammal or reptile, very similar to a mammal,” continues the professor.
Digital images of this creature’s skull have confirmed that it possessed teeth that were still thought to be characteristic of mammals.Its teeth had cutting edges with which this reptile chewed food.
According to the co-author of the article Nancy Stevens, also an employee of Ohio State University, this fossil reptile occupied a very special food niche compared to modern crocodiles.
Volumetric images of the skull of this creature revealed a very unusual structure of its teeth.
This tiny crocodile was able to bite and swallow food like mammals.
Crocodiles have simple tapered teeth, with which they hold and tear the meat of the victim.